On Sun, 15 Oct 2006 22:18:58 UTC "c" <c@me.org> wrote:

>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:Y_WdnSgAI8E78K_YnZ2dnUVZ_tudnZ2d@ez2.net...
> >
> > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> > news:yQhWg.1645$IO2.1217@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> >> If you're mainly worried about the toe adjustment, yes you can do it. We
> >> did it all the time stock car racing, and you can get it close enough
> >> until you get it to an alignment shop.
> >>
> >> Find a level surface. Jack up the front and use a piece of chalk to
> >> scribe a line on the outside diameter of the tire. The easiest way to do
> >> this is to hold the chalk with your hand braced against something solid,
> >> such as the fender. Spin the tire slowly until the chalk line is all the
> >> way around the tire. Do this on each side.
> >>
> >> Now let the vehicle down and settle the springs by pushing on each corner
> >> of the bumpers a couple times. It will require 2 people to do the toe
> >> measurement. Use carpenter squares, or something similar, and bring the
> >> edge of the square up to the chalk line at the height of the spindle and
> >> measure the distance between the squares. You have to do this on the
> >> front and back of the tire. Subtract the 2 measurements and you have your
> >> toe setting. A larger measurement in the front means the tires are toed
> >> out.
> >>
> >> Chris
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > I like your method, except the jacking up part. The tires have seams on
> > them from the tire mold machine, I measure from the seam and adjust as
> > needed.
> >
> >
>
> Jeff, I think you misunderstood the method a little bit. Jacking up the
> vehicle is merely to mark the tire. You're right, it isn't necessary to use
> the marking method. You can use the tire seam. We normally marked the tires
> for the stock cars because the tire seam didn't last long on racing tires
> because they were so soft. Either method will work just fine though.

I think the marking method is the best way - I don' even trust the
mold flash that much. I may be a tad paranoid (some call it ---- <g>)
but I go one step further simply because of possible warped wheels: I
use a piece of tape on the tire to get an easy to see mark and measure
between tow points at either the front or the rear of the wheel. I
mark the point where I measured then rotate the tires as close to 180
degrees as I can and still get a straight-line measurement. I then
measure the same points on the other side of the rotation. May be
more effort, but it removes any doubt about the accuracy of the
measurement. As for how it works out, I managed to cut two tires (in
a parking lot, of all places!) and got a 50% treadwear adjustment on
the BFG AT KOs with right at 50k miles on them.

--
Will Honea

 

On Sun, 15 Oct 2006 22:18:58 UTC "c" <c@me.org> wrote:

>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:Y_WdnSgAI8E78K_YnZ2dnUVZ_tudnZ2d@ez2.net...
> >
> > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> > news:yQhWg.1645$IO2.1217@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> >> If you're mainly worried about the toe adjustment, yes you can do it. We
> >> did it all the time stock car racing, and you can get it close enough
> >> until you get it to an alignment shop.
> >>
> >> Find a level surface. Jack up the front and use a piece of chalk to
> >> scribe a line on the outside diameter of the tire. The easiest way to do
> >> this is to hold the chalk with your hand braced against something solid,
> >> such as the fender. Spin the tire slowly until the chalk line is all the
> >> way around the tire. Do this on each side.
> >>
> >> Now let the vehicle down and settle the springs by pushing on each corner
> >> of the bumpers a couple times. It will require 2 people to do the toe
> >> measurement. Use carpenter squares, or something similar, and bring the
> >> edge of the square up to the chalk line at the height of the spindle and
> >> measure the distance between the squares. You have to do this on the
> >> front and back of the tire. Subtract the 2 measurements and you have your
> >> toe setting. A larger measurement in the front means the tires are toed
> >> out.
> >>
> >> Chris
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > I like your method, except the jacking up part. The tires have seams on
> > them from the tire mold machine, I measure from the seam and adjust as
> > needed.
> >
> >
>
> Jeff, I think you misunderstood the method a little bit. Jacking up the
> vehicle is merely to mark the tire. You're right, it isn't necessary to use
> the marking method. You can use the tire seam. We normally marked the tires
> for the stock cars because the tire seam didn't last long on racing tires
> because they were so soft. Either method will work just fine though.

