Mike Romain

bllsht wrote:
>
> In message <3F37A546.1738D3A8@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>
> >David Harmon wrote:
> >>
> >> On Sun, 10 Aug 2003 12:13:21 -0400 in rec.autos.makers.jeep+******,
> >> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>
> >> >There is 'NO' idle mix adjustment on a stock Carter BBD with a stepper
> >> >motor!
> >>
> >> Actually, that's not true. For documentation, please refer to the
> >> Jeep TSB I am posting separately under the subject:
> >> "BBD Carburetor - Idle Mixture Adjustment TSB"
> >
> >Well, still true.
> >
> >You still have to cut the carb open to set it. A 'stock' carb has the
> >mix screws blocked from the factory.
>
> That's like saying that once you adjust your brakes, they are no longer 'stock'.
>
> Give it up.
>

I have no problems with reading comprehension, unlike how you seem.

I will quote the TSB that was posted:

NOTE: THE IDLE MIXTURE SHOULD ONLY BE PERFORMED IF THE ADJUSTMENT
SCREWS WERE REMOVED DURING CARBURETOR OVERHAUL FOR CLEANING
PURPOSES

Or as it politely doesn't say: If you screwed up and forgot to count
the turns upon disassembly like the other manuals state.

Pay attention now, I'll type it slow even....

It does not say to do this as part of a 'normal' tune up.

It does not say to cut up or leave cut up your carb up so you can do
'field' adjustments.

In fact it pointedly states, Quote:

"10. Install RTV in the idle mixture screw plug holes."

That would effectively turn the carb back into it's 'stock' form with
only the idle speeds and choke rich available as 'field' or 'driveway'
or 'tune up' adjustments.

If it goes out of emissions spec, it needs to be cleaned, not cut up and
dicked with to try and compensate for a blocked tube or passage.

Simple eh?

There, now I hope that wasn't too difficult to understand was it?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

I've noticed you don't seem to like Mike as much as the rest of us.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

bllsht wrote:
>
> I guess you've noticed by now that facts mean nothing to Mike.

Mike Romain

bllsht wrote:
>
> In message <3f49639d.102019177@news.west.earthlink.net>, "David Harmon" wrote:
>
> >On Sun, 10 Aug 2003 12:13:21 -0400 in rec.autos.makers.jeep+******,
> >Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >
> >>There is 'NO' idle mix adjustment on a stock Carter BBD with a stepper
> >>motor!
> >
> >Actually, that's not true. For documentation, please refer to the
> >Jeep TSB I am posting separately under the subject:
> >"BBD Carburetor - Idle Mixture Adjustment TSB"
>
> I guess you've noticed by now that facts mean nothing to Mike.

Man, you 'really' need to actually 'read' what I write, not just guess
at it's meaning....

The above was taken out of context and you know it.

For Sure there is a factory stock adjustment on a freaking carb, manual
or computer controlled! I stated that wayyyy back in this thread.

'Stock' means plugged idle mix tubes as that TSB also indicates.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mike Romain

Hmmm, I have the below message in my sent box and someone quoted it on
the newsgroup, but I can't see it or find it there on my server so I am
going to repost it.

It was sent Sunday, Aug 10th at 12:13 PM.

Mike

---------------------------------------------------------

See, here you go again with all this 'adjustment' BS.

There is 'NO' idle mix adjustment on a stock Carter BBD with a stepper
motor!

You seem to have a mental block on this simple fact and keep insisting
you have to cut up or drill out a carb to get it running right, rather
than cleaning and putting a kit in it to properly fix the problem.

'My' carb has nothing to do with the scenario I outlined, mine is 'not'
stock and I do not have a computer moving the stepper motor.

I will fill in some below just because I am bored...

bllsht wrote:
>
> So tell me. When you adjusted your idle mixture, how did you match the mix to> the D/A timing pulses? >> Oh, you didn't? > Why not?

No functioning computer on mine.

>
> Don't they give you that info in the service manual? > Why not?

It is a 'factory' set that is 'supposed' to be set exactly back as it
was before it was disassembled for cleaning.

The carb kit also comes with replacement 1/4" x 1/4" plugs that are to
be pressed back in after a clean.

>
> Why is it important for the factory settings to match this, but not adjustments made in the field?

There are no 'field' adjustments available on a 'stock' BBD with stepper
motor besides the idle speed and choke richness.

