CJ hazard lights
#51
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ hazard lights
From the way he phrased the question I was guessing that he wasn't
interested in swapping steering columns, and was hoping for just a switch
he could plug in. That, obviously, isn't in the cards. I wonder if his
after-market column uses a standard GM signal light switch? It could be
as simple as drilling a hole for the button.
My `62 Econoline had a dealer-installed "Emergency flasher". It was a big
red **** in the middle of the dash, about the size of a big truck's air
brake parking brake ****, with a lamp inside. It didn't disconnect the
standard signal flasher when in use, it ran parallel to it. Putting both
the 4-way and the turn signals on at the same time yielded some
interesting patterns as the flashers competed for control. Blink.
Blink. Blinkety-blinkety. Blink... Blinkety-blinkety-blinkety. Blink.
Blink.
On Tue, 27 Jul 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
[snip]
> You need a stock switch that you could wire in with a lot of work. The
> stock switch has two parts, it has a switch to bypass the signal light
> switch power and a double pole contact to send power to the rear brake
> lights and front signal lights.
>
> The stock saganaw steering column is really common, all GM full sized
> vans, Camaros, Chevettes, etc used them so the wrecker might be a good
> source for the switch or a 'proper' steering column.
[snip]
> I suppose you could just add a double pole, double throw toggle switch
> with a flasher inline to the power and fire them all off on the second
> throw while breaking the power to the signals on leaving the first throw
> so it doesn't short out.
[snip]
#52
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ hazard lights
From the way he phrased the question I was guessing that he wasn't
interested in swapping steering columns, and was hoping for just a switch
he could plug in. That, obviously, isn't in the cards. I wonder if his
after-market column uses a standard GM signal light switch? It could be
as simple as drilling a hole for the button.
My `62 Econoline had a dealer-installed "Emergency flasher". It was a big
red **** in the middle of the dash, about the size of a big truck's air
brake parking brake ****, with a lamp inside. It didn't disconnect the
standard signal flasher when in use, it ran parallel to it. Putting both
the 4-way and the turn signals on at the same time yielded some
interesting patterns as the flashers competed for control. Blink.
Blink. Blinkety-blinkety. Blink... Blinkety-blinkety-blinkety. Blink.
Blink.
On Tue, 27 Jul 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
[snip]
> You need a stock switch that you could wire in with a lot of work. The
> stock switch has two parts, it has a switch to bypass the signal light
> switch power and a double pole contact to send power to the rear brake
> lights and front signal lights.
>
> The stock saganaw steering column is really common, all GM full sized
> vans, Camaros, Chevettes, etc used them so the wrecker might be a good
> source for the switch or a 'proper' steering column.
[snip]
> I suppose you could just add a double pole, double throw toggle switch
> with a flasher inline to the power and fire them all off on the second
> throw while breaking the power to the signals on leaving the first throw
> so it doesn't short out.
[snip]
#53
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ hazard lights
From the way he phrased the question I was guessing that he wasn't
interested in swapping steering columns, and was hoping for just a switch
he could plug in. That, obviously, isn't in the cards. I wonder if his
after-market column uses a standard GM signal light switch? It could be
as simple as drilling a hole for the button.
My `62 Econoline had a dealer-installed "Emergency flasher". It was a big
red **** in the middle of the dash, about the size of a big truck's air
brake parking brake ****, with a lamp inside. It didn't disconnect the
standard signal flasher when in use, it ran parallel to it. Putting both
the 4-way and the turn signals on at the same time yielded some
interesting patterns as the flashers competed for control. Blink.
Blink. Blinkety-blinkety. Blink... Blinkety-blinkety-blinkety. Blink.
Blink.
On Tue, 27 Jul 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
[snip]
> You need a stock switch that you could wire in with a lot of work. The
> stock switch has two parts, it has a switch to bypass the signal light
> switch power and a double pole contact to send power to the rear brake
> lights and front signal lights.
>
> The stock saganaw steering column is really common, all GM full sized
> vans, Camaros, Chevettes, etc used them so the wrecker might be a good
> source for the switch or a 'proper' steering column.
[snip]
> I suppose you could just add a double pole, double throw toggle switch
> with a flasher inline to the power and fire them all off on the second
> throw while breaking the power to the signals on leaving the first throw
> so it doesn't short out.
[snip]
#54
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ hazard lights
I know 'I' could wire in a switch, but I also have been doing vehicle
wiring for years and redid my CJ's when I put the 'glass body on it.
Trying to walk someone else through it can be tough depending on their
knowledge level.
I was just looking at the wiring diagram and it calls for 3 not
connected until power is applied contacts. One for both rear lights
that tags the stop light switch and one for 'each' side on the front.
So that would need an on/off/on 4 pole switch or maybe just an on/on 4
pole. (the extra pole is for powering the signals and shutting them off
when the flashers come on.
Red/w to one center pole and the up position pin for 'normal' use and a
gang power from the pink wire or a fused flasher on the other 3 center
pins that hit the two fronts and one rear when the switch goes down.
This leaves all the lights disconnected from the switch and each other
when the switch is up.
Mike
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> From the way he phrased the question I was guessing that he wasn't
> interested in swapping steering columns, and was hoping for just a switch
> he could plug in. That, obviously, isn't in the cards. I wonder if his
> after-market column uses a standard GM signal light switch? It could be
> as simple as drilling a hole for the button.
>
> My `62 Econoline had a dealer-installed "Emergency flasher". It was a big
> red **** in the middle of the dash, about the size of a big truck's air
> brake parking brake ****, with a lamp inside. It didn't disconnect the
> standard signal flasher when in use, it ran parallel to it. Putting both
> the 4-way and the turn signals on at the same time yielded some
> interesting patterns as the flashers competed for control. Blink.
> Blink. Blinkety-blinkety. Blink... Blinkety-blinkety-blinkety. Blink.
> Blink.
>
> On Tue, 27 Jul 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
>
> [snip]
> > You need a stock switch that you could wire in with a lot of work. The
> > stock switch has two parts, it has a switch to bypass the signal light
> > switch power and a double pole contact to send power to the rear brake
> > lights and front signal lights.
> >
> > The stock saganaw steering column is really common, all GM full sized
> > vans, Camaros, Chevettes, etc used them so the wrecker might be a good
> > source for the switch or a 'proper' steering column.
> [snip]
>
> > I suppose you could just add a double pole, double throw toggle switch
> > with a flasher inline to the power and fire them all off on the second
> > throw while breaking the power to the signals on leaving the first throw
> > so it doesn't short out.
> [snip]
wiring for years and redid my CJ's when I put the 'glass body on it.
Trying to walk someone else through it can be tough depending on their
knowledge level.
I was just looking at the wiring diagram and it calls for 3 not
connected until power is applied contacts. One for both rear lights
that tags the stop light switch and one for 'each' side on the front.
So that would need an on/off/on 4 pole switch or maybe just an on/on 4
pole. (the extra pole is for powering the signals and shutting them off
when the flashers come on.
Red/w to one center pole and the up position pin for 'normal' use and a
gang power from the pink wire or a fused flasher on the other 3 center
pins that hit the two fronts and one rear when the switch goes down.
This leaves all the lights disconnected from the switch and each other
when the switch is up.
Mike
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> From the way he phrased the question I was guessing that he wasn't
> interested in swapping steering columns, and was hoping for just a switch
> he could plug in. That, obviously, isn't in the cards. I wonder if his
> after-market column uses a standard GM signal light switch? It could be
> as simple as drilling a hole for the button.
>
> My `62 Econoline had a dealer-installed "Emergency flasher". It was a big
> red **** in the middle of the dash, about the size of a big truck's air
> brake parking brake ****, with a lamp inside. It didn't disconnect the
> standard signal flasher when in use, it ran parallel to it. Putting both
> the 4-way and the turn signals on at the same time yielded some
> interesting patterns as the flashers competed for control. Blink.
> Blink. Blinkety-blinkety. Blink... Blinkety-blinkety-blinkety. Blink.
> Blink.
>
> On Tue, 27 Jul 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
>
> [snip]
> > You need a stock switch that you could wire in with a lot of work. The
> > stock switch has two parts, it has a switch to bypass the signal light
> > switch power and a double pole contact to send power to the rear brake
> > lights and front signal lights.
> >
> > The stock saganaw steering column is really common, all GM full sized
> > vans, Camaros, Chevettes, etc used them so the wrecker might be a good
> > source for the switch or a 'proper' steering column.
> [snip]
>
> > I suppose you could just add a double pole, double throw toggle switch
> > with a flasher inline to the power and fire them all off on the second
> > throw while breaking the power to the signals on leaving the first throw
> > so it doesn't short out.
> [snip]
#55
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ hazard lights
I know 'I' could wire in a switch, but I also have been doing vehicle
wiring for years and redid my CJ's when I put the 'glass body on it.
Trying to walk someone else through it can be tough depending on their
knowledge level.
I was just looking at the wiring diagram and it calls for 3 not
connected until power is applied contacts. One for both rear lights
that tags the stop light switch and one for 'each' side on the front.
So that would need an on/off/on 4 pole switch or maybe just an on/on 4
pole. (the extra pole is for powering the signals and shutting them off
when the flashers come on.
Red/w to one center pole and the up position pin for 'normal' use and a
gang power from the pink wire or a fused flasher on the other 3 center
pins that hit the two fronts and one rear when the switch goes down.
This leaves all the lights disconnected from the switch and each other
when the switch is up.
Mike
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> From the way he phrased the question I was guessing that he wasn't
> interested in swapping steering columns, and was hoping for just a switch
> he could plug in. That, obviously, isn't in the cards. I wonder if his
> after-market column uses a standard GM signal light switch? It could be
> as simple as drilling a hole for the button.
>
> My `62 Econoline had a dealer-installed "Emergency flasher". It was a big
> red **** in the middle of the dash, about the size of a big truck's air
> brake parking brake ****, with a lamp inside. It didn't disconnect the
> standard signal flasher when in use, it ran parallel to it. Putting both
> the 4-way and the turn signals on at the same time yielded some
> interesting patterns as the flashers competed for control. Blink.
