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CJ body mounts torque
Hi all,
I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). Thanks. -- Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 ft lb for 'me'.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > Hi all, > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > > Thanks. > -- > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > to > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 ft lb for 'me'.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > Hi all, > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > > Thanks. > -- > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > to > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 ft lb for 'me'.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > Hi all, > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > > Thanks. > -- > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > to > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Generic torque specs:
http://www.team.net/sol/tech/torque.html 50 foot pounds on 3/8" bolts is getting fairly close to snapping them. Mike Romain wrote: > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > ft lb for 'me'.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > michael.white@charter.net wrote: > >>Hi all, >> >>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 >>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service >>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all >>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and >>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new >>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). >> >>Thanks. >>-- >>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>to >> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Generic torque specs:
http://www.team.net/sol/tech/torque.html 50 foot pounds on 3/8" bolts is getting fairly close to snapping them. Mike Romain wrote: > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > ft lb for 'me'.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > michael.white@charter.net wrote: > >>Hi all, >> >>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 >>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service >>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all >>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and >>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new >>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). >> >>Thanks. >>-- >>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>to >> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Generic torque specs:
http://www.team.net/sol/tech/torque.html 50 foot pounds on 3/8" bolts is getting fairly close to snapping them. Mike Romain wrote: > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > ft lb for 'me'.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > michael.white@charter.net wrote: > >>Hi all, >> >>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 >>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service >>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all >>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and >>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new >>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). >> >>Thanks. >>-- >>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>to >> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Mike,
Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt then. 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also using lock washers). -- Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer Mike Romain wrote: > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > ft lb for 'me'.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > > > Hi all, > > > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > > > > Thanks. > > -- > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > > to > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Mike,
Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt then. 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also using lock washers). -- Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer Mike Romain wrote: > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > ft lb for 'me'.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > > > Hi all, > > > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > > > > Thanks. > > -- > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > > to > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Mike,
Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt then. 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also using lock washers). -- Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer Mike Romain wrote: > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > ft lb for 'me'.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > > > Hi all, > > > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > > > > Thanks. > > -- > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > > to > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I wouldn't seal them up.
I have had to 'adjust' my body tub 3 times over the years to get it back square onto the frame. Now mind you I used to do some pretty insane off roading and have had it rubber side up a couple times, but it is sure nice to be able to put it back on square. But then with 3/4" shaft on a bolt, there wouldn't be much movement eh. Though the tub being out by 3/8" is enough to make the clutch linkage not grab.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > Mike, > > Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > then. > > 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > using lock washers). > -- > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > to > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > > Mike Romain wrote: > > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > > binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > > > > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > > > > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > > ft lb for 'me'.... > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > > > > > Hi all, > > > > > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > > > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > > > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > > > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > > > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > > > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > > > > > > Thanks. > > > -- > > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > > > to > > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I wouldn't seal them up.
I have had to 'adjust' my body tub 3 times over the years to get it back square onto the frame. Now mind you I used to do some pretty insane off roading and have had it rubber side up a couple times, but it is sure nice to be able to put it back on square. But then with 3/4" shaft on a bolt, there wouldn't be much movement eh. Though the tub being out by 3/8" is enough to make the clutch linkage not grab.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > Mike, > > Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > then. > > 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > using lock washers). > -- > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > to > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > > Mike Romain wrote: > > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > > binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > > > > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > > > > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > > ft lb for 'me'.... > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > > > > > Hi all, > > > > > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > > > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > > > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > > > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > > > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > > > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > > > > > > Thanks. > > > -- > > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > > > to > > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I wouldn't seal them up.
