CJ7 Evaporator canister
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ7 Evaporator canister
Is the emissions computer still in the ignition circuit?
A fast way to tell is to look at the plug on the ignition module that
sits way down on the fender by the canister. The module has 3 wires
coming out of it, an orange, a black and a purple. If it is still
stock, the purple wire will terminate at the plug and not continue on.
If the purple wire is connected, then likely someone has taken that poor
excuse for a Ford emissions computer out of your misery.
And just FYI, I needed a hammer and chisel to get the first canister air
filter out. It was a pain to dig all the pieces out, but after that the
new filter tucks right in.
Mike
jeepguymike wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Two things that I know of for sure: 1: my buddy that I bought the Jeep
> from replaced the entire fuel system, so what you said about the lines
> MAY hold true. I'll monkey with that tomorrow in the 90 degree heat
> we're getting here in Michigan.
>
> And 2: Michigan doesn't have emissions testing, but they do in the
> detroit area, of which I DO NOT live (but grew up in).
>
> All great advice! I did see the filters on a couple of web sites, so I
> may as well get those and replace them. I doubt anybody has, ever. I
> can afford to spend 2 bucks...
>
> Updates tomorrow!
A fast way to tell is to look at the plug on the ignition module that
sits way down on the fender by the canister. The module has 3 wires
coming out of it, an orange, a black and a purple. If it is still
stock, the purple wire will terminate at the plug and not continue on.
If the purple wire is connected, then likely someone has taken that poor
excuse for a Ford emissions computer out of your misery.
And just FYI, I needed a hammer and chisel to get the first canister air
filter out. It was a pain to dig all the pieces out, but after that the
new filter tucks right in.
Mike
jeepguymike wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Two things that I know of for sure: 1: my buddy that I bought the Jeep
> from replaced the entire fuel system, so what you said about the lines
> MAY hold true. I'll monkey with that tomorrow in the 90 degree heat
> we're getting here in Michigan.
>
> And 2: Michigan doesn't have emissions testing, but they do in the
> detroit area, of which I DO NOT live (but grew up in).
>
> All great advice! I did see the filters on a couple of web sites, so I
> may as well get those and replace them. I doubt anybody has, ever. I
> can afford to spend 2 bucks...
>
> Updates tomorrow!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ7 Evaporator canister
Is the emissions computer still in the ignition circuit?
A fast way to tell is to look at the plug on the ignition module that
sits way down on the fender by the canister. The module has 3 wires
coming out of it, an orange, a black and a purple. If it is still
stock, the purple wire will terminate at the plug and not continue on.
If the purple wire is connected, then likely someone has taken that poor
excuse for a Ford emissions computer out of your misery.
And just FYI, I needed a hammer and chisel to get the first canister air
filter out. It was a pain to dig all the pieces out, but after that the
new filter tucks right in.
Mike
jeepguymike wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Two things that I know of for sure: 1: my buddy that I bought the Jeep
> from replaced the entire fuel system, so what you said about the lines
> MAY hold true. I'll monkey with that tomorrow in the 90 degree heat
> we're getting here in Michigan.
>
> And 2: Michigan doesn't have emissions testing, but they do in the
> detroit area, of which I DO NOT live (but grew up in).
>
> All great advice! I did see the filters on a couple of web sites, so I
> may as well get those and replace them. I doubt anybody has, ever. I
> can afford to spend 2 bucks...
>
> Updates tomorrow!
A fast way to tell is to look at the plug on the ignition module that
sits way down on the fender by the canister. The module has 3 wires
coming out of it, an orange, a black and a purple. If it is still
stock, the purple wire will terminate at the plug and not continue on.
If the purple wire is connected, then likely someone has taken that poor
excuse for a Ford emissions computer out of your misery.
And just FYI, I needed a hammer and chisel to get the first canister air
filter out. It was a pain to dig all the pieces out, but after that the
new filter tucks right in.
