L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Some Real Jeeps don't use a hood, at least until the owner gets
sprayed with hot oil: http://www.----------.com/JeepNOhood.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Drink wrote:
>
> I peeked at the website and thought, "Nice motor. What's that pile o'
> crap it's sittin' on?" and then realized it's a Jeep. :) Haha! It's gonna
> be even better. Breakin' 'em's cool sometime. That scoop looks pretty cool
> too. I've thought a couple of times to put one on except backwards 'cause
> I'm not planning on riding with the windshield down. What size is that
> thing?
> P.S. Still waitin' for Bill to rumble, "Real Jeeps don't have damned hood
> scoops... like my dragster back in '72":)
>
> --
>
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W

c

"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:jneo8054c6k61cuglngagoke5qog9l53uf@4ax.com...
> Whoo hoo! Check it out:
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jee...e3/stage3.html
>
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!

Glad to see you got your Jeep runnin again. One thing you might want to look
into about your idle problem, Holley carbs have a power vavle in them that
can be damaged by carb backfires. The new carbs, like your Avenger, have
what Holley calls a power vavle protection circuit, but it is not 100%
effective. Your engine's symptoms are very simiar to what a blown power
valve will act like. The first thing is to check for any air leaks on the
carb base and manifold gaskets. The next thing is to check the timing
properly with a timing light. Unhook the vacuum advance, set the idle to
something less than 900 or so, and then set the timing to about 10 degrees
before tdc. Hook the vacuum advance up, set the idle speed to near where you
want it to run. Now start adjusting the idle mixture screws. I normally
start by turning them in to see if the idle gets better when I suspect a
blown power valve. If it runs best with the screws all the way in, then more
than likely the power valve is shot. If it seems to check out good, then
slowly adjust the mixture screws in or out to obtain the best idle. An
important thing is to do each side a little at a time. If you turn one screw
in a quarter turn and it helps, then go to the other side and do the same
thing, repeat until you have your best idle. Also, if the idle speed picks
up too much while you're doing this, readjust it to your original setting
and go back to the mixture screws.

Chris

c

"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:jneo8054c6k61cuglngagoke5qog9l53uf@4ax.com...
> Whoo hoo! Check it out:
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jee...e3/stage3.html
>
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!

Glad to see you got your Jeep runnin again. One thing you might want to look
into about your idle problem, Holley carbs have a power vavle in them that
can be damaged by carb backfires. The new carbs, like your Avenger, have
what Holley calls a power vavle protection circuit, but it is not 100%
effective. Your engine's symptoms are very simiar to what a blown power
valve will act like. The first thing is to check for any air leaks on the
carb base and manifold gaskets. The next thing is to check the timing
properly with a timing light. Unhook the vacuum advance, set the idle to
something less than 900 or so, and then set the timing to about 10 degrees
before tdc. Hook the vacuum advance up, set the idle speed to near where you
want it to run. Now start adjusting the idle mixture screws. I normally
start by turning them in to see if the idle gets better when I suspect a
blown power valve. If it runs best with the screws all the way in, then more
than likely the power valve is shot. If it seems to check out good, then
slowly adjust the mixture screws in or out to obtain the best idle. An
important thing is to do each side a little at a time. If you turn one screw
in a quarter turn and it helps, then go to the other side and do the same
thing, repeat until you have your best idle. Also, if the idle speed picks
up too much while you're doing this, readjust it to your original setting
and go back to the mixture screws.

Chris

c

"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:jneo8054c6k61cuglngagoke5qog9l53uf@4ax.com...
> Whoo hoo! Check it out:
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jee...e3/stage3.html
>
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!

Glad to see you got your Jeep runnin again. One thing you might want to look
into about your idle problem, Holley carbs have a power vavle in them that
can be damaged by carb backfires. The new carbs, like your Avenger, have
what Holley calls a power vavle protection circuit, but it is not 100%
effective. Your engine's symptoms are very simiar to what a blown power
valve will act like. The first thing is to check for any air leaks on the
carb base and manifold gaskets. The next thing is to check the timing
properly with a timing light. Unhook the vacuum advance, set the idle to
something less than 900 or so, and then set the timing to about 10 degrees
before tdc. Hook the vacuum advance up, set the idle speed to near where you
want it to run. Now start adjusting the idle mixture screws. I normally
start by turning them in to see if the idle gets better when I suspect a
blown power valve. If it runs best with the screws all the way in, then more
than likely the power valve is shot. If it seems to check out good, then
slowly adjust the mixture screws in or out to obtain the best idle. An
important thing is to do each side a little at a time. If you turn one screw
in a quarter turn and it helps, then go to the other side and do the same
thing, repeat until you have your best idle. Also, if the idle speed picks
up too much while you're doing this, readjust it to your original setting
and go back to the mixture screws.

Chris

c

"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:jneo8054c6k61cuglngagoke5qog9l53uf@4ax.com...
> Whoo hoo! Check it out:
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jee...e3/stage3.html
>
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!