I think the marking method is the best way - I don' even trust the
mold flash that much. I may be a tad paranoid (some call it ---- <g>)
but I go one step further simply because of possible warped wheels: I
use a piece of tape on the tire to get an easy to see mark and measure
between tow points at either the front or the rear of the wheel. I
mark the point where I measured then rotate the tires as close to 180
degrees as I can and still get a straight-line measurement. I then
measure the same points on the other side of the rotation. May be
more effort, but it removes any doubt about the accuracy of the
measurement. As for how it works out, I managed to cut two tires (in
a parking lot, of all places!) and got a 50% treadwear adjustment on
the BFG AT KOs with right at 50k miles on them.

--
Will Honea

 

I counted to 21 once and almost got arrested for indecent exposure.

"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:a55c3$4529c627$422afc51$25524@FUSE.NET...
>I last used Trig in the early 70s...... Now if I want to count past eleven
>I have to take off my shoes.
>
> XJ 27.7" x 0.00192 x 2 = 0.106368 ~ 1/9" ?
> WJ 29.3" x 0.00192 x 2 = 0.112512 ~ 1/9"
> 31s = 0.11904 ~ 1/8"
> 33s = 0.12672 ~1/8"
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:d9jWg.1799$IO2.414@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> Oops, my bad, the post I referred to is in degrees, but that can be
>> converted using some simple trig and your tire size. Just multiply the
>> tangent of the toe in angle times your tire diameter and you will get the
>> toe in per side. Multiply that times 2 to get total toe in. the tangent
>> of
>> .11 is .00192 so the formula would be:
>>
>> tire dia. * .00192 * 2 for total toe in
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>> news:B0jWg.1782$IO2.1131@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> Most vehicles will be between 0 and 1/8" toe in, and according to this,
>>> yours falls in that category as well.
>>>
>>> http://lists.off-road.com/pipermail/...ay/027708.html
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>>
>>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>>> news:47be1$4529b043$422afc51$18548@FUSE.NET...
>>>> What is the toe setting for a '96 XJ?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>>> news:yQhWg.1645$IO2.1217@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>>>> If you're mainly worried about the toe adjustment, yes you can do it.
>>>>> We did it all the time stock car racing, and you can get it close
>>>>> enough until you get it to an alignment shop.
>>>>>
>>>>> Find a level surface. Jack up the front and use a piece of chalk to
>>>>> scribe a line on the outside diameter of the tire. The easiest way to
>>>>> do this is to hold the chalk with your hand braced against something
>>>>> solid, such as the fender. Spin the tire slowly until the chalk line
>>>>> is all the way around the tire. Do this on each side.
>>>>>
>>>>> Now let the vehicle down and settle the springs by pushing on each
>>>>> corner of the bumpers a couple times. It will require 2 people to do
>>>>> the toe measurement. Use carpenter squares, or something similar, and
>>>>> bring the edge of the square up to the chalk line at the height of the
>>>>> spindle and measure the distance between the squares. You have to do
>>>>> this on the front and back of the tire. Subtract the 2 measurements
>>>>> and you have your toe setting. A larger measurement in the front means
>>>>> the tires are toed out.
>>>>>
>>>>> Chris
>>>>>
>>>>> <lynnhowlyn@aol.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:1160355627.297212.301490@m73g2000cwd.googlegr oups.com...
>>>>>> Just installed a replacement steering gear box on my 83 CJ7 - and in
>>>>>> doing so I couldn't get the tie rod end off the pitman arm, so I
>>>>>> basically unscrewed it from the rest of the tie rod - then installed
>>>>>> the pitman arm/tie rod end onto the replacement gearbox and screwed
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> tie rod end back onto the tie rod using the adjustment sleeve.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Clearly the steering alignment is most likely NOT correct (yes - I
>>>>>> should have measured a bit before I diassembled - but hindsite is
>>>>>> 20-20).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Due to some scheduling issues and my personal travel schedule, I
>>>>>> can't
>>>>>> get into my friendly neighborhood alignment shop in the near term
>>>>>> future, but am planning an off-rod weekend event in a couple weeks.
>>>>>> I'll be trailering the CJ to the event - but would like to get the
>>>>>> steering alignment into the "ballpark" if possible before the event.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Running 33 inch tires, 2 1/2 in spring lift, 1/2 inch "shackle lift"
>>>>>> and it's got power steering.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any suggestions, links to a "do-it-myself" page for DIY steering
>>>>>> alignment? Seems like there's a way to measure across the tire treat
>>>>>> front and rear and then adjust accordingly.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

 

I counted to 21 once and almost got arrested for indecent exposure.

