And likely an easy couple of fixes too.

You are describing ground stealing.

First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.

Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
rusty bolts out?)

The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
grill for the front lights.

The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.

Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.

'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Rob wrote:
>
> And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> at all. Egads!
>
> I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>
> Rob
>
> On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> <aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>
> >oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >
> >In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> > Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >
> >> The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >> weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>
> >> The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >> brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >> using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >> some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >> switch!!!
> >>
> >> I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >> and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>
> >> The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >> wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >> more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>
> >> Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >> but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>
> >>
> >> Rob
> >> '83 CJ-7

 

And likely an easy couple of fixes too.

You are describing ground stealing.

First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.

Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
rusty bolts out?)

The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
grill for the front lights.

The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.

Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.

'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Rob wrote:
>
> And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> at all. Egads!
>
> I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>
> Rob
>
> On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> <aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>
> >oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >
> >In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> > Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >
> >> The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >> weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>
> >> The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >> brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >> using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >> some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >> switch!!!
> >>
> >> I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >> and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>
> >> The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >> wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >> more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>
> >> Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >> but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>
> >>
> >> Rob
> >> '83 CJ-7

 

And likely an easy couple of fixes too.

You are describing ground stealing.

First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.

Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
rusty bolts out?)

The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
grill for the front lights.

The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.

Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.

'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Rob wrote:
>
> And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> at all. Egads!
>
> I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>
> Rob
>
> On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> <aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>
> >oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >
> >In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> > Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >
> >> The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >> weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>
> >> The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >> brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >> using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >> some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >> switch!!!
> >>
> >> I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >> and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>
> >> The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >> wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >> more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>
> >> Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >> but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>
> >>
> >> Rob
> >> '83 CJ-7

 

Excellent ... thanks for the suggestion. I'll let you know what I
find out.

The motor was replaced about 8-9 years ago, and a paint job about 5
years ago. The owner did it all himself and replaced a bunch of parts
in the process. His wiring job, for example, looks horrendous!!

I hope your suggestions will keep me from "going in". It's scary!


On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 10:39:51 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>
>You are describing ground stealing.
>
>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>
>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>rusty bolts out?)
>
>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>grill for the front lights.
>
>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>
>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>
>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Rob wrote:
>>
>> And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>> seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>> at all. Egads!
>>
>> I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>> stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>> low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>> beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>> on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>> course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>> this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>> <aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>
>> >oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>> >with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>> >speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>> >accidentally bumped is now loose...
>> >
>> >In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>> > Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>> >> weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>> >>
>> >> The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>> >> brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>> >> using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>> >> some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>> >> switch!!!
>> >>
>> >> I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>> >> and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>> >>
>> >> The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>> >> wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>> >> more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>> >>
>> >> Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>> >> but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Rob
>> >> '83 CJ-7

 

Excellent ... thanks for the suggestion. I'll let you know what I
find out.

The motor was replaced about 8-9 years ago, and a paint job about 5
years ago. The owner did it all himself and replaced a bunch of parts
in the process. His wiring job, for example, looks horrendous!!

I hope your suggestions will keep me from "going in". It's scary!


On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 10:39:51 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>
>You are describing ground stealing.
>
>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>
>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>rusty bolts out?)
>
>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>grill for the front lights.
>
>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>
>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>
>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Rob wrote:
>>
>> And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>> seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>> at all. Egads!
>>
>> I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>> stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>> low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>> beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>> on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>> course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>> this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>> <aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>
>> >oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>> >with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>> >speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>> >accidentally bumped is now loose...
>> >
>> >In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>> > Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>> >> weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>> >>
>> >> The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>> >> brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>> >> using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>> >> some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>> >> switch!!!
>> >>
>> >> I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>> >> and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>> >>
>> >> The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>> >> wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>> >> more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>> >>
>> >> Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>> >> but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Rob
>> >> '83 CJ-7

 

Excellent ... thanks for the suggestion. I'll let you know what I
find out.

The motor was replaced about 8-9 years ago, and a paint job about 5
years ago. The owner did it all himself and replaced a bunch of parts
in the process. His wiring job, for example, looks horrendous!!

I hope your suggestions will keep me from "going in". It's scary!


On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 10:39:51 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>
>You are describing ground stealing.
>
>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>
>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>rusty bolts out?)
>
>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>grill for the front lights.
>
>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>
>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>
>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Rob wrote:
>>
>> And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>> seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>> at all. Egads!
>>
>> I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>> stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>> low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>> beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>> on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>> course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>> this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>> <aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>
>> >oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>> >with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>> >speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>> >accidentally bumped is now loose...
>> >
>> >In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>> > Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>> >> weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>> >>
>> >> The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>> >> brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>> >> using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>> >> some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>> >> switch!!!
>> >>
>> >> I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>> >> and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>> >>
>> >> The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>> >> wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>> >> more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>> >>
>> >> Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>> >> but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Rob
>> >> '83 CJ-7

 

Excellent ... thanks for the suggestion. I'll let you know what I
find out.

The motor was replaced about 8-9 years ago, and a paint job about 5
years ago. The owner did it all himself and replaced a bunch of parts
in the process. His wiring job, for example, looks horrendous!!

I hope your suggestions will keep me from "going in". It's scary!


On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 10:39:51 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>
>You are describing ground stealing.
>
>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>
>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>rusty bolts out?)
>
>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>grill for the front lights.
>
>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>
>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>
>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Rob wrote:
>>
>> And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>> seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>> at all. Egads!
>>
>> I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>> stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>> low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>> beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>> on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>> course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>> this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>> <aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>
>> >oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>> >with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>> >speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>> >accidentally bumped is now loose...
>> >
>> >In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>> > Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>> >> weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>> >>
>> >> The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>> >> brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>> >> using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>> >> some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>> >> switch!!!
>> >>
>> >> I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>> >> and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>> >>
>> >> The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>> >> wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>> >> more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>> >>
>> >> Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>> >> but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Rob
>> >> '83 CJ-7

 

Real jeeps don't need wires...

Rob wrote:

> The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>
> The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> switch!!!
>
> I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>
> The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>
> Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>
>
> Rob
> '83 CJ-7

 

Real jeeps don't need wires...

Rob wrote:

> The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>
> The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> switch!!!
>
> I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>
> The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>
> Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>
>
> Rob
> '83 CJ-7

 

Real jeeps don't need wires...

Rob wrote:

> The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>
> The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> switch!!!
>
> I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>
> The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>
> Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>
>
> Rob
> '83 CJ-7