jdory at gci dotnet

I'm up in rural Alaska and can't shop except via the net so I could use
some help in deciding on a product. My old original tub is rotten so
needing a new one. I'm thinking fiberglass.. don't mind running a couple
extra ground wires. Fiberglass seems easier to work with... and I'm
concerned the metal ones are thinner than original and may not hold up
so well? Could be wrong on that. I do live next to the ocean (salt).

Anyone have favorite tubs and anything else to help steer me in a right
direction?

I have an aftermarket 'sports' roll bar that just bolts to the tub
fenderwells. Not a full cage, though wouldn't mind adding that. Not
handy with a welder, but can do a little. Have access to that and a good
shop.

appreciate any help.
thanks, JD

Del Rawlins

In <109tk39tlmku1eb@corp.supernews.com> jdory at gci dotnet wrote:
> I'm up in rural Alaska and can't shop except via the net so I could
> use some help in deciding on a product. My old original tub is rotten
> so needing a new one. I'm thinking fiberglass.. don't mind running a
> couple extra ground wires. Fiberglass seems easier to work with...
> and I'm concerned the metal ones are thinner than original and may
> not hold up so well? Could be wrong on that. I do live next to the
> ocean (salt).

Where in Alaska? I grew up in Cordova and now live in Anchorage. If
you end up going with a replacement steel tub you have to plan on
protecting it really well from the start or else it will just rust out
again. A coat or two of epoxy primer would be the least amount of
protection you want to give it, and pay particular attention to the
underbody. On the truck that I saved from rust I used herculiner on the
undersides of all the wheel wells in addition to a lot of POR-15 and
epoxy primer.

There are also aluminum tubs available which I would strongly consider,
but I would still use a lot of epoxy primer just in case and a layer of
sealant between any steel and aluminum parts to prevent dissimilar metal
corrosion. And use anti-sieze compound on the hardware. I replaced
most of the body bolts on my truck with stainless steel.

> I have an aftermarket 'sports' roll bar that just bolts to the tub
> fenderwells. Not a full cage, though wouldn't mind adding that. Not
> handy with a welder, but can do a little. Have access to that and a
> good shop.

You will definitely want to tie your roll bar into the frame, even if
you go with a steel tub. If you can get the mounts tacked to the frame,
you can then get somebody who IS good with a welder to finish it up for
you.

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins- del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/

Del Rawlins

In <109tk39tlmku1eb@corp.supernews.com> jdory at gci dotnet wrote:
> I'm up in rural Alaska and can't shop except via the net so I could
> use some help in deciding on a product. My old original tub is rotten
> so needing a new one. I'm thinking fiberglass.. don't mind running a
> couple extra ground wires. Fiberglass seems easier to work with...
> and I'm concerned the metal ones are thinner than original and may
> not hold up so well? Could be wrong on that. I do live next to the
> ocean (salt).

Where in Alaska? I grew up in Cordova and now live in Anchorage. If
you end up going with a replacement steel tub you have to plan on
protecting it really well from the start or else it will just rust out
again. A coat or two of epoxy primer would be the least amount of
protection you want to give it, and pay particular attention to the
underbody. On the truck that I saved from rust I used herculiner on the
undersides of all the wheel wells in addition to a lot of POR-15 and
epoxy primer.

There are also aluminum tubs available which I would strongly consider,
but I would still use a lot of epoxy primer just in case and a layer of
sealant between any steel and aluminum parts to prevent dissimilar metal
corrosion. And use anti-sieze compound on the hardware. I replaced
most of the body bolts on my truck with stainless steel.

> I have an aftermarket 'sports' roll bar that just bolts to the tub
> fenderwells. Not a full cage, though wouldn't mind adding that. Not
> handy with a welder, but can do a little. Have access to that and a
> good shop.

You will definitely want to tie your roll bar into the frame, even if
you go with a steel tub. If you can get the mounts tacked to the frame,
you can then get somebody who IS good with a welder to finish it up for
you.

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins- del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/

Del Rawlins

In <109tk39tlmku1eb@corp.supernews.com> jdory at gci dotnet wrote:
> I'm up in rural Alaska and can't shop except via the net so I could
> use some help in deciding on a product. My old original tub is rotten
> so needing a new one. I'm thinking fiberglass.. don't mind running a
> couple extra ground wires. Fiberglass seems easier to work with...
> and I'm concerned the metal ones are thinner than original and may
> not hold up so well? Could be wrong on that. I do live next to the
> ocean (salt).

Where in Alaska? I grew up in Cordova and now live in Anchorage. If
you end up going with a replacement steel tub you have to plan on
protecting it really well from the start or else it will just rust out
again. A coat or two of epoxy primer would be the least amount of
protection you want to give it, and pay particular attention to the
underbody. On the truck that I saved from rust I used herculiner on the
undersides of all the wheel wells in addition to a lot of POR-15 and
epoxy primer.

There are also aluminum tubs available which I would strongly consider,
but I would still use a lot of epoxy primer just in case and a layer of
sealant between any steel and aluminum parts to prevent dissimilar metal
corrosion. And use anti-sieze compound on the hardware. I replaced
most of the body bolts on my truck with stainless steel.