I have had to 'adjust' my body tub 3 times over the years to get it back square onto the frame. Now mind you I used to do some pretty insane off roading and have had it rubber side up a couple times, but it is sure nice to be able to put it back on square. But then with 3/4" shaft on a bolt, there wouldn't be much movement eh. Though the tub being out by 3/8" is enough to make the clutch linkage not grab.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > Mike, > > Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > then. > > 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > using lock washers). > -- > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > to > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > > Mike Romain wrote: > > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > > binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > > > > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > > > > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > > ft lb for 'me'.... > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > > > > > Hi all, > > > > > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > > > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > > > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > > > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > > > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > > > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > > > > > > Thanks. > > > -- > > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > > > to > > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing
fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. Chris <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... > Mike, > > Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > then. > > 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > using lock washers). > -- > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > to > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > > Mike Romain wrote: >> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so >> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space >> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch >> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot >> binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... >> >> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit >> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a >> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose >> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom >> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched >> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. >> >> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think >> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it >> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed >> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 >> ft lb for 'me'.... >> >> Mike >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >> >> michael.white@charter.net wrote: >> > >> > Hi all, >> > >> > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 >> > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service >> > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all >> > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and >> > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new >> > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). >> > >> > Thanks. >> > -- >> > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >> > to >> > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing
fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. Chris <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... > Mike, > > Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > then. > > 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > using lock washers). > -- > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > to > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > > Mike Romain wrote: >> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so >> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space >> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch >> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot >> binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... >> >> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit >> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a >> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose >> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom >> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched >> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. >> >> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think >> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it >> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed >> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 >> ft lb for 'me'.... >> >> Mike >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >> >> michael.white@charter.net wrote: >> > >> > Hi all, >> > >> > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 >> > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service >> > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all >> > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and >> > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new >> > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). >> > >> > Thanks. >> > -- >> > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >> > to >> > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing
fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. Chris <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... > Mike, > > Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > then. > > 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > using lock washers). > -- > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > to > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > > Mike Romain wrote: >> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so >> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space >> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch >> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot >> binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... >> >> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit >> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a >> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose >> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom >> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched >> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. >> >> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think >> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it >> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed >> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 >> ft lb for 'me'.... >> >> Mike >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >> >> michael.white@charter.net wrote: >> > >> > Hi all, >> > >> > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 >> > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service >> > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all >> > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and >> > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new >> > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). >> > >> > Thanks. >> > -- >> > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >> > to >> > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts)
c wrote: > One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing > fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on > thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 > ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. > > Chris > > <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message > news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... > >>Mike, >> >>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far >>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have >>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I >>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt >>then. >> >>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's >>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want >>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also >>using lock washers). >>-- >>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>to >> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >> >>Mike Romain wrote: >> >>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so >>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space >>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch >>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot >>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... >>> >>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit >>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a >>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose >>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom >>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched >>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. >>> >>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think >>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it >>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed >>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 >>>ft lb for 'me'.... >>> >>>Mike >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>> >>>michael.white@charter.net wrote: >>> >>>>Hi all, >>>> >>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 >>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service >>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all >>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and >>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new >>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). >>>> >>>>Thanks. >>>>-- >>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>>>to >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >> > > |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts)
c wrote: > One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing > fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on > thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 > ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. > > Chris > > <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message > news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... > >>Mike, >> >>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far >>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have >>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I >>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt >>then. >> >>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's >>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want >>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also >>using lock washers). >>-- >>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>to >> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >> >>Mike Romain wrote: >> >>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so >>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space >>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch >>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot >>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... >>> >>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit >>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a >>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose >>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom >>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched >>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. >>> >>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think >>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it >>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed >>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 >>>ft lb for 'me'.... >>> >>>Mike >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>> >>>michael.white@charter.net wrote: >>> >>>>Hi all, >>>> >>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 >>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service >>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all >>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and >>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new >>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). >>>> >>>>Thanks. >>>>-- >>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>>>to >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >> > > |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts)
c wrote: > One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing > fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on > thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 > ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. > > Chris > > <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message > news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... > >>Mike, >> >>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far >>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have >>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I >>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt >>then. >> >>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's >>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want >>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also >>using lock washers). >>-- >>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>to >> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >> >>Mike Romain wrote: >> >>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so >>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space >>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch >>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot >>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... >>> >>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit >>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a >>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose >>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom >>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched >>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. >>> >>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think >>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it >>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed >>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 >>>ft lb for 'me'.... >>> >>>Mike >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>> >>>michael.white@charter.net wrote: >>> >>>>Hi all, >>>> >>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 >>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service >>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all >>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and >>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new >>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). >>>> >>>>Thanks. >>>>-- >>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>>>to >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >> > > |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I used loctite on mine and they stayed put.
