That is how they are put together and taken apart. You may have to purchase
an offset box end wrench of the proper size, but there should be just enough
room to tighten those bolts.

Earle

"Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
news:hiCXf.49826$zr.11543@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
> This is looking/sounding promising. it is just the sort of sound I'm
> getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
> occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
> removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
> towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a
wrench
> in there and tighten things up?
>
> Alan
>
>
> "Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
> > True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval
shape,
> > then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
> > additional
> > use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
> > most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
> >> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
> > knock
> >> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
> >> converter
> >> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
> > checked/tightened
> >> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil
pan.
> > The
> >> tranny stays in the jeep.
> >>
> >> JoBo
> >>
> >>
> >> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
> >> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly
awful
> >> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
> >> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
> >> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
> > fine.
> >> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
> > banging
> >> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as
soon
> > as
> >> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
> >> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
> > enough
> >> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
> > fluid
> >> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
> > away.
> >> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
> >> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
> >> > the
> >> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
> > banging
> >> > away on the over run.
> >> >
> >> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
> >> > some
> >> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
> > book
> >> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
> >> >
> >> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
> >> >
> >> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
> >> >
> >> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
> >> >
> >> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
> >> >
> >> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate
with
> >> > white paint
> >> >
> >> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
> >> >
> >> > and so on etc.
> >> >
> >> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able
to
> >> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
> >> > The
> >> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
> >> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I
didnt
> >> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
> >> > moment.)
> >> >
> >> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
> >> >
> >> > TIA
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> > *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> > http://www.SecureIX.com ***
>
>


*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***

 

That is how they are put together and taken apart. You may have to purchase
an offset box end wrench of the proper size, but there should be just enough
room to tighten those bolts.

Earle

"Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
news:hiCXf.49826$zr.11543@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
> This is looking/sounding promising. it is just the sort of sound I'm
> getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
> occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
> removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
> towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a
wrench
> in there and tighten things up?
>
> Alan
>
>
> "Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
> > True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval
shape,
> > then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
> > additional
> > use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
> > most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
> >> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
> > knock
> >> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
> >> converter
> >> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
> > checked/tightened
> >> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil
pan.
> > The
> >> tranny stays in the jeep.
> >>
> >> JoBo
> >>
> >>
> >> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
> >> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly
awful
> >> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
> >> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
> >> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
> > fine.
> >> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
> > banging
> >> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as
soon
> > as
> >> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
> >> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
> > enough
> >> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
> > fluid
> >> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
> > away.
> >> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
> >> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
> >> > the
> >> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
> > banging
> >> > away on the over run.
> >> >
> >> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
> >> > some
> >> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
> > book
> >> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
> >> >
> >> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
> >> >
> >> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
> >> >
> >> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
> >> >
> >> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
> >> >
> >> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate
with
> >> > white paint
> >> >
> >> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
> >> >
> >> > and so on etc.
> >> >
> >> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able
to
> >> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
> >> > The
> >> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
> >> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I
didnt
> >> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
> >> > moment.)
> >> >
> >> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
> >> >
> >> > TIA
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> > *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> > http://www.SecureIX.com ***
>
>


*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***

 

"Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
> knock type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
> converter is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
> checked/tightened by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just
> behind the oil pan. The tranny stays in the jeep.
>

I had a chance today to ave a look under (but not to work on it) and I've
seen the plate referred to. Looks like I can get it off no problem, but
theres very little room between that and the oil pan. was wondering (i.e.
hoping) if the bolts go through the back of the flywheel into the torque
converter. Does anyone have a link to any pictures or assembly diagrams of
this area they could post? I'm trying to get an idea in advance of what I
will find when I remove the plate, orientation/position of bolts, shape/size
of components etc.

TIA

Alan

 

"Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
> knock type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
> converter is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
> checked/tightened by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just
> behind the oil pan. The tranny stays in the jeep.
>

I had a chance today to ave a look under (but not to work on it) and I've
seen the plate referred to. Looks like I can get it off no problem, but
theres very little room between that and the oil pan. was wondering (i.e.
hoping) if the bolts go through the back of the flywheel into the torque
converter. Does anyone have a link to any pictures or assembly diagrams of
this area they could post? I'm trying to get an idea in advance of what I
will find when I remove the plate, orientation/position of bolts, shape/size
of components etc.

TIA

Alan

 

"Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
> knock type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
> converter is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
> checked/tightened by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just
> behind the oil pan. The tranny stays in the jeep.
>

I had a chance today to ave a look under (but not to work on it) and I've
seen the plate referred to. Looks like I can get it off no problem, but
theres very little room between that and the oil pan. was wondering (i.e.
hoping) if the bolts go through the back of the flywheel into the torque
converter. Does anyone have a link to any pictures or assembly diagrams of
this area they could post? I'm trying to get an idea in advance of what I
will find when I remove the plate, orientation/position of bolts, shape/size
of components etc.

TIA

Alan

 

I thought I would share the results of some research I've been doing.

this link:

http://www.alldata.com/techtips/2002/20020308c.html

Is I think pretty much on the money in terms of diagnosis/symptoms.

This link :

http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/aw-4/aw-4-1.htm

Gives some good pictures of the plate to be removed, as well as the flex
plate and a good shot of the torque converter bolts.

Hope this helps someone else as well as me.

Alan

 

I thought I would share the results of some research I've been doing.

this link:

http://www.alldata.com/techtips/2002/20020308c.html

Is I think pretty much on the money in terms of diagnosis/symptoms.

This link :

http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/aw-4/aw-4-1.htm

Gives some good pictures of the plate to be removed, as well as the flex
plate and a good shot of the torque converter bolts.

Hope this helps someone else as well as me.

Alan

 

I thought I would share the results of some research I've been doing.

this link:

http://www.alldata.com/techtips/2002/20020308c.html

Is I think pretty much on the money in terms of diagnosis/symptoms.

This link :

http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/aw-4/aw-4-1.htm

Gives some good pictures of the plate to be removed, as well as the flex
plate and a good shot of the torque converter bolts.

Hope this helps someone else as well as me.

Alan