Re: Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
 

On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 12:48:30 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
>resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
>blower cage also.


Thats cool, I just thought I would mention it.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
 

Thanks Mike. Yes, I do have a back-fire problem. I forgot to add that my
CJ-7 has a Chevy 350 w/ Edelbrock 600 cfm carb (Manual Choke), and an MSD
ignition.

I either have a timing/timing chain issue or I may have inadvertently caused
the problem. I have a leak on my Brake Booster, so I disconnected it and
sealed off the vacuum. The other day I took the Jeep on the highway and (So
I would have more responsive Brakes) I reconnected the leaky booster. After
about 10 miles down the hi-way...BOOM...it backfired and the entire Jeep
shook. So I pulled it over and it died. I did re-start the engine and
after about 30 seconds...BOOM. So I shut it off and had it towed to a
garage. Again, I'm not sure if the leaky booster caused a problem w/ Vacuum
e.g vacuum advance/lean condition..or, my worst fear is the timing chain
broke/slipped.

Where did you post the Meter walkthrough?

Thanks Mike and SnoMan


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45fd6abc$0$31580$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>I just clicked on something.... You have the backfire issue in the other
>group right?
>
> The orange wire from the choke sometimes hits the exhaust manifold near
> the back which will cause that. The Ford coil connectors are pretty
> crappy and either could have been moved or dinged when you were in there
> trying to bolt the heater back on. Even a plug wire.
>
> I also have posted a meter walk through for you to test your connections
> so you don't have to tear everything open on your alternator harness.
>
> Mike
>
> Anthony T wrote:
>> Mike,
>> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if
>> it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air
>> intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that
>> caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's
>> going on with the dash off.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:45fd5a50$0$5699$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Just an FYI.
>>>
>>> If you have the dash off, the cussing time will be cut in half at least
>>> 'And' the heater motor will fit straight through the nice new round
>>> hole... let alone how easy it is to hook up all ducts...
>>>
>>> I think it is worth the 'extra' time to pull the dash.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>> Anthony T wrote:
>>>> James,
>>>> I'm not sure if your still looking for advice on this mod. I just
>>>> recently moded my blower motor. It's a fairly cheap upgrade but a pain
>>>> in the ass to complete.
>>>>
>>>> I bought the upgraded motor from Schucks, part # 35587 (that's the
>>>> correct GM upgrade) I paid $30 for the motor, new.
>>>>
>>>> You do not need to remove the dash or seats to get the heater housing
>>>> out. I did it at 45 years old. However, you need be able to contort
>>>> your body a little.
>>>>
>>>> Getting it out is the easy part. 4 nuts and it's out.
>>>>
>>>> Once out, unscrew the numerous screws on the back of the heater housing
>>>> and you get to all of the innards of the heater hosing.
>>>>
>>>> Absolutely replace the heater core (Schucks part # 399210 for $40.).
>>>>
>>>> Replace your old blower motor and heater core.
>>>>
>>>> Now the hard part. Lining up the flapper ducts and the heater housing
>>>> and buttoning it up. That took a little finesse and time.
>>>>
>>>> Now the really hard part...expand the hole to fit the new blower motor.
>>>>
>>>> Read this and you will have complete success making the hole larger and
>>>> it will look like a professional install;
>>>> http://www.jeeptech.com/body/heatsup.html
>>>>
>>>> I had to buy a 3 1/4" hole saw at Home depot for $20
>>>>
>>>> Do not make the same mistake I made: I measured perfectly, and I made
>>>> a perfect hole. However, I couldn't get the friggin heater assembly to
