|
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I used loctite on mine and they stayed put.
Mike RoyJ wrote: > > 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts) > > c wrote: > > One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing > > fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on > > thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 > > ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. > > > > Chris > > > > <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message > > news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... > > > >>Mike, > >> > >>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > >>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > >>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > >>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > >>then. > >> > >>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > >>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > >>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > >>using lock washers). > >>-- > >>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>to > >> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >> > >>Mike Romain wrote: > >> > >>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > >>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > >>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > >>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > >>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > >>> > >>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > >>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > >>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > >>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > >>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > >>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > >>> > >>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > >>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > >>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > >>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > >>>ft lb for 'me'.... > >>> > >>>Mike > >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > >>> > >>>michael.white@charter.net wrote: > >>> > >>>>Hi all, > >>>> > >>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > >>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > >>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > >>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > >>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > >>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > >>>> > >>>>Thanks. > >>>>-- > >>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>>>to > >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >> > > > > |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I used loctite on mine and they stayed put.
Mike RoyJ wrote: > > 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts) > > c wrote: > > One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing > > fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on > > thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 > > ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. > > > > Chris > > > > <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message > > news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... > > > >>Mike, > >> > >>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > >>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > >>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > >>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > >>then. > >> > >>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > >>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > >>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > >>using lock washers). > >>-- > >>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>to > >> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >> > >>Mike Romain wrote: > >> > >>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > >>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > >>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > >>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > >>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > >>> > >>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > >>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > >>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > >>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > >>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > >>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > >>> > >>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > >>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > >>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > >>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > >>>ft lb for 'me'.... > >>> > >>>Mike > >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > >>> > >>>michael.white@charter.net wrote: > >>> > >>>>Hi all, > >>>> > >>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > >>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > >>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > >>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > >>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > >>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > >>>> > >>>>Thanks. > >>>>-- > >>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>>>to > >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >> > > > > |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Or, as my brother calls it, "instant rust". On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Mike Romain wrote: > I used loctite on mine and they stayed put. > > Mike > > RoyJ wrote: >> >> 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts) >> >> c wrote: >>> One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing >>> fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on >>> thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 >>> ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message >>> news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... >>> >>>> Mike, >>>> >>>> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far >>>> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have >>>> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I >>>> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt >>>> then. >>>> >>>> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's >>>> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want >>>> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also >>>> using lock washers). >>>> -- >>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>>> to >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >>>> >>>> Mike Romain wrote: >>>> >>>>> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so >>>>> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space >>>>> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch >>>>> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot >>>>> binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... >>>>> >>>>> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit >>>>> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a >>>>> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose >>>>> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom >>>>> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched >>>>> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. >>>>> >>>>> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think >>>>> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it >>>>> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed >>>>> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 >>>>> ft lb for 'me'.... >>>>> >>>>> Mike >>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 >>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>>>> >>>>> michael.white@charter.net wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Hi all, >>>>>> >>>>>> I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 >>>>>> Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service >>>>>> manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all >>>>>> the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and >>>>>> nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new >>>>>> urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks. >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>>>>> to >>>>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >>>> >>> >>> > -- "I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with whips....r" R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days. |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Or, as my brother calls it, "instant rust". On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Mike Romain wrote: > I used loctite on mine and they stayed put. > > Mike > > RoyJ wrote: >> >> 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts) >> >> c wrote: >>> One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing >>> fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on >>> thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 >>> ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message >>> news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... >>> >>>> Mike, >>>> >>>> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far >>>> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have >>>> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I >>>> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt >>>> then. >>>> >>>> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's >>>> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want >>>> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also >>>> using lock washers). >>>> -- >>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>>> to >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >>>> >>>> Mike Romain wrote: >>>> >>>>> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so >>>>> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space >>>>> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch >>>>> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot >>>>> binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... >>>>> >>>>> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit >>>>> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a >>>>> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose >>>>> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom >>>>> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched >>>>> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. >>>>> >>>>> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think >>>>> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it >>>>> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed >>>>> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 >>>>> ft lb for 'me'.... >>>>> >>>>> Mike >>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 >>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>>>> >>>>> michael.white@charter.net wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Hi all, >>>>>> >>>>>> I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 >>>>>> Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service >>>>>> manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all >>>>>> the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and >>>>>> nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new >>>>>> urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks. >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>>>>> to >>>>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >>>> >>> >>> > -- "I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with whips....r" R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days. |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Or, as my brother calls it, "instant rust". On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Mike Romain wrote: > I used loctite on mine and they stayed put. > > Mike > > RoyJ wrote: >> >> 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts) >> >> c wrote: >>> One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing >>> fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on >>> thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 >>> ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message >>> news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... >>> >>>> Mike, >>>> >>>> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far >>>> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have >>>> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I >>>> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt >>>> then. >>>> >>>> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's >>>> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want >>>> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also >>>> using lock washers). >>>> -- >>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>>> to >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >>>> >>>> Mike Romain wrote: >>>> >>>>> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so >>>>> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space >>>>> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch >>>>> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot >>>>> binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... >>>>> >>>>> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit >>>>> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a >>>>> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose >>>>> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom >>>>> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched >>>>> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. >>>>> >>>>> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think >>>>> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it >>>>> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed >>>>> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 >>>>> ft lb for 'me'.... >>>>> >>>>> Mike >>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 >>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>>>> >>>>> michael.white@charter.net wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Hi all, >>>>>> >>>>>> I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 >>>>>> Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service >>>>>> manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all >>>>>> the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and >>>>>> nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new >>>>>> urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks. >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>>>>> to >>>>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >>>> >>> >>> > -- "I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with whips....r" R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days. |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Lee Ayrton wrote:
> Or, as my brother calls it, "instant rust". Speaking of instant rust... I knew an old timer that swore by a drop of battery acid. That is instant rust! > On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Mike Romain wrote: > >> I used loctite on mine and they stayed put. |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Lee Ayrton wrote:
> Or, as my brother calls it, "instant rust". Speaking of instant rust... I knew an old timer that swore by a drop of battery acid. That is instant rust! > On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Mike Romain wrote: > >> I used loctite on mine and they stayed put. |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Lee Ayrton wrote:
> Or, as my brother calls it, "instant rust". Speaking of instant rust... I knew an old timer that swore by a drop of battery acid. That is instant rust! > On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Mike Romain wrote: > >> I used loctite on mine and they stayed put. |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
An easy way to tell if a vehicle has been on it's side:
http://www.----------.com/jeep68sand.jpg God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- DougW wrote: > > Speaking of instant rust... I knew an old timer > that swore by a drop of battery acid. That is > instant rust! |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
An easy way to tell if a vehicle has been on it's side:
http://www.----------.com/jeep68sand.jpg God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- DougW wrote: > > Speaking of instant rust... I knew an old timer > that swore by a drop of battery acid. That is > instant rust! |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:43 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands