Hello,

I have a '79 CJ5 258, used to have a T150 and a dana20, swapped those
for a T18 out of a ford and a Dana300.

The problem I have is that it seems that even when the clutch
disengages, the inputshaft still seems to be turned just slightly. I
know because when I try to shift (especially to first and reverse (cause
those are not synchronized), it shifts real rough even grinds (even when
the car is not moving).

So I am looking for any pointer why it could be doing that.

The ones I came up with
[1] The tranny inputshaft is "riding up" against the crank and that
makes the inputshaft turn.
[2] The clutch doesn't really disengage and drags on the flywheel or
something
[3] ???

what I did is use a few washer to temporarily back the tranny off from
the bellhousing. That way I know that the inputshaft isn't touching the
crank. but that didn't seem to make the problem go away.

Also the problem seems to get worse when I drive the Jeep for a bit ,
few miles or so) shifting seems to be really rough then.

Any tips in figuring out what exactly could be the problem ?

thanks,

Ron

 

The washer to space out the tranny / bellhousing was a good idea. I think
that would be a great test and you can eliminate the idea #1. Can you try
to over-adjust your clutch pedal so that you are sure you are moving the
clutch plate fully off the flywheel. Maybe do that in conjunction with
having the rear axle on jackstands so you can see if the rear wheels try to
spin even without road resistance.
Have you replaced or checked all of your clutch linkage pieces to verify
that all of your pedal travel is getting to the clutch and not just bending
of flexing linkage pieces? All just ideas, I don't have a real answer for
you.


"Ron Croonenberg" <ronc@depauw.edu> wrote in message
news:bv6k0e$7pm$1@terra.csc.depauw.edu...
> Hello,
>
> I have a '79 CJ5 258, used to have a T150 and a dana20, swapped those
> for a T18 out of a ford and a Dana300.
>
> The problem I have is that it seems that even when the clutch
> disengages, the inputshaft still seems to be turned just slightly. I
> know because when I try to shift (especially to first and reverse (cause
> those are not synchronized), it shifts real rough even grinds (even when
> the car is not moving).
>
> So I am looking for any pointer why it could be doing that.
>
> The ones I came up with
> [1] The tranny inputshaft is "riding up" against the crank and that
> makes the inputshaft turn.
> [2] The clutch doesn't really disengage and drags on the flywheel or
> something
> [3] ???
>
> what I did is use a few washer to temporarily back the tranny off from
> the bellhousing. That way I know that the inputshaft isn't touching the
> crank. but that didn't seem to make the problem go away.
>
> Also the problem seems to get worse when I drive the Jeep for a bit ,
> few miles or so) shifting seems to be really rough then.
>
> Any tips in figuring out what exactly could be the problem ?
>
> thanks,
>
> Ron
>

 

The washer to space out the tranny / bellhousing was a good idea. I think
that would be a great test and you can eliminate the idea #1. Can you try
to over-adjust your clutch pedal so that you are sure you are moving the
clutch plate fully off the flywheel. Maybe do that in conjunction with
having the rear axle on jackstands so you can see if the rear wheels try to
spin even without road resistance.
Have you replaced or checked all of your clutch linkage pieces to verify
that all of your pedal travel is getting to the clutch and not just bending
of flexing linkage pieces? All just ideas, I don't have a real answer for
you.


"Ron Croonenberg" <ronc@depauw.edu> wrote in message
news:bv6k0e$7pm$1@terra.csc.depauw.edu...
> Hello,
>
> I have a '79 CJ5 258, used to have a T150 and a dana20, swapped those
> for a T18 out of a ford and a Dana300.
>
> The problem I have is that it seems that even when the clutch
> disengages, the inputshaft still seems to be turned just slightly. I
> know because when I try to shift (especially to first and reverse (cause
> those are not synchronized), it shifts real rough even grinds (even when
> the car is not moving).
>
> So I am looking for any pointer why it could be doing that.
>
> The ones I came up with
> [1] The tranny inputshaft is "riding up" against the crank and that
> makes the inputshaft turn.
> [2] The clutch doesn't really disengage and drags on the flywheel or
> something
> [3] ???
>
> what I did is use a few washer to temporarily back the tranny off from
> the bellhousing. That way I know that the inputshaft isn't touching the
> crank. but that didn't seem to make the problem go away.
>
> Also the problem seems to get worse when I drive the Jeep for a bit ,
> few miles or so) shifting seems to be really rough then.
>
> Any tips in figuring out what exactly could be the problem ?
>
> thanks,
>
> Ron
>

 

The washer to space out the tranny / bellhousing was a good idea. I think
that would be a great test and you can eliminate the idea #1. Can you try
to over-adjust your clutch pedal so that you are sure you are moving the
clutch plate fully off the flywheel. Maybe do that in conjunction with
having the rear axle on jackstands so you can see if the rear wheels try to
spin even without road resistance.
Have you replaced or checked all of your clutch linkage pieces to verify
that all of your pedal travel is getting to the clutch and not just bending
of flexing linkage pieces? All just ideas, I don't have a real answer for
you.