>>>> fit back in. So, I absolutely hacked my beautiful hole into a jagged
>>>> octagon using a dremmel tool (it looks like ----) but the assembly more
>>>> easily fit back in.
>>>>
>>>> As I look back on this I realized, I just needed to finesse the heater
>>>> assembly to line up with the holes. Have patience (unlike me) and give
>>>> it a good push and it will fit in nicely
>>>>
>>>> Total Cost for the project, including the hole saw: $90
>>>> Total time...about 6 hours as I couldn't get it to fit back in. Have
>>>> two or three friends help you line up the holes.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:6vSdnXaL4ZM8At7YnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> There were a number of posts and website reviews on upgrading the
>>>>> heater fan
>>>>> blower motor for the older vintage cj-5 Jeeps. My Jeep is a 1980
>>>>> CJ-5.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have read all the posts that I can find on this, and I would like to
>>>>> summarize some questions that still remain for me as I prepare to
>>>>> assist my
>>>>> mechanic for getting ready to do this for me.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 1. Motor model. I note that the web article on Off-Road.com
>>>>> says to
>>>>> ask for a motor for a 1973 Chevy Blazer / 350, with a/c. Other
>>>>> notes say to ask for the "normal" fan motor, not the "premimum" one.
>>>>> It
>>>>> is said that the shaft on the "premium" motor is too long. I wonder
>>>>> how
>>>>> you can be confident that you have the right motor if they only list
>>>>> one
>>>>> (not a "normal" and a "premium" one) ?? Also, I see that Mike
>>>>> Romain
>>>>> indicates that the "right" motor to ask for is for a 1972 Chevy
>>>>> Blazer
>>>>> (not a 1973 as indicated on the website article. ). I wonder if
>>>>> anyone
>>>>> bought a "correct" size motor from NAPA, and could just give me the
>>>>> NAPA
>>>>> part number ?
>>>>>
>>>>> Any other comments on making sure I get the right size motor for my
>>>>> 1980
>>>>> CJ-5 Jeep?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 2. Gasket? Will I need to fashion some kind of gasket when the new
>>>>> motor
>>>>> is put on ? One poster said he had a terrible time getting a new
>>>>> gasket
>>>>> made. Can I buy a gasket of some sort, or will the old gasket work
>>>>> if
>>>>> care is taken ?? Any comments?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 3. Heater core. I plan to have this job done from the firewall side,
>>>>> and
>>>>> not take the dash out. Can the heater core be easily removed from
>>>>> the
>>>>> firewall side ? Will it be obvious to my mechanic if the heater
>>>>> core
>>>>> needs replacement, or boiling out ? If this is such a hard job,
>>>>> wouldn't
>>>>> it just be quicker/easier to buy a new heater core ? What is the
>>>>> ballpark
>>>>> cost of the heater core? Remember, this is a 1980 Jeep, but the
>>>>> core is
>>>>> not now leaking, but I don't know how good the flow is.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 4. On my 1980 CJ-5, would it be easier in the long run to remove
>>>>> the
>>>>> battery tray ? I have the standard battery and tray.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 5. Proper saw for enlarging hole. Which is best, a jigsaw,
>>>>> scroll saw,
>>>>> or a reciprocal saw with a thin blade ?? I know that a hole-saw
>>>>> will cut
>>>>> a cleaner, more precise hole, but isn't it true that this can only be
>>>>> done
>>>>> from the dash side ? (if so, I don't really visualize why???)
>>>>>
>>>>> -------------------------------------------------
>>>>>
>>>>> Again, I am not a mechanic, but I work closely with my mechanic and he
>>>>> doesn't mind if I help him plan, and get the right tools and parts in
>>>>> advance.
>>>>>
>>>>> I know this is an old subject, but I really do want to do this
>>>>> upgrade, as I
>>>>> have always felt that this Jeep was very weak in the heater fan
>>>>> output.
>>>>> Doubling the output would help a LOT in the dead of winter.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for helping me on these questions !!!!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> --james--
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>

Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
 

Thanks Mike. Yes, I do have a back-fire problem. I forgot to add that my
CJ-7 has a Chevy 350 w/ Edelbrock 600 cfm carb (Manual Choke), and an MSD
ignition.

I either have a timing/timing chain issue or I may have inadvertently caused
the problem. I have a leak on my Brake Booster, so I disconnected it and
sealed off the vacuum. The other day I took the Jeep on the highway and (So
I would have more responsive Brakes) I reconnected the leaky booster. After
about 10 miles down the hi-way...BOOM...it backfired and the entire Jeep
shook. So I pulled it over and it died. I did re-start the engine and
after about 30 seconds...BOOM. So I shut it off and had it towed to a
garage. Again, I'm not sure if the leaky booster caused a problem w/ Vacuum
e.g vacuum advance/lean condition..or, my worst fear is the timing chain
broke/slipped.

Where did you post the Meter walkthrough?

Thanks Mike and SnoMan


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45fd6abc$0$31580$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>I just clicked on something.... You have the backfire issue in the other
>group right?
>
> The orange wire from the choke sometimes hits the exhaust manifold near
> the back which will cause that. The Ford coil connectors are pretty
> crappy and either could have been moved or dinged when you were in there
> trying to bolt the heater back on. Even a plug wire.
>
> I also have posted a meter walk through for you to test your connections
> so you don't have to tear everything open on your alternator harness.
>
> Mike
>
> Anthony T wrote:
>> Mike,
>> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if
>> it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air
>> intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that
>> caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's
>> going on with the dash off.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:45fd5a50$0$5699$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Just an FYI.
>>>
>>> If you have the dash off, the cussing time will be cut in half at least
>>> 'And' the heater motor will fit straight through the nice new round
>>> hole... let alone how easy it is to hook up all ducts...
>>>
>>> I think it is worth the 'extra' time to pull the dash.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>> Anthony T wrote:
>>>> James,
>>>> I'm not sure if your still looking for advice on this mod. I just
>>>> recently moded my blower motor. It's a fairly cheap upgrade but a pain
>>>> in the ass to complete.
>>>>
>>>> I bought the upgraded motor from Schucks, part # 35587 (that's the
>>>> correct GM upgrade) I paid $30 for the motor, new.
>>>>
>>>> You do not need to remove the dash or seats to get the heater housing
>>>> out. I did it at 45 years old. However, you need be able to contort
>>>> your body a little.
>>>>
>>>> Getting it out is the easy part. 4 nuts and it's out.
>>>>
>>>> Once out, unscrew the numerous screws on the back of the heater housing
>>>> and you get to all of the innards of the heater hosing.
>>>>
>>>> Absolutely replace the heater core (Schucks part # 399210 for $40.).
>>>>
>>>> Replace your old blower motor and heater core.
>>>>
>>>> Now the hard part. Lining up the flapper ducts and the heater housing
>>>> and buttoning it up. That took a little finesse and time.
>>>>
>>>> Now the really hard part...expand the hole to fit the new blower motor.
>>>>
>>>> Read this and you will have complete success making the hole larger and
>>>> it will look like a professional install;
>>>> http://www.jeeptech.com/body/heatsup.html
>>>>
>>>> I had to buy a 3 1/4" hole saw at Home depot for $20
>>>>
>>>> Do not make the same mistake I made: I measured perfectly, and I made
>>>> a perfect hole. However, I couldn't get the friggin heater assembly to
>>>> fit back in. So, I absolutely hacked my beautiful hole into a jagged
>>>> octagon using a dremmel tool (it looks like ----) but the assembly more
>>>> easily fit back in.
>>>>
>>>> As I look back on this I realized, I just needed to finesse the heater
>>>> assembly to line up with the holes. Have patience (unlike me) and give
>>>> it a good push and it will fit in nicely
>>>>
>>>> Total Cost for the project, including the hole saw: $90
>>>> Total time...about 6 hours as I couldn't get it to fit back in. Have
>>>> two or three friends help you line up the holes.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:6vSdnXaL4ZM8At7YnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> There were a number of posts and website reviews on upgrading the
>>>>> heater fan
>>>>> blower motor for the older vintage cj-5 Jeeps. My Jeep is a 1980
>>>>> CJ-5.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have read all the posts that I can find on this, and I would like to
>>>>> summarize some questions that still remain for me as I prepare to
>>>>> assist my
>>>>> mechanic for getting ready to do this for me.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 1. Motor model. I note that the web article on Off-Road.com
>>>>> says to
>>>>> ask for a motor for a 1973 Chevy Blazer / 350, with a/c. Other
>>>>> notes say to ask for the "normal" fan motor, not the "premimum" one.
>>>>> It
>>>>> is said that the shaft on the "premium" motor is too long. I wonder
>>>>> how
>>>>> you can be confident that you have the right motor if they only list
>>>>> one
>>>>> (not a "normal" and a "premium" one) ?? Also, I see that Mike
>>>>> Romain
>>>>> indicates that the "right" motor to ask for is for a 1972 Chevy
>>>>> Blazer
>>>>> (not a 1973 as indicated on the website article. ). I wonder if
>>>>> anyone
>>>>> bought a "correct" size motor from NAPA, and could just give me the
>>>>> NAPA
>>>>> part number ?
>>>>>
>>>>> Any other comments on making sure I get the right size motor for my
>>>>> 1980
>>>>> CJ-5 Jeep?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 2. Gasket? Will I need to fashion some kind of gasket when the new
>>>>> motor
>>>>> is put on ? One poster said he had a terrible time getting a new
>>>>> gasket
>>>>> made. Can I buy a gasket of some sort, or will the old gasket work
>>>>> if
>>>>> care is taken ?? Any comments?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 3. Heater core. I plan to have this job done from the firewall side,
>>>>> and
>>>>> not take the dash out. Can the heater core be easily removed from
>>>>> the
>>>>> firewall side ? Will it be obvious to my mechanic if the heater
>>>>> core
>>>>> needs replacement, or boiling out ? If this is such a hard job,
>>>>> wouldn't
>>>>> it just be quicker/easier to buy a new heater core ? What is the
>>>>> ballpark
>>>>> cost of the heater core? Remember, this is a 1980 Jeep, but the
>>>>> core is
>>>>> not now leaking, but I don't know how good the flow is.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 4. On my 1980 CJ-5, would it be easier in the long run to remove
>>>>> the
>>>>> battery tray ? I have the standard battery and tray.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 5. Proper saw for enlarging hole. Which is best, a jigsaw,
>>>>> scroll saw,
>>>>> or a reciprocal saw with a thin blade ?? I know that a hole-saw
>>>>> will cut
>>>>> a cleaner, more precise hole, but isn't it true that this can only be
>>>>> done
>>>>> from the dash side ? (if so, I don't really visualize why???)
>>>>>
>>>>> -------------------------------------------------
>>>>>
>>>>> Again, I am not a mechanic, but I work closely with my mechanic and he
>>>>> doesn't mind if I help him plan, and get the right tools and parts in
>>>>> advance.
>>>>>
>>>>> I know this is an old subject, but I really do want to do this
>>>>> upgrade, as I
>>>>> have always felt that this Jeep was very weak in the heater fan
>>>>> output.
>>>>> Doubling the output would help a LOT in the dead of winter.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for helping me on these questions !!!!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> --james--
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>

Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
 

Thanks Mike. Yes, I do have a back-fire problem. I forgot to add that my
CJ-7 has a Chevy 350 w/ Edelbrock 600 cfm carb (Manual Choke), and an MSD
ignition.

I either have a timing/timing chain issue or I may have inadvertently caused
the problem. I have a leak on my Brake Booster, so I disconnected it and
sealed off the vacuum. The other day I took the Jeep on the highway and (So
I would have more responsive Brakes) I reconnected the leaky booster. After
about 10 miles down the hi-way...BOOM...it backfired and the entire Jeep
shook. So I pulled it over and it died. I did re-start the engine and
after about 30 seconds...BOOM. So I shut it off and had it towed to a
garage. Again, I'm not sure if the leaky booster caused a problem w/ Vacuum
e.g vacuum advance/lean condition..or, my worst fear is the timing chain
broke/slipped.

Where did you post the Meter walkthrough?

Thanks Mike and SnoMan


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45fd6abc$0$31580$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>I just clicked on something.... You have the backfire issue in the other
>group right?
>
> The orange wire from the choke sometimes hits the exhaust manifold near
> the back which will cause that. The Ford coil connectors are pretty
> crappy and either could have been moved or dinged when you were in there
> trying to bolt the heater back on. Even a plug wire.
>
> I also have posted a meter walk through for you to test your connections
> so you don't have to tear everything open on your alternator harness.
>
> Mike
>
> Anthony T wrote:
>> Mike,
>> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if
>> it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air
>> intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that
>> caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's
>> going on with the dash off.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:45fd5a50$0$5699$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Just an FYI.
>>>
>>> If you have the dash off, the cussing time will be cut in half at least
>>> 'And' the heater motor will fit straight through the nice new round
>>> hole... let alone how easy it is to hook up all ducts...
>>>
>>> I think it is worth the 'extra' time to pull the dash.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>> Anthony T wrote:
>>>> James,
>>>> I'm not sure if your still looking for advice on this mod. I just
>>>> recently moded my blower motor. It's a fairly cheap upgrade but a pain
>>>> in the ass to complete.
>>>>
>>>> I bought the upgraded motor from Schucks, part # 35587 (that's the
>>>> correct GM upgrade) I paid $30 for the motor, new.
>>>>
>>>> You do not need to remove the dash or seats to get the heater housing
>>>> out. I did it at 45 years old. However, you need be able to contort
>>>> your body a little.
>>>>
>>>> Getting it out is the easy part. 4 nuts and it's out.
>>>>
>>>> Once out, unscrew the numerous screws on the back of the heater housing
>>>> and you get to all of the innards of the heater hosing.
>>>>
>>>> Absolutely replace the heater core (Schucks part # 399210 for $40.).
>>>>
>>>> Replace your old blower motor and heater core.
>>>>
>>>> Now the hard part. Lining up the flapper ducts and the heater housing
>>>> and buttoning it up. That took a little finesse and time.
>>>>
>>>> Now the really hard part...expand the hole to fit the new blower motor.
>>>>
>>>> Read this and you will have complete success making the hole larger and
>>>> it will look like a professional install;
>>>> http://www.jeeptech.com/body/heatsup.html
>>>>
>>>> I had to buy a 3 1/4" hole saw at Home depot for $20
>>>>
>>>> Do not make the same mistake I made: I measured perfectly, and I made
>>>> a perfect hole. However, I couldn't get the friggin heater assembly to
>>>> fit back in. So, I absolutely hacked my beautiful hole into a jagged
>>>> octagon using a dremmel tool (it looks like ----) but the assembly more
>>>> easily fit back in.
>>>>