Mike RoyJ wrote: > > 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts) > > c wrote: > > One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing > > fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on > > thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 > > ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. > > > > Chris > > > > <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message > > news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... > > > >>Mike, > >> > >>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > >>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > >>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > >>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > >>then. > >> > >>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > >>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > >>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > >>using lock washers). > >>-- > >>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>to > >> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >> > >>Mike Romain wrote: > >> > >>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > >>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > >>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > >>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > >>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > >>> > >>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > >>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > >>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > >>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > >>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > >>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > >>> > >>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > >>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > >>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > >>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > >>>ft lb for 'me'.... > >>> > >>>Mike > >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > >>> > >>>michael.white@charter.net wrote: > >>> > >>>>Hi all, > >>>> > >>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > >>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > >>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > >>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > >>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > >>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > >>>> > >>>>Thanks. > >>>>-- > >>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>>>to > >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >> > > > > |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I used loctite on mine and they stayed put.
Mike RoyJ wrote: > > 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts) > > c wrote: > > One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing > > fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on > > thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 > > ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. > > > > Chris > > > > <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message > > news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... > > > >>Mike, > >> > >>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > >>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > >>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > >>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > >>then. > >> > >>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > >>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > >>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > >>using lock washers). > >>-- > >>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>to > >> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >> > >>Mike Romain wrote: > >> > >>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > >>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > >>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > >>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > >>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > >>> > >>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > >>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > >>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > >>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > >>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > >>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > >>> > >>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > >>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > >>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > >>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > >>>ft lb for 'me'.... > >>> > >>>Mike > >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > >>> > >>>michael.white@charter.net wrote: > >>> > >>>>Hi all, > >>>> > >>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > >>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > >>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > >>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > >>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > >>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > >>>> > >>>>Thanks. > >>>>-- > >>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>>>to > >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >> > > > > |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I used loctite on mine and they stayed put.
Mike RoyJ wrote: > > 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts) > > c wrote: > > One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing > > fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on > > thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 > > ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. > > > > Chris > > > > <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message > > news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... > > > >>Mike, > >> > >>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > >>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > >>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > >>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > >>then. > >> > >>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > >>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > >>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > >>using lock washers). > >>-- > >>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>to > >> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >> > >>Mike Romain wrote: > >> > >>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > >>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > >>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > >>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > >>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > >>> > >>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > >>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > >>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > >>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > >>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > >>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > >>> > >>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > >>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > >>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > >>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > >>>ft lb for 'me'.... > >>> > >>>Mike > >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > >>> > >>>michael.white@charter.net wrote: > >>> > >>>>Hi all, > >>>> > >>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > >>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > >>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > >>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > >>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > >>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > >>>> > >>>>Thanks. > >>>>-- > >>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>>>to > >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >> > > > > |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Or, as my brother calls it, "instant rust". On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Mike Romain wrote: > I used loctite on mine and they stayed put. > > Mike > > RoyJ wrote: >> >> 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts) >> >> c