Glad to see you got your Jeep runnin again. One thing you might want to look
into about your idle problem, Holley carbs have a power vavle in them that
can be damaged by carb backfires. The new carbs, like your Avenger, have
what Holley calls a power vavle protection circuit, but it is not 100%
effective. Your engine's symptoms are very simiar to what a blown power
valve will act like. The first thing is to check for any air leaks on the
carb base and manifold gaskets. The next thing is to check the timing
properly with a timing light. Unhook the vacuum advance, set the idle to
something less than 900 or so, and then set the timing to about 10 degrees
before tdc. Hook the vacuum advance up, set the idle speed to near where you
want it to run. Now start adjusting the idle mixture screws. I normally
start by turning them in to see if the idle gets better when I suspect a
blown power valve. If it runs best with the screws all the way in, then more
than likely the power valve is shot. If it seems to check out good, then
slowly adjust the mixture screws in or out to obtain the best idle. An
important thing is to do each side a little at a time. If you turn one screw
in a quarter turn and it helps, then go to the other side and do the same
thing, repeat until you have your best idle. Also, if the idle speed picks
up too much while you're doing this, readjust it to your original setting
and go back to the mixture screws.

Chris

Shaggie

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 18:48:59 -0500, "Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote:

> Are those headers goin' to straight pipes?! I dread when I have to drive
>with open shortie headers to the muffler shop. Hey Bill, got any advice on
>that one?

No, those straight pipes run under the frame and dump into 2 mufflers
before exiting at the rear. I'm going to either go with a set of
in-frame headers or to get those pipes inside where they can't be seen
or I'm going to move the mufflers over to the outside of the frame and
keep the headers I have and just put some turn-outs on the end of the
mufflers. I haven't decided which way to go yet.

> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
>EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
>"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>news:HlXic.901$KR6.54747@news.uswest.net...
>> Aren't bonfires fun??? Mine took out ALL the wiring, radiator,
>> carb, alternator, hoses, hood (way warped), and who knows what else.
>>
>> Nice to see it back together again!
>>
>> Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> > Whoo hoo! Check it out:
>> > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jee...e3/stage3.html
>> >
>> >
>> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> > :wq!
>

"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!

Shaggie

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 18:48:59 -0500, "Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote:

> Are those headers goin' to straight pipes?! I dread when I have to drive
>with open shortie headers to the muffler shop. Hey Bill, got any advice on
>that one?

No, those straight pipes run under the frame and dump into 2 mufflers
before exiting at the rear. I'm going to either go with a set of
in-frame headers or to get those pipes inside where they can't be seen
or I'm going to move the mufflers over to the outside of the frame and
keep the headers I have and just put some turn-outs on the end of the
mufflers. I haven't decided which way to go yet.

> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
>EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
>"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>news:HlXic.901$KR6.54747@news.uswest.net...
>> Aren't bonfires fun??? Mine took out ALL the wiring, radiator,
>> carb, alternator, hoses, hood (way warped), and who knows what else.
>>
>> Nice to see it back together again!
>>
>> Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> > Whoo hoo! Check it out:
>> > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jee...e3/stage3.html
>> >
>> >
>> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> > :wq!
>

"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!

Shaggie

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 18:48:59 -0500, "Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote:

> Are those headers goin' to straight pipes?! I dread when I have to drive
>with open shortie headers to the muffler shop. Hey Bill, got any advice on
>that one?

No, those straight pipes run under the frame and dump into 2 mufflers
before exiting at the rear. I'm going to either go with a set of
in-frame headers or to get those pipes inside where they can't be seen
or I'm going to move the mufflers over to the outside of the frame and
keep the headers I have and just put some turn-outs on the end of the
mufflers. I haven't decided which way to go yet.

> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
>EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
>"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>news:HlXic.901$KR6.54747@news.uswest.net...
>> Aren't bonfires fun??? Mine took out ALL the wiring, radiator,
>> carb, alternator, hoses, hood (way warped), and who knows what else.
>>
>> Nice to see it back together again!
>>
>> Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> > Whoo hoo! Check it out:
>> > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jee...e3/stage3.html
>> >
>> >
>> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> > :wq!
>

"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!

Shaggie

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 18:48:59 -0500, "Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote:

> Are those headers goin' to straight pipes?! I dread when I have to drive
>with open shortie headers to the muffler shop. Hey Bill, got any advice on
>that one?

No, those straight pipes run under the frame and dump into 2 mufflers
before exiting at the rear. I'm going to either go with a set of
in-frame headers or to get those pipes inside where they can't be seen
or I'm going to move the mufflers over to the outside of the frame and
keep the headers I have and just put some turn-outs on the end of the
mufflers. I haven't decided which way to go yet.

> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
>EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
>"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>news:HlXic.901$KR6.54747@news.uswest.net...
>> Aren't bonfires fun??? Mine took out ALL the wiring, radiator,
>> carb, alternator, hoses, hood (way warped), and who knows what else.
>>
>> Nice to see it back together again!
>>
>> Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> > Whoo hoo! Check it out:
>> > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jee...e3/stage3.html
>> >
>> >
>> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> > :wq!
>

"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!

Shaggie

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 18:46:07 -0500, "Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote:

> I peeked at the website and thought, "Nice motor. What's that pile o'
>crap it's sittin' on?" and then realized it's a Jeep. :) Haha! It's gonna
>be even better. Breakin' 'em's cool sometime. That scoop looks pretty cool
>too. I've thought a couple of times to put one on except backwards 'cause
>I'm not planning on riding with the windshield down. What size is that
>thing?

18"W x 5"H x 35-1/2"L

>P.S. Still waitin' for Bill to rumble, "Real Jeeps don't have damned hood
>scoops... like my dragster back in '72":)

"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!