> Blink. Blinkety-blinkety. Blink... Blinkety-blinkety-blinkety. Blink.
> Blink.
>
> On Tue, 27 Jul 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
>
> [snip]
> > You need a stock switch that you could wire in with a lot of work. The
> > stock switch has two parts, it has a switch to bypass the signal light
> > switch power and a double pole contact to send power to the rear brake
> > lights and front signal lights.
> >
> > The stock saganaw steering column is really common, all GM full sized
> > vans, Camaros, Chevettes, etc used them so the wrecker might be a good
> > source for the switch or a 'proper' steering column.
> [snip]
>
> > I suppose you could just add a double pole, double throw toggle switch
> > with a flasher inline to the power and fire them all off on the second
> > throw while breaking the power to the signals on leaving the first throw
> > so it doesn't short out.
> [snip]
wiring for years and redid my CJ's when I put the 'glass body on it.
Trying to walk someone else through it can be tough depending on their
knowledge level.
I was just looking at the wiring diagram and it calls for 3 not
connected until power is applied contacts. One for both rear lights
that tags the stop light switch and one for 'each' side on the front.
So that would need an on/off/on 4 pole switch or maybe just an on/on 4
pole. (the extra pole is for powering the signals and shutting them off
when the flashers come on.
Red/w to one center pole and the up position pin for 'normal' use and a
gang power from the pink wire or a fused flasher on the other 3 center
pins that hit the two fronts and one rear when the switch goes down.
This leaves all the lights disconnected from the switch and each other
when the switch is up.
Mike
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> From the way he phrased the question I was guessing that he wasn't
> interested in swapping steering columns, and was hoping for just a switch
> he could plug in. That, obviously, isn't in the cards. I wonder if his
> after-market column uses a standard GM signal light switch? It could be
> as simple as drilling a hole for the button.
>
> My `62 Econoline had a dealer-installed "Emergency flasher". It was a big
> red **** in the middle of the dash, about the size of a big truck's air
> brake parking brake ****, with a lamp inside. It didn't disconnect the
> standard signal flasher when in use, it ran parallel to it. Putting both
> the 4-way and the turn signals on at the same time yielded some
> interesting patterns as the flashers competed for control. Blink.
> Blink. Blinkety-blinkety. Blink... Blinkety-blinkety-blinkety. Blink.
> Blink.
>
> On Tue, 27 Jul 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
>
> [snip]
> > You need a stock switch that you could wire in with a lot of work. The
> > stock switch has two parts, it has a switch to bypass the signal light
> > switch power and a double pole contact to send power to the rear brake
> > lights and front signal lights.
> >
> > The stock saganaw steering column is really common, all GM full sized
> > vans, Camaros, Chevettes, etc used them so the wrecker might be a good
> > source for the switch or a 'proper' steering column.
> [snip]
>
> > I suppose you could just add a double pole, double throw toggle switch
> > with a flasher inline to the power and fire them all off on the second
> > throw while breaking the power to the signals on leaving the first throw
> > so it doesn't short out.
> [snip]
#56
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ hazard lights
I know 'I' could wire in a switch, but I also have been doing vehicle
wiring for years and redid my CJ's when I put the 'glass body on it.
Trying to walk someone else through it can be tough depending on their
knowledge level.
I was just looking at the wiring diagram and it calls for 3 not
connected until power is applied contacts. One for both rear lights
that tags the stop light switch and one for 'each' side on the front.
So that would need an on/off/on 4 pole switch or maybe just an on/on 4
pole. (the extra pole is for powering the signals and shutting them off
when the flashers come on.
Red/w to one center pole and the up position pin for 'normal' use and a
gang power from the pink wire or a fused flasher on the other 3 center
pins that hit the two fronts and one rear when the switch goes down.
This leaves all the lights disconnected from the switch and each other
when the switch is up.
Mike
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> From the way he phrased the question I was guessing that he wasn't
> interested in swapping steering columns, and was hoping for just a switch
> he could plug in. That, obviously, isn't in the cards. I wonder if his
> after-market column uses a standard GM signal light switch? It could be
> as simple as drilling a hole for the button.
>
> My `62 Econoline had a dealer-installed "Emergency flasher". It was a big
> red **** in the middle of the dash, about the size of a big truck's air
> brake parking brake ****, with a lamp inside. It didn't disconnect the
> standard signal flasher when in use, it ran parallel to it. Putting both
> the 4-way and the turn signals on at the same time yielded some
> interesting patterns as the flashers competed for control. Blink.
> Blink. Blinkety-blinkety. Blink... Blinkety-blinkety-blinkety. Blink.
> Blink.
>
> On Tue, 27 Jul 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
>
> [snip]
> > You need a stock switch that you could wire in with a lot of work. The
> > stock switch has two parts, it has a switch to bypass the signal light
> > switch power and a double pole contact to send power to the rear brake
> > lights and front signal lights.