wrote: >>> One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing >>> fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on >>> thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 >>> ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message >>> news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... >>> >>>> Mike, >>>> >>>> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far >>>> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have >>>> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I >>>> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt >>>> then. >>>> >>>> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's >>>> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want >>>> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also >>>> using lock washers). >>>> -- >>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>>> to >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >>>> >>>> Mike Romain wrote: >>>> >>>>> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so >>>>> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space >>>>> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch >>>>> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot >>>>> binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... >>>>> >>>>> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit >>>>> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a >>>>> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose >>>>> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom >>>>> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched >>>>> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. >>>>> >>>>> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think >>>>> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it >>>>> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed >>>>> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 >>>>> ft lb for 'me'.... >>>>> >>>>> Mike >>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 >>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>>>> >>>>> michael.white@charter.net wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Hi all, >>>>>> >>>>>> I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 >>>>>> Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service >>>>>> manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all >>>>>> the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and >>>>>> nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new >>>>>> urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks. >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>>>>> to >>>>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >>>> >>> >>> > -- "I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with whips....r" R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days. |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Or, as my brother calls it, "instant rust". On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Mike Romain wrote: > I used loctite on mine and they stayed put. > > Mike > > RoyJ wrote: >> >> 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts) >> >> c wrote: >>> One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing >>> fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on >>> thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 >>> ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message >>> news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... >>> >>>> Mike, >>>> >>>> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far >>>> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have >>>> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I >>>> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt >>>> then. >>>> >>>> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's >>>> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want >>>> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also >>>> using lock washers). >>>> -- >>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>>> to >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >>>> >>>> Mike Romain wrote: >>>> >>>>> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so >>>>> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space >>>>> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch >>>>> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot >>>>> binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... >>>>> >>>>> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit >>>>> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a >>>>> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose >>>>> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom >>>>> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched >>>>> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. >>>>> >>>>> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think >>>>> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it >>>>> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed >>>>> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 >>>>> ft lb for 'me'.... >>>>> >>>>> Mike >>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 >>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>>>> >>>>> michael.white@charter.net wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Hi all, >>>>>> >>>>>> I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 >>>>>> Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service >>>>>> manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all >>>>>> the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and >>>>>> nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new >>>>>> urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks. >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>>>>> to >>>>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >>>> >>> >>> > -- "I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with whips....r" R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days. |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Or, as my brother calls it, "instant rust". On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Mike Romain wrote: > I used loctite on mine and they stayed put. > > Mike > > RoyJ wrote: >> >> 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts) >> >> c wrote: >>> One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing >>> fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on >>> thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 >>> ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message >>> news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... >>> >>>> Mike, >>>> >>>> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far >>>> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have >>>> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I >>>> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt >>>> then. >>>> >>>> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's >>>> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want >>>> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also >>>> using lock washers). >>>> -- >>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>>> to >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >>>> >>>> Mike Romain wrote: >>>> >>>>> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so >>>>> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space >>>>> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch >>>>> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot >>>>> binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... >>>>> >>>>> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit >>>>> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a >>>>> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose >>>>> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom >>>>> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched >>>>> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. >>>>> >>>>> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think >>>>> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it >>>>> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed >>>>> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 >>>>> ft lb for 'me'.... >>>>> >>>>> Mike >>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 >>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>>>> >>>>> michael.white@charter.net wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Hi all, >>>>>> >>>>>> I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 >>>>>> Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service >>>>>> manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all >>>>>> the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and >>>>>> nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new >>>>>> urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks. >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is >>>>>> to >>>>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer >>>> >>> >>> > -- "I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with whips....r" R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days. |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Lee Ayrton wrote:
