Evan

You can probably tell from my string of questions, I just had my carb
rebuilt and now upgrading every thing around it, that the bad carb had
been masking.

Choke is next.

How is this thing supposed to work?

Is there a way to test to see if it is?

When is it supposed to idle down?

Tell me pro's and con's to a manual choke (mike I have seen some of
your other posts, and I might go that way)


This is what it is doing as of now:
Works properly when I crank, and if I let set, will eventually idle
down. But if I touch the throttle at all it idles down, often too
soon. My understanding (often wrong) the choke is set either to a
timer or the thermostat so that is should stay open even if I apply
the throttle, so that when I get off the gas, it will still idel at
open choke?—if I am wrong in my understanding, then it works, and I am
trying to drive to soon, but if I am right, something needs to be
changed or tweaked


Thanks
83 cj-8

Joe

which carb?

"Evan" <evan@trw1.net> wrote in message
news:874e5da9.0311121032.7a64d4fc@posting.google.c om...
> You can probably tell from my string of questions, I just had my carb
> rebuilt and now upgrading every thing around it, that the bad carb had
> been masking.
>
> Choke is next.
>
> How is this thing supposed to work?
>
> Is there a way to test to see if it is?
>
> When is it supposed to idle down?
>
> Tell me pro's and con's to a manual choke (mike I have seen some of
> your other posts, and I might go that way)
>
>
> This is what it is doing as of now:
> Works properly when I crank, and if I let set, will eventually idle
> down. But if I touch the throttle at all it idles down, often too
> soon. My understanding (often wrong) the choke is set either to a
> timer or the thermostat so that is should stay open even if I apply
> the throttle, so that when I get off the gas, it will still idel at
> open choke?-if I am wrong in my understanding, then it works, and I am
> trying to drive to soon, but if I am right, something needs to be
> changed or tweaked
>
>
> Thanks
> 83 cj-8

Joe

which carb?

"Evan" <evan@trw1.net> wrote in message
news:874e5da9.0311121032.7a64d4fc@posting.google.c om...
> You can probably tell from my string of questions, I just had my carb
> rebuilt and now upgrading every thing around it, that the bad carb had
> been masking.
>
> Choke is next.
>
> How is this thing supposed to work?
>
> Is there a way to test to see if it is?
>
> When is it supposed to idle down?
>
> Tell me pro's and con's to a manual choke (mike I have seen some of
> your other posts, and I might go that way)
>
>
> This is what it is doing as of now:
> Works properly when I crank, and if I let set, will eventually idle
> down. But if I touch the throttle at all it idles down, often too
> soon. My understanding (often wrong) the choke is set either to a
> timer or the thermostat so that is should stay open even if I apply
> the throttle, so that when I get off the gas, it will still idel at
> open choke?-if I am wrong in my understanding, then it works, and I am
> trying to drive to soon, but if I am right, something needs to be
> changed or tweaked
>
>
> Thanks
> 83 cj-8

Joe

which carb?

"Evan" <evan@trw1.net> wrote in message
news:874e5da9.0311121032.7a64d4fc@posting.google.c om...
> You can probably tell from my string of questions, I just had my carb
> rebuilt and now upgrading every thing around it, that the bad carb had
> been masking.
>
> Choke is next.
>
> How is this thing supposed to work?
>
> Is there a way to test to see if it is?
>
> When is it supposed to idle down?
>
> Tell me pro's and con's to a manual choke (mike I have seen some of
> your other posts, and I might go that way)
>
>
> This is what it is doing as of now:
> Works properly when I crank, and if I let set, will eventually idle
> down. But if I touch the throttle at all it idles down, often too
> soon. My understanding (often wrong) the choke is set either to a
> timer or the thermostat so that is should stay open even if I apply
> the throttle, so that when I get off the gas, it will still idel at
> open choke?-if I am wrong in my understanding, then it works, and I am
> trying to drive to soon, but if I am right, something needs to be
> changed or tweaked
>
>
> Thanks
> 83 cj-8

