CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine
shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
this:
http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
you'll like it... :-)
Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
altitude trails whithout a burp.
--
Rich Harris
1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R,
33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver
shackles, and a couple more fun tricks.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d08961$0$21646$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> If you are still running stock, there is a wire you ground for high
> altitude mix control. It comes out of the loom near the dipstick.
>
> I personally can't imagine me 'trusting' gobs of glue to hold my coolant
> inside my engine like you have to do on the 4.0 head. The water passages
> in the rear don't match up and overhang the block so all these holes have
> to be gobbed up with glue or something....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Highcountry wrote:
>> I wasn't aware that the 4.0 head was an improvement, what did they
>> change? I definitely don't want to go the V8 route, even if I did it
>> would have to be an AMC. I had a new CJ in 1976 with the 304
>> completely stock and it was TOO powerful. Any time you punched the
>> throttle in 1st gear you had both rear tires spinning instantly! I
>> am more into gobs of low end slow torque and even carbureted my 258 is
>> great at that. It has 3.31 gears, Manual Transmission and 30"
>> tires. On level roads I can have it Idling in High gear and apply
>> full throttle without any jerking or pinging, it just begins
>> accelerating and builds speed.
>>
>> The major reason I would like the Injection on my 258 is that I plan
>> on taking it to the Rockies and spend some time at 10,000 to 12,000
>> feet which tends to cause an over rich mixture in a carburetor set up
>> for 300 feet like mine! I doubt I would need to change heads, since
>> my engine runs perfectly.
>>
>> Thank you so much for offering to help, and I WILL take you up on it
>> when the time comes.
>>
>> Thanks, Bruce
>>
shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
this:
http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
you'll like it... :-)
Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
altitude trails whithout a burp.
--
Rich Harris
1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R,
33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver
shackles, and a couple more fun tricks.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d08961$0$21646$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> If you are still running stock, there is a wire you ground for high
> altitude mix control. It comes out of the loom near the dipstick.
>
> I personally can't imagine me 'trusting' gobs of glue to hold my coolant
> inside my engine like you have to do on the 4.0 head. The water passages
> in the rear don't match up and overhang the block so all these holes have
> to be gobbed up with glue or something....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Highcountry wrote:
>> I wasn't aware that the 4.0 head was an improvement, what did they
>> change? I definitely don't want to go the V8 route, even if I did it
>> would have to be an AMC. I had a new CJ in 1976 with the 304
>> completely stock and it was TOO powerful. Any time you punched the
>> throttle in 1st gear you had both rear tires spinning instantly! I
>> am more into gobs of low end slow torque and even carbureted my 258 is
>> great at that. It has 3.31 gears, Manual Transmission and 30"
>> tires. On level roads I can have it Idling in High gear and apply
>> full throttle without any jerking or pinging, it just begins
>> accelerating and builds speed.
>>
>> The major reason I would like the Injection on my 258 is that I plan
>> on taking it to the Rockies and spend some time at 10,000 to 12,000
>> feet which tends to cause an over rich mixture in a carburetor set up
>> for 300 feet like mine! I doubt I would need to change heads, since
>> my engine runs perfectly.
>>
>> Thank you so much for offering to help, and I WILL take you up on it
>> when the time comes.
>>
>> Thanks, Bruce
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine
shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
this:
http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
you'll like it... :-)
Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
altitude trails whithout a burp.
--
Rich Harris
1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R,
33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver
shackles, and a couple more fun tricks.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d08961$0$21646$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> If you are still running stock, there is a wire you ground for high
> altitude mix control. It comes out of the loom near the dipstick.
>
> I personally can't imagine me 'trusting' gobs of glue to hold my coolant
> inside my engine like you have to do on the 4.0 head. The water passages
> in the rear don't match up and overhang the block so all these holes have
> to be gobbed up with glue or something....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Highcountry wrote:
>> I wasn't aware that the 4.0 head was an improvement, what did they
>> change? I definitely don't want to go the V8 route, even if I did it
>> would have to be an AMC. I had a new CJ in 1976 with the 304
>> completely stock and it was TOO powerful. Any time you punched the
>> throttle in 1st gear you had both rear tires spinning instantly! I
>> am more into gobs of low end slow torque and even carbureted my 258 is
>> great at that. It has 3.31 gears, Manual Transmission and 30"
>> tires. On level roads I can have it Idling in High gear and apply
>> full throttle without any jerking or pinging, it just begins
>> accelerating and builds speed.
