Choke Problem
Guest
Posts: n/a
Choke Problem
Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
88 Jeep YJ
Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
4.2 L with 220,000 kms
Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
which way I need to go.
Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
bit?
Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
adjust it to where it works?
Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
properly this winter it is my ride to work.
I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
88 Jeep YJ
Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
4.2 L with 220,000 kms
Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
which way I need to go.
Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
bit?
Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
adjust it to where it works?
Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
properly this winter it is my ride to work.
I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Choke Problem
I don't know where to start....
Ok, the choke pull off hooks up to the vacuum nipple in the center of
the back side of the bottom carb plate right beside the PCV nipple. It
gets manifold vacuum.
Is your gas filter in right side up? The filter has 2 outlets, the
center outlet goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return
line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to
the tank air locking the lines when it sits. This makes them very
difficult to start when cold.
The cover on the choke should be about 2 notches rich.
With a warmed up engine, you put the fast idle cam on the second from
the top step and set the rpm at 1750 by adjusting the screw. This sets
up the fast idle part of the choke properly.
I need 3 shots to the floor of the gas pedal to have mine start first
crank in pretty much any temperature. This primes the intake manifold
and sets the choke fast idle as well.
Even with a choke operating 'perfectly', you will have issues for the
first few minutes of trying to drive it cold. The choke works on a
timer, it has no bearing on how cold the engine 'really' is so it will
want to up and die until it really warms up. That isn't a starting
issue though, just the nature of the setup.
Oh, my engine will 'not' run for ---- or start easily at all if I use
PetroCan gas. I don't know what the heck they mix the crap with, but I
lose the idle (misses like crazy) and it starts bogging out and pinging
at 100 kph. I also lose about 100 miles of travel per tank with the
junk.
I seem to run best with ESSO gas.
Hope some of this helps,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
KLB wrote:
>
> Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
>
> 88 Jeep YJ
> Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
>
> Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> which way I need to go.
>
> Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> bit?
> Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> adjust it to where it works?
> Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
Ok, the choke pull off hooks up to the vacuum nipple in the center of
the back side of the bottom carb plate right beside the PCV nipple. It
gets manifold vacuum.
Is your gas filter in right side up? The filter has 2 outlets, the
center outlet goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return
line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to
the tank air locking the lines when it sits. This makes them very
difficult to start when cold.
The cover on the choke should be about 2 notches rich.
With a warmed up engine, you put the fast idle cam on the second from
the top step and set the rpm at 1750 by adjusting the screw. This sets
up the fast idle part of the choke properly.
I need 3 shots to the floor of the gas pedal to have mine start first
crank in pretty much any temperature. This primes the intake manifold
and sets the choke fast idle as well.
Even with a choke operating 'perfectly', you will have issues for the
first few minutes of trying to drive it cold. The choke works on a
timer, it has no bearing on how cold the engine 'really' is so it will
want to up and die until it really warms up. That isn't a starting
issue though, just the nature of the setup.
Oh, my engine will 'not' run for ---- or start easily at all if I use
PetroCan gas. I don't know what the heck they mix the crap with, but I
lose the idle (misses like crazy) and it starts bogging out and pinging
at 100 kph. I also lose about 100 miles of travel per tank with the
junk.
I seem to run best with ESSO gas.
Hope some of this helps,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
KLB wrote:
>
> Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
>
> 88 Jeep YJ
> Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
>
> Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> which way I need to go.
>
> Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> bit?
> Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> adjust it to where it works?
> Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Choke Problem
I don't know where to start....
Ok, the choke pull off hooks up to the vacuum nipple in the center of
the back side of the bottom carb plate right beside the PCV nipple. It
gets manifold vacuum.
Is your gas filter in right side up? The filter has 2 outlets, the
center outlet goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return
line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to
the tank air locking the lines when it sits. This makes them very
difficult to start when cold.
The cover on the choke should be about 2 notches rich.
With a warmed up engine, you put the fast idle cam on the second from
the top step and set the rpm at 1750 by adjusting the screw. This sets
up the fast idle part of the choke properly.
I need 3 shots to the floor of the gas pedal to have mine start first
crank in pretty much any temperature. This primes the intake manifold
and sets the choke fast idle as well.
Even with a choke operating 'perfectly', you will have issues for the
first few minutes of trying to drive it cold. The choke works on a
timer, it has no bearing on how cold the engine 'really' is so it will
want to up and die until it really warms up. That isn't a starting
issue though, just the nature of the setup.