c

"Evan" <evan@trw1.net> wrote in message
news:874e5da9.0311121032.7a64d4fc@posting.google.c om...
> You can probably tell from my string of questions, I just had my carb
> rebuilt and now upgrading every thing around it, that the bad carb had
> been masking.
>
> Choke is next.
>
> How is this thing supposed to work?
>
> Is there a way to test to see if it is?
>
> When is it supposed to idle down?
>
> Tell me pro's and con's to a manual choke (mike I have seen some of
> your other posts, and I might go that way)
>
>
> This is what it is doing as of now:
> Works properly when I crank, and if I let set, will eventually idle
> down. But if I touch the throttle at all it idles down, often too
> soon. My understanding (often wrong) the choke is set either to a
> timer or the thermostat so that is should stay open even if I apply
> the throttle, so that when I get off the gas, it will still idel at
> open choke?-if I am wrong in my understanding, then it works, and I am
> trying to drive to soon, but if I am right, something needs to be
> changed or tweaked
>
>
> Thanks
> 83 cj-8

Unfortunately I don't have my Jeep yet, so I can explain in generic terms.

There are 4 things to look for in a properly operating choke.

1. When cold you obviously want the choke to close to aid cold starting and
idling during warm-up. To check proper operation of this, basically you just
depress the accelerator when the engine is cold enough for the spring to
close the choke. This should happen anytime the temperature is under 65-70
degrees. The choke should not close all the way, but should have roughly
1/8" opening with the engine not running. If this is not correct, there is
an adjustment for this. It sounds like yours is correct because it does
start properly.

2. After you start the engine the choke should open slightly because there
will be a diaphragm called a choke pull off that will be actuated by engine
vacuum. This can be considered adjusted properly if the engine starts and
then idles fine when cold. If the engine starts and then dies, the pull off
linkage usually needs to be adjusted to not pull the choke open quite as far
This is normally done by bending the linkage arm that runs from the choke
pull off to the choke plate in the throttle bore. If the pull off doesn't do
anything, then it is either faulty or it isn't receiving a vacuum signal
from the engine.

3. The idle speed during warm-up may be too fast or slow, this is usually a
screw adjustment on the passenger side of the carb. The screw will sit
against a stepped cam connected to the choke linkage. I normally set this by
having the engine completely warmed up and then moving the stepped cam so
that the screw is sitting against the highest point. Your engine should idle
about 1500RPM at this point. This is just a starting point and can depend on
how cold it gets and even varies from engine to engine, but it is a good
starting point.

4. The temperature that the choke opens up is adjusted by turning the black
plastic housing on electric chokes, or by bending a linkage arm on the
divorced style chokes. This sounds like it is probably what isn't right on
your choke. If it is set too lean, then the choke will start to open before
the engine is warmed up enough.


To properly set the choke up for your vehicle/climate I recommend doing the
steps in order of #3, #1, #2, $4. The carb rebuilder usually sets these
items up to a factory setting specified with the rebuild kit, but many times
these need to be adjusted to get the vehicle to run properly. I rarely find
them to be right, but it gets quite cold here in the winter. Normally I
compensate a bit by adjusting the pull off to not pull quite as far, and
possibly richen the choke spring adjustment (#4 above) by one notch on the
spring housing. It doesn't take much of a change to make a big difference in
how the engine runs cold, so do one thing at a time and make small
adjustments.