> Or, as my brother calls it, "instant rust". Speaking of instant rust... I knew an old timer that swore by a drop of battery acid. That is instant rust! > On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Mike Romain wrote: > >> I used loctite on mine and they stayed put. |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Lee Ayrton wrote:
> Or, as my brother calls it, "instant rust". Speaking of instant rust... I knew an old timer that swore by a drop of battery acid. That is instant rust! > On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Mike Romain wrote: > >> I used loctite on mine and they stayed put. |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Lee Ayrton wrote:
> Or, as my brother calls it, "instant rust". Speaking of instant rust... I knew an old timer that swore by a drop of battery acid. That is instant rust! > On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Mike Romain wrote: > >> I used loctite on mine and they stayed put. |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
An easy way to tell if a vehicle has been on it's side:
http://www.----------.com/jeep68sand.jpg God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- DougW wrote: > > Speaking of instant rust... I knew an old timer > that swore by a drop of battery acid. That is > instant rust! |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
An easy way to tell if a vehicle has been on it's side:
http://www.----------.com/jeep68sand.jpg God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- DougW wrote: > > Speaking of instant rust... I knew an old timer > that swore by a drop of battery acid. That is > instant rust! |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
An easy way to tell if a vehicle has been on it's side:
http://www.----------.com/jeep68sand.jpg God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- DougW wrote: > > Speaking of instant rust... I knew an old timer > that swore by a drop of battery acid. That is > instant rust! |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I actually use the stuff to seal out the rust more than to clamp the
nut. Lockwashers clamp nuts well, but I live in the rust belt and use loctite on everything. I have stainless nuts and bolts on mine also. It is a 'glass body. Mike Lee Ayrton wrote: > > Or, as my brother calls it, "instant rust". > > On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Mike Romain wrote: > > > I used loctite on mine and they stayed put. > > > > Mike > > > > RoyJ wrote: > >> > >> 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts) > >> > >> c wrote: > >>> One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing > >>> fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on > >>> thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 > >>> ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. > >>> > >>> Chris > >>> > >>> <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message > >>> news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... > >>> > >>>> Mike, > >>>> > >>>> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > >>>> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > >>>> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > >>>> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > >>>> then. > >>>> > >>>> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > >>>> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > >>>> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > >>>> using lock washers). > >>>> -- > >>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>>> to > >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >>>> > >>>> Mike Romain wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > >>>>> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > >>>>> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > >>>>> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > >>>>> binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > >>>>> > >>>>> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > >>>>> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > >>>>> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > >>>>> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > >>>>> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > >>>>> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > >>>>> > >>>>> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > >>>>> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > >>>>> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > >>>>> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > >>>>> ft lb for 'me'.... > >>>>> > >>>>> Mike > >>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > >>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > >>>>> > >>>>> michael.white@charter.net wrote: > >>>>> > >>>>>> Hi all, > >>>>>> > >>>>>> I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > >>>>>> Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > >>>>>> manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > >>>>>> the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > >>>>>> nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > >>>>>> urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Thanks. > >>>>>> -- > >>>>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>>>>> to > >>>>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >>>> > >>> > >>> > > > > -- > "I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with > whips....r" > R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days. |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I actually use the stuff to seal out the rust more than to clamp the
nut. Lockwashers clamp nuts well, but I live in the rust belt and use loctite on everything. I have stainless nuts and bolts on mine also. It is a 'glass body. Mike Lee Ayrton wrote: > > Or, as my brother calls it, "instant rust". > > On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Mike Romain wrote: > > > I used loctite on mine and they stayed put. > > > > Mike > > > > RoyJ wrote: > >> > >> 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts) > >> > >> c wrote: > >>> One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing > >>> fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on > >>> thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 > >>> ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. > >>> > >>> Chris > >>> > >>> <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message > >>> news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... > >>> > >>>> Mike, > >>>> > >>>> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > >>>> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > >>>> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > >>>> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > >>>> then. > >>>> > >>>> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > >>>> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > >>>> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > >>>> using lock washers). > >>>> -- > >>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>>> to > >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >>>> > >>>> Mike Romain wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > >>>>> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > >>>>> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > >>>>> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > >>>>> binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > >>>>> > >>>>> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > >>>>> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > >>>>> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > >>>>> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > >>>>> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > >>>>> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > >>>>> > >>>>> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > >>>>> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > >>>>> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > >>>>> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > >>>>> ft lb for 'me'.... > >>>>> > >>>>> Mike > >>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > >>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > >>>>> > >>>>> michael.white@charter.net wrote: > >>>>> > >>>>>> Hi all, > >>>>>> > >>>>>> I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > >>>>>> Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > >>>>>> manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > >>>>>> the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > >>>>>> nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > >>>>>> urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Thanks. > >>>>>> -- > >>>>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>>>>> to > >>>>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >>>> > >>> > >>> > > > > -- > "I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with > whips....r" > R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days. |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I actually use the stuff to seal out the rust more than to clamp the
nut. Lockwashers clamp nuts well, but I live in the rust belt and use loctite on everything. I have stainless nuts and bolts on mine also. It is a 'glass body. Mike Lee Ayrton wrote: > > Or, as my brother calls it, "instant rust". > > On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Mike Romain wrote: > > > I used loctite on mine and they stayed put. > > > > Mike > > > > RoyJ wrote: > >> > >> 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts) > >> > >> c wrote: > >>> One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing > >>> fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on > >>> thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50 > >>> ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening. > >>> > >>> Chris > >>> > >>> <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message > >>> news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com... > >>> > >>>> Mike, > >>>> > >>>> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > >>>> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > >>>> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > >>>> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > >>>> then. > >>>> > >>>> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > >>>> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > >>>> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > >>>> using lock washers). > >>>> -- > >>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>>> to > >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >>>> > >>>> Mike Romain wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > >>>>> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > >>>>> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > >>>>> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > >>>>> binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > >>>>> > >>>>> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > >>>>> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > >>>>> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > >>>>> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > >>>>> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > >>>>> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > >>>>> > >>>>> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > >>>>> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > >>>>> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > >>>>> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > >>>>> ft lb for 'me'.... > >>>>> > >>>>> Mike > >>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > >>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > >>>>> > >>>>> michael.white@charter.net wrote: > >>>>> > >>>>>> Hi all, > >>>>>> > >>>>>> I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > >>>>>> Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > >>>>>> manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > >>>>>> the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > >>>>>> nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > >>>>>> urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Thanks. > >>>>>> -- > >>>>>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > >>>>>> to > >>>>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > >>>> > >>> > >>> > > > > -- > "I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with > whips....r" > R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days. |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Mike,
Never had mine upside down myself, but I bought it in '98 and tearing into this work I'm doing has shown me some obvious damage and poorly attempted repairs in the past. My Jeep spends most of it's life on the road with just some moderate off-roading. I got everything back together and nothing seems out of kilter (body looks straight compared with the wheels, shifts just as crappily as before). I haven't decided for sure that I want to weld it shut, but I need to put something over those holes, and not just for "passenger comfort". Two leave fuel lines exposed to sunlight, which will seriously shorten their lives. And six are in the bed, which is often used to haul dirt and rock (thats me with the half yard of gravel in the back of a Scrambler :). The clutch linkage won't be a problem here in a few days, in any case - I'm in the process of replacing it with a hydraulic clutch. After the mechanical clutch linkage had its second failure (the most recent in the middle of nowhere in Mexico) on parts that are about two years old, I decided that enough was enough. -- Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer Mike Romain wrote: > I wouldn't seal them up. > > I have had to 'adjust' my body tub 3 times over the years to get it back > square onto the frame. Now mind you I used to do some pretty insane off > roading and have had it rubber side up a couple times, but it is sure > nice to be able to put it back on square. But then with 3/4" shaft on a > bolt, there wouldn't be much movement eh. > > Though the tub being out by 3/8" is enough to make the clutch linkage > not grab.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > > > Mike, > > > > Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > > enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > > slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > > have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > > then. > > > > 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > > about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > > them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > > using lock washers). > > -- > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > > to > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > > > > Mike Romain wrote: > > > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > > > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > > > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > > > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > > > binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > > > > > > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > > > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > > > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > > > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > > > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > > > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > > > > > > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > > > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > > > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > > > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > > > ft lb for 'me'.... > > > > > > Mike > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > > > michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi all, > > > > > > > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > > > > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > > > > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > > > > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > > > > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > > > > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > > > > > > > > Thanks. > > > > -- > > > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > > > > to > > > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Mike,
