Clunk when shifting from park to reverse (after sitting overnight)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clunk when shifting from park to reverse (after sitting overnight)
Robert Giles wrote:
> Any ideas out there as to the cause?
Have you ever serviced the transmission? Has anyone else serviced it?
When?
Definitely check the U-joints first, as others suggested. Other misc.
transmission problems often come back to an incorrect fluid level, fluid
contamination causing internal valve spools to stick causing line
pressure problems, foaming of the fluid (usu. due to an internal leak or
cracked case) or the wrong type of fluid in the transmission to begin
with, most often put there by Jiffy Lube outfits.
> Any ideas out there as to the cause?
Have you ever serviced the transmission? Has anyone else serviced it?
When?
Definitely check the U-joints first, as others suggested. Other misc.
transmission problems often come back to an incorrect fluid level, fluid
contamination causing internal valve spools to stick causing line
pressure problems, foaming of the fluid (usu. due to an internal leak or
cracked case) or the wrong type of fluid in the transmission to begin
with, most often put there by Jiffy Lube outfits.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clunk when shifting from park to reverse (after sitting overnight)
Robert Giles wrote:
> Any ideas out there as to the cause?
Have you ever serviced the transmission? Has anyone else serviced it?
When?
Definitely check the U-joints first, as others suggested. Other misc.
transmission problems often come back to an incorrect fluid level, fluid
contamination causing internal valve spools to stick causing line
pressure problems, foaming of the fluid (usu. due to an internal leak or
cracked case) or the wrong type of fluid in the transmission to begin
with, most often put there by Jiffy Lube outfits.
> Any ideas out there as to the cause?
Have you ever serviced the transmission? Has anyone else serviced it?
When?
Definitely check the U-joints first, as others suggested. Other misc.
transmission problems often come back to an incorrect fluid level, fluid
contamination causing internal valve spools to stick causing line
pressure problems, foaming of the fluid (usu. due to an internal leak or
cracked case) or the wrong type of fluid in the transmission to begin
with, most often put there by Jiffy Lube outfits.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clunk when shifting from park to reverse (after sitting overnight)
Robert Giles wrote:
> Any ideas out there as to the cause?
Have you ever serviced the transmission? Has anyone else serviced it?
When?
Definitely check the U-joints first, as others suggested. Other misc.
transmission problems often come back to an incorrect fluid level, fluid
contamination causing internal valve spools to stick causing line
pressure problems, foaming of the fluid (usu. due to an internal leak or
cracked case) or the wrong type of fluid in the transmission to begin
with, most often put there by Jiffy Lube outfits.
> Any ideas out there as to the cause?
Have you ever serviced the transmission? Has anyone else serviced it?
When?
Definitely check the U-joints first, as others suggested. Other misc.
transmission problems often come back to an incorrect fluid level, fluid
contamination causing internal valve spools to stick causing line
pressure problems, foaming of the fluid (usu. due to an internal leak or
cracked case) or the wrong type of fluid in the transmission to begin
with, most often put there by Jiffy Lube outfits.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clunk when shifting from park to reverse (after sitting overnight)
Many years ago I had a Studebaker Hawk that made a noise just like that.
I didn't think about it too much until one day I was driving along,
gave it some gas to climb a hill, and suddenly it was like someone was
beating on the bottom of the car with a sledge hammer.
Pulled over to the side of the road and everything seemed fine, engine
was idling quietly, gages all normal. Shut it off and walked around the
back of the car where I noticed the yoke from the back of the
transmission laying in the sand behind the car, and then the drive shaft
a few yards back.
I put the drive shaft in the trunk and started walking (about 20 miles
from home, in the middle of Fort Bragg back when it was a shortcut from
Fayetteville to Southern Pines NC). I'd never hitchhiked before (or
sense) but the first car to come along I stuck out my thumb, they picked
me up and dropped me off in front of my house!
Moral of the story, watch your U Joints!
Jeff DeWitt
Mike Romain wrote:
> You are describing the noise and feel of a blown u-joint.
>
> If you block the wheels and put it in neutral to unload the drivetrain,
> you can go under and check the driveshaft u-joints. You twist and push
> at them as well as do a visual looking for rust stains around the caps.
> One arm on one will likely be just flopping around.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Robert Giles wrote:
>
>>Howdy folks - I have a 2000 WJ, 2WD, 4.0L, 42RE transmission, just shy
>>of 70,000 miles...
>>
>>Seemed to notice this after the weather began to cool down... when
>>starting the vehicle after it has been sitting for more than 8 hours,
>>and shifting from park to reverse, there's a brief, one second delay,
>>then a loud clunk / thump, before it feels like it's in gear and
>>starts actually moving in reverse.