> >
> > The stock saganaw steering column is really common, all GM full sized
> > vans, Camaros, Chevettes, etc used them so the wrecker might be a good
> > source for the switch or a 'proper' steering column.
> [snip]
>
> > I suppose you could just add a double pole, double throw toggle switch
> > with a flasher inline to the power and fire them all off on the second
> > throw while breaking the power to the signals on leaving the first throw
> > so it doesn't short out.
> [snip]
wiring for years and redid my CJ's when I put the 'glass body on it.
Trying to walk someone else through it can be tough depending on their
knowledge level.
I was just looking at the wiring diagram and it calls for 3 not
connected until power is applied contacts. One for both rear lights
that tags the stop light switch and one for 'each' side on the front.
So that would need an on/off/on 4 pole switch or maybe just an on/on 4
pole. (the extra pole is for powering the signals and shutting them off
when the flashers come on.
Red/w to one center pole and the up position pin for 'normal' use and a
gang power from the pink wire or a fused flasher on the other 3 center
pins that hit the two fronts and one rear when the switch goes down.
This leaves all the lights disconnected from the switch and each other
when the switch is up.
Mike
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> From the way he phrased the question I was guessing that he wasn't
> interested in swapping steering columns, and was hoping for just a switch
> he could plug in. That, obviously, isn't in the cards. I wonder if his
> after-market column uses a standard GM signal light switch? It could be
> as simple as drilling a hole for the button.
>
> My `62 Econoline had a dealer-installed "Emergency flasher". It was a big
> red **** in the middle of the dash, about the size of a big truck's air
> brake parking brake ****, with a lamp inside. It didn't disconnect the
> standard signal flasher when in use, it ran parallel to it. Putting both
> the 4-way and the turn signals on at the same time yielded some
> interesting patterns as the flashers competed for control. Blink.
> Blink. Blinkety-blinkety. Blink... Blinkety-blinkety-blinkety. Blink.
> Blink.
>
> On Tue, 27 Jul 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
>
> [snip]
> > You need a stock switch that you could wire in with a lot of work. The
> > stock switch has two parts, it has a switch to bypass the signal light
> > switch power and a double pole contact to send power to the rear brake
> > lights and front signal lights.
> >
> > The stock saganaw steering column is really common, all GM full sized
> > vans, Camaros, Chevettes, etc used them so the wrecker might be a good
> > source for the switch or a 'proper' steering column.
> [snip]
>
> > I suppose you could just add a double pole, double throw toggle switch
> > with a flasher inline to the power and fire them all off on the second
> > throw while breaking the power to the signals on leaving the first throw
> > so it doesn't short out.
> [snip]
#57
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ hazard lights
I know 'I' could wire in a switch, but I also have been doing vehicle
wiring for years and redid my CJ's when I put the 'glass body on it.
Trying to walk someone else through it can be tough depending on their
knowledge level.
I was just looking at the wiring diagram and it calls for 3 not
connected until power is applied contacts. One for both rear lights
that tags the stop light switch and one for 'each' side on the front.
So that would need an on/off/on 4 pole switch or maybe just an on/on 4
pole. (the extra pole is for powering the signals and shutting them off
when the flashers come on.
Red/w to one center pole and the up position pin for 'normal' use and a
gang power from the pink wire or a fused flasher on the other 3 center
pins that hit the two fronts and one rear when the switch goes down.
This leaves all the lights disconnected from the switch and each other
when the switch is up.
Mike
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> From the way he phrased the question I was guessing that he wasn't
> interested in swapping steering columns, and was hoping for just a switch
> he could plug in. That, obviously, isn't in the cards. I wonder if his
> after-market column uses a standard GM signal light switch? It could be
> as simple as drilling a hole for the button.
>
> My `62 Econoline had a dealer-installed "Emergency flasher". It was a big
> red **** in the middle of the dash, about the size of a big truck's air
> brake parking brake ****, with a lamp inside. It didn't disconnect the
> standard signal flasher when in use, it ran parallel to it. Putting both
> the 4-way and the turn signals on at the same time yielded some
> interesting patterns as the flashers competed for control. Blink.
> Blink. Blinkety-blinkety. Blink... Blinkety-blinkety-blinkety. Blink.
> Blink.
>
> On Tue, 27 Jul 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
>
> [snip]
> > You need a stock switch that you could wire in with a lot of work. The
> > stock switch has two parts, it has a switch to bypass the signal light
> > switch power and a double pole contact to send power to the rear brake
> > lights and front signal lights.
> >
> > The stock saganaw steering column is really common, all GM full sized
> > vans, Camaros, Chevettes, etc used them so the wrecker might be a good
> > source for the switch or a 'proper' steering column.
> [snip]
>
> > I suppose you could just add a double pole, double throw toggle switch
> > with a flasher inline to the power and fire them all off on the second
> > throw while breaking the power to the signals on leaving the first throw
> > so it doesn't short out.
> [snip]
wiring for years and redid my CJ's when I put the 'glass body on it.
Trying to walk someone else through it can be tough depending on their
knowledge level.
I was just looking at the wiring diagram and it calls for 3 not
connected until power is applied contacts. One for both rear lights
that tags the stop light switch and one for 'each' side on the front.
