Lee Ayrton

Just a note: Users should be careful about metering problems like this
without the proper load attached. A crappy ground connection can let you
read full voltage at no load (leading you to think that it is OK), but the
voltage evaporates when you plug the lamp back in.


On Wed, 7 Feb 2007, Highcountry wrote:

> Step by step?
>
> A) Swap the headlamp bulbs and see if the problem travels with the
> bulb. This would also be a good time to upgrade to a new set of
> Wagner Tru-View lamps, you will be amazed how much better they are
> than stock plus they don't overload the stock wiring and switch!
>
> B) If "A" didn't do the trick, take a Digital Multimeter (voltmeter)
> and check the voltage at each headlight connector. Be sure to turn
> on the lights and don't forget to switch them from "DIM" to "BRIGHT"
> and check both circuits. Should be almost the same as checking
> between the battery posts, without the engine running around 12.3 to
> 12.6 volts. If they check good voltage, check the resistance of the
> Ground Circuit of the headllight connector using the "Ohm meter"
> feature of the Multimeter, it should be virtually "0.00". Sometimes
> each headlamp has it's own ground circuit, you may have loosened one
> during your mechanical adventure so trace the ground wires to see what
> you have.
>
> Good luck, Bruce
>
>

--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.

Lee Ayrton

Just a note: Users should be careful about metering problems like this
without the proper load attached. A crappy ground connection can let you
read full voltage at no load (leading you to think that it is OK), but the
voltage evaporates when you plug the lamp back in.


On Wed, 7 Feb 2007, Highcountry wrote:

> Step by step?
>
> A) Swap the headlamp bulbs and see if the problem travels with the
> bulb. This would also be a good time to upgrade to a new set of
> Wagner Tru-View lamps, you will be amazed how much better they are
> than stock plus they don't overload the stock wiring and switch!
>
> B) If "A" didn't do the trick, take a Digital Multimeter (voltmeter)
> and check the voltage at each headlight connector. Be sure to turn
> on the lights and don't forget to switch them from "DIM" to "BRIGHT"
> and check both circuits. Should be almost the same as checking
> between the battery posts, without the engine running around 12.3 to
> 12.6 volts. If they check good voltage, check the resistance of the
> Ground Circuit of the headllight connector using the "Ohm meter"
> feature of the Multimeter, it should be virtually "0.00". Sometimes
> each headlamp has it's own ground circuit, you may have loosened one
> during your mechanical adventure so trace the ground wires to see what
> you have.
>
> Good luck, Bruce
>
>

--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.

Lee Ayrton

Just a note: Users should be careful about metering problems like this
without the proper load attached. A crappy ground connection can let you
read full voltage at no load (leading you to think that it is OK), but the
voltage evaporates when you plug the lamp back in.


On Wed, 7 Feb 2007, Highcountry wrote:

> Step by step?
>
> A) Swap the headlamp bulbs and see if the problem travels with the
> bulb. This would also be a good time to upgrade to a new set of
> Wagner Tru-View lamps, you will be amazed how much better they are
> than stock plus they don't overload the stock wiring and switch!
>
> B) If "A" didn't do the trick, take a Digital Multimeter (voltmeter)
> and check the voltage at each headlight connector. Be sure to turn
> on the lights and don't forget to switch them from "DIM" to "BRIGHT"
> and check both circuits. Should be almost the same as checking
> between the battery posts, without the engine running around 12.3 to
> 12.6 volts. If they check good voltage, check the resistance of the
> Ground Circuit of the headllight connector using the "Ohm meter"
> feature of the Multimeter, it should be virtually "0.00". Sometimes
> each headlamp has it's own ground circuit, you may have loosened one
> during your mechanical adventure so trace the ground wires to see what
> you have.
>
> Good luck, Bruce
>
>

--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.

Rod Gramlich

Almost CERTAINLY a bad connection (it could be ground, ... or it could be
power source i.e. corroded plug contacts etc.).

There's no bulbs to swap ... per se .... except the sealed units themselves
........ but sealed units are (generally speaking) either working, ... or not
working ..... i.e. with proper connections, the light is either on or off. A
dim light indicates bad current flow .......