>
> If they should never be moved, why are they adjustable anyway?

For a base or factory setting to have the stepper pins dancing evenly
between step 2 and step 3. In other words to have it 'exactly' in the
middle of that 2-3 step pulse so the rich/lean pulses are timed even
giving a stable emissions mix. (see my original scenario)

Carter just uses the exact same base plate for the regular manual BBD
and the electric BBD. They just block the electric BBD's mix screws
with solid plugs, unlike the tin cap they use on the manual BBD's screws
that can be popped out with a screwdriver for 'field' adjustments.

>
> Why does the factory service manual give you the procedure to remove the plugs, and adjust the mixture, but mentions nothing about D/A timing pulses?

There are two different Carter BBD's, the book has adjustments for the
manual carb mix but for the electric one, it just says, Quote: 'Idle
adjusting needles (part # 54)- turn in until lightly seated, then back
out the number of turns counted on disassembly'. End Quote.

Pretty simple eh?

If the carb has a fresh kit in it and everything is clean, the factory
setting is the only correct one.

To get a messed up one back to factory would require a sniffer in the
tail pipe while you are adjusting it.

>
> There's also adjustments for the main metering circuit, and they don't mention
> D/A pulse timing either. Doesn't it need to match at higher rpm also?

Yup, it does.

And if the factory set on the mix screws is still there, then the 'book'
adjustment on the vacuum piston assembly is correct.

Start messing with the mix screws, and then you need to start messing
with the vacuum piston adjustment to get the right high speed mix to
pass emissions. Been there, done that, on a 'manually' set up carb
only.

>
> Why is that stuff adjustable?

No two carbs or engines are made or adjusted 'exactly' the same. The
factory has to be able to fine tune everything.

And some parts like the base plate are just used on different models to
save design costs. They just modify them slightly like with the solid
plugs on the mix screws instead of the pop off/out caps.

Like they put the sol-vac unit on all the carbs, but only the automatic
or AC equipped vehicles have the set screw in it so it actually
functions.

The 'only' reason to ever take out the plugs on the mix screws on the
base plate for the electric BBD is to disassemble them for proper
cleaning.

>
> This should be good.

I hope so. Maybe I explained it well enough for you to catch on...