Chris

c

"Evan" <evan@trw1.net> wrote in message
news:874e5da9.0311121032.7a64d4fc@posting.google.c om...
> You can probably tell from my string of questions, I just had my carb
> rebuilt and now upgrading every thing around it, that the bad carb had
> been masking.
>
> Choke is next.
>
> How is this thing supposed to work?
>
> Is there a way to test to see if it is?
>
> When is it supposed to idle down?
>
> Tell me pro's and con's to a manual choke (mike I have seen some of
> your other posts, and I might go that way)
>
>
> This is what it is doing as of now:
> Works properly when I crank, and if I let set, will eventually idle
> down. But if I touch the throttle at all it idles down, often too
> soon. My understanding (often wrong) the choke is set either to a
> timer or the thermostat so that is should stay open even if I apply
> the throttle, so that when I get off the gas, it will still idel at
> open choke?-if I am wrong in my understanding, then it works, and I am
> trying to drive to soon, but if I am right, something needs to be
> changed or tweaked
>
>
> Thanks
> 83 cj-8

Unfortunately I don't have my Jeep yet, so I can explain in generic terms.

There are 4 things to look for in a properly operating choke.

1. When cold you obviously want the choke to close to aid cold starting and
idling during warm-up. To check proper operation of this, basically you just
depress the accelerator when the engine is cold enough for the spring to
close the choke. This should happen anytime the temperature is under 65-70
degrees. The choke should not close all the way, but should have roughly
1/8" opening with the engine not running. If this is not correct, there is
an adjustment for this. It sounds like yours is correct because it does
start properly.

2. After you start the engine the choke should open slightly because there
will be a diaphragm called a choke pull off that will be actuated by engine
vacuum. This can be considered adjusted properly if the engine starts and
then idles fine when cold. If the engine starts and then dies, the pull off
linkage usually needs to be adjusted to not pull the choke open quite as far
This is normally done by bending the linkage arm that runs from the choke
pull off to the choke plate in the throttle bore. If the pull off doesn't do
anything, then it is either faulty or it isn't receiving a vacuum signal
from the engine.

3. The idle speed during warm-up may be too fast or slow, this is usually a
screw adjustment on the passenger side of the carb. The screw will sit
against a stepped cam connected to the choke linkage. I normally set this by
having the engine completely warmed up and then moving the stepped cam so
that the screw is sitting against the highest point. Your engine should idle
about 1500RPM at this point. This is just a starting point and can depend on
how cold it gets and even varies from engine to engine, but it is a good
starting point.

4. The temperature that the choke opens up is adjusted by turning the black
plastic housing on electric chokes, or by bending a linkage arm on the
divorced style chokes. This sounds like it is probably what isn't right on
your choke. If it is set too lean, then the choke will start to open before
the engine is warmed up enough.


To properly set the choke up for your vehicle/climate I recommend doing the
steps in order of #3, #1, #2, $4. The carb rebuilder usually sets these
items up to a factory setting specified with the rebuild kit, but many times
these need to be adjusted to get the vehicle to run properly. I rarely find
them to be right, but it gets quite cold here in the winter. Normally I
compensate a bit by adjusting the pull off to not pull quite as far, and
possibly richen the choke spring adjustment (#4 above) by one notch on the
spring housing. It doesn't take much of a change to make a big difference in
how the engine runs cold, so do one thing at a time and make small
adjustments.

Chris

c

"Evan" <evan@trw1.net> wrote in message
news:874e5da9.0311121032.7a64d4fc@posting.google.c om...
> You can probably tell from my string of questions, I just had my carb
> rebuilt and now upgrading every thing around it, that the bad carb had
> been masking.
>
> Choke is next.
>
> How is this thing supposed to work?
>
> Is there a way to test to see if it is?
>
> When is it supposed to idle down?
>
> Tell me pro's and con's to a manual choke (mike I have seen some of
> your other posts, and I might go that way)
>
>
> This is what it is doing as of now:
> Works properly when I crank, and if I let set, will eventually idle
> down. But if I touch the throttle at all it idles down, often too
> soon. My understanding (often wrong) the choke is set either to a
> timer or the thermostat so that is should stay open even if I apply
> the throttle, so that when I get off the gas, it will still idel at
> open choke?-if I am wrong in my understanding, then it works, and I am
> trying to drive to soon, but if I am right, something needs to be
> changed or tweaked
>
>
> Thanks
> 83 cj-8

Unfortunately I don't have my Jeep yet, so I can explain in generic terms.

