Cherokee with horrible clanging noises.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Cherokee with horrible clanging noises.
True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval shape,
then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some additional
use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
Earle
"Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
knock
> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque converter
> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
checked/tightened
> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
The
> tranny stays in the jeep.
>
> JoBo
>
>
> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
fine.
> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
banging
> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as soon
as
> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
enough
> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
fluid
> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
away.
> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on the
> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
banging
> > away on the over run.
> >
> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where some
> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
book
> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
> >
> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
> >
> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
> >
> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
> >
> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
> >
> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
> > white paint
> >
> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
> >
> > and so on etc.
> >
> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able to
> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission? The
> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I didnt
> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the moment.)
> >
> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
> >
> > TIA
> >
>
>
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then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some additional
use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
Earle
"Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
knock
> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque converter
> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
checked/tightened
> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
The
> tranny stays in the jeep.
>
> JoBo
>
>
> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
fine.
> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
banging
> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as soon
as
> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
enough
> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
fluid
> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
away.
> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on the
> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
banging
> > away on the over run.
> >
> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where some
> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
book
> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
> >
> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
> >
> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
> >
> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
> >
> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
> >
> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
> > white paint
> >
> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
> >
> > and so on etc.
> >
> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able to
> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission? The
> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I didnt
> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the moment.)
> >
> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
> >
> > TIA
> >
>
>
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Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Cherokee with horrible clanging noises.
True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval shape,
then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some additional
use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
Earle
"Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
knock
> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque converter
> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
checked/tightened
> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
The
> tranny stays in the jeep.
>
> JoBo
>
>
> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
fine.
> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
banging
> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as soon
as
> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
enough
> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
fluid
> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
away.
> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on the
> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
banging
> > away on the over run.
> >
> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where some
> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
book
> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
> >
> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
> >
> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
> >
> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
> >
> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
> >
> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
> > white paint
> >
> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
> >
> > and so on etc.
> >
> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able to
> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission? The
> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I didnt
> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the moment.)
> >
> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
> >
> > TIA
> >
>
>
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then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some additional
use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
Earle
"Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
knock
> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque converter
> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
checked/tightened
> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
The
> tranny stays in the jeep.
>
> JoBo
>
>
> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
fine.
> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
banging
> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as soon
as
> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
enough
> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
fluid
> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
away.
> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on the
> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
banging
> > away on the over run.
> >
> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where some
> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
book
> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
> >
> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
> >
> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
> >
> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
> >
> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
> >
> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
> > white paint
> >
> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
> >
> > and so on etc.
> >
> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able to
> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission? The
> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I didnt
> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the moment.)
> >
> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
> >
> > TIA
> >
>
>
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Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Cherokee with horrible clanging noises.
True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval shape,
then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some additional
use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
Earle
"Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
knock
> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque converter
> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
checked/tightened
> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
The
> tranny stays in the jeep.
>
> JoBo
>
>
> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
fine.
> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
banging
> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as soon
as
> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
enough
> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
fluid
> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
away.
> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on the
> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
banging
> > away on the over run.
> >
> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where some
> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
book
> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
> >
> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
> >
> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
> >
> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
> >
> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
> >
> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
> > white paint
> >
> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
> >
> > and so on etc.
> >
> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able to
> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission? The
> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I didnt
> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the moment.)
> >
> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
> >
> > TIA
> >
>
>
*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some additional
use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
Earle
"Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
knock
> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque converter
> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
checked/tightened
> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
The
> tranny stays in the jeep.
>
> JoBo
>
>
> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
fine.
> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
banging
> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as soon
as
> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
enough
> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
fluid
> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
away.
> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on the
> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
banging
> > away on the over run.
> >
> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where some
> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
book
> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
> >
> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
> >
> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
> >
> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
> >
> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
> >
> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
> > white paint
> >
> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
> >
> > and so on etc.
> >
> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able to
> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission? The
> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I didnt
> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the moment.)
> >
> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
> >
> > TIA
> >
>
>
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*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Cherokee with horrible clanging noises.
This is looking/sounding promising. it is just the sort of sound I'm
getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a wrench
in there and tighten things up?