Mike


>
> You're just throwing out BS now, to dazzle those who don't know any better.
>
> In message <3F3549A7.B2362A1A@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>
> >LOL!
> >
> >You have no clue how the computer does it's 'thing' and just 'why' the
> >factory setting has to have the mix match the D/A timing pulse of the
> >stepper pins do you?
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >
> >bllsht wrote:
> >>
> >> In message <3F35042A.8F57320C@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >>
> >> >Well sir, I give up.
> >>
> >> Oh, that was too easy! I couldn't help but notice that you didn't address
> >> anything in my last post.
> >> >
> >> >You just want to talk in circles and still haven't addressed my original
> >> >scenario which I say is 100% correct.
> >>
> >> I addressed your original theory. It's wrong, and I told you why. Repeating 'I
> >> am right' doesn't make it so.
> >>
> >> >
> >> >All you want to do is cut open a stock carb to mess with it once it is
> >> >broke.
> >>
> >> I get it now. English is a 2nd language for you, isn't it? Kindly quote where
> >> I said that.
> >>
> >> You have this idea that there's a 'magic' setting that only the factory can get
> >> to. It's just not true. If it were true, they'd tell you to set the mixture
> >> screws at '3.1275' turns out. What they actually tell you is to have the
> >> stepper motor operating in the middle of it's range, and the computer will
> >> handle it from there, because it can, and I've told you how.
> >>
> >> >
> >> >That was not in my original premise on how a mechanically operated
> >> >although computer controlled carb can be slightly rich with a slightly
> >> >blocked idle tube.
> >>
> >> Your premise depends on your theory about what the computer does.
> >> Unfortunately, your theory has no impact on reality. What you 'think' or 'wish'
> >> don't change what 'is'.
> >>
> >> >
> >> >I have a real one track mind here guy, and tossing bllsht at me ain't
> >> >about to change it.
> >>
> >> Yes, I'm aware that facts take a back seat to your desire to be right.
> >>
> >> >
> >> >Now if you knew what the computer sampling rate of all the sensors it
> >> >needs to read before changing anything was and the A/D input lag as well
> >> >as the D/A output lag and maybe what the maximum speed of a stepper
> >> >motor change was then maybe you could convince me that the computer can
> >> >compensate for a mix that 'needs' to be at 3.25 turns or 'steps' out
> >> >because of a blocked tube instead of the even 2.5 turns or an even 2-3
> >> >step pulse it was factory set at.
> >>
> >> Smoke screen. The computer was put in to control fuel mixture and compensate
> >> for changing conditions. That's what it does.
> >>
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >
> >> >bllsht wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> In message <3F33D8A3.665C7744@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> >bllsht wrote:
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> In message <3F327D03.CA7F4D39@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >Not kidding, really....
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >Here is how I see it working. If I am mistaken, I would appreciate the
> >> >> >> >feedback.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >The OP stated he has a 'stock everything' 85.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >I therefore do not assume that the carb has been drilled or cut up to
> >> >> >> >access the idle mix screws.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Well, I took 'stock everything' to mean that it had all the 'stock' equipment on
> >> >> >> it. If he had said it had never been f'd with, then I might have thought the
> >> >> >> plugs *may* be there, but still wouldn't expect it.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >The stepper motor has (for easy numbers) 'say' 5 steps from full rich to
> >> >> >> >full lean.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >The carb if manually set up has 'say' 5 turns on the mix screws from
> >> >> >> >full rich to full lean.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >With a perfectly working system, either the stepper or the mix screws if
> >> >> >> >a manual BBD operate approximately in the middle of the range or at 2.5
> >> >> >> >turns out for the screws or jumping from step 2 to step 3 to get the O2
> >> >> >> >sensor to read correctly with the computer.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >Now we toss in a partially plugged idle tube or something else gummed up
> >> >> >> >forcing a lean to 'some' extent.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >If I am manually setting the mix, I then need to open the mix screws to
> >> >> >> >'say' 3 1/4 turns out to get it stable.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >In comes the stepper motor on the computer BBD. It has a choice of
> >> >> >> >either the 3rd step or the 4th step.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >It tries step 3, nope, too lean. 1/4 turn too lean if manual. It then
> >> >> >> >tries step 4, nope again, too rich. 3/4 a turn if manual too rich.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >It keeps jumping back and forth between step 3 and 4. Every time it
> >> >> >> >hits step 4, it goes rich, a lot more rich than it goes lean when on
> >> >> >> >step 3.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >Bingo, a carb that 'just' fails emissions by being slightly rich.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I think I see the problem here. You might be right if the system worked as you
> >> >> >> think.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I don't know if you've ever watched an O2 sensor's output using a lab scope, but
> >> >> >> the scenario you just described would probably yield a fairly flat looking
> >> >> >> pattern, with the stepper motor switching between 2 steps, trying to find the
> >> >> >> middle. What you actually see is a consistent swing in voltage from about .2v
> >> >> >> to about .8v. That isn't because the computer can't find the middle, it's by
> >> >> >> design. In order to control emissions, the mixture needs to switch between
> >> >> >> slightly rich and slightly lean. When the computer sees the O2 voltage
> >> >> >> approaching .8v, it reverses the direction of the stepper motor to go lean. As
> >> >> >> voltage approaches .2v, it reverses again. The computer's job is to make the O2