There are 4 things to look for in a properly operating choke.

1. When cold you obviously want the choke to close to aid cold starting and
idling during warm-up. To check proper operation of this, basically you just
depress the accelerator when the engine is cold enough for the spring to
close the choke. This should happen anytime the temperature is under 65-70
degrees. The choke should not close all the way, but should have roughly
1/8" opening with the engine not running. If this is not correct, there is
an adjustment for this. It sounds like yours is correct because it does
start properly.

2. After you start the engine the choke should open slightly because there
will be a diaphragm called a choke pull off that will be actuated by engine
vacuum. This can be considered adjusted properly if the engine starts and
then idles fine when cold. If the engine starts and then dies, the pull off
linkage usually needs to be adjusted to not pull the choke open quite as far
This is normally done by bending the linkage arm that runs from the choke
pull off to the choke plate in the throttle bore. If the pull off doesn't do
anything, then it is either faulty or it isn't receiving a vacuum signal
from the engine.

3. The idle speed during warm-up may be too fast or slow, this is usually a
screw adjustment on the passenger side of the carb. The screw will sit
against a stepped cam connected to the choke linkage. I normally set this by
having the engine completely warmed up and then moving the stepped cam so
that the screw is sitting against the highest point. Your engine should idle
about 1500RPM at this point. This is just a starting point and can depend on
how cold it gets and even varies from engine to engine, but it is a good
starting point.

4. The temperature that the choke opens up is adjusted by turning the black
plastic housing on electric chokes, or by bending a linkage arm on the
divorced style chokes. This sounds like it is probably what isn't right on
your choke. If it is set too lean, then the choke will start to open before
the engine is warmed up enough.


To properly set the choke up for your vehicle/climate I recommend doing the
steps in order of #3, #1, #2, $4. The carb rebuilder usually sets these
items up to a factory setting specified with the rebuild kit, but many times
these need to be adjusted to get the vehicle to run properly. I rarely find
them to be right, but it gets quite cold here in the winter. Normally I
compensate a bit by adjusting the pull off to not pull quite as far, and
possibly richen the choke spring adjustment (#4 above) by one notch on the
spring housing. It doesn't take much of a change to make a big difference in
how the engine runs cold, so do one thing at a time and make small
adjustments.

Chris

Mike Romain

To add a bit to the good info posted already, the choke is a timer type.

It opens according to how long it has seen 12 volts. It has no clue how
warm the engine really is.

Most of them should have the black cap set 2 notches rich. You can go
more, but it needs to be done when the engine is hot and running so you
don't make the choke start to close by turning the cap too rich.

Even richer it will still go off to fast in my opinion. Especially in
winter.

The fast idle is set with a fully warmed up engine. You put the fast
idle cam adjuster screw on the second from top step and set the screw
until you have 1750 rpm. This will give you 1500 or so cold.

As mentioned before, I got tired of 3 foot driving with an idle that had
to be held at 1200 rpm or it would die until it 'really' warmed up so
went manual. Choke half on works perfect for that. 1200 rpm right on.
Just helped a gent go manual in his YJ before winter a couple weeks
ago. It is pretty common up here in Canada.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Evan wrote:
>
> You can probably tell from my string of questions, I just had my carb
> rebuilt and now upgrading every thing around it, that the bad carb had
> been masking.
>
> Choke is next.
>
> How is this thing supposed to work?
>
> Is there a way to test to see if it is?
>
> When is it supposed to idle down?
>
> Tell me pro's and con's to a manual choke (mike I have seen some of
> your other posts, and I might go that way)
>
> This is what it is doing as of now:
> Works properly when I crank, and if I let set, will eventually idle
> down. But if I touch the throttle at all it idles down, often too
> soon. My understanding (often wrong) the choke is set either to a
> timer or the thermostat so that is should stay open even if I apply
> the throttle, so that when I get off the gas, it will still idel at
> open choke?—if I am wrong in my understanding, then it works, and I am
> trying to drive to soon, but if I am right, something needs to be
> changed or tweaked
>
> Thanks
> 83 cj-8

Mike Romain

To add a bit to the good info posted already, the choke is a timer type.