My guess would be bad plug connection


<lynnhowlyn@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1170827306.277337.237830@h3g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> OK - 1983 CJ7, essentailly stock as least in terms of the electrical &
> wiring.
>
> I took the grill and radiator out recently while replacing on the PS
> gearbox which meant disconnecting headlights, turn signals and etc and
> pulling the front harness.
>
> All of the lights (headlights, turn signal and etc) were working
> correctly before working on it.
>
> But when I re-installed everything, the drivers headlight is very dim
> (VERY dim) and the passenger headlight is pretty normal brightness.
> Turn signals work as well as before --- that is to sday , they work
> good.
>
> The harness was left connected to the bulkhead connector while I was
> working on the Jeep - which still starts and runs like it should
>
> I'm thinking a bad or loose ground, but can't see any loose wires
> or ??
>
> Any suggestions on where to start? Diagnostics? Haven't tried
> swapping bulbs side-to-side yet - but will when I get back into the
> shop.
>
> Thanks
>
> Lynn in Vancouver WA
>

Rod Gramlich

Almost CERTAINLY a bad connection (it could be ground, ... or it could be
power source i.e. corroded plug contacts etc.).

There's no bulbs to swap ... per se .... except the sealed units themselves
........ but sealed units are (generally speaking) either working, ... or not
working ..... i.e. with proper connections, the light is either on or off. A
dim light indicates bad current flow .......

My guess would be bad plug connection


<lynnhowlyn@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1170827306.277337.237830@h3g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> OK - 1983 CJ7, essentailly stock as least in terms of the electrical &
> wiring.
>
> I took the grill and radiator out recently while replacing on the PS
> gearbox which meant disconnecting headlights, turn signals and etc and
> pulling the front harness.
>
> All of the lights (headlights, turn signal and etc) were working
> correctly before working on it.
>
> But when I re-installed everything, the drivers headlight is very dim
> (VERY dim) and the passenger headlight is pretty normal brightness.
> Turn signals work as well as before --- that is to sday , they work
> good.
>
> The harness was left connected to the bulkhead connector while I was
> working on the Jeep - which still starts and runs like it should
>
> I'm thinking a bad or loose ground, but can't see any loose wires
> or ??
>
> Any suggestions on where to start? Diagnostics? Haven't tried
> swapping bulbs side-to-side yet - but will when I get back into the
> shop.
>
> Thanks
>
> Lynn in Vancouver WA
>

Rod Gramlich

Almost CERTAINLY a bad connection (it could be ground, ... or it could be
power source i.e. corroded plug contacts etc.).

There's no bulbs to swap ... per se .... except the sealed units themselves
........ but sealed units are (generally speaking) either working, ... or not
working ..... i.e. with proper connections, the light is either on or off. A
dim light indicates bad current flow .......

My guess would be bad plug connection


<lynnhowlyn@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1170827306.277337.237830@h3g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> OK - 1983 CJ7, essentailly stock as least in terms of the electrical &
> wiring.
>
> I took the grill and radiator out recently while replacing on the PS
> gearbox which meant disconnecting headlights, turn signals and etc and
> pulling the front harness.
>
> All of the lights (headlights, turn signal and etc) were working
> correctly before working on it.
>
> But when I re-installed everything, the drivers headlight is very dim
> (VERY dim) and the passenger headlight is pretty normal brightness.
> Turn signals work as well as before --- that is to sday , they work
> good.
>
> The harness was left connected to the bulkhead connector while I was
> working on the Jeep - which still starts and runs like it should
>
> I'm thinking a bad or loose ground, but can't see any loose wires
> or ??
>
> Any suggestions on where to start? Diagnostics? Haven't tried
> swapping bulbs side-to-side yet - but will when I get back into the
> shop.
>
> Thanks
>
> Lynn in Vancouver WA
>

Rod Gramlich

Almost CERTAINLY a bad connection (it could be ground, ... or it could be
power source i.e. corroded plug contacts etc.).

There's no bulbs to swap ... per se .... except the sealed units themselves
........ but sealed units are (generally speaking) either working, ... or not
working ..... i.e. with proper connections, the light is either on or off. A
dim light indicates bad current flow .......

My guess would be bad plug connection


<lynnhowlyn@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1170827306.277337.237830@h3g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> OK - 1983 CJ7, essentailly stock as least in terms of the electrical &
> wiring.
>
> I took the grill and radiator out recently while replacing on the PS
> gearbox which meant disconnecting headlights, turn signals and etc and
> pulling the front harness.
>
> All of the lights (headlights, turn signal and etc) were working
> correctly before working on it.
>
> But when I re-installed everything, the drivers headlight is very dim
> (VERY dim) and the passenger headlight is pretty normal brightness.
> Turn signals work as well as before --- that is to sday , they work
> good.
>
> The harness was left connected to the bulkhead connector while I was
> working on the Jeep - which still starts and runs like it should
>
> I'm thinking a bad or loose ground, but can't see any loose wires
> or ??
>
> Any suggestions on where to start? Diagnostics? Haven't tried
> swapping bulbs side-to-side yet - but will when I get back into the
> shop.
>
> Thanks
>
> Lynn in Vancouver WA
>