"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:a55c3$4529c627$422afc51$25524@FUSE.NET...
>I last used Trig in the early 70s...... Now if I want to count past eleven
>I have to take off my shoes.
>
> XJ 27.7" x 0.00192 x 2 = 0.106368 ~ 1/9" ?
> WJ 29.3" x 0.00192 x 2 = 0.112512 ~ 1/9"
> 31s = 0.11904 ~ 1/8"
> 33s = 0.12672 ~1/8"
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:d9jWg.1799$IO2.414@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> Oops, my bad, the post I referred to is in degrees, but that can be
>> converted using some simple trig and your tire size. Just multiply the
>> tangent of the toe in angle times your tire diameter and you will get the
>> toe in per side. Multiply that times 2 to get total toe in. the tangent
>> of
>> .11 is .00192 so the formula would be:
>>
>> tire dia. * .00192 * 2 for total toe in
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>> news:B0jWg.1782$IO2.1131@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> Most vehicles will be between 0 and 1/8" toe in, and according to this,
>>> yours falls in that category as well.
>>>
>>> http://lists.off-road.com/pipermail/...ay/027708.html
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>>
>>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>>> news:47be1$4529b043$422afc51$18548@FUSE.NET...
>>>> What is the toe setting for a '96 XJ?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>>> news:yQhWg.1645$IO2.1217@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>>>> If you're mainly worried about the toe adjustment, yes you can do it.
>>>>> We did it all the time stock car racing, and you can get it close
>>>>> enough until you get it to an alignment shop.
>>>>>
>>>>> Find a level surface. Jack up the front and use a piece of chalk to
>>>>> scribe a line on the outside diameter of the tire. The easiest way to
>>>>> do this is to hold the chalk with your hand braced against something
>>>>> solid, such as the fender. Spin the tire slowly until the chalk line
>>>>> is all the way around the tire. Do this on each side.
>>>>>
>>>>> Now let the vehicle down and settle the springs by pushing on each
>>>>> corner of the bumpers a couple times. It will require 2 people to do
>>>>> the toe measurement. Use carpenter squares, or something similar, and
>>>>> bring the edge of the square up to the chalk line at the height of the
>>>>> spindle and measure the distance between the squares. You have to do
>>>>> this on the front and back of the tire. Subtract the 2 measurements
>>>>> and you have your toe setting. A larger measurement in the front means
>>>>> the tires are toed out.
>>>>>
>>>>> Chris
>>>>>
>>>>> <lynnhowlyn@aol.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:1160355627.297212.301490@m73g2000cwd.googlegr oups.com...
>>>>>> Just installed a replacement steering gear box on my 83 CJ7 - and in
>>>>>> doing so I couldn't get the tie rod end off the pitman arm, so I
>>>>>> basically unscrewed it from the rest of the tie rod - then installed
>>>>>> the pitman arm/tie rod end onto the replacement gearbox and screwed
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> tie rod end back onto the tie rod using the adjustment sleeve.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Clearly the steering alignment is most likely NOT correct (yes - I
>>>>>> should have measured a bit before I diassembled - but hindsite is
>>>>>> 20-20).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Due to some scheduling issues and my personal travel schedule, I
>>>>>> can't
>>>>>> get into my friendly neighborhood alignment shop in the near term
>>>>>> future, but am planning an off-rod weekend event in a couple weeks.
>>>>>> I'll be trailering the CJ to the event - but would like to get the
>>>>>> steering alignment into the "ballpark" if possible before the event.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Running 33 inch tires, 2 1/2 in spring lift, 1/2 inch "shackle lift"
>>>>>> and it's got power steering.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any suggestions, links to a "do-it-myself" page for DIY steering
>>>>>> alignment? Seems like there's a way to measure across the tire treat
>>>>>> front and rear and then adjust accordingly.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

 

I counted to 21 once and almost got arrested for indecent exposure.