>>
>>If I shift into drive first from park, then reverse, the loud clunk is
>>much less pronounced, but still there.
>>
>>If I drive the vehicle within a certain window of time (ie: leaving
>>work in the afternoon or going to lunch), the transmission shifts just
>>fine from park into reverse - no loud clunking or delay before it
>>drops into reverse. This happens ONLY when the thing has been sitting
>>in the garage for a while.
>>
>>Transmission fluid level is OK, and the color seems fine (light
>>reddish color).
>>
>>Any ideas out there as to the cause?
>>
>>Thanks in advance.
>>
>>(please reply to the group - my e-mail address is munged to prevent
>>SPAM)
I didn't think about it too much until one day I was driving along,
gave it some gas to climb a hill, and suddenly it was like someone was
beating on the bottom of the car with a sledge hammer.
Pulled over to the side of the road and everything seemed fine, engine
was idling quietly, gages all normal. Shut it off and walked around the
back of the car where I noticed the yoke from the back of the
transmission laying in the sand behind the car, and then the drive shaft
a few yards back.
I put the drive shaft in the trunk and started walking (about 20 miles
from home, in the middle of Fort Bragg back when it was a shortcut from
Fayetteville to Southern Pines NC). I'd never hitchhiked before (or
sense) but the first car to come along I stuck out my thumb, they picked
me up and dropped me off in front of my house!
Moral of the story, watch your U Joints!
Jeff DeWitt
Mike Romain wrote:
> You are describing the noise and feel of a blown u-joint.
>
> If you block the wheels and put it in neutral to unload the drivetrain,
> you can go under and check the driveshaft u-joints. You twist and push
> at them as well as do a visual looking for rust stains around the caps.
> One arm on one will likely be just flopping around.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Robert Giles wrote:
>
>>Howdy folks - I have a 2000 WJ, 2WD, 4.0L, 42RE transmission, just shy
>>of 70,000 miles...
>>
>>Seemed to notice this after the weather began to cool down... when
>>starting the vehicle after it has been sitting for more than 8 hours,
>>and shifting from park to reverse, there's a brief, one second delay,
>>then a loud clunk / thump, before it feels like it's in gear and
>>starts actually moving in reverse.
>>
>>If I shift into drive first from park, then reverse, the loud clunk is
>>much less pronounced, but still there.
>>
>>If I drive the vehicle within a certain window of time (ie: leaving
>>work in the afternoon or going to lunch), the transmission shifts just
>>fine from park into reverse - no loud clunking or delay before it
>>drops into reverse. This happens ONLY when the thing has been sitting
>>in the garage for a while.
>>
>>Transmission fluid level is OK, and the color seems fine (light
>>reddish color).
>>
>>Any ideas out there as to the cause?
>>
>>Thanks in advance.
>>
>>(please reply to the group - my e-mail address is munged to prevent
>>SPAM)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clunk when shifting from park to reverse (after sitting overnight)
Many years ago I had a Studebaker Hawk that made a noise just like that.
I didn't think about it too much until one day I was driving along,
gave it some gas to climb a hill, and suddenly it was like someone was
beating on the bottom of the car with a sledge hammer.
Pulled over to the side of the road and everything seemed fine, engine
was idling quietly, gages all normal. Shut it off and walked around the
back of the car where I noticed the yoke from the back of the
transmission laying in the sand behind the car, and then the drive shaft
a few yards back.
I put the drive shaft in the trunk and started walking (about 20 miles
from home, in the middle of Fort Bragg back when it was a shortcut from
Fayetteville to Southern Pines NC). I'd never hitchhiked before (or
sense) but the first car to come along I stuck out my thumb, they picked
me up and dropped me off in front of my house!
Moral of the story, watch your U Joints!
Jeff DeWitt
Mike Romain wrote:
> You are describing the noise and feel of a blown u-joint.
>
> If you block the wheels and put it in neutral to unload the drivetrain,
> you can go under and check the driveshaft u-joints. You twist and push
> at them as well as do a visual looking for rust stains around the caps.
> One arm on one will likely be just flopping around.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Robert Giles wrote:
>
>>Howdy folks - I have a 2000 WJ, 2WD, 4.0L, 42RE transmission, just shy
>>of 70,000 miles...
>>
>>Seemed to notice this after the weather began to cool down... when
>>starting the vehicle after it has been sitting for more than 8 hours,
>>and shifting from park to reverse, there's a brief, one second delay,
>>then a loud clunk / thump, before it feels like it's in gear and
>>starts actually moving in reverse.