>>
>> The major reason I would like the Injection on my 258 is that I plan
>> on taking it to the Rockies and spend some time at 10,000 to 12,000
>> feet which tends to cause an over rich mixture in a carburetor set up
>> for 300 feet like mine! I doubt I would need to change heads, since
>> my engine runs perfectly.
>>
>> Thank you so much for offering to help, and I WILL take you up on it
>> when the time comes.
>>
>> Thanks, Bruce
>>
shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
this:
http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
you'll like it... :-)
Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
altitude trails whithout a burp.
--
Rich Harris
1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R,
33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver
shackles, and a couple more fun tricks.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d08961$0$21646$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> If you are still running stock, there is a wire you ground for high
> altitude mix control. It comes out of the loom near the dipstick.
>
> I personally can't imagine me 'trusting' gobs of glue to hold my coolant
> inside my engine like you have to do on the 4.0 head. The water passages
> in the rear don't match up and overhang the block so all these holes have
> to be gobbed up with glue or something....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Highcountry wrote:
>> I wasn't aware that the 4.0 head was an improvement, what did they
>> change? I definitely don't want to go the V8 route, even if I did it
>> would have to be an AMC. I had a new CJ in 1976 with the 304
>> completely stock and it was TOO powerful. Any time you punched the
>> throttle in 1st gear you had both rear tires spinning instantly! I
>> am more into gobs of low end slow torque and even carbureted my 258 is
>> great at that. It has 3.31 gears, Manual Transmission and 30"
>> tires. On level roads I can have it Idling in High gear and apply
>> full throttle without any jerking or pinging, it just begins
>> accelerating and builds speed.
>>
>> The major reason I would like the Injection on my 258 is that I plan
>> on taking it to the Rockies and spend some time at 10,000 to 12,000
>> feet which tends to cause an over rich mixture in a carburetor set up
>> for 300 feet like mine! I doubt I would need to change heads, since
>> my engine runs perfectly.
>>
>> Thank you so much for offering to help, and I WILL take you up on it
>> when the time comes.
>>
>> Thanks, Bruce
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine
shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
this:
http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
you'll like it... :-)
Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
altitude trails whithout a burp.
--
Rich Harris
1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R,
33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver
shackles, and a couple more fun tricks.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d08961$0$21646$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> If you are still running stock, there is a wire you ground for high
> altitude mix control. It comes out of the loom near the dipstick.
>
> I personally can't imagine me 'trusting' gobs of glue to hold my coolant
> inside my engine like you have to do on the 4.0 head. The water passages
> in the rear don't match up and overhang the block so all these holes have
> to be gobbed up with glue or something....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Highcountry wrote:
>> I wasn't aware that the 4.0 head was an improvement, what did they
>> change? I definitely don't want to go the V8 route, even if I did it
>> would have to be an AMC. I had a new CJ in 1976 with the 304
>> completely stock and it was TOO powerful. Any time you punched the
>> throttle in 1st gear you had both rear tires spinning instantly! I
>> am more into gobs of low end slow torque and even carbureted my 258 is
>> great at that. It has 3.31 gears, Manual Transmission and 30"
>> tires. On level roads I can have it Idling in High gear and apply
>> full throttle without any jerking or pinging, it just begins
>> accelerating and builds speed.
>>
>> The major reason I would like the Injection on my 258 is that I plan
>> on taking it to the Rockies and spend some time at 10,000 to 12,000
>> feet which tends to cause an over rich mixture in a carburetor set up
>> for 300 feet like mine! I doubt I would need to change heads, since
>> my engine runs perfectly.
>>
>> Thank you so much for offering to help, and I WILL take you up on it
>> when the time comes.
>>
>> Thanks, Bruce
>>
shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
this:
http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
you'll like it... :-)
Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
altitude trails whithout a burp.
--
Rich Harris
1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R,
33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver
shackles, and a couple more fun tricks.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d08961$0$21646$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> If you are still running stock, there is a wire you ground for high
> altitude mix control. It comes out of the loom near the dipstick.