>>>> As I look back on this I realized, I just needed to finesse the heater
>>>> assembly to line up with the holes. Have patience (unlike me) and give
>>>> it a good push and it will fit in nicely
>>>>
>>>> Total Cost for the project, including the hole saw: $90
>>>> Total time...about 6 hours as I couldn't get it to fit back in. Have
>>>> two or three friends help you line up the holes.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:6vSdnXaL4ZM8At7YnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> There were a number of posts and website reviews on upgrading the
>>>>> heater fan
>>>>> blower motor for the older vintage cj-5 Jeeps. My Jeep is a 1980
>>>>> CJ-5.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have read all the posts that I can find on this, and I would like to
>>>>> summarize some questions that still remain for me as I prepare to
>>>>> assist my
>>>>> mechanic for getting ready to do this for me.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 1. Motor model. I note that the web article on Off-Road.com
>>>>> says to
>>>>> ask for a motor for a 1973 Chevy Blazer / 350, with a/c. Other
>>>>> notes say to ask for the "normal" fan motor, not the "premimum" one.
>>>>> It
>>>>> is said that the shaft on the "premium" motor is too long. I wonder
>>>>> how
>>>>> you can be confident that you have the right motor if they only list
>>>>> one
>>>>> (not a "normal" and a "premium" one) ?? Also, I see that Mike
>>>>> Romain
>>>>> indicates that the "right" motor to ask for is for a 1972 Chevy
>>>>> Blazer
>>>>> (not a 1973 as indicated on the website article. ). I wonder if
>>>>> anyone
>>>>> bought a "correct" size motor from NAPA, and could just give me the
>>>>> NAPA
>>>>> part number ?
>>>>>
>>>>> Any other comments on making sure I get the right size motor for my
>>>>> 1980
>>>>> CJ-5 Jeep?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 2. Gasket? Will I need to fashion some kind of gasket when the new
>>>>> motor
>>>>> is put on ? One poster said he had a terrible time getting a new
>>>>> gasket
>>>>> made. Can I buy a gasket of some sort, or will the old gasket work
>>>>> if
>>>>> care is taken ?? Any comments?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 3. Heater core. I plan to have this job done from the firewall side,
>>>>> and
>>>>> not take the dash out. Can the heater core be easily removed from
>>>>> the
>>>>> firewall side ? Will it be obvious to my mechanic if the heater
>>>>> core
>>>>> needs replacement, or boiling out ? If this is such a hard job,
>>>>> wouldn't
>>>>> it just be quicker/easier to buy a new heater core ? What is the
>>>>> ballpark
>>>>> cost of the heater core? Remember, this is a 1980 Jeep, but the
>>>>> core is
>>>>> not now leaking, but I don't know how good the flow is.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 4. On my 1980 CJ-5, would it be easier in the long run to remove
>>>>> the
>>>>> battery tray ? I have the standard battery and tray.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 5. Proper saw for enlarging hole. Which is best, a jigsaw,
>>>>> scroll saw,
>>>>> or a reciprocal saw with a thin blade ?? I know that a hole-saw
>>>>> will cut
>>>>> a cleaner, more precise hole, but isn't it true that this can only be
>>>>> done
>>>>> from the dash side ? (if so, I don't really visualize why???)
>>>>>
>>>>> -------------------------------------------------
>>>>>
>>>>> Again, I am not a mechanic, but I work closely with my mechanic and he
>>>>> doesn't mind if I help him plan, and get the right tools and parts in
>>>>> advance.
>>>>>
>>>>> I know this is an old subject, but I really do want to do this
>>>>> upgrade, as I
>>>>> have always felt that this Jeep was very weak in the heater fan
>>>>> output.
>>>>> Doubling the output would help a LOT in the dead of winter.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for helping me on these questions !!!!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> --james--
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>

Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
 

What's up with the resistor strip? Why do we need it? I thought the three
position blower switch gave the three different voltgaes to the motor. I
just dont understand what the resistor strip does (other than resist)

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45fd6d79$0$6415$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> SnoMan wrote:
>> On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud@remail-it.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier
>>> if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the
>>> air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct
>>> that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see
>>> what's going on with the dash off.
>>
>>
>> If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
>> resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
>> time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
>> -----------------
>> TheSnoMan.com
>
> The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
> resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
> blower cage also.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
 

What's up with the resistor strip? Why do we need it? I thought the three
position blower switch gave the three different voltgaes to the motor. I
just dont understand what the resistor strip does (other than resist)

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45fd6d79$0$6415$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> SnoMan wrote:
>> On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud@remail-it.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier
>>> if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the
>>> air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct
>>> that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see
>>> what's going on with the dash off.
>>
>>
>> If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
>> resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
>> time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
>> -----------------
>> TheSnoMan.com
>
> The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
> resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
> blower cage also.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
 

What's up with the resistor strip? Why do we need it? I thought the three
position blower switch gave the three different voltgaes to the motor. I
just dont understand what the resistor strip does (other than resist)

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45fd6d79$0$6415$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> SnoMan wrote:
>> On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud@remail-it.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier
>>> if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the
>>> air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct
>>> that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see
>>> what's going on with the dash off.
>>
>>
>> If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
>> resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
>> time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
>> -----------------
>> TheSnoMan.com
>
> The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
> resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
> blower cage also.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
 

The resisters blow off power as heat and just act like a basic voltage
regulator to slow down the motor.

The motor only has one set of wiring in it so it needs different volts
for different speeds.

Mike

Anthony T wrote:
> What's up with the resistor strip? Why do we need it? I thought the
> three position blower switch gave the three different voltgaes to the
> motor. I just dont understand what the resistor strip does (other than
> resist)
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45fd6d79$0$6415$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> SnoMan wrote:
>>> On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud@remail-it.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be
>>>> easier if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that
>>>> runs from the air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It
>>>> was this duct that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's
>>>> easier to see what's going on with the dash off.
>>>
>>>
>>> If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
>>> resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
>>> time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
>>> -----------------
>>> TheSnoMan.com
>>
>> The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
>> resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
>> blower cage also.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>

Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
 

The resisters blow off power as heat and just act like a basic voltage
regulator to slow down the motor.

The motor only has one set of wiring in it so it needs different volts
for different speeds.

Mike

Anthony T wrote:
> What's up with the resistor strip? Why do we need it? I thought the
> three position blower switch gave the three different voltgaes to the
> motor. I just dont understand what the resistor strip does (other than
> resist)
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45fd6d79$0$6415$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> SnoMan wrote:
>>> On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud@remail-it.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be
>>>> easier if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that
>>>> runs from the air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It
>>>> was this duct that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's
>>>> easier to see what's going on with the dash off.
>>>
>>>
>>> If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
>>> resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
>>> time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
>>> -----------------
>>> TheSnoMan.com
>>
>> The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
>> resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
>> blower cage also.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>

Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
 

The resisters blow off power as heat and just act like a basic voltage
regulator to slow down the motor.

The motor only has one set of wiring in it so it needs different volts
for different speeds.

Mike

Anthony T wrote:
> What's up with the resistor strip? Why do we need it? I thought the
> three position blower switch gave the three different voltgaes to the
> motor. I just dont understand what the resistor strip does (other than
> resist)
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45fd6d79$0$6415$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> SnoMan wrote:
>>> On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud@remail-it.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be
>>>> easier if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that
>>>> runs from the air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It
>>>> was this duct that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's
>>>> easier to see what's going on with the dash off.
>>>
>>>
>>> If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
>>> resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
>>> time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
>>> -----------------
>>> TheSnoMan.com
>>
>> The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
>> resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
>> blower cage also.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>