Mike
jeepguymike wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Two things that I know of for sure: 1: my buddy that I bought the Jeep
> from replaced the entire fuel system, so what you said about the lines
> MAY hold true. I'll monkey with that tomorrow in the 90 degree heat
> we're getting here in Michigan.
>
> And 2: Michigan doesn't have emissions testing, but they do in the
> detroit area, of which I DO NOT live (but grew up in).
>
> All great advice! I did see the filters on a couple of web sites, so I
> may as well get those and replace them. I doubt anybody has, ever. I
> can afford to spend 2 bucks...
>
> Updates tomorrow!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ7 Evaporator canister
Hi Mike,
I've been having this same issue with fumes in my '84 CJ for a while. I
just wanted to chime in and thank you for the time you spent explaining how
to fix this.
--
Pete
'84 CJ-7 with a bunch of engine mods. Looks pretty stock from the outside.
'04 Audi S4 Nogaro Blue/White leather, bone stock.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4479BAF1.4E0EF744@sympatico.ca...
> When mine crapped out I tried to drive without one, but the gas fumes
> were just too much. My wife insisted I replace it because her hair and
> clothes would pick up the fumes.
>
> The canister is actually a needed part. It is the gas tank and carb
> float bowl vent.
>
> Lots of folks have tried to do without a canister over the years, but
> none have posted back about any way to do it successfully....
>
> Yes you can easily disconnect it by removing the tube from the carb
> float bowl and the gas tank tube and leave these open to the air. They
> cannot be plugged or the vehicle will starve for gas. Then the small
> line from the EGR/CTO system can be pulled off the top purge valve and
> be plugged.
>
> This in effect vents your carb and gas tank to the open air. They will
> puke out an amazing amount of gas fumes on a hot day.
>
> Some basics on it. There is a $2.00 filter on the bottom of the
> canister that should be changed with every major tune up or after a mud
> pit run. When it plugs up it puts a vacuum on the float bowl and gas
> tank which imitates running out of gas really well. I have had to drive
> home from the mud pits with my gas cap loose several times because I
> plugged the filter. I moved my canister way up by the brake reservoir
> to avoid this and put the washer tank down low. Changing the filter for
> the first time is a chore to dig it out. The new filter just tucks back
> in.
>
> To test the canister for leaks, you start the engine and have it at idle
> then you pinch closed the line that runs from the PCV system at the rear
> of the carb down to the canister. If the idle changes, the canister
> purge valve is bad. If you think the plumbing to the purge valve (the
> little round thing on top of the canister) is bad/wrong, then just pull
> that little vacuum line off before doing the above pinch test.
>
> If it fails the pinch test, then you need a new canister.
>
> When folks remove the emissions computer and emissions crap for off road
> use, there are a couple basic players that still need to be in place for
> a good running engine. The PCV system, the air filter flaps that suck
> hot air on cold days so the carb doesn't turn into a block of ice and
> the gas tank vent or canister. Some engines run better with the EGR in
> place too.
>
> The canister basic plumbing has a ported vacuum coming through the CTO
> valve and the air filter thermostat down to the EGR and canister purge.
> That is the small line to the top of the canister. This makes sure the
> canister doesn't turn on unless you are under throttle with a warmed up
> cooling system and a warmed up carburetor.
>
> The large lines go to the carb float bowl and the gas tank. The purge
> line comes from below that little round disk up to a T fitting in the
> PCV line just behind the carb. If you have a solenoid thing there, you
> can toss it and just put a T fitting in. The solenoid never did work
> right and the factory fix was just a straight T so I have been told.
>
> Here is a good site with most of the plumbing and other things
> explained:
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> jeepguymike wrote:
>>
>> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
>> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
>> this following issue:
>>
>> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
>> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
>> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.
>>
>> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
>> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
>> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
>> factory.
>>
>> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>>
>> -Weber
>> OllllllO
I've been having this same issue with fumes in my '84 CJ for a while. I
just wanted to chime in and thank you for the time you spent explaining how
to fix this.
--
Pete
'84 CJ-7 with a bunch of engine mods. Looks pretty stock from the outside.