>
> I personally can't imagine me 'trusting' gobs of glue to hold my coolant
> inside my engine like you have to do on the 4.0 head. The water passages
> in the rear don't match up and overhang the block so all these holes have
> to be gobbed up with glue or something....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Highcountry wrote:
>> I wasn't aware that the 4.0 head was an improvement, what did they
>> change? I definitely don't want to go the V8 route, even if I did it
>> would have to be an AMC. I had a new CJ in 1976 with the 304
>> completely stock and it was TOO powerful. Any time you punched the
>> throttle in 1st gear you had both rear tires spinning instantly! I
>> am more into gobs of low end slow torque and even carbureted my 258 is
>> great at that. It has 3.31 gears, Manual Transmission and 30"
>> tires. On level roads I can have it Idling in High gear and apply
>> full throttle without any jerking or pinging, it just begins
>> accelerating and builds speed.
>>
>> The major reason I would like the Injection on my 258 is that I plan
>> on taking it to the Rockies and spend some time at 10,000 to 12,000
>> feet which tends to cause an over rich mixture in a carburetor set up
>> for 300 feet like mine! I doubt I would need to change heads, since
>> my engine runs perfectly.
>>
>> Thank you so much for offering to help, and I WILL take you up on it
>> when the time comes.
>>
>> Thanks, Bruce
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine
shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
this:
http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
you'll like it... :-)
Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
altitude trails whithout a burp.
--
Rich Harris
1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R,
33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver
shackles, and a couple more fun tricks.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d08961$0$21646$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> If you are still running stock, there is a wire you ground for high
> altitude mix control. It comes out of the loom near the dipstick.
>
> I personally can't imagine me 'trusting' gobs of glue to hold my coolant
> inside my engine like you have to do on the 4.0 head. The water passages
> in the rear don't match up and overhang the block so all these holes have
> to be gobbed up with glue or something....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Highcountry wrote:
>> I wasn't aware that the 4.0 head was an improvement, what did they
>> change? I definitely don't want to go the V8 route, even if I did it
>> would have to be an AMC. I had a new CJ in 1976 with the 304
>> completely stock and it was TOO powerful. Any time you punched the
>> throttle in 1st gear you had both rear tires spinning instantly! I
>> am more into gobs of low end slow torque and even carbureted my 258 is
>> great at that. It has 3.31 gears, Manual Transmission and 30"
>> tires. On level roads I can have it Idling in High gear and apply
>> full throttle without any jerking or pinging, it just begins
>> accelerating and builds speed.
>>
>> The major reason I would like the Injection on my 258 is that I plan
>> on taking it to the Rockies and spend some time at 10,000 to 12,000
>> feet which tends to cause an over rich mixture in a carburetor set up
>> for 300 feet like mine! I doubt I would need to change heads, since
>> my engine runs perfectly.
>>
>> Thank you so much for offering to help, and I WILL take you up on it
>> when the time comes.
>>
>> Thanks, Bruce
>>
shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
this:
http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
you'll like it... :-)
Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
altitude trails whithout a burp.
--
Rich Harris
1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R,
33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver
shackles, and a couple more fun tricks.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d08961$0$21646$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> If you are still running stock, there is a wire you ground for high
> altitude mix control. It comes out of the loom near the dipstick.
>
> I personally can't imagine me 'trusting' gobs of glue to hold my coolant
> inside my engine like you have to do on the 4.0 head. The water passages
> in the rear don't match up and overhang the block so all these holes have
> to be gobbed up with glue or something....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Highcountry wrote:
>> I wasn't aware that the 4.0 head was an improvement, what did they
>> change? I definitely don't want to go the V8 route, even if I did it
>> would have to be an AMC. I had a new CJ in 1976 with the 304
>> completely stock and it was TOO powerful. Any time you punched the
>> throttle in 1st gear you had both rear tires spinning instantly! I
>> am more into gobs of low end slow torque and even carbureted my 258 is
>> great at that. It has 3.31 gears, Manual Transmission and 30"
>> tires. On level roads I can have it Idling in High gear and apply
>> full throttle without any jerking or pinging, it just begins
>> accelerating and builds speed.
>>
>> The major reason I would like the Injection on my 258 is that I plan
>> on taking it to the Rockies and spend some time at 10,000 to 12,000
>> feet which tends to cause an over rich mixture in a carburetor set up
>> for 300 feet like mine! I doubt I would need to change heads, since
>> my engine runs perfectly.
>>
>> Thank you so much for offering to help, and I WILL take you up on it
>> when the time comes.