So that would need an on/off/on 4 pole switch or maybe just an on/on 4
pole. (the extra pole is for powering the signals and shutting them off
when the flashers come on.
Red/w to one center pole and the up position pin for 'normal' use and a
gang power from the pink wire or a fused flasher on the other 3 center
pins that hit the two fronts and one rear when the switch goes down.
This leaves all the lights disconnected from the switch and each other
when the switch is up.
Mike
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> From the way he phrased the question I was guessing that he wasn't
> interested in swapping steering columns, and was hoping for just a switch
> he could plug in. That, obviously, isn't in the cards. I wonder if his
> after-market column uses a standard GM signal light switch? It could be
> as simple as drilling a hole for the button.
>
> My `62 Econoline had a dealer-installed "Emergency flasher". It was a big
> red **** in the middle of the dash, about the size of a big truck's air
> brake parking brake ****, with a lamp inside. It didn't disconnect the
> standard signal flasher when in use, it ran parallel to it. Putting both
> the 4-way and the turn signals on at the same time yielded some
> interesting patterns as the flashers competed for control. Blink.
> Blink. Blinkety-blinkety. Blink... Blinkety-blinkety-blinkety. Blink.
> Blink.
>
> On Tue, 27 Jul 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
>
> [snip]
> > You need a stock switch that you could wire in with a lot of work. The
> > stock switch has two parts, it has a switch to bypass the signal light
> > switch power and a double pole contact to send power to the rear brake
> > lights and front signal lights.
> >
> > The stock saganaw steering column is really common, all GM full sized
> > vans, Camaros, Chevettes, etc used them so the wrecker might be a good
> > source for the switch or a 'proper' steering column.
> [snip]
>
> > I suppose you could just add a double pole, double throw toggle switch
> > with a flasher inline to the power and fire them all off on the second
> > throw while breaking the power to the signals on leaving the first throw
> > so it doesn't short out.
> [snip]
#58
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ hazard lights
Thanks folks, for the helpful info.
>
> Hurm.
>
> OK. This is how it works: B+ power from the battery passes through a
> flasher module (those little cans that click), through a switch, on to
> each signal light filament and then to ground and back to B-.
>
> The catch is that you can't just tie all the wires to each signal light
> together at one single throw single pole, because power will then flow to
> all the lights, even though the 4-way flasher is off and you want just the
> left turn, right turn or brake lights to work. Normally, the signal light
> switch handles this by switching these functions seperately.
>
> Were it my problem, I'd find a 4 pole relay (there may be solid-state ways
> of doing this, but that is beyond my ken). Use a switch and flasher to
> control the relay (you may have to use a flasher designed for LEDs if the
> relay won't pull enough power for a thermal flasher), let the relay handle
> getting power to each signal light without tieing them all together. The
> relay will act like 4 individual switches, sending power to each light
> seperately. When the relay is open it disappears, electrically speaking,
> and normal signal and brake function is restored. You might have to
> cultivate a friend in a boneyard to find what sort of cars have the relay
> you need.
>
> B+ ----------------------------------+
> |
> B+ -----[~]--------./.---------=== +./.----------[LF]
> flasher switch === +./.----------[RF]
> === +./.----------[RR]
> B- ----=== +./.----------[LR]
> [ Relay ]
>
>
> You can tap into the signal light wires where they come out of the
> steering column. There will at least be one cold wire for each signal
> light, one hot from the signal light flasher, one from the brake light
> switch (hot only when brakes are on), one hot for the horn. The colors
> _might_ be:
>
> Pink From Emergency flasher
> Red/White From Signal flasher
> Black/White Horn relay
> Lt. Green RR turn/brake
> Lt. Green/Black LR turn/brake
> Green RF turn
> Pink From Brake Switch
> Green/Black LF turn
>
>
> Poking around, it looks like 4-way flashers are an issue for early
> fullsize jeeps. Here's one thread:
> 2. The Forward Forum: Re: 4 way flashers
> <URL:http://members4.boardhost.com/jeepfc/msg/8698.html>
>
> You might try there and see if they have a more elegant solution than
> mine. I recall that my `62 Econoline has 4-way flashers as a dealer
> installed option.
>
> The thread above include a link to a solution for early 60s Ramblers:
> <URL:http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/amcalberta/TechTips/TechTip4.html>
>
>
> And a last thought: You _could_ gang 2 double pole, single throw toggles
> (each pole is really a seperate switch) together and wire them up like the
> relay diagram above, with the switches between the battery and the flasher
> module, and between the flasher and the lights. It would be ugly, but it
> would work. Make sure the switches can handle the load -- don't buy those
> cute little sub-mini switches.
>
>
> Warning and disclaimer: Automotive batteries are high amperage devices
> that will happily destroy wiring, start fires and generally cause grave
> damage to vehicles, property and persons. Given a shorting conductor of
> sufficient size, batteries can explode. Understand what you are doing,
> the hazards and dangers before beginning. Any work the reader undertakes
> is entirely at his or her own risk.
>
> Hurm.