Alan
"Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
> True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval shape,
> then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
> additional
> use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
> most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
>
> Earle
>
> "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
>> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
> knock
>> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
>> converter
>> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
> checked/tightened
>> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
> The
>> tranny stays in the jeep.
>>
>> JoBo
>>
>>
>> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
>> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
>> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
>> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
> fine.
>> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
> banging
>> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as soon
> as
>> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
>> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
> enough
>> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
> fluid
>> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
> away.
>> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
>> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
>> > the
>> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
> banging
>> > away on the over run.
>> >
>> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
>> > some
>> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
> book
>> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
>> >
>> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
>> >
>> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
>> >
>> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
>> >
>> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
>> >
>> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
>> > white paint
>> >
>> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
>> >
>> > and so on etc.
>> >
>> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able to
>> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
>> > The
>> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
>> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I didnt
>> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
>> > moment.)
>> >
>> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
>> >
>> > TIA
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a wrench
in there and tighten things up?
Alan
"Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
> True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval shape,
> then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
> additional
> use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
> most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
>
> Earle
>
> "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
>> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
> knock
>> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
>> converter
>> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
> checked/tightened
>> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
> The
>> tranny stays in the jeep.
>>
>> JoBo
>>
>>
>> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
>> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
>> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
>> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
> fine.
>> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
> banging
>> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as soon
> as
>> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
>> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
> enough
>> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
> fluid
>> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
> away.
>> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
>> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
>> > the
>> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
> banging
>> > away on the over run.
>> >
>> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
>> > some
>> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
> book
>> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
>> >
>> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
>> >
>> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
>> >
>> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
>> >
>> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
>> >
>> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
>> > white paint
>> >
>> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
>> >
>> > and so on etc.
>> >
>> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able to
>> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
>> > The
>> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
>> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I didnt
>> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
>> > moment.)
>> >
>> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
>> >
>> > TIA
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Cherokee with horrible clanging noises.
This is looking/sounding promising. it is just the sort of sound I'm
getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a wrench
in there and tighten things up?
Alan
"Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
> True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval shape,
> then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
> additional
> use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
> most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
>
> Earle
>
> "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
>> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
> knock
>> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
>> converter
>> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
> checked/tightened
>> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
> The
>> tranny stays in the jeep.
>>
>> JoBo
>>
>>
>> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
>> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
>> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
>> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
> fine.
>> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
> banging
>> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as soon
> as
>> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
>> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
> enough
>> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
> fluid
>> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
> away.
>> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
>> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
>> > the
>> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
> banging
>> > away on the over run.
>> >
>> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
>> > some
>> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
> book
>> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
>> >
>> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
>> >
>> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
>> >
>> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
>> >
>> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
>> >
>> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
>> > white paint
>> >
>> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
>> >
>> > and so on etc.
>> >
>> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able to
>> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
>> > The
>> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
>> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I didnt
>> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
>> > moment.)
>> >
>> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
>> >
>> > TIA
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a wrench
in there and tighten things up?
Alan
"Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
> True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval shape,
> then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
> additional
> use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
> most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
>
> Earle
>
> "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
>> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
> knock
>> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
>> converter
>> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
> checked/tightened
>> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
> The
>> tranny stays in the jeep.
>>
>> JoBo
>>
>>
>> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
>> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
>> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
>> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
> fine.
>> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
> banging
>> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as soon
> as
>> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
>> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
> enough
>> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
> fluid
>> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
> away.
>> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
>> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
>> > the
>> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
> banging
>> > away on the over run.
>> >
>> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
>> > some
>> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
> book
>> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
>> >
>> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
>> >
>> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
>> >
>> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
>> >
>> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
>> >
>> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
>> > white paint
>> >
>> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
>> >
>> > and so on etc.
>> >
>> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able to
>> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
>> > The
>> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
>> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I didnt
>> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
>> > moment.)
>> >
>> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
>> >
>> > TIA
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Cherokee with horrible clanging noises.
This is looking/sounding promising. it is just the sort of sound I'm
getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a wrench
in there and tighten things up?