> >> >> >> sensor dance.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >So far so good....
> >> >> >
> >> >> >The O2 does go rich lean, rich lean. The computer has ---- to do with
> >> >> >it, it does that when unplugged even. It is the O2 sensor that makes
> >> >> >the computer 'dance'. Or the stepper pins dance...
> >> >>
> >> >> Wrong. The O2 sensor is a tool that the computer uses to monitor mixture
> >> >> changes. The stepper motor is the tool the computer uses to change mixture.
> >> >> The computer changes mixture via the stepper motor and looks at O2 sensor input
> >> >> to see the results. The O2 sensor isn't a smart device. It's the computer that
> >> >> runs the show.
> >> >>
> >> >> Your thinking is just like most untrained people think, but it's wrong.
> >> >>
> >> >> >
> >> >> >This is a compromise to get a good 'average' sampling rate fast enough
> >> >> >to have a stable tailpipe emissions. The stepper motor is a mechanical
> >> >> >device after all and can only physically move so fast. There is a D/A
> >> >> >converter involved here.
> >> >>
> >> >> Whether there is a D/A converter involved or not isn't relevant when you're
> >> >> discussing who's running the show.
> >> >>
> >> >> On new fuel injected vehicles, you still see the O2 sensor switching from rich
> >> >> to lean, and there is no mechanical device involved in changing mixture. It's
> >> >> done by changing the length of time the injector is open. The computer changes
> >> >> the mixture that way because that's what it has been programmed to do.
> >> >>
> >> >> >When we do it manually, we don't need to compromise like the computer
> >> >> >does because of the limited number of 'steps' on the stepper motor, we
> >> >> >can set it exact and pass emissions quite fine.
> >> >>
> >> >> If you could set it exact, there would be no need for a computer. The manual
> >> >> setup is the compromise. It doesn't change with conditions, and you don't get
> >> >> the correct lean/rich switching needed for tighter emission control.
> >> >>
> >> >> >That above scenario is what I am saying and I stick with the thought
> >> >> >that the sampling rate and A/D and D/A converters in the computer with a
> >> >> >mechanical stepper motor on the mix will do exactly as I see it doing,
> >> >> >one 'slightly' rich carb due to a partially blocked tube or something as
> >> >> >I described.
> >> >>
> >> >> And you're still wrong.
> >> >>
> >> >> >Below you are talking about manually trying to make up for a carb defect
> >> >> >which is not applicable to the above scenario with a perfectly stock
> >> >> >carb.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >All bets are off when the factory set of the mix screws has been moved.
> >> >> >Then we are no longer talking 'stock'. Then you either guess and get
> >> >> >tested to see or you have a sniffer up the pipe while 'guessing' to get
> >> >> >it back to factory range on the stepper or fix the carb or kill the
> >> >> >computer and just manually set the mix.
> >> >>
> >> >> If the factory setup was perfect, and should never be moved, why do you think
> >> >> they would put adjustable mixture screws in? The idea of sealing the mixture
> >> >> screws was to keep somebody who didn't know what they were doing from screwing
> >> >> it up. If they were never meant to be moved, it would have been a lot better if
> >> >> they weren't adjustable, don't ya think? They knew that in the real world,
> >> >> adjustments would be necessary. There is no guessing about getting the
> >> >> adjustment where it belongs. In fact, it's a simple procedure, and you don't
> >> >> use a sniffer to do it.
> >> >>
> >> >> Don't feel bad. A lot of folks don't get it.
> >> >>
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Mike
> >> >> >
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> So, if you have an idle tube that's partially plugged, and you adjust idle
> >> >> >> mixture screws to compensate, and go outside the stepper motor's range, yeah,
> >> >> >> it's gonna be too rich. If you go just a little too far with the screws, but
> >> >> >> still in the range of the stepper motor, it will continue to move in and out,
> >> >> >> but will stay closer to it's leanest position.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >I also believe this is one of the main reasons you see the mix screws
> >> >> >> >cut open. Forcing a mix change via the manual mix screws can make the
> >> >> >> >O2 tell the stepper motor to 'see' it as 'say' 2.5 steps exact like it
> >> >> >> >was from the factory so when it samples it is an even 2 step to 3 step
> >> >> >> >pulse which puts the mix back into emissions range.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I believe the reason you see them cut open, is because the guy hackin' on it
> >> >> >> doesn't know how to figure out what's really wrong with the carb. He also
> >> >> >> thinks that if 1/2 turn is good, 2 turns is better.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >This is just fixing the symptoms, that blocked idle tube is still
> >> >> >> >there...
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Agreed.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> But if it's running acceptably, and your main goal is to get your Jeep to pass
> >> >> >> emissions, and the carb's been hacked already, and it's adjusted too rich too,
> >> >> >> giving each screw 1/2 turn lean ain't all that bad.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I want to know where you can pass a smog test with 2% CO! :-)
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >Mike
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >bllsht wrote:
> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> In message <3F315E76.96E87105@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >I don't think the computer is that smart.
> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >I think when it sees a lean it can overcompensate.
> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> I hope you're kidding...
> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> The computer monitors O2 content of the exhaust. It alters the mix to achieve
> >> >> >> >> it's desired O2 level. That's what it's designed to do, and yes, it is that
> >> >> >> >> smart.
> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >The OP was only slightly over on CO.
> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> Right. Too rich. Too much fuel. Not enough O2. That's what I said.
> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >The stepper motor only has so many steps. The proper mix could be a