'04 Audi S4 Nogaro Blue/White leather, bone stock.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4479BAF1.4E0EF744@sympatico.ca...
> When mine crapped out I tried to drive without one, but the gas fumes
> were just too much. My wife insisted I replace it because her hair and
> clothes would pick up the fumes.
>
> The canister is actually a needed part. It is the gas tank and carb
> float bowl vent.
>
> Lots of folks have tried to do without a canister over the years, but
> none have posted back about any way to do it successfully....
>
> Yes you can easily disconnect it by removing the tube from the carb
> float bowl and the gas tank tube and leave these open to the air. They
> cannot be plugged or the vehicle will starve for gas. Then the small
> line from the EGR/CTO system can be pulled off the top purge valve and
> be plugged.
>
> This in effect vents your carb and gas tank to the open air. They will
> puke out an amazing amount of gas fumes on a hot day.
>
> Some basics on it. There is a $2.00 filter on the bottom of the
> canister that should be changed with every major tune up or after a mud
> pit run. When it plugs up it puts a vacuum on the float bowl and gas
> tank which imitates running out of gas really well. I have had to drive
> home from the mud pits with my gas cap loose several times because I
> plugged the filter. I moved my canister way up by the brake reservoir
> to avoid this and put the washer tank down low. Changing the filter for
> the first time is a chore to dig it out. The new filter just tucks back
> in.
>
> To test the canister for leaks, you start the engine and have it at idle
> then you pinch closed the line that runs from the PCV system at the rear
> of the carb down to the canister. If the idle changes, the canister
> purge valve is bad. If you think the plumbing to the purge valve (the
> little round thing on top of the canister) is bad/wrong, then just pull
> that little vacuum line off before doing the above pinch test.
>
> If it fails the pinch test, then you need a new canister.
>
> When folks remove the emissions computer and emissions crap for off road
> use, there are a couple basic players that still need to be in place for
> a good running engine. The PCV system, the air filter flaps that suck
> hot air on cold days so the carb doesn't turn into a block of ice and
> the gas tank vent or canister. Some engines run better with the EGR in
> place too.
>
> The canister basic plumbing has a ported vacuum coming through the CTO
> valve and the air filter thermostat down to the EGR and canister purge.
> That is the small line to the top of the canister. This makes sure the
> canister doesn't turn on unless you are under throttle with a warmed up
> cooling system and a warmed up carburetor.
>
> The large lines go to the carb float bowl and the gas tank. The purge
> line comes from below that little round disk up to a T fitting in the
> PCV line just behind the carb. If you have a solenoid thing there, you
> can toss it and just put a T fitting in. The solenoid never did work
> right and the factory fix was just a straight T so I have been told.
>
> Here is a good site with most of the plumbing and other things
> explained:
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> jeepguymike wrote:
>>
>> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
>> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
>> this following issue:
>>
>> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
>> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
>> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.
>>
>> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
>> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
>> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
>> factory.
>>
>> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>>
>> -Weber
>> OllllllO
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ7 Evaporator canister
Hi Mike,
I've been having this same issue with fumes in my '84 CJ for a while. I
just wanted to chime in and thank you for the time you spent explaining how
to fix this.
--
Pete
'84 CJ-7 with a bunch of engine mods. Looks pretty stock from the outside.
'04 Audi S4 Nogaro Blue/White leather, bone stock.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4479BAF1.4E0EF744@sympatico.ca...
> When mine crapped out I tried to drive without one, but the gas fumes
> were just too much. My wife insisted I replace it because her hair and
> clothes would pick up the fumes.
>
> The canister is actually a needed part. It is the gas tank and carb
> float bowl vent.
>
> Lots of folks have tried to do without a canister over the years, but
> none have posted back about any way to do it successfully....
>
> Yes you can easily disconnect it by removing the tube from the carb
> float bowl and the gas tank tube and leave these open to the air. They
> cannot be plugged or the vehicle will starve for gas. Then the small
> line from the EGR/CTO system can be pulled off the top purge valve and
> be plugged.