Alan
"Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
> True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval shape,
> then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
> additional
> use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
> most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
>
> Earle
>
> "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
>> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
> knock
>> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
>> converter
>> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
> checked/tightened
>> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
> The
>> tranny stays in the jeep.
>>
>> JoBo
>>
>>
>> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
>> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
>> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
>> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
> fine.
>> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
> banging
>> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as soon
> as
>> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
>> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
> enough
>> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
> fluid
>> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
> away.
>> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
>> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
>> > the
>> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
> banging
>> > away on the over run.
>> >
>> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
>> > some
>> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
> book
>> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
>> >
>> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
>> >
>> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
>> >
>> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
>> >
>> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
>> >
>> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
>> > white paint
>> >
>> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
>> >
>> > and so on etc.
>> >
>> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able to
>> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
>> > The
>> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
>> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I didnt
>> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
>> > moment.)
>> >
>> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
>> >
>> > TIA
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a wrench
in there and tighten things up?
Alan
"Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
> True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval shape,
> then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
> additional
> use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
> most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
>
> Earle
>
> "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
>> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
> knock
>> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
>> converter
>> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
> checked/tightened
>> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
> The
>> tranny stays in the jeep.
>>
>> JoBo
>>
>>
>> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
>> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
>> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
>> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
> fine.
>> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
> banging
>> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as soon
> as
>> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
>> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
> enough
>> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
> fluid
>> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
> away.
>> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
>> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
>> > the
>> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
> banging
>> > away on the over run.
>> >
>> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
>> > some
>> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
> book
>> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
>> >
>> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
>> >
>> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
>> >
>> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
>> >
>> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
>> >
>> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
>> > white paint
>> >
>> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
>> >
>> > and so on etc.
>> >
>> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able to
>> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
>> > The
>> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
>> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I didnt
>> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
>> > moment.)
>> >
>> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
>> >
>> > TIA
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Cherokee with horrible clanging noises.
Bolt Reference
Pix: 55
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...2309395&idx=55
"Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
news:hiCXf.49826$zr.11543@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
> This is looking/sounding promising. it is just the sort of sound I'm
> getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
> occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
> removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
> towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a
> wrench in there and tighten things up?
>
> Alan
>
>
> "Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
>> True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval
>> shape,
>> then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
>> additional
>> use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
>> most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
>> news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
>>> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
>> knock
>>> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
>>> converter
>>> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
>> checked/tightened
>>> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
>> The
>>> tranny stays in the jeep.
>>>
>>> JoBo
>>>
>>>
>>> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>>> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
>>> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
>>> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
>>> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
>> fine.
>>> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
>> banging
>>> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as
>>> > soon
>> as
>>> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
>>> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
>> enough
>>> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
>> fluid
>>> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
>> away.
>>> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
>>> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
>>> > the
>>> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
>> banging
>>> > away on the over run.
>>> >
>>> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
>>> > some
>>> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
>> book
>>> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
>>> >
>>> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
>>> >
>>> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
>>> >
>>> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
>>> >
>>> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
>>> >
>>> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
>>> > white paint
>>> >
>>> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
>>> >
>>> > and so on etc.
>>> >
>>> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able
>>> > to
>>> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
>>> > The
>>> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
>>> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I
>>> > didnt
>>> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
>>> > moment.)
>>> >
>>> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
>>> >
>>> > TIA
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
>> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
>> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
>
>
Pix: 55
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...2309395&idx=55
"Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
news:hiCXf.49826$zr.11543@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
> This is looking/sounding promising. it is just the sort of sound I'm
> getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
> occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
> removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
> towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a
> wrench in there and tighten things up?
>
> Alan
>
>
> "Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
>> True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval
>> shape,
>> then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
>> additional
>> use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
>> most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
>> news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
>>> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
>> knock
>>> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
>>> converter
>>> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
>> checked/tightened
>>> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
>> The
>>> tranny stays in the jeep.
>>>
>>> JoBo
>>>
>>>
>>> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>>> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
>>> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
>>> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
>>> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
>> fine.
>>> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
>> banging
>>> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as
>>> > soon
>> as
>>> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
>>> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
>> enough
>>> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
>> fluid
>>> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
>> away.