>
> OK. This is how it works: B+ power from the battery passes through a
> flasher module (those little cans that click), through a switch, on to
> each signal light filament and then to ground and back to B-.
>
> The catch is that you can't just tie all the wires to each signal light
> together at one single throw single pole, because power will then flow to
> all the lights, even though the 4-way flasher is off and you want just the
> left turn, right turn or brake lights to work. Normally, the signal light
> switch handles this by switching these functions seperately.
>
> Were it my problem, I'd find a 4 pole relay (there may be solid-state ways
> of doing this, but that is beyond my ken). Use a switch and flasher to
> control the relay (you may have to use a flasher designed for LEDs if the
> relay won't pull enough power for a thermal flasher), let the relay handle
> getting power to each signal light without tieing them all together. The
> relay will act like 4 individual switches, sending power to each light
> seperately. When the relay is open it disappears, electrically speaking,
> and normal signal and brake function is restored. You might have to
> cultivate a friend in a boneyard to find what sort of cars have the relay
> you need.
>
> B+ ----------------------------------+
> |
> B+ -----[~]--------./.---------=== +./.----------[LF]
> flasher switch === +./.----------[RF]
> === +./.----------[RR]
> B- ----=== +./.----------[LR]
> [ Relay ]
>
>
> You can tap into the signal light wires where they come out of the
> steering column. There will at least be one cold wire for each signal
> light, one hot from the signal light flasher, one from the brake light
> switch (hot only when brakes are on), one hot for the horn. The colors
> _might_ be:
>
> Pink From Emergency flasher
> Red/White From Signal flasher
> Black/White Horn relay
> Lt. Green RR turn/brake
> Lt. Green/Black LR turn/brake
> Green RF turn
> Pink From Brake Switch
> Green/Black LF turn
>
>
> Poking around, it looks like 4-way flashers are an issue for early
> fullsize jeeps. Here's one thread:
> 2. The Forward Forum: Re: 4 way flashers
> <URL:http://members4.boardhost.com/jeepfc/msg/8698.html>
>
> You might try there and see if they have a more elegant solution than
> mine. I recall that my `62 Econoline has 4-way flashers as a dealer
> installed option.
>
> The thread above include a link to a solution for early 60s Ramblers:
> <URL:http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/amcalberta/TechTips/TechTip4.html>
>
>
> And a last thought: You _could_ gang 2 double pole, single throw toggles
> (each pole is really a seperate switch) together and wire them up like the
> relay diagram above, with the switches between the battery and the flasher
> module, and between the flasher and the lights. It would be ugly, but it
> would work. Make sure the switches can handle the load -- don't buy those
> cute little sub-mini switches.
>
>
> Warning and disclaimer: Automotive batteries are high amperage devices
> that will happily destroy wiring, start fires and generally cause grave
> damage to vehicles, property and persons. Given a shorting conductor of
> sufficient size, batteries can explode. Understand what you are doing,
> the hazards and dangers before beginning. Any work the reader undertakes
> is entirely at his or her own risk.
#59
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ hazard lights
Thanks folks, for the helpful info.
>
> Hurm.
>
> OK. This is how it works: B+ power from the battery passes through a
> flasher module (those little cans that click), through a switch, on to
> each signal light filament and then to ground and back to B-.
>
> The catch is that you can't just tie all the wires to each signal light
> together at one single throw single pole, because power will then flow to
> all the lights, even though the 4-way flasher is off and you want just the
> left turn, right turn or brake lights to work. Normally, the signal light
> switch handles this by switching these functions seperately.
>
> Were it my problem, I'd find a 4 pole relay (there may be solid-state ways
> of doing this, but that is beyond my ken). Use a switch and flasher to
> control the relay (you may have to use a flasher designed for LEDs if the
> relay won't pull enough power for a thermal flasher), let the relay handle
> getting power to each signal light without tieing them all together. The
> relay will act like 4 individual switches, sending power to each light
> seperately. When the relay is open it disappears, electrically speaking,
> and normal signal and brake function is restored. You might have to
> cultivate a friend in a boneyard to find what sort of cars have the relay
> you need.
>
> B+ ----------------------------------+
> |
> B+ -----[~]--------./.---------=== +./.----------[LF]
> flasher switch === +./.----------[RF]
> === +./.----------[RR]
> B- ----=== +./.----------[LR]
> [ Relay ]
>
>
> You can tap into the signal light wires where they come out of the
> steering column. There will at least be one cold wire for each signal
> light, one hot from the signal light flasher, one from the brake light
> switch (hot only when brakes are on), one hot for the horn. The colors
> _might_ be:
>
> Pink From Emergency flasher
> Red/White From Signal flasher
> Black/White Horn relay
> Lt. Green RR turn/brake
> Lt. Green/Black LR turn/brake
> Green RF turn
> Pink From Brake Switch
> Green/Black LF turn
>
>
> Poking around, it looks like 4-way flashers are an issue for early
> fullsize jeeps. Here's one thread:
> 2. The Forward Forum: Re: 4 way flashers
> <URL:http://members4.boardhost.com/jeepfc/msg/8698.html>
>
> You might try there and see if they have a more elegant solution than
> mine. I recall that my `62 Econoline has 4-way flashers as a dealer
> installed option.