Never had mine upside down myself, but I bought it in '98 and tearing into this work I'm doing has shown me some obvious damage and poorly attempted repairs in the past. My Jeep spends most of it's life on the road with just some moderate off-roading. I got everything back together and nothing seems out of kilter (body looks straight compared with the wheels, shifts just as crappily as before). I haven't decided for sure that I want to weld it shut, but I need to put something over those holes, and not just for "passenger comfort". Two leave fuel lines exposed to sunlight, which will seriously shorten their lives. And six are in the bed, which is often used to haul dirt and rock (thats me with the half yard of gravel in the back of a Scrambler :). The clutch linkage won't be a problem here in a few days, in any case - I'm in the process of replacing it with a hydraulic clutch. After the mechanical clutch linkage had its second failure (the most recent in the middle of nowhere in Mexico) on parts that are about two years old, I decided that enough was enough. -- Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer Mike Romain wrote: > I wouldn't seal them up. > > I have had to 'adjust' my body tub 3 times over the years to get it back > square onto the frame. Now mind you I used to do some pretty insane off > roading and have had it rubber side up a couple times, but it is sure > nice to be able to put it back on square. But then with 3/4" shaft on a > bolt, there wouldn't be much movement eh. > > Though the tub being out by 3/8" is enough to make the clutch linkage > not grab.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > > > Mike, > > > > Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > > enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > > slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > > have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > > then. > > > > 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > > about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > > them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > > using lock washers). > > -- > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > > to > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > > > > Mike Romain wrote: > > > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > > > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > > > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > > > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > > > binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > > > > > > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > > > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > > > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > > > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > > > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > > > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > > > > > > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > > > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > > > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > > > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > > > ft lb for 'me'.... > > > > > > Mike > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > > > michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi all, > > > > > > > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > > > > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > > > > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > > > > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > > > > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > > > > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > > > > > > > > Thanks. > > > > -- > > > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > > > > to > > > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
Re: CJ body mounts torque
Mike,
Never had mine upside down myself, but I bought it in '98 and tearing into this work I'm doing has shown me some obvious damage and poorly attempted repairs in the past. My Jeep spends most of it's life on the road with just some moderate off-roading. I got everything back together and nothing seems out of kilter (body looks straight compared with the wheels, shifts just as crappily as before). I haven't decided for sure that I want to weld it shut, but I need to put something over those holes, and not just for "passenger comfort". Two leave fuel lines exposed to sunlight, which will seriously shorten their lives. And six are in the bed, which is often used to haul dirt and rock (thats me with the half yard of gravel in the back of a Scrambler :). The clutch linkage won't be a problem here in a few days, in any case - I'm in the process of replacing it with a hydraulic clutch. After the mechanical clutch linkage had its second failure (the most recent in the middle of nowhere in Mexico) on parts that are about two years old, I decided that enough was enough. -- Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer Mike Romain wrote: > I wouldn't seal them up. > > I have had to 'adjust' my body tub 3 times over the years to get it back > square onto the frame. Now mind you I used to do some pretty insane off > roading and have had it rubber side up a couple times, but it is sure > nice to be able to put it back on square. But then with 3/4" shaft on a > bolt, there wouldn't be much movement eh. > > Though the tub being out by 3/8" is enough to make the clutch linkage > not grab.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > > > Mike, > > > > Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far > > enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have > > slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I > > have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt > > then. > > > > 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's > > about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want > > them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also > > using lock washers). > > -- > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > > to > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer > > > > Mike Romain wrote: > > > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so > > > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space > > > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch > > > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot > > > binds or the wheels stick out on one side.... > > > > > > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit > > > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a > > > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose > > > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom > > > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched > > > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper. > > > > > > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think > > > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it > > > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed > > > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60 > > > ft lb for 'me'.... > > > > > > Mike > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > > > michael.white@charter.net wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi all, > > > > > > > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82 > > > > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service > > > > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all > > > > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and > > > > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new > > > > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :). > > > > > > > > Thanks. > > > > -- > > > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is > > > > to > > > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
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