>>
>>If I shift into drive first from park, then reverse, the loud clunk is
>>much less pronounced, but still there.
>>
>>If I drive the vehicle within a certain window of time (ie: leaving
>>work in the afternoon or going to lunch), the transmission shifts just
>>fine from park into reverse - no loud clunking or delay before it
>>drops into reverse. This happens ONLY when the thing has been sitting
>>in the garage for a while.
>>
>>Transmission fluid level is OK, and the color seems fine (light
>>reddish color).
>>
>>Any ideas out there as to the cause?
>>
>>Thanks in advance.
>>
>>(please reply to the group - my e-mail address is munged to prevent
>>SPAM)
I didn't think about it too much until one day I was driving along,
gave it some gas to climb a hill, and suddenly it was like someone was
beating on the bottom of the car with a sledge hammer.
Pulled over to the side of the road and everything seemed fine, engine
was idling quietly, gages all normal. Shut it off and walked around the
back of the car where I noticed the yoke from the back of the
transmission laying in the sand behind the car, and then the drive shaft
a few yards back.
I put the drive shaft in the trunk and started walking (about 20 miles
from home, in the middle of Fort Bragg back when it was a shortcut from
Fayetteville to Southern Pines NC). I'd never hitchhiked before (or
sense) but the first car to come along I stuck out my thumb, they picked
me up and dropped me off in front of my house!
Moral of the story, watch your U Joints!
Jeff DeWitt
Mike Romain wrote:
> You are describing the noise and feel of a blown u-joint.
>
> If you block the wheels and put it in neutral to unload the drivetrain,
> you can go under and check the driveshaft u-joints. You twist and push
> at them as well as do a visual looking for rust stains around the caps.
> One arm on one will likely be just flopping around.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Robert Giles wrote:
>
>>Howdy folks - I have a 2000 WJ, 2WD, 4.0L, 42RE transmission, just shy
>>of 70,000 miles...
>>
>>Seemed to notice this after the weather began to cool down... when
>>starting the vehicle after it has been sitting for more than 8 hours,
>>and shifting from park to reverse, there's a brief, one second delay,
>>then a loud clunk / thump, before it feels like it's in gear and
>>starts actually moving in reverse.
>>
>>If I shift into drive first from park, then reverse, the loud clunk is
>>much less pronounced, but still there.
>>
>>If I drive the vehicle within a certain window of time (ie: leaving
>>work in the afternoon or going to lunch), the transmission shifts just
>>fine from park into reverse - no loud clunking or delay before it
>>drops into reverse. This happens ONLY when the thing has been sitting
>>in the garage for a while.
>>
>>Transmission fluid level is OK, and the color seems fine (light
>>reddish color).
>>
>>Any ideas out there as to the cause?
>>
>>Thanks in advance.
>>
>>(please reply to the group - my e-mail address is munged to prevent
>>SPAM)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clunk when shifting from park to reverse (after sitting overnight)
Many years ago I had a Studebaker Hawk that made a noise just like that.
I didn't think about it too much until one day I was driving along,
gave it some gas to climb a hill, and suddenly it was like someone was
beating on the bottom of the car with a sledge hammer.
Pulled over to the side of the road and everything seemed fine, engine
was idling quietly, gages all normal. Shut it off and walked around the
back of the car where I noticed the yoke from the back of the
transmission laying in the sand behind the car, and then the drive shaft
a few yards back.
I put the drive shaft in the trunk and started walking (about 20 miles
from home, in the middle of Fort Bragg back when it was a shortcut from
Fayetteville to Southern Pines NC). I'd never hitchhiked before (or
sense) but the first car to come along I stuck out my thumb, they picked
me up and dropped me off in front of my house!
Moral of the story, watch your U Joints!
Jeff DeWitt
Mike Romain wrote:
> You are describing the noise and feel of a blown u-joint.
>
> If you block the wheels and put it in neutral to unload the drivetrain,
> you can go under and check the driveshaft u-joints. You twist and push
> at them as well as do a visual looking for rust stains around the caps.
> One arm on one will likely be just flopping around.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Robert Giles wrote:
>
>>Howdy folks - I have a 2000 WJ, 2WD, 4.0L, 42RE transmission, just shy
>>of 70,000 miles...
>>
>>Seemed to notice this after the weather began to cool down... when
>>starting the vehicle after it has been sitting for more than 8 hours,
>>and shifting from park to reverse, there's a brief, one second delay,
>>then a loud clunk / thump, before it feels like it's in gear and
>>starts actually moving in reverse.