>
> The thread above include a link to a solution for early 60s Ramblers:
> <URL:http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/amcalberta/TechTips/TechTip4.html>
>
>
> And a last thought: You _could_ gang 2 double pole, single throw toggles
> (each pole is really a seperate switch) together and wire them up like the
> relay diagram above, with the switches between the battery and the flasher
> module, and between the flasher and the lights. It would be ugly, but it
> would work. Make sure the switches can handle the load -- don't buy those
> cute little sub-mini switches.
>
>
> Warning and disclaimer: Automotive batteries are high amperage devices
> that will happily destroy wiring, start fires and generally cause grave
> damage to vehicles, property and persons. Given a shorting conductor of
> sufficient size, batteries can explode. Understand what you are doing,
> the hazards and dangers before beginning. Any work the reader undertakes
> is entirely at his or her own risk.
>
> Hurm.
>
> OK. This is how it works: B+ power from the battery passes through a
> flasher module (those little cans that click), through a switch, on to
> each signal light filament and then to ground and back to B-.
>
> The catch is that you can't just tie all the wires to each signal light
> together at one single throw single pole, because power will then flow to
> all the lights, even though the 4-way flasher is off and you want just the
> left turn, right turn or brake lights to work. Normally, the signal light
> switch handles this by switching these functions seperately.
>
> Were it my problem, I'd find a 4 pole relay (there may be solid-state ways
> of doing this, but that is beyond my ken). Use a switch and flasher to
> control the relay (you may have to use a flasher designed for LEDs if the
> relay won't pull enough power for a thermal flasher), let the relay handle
> getting power to each signal light without tieing them all together. The
> relay will act like 4 individual switches, sending power to each light
> seperately. When the relay is open it disappears, electrically speaking,
> and normal signal and brake function is restored. You might have to
> cultivate a friend in a boneyard to find what sort of cars have the relay
> you need.
>
> B+ ----------------------------------+
> |
> B+ -----[~]--------./.---------=== +./.----------[LF]
> flasher switch === +./.----------[RF]
> === +./.----------[RR]
> B- ----=== +./.----------[LR]
> [ Relay ]
>
>
> You can tap into the signal light wires where they come out of the
> steering column. There will at least be one cold wire for each signal
> light, one hot from the signal light flasher, one from the brake light
> switch (hot only when brakes are on), one hot for the horn. The colors
> _might_ be:
>
> Pink From Emergency flasher
> Red/White From Signal flasher
> Black/White Horn relay
> Lt. Green RR turn/brake
> Lt. Green/Black LR turn/brake
> Green RF turn
> Pink From Brake Switch
> Green/Black LF turn
>
>
> Poking around, it looks like 4-way flashers are an issue for early
> fullsize jeeps. Here's one thread:
> 2. The Forward Forum: Re: 4 way flashers
> <URL:http://members4.boardhost.com/jeepfc/msg/8698.html>
>
> You might try there and see if they have a more elegant solution than
> mine. I recall that my `62 Econoline has 4-way flashers as a dealer
> installed option.
>
> The thread above include a link to a solution for early 60s Ramblers:
> <URL:http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/amcalberta/TechTips/TechTip4.html>
>
>
> And a last thought: You _could_ gang 2 double pole, single throw toggles
> (each pole is really a seperate switch) together and wire them up like the
> relay diagram above, with the switches between the battery and the flasher
> module, and between the flasher and the lights. It would be ugly, but it
> would work. Make sure the switches can handle the load -- don't buy those
> cute little sub-mini switches.
>
>
> Warning and disclaimer: Automotive batteries are high amperage devices
> that will happily destroy wiring, start fires and generally cause grave
> damage to vehicles, property and persons. Given a shorting conductor of
> sufficient size, batteries can explode. Understand what you are doing,
> the hazards and dangers before beginning. Any work the reader undertakes
> is entirely at his or her own risk.
#60
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ hazard lights
Thanks folks, for the helpful info.
>
> Hurm.
>
> OK. This is how it works: B+ power from the battery passes through a
> flasher module (those little cans that click), through a switch, on to
> each signal light filament and then to ground and back to B-.
>
> The catch is that you can't just tie all the wires to each signal light
> together at one single throw single pole, because power will then flow to
> all the lights, even though the 4-way flasher is off and you want just the
> left turn, right turn or brake lights to work. Normally, the signal light
> switch handles this by switching these functions seperately.
>
> Were it my problem, I'd find a 4 pole relay (there may be solid-state ways
> of doing this, but that is beyond my ken). Use a switch and flasher to
> control the relay (you may have to use a flasher designed for LEDs if the
> relay won't pull enough power for a thermal flasher), let the relay handle
> getting power to each signal light without tieing them all together. The
> relay will act like 4 individual switches, sending power to each light
> seperately. When the relay is open it disappears, electrically speaking,
> and normal signal and brake function is restored. You might have to
> cultivate a friend in a boneyard to find what sort of cars have the relay
> you need.