>
> This in effect vents your carb and gas tank to the open air. They will
> puke out an amazing amount of gas fumes on a hot day.
>
> Some basics on it. There is a $2.00 filter on the bottom of the
> canister that should be changed with every major tune up or after a mud
> pit run. When it plugs up it puts a vacuum on the float bowl and gas
> tank which imitates running out of gas really well. I have had to drive
> home from the mud pits with my gas cap loose several times because I
> plugged the filter. I moved my canister way up by the brake reservoir
> to avoid this and put the washer tank down low. Changing the filter for
> the first time is a chore to dig it out. The new filter just tucks back
> in.
>
> To test the canister for leaks, you start the engine and have it at idle
> then you pinch closed the line that runs from the PCV system at the rear
> of the carb down to the canister. If the idle changes, the canister
> purge valve is bad. If you think the plumbing to the purge valve (the
> little round thing on top of the canister) is bad/wrong, then just pull
> that little vacuum line off before doing the above pinch test.
>
> If it fails the pinch test, then you need a new canister.
>
> When folks remove the emissions computer and emissions crap for off road
> use, there are a couple basic players that still need to be in place for
> a good running engine. The PCV system, the air filter flaps that suck
> hot air on cold days so the carb doesn't turn into a block of ice and
> the gas tank vent or canister. Some engines run better with the EGR in
> place too.
>
> The canister basic plumbing has a ported vacuum coming through the CTO
> valve and the air filter thermostat down to the EGR and canister purge.
> That is the small line to the top of the canister. This makes sure the
> canister doesn't turn on unless you are under throttle with a warmed up
> cooling system and a warmed up carburetor.
>
> The large lines go to the carb float bowl and the gas tank. The purge
> line comes from below that little round disk up to a T fitting in the
> PCV line just behind the carb. If you have a solenoid thing there, you
> can toss it and just put a T fitting in. The solenoid never did work
> right and the factory fix was just a straight T so I have been told.
>
> Here is a good site with most of the plumbing and other things
> explained:
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> jeepguymike wrote:
>>
>> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
>> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
>> this following issue:
>>
>> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
>> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
>> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.
>>
>> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
>> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
>> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
>> factory.
>>
>> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>>
>> -Weber
>> OllllllO
I've been having this same issue with fumes in my '84 CJ for a while. I
just wanted to chime in and thank you for the time you spent explaining how
to fix this.
--
Pete
'84 CJ-7 with a bunch of engine mods. Looks pretty stock from the outside.
'04 Audi S4 Nogaro Blue/White leather, bone stock.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4479BAF1.4E0EF744@sympatico.ca...
> When mine crapped out I tried to drive without one, but the gas fumes
> were just too much. My wife insisted I replace it because her hair and
> clothes would pick up the fumes.
>
> The canister is actually a needed part. It is the gas tank and carb
> float bowl vent.
>
> Lots of folks have tried to do without a canister over the years, but
> none have posted back about any way to do it successfully....
>
> Yes you can easily disconnect it by removing the tube from the carb
> float bowl and the gas tank tube and leave these open to the air. They
> cannot be plugged or the vehicle will starve for gas. Then the small
> line from the EGR/CTO system can be pulled off the top purge valve and
> be plugged.
>
> This in effect vents your carb and gas tank to the open air. They will
> puke out an amazing amount of gas fumes on a hot day.
>
> Some basics on it. There is a $2.00 filter on the bottom of the
> canister that should be changed with every major tune up or after a mud
> pit run. When it plugs up it puts a vacuum on the float bowl and gas
> tank which imitates running out of gas really well. I have had to drive
> home from the mud pits with my gas cap loose several times because I
> plugged the filter. I moved my canister way up by the brake reservoir
> to avoid this and put the washer tank down low. Changing the filter for
> the first time is a chore to dig it out. The new filter just tucks back
> in.