>>
>>If I shift into drive first from park, then reverse, the loud clunk is
>>much less pronounced, but still there.
>>
>>If I drive the vehicle within a certain window of time (ie: leaving
>>work in the afternoon or going to lunch), the transmission shifts just
>>fine from park into reverse - no loud clunking or delay before it
>>drops into reverse. This happens ONLY when the thing has been sitting
>>in the garage for a while.
>>
>>Transmission fluid level is OK, and the color seems fine (light
>>reddish color).
>>
>>Any ideas out there as to the cause?
>>
>>Thanks in advance.
>>
>>(please reply to the group - my e-mail address is munged to prevent
>>SPAM)
I didn't think about it too much until one day I was driving along,
gave it some gas to climb a hill, and suddenly it was like someone was
beating on the bottom of the car with a sledge hammer.
Pulled over to the side of the road and everything seemed fine, engine
was idling quietly, gages all normal. Shut it off and walked around the
back of the car where I noticed the yoke from the back of the
transmission laying in the sand behind the car, and then the drive shaft
a few yards back.
I put the drive shaft in the trunk and started walking (about 20 miles
from home, in the middle of Fort Bragg back when it was a shortcut from
Fayetteville to Southern Pines NC). I'd never hitchhiked before (or
sense) but the first car to come along I stuck out my thumb, they picked
me up and dropped me off in front of my house!
Moral of the story, watch your U Joints!
Jeff DeWitt
Mike Romain wrote:
> You are describing the noise and feel of a blown u-joint.
>
> If you block the wheels and put it in neutral to unload the drivetrain,
> you can go under and check the driveshaft u-joints. You twist and push
> at them as well as do a visual looking for rust stains around the caps.
> One arm on one will likely be just flopping around.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Robert Giles wrote:
>
>>Howdy folks - I have a 2000 WJ, 2WD, 4.0L, 42RE transmission, just shy
>>of 70,000 miles...
>>
>>Seemed to notice this after the weather began to cool down... when
>>starting the vehicle after it has been sitting for more than 8 hours,
>>and shifting from park to reverse, there's a brief, one second delay,
>>then a loud clunk / thump, before it feels like it's in gear and
>>starts actually moving in reverse.
>>
>>If I shift into drive first from park, then reverse, the loud clunk is
>>much less pronounced, but still there.
>>
>>If I drive the vehicle within a certain window of time (ie: leaving
>>work in the afternoon or going to lunch), the transmission shifts just
>>fine from park into reverse - no loud clunking or delay before it
>>drops into reverse. This happens ONLY when the thing has been sitting
>>in the garage for a while.
>>
>>Transmission fluid level is OK, and the color seems fine (light
>>reddish color).
>>
>>Any ideas out there as to the cause?
>>
>>Thanks in advance.
>>
>>(please reply to the group - my e-mail address is munged to prevent
>>SPAM)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clunk when shifting from park to reverse (after sitting overnight)
On Wed, 13 Dec 2006 17:47:49 -0800, Outatime <user@example.net> wrote:
>Have you ever serviced the transmission? Has anyone else serviced it?
>When?
Nope, never been serviced. Have to pull the factory manual out again
to find out what "servicing" entails beyond just changing the fluid...
>Definitely check the U-joints first, as others suggested. Other misc.
>transmission problems often come back to an incorrect fluid level, fluid
>contamination causing internal valve spools to stick causing line
>pressure problems, foaming of the fluid (usu. due to an internal leak or
>cracked case) or the wrong type of fluid in the transmission to begin
>with, most often put there by Jiffy Lube outfits.
Ok - would fluid contamination be detectable just by looking at the
dipstick?
Thanks for the tips, greatly appreciated.
Robert Giles
>Have you ever serviced the transmission? Has anyone else serviced it?
>When?
Nope, never been serviced. Have to pull the factory manual out again
to find out what "servicing" entails beyond just changing the fluid...
>Definitely check the U-joints first, as others suggested. Other misc.
>transmission problems often come back to an incorrect fluid level, fluid
>contamination causing internal valve spools to stick causing line
>pressure problems, foaming of the fluid (usu. due to an internal leak or
>cracked case) or the wrong type of fluid in the transmission to begin
>with, most often put there by Jiffy Lube outfits.
Ok - would fluid contamination be detectable just by looking at the
dipstick?
Thanks for the tips, greatly appreciated.
Robert Giles
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clunk when shifting from park to reverse (after sitting overnight)
On Wed, 13 Dec 2006 17:47:49 -0800, Outatime <user@example.net> wrote:
>Have you ever serviced the transmission? Has anyone else serviced it?