It opens according to how long it has seen 12 volts. It has no clue how
warm the engine really is.

Most of them should have the black cap set 2 notches rich. You can go
more, but it needs to be done when the engine is hot and running so you
don't make the choke start to close by turning the cap too rich.

Even richer it will still go off to fast in my opinion. Especially in
winter.

The fast idle is set with a fully warmed up engine. You put the fast
idle cam adjuster screw on the second from top step and set the screw
until you have 1750 rpm. This will give you 1500 or so cold.

As mentioned before, I got tired of 3 foot driving with an idle that had
to be held at 1200 rpm or it would die until it 'really' warmed up so
went manual. Choke half on works perfect for that. 1200 rpm right on.
Just helped a gent go manual in his YJ before winter a couple weeks
ago. It is pretty common up here in Canada.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Evan wrote:
>
> You can probably tell from my string of questions, I just had my carb
> rebuilt and now upgrading every thing around it, that the bad carb had
> been masking.
>
> Choke is next.
>
> How is this thing supposed to work?
>
> Is there a way to test to see if it is?
>
> When is it supposed to idle down?
>
> Tell me pro's and con's to a manual choke (mike I have seen some of
> your other posts, and I might go that way)
>
> This is what it is doing as of now:
> Works properly when I crank, and if I let set, will eventually idle
> down. But if I touch the throttle at all it idles down, often too
> soon. My understanding (often wrong) the choke is set either to a
> timer or the thermostat so that is should stay open even if I apply
> the throttle, so that when I get off the gas, it will still idel at
> open choke?—if I am wrong in my understanding, then it works, and I am
> trying to drive to soon, but if I am right, something needs to be
> changed or tweaked
>
> Thanks
> 83 cj-8

Mike Romain

To add a bit to the good info posted already, the choke is a timer type.

It opens according to how long it has seen 12 volts. It has no clue how
warm the engine really is.

Most of them should have the black cap set 2 notches rich. You can go
more, but it needs to be done when the engine is hot and running so you
don't make the choke start to close by turning the cap too rich.

Even richer it will still go off to fast in my opinion. Especially in
winter.

The fast idle is set with a fully warmed up engine. You put the fast
idle cam adjuster screw on the second from top step and set the screw
until you have 1750 rpm. This will give you 1500 or so cold.

As mentioned before, I got tired of 3 foot driving with an idle that had
to be held at 1200 rpm or it would die until it 'really' warmed up so
went manual. Choke half on works perfect for that. 1200 rpm right on.
Just helped a gent go manual in his YJ before winter a couple weeks
ago. It is pretty common up here in Canada.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Evan wrote:
>
> You can probably tell from my string of questions, I just had my carb
> rebuilt and now upgrading every thing around it, that the bad carb had
> been masking.
>
> Choke is next.
>
> How is this thing supposed to work?
>
> Is there a way to test to see if it is?
>
> When is it supposed to idle down?
>
> Tell me pro's and con's to a manual choke (mike I have seen some of
> your other posts, and I might go that way)
>
> This is what it is doing as of now:
> Works properly when I crank, and if I let set, will eventually idle
> down. But if I touch the throttle at all it idles down, often too
> soon. My understanding (often wrong) the choke is set either to a
> timer or the thermostat so that is should stay open even if I apply
> the throttle, so that when I get off the gas, it will still idel at
> open choke?—if I am wrong in my understanding, then it works, and I am
> trying to drive to soon, but if I am right, something needs to be
> changed or tweaked
>
> Thanks
> 83 cj-8