"Ron Croonenberg" <ronc@depauw.edu> wrote in message
news:bv6k0e$7pm$1@terra.csc.depauw.edu...
> Hello,
>
> I have a '79 CJ5 258, used to have a T150 and a dana20, swapped those
> for a T18 out of a ford and a Dana300.
>
> The problem I have is that it seems that even when the clutch
> disengages, the inputshaft still seems to be turned just slightly. I
> know because when I try to shift (especially to first and reverse (cause
> those are not synchronized), it shifts real rough even grinds (even when
> the car is not moving).
>
> So I am looking for any pointer why it could be doing that.
>
> The ones I came up with
> [1] The tranny inputshaft is "riding up" against the crank and that
> makes the inputshaft turn.
> [2] The clutch doesn't really disengage and drags on the flywheel or
> something
> [3] ???
>
> what I did is use a few washer to temporarily back the tranny off from
> the bellhousing. That way I know that the inputshaft isn't touching the
> crank. but that didn't seem to make the problem go away.
>
> Also the problem seems to get worse when I drive the Jeep for a bit ,
> few miles or so) shifting seems to be really rough then.
>
> Any tips in figuring out what exactly could be the problem ?
>
> thanks,
>
> Ron
>

 

actually what I did too was take the linkage off and have the arm where
the adjustable part attaches too extended. that way the arm/clutch
linkage has more "throw" (and it is way harder to disengage the cluth
that way btw. Also because that throw/travel of the clutchfork is longer
I tried to play with it a bit, so that I can "see/feel" when I push the
clutchpedal if it is adjustable.

What I am looking for now is other possible causes. Even though the
clutch (disk and pressure plate) are new. Maybe the pressure plate
doesn't release the pressure all the way ? Could it be that the disk I
have is too thick and it drags inbetween the pressure plate and flywheel
? On thing that is typical is that when I drive it for a bit the problem
seem to get worse. when I let it sit for 15-30 mins then it seems to be
a bit better again. So it almost seems that something heats up (the
pressure plate ?) extends and the clutch disk drags even more ?

or is it a tranny problem ? of course the tranny heats up too when I
drive the CJ. (although I can imagine that when that was the case,
something would have worn out or broken)


any other ideas are welcome.


Ron


fletcher wrote:
> The washer to space out the tranny / bellhousing was a good idea. I think
> that would be a great test and you can eliminate the idea #1. Can you try
> to over-adjust your clutch pedal so that you are sure you are moving the
> clutch plate fully off the flywheel. Maybe do that in conjunction with
> having the rear axle on jackstands so you can see if the rear wheels try to
> spin even without road resistance.
> Have you replaced or checked all of your clutch linkage pieces to verify
> that all of your pedal travel is getting to the clutch and not just bending
> of flexing linkage pieces? All just ideas, I don't have a real answer for
> you.
>
>
> "Ron Croonenberg" <ronc@depauw.edu> wrote in message
> news:bv6k0e$7pm$1@terra.csc.depauw.edu...
>
>>Hello,
>>
>>I have a '79 CJ5 258, used to have a T150 and a dana20, swapped those
>>for a T18 out of a ford and a Dana300.
>>
>>The problem I have is that it seems that even when the clutch
>>disengages, the inputshaft still seems to be turned just slightly. I
>>know because when I try to shift (especially to first and reverse (cause
>>those are not synchronized), it shifts real rough even grinds (even when
>>the car is not moving).
>>
>>So I am looking for any pointer why it could be doing that.
>>
>>The ones I came up with
>>[1] The tranny inputshaft is "riding up" against the crank and that
>> makes the inputshaft turn.
>>[2] The clutch doesn't really disengage and drags on the flywheel or
>> something
>>[3] ???
>>
>>what I did is use a few washer to temporarily back the tranny off from
>>the bellhousing. That way I know that the inputshaft isn't touching the
>>crank. but that didn't seem to make the problem go away.
>>
>>Also the problem seems to get worse when I drive the Jeep for a bit ,
>>few miles or so) shifting seems to be really rough then.
>>
>>Any tips in figuring out what exactly could be the problem ?
>>
>>thanks,
>>
>>Ron
>>
>
>
>
>

 

actually what I did too was take the linkage off and have the arm where
the adjustable part attaches too extended. that way the arm/clutch
linkage has more "throw" (and it is way harder to disengage the cluth
that way btw. Also because that throw/travel of the clutchfork is longer
I tried to play with it a bit, so that I can "see/feel" when I push the
clutchpedal if it is adjustable.