"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:a55c3$4529c627$422afc51$25524@FUSE.NET...
>I last used Trig in the early 70s...... Now if I want to count past eleven
>I have to take off my shoes.
>
> XJ 27.7" x 0.00192 x 2 = 0.106368 ~ 1/9" ?
> WJ 29.3" x 0.00192 x 2 = 0.112512 ~ 1/9"
> 31s = 0.11904 ~ 1/8"
> 33s = 0.12672 ~1/8"
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:d9jWg.1799$IO2.414@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> Oops, my bad, the post I referred to is in degrees, but that can be
>> converted using some simple trig and your tire size. Just multiply the
>> tangent of the toe in angle times your tire diameter and you will get the
>> toe in per side. Multiply that times 2 to get total toe in. the tangent
>> of
>> .11 is .00192 so the formula would be:
>>
>> tire dia. * .00192 * 2 for total toe in
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>> news:B0jWg.1782$IO2.1131@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> Most vehicles will be between 0 and 1/8" toe in, and according to this,
>>> yours falls in that category as well.
>>>
>>> http://lists.off-road.com/pipermail/...ay/027708.html
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>>
>>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>>> news:47be1$4529b043$422afc51$18548@FUSE.NET...
>>>> What is the toe setting for a '96 XJ?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>>> news:yQhWg.1645$IO2.1217@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>>>> If you're mainly worried about the toe adjustment, yes you can do it.
>>>>> We did it all the time stock car racing, and you can get it close
>>>>> enough until you get it to an alignment shop.
>>>>>
>>>>> Find a level surface. Jack up the front and use a piece of chalk to
>>>>> scribe a line on the outside diameter of the tire. The easiest way to
>>>>> do this is to hold the chalk with your hand braced against something
>>>>> solid, such as the fender. Spin the tire slowly until the chalk line
>>>>> is all the way around the tire. Do this on each side.
>>>>>
>>>>> Now let the vehicle down and settle the springs by pushing on each
>>>>> corner of the bumpers a couple times. It will require 2 people to do
>>>>> the toe measurement. Use carpenter squares, or something similar, and
>>>>> bring the edge of the square up to the chalk line at the height of the
>>>>> spindle and measure the distance between the squares. You have to do
>>>>> this on the front and back of the tire. Subtract the 2 measurements
>>>>> and you have your toe setting. A larger measurement in the front means
>>>>> the tires are toed out.
>>>>>
>>>>> Chris
>>>>>
>>>>> <lynnhowlyn@aol.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:1160355627.297212.301490@m73g2000cwd.googlegr oups.com...
>>>>>> Just installed a replacement steering gear box on my 83 CJ7 - and in
>>>>>> doing so I couldn't get the tie rod end off the pitman arm, so I
>>>>>> basically unscrewed it from the rest of the tie rod - then installed
>>>>>> the pitman arm/tie rod end onto the replacement gearbox and screwed
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> tie rod end back onto the tie rod using the adjustment sleeve.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Clearly the steering alignment is most likely NOT correct (yes - I
>>>>>> should have measured a bit before I diassembled - but hindsite is
>>>>>> 20-20).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Due to some scheduling issues and my personal travel schedule, I
>>>>>> can't
>>>>>> get into my friendly neighborhood alignment shop in the near term
>>>>>> future, but am planning an off-rod weekend event in a couple weeks.
>>>>>> I'll be trailering the CJ to the event - but would like to get the
>>>>>> steering alignment into the "ballpark" if possible before the event.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Running 33 inch tires, 2 1/2 in spring lift, 1/2 inch "shackle lift"
>>>>>> and it's got power steering.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any suggestions, links to a "do-it-myself" page for DIY steering
>>>>>> alignment? Seems like there's a way to measure across the tire treat
>>>>>> front and rear and then adjust accordingly.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

 