>When?
Nope, never been serviced. Have to pull the factory manual out again
to find out what "servicing" entails beyond just changing the fluid...
>Definitely check the U-joints first, as others suggested. Other misc.
>transmission problems often come back to an incorrect fluid level, fluid
>contamination causing internal valve spools to stick causing line
>pressure problems, foaming of the fluid (usu. due to an internal leak or
>cracked case) or the wrong type of fluid in the transmission to begin
>with, most often put there by Jiffy Lube outfits.
Ok - would fluid contamination be detectable just by looking at the
dipstick?
Thanks for the tips, greatly appreciated.
Robert Giles
>Have you ever serviced the transmission? Has anyone else serviced it?
>When?
Nope, never been serviced. Have to pull the factory manual out again
to find out what "servicing" entails beyond just changing the fluid...
>Definitely check the U-joints first, as others suggested. Other misc.
>transmission problems often come back to an incorrect fluid level, fluid
>contamination causing internal valve spools to stick causing line
>pressure problems, foaming of the fluid (usu. due to an internal leak or
>cracked case) or the wrong type of fluid in the transmission to begin
>with, most often put there by Jiffy Lube outfits.
Ok - would fluid contamination be detectable just by looking at the
dipstick?
Thanks for the tips, greatly appreciated.
Robert Giles
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clunk when shifting from park to reverse (after sitting overnight)
On Wed, 13 Dec 2006 17:47:49 -0800, Outatime <user@example.net> wrote:
>Have you ever serviced the transmission? Has anyone else serviced it?
>When?
Nope, never been serviced. Have to pull the factory manual out again
to find out what "servicing" entails beyond just changing the fluid...
>Definitely check the U-joints first, as others suggested. Other misc.
>transmission problems often come back to an incorrect fluid level, fluid
>contamination causing internal valve spools to stick causing line
>pressure problems, foaming of the fluid (usu. due to an internal leak or
>cracked case) or the wrong type of fluid in the transmission to begin
>with, most often put there by Jiffy Lube outfits.
Ok - would fluid contamination be detectable just by looking at the
dipstick?
Thanks for the tips, greatly appreciated.
Robert Giles
>Have you ever serviced the transmission? Has anyone else serviced it?
>When?
Nope, never been serviced. Have to pull the factory manual out again
to find out what "servicing" entails beyond just changing the fluid...
>Definitely check the U-joints first, as others suggested. Other misc.
>transmission problems often come back to an incorrect fluid level, fluid
>contamination causing internal valve spools to stick causing line
>pressure problems, foaming of the fluid (usu. due to an internal leak or
>cracked case) or the wrong type of fluid in the transmission to begin
>with, most often put there by Jiffy Lube outfits.
Ok - would fluid contamination be detectable just by looking at the
dipstick?
Thanks for the tips, greatly appreciated.
Robert Giles
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clunk when shifting from park to reverse (after sitting overnight)
On Wed, 13 Dec 2006 10:49:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>You are describing the noise and feel of a blown u-joint.
>
>If you block the wheels and put it in neutral to unload the drivetrain,
>you can go under and check the driveshaft u-joints. You twist and push
>at them as well as do a visual looking for rust stains around the caps.
>One arm on one will likely be just flopping around.
I'll get under it tonight and have a look... I'm kinda surprised it
would only do this when the thing has been sitting for a while,
though.
Wouldn't a damaged u-joint pretty consistently give you the same
"clunk", when shifting from park to reverse *or* drive? (this only
happens going into reverse from park, and only after it's been sitting
for a while).
The transmission always seems to shift a bit harsher when it's cooler
outside (than our standard 98 degree summer weather)... maybe this is
also temperature related, too...
Thanks for the tips -
Robert Giles
wrote:
>You are describing the noise and feel of a blown u-joint.
>
>If you block the wheels and put it in neutral to unload the drivetrain,
>you can go under and check the driveshaft u-joints. You twist and push
>at them as well as do a visual looking for rust stains around the caps.
>One arm on one will likely be just flopping around.
I'll get under it tonight and have a look... I'm kinda surprised it
would only do this when the thing has been sitting for a while,
though.
Wouldn't a damaged u-joint pretty consistently give you the same
"clunk", when shifting from park to reverse *or* drive? (this only
happens going into reverse from park, and only after it's been sitting
for a while).
The transmission always seems to shift a bit harsher when it's cooler
outside (than our standard 98 degree summer weather)... maybe this is
also temperature related, too...
Thanks for the tips -
Robert Giles