Oh, my engine will 'not' run for ---- or start easily at all if I use
PetroCan gas. I don't know what the heck they mix the crap with, but I
lose the idle (misses like crazy) and it starts bogging out and pinging
at 100 kph. I also lose about 100 miles of travel per tank with the
junk.
I seem to run best with ESSO gas.
Hope some of this helps,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
KLB wrote:
>
> Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
>
> 88 Jeep YJ
> Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
>
> Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> which way I need to go.
>
> Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> bit?
> Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> adjust it to where it works?
> Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
Ok, the choke pull off hooks up to the vacuum nipple in the center of
the back side of the bottom carb plate right beside the PCV nipple. It
gets manifold vacuum.
Is your gas filter in right side up? The filter has 2 outlets, the
center outlet goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return
line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to
the tank air locking the lines when it sits. This makes them very
difficult to start when cold.
The cover on the choke should be about 2 notches rich.
With a warmed up engine, you put the fast idle cam on the second from
the top step and set the rpm at 1750 by adjusting the screw. This sets
up the fast idle part of the choke properly.
I need 3 shots to the floor of the gas pedal to have mine start first
crank in pretty much any temperature. This primes the intake manifold
and sets the choke fast idle as well.
Even with a choke operating 'perfectly', you will have issues for the
first few minutes of trying to drive it cold. The choke works on a
timer, it has no bearing on how cold the engine 'really' is so it will
want to up and die until it really warms up. That isn't a starting
issue though, just the nature of the setup.
Oh, my engine will 'not' run for ---- or start easily at all if I use
PetroCan gas. I don't know what the heck they mix the crap with, but I
lose the idle (misses like crazy) and it starts bogging out and pinging
at 100 kph. I also lose about 100 miles of travel per tank with the
junk.
I seem to run best with ESSO gas.
Hope some of this helps,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
KLB wrote:
>
> Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
>
> 88 Jeep YJ
> Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
>
> Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> which way I need to go.
>
> Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> bit?
> Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> adjust it to where it works?
> Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Choke Problem
I don't know where to start....
Ok, the choke pull off hooks up to the vacuum nipple in the center of
the back side of the bottom carb plate right beside the PCV nipple. It
gets manifold vacuum.
Is your gas filter in right side up? The filter has 2 outlets, the
center outlet goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return
line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to
the tank air locking the lines when it sits. This makes them very
difficult to start when cold.
The cover on the choke should be about 2 notches rich.
With a warmed up engine, you put the fast idle cam on the second from
the top step and set the rpm at 1750 by adjusting the screw. This sets
up the fast idle part of the choke properly.
I need 3 shots to the floor of the gas pedal to have mine start first
crank in pretty much any temperature. This primes the intake manifold
and sets the choke fast idle as well.
Even with a choke operating 'perfectly', you will have issues for the
first few minutes of trying to drive it cold. The choke works on a
timer, it has no bearing on how cold the engine 'really' is so it will
want to up and die until it really warms up. That isn't a starting
issue though, just the nature of the setup.
Oh, my engine will 'not' run for ---- or start easily at all if I use
PetroCan gas. I don't know what the heck they mix the crap with, but I
lose the idle (misses like crazy) and it starts bogging out and pinging
at 100 kph. I also lose about 100 miles of travel per tank with the
junk.
I seem to run best with ESSO gas.
Hope some of this helps,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
KLB wrote:
>
> Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
>
> 88 Jeep YJ
> Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
>
> Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> which way I need to go.
>
> Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> bit?
> Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> adjust it to where it works?
> Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
Ok, the choke pull off hooks up to the vacuum nipple in the center of
the back side of the bottom carb plate right beside the PCV nipple. It
gets manifold vacuum.
Is your gas filter in right side up? The filter has 2 outlets, the
center outlet goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return
line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to
the tank air locking the lines when it sits. This makes them very
difficult to start when cold.
The cover on the choke should be about 2 notches rich.
With a warmed up engine, you put the fast idle cam on the second from
the top step and set the rpm at 1750 by adjusting the screw. This sets
up the fast idle part of the choke properly.
I need 3 shots to the floor of the gas pedal to have mine start first
crank in pretty much any temperature. This primes the intake manifold
and sets the choke fast idle as well.
Even with a choke operating 'perfectly', you will have issues for the
first few minutes of trying to drive it cold. The choke works on a
timer, it has no bearing on how cold the engine 'really' is so it will
want to up and die until it really warms up. That isn't a starting
issue though, just the nature of the setup.
