CJ fuel guage questions
11-08-2003, 10:59 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ fuel guage questions
Checking the resistance of the tank sender unit is a good start. I don't
have the value handy but a good service manual would.
Earle
"Kevin Greene" <keving@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:vqq34o569ne882@corp.supernews.com...
> I'd be curious if you find an answer to this. Mine is stuck also, but on
> 'F' rather than 'E' and I'm not sure where to begin figuring out the
> problem.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FAC75FA.5F357609@***.net...
> > So did you ground the wire at the tank to see if the gauge and
> > connection are good?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last
> two
> > > lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move
> from
> > > empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the
> sender
> > > is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if
you
> > > don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it
does,
> the
> > > sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test
> will
> > > find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test
> for
> > > the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> > > Allen
> > >
> > > Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
> > >
> > > The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> > > isolated center post.
> > > The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure
it
> has
> > > good contacts.
> > >
> > > To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> > > (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should
show
> up
> > > as FULL on your gauge.
> > > No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> > > DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> > > If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an
> open
> > > circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or
its
> > > voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its
wiring
> is
> > > bad.
>
>
have the value handy but a good service manual would.
Earle
"Kevin Greene" <keving@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:vqq34o569ne882@corp.supernews.com...
> I'd be curious if you find an answer to this. Mine is stuck also, but on
> 'F' rather than 'E' and I'm not sure where to begin figuring out the
> problem.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FAC75FA.5F357609@***.net...
> > So did you ground the wire at the tank to see if the gauge and
> > connection are good?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last
> two
> > > lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move
> from
> > > empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the
> sender
> > > is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if
you
> > > don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it
does,
> the
> > > sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test
> will
> > > find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test
> for
> > > the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> > > Allen
> > >
> > > Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
> > >
> > > The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> > > isolated center post.
> > > The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure
it
> has
> > > good contacts.
> > >
> > > To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> > > (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should
show
> up
> > > as FULL on your gauge.
> > > No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> > > DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> > > If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an
> open
> > > circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or
its
> > > voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its
wiring
> is
> > > bad.
>
>
11-08-2003, 10:59 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ fuel guage questions
Checking the resistance of the tank sender unit is a good start. I don't
have the value handy but a good service manual would.
Earle
"Kevin Greene" <keving@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:vqq34o569ne882@corp.supernews.com...
> I'd be curious if you find an answer to this. Mine is stuck also, but on
> 'F' rather than 'E' and I'm not sure where to begin figuring out the
> problem.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FAC75FA.5F357609@***.net...
> > So did you ground the wire at the tank to see if the gauge and
> > connection are good?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last
> two
> > > lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move
> from
> > > empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the
> sender
> > > is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if
you
> > > don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it
does,
> the
> > > sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test
> will
> > > find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test
> for
> > > the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> > > Allen
> > >
> > > Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
> > >
> > > The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> > > isolated center post.
> > > The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure
it
> has
> > > good contacts.
> > >
> > > To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> > > (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should
show
> up
> > > as FULL on your gauge.
> > > No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> > > DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> > > If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an
> open
> > > circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or
its
> > > voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its
wiring
> is
> > > bad.
>
>
have the value handy but a good service manual would.
Earle
"Kevin Greene" <keving@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:vqq34o569ne882@corp.supernews.com...
> I'd be curious if you find an answer to this. Mine is stuck also, but on
> 'F' rather than 'E' and I'm not sure where to begin figuring out the
> problem.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FAC75FA.5F357609@***.net...
> > So did you ground the wire at the tank to see if the gauge and
> > connection are good?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last
> two
> > > lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move
> from
> > > empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the
> sender
> > > is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if
you
> > > don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it
does,
> the
> > > sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test
> will
> > > find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test
> for
> > > the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> > > Allen
> > >
> > > Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
> > >
> > > The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> > > isolated center post.
> > > The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure
it
> has
> > > good contacts.
> > >
> > > To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> > > (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should
show
> up
> > > as FULL on your gauge.
> > > No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> > > DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> > > If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an
> open
> > > circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or
its
> > > voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its
wiring
> is
> > > bad.