What I am looking for now is other possible causes. Even though the
clutch (disk and pressure plate) are new. Maybe the pressure plate
doesn't release the pressure all the way ? Could it be that the disk I
have is too thick and it drags inbetween the pressure plate and flywheel
? On thing that is typical is that when I drive it for a bit the problem
seem to get worse. when I let it sit for 15-30 mins then it seems to be
a bit better again. So it almost seems that something heats up (the
pressure plate ?) extends and the clutch disk drags even more ?

or is it a tranny problem ? of course the tranny heats up too when I
drive the CJ. (although I can imagine that when that was the case,
something would have worn out or broken)


any other ideas are welcome.


Ron


fletcher wrote:
> The washer to space out the tranny / bellhousing was a good idea. I think
> that would be a great test and you can eliminate the idea #1. Can you try
> to over-adjust your clutch pedal so that you are sure you are moving the
> clutch plate fully off the flywheel. Maybe do that in conjunction with
> having the rear axle on jackstands so you can see if the rear wheels try to
> spin even without road resistance.
> Have you replaced or checked all of your clutch linkage pieces to verify
> that all of your pedal travel is getting to the clutch and not just bending
> of flexing linkage pieces? All just ideas, I don't have a real answer for
> you.
>
>
> "Ron Croonenberg" <ronc@depauw.edu> wrote in message
> news:bv6k0e$7pm$1@terra.csc.depauw.edu...
>
>>Hello,
>>
>>I have a '79 CJ5 258, used to have a T150 and a dana20, swapped those
>>for a T18 out of a ford and a Dana300.
>>
>>The problem I have is that it seems that even when the clutch
>>disengages, the inputshaft still seems to be turned just slightly. I
>>know because when I try to shift (especially to first and reverse (cause
>>those are not synchronized), it shifts real rough even grinds (even when
>>the car is not moving).
>>
>>So I am looking for any pointer why it could be doing that.
>>
>>The ones I came up with
>>[1] The tranny inputshaft is "riding up" against the crank and that
>> makes the inputshaft turn.
>>[2] The clutch doesn't really disengage and drags on the flywheel or
>> something
>>[3] ???
>>
>>what I did is use a few washer to temporarily back the tranny off from
>>the bellhousing. That way I know that the inputshaft isn't touching the
>>crank. but that didn't seem to make the problem go away.
>>
>>Also the problem seems to get worse when I drive the Jeep for a bit ,
>>few miles or so) shifting seems to be really rough then.
>>
>>Any tips in figuring out what exactly could be the problem ?
>>
>>thanks,
>>
>>Ron
>>
>
>
>
>

 

actually what I did too was take the linkage off and have the arm where
the adjustable part attaches too extended. that way the arm/clutch
linkage has more "throw" (and it is way harder to disengage the cluth
that way btw. Also because that throw/travel of the clutchfork is longer
I tried to play with it a bit, so that I can "see/feel" when I push the
clutchpedal if it is adjustable.

What I am looking for now is other possible causes. Even though the
clutch (disk and pressure plate) are new. Maybe the pressure plate
doesn't release the pressure all the way ? Could it be that the disk I
have is too thick and it drags inbetween the pressure plate and flywheel
? On thing that is typical is that when I drive it for a bit the problem
seem to get worse. when I let it sit for 15-30 mins then it seems to be
a bit better again. So it almost seems that something heats up (the
pressure plate ?) extends and the clutch disk drags even more ?

or is it a tranny problem ? of course the tranny heats up too when I
drive the CJ. (although I can imagine that when that was the case,
something would have worn out or broken)


any other ideas are welcome.


Ron


fletcher wrote:
> The washer to space out the tranny / bellhousing was a good idea. I think
> that would be a great test and you can eliminate the idea #1. Can you try
> to over-adjust your clutch pedal so that you are sure you are moving the
> clutch plate fully off the flywheel. Maybe do that in conjunction with
> having the rear axle on jackstands so you can see if the rear wheels try to
> spin even without road resistance.
> Have you replaced or checked all of your clutch linkage pieces to verify
> that all of your pedal travel is getting to the clutch and not just bending
> of flexing linkage pieces? All just ideas, I don't have a real answer for
> you.
>
>
> "Ron Croonenberg" <ronc@depauw.edu> wrote in message
> news:bv6k0e$7pm$1@terra.csc.depauw.edu...
>
>>Hello,
>>
>>I have a '79 CJ5 258, used to have a T150 and a dana20, swapped those
>>for a T18 out of a ford and a Dana300.
>>
>>The problem I have is that it seems that even when the clutch
>>disengages, the inputshaft still seems to be turned just slightly. I
>>know because when I try to shift (especially to first and reverse (cause
>>those are not synchronized), it shifts real rough even grinds (even when
>>the car is not moving).
>>
>>So I am looking for any pointer why it could be doing that.
>>
>>The ones I came up with
>>[1] The tranny inputshaft is "riding up" against the crank and that
>> makes the inputshaft turn.
>>[2] The clutch doesn't really disengage and drags on the flywheel or
>> something
>>[3] ???
>>
>>what I did is use a few washer to temporarily back the tranny off from
>>the bellhousing. That way I know that the inputshaft isn't touching the
>>crank. but that didn't seem to make the problem go away.
>>
>>Also the problem seems to get worse when I drive the Jeep for a bit ,
>>few miles or so) shifting seems to be really rough then.
>>
>>Any tips in figuring out what exactly could be the problem ?
>>
>>thanks,
>>
>>Ron
>>
>
>
>
>

 

Ron:

My Ford T-18 conversion does the same, though not bad enough to grind
the gears. Disengaging the clutch, even in neutral, will still spin
the wheels while up on jackstands. With the wheels on the ground, it
doesn't seem to drag, try to move the Jeep, or load the engine. Best I
can guess is that the input shaft gets enough torque from the pilot
bushing to spin a bit (explains the spin even with clutch depressed),
and must ride on one of the internal gears enough to transfer some
torque. I've put about 1000 miles on it this way, and no problems yet.
I've decided "that's the way it is", and not worried about it.

Any T-18 guru's out there know more?

Ryan
ryansweany@earthlink.net
(O|||||||O)

Ron Croonenberg <ronc@depauw.edu> wrote in message news:<bv8f74$k3f$1@terra.csc.depauw.edu>...
> actually what I did too was take the linkage off and have the arm where
> the adjustable part attaches too extended. that way the arm/clutch
> linkage has more "throw" (and it is way harder to disengage the cluth
> that way btw. Also because that throw/travel of the clutchfork is longer
> I tried to play with it a bit, so that I can "see/feel" when I push the
> clutchpedal if it is adjustable.
>
> What I am looking for now is other possible causes. Even though the
> clutch (disk and pressure plate) are new. Maybe the pressure plate
> doesn't release the pressure all the way ? Could it be that the disk I
> have is too thick and it drags inbetween the pressure plate and flywheel
> ? On thing that is typical is that when I drive it for a bit the problem
> seem to get worse. when I let it sit for 15-30 mins then it seems to be
> a bit better again. So it almost seems that something heats up (the
> pressure plate ?) extends and the clutch disk drags even more ?
>
> or is it a tranny problem ? of course the tranny heats up too when I
> drive the CJ. (although I can imagine that when that was the case,
> something would have worn out or broken)
>
>
> any other ideas are welcome.
>
>
> Ron
>
>
> fletcher wrote:
> > The washer to space out the tranny / bellhousing was a good idea. I think
> > that would be a great test and you can eliminate the idea #1. Can you try
> > to over-adjust your clutch pedal so that you are sure you are moving the
> > clutch plate fully off the flywheel. Maybe do that in conjunction with
> > having the rear axle on jackstands so you can see if the rear wheels try to
> > spin even without road resistance.
> > Have you replaced or checked all of your clutch linkage pieces to verify
> > that all of your pedal travel is getting to the clutch and not just bending
> > of flexing linkage pieces? All just ideas, I don't have a real answer for
> > you.
> >
> >
> > "Ron Croonenberg" <ronc@depauw.edu> wrote in message
> > news:bv6k0e$7pm$1@terra.csc.depauw.edu...
> >
> >>Hello,
> >>
> >>I have a '79 CJ5 258, used to have a T150 and a dana20, swapped those
> >>for a T18 out of a ford and a Dana300.
> >>
> >>The problem I have is that it seems that even when the clutch
> >>disengages, the inputshaft still seems to be turned just slightly. I
> >>know because when I try to shift (especially to first and reverse (cause
> >>those are not synchronized), it shifts real rough even grinds (even when
> >>the car is not moving).
> >>
> >>So I am looking for any pointer why it could be doing that.
> >>
> >>The ones I came up with
> >>[1] The tranny inputshaft is "riding up" against the crank and that
> >> makes the inputshaft turn.
> >>[2] The clutch doesn't really disengage and drags on the flywheel or
> >> something
> >>[3] ???
> >>
> >>what I did is use a few washer to temporarily back the tranny off from
> >>the bellhousing. That way I know that the inputshaft isn't touching the
> >>crank. but that didn't seem to make the problem go away.
> >>
> >>Also the problem seems to get worse when I drive the Jeep for a bit ,
> >>few miles or so) shifting seems to be really rough then.
> >>
> >>Any tips in figuring out what exactly could be the problem ?
> >>
> >>thanks,
> >>
> >>Ron
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >

 

Ron:

My Ford T-18 conversion does the same, though not bad enough to grind
the gears. Disengaging the clutch, even in neutral, will still spin
the wheels while up on jackstands. With the wheels on the ground, it
doesn't seem to drag, try to move the Jeep, or load the engine. Best I
can guess is that the input shaft gets enough torque from the pilot
bushing to spin a bit (explains the spin even with clutch depressed),
and must ride on one of the internal gears enough to transfer some
torque. I've put about 1000 miles on it this way, and no problems yet.
I've decided "that's the way it is", and not worried about it.

Any T-18 guru's out there know more?

Ryan
ryansweany@earthlink.net
(O|||||||O)

Ron Croonenberg <ronc@depauw.edu> wrote in message news:<bv8f74$k3f$1@terra.csc.depauw.edu>...
> actually what I did too was take the linkage off and have the arm where
> the adjustable part attaches too extended. that way the arm/clutch
> linkage has more "throw" (and it is way harder to disengage the cluth
> that way btw. Also because that throw/travel of the clutchfork is longer
> I tried to play with it a bit, so that I can "see/feel" when I push the
> clutchpedal if it is adjustable.
>
> What I am looking for now is other possible causes. Even though the
> clutch (disk and pressure plate) are new. Maybe the pressure plate
> doesn't release the pressure all the way ? Could it be that the disk I
> have is too thick and it drags inbetween the pressure plate and flywheel
> ? On thing that is typical is that when I drive it for a bit the problem
> seem to get worse. when I let it sit for 15-30 mins then it seems to be
> a bit better again. So it almost seems that something heats up (the
> pressure plate ?) extends and the clutch disk drags even more ?
>
> or is it a tranny problem ? of course the tranny heats up too when I
> drive the CJ. (although I can imagine that when that was the case,
> something would have worn out or broken)
>
>
> any other ideas are welcome.
>
>
> Ron
>
>
> fletcher wrote:
> > The washer to space out the tranny / bellhousing was a good idea. I think
> > that would be a great test and you can eliminate the idea #1. Can you try
> > to over-adjust your clutch pedal so that you are sure you are moving the
> > clutch plate fully off the flywheel. Maybe do that in conjunction with
> > having the rear axle on jackstands so you can see if the rear wheels try to
> > spin even without road resistance.
> > Have you replaced or checked all of your clutch linkage pieces to verify
> > that all of your pedal travel is getting to the clutch and not just bending
> > of flexing linkage pieces? All just ideas, I don't have a real answer for
> > you.
> >
> >
> > "Ron Croonenberg" <ronc@depauw.edu> wrote in message
> > news:bv6k0e$7pm$1@terra.csc.depauw.edu...
> >
> >>Hello,
> >>
> >>I have a '79 CJ5 258, used to have a T150 and a dana20, swapped those
> >>for a T18 out of a ford and a Dana300.
> >>
> >>The problem I have is that it seems that even when the clutch
> >>disengages, the inputshaft still seems to be turned just slightly. I
> >>know because when I try to shift (especially to first and reverse (cause
> >>those are not synchronized), it shifts real rough even grinds (even when
> >>the car is not moving).
> >>
> >>So I am looking for any pointer why it could be doing that.
> >>
> >>The ones I came up with
> >>[1] The tranny inputshaft is "riding up" against the crank and that
> >> makes the inputshaft turn.
> >>[2] The clutch doesn't really disengage and drags on the flywheel or
> >> something
> >>[3] ???
> >>
> >>what I did is use a few washer to temporarily back the tranny off from
> >>the bellhousing. That way I know that the inputshaft isn't touching the
> >>crank. but that didn't seem to make the problem go away.
> >>
> >>Also the problem seems to get worse when I drive the Jeep for a bit ,
> >>few miles or so) shifting seems to be really rough then.
> >>
> >>Any tips in figuring out what exactly could be the problem ?
> >>
> >>thanks,
> >>
> >>Ron
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >

 

Ron:

My Ford T-18 conversion does the same, though not bad enough to grind
the gears. Disengaging the clutch, even in neutral, will still spin
the wheels while up on jackstands. With the wheels on the ground, it
doesn't seem to drag, try to move the Jeep, or load the engine. Best I
can guess is that the input shaft gets enough torque from the pilot
bushing to spin a bit (explains the spin even with clutch depressed),
and must ride on one of the internal gears enough to transfer some
torque. I've put about 1000 miles on it this way, and no problems yet.
I've decided "that's the way it is", and not worried about it.

Any T-18 guru's out there know more?

Ryan
ryansweany@earthlink.net
(O|||||||O)

Ron Croonenberg <ronc@depauw.edu> wrote in message news:<bv8f74$k3f$1@terra.csc.depauw.edu>...
> actually what I did too was take the linkage off and have the arm where
> the adjustable part attaches too extended. that way the arm/clutch
> linkage has more "throw" (and it is way harder to disengage the cluth
> that way btw. Also because that throw/travel of the clutchfork is longer
> I tried to play with it a bit, so that I can "see/feel" when I push the
> clutchpedal if it is adjustable.
>
> What I am looking for now is other possible causes. Even though the
> clutch (disk and pressure plate) are new. Maybe the pressure plate
> doesn't release the pressure all the way ? Could it be that the disk I
> have is too thick and it drags inbetween the pressure plate and flywheel
> ? On thing that is typical is that when I drive it for a bit the problem
> seem to get worse. when I let it sit for 15-30 mins then it seems to be
> a bit better again. So it almost seems that something heats up (the
> pressure plate ?) extends and the clutch disk drags even more ?
>
> or is it a tranny problem ? of course the tranny heats up too when I
> drive the CJ. (although I can imagine that when that was the case,
> something would have worn out or broken)
>
>
> any other ideas are welcome.
>
>
> Ron
>
>
> fletcher wrote:
> > The washer to space out the tranny / bellhousing was a good idea. I think
> > that would be a great test and you can eliminate the idea #1. Can you try
> > to over-adjust your clutch pedal so that you are sure you are moving the
> > clutch plate fully off the flywheel. Maybe do that in conjunction with
> > having the rear axle on jackstands so you can see if the rear wheels try to
> > spin even without road resistance.
> > Have you replaced or checked all of your clutch linkage pieces to verify
> > that all of your pedal travel is getting to the clutch and not just bending
> > of flexing linkage pieces? All just ideas, I don't have a real answer for
> > you.
> >
> >
> > "Ron Croonenberg" <ronc@depauw.edu> wrote in message
> > news:bv6k0e$7pm$1@terra.csc.depauw.edu...
> >
> >>Hello,
> >>
> >>I have a '79 CJ5 258, used to have a T150 and a dana20, swapped those
> >>for a T18 out of a ford and a Dana300.
> >>
> >>The problem I have is that it seems that even when the clutch
> >>disengages, the inputshaft still seems to be turned just slightly. I
> >>know because when I try to shift (especially to first and reverse (cause
> >>those are not synchronized), it shifts real rough even grinds (even when
> >>the car is not moving).
> >>
> >>So I am looking for any pointer why it could be doing that.
> >>
> >>The ones I came up with
> >>[1] The tranny inputshaft is "riding up" against the crank and that
> >> makes the inputshaft turn.
> >>[2] The clutch doesn't really disengage and drags on the flywheel or
> >> something
> >>[3] ???
> >>
> >>what I did is use a few washer to temporarily back the tranny off from
> >>the bellhousing. That way I know that the inputshaft isn't touching the
> >>crank. but that didn't seem to make the problem go away.
> >>
> >>Also the problem seems to get worse when I drive the Jeep for a bit ,
> >>few miles or so) shifting seems to be really rough then.
> >>
> >>Any tips in figuring out what exactly could be the problem ?
> >>
> >>thanks,
> >>
> >>Ron
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >