I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
this following issue:

I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.

That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
factory.

Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?

Thanks in advance!

-Weber
OllllllO

 

Mike Romain can get you set up back to the factory configuration.

The system is pretty straight forward..... it just holds gasoline vapors
from the tank and ports them into the intake..

"jeepguymike" <jeepguymike@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148778761.419170.12970@j33g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
> this following issue:
>
> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.
>
> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
> factory.
>
> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Weber
> OllllllO
>

 

Mike Romain can get you set up back to the factory configuration.

The system is pretty straight forward..... it just holds gasoline vapors
from the tank and ports them into the intake..

"jeepguymike" <jeepguymike@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148778761.419170.12970@j33g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
> this following issue:
>
> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.
>
> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
> factory.
>
> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Weber
> OllllllO
>

 

Mike Romain can get you set up back to the factory configuration.

The system is pretty straight forward..... it just holds gasoline vapors
from the tank and ports them into the intake..

"jeepguymike" <jeepguymike@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148778761.419170.12970@j33g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
> this following issue:
>
> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.
>
> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
> factory.
>
> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Weber
> OllllllO
>

 

It's a charcoal canister, and you can get a new one for about $25. If you
live in a state where they have smog laws, then you will need the canister
to pass muster with the Smog *****.

How do you know it leaks? What are your symptoms?




"jeepguymike" <jeepguymike@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148778761.419170.12970@j33g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
> this following issue:
>
> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.
>
> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
> factory.
>
> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Weber
> OllllllO
>

 

It's a charcoal canister, and you can get a new one for about $25. If you
live in a state where they have smog laws, then you will need the canister
to pass muster with the Smog *****.

How do you know it leaks? What are your symptoms?




"jeepguymike" <jeepguymike@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148778761.419170.12970@j33g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
> this following issue:
>
> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.
>
> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
> factory.
>
> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Weber
> OllllllO
>

 

It's a charcoal canister, and you can get a new one for about $25. If you
live in a state where they have smog laws, then you will need the canister
to pass muster with the Smog *****.

How do you know it leaks? What are your symptoms?




"jeepguymike" <jeepguymike@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148778761.419170.12970@j33g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
> this following issue:
>
> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.
>
> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
> factory.
>
> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Weber
> OllllllO
>

 

When mine crapped out I tried to drive without one, but the gas fumes
were just too much. My wife insisted I replace it because her hair and
clothes would pick up the fumes.

The canister is actually a needed part. It is the gas tank and carb
float bowl vent.

Lots of folks have tried to do without a canister over the years, but
none have posted back about any way to do it successfully....

Yes you can easily disconnect it by removing the tube from the carb
float bowl and the gas tank tube and leave these open to the air. They
cannot be plugged or the vehicle will starve for gas. Then the small
line from the EGR/CTO system can be pulled off the top purge valve and
be plugged.

This in effect vents your carb and gas tank to the open air. They will
puke out an amazing amount of gas fumes on a hot day.

Some basics on it. There is a $2.00 filter on the bottom of the
canister that should be changed with every major tune up or after a mud
pit run. When it plugs up it puts a vacuum on the float bowl and gas
tank which imitates running out of gas really well. I have had to drive
home from the mud pits with my gas cap loose several times because I
plugged the filter. I moved my canister way up by the brake reservoir
to avoid this and put the washer tank down low. Changing the filter for
the first time is a chore to dig it out. The new filter just tucks back
in.

To test the canister for leaks, you start the engine and have it at idle
then you pinch closed the line that runs from the PCV system at the rear
of the carb down to the canister. If the idle changes, the canister
purge valve is bad. If you think the plumbing to the purge valve (the
little round thing on top of the canister) is bad/wrong, then just pull
that little vacuum line off before doing the above pinch test.

If it fails the pinch test, then you need a new canister.

When folks remove the emissions computer and emissions crap for off road
use, there are a couple basic players that still need to be in place for
a good running engine. The PCV system, the air filter flaps that suck
hot air on cold days so the carb doesn't turn into a block of ice and
the gas tank vent or canister. Some engines run better with the EGR in
place too.

The canister basic plumbing has a ported vacuum coming through the CTO
valve and the air filter thermostat down to the EGR and canister purge.
That is the small line to the top of the canister. This makes sure the
canister doesn't turn on unless you are under throttle with a warmed up
cooling system and a warmed up carburetor.

The large lines go to the carb float bowl and the gas tank. The purge
line comes from below that little round disk up to a T fitting in the
PCV line just behind the carb. If you have a solenoid thing there, you
can toss it and just put a T fitting in. The solenoid never did work
right and the factory fix was just a straight T so I have been told.

Here is a good site with most of the plumbing and other things
explained:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

jeepguymike wrote:
>
> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
> this following issue:
>
> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.
>
> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
> factory.
>
> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Weber
> OllllllO

 

When mine crapped out I tried to drive without one, but the gas fumes
were just too much. My wife insisted I replace it because her hair and
clothes would pick up the fumes.

The canister is actually a needed part. It is the gas tank and carb
float bowl vent.

Lots of folks have tried to do without a canister over the years, but
none have posted back about any way to do it successfully....

Yes you can easily disconnect it by removing the tube from the carb
float bowl and the gas tank tube and leave these open to the air. They
cannot be plugged or the vehicle will starve for gas. Then the small
line from the EGR/CTO system can be pulled off the top purge valve and
be plugged.

This in effect vents your carb and gas tank to the open air. They will
puke out an amazing amount of gas fumes on a hot day.

Some basics on it. There is a $2.00 filter on the bottom of the
canister that should be changed with every major tune up or after a mud
pit run. When it plugs up it puts a vacuum on the float bowl and gas
tank which imitates running out of gas really well. I have had to drive
home from the mud pits with my gas cap loose several times because I
plugged the filter. I moved my canister way up by the brake reservoir
to avoid this and put the washer tank down low. Changing the filter for
the first time is a chore to dig it out. The new filter just tucks back
in.

To test the canister for leaks, you start the engine and have it at idle
then you pinch closed the line that runs from the PCV system at the rear
of the carb down to the canister. If the idle changes, the canister
purge valve is bad. If you think the plumbing to the purge valve (the
little round thing on top of the canister) is bad/wrong, then just pull
that little vacuum line off before doing the above pinch test.

If it fails the pinch test, then you need a new canister.

When folks remove the emissions computer and emissions crap for off road
use, there are a couple basic players that still need to be in place for
a good running engine. The PCV system, the air filter flaps that suck
hot air on cold days so the carb doesn't turn into a block of ice and
the gas tank vent or canister. Some engines run better with the EGR in
place too.

The canister basic plumbing has a ported vacuum coming through the CTO
valve and the air filter thermostat down to the EGR and canister purge.
That is the small line to the top of the canister. This makes sure the
canister doesn't turn on unless you are under throttle with a warmed up
cooling system and a warmed up carburetor.

The large lines go to the carb float bowl and the gas tank. The purge
line comes from below that little round disk up to a T fitting in the
PCV line just behind the carb. If you have a solenoid thing there, you
can toss it and just put a T fitting in. The solenoid never did work
right and the factory fix was just a straight T so I have been told.

Here is a good site with most of the plumbing and other things
explained:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

jeepguymike wrote:
>
> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
> this following issue:
>
> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.
>
> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
> factory.
>
> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Weber
> OllllllO

 

When mine crapped out I tried to drive without one, but the gas fumes
were just too much. My wife insisted I replace it because her hair and
clothes would pick up the fumes.

The canister is actually a needed part. It is the gas tank and carb
float bowl vent.

Lots of folks have tried to do without a canister over the years, but
none have posted back about any way to do it successfully....

Yes you can easily disconnect it by removing the tube from the carb
float bowl and the gas tank tube and leave these open to the air. They
cannot be plugged or the vehicle will starve for gas. Then the small
line from the EGR/CTO system can be pulled off the top purge valve and
be plugged.

This in effect vents your carb and gas tank to the open air. They will
puke out an amazing amount of gas fumes on a hot day.

Some basics on it. There is a $2.00 filter on the bottom of the
canister that should be changed with every major tune up or after a mud
pit run. When it plugs up it puts a vacuum on the float bowl and gas
tank which imitates running out of gas really well. I have had to drive
home from the mud pits with my gas cap loose several times because I
plugged the filter. I moved my canister way up by the brake reservoir
to avoid this and put the washer tank down low. Changing the filter for
the first time is a chore to dig it out. The new filter just tucks back
in.

To test the canister for leaks, you start the engine and have it at idle
then you pinch closed the line that runs from the PCV system at the rear
of the carb down to the canister. If the idle changes, the canister
purge valve is bad. If you think the plumbing to the purge valve (the
little round thing on top of the canister) is bad/wrong, then just pull
that little vacuum line off before doing the above pinch test.

If it fails the pinch test, then you need a new canister.

When folks remove the emissions computer and emissions crap for off road
use, there are a couple basic players that still need to be in place for
a good running engine. The PCV system, the air filter flaps that suck
hot air on cold days so the carb doesn't turn into a block of ice and
the gas tank vent or canister. Some engines run better with the EGR in
place too.

The canister basic plumbing has a ported vacuum coming through the CTO
valve and the air filter thermostat down to the EGR and canister purge.
That is the small line to the top of the canister. This makes sure the
canister doesn't turn on unless you are under throttle with a warmed up
cooling system and a warmed up carburetor.

The large lines go to the carb float bowl and the gas tank. The purge
line comes from below that little round disk up to a T fitting in the
PCV line just behind the carb. If you have a solenoid thing there, you
can toss it and just put a T fitting in. The solenoid never did work
right and the factory fix was just a straight T so I have been told.

Here is a good site with most of the plumbing and other things
explained:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

jeepguymike wrote:
>
> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the
> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around
> this following issue:
>
> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator
> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it
> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing.
>
> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about
> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine
> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the
> factory.
>
> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Weber
> OllllllO