>
>
11-08-2003, 10:59 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ fuel guage questions
Checking the resistance of the tank sender unit is a good start. I don't
have the value handy but a good service manual would.
Earle
"Kevin Greene" <keving@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:vqq34o569ne882@corp.supernews.com...
> I'd be curious if you find an answer to this. Mine is stuck also, but on
> 'F' rather than 'E' and I'm not sure where to begin figuring out the
> problem.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FAC75FA.5F357609@***.net...
> > So did you ground the wire at the tank to see if the gauge and
> > connection are good?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last
> two
> > > lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move
> from
> > > empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the
> sender
> > > is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if
you
> > > don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it
does,
> the
> > > sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test
> will
> > > find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test
> for
> > > the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> > > Allen
> > >
> > > Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
> > >
> > > The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> > > isolated center post.
> > > The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure
it
> has
> > > good contacts.
> > >
> > > To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> > > (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should
show
> up
> > > as FULL on your gauge.
> > > No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> > > DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> > > If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an
> open
> > > circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or
its
> > > voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its
wiring
> is
> > > bad.
>
>
have the value handy but a good service manual would.
Earle
"Kevin Greene" <keving@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:vqq34o569ne882@corp.supernews.com...
> I'd be curious if you find an answer to this. Mine is stuck also, but on
> 'F' rather than 'E' and I'm not sure where to begin figuring out the
> problem.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FAC75FA.5F357609@***.net...
> > So did you ground the wire at the tank to see if the gauge and
> > connection are good?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last
> two
> > > lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move
> from
> > > empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the
> sender
> > > is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if
you
> > > don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it
does,
> the
> > > sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test
> will
> > > find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test
> for
> > > the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> > > Allen
> > >
> > > Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
> > >
> > > The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> > > isolated center post.
> > > The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure
it
> has
> > > good contacts.
> > >
> > > To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> > > (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should
show
> up
> > > as FULL on your gauge.
> > > No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> > > DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> > > If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an
> open
> > > circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or
its
> > > voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its
wiring
> is
> > > bad.
>
>
11-08-2003, 11:54 AM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ fuel guage questions
Something is broke or you wouldn't be playing around with it.
If you ground out the gauge and it moves, then the gauge is working
fine.
If the gauge doesn't move, it is bad.
If the gauge is fine, then the sender has issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last two
> lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move from
> empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the sender
> is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if you
> don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it does, the
> sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test will
> find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test for
> the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> Allen
>
> Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
>
> The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> isolated center post.
> The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure it has
> good contacts.
>
> To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should show up
> as FULL on your gauge.
> No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an open
> circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or its
> voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its wiring is
> bad.
If you ground out the gauge and it moves, then the gauge is working
fine.
If the gauge doesn't move, it is bad.
If the gauge is fine, then the sender has issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last two
> lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move from
> empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the sender
> is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if you
> don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it does, the
> sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test will
> find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test for
> the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> Allen
>
> Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
>
> The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> isolated center post.
> The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure it has
> good contacts.
>
> To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should show up
> as FULL on your gauge.
> No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an open
> circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or its
> voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its wiring is
> bad.
11-08-2003, 11:54 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ fuel guage questions
Something is broke or you wouldn't be playing around with it.
If you ground out the gauge and it moves, then the gauge is working
fine.
If the gauge doesn't move, it is bad.
If the gauge is fine, then the sender has issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last two
> lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move from
> empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the sender
> is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if you
> don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it does, the
> sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test will
> find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test for
> the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> Allen
>
> Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
>
> The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> isolated center post.
> The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure it has
> good contacts.
>
> To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should show up
> as FULL on your gauge.
> No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an open
> circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or its
> voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its wiring is
> bad.
If you ground out the gauge and it moves, then the gauge is working
fine.
If the gauge doesn't move, it is bad.
If the gauge is fine, then the sender has issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last two
> lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move from
> empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the sender
> is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if you
> don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it does, the
> sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test will
> find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test for
> the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> Allen
>
> Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
>
> The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> isolated center post.
> The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure it has
> good contacts.