>
> To test the canister for leaks, you start the engine and have it at idle
> then you pinch closed the line that runs from the PCV system at the rear
> of the carb down to the canister. If the idle changes, the canister
> purge valve is bad. If you think the plumbing to the purge valve (the
> little round thing on top of the canister) is bad/wrong, then just pull
> that little vacuum line off before doing the above pinch test.
>
> If it fails the pinch test, then you need a new canister.
>
> When folks remove the emissions computer and emissions crap for off road
> use, there are a couple basic players that still need to be in place for
> a good running engine. The PCV system, the air filter flaps that suck
> hot air on cold days so the carb doesn't turn into a block of ice and
> the gas tank vent or canister. Some engines run better with the EGR in
> place too.
>
> The canister basic plumbing has a ported vacuum coming through the CTO
> valve and the air filter thermostat down to the EGR and canister purge.
> That is the small line to the top of the canister. This makes sure the
> canister doesn't turn on unless you are under throttle with a warmed up
> cooling system and a warmed up carburetor.
>
> The large lines go to the carb float bowl and the gas tank. The purge
> line comes from below that little round disk up to a T fitting in the
> PCV line just behind the carb. If you have a solenoid thing there, you
> can toss it and just put a T fitting in. The solenoid never did work
> right and the factory fix was just a straight T so I have been told.
>
> Here is a good site with most of the plumbing and other things
> explained:
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> jeepguymike wrote:
>>
>> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
>> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
>> this following issue:
>>
>> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
>> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
>> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.
>>
>> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
>> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
>> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
>> factory.
>>
>> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>>
>> -Weber
>> OllllllO
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ7 Evaporator canister
Hi Mike,
I've been having this same issue with fumes in my '84 CJ for a while. I
just wanted to chime in and thank you for the time you spent explaining how
to fix this.
--
Pete
'84 CJ-7 with a bunch of engine mods. Looks pretty stock from the outside.
'04 Audi S4 Nogaro Blue/White leather, bone stock.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4479BAF1.4E0EF744@sympatico.ca...
> When mine crapped out I tried to drive without one, but the gas fumes
> were just too much. My wife insisted I replace it because her hair and
> clothes would pick up the fumes.
>
> The canister is actually a needed part. It is the gas tank and carb
> float bowl vent.
>
> Lots of folks have tried to do without a canister over the years, but
> none have posted back about any way to do it successfully....
>
> Yes you can easily disconnect it by removing the tube from the carb
> float bowl and the gas tank tube and leave these open to the air. They
> cannot be plugged or the vehicle will starve for gas. Then the small
> line from the EGR/CTO system can be pulled off the top purge valve and
> be plugged.
>
> This in effect vents your carb and gas tank to the open air. They will
> puke out an amazing amount of gas fumes on a hot day.
>
> Some basics on it. There is a $2.00 filter on the bottom of the
> canister that should be changed with every major tune up or after a mud
> pit run. When it plugs up it puts a vacuum on the float bowl and gas
> tank which imitates running out of gas really well. I have had to drive
> home from the mud pits with my gas cap loose several times because I
> plugged the filter. I moved my canister way up by the brake reservoir
> to avoid this and put the washer tank down low. Changing the filter for
> the first time is a chore to dig it out. The new filter just tucks back
> in.
>
> To test the canister for leaks, you start the engine and have it at idle
> then you pinch closed the line that runs from the PCV system at the rear
> of the carb down to the canister. If the idle changes, the canister
> purge valve is bad. If you think the plumbing to the purge valve (the
> little round thing on top of the canister) is bad/wrong, then just pull
> that little vacuum line off before doing the above pinch test.
>
> If it fails the pinch test, then you need a new canister.
>
> When folks remove the emissions computer and emissions crap for off road
> use, there are a couple basic players that still need to be in place for
> a good running engine. The PCV system, the air filter flaps that suck
> hot air on cold days so the carb doesn't turn into a block of ice and
> the gas tank vent or canister. Some engines run better with the EGR in
> place too.
>
> The canister basic plumbing has a ported vacuum coming through the CTO
> valve and the air filter thermostat down to the EGR and canister purge.