>
> B+ ----------------------------------+
> |
> B+ -----[~]--------./.---------=== +./.----------[LF]
> flasher switch === +./.----------[RF]
> === +./.----------[RR]
> B- ----=== +./.----------[LR]
> [ Relay ]
>
>
> You can tap into the signal light wires where they come out of the
> steering column. There will at least be one cold wire for each signal
> light, one hot from the signal light flasher, one from the brake light
> switch (hot only when brakes are on), one hot for the horn. The colors
> _might_ be:
>
> Pink From Emergency flasher
> Red/White From Signal flasher
> Black/White Horn relay
> Lt. Green RR turn/brake
> Lt. Green/Black LR turn/brake
> Green RF turn
> Pink From Brake Switch
> Green/Black LF turn
>
>
> Poking around, it looks like 4-way flashers are an issue for early
> fullsize jeeps. Here's one thread:
> 2. The Forward Forum: Re: 4 way flashers
> <URL:http://members4.boardhost.com/jeepfc/msg/8698.html>
>
> You might try there and see if they have a more elegant solution than
> mine. I recall that my `62 Econoline has 4-way flashers as a dealer
> installed option.
>
> The thread above include a link to a solution for early 60s Ramblers:
> <URL:http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/amcalberta/TechTips/TechTip4.html>
>
>
> And a last thought: You _could_ gang 2 double pole, single throw toggles
> (each pole is really a seperate switch) together and wire them up like the
> relay diagram above, with the switches between the battery and the flasher
> module, and between the flasher and the lights. It would be ugly, but it
> would work. Make sure the switches can handle the load -- don't buy those
> cute little sub-mini switches.
>
>
> Warning and disclaimer: Automotive batteries are high amperage devices
> that will happily destroy wiring, start fires and generally cause grave
> damage to vehicles, property and persons. Given a shorting conductor of
> sufficient size, batteries can explode. Understand what you are doing,
> the hazards and dangers before beginning. Any work the reader undertakes
> is entirely at his or her own risk.
>
> Hurm.
>
> OK. This is how it works: B+ power from the battery passes through a
> flasher module (those little cans that click), through a switch, on to
> each signal light filament and then to ground and back to B-.
>
> The catch is that you can't just tie all the wires to each signal light
> together at one single throw single pole, because power will then flow to
> all the lights, even though the 4-way flasher is off and you want just the
> left turn, right turn or brake lights to work. Normally, the signal light
> switch handles this by switching these functions seperately.
>
> Were it my problem, I'd find a 4 pole relay (there may be solid-state ways
> of doing this, but that is beyond my ken). Use a switch and flasher to
> control the relay (you may have to use a flasher designed for LEDs if the
> relay won't pull enough power for a thermal flasher), let the relay handle
> getting power to each signal light without tieing them all together. The
> relay will act like 4 individual switches, sending power to each light
> seperately. When the relay is open it disappears, electrically speaking,
> and normal signal and brake function is restored. You might have to
> cultivate a friend in a boneyard to find what sort of cars have the relay
> you need.
>
> B+ ----------------------------------+
> |
> B+ -----[~]--------./.---------=== +./.----------[LF]
> flasher switch === +./.----------[RF]
> === +./.----------[RR]
> B- ----=== +./.----------[LR]
> [ Relay ]
>
>
> You can tap into the signal light wires where they come out of the
> steering column. There will at least be one cold wire for each signal
> light, one hot from the signal light flasher, one from the brake light
> switch (hot only when brakes are on), one hot for the horn. The colors
> _might_ be:
>
> Pink From Emergency flasher
> Red/White From Signal flasher
> Black/White Horn relay
> Lt. Green RR turn/brake
> Lt. Green/Black LR turn/brake
> Green RF turn
> Pink From Brake Switch
> Green/Black LF turn
>
>
> Poking around, it looks like 4-way flashers are an issue for early
> fullsize jeeps. Here's one thread:
> 2. The Forward Forum: Re: 4 way flashers
> <URL:http://members4.boardhost.com/jeepfc/msg/8698.html>
>
> You might try there and see if they have a more elegant solution than
> mine. I recall that my `62 Econoline has 4-way flashers as a dealer
> installed option.
>
> The thread above include a link to a solution for early 60s Ramblers:
> <URL:http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/amcalberta/TechTips/TechTip4.html>
>
>
> And a last thought: You _could_ gang 2 double pole, single throw toggles
> (each pole is really a seperate switch) together and wire them up like the
> relay diagram above, with the switches between the battery and the flasher
> module, and between the flasher and the lights. It would be ugly, but it
> would work. Make sure the switches can handle the load -- don't buy those
> cute little sub-mini switches.
>
>
> Warning and disclaimer: Automotive batteries are high amperage devices
> that will happily destroy wiring, start fires and generally cause grave
> damage to vehicles, property and persons. Given a shorting conductor of
> sufficient size, batteries can explode. Understand what you are doing,
> the hazards and dangers before beginning. Any work the reader undertakes
> is entirely at his or her own risk.