Oh, my engine will 'not' run for ---- or start easily at all if I use
PetroCan gas. I don't know what the heck they mix the crap with, but I
lose the idle (misses like crazy) and it starts bogging out and pinging
at 100 kph. I also lose about 100 miles of travel per tank with the
junk.
I seem to run best with ESSO gas.
Hope some of this helps,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
KLB wrote:
>
> Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
>
> 88 Jeep YJ
> Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
>
> Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> which way I need to go.
>
> Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> bit?
> Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> adjust it to where it works?
> Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Choke Problem
"KLB" <klb_57@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:6775b857.0312141607.208f9c7c@posting.google.c om...
> Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
>
> 88 Jeep YJ
> Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
>
> Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> which way I need to go.
>
> Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> bit?
> Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> adjust it to where it works?
> Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
What is wrong with pumping the gas pedal twice and holding it while cranking
the key? Carburated motors frequently need a little help to get started. I
think you are spending service effort on something that doesn't need to be
serviced as much as it needs to be learned how operate.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Choke Problem
"KLB" <klb_57@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:6775b857.0312141607.208f9c7c@posting.google.c om...
> Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
>
> 88 Jeep YJ
> Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
>
> Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> which way I need to go.
>
> Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> bit?
> Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> adjust it to where it works?
> Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
What is wrong with pumping the gas pedal twice and holding it while cranking
the key? Carburated motors frequently need a little help to get started. I
think you are spending service effort on something that doesn't need to be
serviced as much as it needs to be learned how operate.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Choke Problem
"KLB" <klb_57@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:6775b857.0312141607.208f9c7c@posting.google.c om...
> Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
>
> 88 Jeep YJ
> Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
>
> Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> which way I need to go.
>
> Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> bit?
> Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> adjust it to where it works?
> Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
What is wrong with pumping the gas pedal twice and holding it while cranking
the key? Carburated motors frequently need a little help to get started. I
think you are spending service effort on something that doesn't need to be
serviced as much as it needs to be learned how operate.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Choke Problem
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3FDDDD50.B206ABC0@sympatico.ca>...
> I don't know where to start....
>
> Ok, the choke pull off hooks up to the vacuum nipple in the center of
> the back side of the bottom carb plate right beside the PCV nipple. It
> gets manifold vacuum.
Ok thats what I thought and that is where it is.
Maybe you could explain to me why the pull off is needed as the choke
opens as the vehicle warms up anyways?
> Is your gas filter in right side up? The filter has 2 outlets, the
> center outlet goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return
> line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to
> the tank air locking the lines when it sits. This makes them very
> difficult to start when cold.
It appears to be installed correctly.
> The cover on the choke should be about 2 notches rich.
I set it there this morning when the engine was cold and the plate
went to about 1/8" open, it started right up after I pumped it
twice....THANKS
> With a warmed up engine, you put the fast idle cam on the second from
> the top step and set the rpm at 1750 by adjusting the screw. This sets
> up the fast idle part of the choke properly.
The fast idle was giving me about 1200 which seems to work ok it ran
there fine until I kicked it off.
But I did notice that it is now a bit harder to start after I have
driven it around for awhile, I did install new plugs last week and I
tried the gap at .040 since I'm running a Accel Super Coil I thought I
might be able to open the gap a bit. I have since reduced the gap to
..030 which works better but from I have read now plugs will probably
have to be changed out more often. Does reducing the gap have an
effect on starting when hot?
> I need 3 shots to the floor of the gas pedal to have mine start first
> crank in pretty much any temperature. This primes the intake manifold
> and sets the choke fast idle as well.
>
> Even with a choke operating 'perfectly', you will have issues for the
> first few minutes of trying to drive it cold. The choke works on a
> timer, it has no bearing on how cold the engine 'really' is so it will
> want to up and die until it really warms up. That isn't a starting
> issue though, just the nature of the setup.
>
> Oh, my engine will 'not' run for ---- or start easily at all if I use
> PetroCan gas. I don't know what the heck they mix the crap with, but I
> lose the idle (misses like crazy) and it starts bogging out and pinging
> at 100 kph. I also lose about 100 miles of travel per tank with the
> junk.
>
> I seem to run best with ESSO gas.
>
> Hope some of this helps
It sure has helped thats for taking the time to respond.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> KLB wrote:
> >
> > Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> > here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
> >
> > 88 Jeep YJ
> > Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> > 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
> >
> > Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> > sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> > will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> > it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> > rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> > which way I need to go.
> >
> > Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> > choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> > So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> > If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> > bit?
> > Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> > I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> > Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> > Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> > adjust it to where it works?
> > Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> > properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> > I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> > to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
> I don't know where to start....
>
> Ok, the choke pull off hooks up to the vacuum nipple in the center of
> the back side of the bottom carb plate right beside the PCV nipple. It
> gets manifold vacuum.
Ok thats what I thought and that is where it is.
Maybe you could explain to me why the pull off is needed as the choke
opens as the vehicle warms up anyways?
> Is your gas filter in right side up? The filter has 2 outlets, the
> center outlet goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return
> line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to
> the tank air locking the lines when it sits. This makes them very
> difficult to start when cold.
It appears to be installed correctly.
> The cover on the choke should be about 2 notches rich.
I set it there this morning when the engine was cold and the plate
went to about 1/8" open, it started right up after I pumped it
twice....THANKS
> With a warmed up engine, you put the fast idle cam on the second from
> the top step and set the rpm at 1750 by adjusting the screw. This sets
> up the fast idle part of the choke properly.
The fast idle was giving me about 1200 which seems to work ok it ran
there fine until I kicked it off.
But I did notice that it is now a bit harder to start after I have
driven it around for awhile, I did install new plugs last week and I
tried the gap at .040 since I'm running a Accel Super Coil I thought I
might be able to open the gap a bit. I have since reduced the gap to
..030 which works better but from I have read now plugs will probably
have to be changed out more often. Does reducing the gap have an
effect on starting when hot?
> I need 3 shots to the floor of the gas pedal to have mine start first
> crank in pretty much any temperature. This primes the intake manifold
> and sets the choke fast idle as well.
>
> Even with a choke operating 'perfectly', you will have issues for the
> first few minutes of trying to drive it cold. The choke works on a
> timer, it has no bearing on how cold the engine 'really' is so it will
> want to up and die until it really warms up. That isn't a starting
> issue though, just the nature of the setup.
>
> Oh, my engine will 'not' run for ---- or start easily at all if I use
> PetroCan gas. I don't know what the heck they mix the crap with, but I
> lose the idle (misses like crazy) and it starts bogging out and pinging
> at 100 kph. I also lose about 100 miles of travel per tank with the
> junk.
>
> I seem to run best with ESSO gas.
>
> Hope some of this helps
It sure has helped thats for taking the time to respond.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> KLB wrote:
> >
> > Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> > here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
> >
> > 88 Jeep YJ
> > Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> > 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
> >
> > Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> > sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> > will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> > it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> > rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> > which way I need to go.
> >
> > Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> > choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> > So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> > If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> > bit?
> > Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> > I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> > Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> > Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> > adjust it to where it works?
> > Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> > properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> > I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> > to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Choke Problem
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3FDDDD50.B206ABC0@sympatico.ca>...
> I don't know where to start....
>
> Ok, the choke pull off hooks up to the vacuum nipple in the center of
> the back side of the bottom carb plate right beside the PCV nipple. It
> gets manifold vacuum.
Ok thats what I thought and that is where it is.
Maybe you could explain to me why the pull off is needed as the choke
opens as the vehicle warms up anyways?
> Is your gas filter in right side up? The filter has 2 outlets, the
> center outlet goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return
> line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to
> the tank air locking the lines when it sits. This makes them very
> difficult to start when cold.
It appears to be installed correctly.
> The cover on the choke should be about 2 notches rich.
I set it there this morning when the engine was cold and the plate
went to about 1/8" open, it started right up after I pumped it
twice....THANKS
> With a warmed up engine, you put the fast idle cam on the second from
> the top step and set the rpm at 1750 by adjusting the screw. This sets
> up the fast idle part of the choke properly.
The fast idle was giving me about 1200 which seems to work ok it ran
there fine until I kicked it off.
But I did notice that it is now a bit harder to start after I have
driven it around for awhile, I did install new plugs last week and I
tried the gap at .040 since I'm running a Accel Super Coil I thought I
might be able to open the gap a bit. I have since reduced the gap to
..030 which works better but from I have read now plugs will probably
have to be changed out more often. Does reducing the gap have an
effect on starting when hot?
> I need 3 shots to the floor of the gas pedal to have mine start first
> crank in pretty much any temperature. This primes the intake manifold
> and sets the choke fast idle as well.
>
> Even with a choke operating 'perfectly', you will have issues for the
> first few minutes of trying to drive it cold. The choke works on a
> timer, it has no bearing on how cold the engine 'really' is so it will
> want to up and die until it really warms up. That isn't a starting
> issue though, just the nature of the setup.
>
> Oh, my engine will 'not' run for ---- or start easily at all if I use
> PetroCan gas. I don't know what the heck they mix the crap with, but I
> lose the idle (misses like crazy) and it starts bogging out and pinging
> at 100 kph. I also lose about 100 miles of travel per tank with the
> junk.
>
> I seem to run best with ESSO gas.
>
> Hope some of this helps
It sure has helped thats for taking the time to respond.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> KLB wrote:
> >
> > Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> > here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
> >
> > 88 Jeep YJ
> > Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> > 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
> >
> > Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> > sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> > will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> > it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> > rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> > which way I need to go.
> >
> > Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> > choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> > So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> > If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> > bit?
> > Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> > I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> > Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> > Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> > adjust it to where it works?
> > Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> > properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> > I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> > to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
> I don't know where to start....
>
> Ok, the choke pull off hooks up to the vacuum nipple in the center of
> the back side of the bottom carb plate right beside the PCV nipple. It
> gets manifold vacuum.
Ok thats what I thought and that is where it is.
Maybe you could explain to me why the pull off is needed as the choke
opens as the vehicle warms up anyways?
> Is your gas filter in right side up? The filter has 2 outlets, the
> center outlet goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return
> line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to
> the tank air locking the lines when it sits. This makes them very
> difficult to start when cold.
It appears to be installed correctly.
> The cover on the choke should be about 2 notches rich.
I set it there this morning when the engine was cold and the plate
went to about 1/8" open, it started right up after I pumped it
twice....THANKS
> With a warmed up engine, you put the fast idle cam on the second from
> the top step and set the rpm at 1750 by adjusting the screw. This sets
> up the fast idle part of the choke properly.
The fast idle was giving me about 1200 which seems to work ok it ran
there fine until I kicked it off.
But I did notice that it is now a bit harder to start after I have
driven it around for awhile, I did install new plugs last week and I
tried the gap at .040 since I'm running a Accel Super Coil I thought I
might be able to open the gap a bit. I have since reduced the gap to
..030 which works better but from I have read now plugs will probably
have to be changed out more often. Does reducing the gap have an
effect on starting when hot?
> I need 3 shots to the floor of the gas pedal to have mine start first
> crank in pretty much any temperature. This primes the intake manifold
> and sets the choke fast idle as well.
>
> Even with a choke operating 'perfectly', you will have issues for the
> first few minutes of trying to drive it cold. The choke works on a
> timer, it has no bearing on how cold the engine 'really' is so it will
> want to up and die until it really warms up. That isn't a starting
> issue though, just the nature of the setup.
>
> Oh, my engine will 'not' run for ---- or start easily at all if I use
> PetroCan gas. I don't know what the heck they mix the crap with, but I
> lose the idle (misses like crazy) and it starts bogging out and pinging
> at 100 kph. I also lose about 100 miles of travel per tank with the
> junk.
>
> I seem to run best with ESSO gas.
>
> Hope some of this helps
It sure has helped thats for taking the time to respond.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> KLB wrote:
> >
> > Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> > here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
> >
> > 88 Jeep YJ
> > Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> > 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
> >
> > Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> > sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> > will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> > it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> > rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> > which way I need to go.
> >
> > Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> > choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> > So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> > If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> > bit?
> > Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> > I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> > Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> > Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> > adjust it to where it works?
> > Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> > properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> > I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> > to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Choke Problem
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3FDDDD50.B206ABC0@sympatico.ca>...
> I don't know where to start....
>
> Ok, the choke pull off hooks up to the vacuum nipple in the center of
> the back side of the bottom carb plate right beside the PCV nipple. It
> gets manifold vacuum.
Ok thats what I thought and that is where it is.
Maybe you could explain to me why the pull off is needed as the choke
opens as the vehicle warms up anyways?
> Is your gas filter in right side up? The filter has 2 outlets, the
> center outlet goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return
> line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to
> the tank air locking the lines when it sits. This makes them very
> difficult to start when cold.
It appears to be installed correctly.
> The cover on the choke should be about 2 notches rich.
I set it there this morning when the engine was cold and the plate
went to about 1/8" open, it started right up after I pumped it
twice....THANKS
> With a warmed up engine, you put the fast idle cam on the second from
> the top step and set the rpm at 1750 by adjusting the screw. This sets
> up the fast idle part of the choke properly.
The fast idle was giving me about 1200 which seems to work ok it ran
there fine until I kicked it off.
But I did notice that it is now a bit harder to start after I have
driven it around for awhile, I did install new plugs last week and I
tried the gap at .040 since I'm running a Accel Super Coil I thought I
might be able to open the gap a bit. I have since reduced the gap to
..030 which works better but from I have read now plugs will probably
have to be changed out more often. Does reducing the gap have an
effect on starting when hot?
> I need 3 shots to the floor of the gas pedal to have mine start first
> crank in pretty much any temperature. This primes the intake manifold
> and sets the choke fast idle as well.
>
> Even with a choke operating 'perfectly', you will have issues for the
> first few minutes of trying to drive it cold. The choke works on a
> timer, it has no bearing on how cold the engine 'really' is so it will
> want to up and die until it really warms up. That isn't a starting
> issue though, just the nature of the setup.
>
> Oh, my engine will 'not' run for ---- or start easily at all if I use
> PetroCan gas. I don't know what the heck they mix the crap with, but I
> lose the idle (misses like crazy) and it starts bogging out and pinging
> at 100 kph. I also lose about 100 miles of travel per tank with the
> junk.
>
> I seem to run best with ESSO gas.
>
> Hope some of this helps
It sure has helped thats for taking the time to respond.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> KLB wrote:
> >
> > Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> > here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
> >
> > 88 Jeep YJ
> > Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> > 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
> >
> > Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> > sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> > will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> > it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> > rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> > which way I need to go.
> >
> > Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> > choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> > So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> > If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> > bit?
> > Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> > I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> > Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> > Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> > adjust it to where it works?
> > Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> > properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> > I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> > to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
> I don't know where to start....
>
> Ok, the choke pull off hooks up to the vacuum nipple in the center of
> the back side of the bottom carb plate right beside the PCV nipple. It
> gets manifold vacuum.
Ok thats what I thought and that is where it is.
Maybe you could explain to me why the pull off is needed as the choke
opens as the vehicle warms up anyways?
> Is your gas filter in right side up? The filter has 2 outlets, the
> center outlet goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return
> line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to
> the tank air locking the lines when it sits. This makes them very
> difficult to start when cold.
It appears to be installed correctly.
> The cover on the choke should be about 2 notches rich.
I set it there this morning when the engine was cold and the plate
went to about 1/8" open, it started right up after I pumped it
twice....THANKS
> With a warmed up engine, you put the fast idle cam on the second from
> the top step and set the rpm at 1750 by adjusting the screw. This sets
> up the fast idle part of the choke properly.
The fast idle was giving me about 1200 which seems to work ok it ran
there fine until I kicked it off.
But I did notice that it is now a bit harder to start after I have
driven it around for awhile, I did install new plugs last week and I
tried the gap at .040 since I'm running a Accel Super Coil I thought I
might be able to open the gap a bit. I have since reduced the gap to
..030 which works better but from I have read now plugs will probably
have to be changed out more often. Does reducing the gap have an
effect on starting when hot?
> I need 3 shots to the floor of the gas pedal to have mine start first
> crank in pretty much any temperature. This primes the intake manifold
> and sets the choke fast idle as well.
>
> Even with a choke operating 'perfectly', you will have issues for the
> first few minutes of trying to drive it cold. The choke works on a
> timer, it has no bearing on how cold the engine 'really' is so it will
> want to up and die until it really warms up. That isn't a starting
> issue though, just the nature of the setup.
>
> Oh, my engine will 'not' run for ---- or start easily at all if I use
> PetroCan gas. I don't know what the heck they mix the crap with, but I
> lose the idle (misses like crazy) and it starts bogging out and pinging
> at 100 kph. I also lose about 100 miles of travel per tank with the
> junk.
>
> I seem to run best with ESSO gas.
>
> Hope some of this helps
It sure has helped thats for taking the time to respond.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> KLB wrote:
> >
> > Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> > here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
> >
> > 88 Jeep YJ
> > Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> > 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
> >
> > Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> > sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> > will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> > it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> > rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> > which way I need to go.
> >
> > Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> > choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> > So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> > If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> > bit?
> > Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> > I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> > Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> > Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> > adjust it to where it works?
> > Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> > properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> > I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> > to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