> I have an aftermarket 'sports' roll bar that just bolts to the tub
> fenderwells. Not a full cage, though wouldn't mind adding that. Not
> handy with a welder, but can do a little. Have access to that and a
> good shop.

You will definitely want to tie your roll bar into the frame, even if
you go with a steel tub. If you can get the mounts tacked to the frame,
you can then get somebody who IS good with a welder to finish it up for
you.

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins- del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/

Del Rawlins

In <109tk39tlmku1eb@corp.supernews.com> jdory at gci dotnet wrote:
> I'm up in rural Alaska and can't shop except via the net so I could
> use some help in deciding on a product. My old original tub is rotten
> so needing a new one. I'm thinking fiberglass.. don't mind running a
> couple extra ground wires. Fiberglass seems easier to work with...
> and I'm concerned the metal ones are thinner than original and may
> not hold up so well? Could be wrong on that. I do live next to the
> ocean (salt).

Where in Alaska? I grew up in Cordova and now live in Anchorage. If
you end up going with a replacement steel tub you have to plan on
protecting it really well from the start or else it will just rust out
again. A coat or two of epoxy primer would be the least amount of
protection you want to give it, and pay particular attention to the
underbody. On the truck that I saved from rust I used herculiner on the
undersides of all the wheel wells in addition to a lot of POR-15 and
epoxy primer.

There are also aluminum tubs available which I would strongly consider,
but I would still use a lot of epoxy primer just in case and a layer of
sealant between any steel and aluminum parts to prevent dissimilar metal
corrosion. And use anti-sieze compound on the hardware. I replaced
most of the body bolts on my truck with stainless steel.

> I have an aftermarket 'sports' roll bar that just bolts to the tub
> fenderwells. Not a full cage, though wouldn't mind adding that. Not
> handy with a welder, but can do a little. Have access to that and a
> good shop.

You will definitely want to tie your roll bar into the frame, even if
you go with a steel tub. If you can get the mounts tacked to the frame,
you can then get somebody who IS good with a welder to finish it up for
you.

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins- del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/

Lee Ayrton

I recently put a steel "Replitub" from Wyllys-Overland on my `79 CJ-5
restoration. They told me that all of the repop steel tubs come from the
same plant in the Philippines, so the only variation is in whatever prep
the vendor does before sending the tub to you -- the tubs come to them in
a "one size fits, um, none of them exactly, really" flavor. W-O punches
some holes in places that you'll need them (like the heater box holes and
fuel filler), modifies some of the tub and front seat mounting points. I
still needed to add reinforcement for seat belts and some miscellaneous
small holes. OK, so a lot of small holes, like the feed-through hole for
my wiper harness.

You are correct about the steel quality -- it is neither as thick nor as
hard as the OEM metal used and it will rust at the drop of a hat if
exposed to moisture. On the other hand, fiberglass will shatter on
impact, so you pays your money and takes yer chances, rustable or
breakable. I don't know if it is still a problem but older glass tubs had
issues with the thickness of the firewall requiring modification to brake
and clutch linkages. Whatever your choice, keep your old tub as a
template until you are sure that you've drilled all the holes you need --
for instance, I spent a lot of time scratching my head trying to work out
just where the mounting brackets for my top bows should be.

Good luck!
On Sun, 9 May 2004, it was written:

> I'm up in rural Alaska and can't shop except via the net so I could use
> some help in deciding on a product. My old original tub is rotten so
> needing a new one. I'm thinking fiberglass.. don't mind running a couple
> extra ground wires. Fiberglass seems easier to work with... and I'm
> concerned the metal ones are thinner than original and may not hold up
> so well? Could be wrong on that. I do live next to the ocean (salt).
>
> Anyone have favorite tubs and anything else to help steer me in a right
> direction?

Lee Ayrton

I recently put a steel "Replitub" from Wyllys-Overland on my `79 CJ-5
restoration. They told me that all of the repop steel tubs come from the
same plant in the Philippines, so the only variation is in whatever prep
the vendor does before sending the tub to you -- the tubs come to them in
a "one size fits, um, none of them exactly, really" flavor. W-O punches
some holes in places that you'll need them (like the heater box holes and
fuel filler), modifies some of the tub and front seat mounting points. I
still needed to add reinforcement for seat belts and some miscellaneous
small holes. OK, so a lot of small holes, like the feed-through hole for
my wiper harness.

You are correct about the steel quality -- it is neither as thick nor as
hard as the OEM metal used and it will rust at the drop of a hat if
exposed to moisture. On the other hand, fiberglass will shatter on
impact, so you pays your money and takes yer chances, rustable or
breakable. I don't know if it is still a problem but older glass tubs had
issues with the thickness of the firewall requiring modification to brake
and clutch linkages. Whatever your choice, keep your old tub as a
template until you are sure that you've drilled all the holes you need --
for instance, I spent a lot of time scratching my head trying to work out
just where the mounting brackets for my top bows should be.