Rod Gramlich

"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.64.0702071527150.10739@panix3.pani x.com...
>
>
> Just a note: Users should be careful about metering problems like this
> without the proper load attached. A crappy ground connection can let you
> read full voltage at no load (leading you to think that it is OK), but the
> voltage evaporates when you plug the lamp back in.

exactly ................ the issue here is almost certainly interrupted
current flow under load


>
>
> On Wed, 7 Feb 2007, Highcountry wrote:
>
>> Step by step?
>>
>> A) Swap the headlamp bulbs and see if the problem travels with the
>> bulb. This would also be a good time to upgrade to a new set of
>> Wagner Tru-View lamps, you will be amazed how much better they are
>> than stock plus they don't overload the stock wiring and switch!
>>
>> B) If "A" didn't do the trick, take a Digital Multimeter (voltmeter)
>> and check the voltage at each headlight connector. Be sure to turn
>> on the lights and don't forget to switch them from "DIM" to "BRIGHT"
>> and check both circuits. Should be almost the same as checking
>> between the battery posts, without the engine running around 12.3 to
>> 12.6 volts. If they check good voltage, check the resistance of the
>> Ground Circuit of the headllight connector using the "Ohm meter"
>> feature of the Multimeter, it should be virtually "0.00". Sometimes
>> each headlamp has it's own ground circuit, you may have loosened one
>> during your mechanical adventure so trace the ground wires to see what
>> you have.
>>
>> Good luck, Bruce
>>
>>
>
> --
> "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
>

Rod Gramlich

"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.64.0702071527150.10739@panix3.pani x.com...
>
>
> Just a note: Users should be careful about metering problems like this
> without the proper load attached. A crappy ground connection can let you
> read full voltage at no load (leading you to think that it is OK), but the
> voltage evaporates when you plug the lamp back in.

exactly ................ the issue here is almost certainly interrupted
current flow under load


>
>
> On Wed, 7 Feb 2007, Highcountry wrote:
>
>> Step by step?
>>
>> A) Swap the headlamp bulbs and see if the problem travels with the
>> bulb. This would also be a good time to upgrade to a new set of
>> Wagner Tru-View lamps, you will be amazed how much better they are
>> than stock plus they don't overload the stock wiring and switch!
>>
>> B) If "A" didn't do the trick, take a Digital Multimeter (voltmeter)
>> and check the voltage at each headlight connector. Be sure to turn
>> on the lights and don't forget to switch them from "DIM" to "BRIGHT"
>> and check both circuits. Should be almost the same as checking
>> between the battery posts, without the engine running around 12.3 to
>> 12.6 volts. If they check good voltage, check the resistance of the
>> Ground Circuit of the headllight connector using the "Ohm meter"
>> feature of the Multimeter, it should be virtually "0.00". Sometimes
>> each headlamp has it's own ground circuit, you may have loosened one
>> during your mechanical adventure so trace the ground wires to see what
>> you have.
>>
>> Good luck, Bruce
>>
>>
>
> --
> "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
>

Rod Gramlich

"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.64.0702071527150.10739@panix3.pani x.com...
>
>
> Just a note: Users should be careful about metering problems like this
> without the proper load attached. A crappy ground connection can let you
> read full voltage at no load (leading you to think that it is OK), but the
> voltage evaporates when you plug the lamp back in.

exactly ................ the issue here is almost certainly interrupted
current flow under load


>
>
> On Wed, 7 Feb 2007, Highcountry wrote:
>
>> Step by step?
>>
>> A) Swap the headlamp bulbs and see if the problem travels with the
>> bulb. This would also be a good time to upgrade to a new set of
>> Wagner Tru-View lamps, you will be amazed how much better they are
>> than stock plus they don't overload the stock wiring and switch!
>>
>> B) If "A" didn't do the trick, take a Digital Multimeter (voltmeter)
>> and check the voltage at each headlight connector. Be sure to turn
>> on the lights and don't forget to switch them from "DIM" to "BRIGHT"
>> and check both circuits. Should be almost the same as checking
>> between the battery posts, without the engine running around 12.3 to
>> 12.6 volts. If they check good voltage, check the resistance of the
>> Ground Circuit of the headllight connector using the "Ohm meter"
>> feature of the Multimeter, it should be virtually "0.00". Sometimes
>> each headlamp has it's own ground circuit, you may have loosened one
>> during your mechanical adventure so trace the ground wires to see what
>> you have.
>>
>> Good luck, Bruce
>>
>>
>
> --
> "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
>