>>
>> Thanks, Bruce
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
I have a spare 258 sitting in the garage and a spare 4.0 sitting in
front under my 'shade tree' already stripped ready to pull.....
I could use the 258 guts in the 4.0 and drop a nice carb and intake and
headers on and just rock with a 4.7 or so stroker....
If I am gonna build, I am gonna build...
Mike
Rich wrote:
> MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine
> shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
> the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
> and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
> have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
> to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
> difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
> this:
> http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
> I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
> you'll like it... :-)
> Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
> altitude trails whithout a burp.
>
>
front under my 'shade tree' already stripped ready to pull.....
I could use the 258 guts in the 4.0 and drop a nice carb and intake and
headers on and just rock with a 4.7 or so stroker....
If I am gonna build, I am gonna build...
Mike
Rich wrote:
> MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine
> shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
> the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
> and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
> have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
> to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
> difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
> this:
> http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
> I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
> you'll like it... :-)
> Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
> altitude trails whithout a burp.
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
I have a spare 258 sitting in the garage and a spare 4.0 sitting in
front under my 'shade tree' already stripped ready to pull.....
I could use the 258 guts in the 4.0 and drop a nice carb and intake and
headers on and just rock with a 4.7 or so stroker....
If I am gonna build, I am gonna build...
Mike
Rich wrote:
> MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine
> shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
> the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
> and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
> have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
> to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
> difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
> this:
> http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
> I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
> you'll like it... :-)
> Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
> altitude trails whithout a burp.
>
>
front under my 'shade tree' already stripped ready to pull.....
I could use the 258 guts in the 4.0 and drop a nice carb and intake and
headers on and just rock with a 4.7 or so stroker....
If I am gonna build, I am gonna build...
Mike
Rich wrote:
> MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine
> shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
> the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
> and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
> have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
> to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
> difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
> this:
> http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
> I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
> you'll like it... :-)
> Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
> altitude trails whithout a burp.
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
I have a spare 258 sitting in the garage and a spare 4.0 sitting in
front under my 'shade tree' already stripped ready to pull.....
I could use the 258 guts in the 4.0 and drop a nice carb and intake and
headers on and just rock with a 4.7 or so stroker....
If I am gonna build, I am gonna build...
Mike
Rich wrote:
> MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine
> shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
> the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
> and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
> have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
> to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
> difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
> this:
> http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
> I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
> you'll like it... :-)
> Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
> altitude trails whithout a burp.
>
>
front under my 'shade tree' already stripped ready to pull.....
I could use the 258 guts in the 4.0 and drop a nice carb and intake and
headers on and just rock with a 4.7 or so stroker....
If I am gonna build, I am gonna build...
Mike
Rich wrote:
> MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine
> shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
> the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
> and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
> have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
> to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
> difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
> this:
> http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
> I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
> you'll like it... :-)
> Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
> altitude trails whithout a burp.
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
I have a spare 258 sitting in the garage and a spare 4.0 sitting in
front under my 'shade tree' already stripped ready to pull.....
I could use the 258 guts in the 4.0 and drop a nice carb and intake and
headers on and just rock with a 4.7 or so stroker....
If I am gonna build, I am gonna build...
Mike
Rich wrote:
> MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine
> shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
> the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
> and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
> have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
> to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
> difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
> this:
> http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
> I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
> you'll like it... :-)
> Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
> altitude trails whithout a burp.
>
>
front under my 'shade tree' already stripped ready to pull.....
I could use the 258 guts in the 4.0 and drop a nice carb and intake and
headers on and just rock with a 4.7 or so stroker....
If I am gonna build, I am gonna build...
Mike
Rich wrote:
> MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine
> shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
> the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
> and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
> have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
> to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
> difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
> this:
> http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
> I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
> you'll like it... :-)
> Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
> altitude trails whithout a burp.
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
Rich, linky don't work.
Rich wrote:
> MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine
> shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
> the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
> and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
> have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
> to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
> difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
> this:
> http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
> I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
> you'll like it... :-)
> Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
> altitude trails whithout a burp.
>
>
Rich wrote:
> MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine
> shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of
> the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod
> and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never
> have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not
> to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big
> difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read
> this:
> http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
> I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it
> you'll like it... :-)
> Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high
> altitude trails whithout a burp.
>
>