Good luck!
On Sun, 9 May 2004, it was written:

> I'm up in rural Alaska and can't shop except via the net so I could use
> some help in deciding on a product. My old original tub is rotten so
> needing a new one. I'm thinking fiberglass.. don't mind running a couple
> extra ground wires. Fiberglass seems easier to work with... and I'm
> concerned the metal ones are thinner than original and may not hold up
> so well? Could be wrong on that. I do live next to the ocean (salt).
>
> Anyone have favorite tubs and anything else to help steer me in a right
> direction?

Lee Ayrton

I recently put a steel "Replitub" from Wyllys-Overland on my `79 CJ-5
restoration. They told me that all of the repop steel tubs come from the
same plant in the Philippines, so the only variation is in whatever prep
the vendor does before sending the tub to you -- the tubs come to them in
a "one size fits, um, none of them exactly, really" flavor. W-O punches
some holes in places that you'll need them (like the heater box holes and
fuel filler), modifies some of the tub and front seat mounting points. I
still needed to add reinforcement for seat belts and some miscellaneous
small holes. OK, so a lot of small holes, like the feed-through hole for
my wiper harness.

You are correct about the steel quality -- it is neither as thick nor as
hard as the OEM metal used and it will rust at the drop of a hat if
exposed to moisture. On the other hand, fiberglass will shatter on
impact, so you pays your money and takes yer chances, rustable or
breakable. I don't know if it is still a problem but older glass tubs had
issues with the thickness of the firewall requiring modification to brake
and clutch linkages. Whatever your choice, keep your old tub as a
template until you are sure that you've drilled all the holes you need --
for instance, I spent a lot of time scratching my head trying to work out
just where the mounting brackets for my top bows should be.

Good luck!
On Sun, 9 May 2004, it was written:

> I'm up in rural Alaska and can't shop except via the net so I could use
> some help in deciding on a product. My old original tub is rotten so
> needing a new one. I'm thinking fiberglass.. don't mind running a couple
> extra ground wires. Fiberglass seems easier to work with... and I'm
> concerned the metal ones are thinner than original and may not hold up
> so well? Could be wrong on that. I do live next to the ocean (salt).
>
> Anyone have favorite tubs and anything else to help steer me in a right
> direction?

Lee Ayrton

I recently put a steel "Replitub" from Wyllys-Overland on my `79 CJ-5
restoration. They told me that all of the repop steel tubs come from the
same plant in the Philippines, so the only variation is in whatever prep
the vendor does before sending the tub to you -- the tubs come to them in
a "one size fits, um, none of them exactly, really" flavor. W-O punches
some holes in places that you'll need them (like the heater box holes and
fuel filler), modifies some of the tub and front seat mounting points. I
still needed to add reinforcement for seat belts and some miscellaneous
small holes. OK, so a lot of small holes, like the feed-through hole for
my wiper harness.

You are correct about the steel quality -- it is neither as thick nor as
hard as the OEM metal used and it will rust at the drop of a hat if
exposed to moisture. On the other hand, fiberglass will shatter on
impact, so you pays your money and takes yer chances, rustable or
breakable. I don't know if it is still a problem but older glass tubs had
issues with the thickness of the firewall requiring modification to brake
and clutch linkages. Whatever your choice, keep your old tub as a
template until you are sure that you've drilled all the holes you need --
for instance, I spent a lot of time scratching my head trying to work out
just where the mounting brackets for my top bows should be.

Good luck!
On Sun, 9 May 2004, it was written:

> I'm up in rural Alaska and can't shop except via the net so I could use
> some help in deciding on a product. My old original tub is rotten so
> needing a new one. I'm thinking fiberglass.. don't mind running a couple
> extra ground wires. Fiberglass seems easier to work with... and I'm
> concerned the metal ones are thinner than original and may not hold up
> so well? Could be wrong on that. I do live next to the ocean (salt).
>
> Anyone have favorite tubs and anything else to help steer me in a right
> direction?

jdory at gci dotnet

Del Rawlins wrote:
> >
>
> Where in Alaska? I grew up in Cordova and now live in Anchorage. If
> you end up going with a replacement steel tub you have to plan on
> protecting it really well from the start or else it will just rust out
> again. A coat or two of epoxy primer would be the least amount of
> protection you want to give it, and pay particular attention to the
> underbody. On the truck that I saved from rust I used herculiner on the
> undersides of all the wheel wells in addition to a lot of POR-15 and

I'm in Nome. Have to fly or barge whatever I get here.. kinda sucks.


>
> There are also aluminum tubs available which I would strongly consider,
> but I would still use a lot of epoxy primer just in case and a layer of
> sealant between any steel and aluminum parts to prevent dissimilar metal
> corrosion.


I took a look at some aluminum tubs on the net and they seemed to be for
later models.. '76 and up. They're pricey, but if worth it I could
consider them. I did build a boat using wood, fiberglass, and epoxy so I
have some experience there.. fiberglass.


>
>
> You will definitely want to tie your roll bar into the frame, even if
> you go with a steel tub. If you can get the mounts tacked to the frame,
> you can then get somebody who IS good with a welder to finish it up for
> you.

Yeah.. never felt too safe as it is.

Where do you get your stuff? I also need a supertop, but hate the
4wd.com shipping prices to Alaska.

cheers, JIm