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-jkHskx5SFt9W@anon.none.net...
> On Sun, 15 Oct 2006 22:18:58 UTC "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>
>>
>> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:Y_WdnSgAI8E78K_YnZ2dnUVZ_tudnZ2d@ez2.net...
>> >
>> > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>> > news:yQhWg.1645$IO2.1217@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> >> If you're mainly worried about the toe adjustment, yes you can do it.
>> >> We
>> >> did it all the time stock car racing, and you can get it close enough
>> >> until you get it to an alignment shop.
>> >>
>> >> Find a level surface. Jack up the front and use a piece of chalk to
>> >> scribe a line on the outside diameter of the tire. The easiest way to
>> >> do
>> >> this is to hold the chalk with your hand braced against something
>> >> solid,
>> >> such as the fender. Spin the tire slowly until the chalk line is all
>> >> the
>> >> way around the tire. Do this on each side.
>> >>
>> >> Now let the vehicle down and settle the springs by pushing on each
>> >> corner
>> >> of the bumpers a couple times. It will require 2 people to do the toe
>> >> measurement. Use carpenter squares, or something similar, and bring
>> >> the
>> >> edge of the square up to the chalk line at the height of the spindle
>> >> and
>> >> measure the distance between the squares. You have to do this on the
>> >> front and back of the tire. Subtract the 2 measurements and you have
>> >> your
>> >> toe setting. A larger measurement in the front means the tires are
>> >> toed
>> >> out.
>> >>
>> >> Chris
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > I like your method, except the jacking up part. The tires have seams on
>> > them from the tire mold machine, I measure from the seam and adjust as
>> > needed.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Jeff, I think you misunderstood the method a little bit. Jacking up the
>> vehicle is merely to mark the tire. You're right, it isn't necessary to
>> use
>> the marking method. You can use the tire seam. We normally marked the
>> tires
>> for the stock cars because the tire seam didn't last long on racing tires
>> because they were so soft. Either method will work just fine though.
>
> I think the marking method is the best way - I don' even trust the
> mold flash that much. I may be a tad paranoid (some call it ---- <g>)
> but I go one step further simply because of possible warped wheels: I
> use a piece of tape on the tire to get an easy to see mark and measure
> between tow points at either the front or the rear of the wheel. I
> mark the point where I measured then rotate the tires as close to 180
> degrees as I can and still get a straight-line measurement. I then
> measure the same points on the other side of the rotation. May be
> more effort, but it removes any doubt about the accuracy of the
> measurement. As for how it works out, I managed to cut two tires (in
> a parking lot, of all places!) and got a 50% treadwear adjustment on
> the BFG AT KOs with right at 50k miles on them.
>


I trust the mold mark much more than I trust a line that I might draw.

I have four tires on my CJ5 that are worn evenly and without rotation in
many years.

 

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-jkHskx5SFt9W@anon.none.net...
> On Sun, 15 Oct 2006 22:18:58 UTC "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>
>>
>> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:Y_WdnSgAI8E78K_YnZ2dnUVZ_tudnZ2d@ez2.net...
>> >
>> > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>> > news:yQhWg.1645$IO2.1217@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> >> If you're mainly worried about the toe adjustment, yes you can do it.
>> >> We
>> >> did it all the time stock car racing, and you can get it close enough
>> >> until you get it to an alignment shop.
>> >>
>> >> Find a level surface. Jack up the front and use a piece of chalk to
>> >> scribe a line on the outside diameter of the tire. The easiest way to
>> >> do
>> >> this is to hold the chalk with your hand braced against something
>> >> solid,
>> >> such as the fender. Spin the tire slowly until the chalk line is all
>> >> the
>> >> way around the tire. Do this on each side.
>> >>
>> >> Now let the vehicle down and settle the springs by pushing on each
>> >> corner
>> >> of the bumpers a couple times. It will require 2 people to do the toe
>> >> measurement. Use carpenter squares, or something similar, and bring
>> >> the
>> >> edge of the square up to the chalk line at the height of the spindle
>> >> and
>> >> measure the distance between the squares. You have to do this on the
>> >> front and back of the tire. Subtract the 2 measurements and you have
>> >> your
>> >> toe setting. A larger measurement in the front means the tires are
>> >> toed
>> >> out.
>> >>
>> >> Chris
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > I like your method, except the jacking up part. The tires have seams on
>> > them from the tire mold machine, I measure from the seam and adjust as
>> > needed.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Jeff, I think you misunderstood the method a little bit. Jacking up the
>> vehicle is merely to mark the tire. You're right, it isn't necessary to
>> use
>> the marking method. You can use the tire seam. We normally marked the
>> tires
>> for the stock cars because the tire seam didn't last long on racing tires
>> because they were so soft. Either method will work just fine though.
>
> I think the marking method is the best way - I don' even trust the
> mold flash that much. I may be a tad paranoid (some call it ---- <g>)
> but I go one step further simply because of possible warped wheels: I
> use a piece of tape on the tire to get an easy to see mark and measure
> between tow points at either the front or the rear of the wheel. I
> mark the point where I measured then rotate the tires as close to 180
> degrees as I can and still get a straight-line measurement. I then
> measure the same points on the other side of the rotation. May be
> more effort, but it removes any doubt about the accuracy of the
> measurement. As for how it works out, I managed to cut two tires (in
> a parking lot, of all places!) and got a 50% treadwear adjustment on
> the BFG AT KOs with right at 50k miles on them.
>