>
> To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should show up
> as FULL on your gauge.
> No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an open
> circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or its
> voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its wiring is
> bad.
11-08-2003, 11:54 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ fuel guage questions
Something is broke or you wouldn't be playing around with it.
If you ground out the gauge and it moves, then the gauge is working
fine.
If the gauge doesn't move, it is bad.
If the gauge is fine, then the sender has issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last two
> lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move from
> empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the sender
> is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if you
> don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it does, the
> sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test will
> find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test for
> the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> Allen
>
> Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
>
> The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> isolated center post.
> The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure it has
> good contacts.
>
> To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should show up
> as FULL on your gauge.
> No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an open
> circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or its
> voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its wiring is
> bad.
If you ground out the gauge and it moves, then the gauge is working
fine.
If the gauge doesn't move, it is bad.
If the gauge is fine, then the sender has issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last two
> lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move from
> empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the sender
> is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if you
> don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it does, the
> sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test will
> find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test for
> the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> Allen
>
> Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
>
> The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> isolated center post.
> The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure it has
> good contacts.
>
> To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should show up
> as FULL on your gauge.
> No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an open
> circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or its
> voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its wiring is
> bad.
11-08-2003, 11:54 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ fuel guage questions
Try here:
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Kevin Greene wrote:
>
> I'd be curious if you find an answer to this. Mine is stuck also, but on
> 'F' rather than 'E' and I'm not sure where to begin figuring out the
> problem.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FAC75FA.5F357609@***.net...
> > So did you ground the wire at the tank to see if the gauge and
> > connection are good?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last
> two
> > > lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move
> from
> > > empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the
> sender
> > > is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if you
> > > don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it does,
> the
> > > sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test
> will
> > > find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test
> for
> > > the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> > > Allen
> > >
> > > Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
> > >
> > > The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> > > isolated center post.
> > > The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure it
> has
> > > good contacts.
> > >
> > > To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> > > (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should show
> up
> > > as FULL on your gauge.
> > > No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> > > DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> > > If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an
> open
> > > circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or its
> > > voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its wiring
> is
> > > bad.
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Kevin Greene wrote:
>
> I'd be curious if you find an answer to this. Mine is stuck also, but on
> 'F' rather than 'E' and I'm not sure where to begin figuring out the
> problem.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FAC75FA.5F357609@***.net...
> > So did you ground the wire at the tank to see if the gauge and
> > connection are good?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last
> two
> > > lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move
> from
> > > empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the
> sender
> > > is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if you
> > > don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it does,
> the
> > > sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test
> will
> > > find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test
> for
> > > the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> > > Allen
> > >
> > > Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
> > >
> > > The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> > > isolated center post.
> > > The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure it
> has
> > > good contacts.
> > >
> > > To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> > > (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should show
> up
> > > as FULL on your gauge.
> > > No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> > > DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> > > If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an
> open
> > > circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or its
> > > voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its wiring
> is
> > > bad.
11-08-2003, 11:54 AM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ fuel guage questions
Try here:
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Kevin Greene wrote:
>
> I'd be curious if you find an answer to this. Mine is stuck also, but on
> 'F' rather than 'E' and I'm not sure where to begin figuring out the
> problem.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FAC75FA.5F357609@***.net...
> > So did you ground the wire at the tank to see if the gauge and
> > connection are good?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last
> two
> > > lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move
> from
> > > empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the
> sender
> > > is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if you
> > > don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it does,
> the
> > > sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test
> will
> > > find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test
> for
> > > the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> > > Allen
> > >
> > > Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
> > >
> > > The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> > > isolated center post.
> > > The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure it
> has
> > > good contacts.
> > >
> > > To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> > > (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should show
> up
> > > as FULL on your gauge.
> > > No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> > > DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> > > If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an
> open
> > > circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or its
> > > voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its wiring
> is
> > > bad.
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Kevin Greene wrote:
>
> I'd be curious if you find an answer to this. Mine is stuck also, but on
> 'F' rather than 'E' and I'm not sure where to begin figuring out the
> problem.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FAC75FA.5F357609@***.net...