> That is the small line to the top of the canister. This makes sure the
> canister doesn't turn on unless you are under throttle with a warmed up
> cooling system and a warmed up carburetor.
>
> The large lines go to the carb float bowl and the gas tank. The purge
> line comes from below that little round disk up to a T fitting in the
> PCV line just behind the carb. If you have a solenoid thing there, you
> can toss it and just put a T fitting in. The solenoid never did work
> right and the factory fix was just a straight T so I have been told.
>
> Here is a good site with most of the plumbing and other things
> explained:
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> jeepguymike wrote:
>>
>> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
>> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
>> this following issue:
>>
>> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
>> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
>> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.
>>
>> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
>> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
>> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
>> factory.
>>
>> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>>
>> -Weber
>> OllllllO
I've been having this same issue with fumes in my '84 CJ for a while. I
just wanted to chime in and thank you for the time you spent explaining how
to fix this.
--
Pete
'84 CJ-7 with a bunch of engine mods. Looks pretty stock from the outside.
'04 Audi S4 Nogaro Blue/White leather, bone stock.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4479BAF1.4E0EF744@sympatico.ca...
> When mine crapped out I tried to drive without one, but the gas fumes
> were just too much. My wife insisted I replace it because her hair and
> clothes would pick up the fumes.
>
> The canister is actually a needed part. It is the gas tank and carb
> float bowl vent.
>
> Lots of folks have tried to do without a canister over the years, but
> none have posted back about any way to do it successfully....
>
> Yes you can easily disconnect it by removing the tube from the carb
> float bowl and the gas tank tube and leave these open to the air. They
> cannot be plugged or the vehicle will starve for gas. Then the small
> line from the EGR/CTO system can be pulled off the top purge valve and
> be plugged.
>
> This in effect vents your carb and gas tank to the open air. They will
> puke out an amazing amount of gas fumes on a hot day.
>
> Some basics on it. There is a $2.00 filter on the bottom of the
> canister that should be changed with every major tune up or after a mud
> pit run. When it plugs up it puts a vacuum on the float bowl and gas
> tank which imitates running out of gas really well. I have had to drive
> home from the mud pits with my gas cap loose several times because I
> plugged the filter. I moved my canister way up by the brake reservoir
> to avoid this and put the washer tank down low. Changing the filter for
> the first time is a chore to dig it out. The new filter just tucks back
> in.
>
> To test the canister for leaks, you start the engine and have it at idle
> then you pinch closed the line that runs from the PCV system at the rear
> of the carb down to the canister. If the idle changes, the canister
> purge valve is bad. If you think the plumbing to the purge valve (the
> little round thing on top of the canister) is bad/wrong, then just pull
> that little vacuum line off before doing the above pinch test.
>
> If it fails the pinch test, then you need a new canister.
>
> When folks remove the emissions computer and emissions crap for off road
> use, there are a couple basic players that still need to be in place for
> a good running engine. The PCV system, the air filter flaps that suck
> hot air on cold days so the carb doesn't turn into a block of ice and
> the gas tank vent or canister. Some engines run better with the EGR in
> place too.
>
> The canister basic plumbing has a ported vacuum coming through the CTO
> valve and the air filter thermostat down to the EGR and canister purge.
> That is the small line to the top of the canister. This makes sure the
> canister doesn't turn on unless you are under throttle with a warmed up
> cooling system and a warmed up carburetor.
>
> The large lines go to the carb float bowl and the gas tank. The purge
> line comes from below that little round disk up to a T fitting in the
> PCV line just behind the carb. If you have a solenoid thing there, you
> can toss it and just put a T fitting in. The solenoid never did work
> right and the factory fix was just a straight T so I have been told.
>
> Here is a good site with most of the plumbing and other things
> explained:
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> jeepguymike wrote:
>>
>> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
>> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
>> this following issue:
>>
>> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
>> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
>> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.
>>
>> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
>> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
>> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
>> factory.
>>
>> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>>
>> -Weber
>> OllllllO
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