CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
06-05-2004, 10:33 PM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Does your gas gauge work?
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>say this...).
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>
>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>
>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>
>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>
>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>
>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>
>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>
>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Rob wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>
>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>
>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>
>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Does your gas gauge work?
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>say this...).
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>
>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>
>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>
>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>
>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>
>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>
>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>
>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Rob wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>
>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>
>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>
>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
06-05-2004, 10:33 PM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Does your gas gauge work?
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>say this...).
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>
>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>
>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>
>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>
>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>
>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>
>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>
>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Rob wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>
>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>
>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>
>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Does your gas gauge work?
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>say this...).
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>
>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>
>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>
>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>
>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>
>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>
>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>
>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Rob wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>
>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>
>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>
>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
06-05-2004, 10:33 PM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Does your gas gauge work?
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>say this...).
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>
>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>
>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>
>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>
>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>
>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>
>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>
>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Rob wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>
>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>
>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>
>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Does your gas gauge work?
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>say this...).
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>
>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>
>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>
>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>
>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>
>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>
>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>
>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Rob wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>
>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>
>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>
>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
06-06-2004, 10:43 AM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Does your gas gauge work?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>say this...).
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>
> >>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>
> >>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>
> >>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>
> >>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>
> >>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>
> >>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>
> >>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Rob wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>
> >>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>
> >>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>
> >>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>'83 CJ-7
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Does your gas gauge work?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>say this...).
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>
> >>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>
> >>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>
> >>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>
> >>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>
> >>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>
> >>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>
> >>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Rob wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>
> >>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>
> >>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>
> >>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>'83 CJ-7
06-06-2004, 10:43 AM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Does your gas gauge work?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>say this...).
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>
> >>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>
> >>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>
> >>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>
> >>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>
> >>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>
> >>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>
> >>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Rob wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>
> >>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>
> >>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>
> >>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>'83 CJ-7
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Does your gas gauge work?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>say this...).
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>
> >>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>
> >>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>
> >>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>
> >>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>
> >>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>
> >>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>
> >>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Rob wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>
> >>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>
> >>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>
> >>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>'83 CJ-7
06-06-2004, 10:43 AM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Does your gas gauge work?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>say this...).
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>
> >>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>
> >>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>
> >>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>
> >>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>
> >>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>
> >>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>
> >>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Rob wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>
> >>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>
> >>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>
> >>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>'83 CJ-7
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Does your gas gauge work?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>say this...).
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>
> >>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>
> >>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>
> >>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>
> >>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>
> >>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>
> >>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>
> >>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Rob wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>
> >>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>
> >>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>
> >>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>'83 CJ-7
06-06-2004, 10:43 AM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Does your gas gauge work?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>say this...).
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>
> >>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>
> >>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>
> >>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>
> >>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>
> >>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>
> >>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>
> >>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Rob wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>
> >>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>
> >>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>
> >>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>'83 CJ-7
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Does your gas gauge work?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>say this...).
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>
> >>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>
> >>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>
> >>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>
> >>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>
> >>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>
> >>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>
> >>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Rob wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>
> >>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>
> >>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>
> >>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>'83 CJ-7
06-06-2004, 01:59 PM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
I will. It's weird because if memory serves, it's a two piece unit...
I'll have to snap a pic...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
>> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Does your gas gauge work?
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>>>say this...).
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>>>
>>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>>>
>>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>>>
>>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>>>
>>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>>>
>>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>>>
>>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>>>
>>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>
>>>>>Rob wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>
>>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
I'll have to snap a pic...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
>> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Does your gas gauge work?
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>>>say this...).
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>>>
>>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>>>
>>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>>>
>>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>>>
>>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>>>
>>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>>>
>>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>>>
>>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>
>>>>>Rob wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>
>>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
06-06-2004, 01:59 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
I will. It's weird because if memory serves, it's a two piece unit...
I'll have to snap a pic...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
>> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Does your gas gauge work?
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>>>say this...).
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>>>
>>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>>>
>>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>>>
>>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>>>
>>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>>>
>>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>>>
>>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>>>
>>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>
>>>>>Rob wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>
>>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
I'll have to snap a pic...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
>> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Does your gas gauge work?
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>>>say this...).
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>>>
>>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>>>
>>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>>>
>>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>>>
>>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>>>
>>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>>>
>>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>>>
>>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>
>>>>>Rob wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>
>>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
06-06-2004, 01:59 PM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
I will. It's weird because if memory serves, it's a two piece unit...
I'll have to snap a pic...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
>> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Does your gas gauge work?
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>>>say this...).
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>>>
>>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>>>
>>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>>>
>>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>>>
>>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>>>
>>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>>>
>>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>>>
>>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>
>>>>>Rob wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>
>>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
I'll have to snap a pic...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
>> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Does your gas gauge work?
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>>>say this...).
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>>>
>>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>>>
>>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>>>
>>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>>>
>>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>>>
>>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>>>
>>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>>>
>>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>
>>>>>Rob wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>
>>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7