CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
Real jeeps don't need wires...
Rob wrote:
> The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>
> The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> switch!!!
>
> I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>
> The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>
> Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>
>
> Rob
> '83 CJ-7
Rob wrote:
> The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>
> The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> switch!!!
>
> I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>
> The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>
> Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>
>
> Rob
> '83 CJ-7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
say this...).
Mike Romain wrote:
> And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>
> You are describing ground stealing.
>
> First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>
> Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> rusty bolts out?)
>
> The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> grill for the front lights.
>
> The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>
> Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>
> 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Rob wrote:
>
>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>at all. Egads!
>>
>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>
>>Rob
>>
>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>
>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>
>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>switch!!!
>>>>
>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>
>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>
>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>'83 CJ-7
dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
say this...).
Mike Romain wrote:
> And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>
> You are describing ground stealing.
>
> First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>
> Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> rusty bolts out?)
>
> The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> grill for the front lights.
>
> The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>
> Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>
> 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Rob wrote:
>
>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>at all. Egads!
>>
>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>
>>Rob
>>
>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>
>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>
>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>switch!!!
>>>>
>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>
>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>
>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>'83 CJ-7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
say this...).
Mike Romain wrote:
> And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>
> You are describing ground stealing.
>
> First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>
> Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> rusty bolts out?)
>
> The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> grill for the front lights.
>
> The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>
> Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>
> 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Rob wrote:
>
>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>at all. Egads!
>>
>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>
>>Rob
>>
>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>
>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>
>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>switch!!!
>>>>
>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>
>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>
>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>'83 CJ-7
dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
say this...).
Mike Romain wrote:
> And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>
> You are describing ground stealing.
>
> First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>
> Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> rusty bolts out?)
>
> The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> grill for the front lights.
>
> The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>
> Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>
> 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Rob wrote:
>
>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>at all. Egads!
>>
>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>
>>Rob
>>
>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>
>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>
>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>switch!!!
>>>>
>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>
>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>
>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>'83 CJ-7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
say this...).
Mike Romain wrote:
> And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>
> You are describing ground stealing.
>
> First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>
> Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> rusty bolts out?)
>
> The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> grill for the front lights.
>
> The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>
> Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>
> 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Rob wrote:
>
>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>at all. Egads!
>>
>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>
>>Rob
>>
>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>
>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>
>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>switch!!!
>>>>
>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>
>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>
>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>'83 CJ-7
dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
say this...).
Mike Romain wrote:
> And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>
> You are describing ground stealing.
>
> First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>
> Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> rusty bolts out?)
>
> The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> grill for the front lights.
>
> The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>
> Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>
> 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Rob wrote:
>
>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>at all. Egads!
>>
>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>
>>Rob
>>
>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>
>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>
>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>switch!!!
>>>>
>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>
>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>
>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>'83 CJ-7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
say this...).
Mike Romain wrote:
> And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>
> You are describing ground stealing.
>
> First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>
> Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> rusty bolts out?)
>
> The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> grill for the front lights.
>
> The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>
> Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>
> 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Rob wrote:
>
>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>at all. Egads!
>>
>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>
>>Rob
>>
>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>
>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>
>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>switch!!!
>>>>
>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>
>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>
>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>'83 CJ-7
dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
say this...).
Mike Romain wrote:
> And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>
> You are describing ground stealing.
>
> First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>
> Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> rusty bolts out?)
>
> The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> grill for the front lights.
>
> The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>
> Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>
> 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Rob wrote:
>
>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>at all. Egads!
>>
>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>
>>Rob
>>
>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>
>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>
>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>switch!!!
>>>>
>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>
>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>
>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>'83 CJ-7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
Does your gas gauge work?
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> say this...).
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >
> > You are describing ground stealing.
> >
> > First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> > the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> > goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >
> > Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> > it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> > the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> > make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> > side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> > directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> > when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> > rusty bolts out?)
> >
> > The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> > on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> > grill for the front lights.
> >
> > The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> > few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >
> > Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >
> > 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Rob wrote:
> >
> >>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>at all. Egads!
> >>
> >>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>
> >>Rob
> >>
> >>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>
> >>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>
> >>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>switch!!!
> >>>>
> >>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>
> >>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>
> >>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>'83 CJ-7
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> say this...).
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >
> > You are describing ground stealing.