> >> >> >> >> >half a step leaner than the computer sets it.
> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> Which is why I said the mixture screws are probably too rich. If the stepper
> >> >> >> >> motor has reached it's lean limit, then the mixture screws are set too rich, or
> >> >> >> >> something else has gone wrong in the carb to cause a rich condition. The
> >> >> >> >> computer will not cause it to be too rich.
> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >Mike
> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >bllsht wrote:
> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> In message <3F308C26.20BCB15@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> >You are right, but blocked idle tubes can 'easily' make the mix go out
> >> >> >> >> >> >of the computer controlled stepper motor's pins travel range.
> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> Blocked idle tubes cause a lean condition. The computer will try to correct.
> >> >> >> >> >> If the mix is so lean it's out of the stepper motor's ability to correct the
> >> >> >> >> >> mix, it's still too lean.
> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> In the post I replied to, you said "Too rich can be caused from partially
> >> >> >> >> >> blocked idle tubes." That's not true.
> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >> >They adjust the air flow only, the mix screws are set at factory rich
> >> >> >> >> >> >and plugged off.
> >> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> The idle mixture screws are set correctly when the stepper motor is moving in
> >> >> >> >> >> and out near the middle of it's range.
> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> >When the tubes really crap out, you have to remove the spring from the
> >> >> >> >> >> >idle speed screw in order to get any idle at all. It goes out of
> >> >> >> >> >> >range....
> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> That's because it's so lean you have to open the throttle to keep it running.
> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >> >When I see a carb with the idle speed screw compressed tight, I
> >> >> >> >> >> >immediately suspect partially blocked idle tubes.
> >> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> Yes, because it's too lean and they're trying to keep it running.
> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> >Clean tubes and the mix screw spring is about 5/8" long, plugged tubes
> >> >> >> >> >> >and the spring is compressed or about 3/8" long.
> >> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >> >If you can get at the mix screws, you can force the carb lean with
> >> >> >> >> >> >them, That can pass emissions usually but doesn't address why it is
> >> >> >> >> >> >running rich, just the symptoms.
> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> There aren't many Jeeps with carbs running around that still have sealed mixture
> >> >> >> >> >> screws. By now they've all been cut, drilled or whatever. It's probably too
> >> >> >> >> >> rich because somebody's been f*ing with it and don't know what they're doing.
> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >> >Mike
> >> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >> >bllsht wrote:
> >> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> >> In message <3F2FD37B.CE04B6CC@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >Too rich can be caused from partially blocked idle tubes. The computer
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >will set the stepper motor rich.
> >> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> >> It doesn't work that way. The computer will correct the mixture (lean or rich)
> >> >> >> >> >> >> to achieve the "proper" amount of O2 in the exhaust.
> >> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >See this link:
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >A bad charcoal canister can also cause that, but with a bad canister,
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >the idle will 'usually' surge up and down a little and you will get
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >spits of oil coming into the air filter from the valve cover vent.
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >Mike
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >bllsht wrote:
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> High CO = too rich. Lean out the idle mixture a bit. You didn't fail by much,
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> so it shouldn't take a big adjustment.
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> In message <BB542759.1BE22%nospam@thanksImFull.spam>, "KurtS" wrote:
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >'85 C7 258 - computer in the loop - stock everything
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >Damnit. I should have know better than to take my Jeep in for testing on a
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >rainy day but I did it anyway (it's a bit sluggish in wet weather). So here
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >are my results:
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >HC PPM Idle - 223/300 -- Pass
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >HC PPM 2500 RPM - 103/300 -- Pass
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >CO % idle - 2.10/2.00 -- fail
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >CO % 2500 RPM - 1.58/2.00 -- pass
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >I barely failed CO at idle -- seems all my idle readings are much higher by
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >ratio. I have been doing mostly city driving for a couple months. Would an
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >hour or so on the highway take care of the high CO? Any other hints? I
> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >replaced the EGR and O2 sensor about 3000 miles ago.

bllsht

In message <3F39252E.A7B7B7AF@***.net>, "L.W." wrote:

> I've noticed you don't seem to like Mike as much as the rest of us.

Not the case, really. Mike's a good guy. He's been a lot of help to a lot of
people. He's just not always right. No big deal.

> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>bllsht wrote:
>>
>> I guess you've noticed by now that facts mean nothing to Mike.

Mike Romain

bllsht wrote:
>
<snip>
>
> I believe we're beating a dead horse.

Yup, I agree.

Mike

>
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's