I trust the mold mark much more than I trust a line that I might draw.

I have four tires on my CJ5 that are worn evenly and without rotation in
many years.

 

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-jkHskx5SFt9W@anon.none.net...
> On Sun, 15 Oct 2006 22:18:58 UTC "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>
>>
>> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:Y_WdnSgAI8E78K_YnZ2dnUVZ_tudnZ2d@ez2.net...
>> >
>> > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>> > news:yQhWg.1645$IO2.1217@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> >> If you're mainly worried about the toe adjustment, yes you can do it.
>> >> We
>> >> did it all the time stock car racing, and you can get it close enough
>> >> until you get it to an alignment shop.
>> >>
>> >> Find a level surface. Jack up the front and use a piece of chalk to
>> >> scribe a line on the outside diameter of the tire. The easiest way to
>> >> do
>> >> this is to hold the chalk with your hand braced against something
>> >> solid,
>> >> such as the fender. Spin the tire slowly until the chalk line is all
>> >> the
>> >> way around the tire. Do this on each side.
>> >>
>> >> Now let the vehicle down and settle the springs by pushing on each
>> >> corner
>> >> of the bumpers a couple times. It will require 2 people to do the toe
>> >> measurement. Use carpenter squares, or something similar, and bring
>> >> the
>> >> edge of the square up to the chalk line at the height of the spindle
>> >> and
>> >> measure the distance between the squares. You have to do this on the
>> >> front and back of the tire. Subtract the 2 measurements and you have
>> >> your
>> >> toe setting. A larger measurement in the front means the tires are
>> >> toed
>> >> out.
>> >>
>> >> Chris
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > I like your method, except the jacking up part. The tires have seams on
>> > them from the tire mold machine, I measure from the seam and adjust as
>> > needed.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Jeff, I think you misunderstood the method a little bit. Jacking up the
>> vehicle is merely to mark the tire. You're right, it isn't necessary to
>> use
>> the marking method. You can use the tire seam. We normally marked the
>> tires
>> for the stock cars because the tire seam didn't last long on racing tires
>> because they were so soft. Either method will work just fine though.
>
> I think the marking method is the best way - I don' even trust the
> mold flash that much. I may be a tad paranoid (some call it ---- <g>)
> but I go one step further simply because of possible warped wheels: I
> use a piece of tape on the tire to get an easy to see mark and measure
> between tow points at either the front or the rear of the wheel. I
> mark the point where I measured then rotate the tires as close to 180
> degrees as I can and still get a straight-line measurement. I then
> measure the same points on the other side of the rotation. May be
> more effort, but it removes any doubt about the accuracy of the
> measurement. As for how it works out, I managed to cut two tires (in
> a parking lot, of all places!) and got a 50% treadwear adjustment on
> the BFG AT KOs with right at 50k miles on them.
>


I trust the mold mark much more than I trust a line that I might draw.

I have four tires on my CJ5 that are worn evenly and without rotation in
many years.