> > So did you ground the wire at the tank to see if the gauge and
> > connection are good?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last
> two
> > > lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move
> from
> > > empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the
> sender
> > > is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if you
> > > don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it does,
> the
> > > sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test
> will
> > > find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test
> for
> > > the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> > > Allen
> > >
> > > Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
> > >
> > > The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> > > isolated center post.
> > > The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure it
> has
> > > good contacts.
> > >
> > > To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> > > (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should show
> up
> > > as FULL on your gauge.
> > > No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> > > DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> > > If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an
> open
> > > circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or its
> > > voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its wiring
> is
> > > bad.
11-08-2003, 11:54 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ fuel guage questions
Try here:
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Kevin Greene wrote:
>
> I'd be curious if you find an answer to this. Mine is stuck also, but on
> 'F' rather than 'E' and I'm not sure where to begin figuring out the
> problem.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FAC75FA.5F357609@***.net...
> > So did you ground the wire at the tank to see if the gauge and
> > connection are good?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last
> two
> > > lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move
> from
> > > empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the
> sender
> > > is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if you
> > > don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it does,
> the
> > > sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test
> will
> > > find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test
> for
> > > the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> > > Allen
> > >
> > > Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
> > >
> > > The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> > > isolated center post.
> > > The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure it
> has
> > > good contacts.
> > >
> > > To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> > > (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should show
> up
> > > as FULL on your gauge.
> > > No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> > > DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> > > If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an
> open
> > > circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or its
> > > voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its wiring
> is
> > > bad.
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Kevin Greene wrote:
>
> I'd be curious if you find an answer to this. Mine is stuck also, but on
> 'F' rather than 'E' and I'm not sure where to begin figuring out the
> problem.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FAC75FA.5F357609@***.net...
> > So did you ground the wire at the tank to see if the gauge and
> > connection are good?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Got this from a good web site someone recommended here. Read the last
> two
> > > lines for testing. It says in a nut shell, if the guage does not move
> from
> > > empty, the guage is bad. The next line then says if it does move, the
> sender
> > > is bad. So if I do this test it reads damned if you do and damned if you
> > > don't. Do the test and the needle should or shouldn't move. If it does,
> the
> > > sender is bad. If it doens't the guage is bad. So either way this test
> will
> > > find something bad. I don't get it. Anyone know of a more simple test
> for
> > > the sender and the guage??? I'm totally confused by this one.
> > > Allen
> > >
> > > Testing the Fuel Sender unit on a CJ
> > >
> > > The sender should have one wire (pink) with voltage from the sensor's
> > > isolated center post.
> > > The tab style connector and wire is a ground to the frame. Make sure it
> has
> > > good contacts.
> > >
> > > To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the
> > > (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should show
> up
> > > as FULL on your gauge.
> > > No resistance at all will peg the needle FULL (the whole 12 volts).
> > > DO NOT hold it long in this position - just touch it and release.
> > > If the gauge does not move from EMPTY either the gauge's wiring has an
> open
> > > circuit (no voltage, or no connection to ground) or he gauge and/or its
> > > voltage regulator is bad. If it does move, the sender unit or its wiring
> is
> > > bad.
11-08-2003, 12:59 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ fuel guage questions
The sending unit in the tank is just a big variable resistor. At full the
gauge gets full current, as the float drops the current runs through
gradually increasing resistance until it reads empty. So, that's why with
the key off the gauge goes to ")"....no juice.
On the back of the gauge check to see if there's any current at the red wire
to the furl gauge. If it does have current, then it's likely not getting a
ground signal through the sender. Run a jumper-wire ground from the pink
wire on the gauge to any good ground. If the gauge goes to full, the sender
or it's wiring is faulty.
gauge gets full current, as the float drops the current runs through
gradually increasing resistance until it reads empty. So, that's why with
the key off the gauge goes to ")"....no juice.
On the back of the gauge check to see if there's any current at the red wire
to the furl gauge. If it does have current, then it's likely not getting a
ground signal through the sender. Run a jumper-wire ground from the pink
wire on the gauge to any good ground. If the gauge goes to full, the sender
or it's wiring is faulty.