> >
> > First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> > the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> > goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >
> > Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> > it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> > the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> > make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> > side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> > directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> > when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> > rusty bolts out?)
> >
> > The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> > on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> > grill for the front lights.
> >
> > The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> > few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >
> > Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >
> > 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Rob wrote:
> >
> >>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>at all. Egads!
> >>
> >>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>
> >>Rob
> >>
> >>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>
> >>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>
> >>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>switch!!!
> >>>>
> >>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>
> >>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>
> >>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>'83 CJ-7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
Does your gas gauge work?
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> say this...).
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >
> > You are describing ground stealing.
> >
> > First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> > the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> > goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >
> > Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> > it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> > the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> > make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> > side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> > directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> > when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> > rusty bolts out?)
> >
> > The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> > on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> > grill for the front lights.
> >
> > The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> > few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >
> > Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >
> > 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Rob wrote:
> >
> >>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>at all. Egads!
> >>
> >>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>
> >>Rob
> >>
> >>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>
> >>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>
> >>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>switch!!!
> >>>>
> >>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>
> >>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>
> >>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>'83 CJ-7
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> say this...).
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >
> > You are describing ground stealing.
> >
> > First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> > the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> > goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >
> > Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> > it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> > the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> > make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> > side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> > directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> > when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> > rusty bolts out?)
> >
> > The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> > on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> > grill for the front lights.
> >
> > The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> > few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >
> > Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >
> > 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Rob wrote:
> >
> >>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>at all. Egads!
> >>
> >>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>
> >>Rob
> >>
> >>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>
> >>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>
> >>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>switch!!!
> >>>>
> >>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>
> >>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>
> >>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>'83 CJ-7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
Does your gas gauge work?
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> say this...).
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >
> > You are describing ground stealing.
> >
> > First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> > the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> > goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >
> > Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> > it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> > the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> > make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> > side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> > directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> > when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> > rusty bolts out?)
> >
> > The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> > on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> > grill for the front lights.
> >
> > The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> > few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >
> > Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >
> > 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Rob wrote:
> >
> >>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>at all. Egads!
> >>
> >>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>
> >>Rob
> >>
> >>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>
> >>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>
> >>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>switch!!!
> >>>>
> >>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>
> >>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>
> >>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>'83 CJ-7
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> say this...).
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >
> > You are describing ground stealing.
> >
> > First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> > the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> > goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >
> > Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> > it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> > the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> > make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> > side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> > directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> > when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> > rusty bolts out?)
> >
> > The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> > on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> > grill for the front lights.
> >
> > The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> > few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >
> > Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >
> > 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Rob wrote:
> >
> >>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>at all. Egads!
> >>
> >>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>
> >>Rob
> >>
> >>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>
> >>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>
> >>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>switch!!!
> >>>>
> >>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>
> >>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>
> >>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>'83 CJ-7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
Does your gas gauge work?
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> say this...).
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >
> > You are describing ground stealing.
> >
> > First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> > the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> > goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >
> > Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> > it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> > the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> > make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> > side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> > directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> > when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> > rusty bolts out?)
> >
> > The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> > on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> > grill for the front lights.
> >
> > The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> > few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >
> > Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >
> > 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Rob wrote:
> >
> >>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>at all. Egads!
> >>
> >>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>
> >>Rob
> >>
> >>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>
> >>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>
> >>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>switch!!!
> >>>>
> >>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>
> >>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>
> >>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>'83 CJ-7
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> say this...).
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >
> > You are describing ground stealing.
> >
> > First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> > the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> > goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >
> > Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> > it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> > the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> > make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> > side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> > directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> > when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> > rusty bolts out?)
> >
> > The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> > on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> > grill for the front lights.
> >
> > The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> > few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >
> > Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >
> > 'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Rob wrote:
> >
> >>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>at all. Egads!
> >>
> >>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>
> >>Rob
> >>
> >>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>
> >>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>
> >>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>switch!!!
> >>>>
> >>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>
> >>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>
> >>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>Rob
> >>>>'83 CJ-7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Does your gas gauge work?
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>say this...).
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>
>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>
>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>
>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>
>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>
>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>
>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>
>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Rob wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>
>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>
>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>
>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Does your gas gauge work?
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>say this...).
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>
>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>
>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>
>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>
>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>
>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>
>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>
>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Rob wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>
>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>
>>>>Rob
>>>>
>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>
>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