>>> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
>>> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
>>> > the
>>> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
>> banging
>>> > away on the over run.
>>> >
>>> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
>>> > some
>>> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
>> book
>>> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
>>> >
>>> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
>>> >
>>> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
>>> >
>>> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
>>> >
>>> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
>>> >
>>> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
>>> > white paint
>>> >
>>> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
>>> >
>>> > and so on etc.
>>> >
>>> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able
>>> > to
>>> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
>>> > The
>>> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
>>> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I
>>> > didnt
>>> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
>>> > moment.)
>>> >
>>> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
>>> >
>>> > TIA
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
>> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
>> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Cherokee with horrible clanging noises.
Bolt Reference
Pix: 55
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...2309395&idx=55
"Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
news:hiCXf.49826$zr.11543@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
> This is looking/sounding promising. it is just the sort of sound I'm
> getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
> occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
> removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
> towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a
> wrench in there and tighten things up?
>
> Alan
>
>
> "Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
>> True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval
>> shape,
>> then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
>> additional
>> use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
>> most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
>> news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
>>> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
>> knock
>>> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
>>> converter
>>> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
>> checked/tightened
>>> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
>> The
>>> tranny stays in the jeep.
>>>
>>> JoBo
>>>
>>>
>>> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>>> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
>>> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
>>> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
>>> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
>> fine.
>>> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
>> banging
>>> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as
>>> > soon
>> as
>>> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
>>> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
>> enough
>>> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
>> fluid
>>> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
>> away.
>>> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
>>> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
>>> > the
>>> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
>> banging
>>> > away on the over run.
>>> >
>>> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
>>> > some
>>> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
>> book
>>> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
>>> >
>>> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
>>> >
>>> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
>>> >
>>> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
>>> >
>>> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
>>> >
>>> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
>>> > white paint
>>> >
>>> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
>>> >
>>> > and so on etc.
>>> >
>>> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able
>>> > to
>>> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
>>> > The
>>> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
>>> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I
>>> > didnt
>>> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
>>> > moment.)
>>> >
>>> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
>>> >
>>> > TIA
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
>> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
>> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
>
>
Pix: 55
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...2309395&idx=55
"Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
news:hiCXf.49826$zr.11543@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
> This is looking/sounding promising. it is just the sort of sound I'm
> getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
> occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
> removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
> towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a
> wrench in there and tighten things up?
>
> Alan
>
>
> "Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
>> True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval
>> shape,
>> then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
>> additional
>> use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
>> most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
>> news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
>>> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
>> knock
>>> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
>>> converter
>>> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
>> checked/tightened
>>> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
>> The
>>> tranny stays in the jeep.
>>>
>>> JoBo
>>>
>>>
>>> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>>> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
>>> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
>>> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
>>> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
>> fine.
>>> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
>> banging
>>> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as
>>> > soon
>> as
>>> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
>>> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
>> enough
>>> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
>> fluid
>>> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
>> away.
>>> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
>>> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
>>> > the
>>> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
>> banging
>>> > away on the over run.
>>> >
>>> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
>>> > some
>>> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
>> book
>>> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
>>> >
>>> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
>>> >
>>> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
>>> >
>>> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
>>> >
>>> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
>>> >
>>> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
>>> > white paint
>>> >
>>> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
>>> >
>>> > and so on etc.
>>> >
>>> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able
>>> > to
>>> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
>>> > The
>>> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
>>> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I
>>> > didnt
>>> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
>>> > moment.)
>>> >
>>> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
>>> >
>>> > TIA
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
>> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
>> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Cherokee with horrible clanging noises.
Bolt Reference
Pix: 55
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...2309395&idx=55
"Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
news:hiCXf.49826$zr.11543@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
> This is looking/sounding promising. it is just the sort of sound I'm
> getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
> occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
> removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
> towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a
> wrench in there and tighten things up?
>
> Alan
>
>
> "Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
>> True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval
>> shape,
>> then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
>> additional
>> use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
>> most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
>> news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
>>> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
>> knock
>>> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
>>> converter
>>> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
>> checked/tightened
>>> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
>> The
>>> tranny stays in the jeep.
>>>
>>> JoBo
>>>
>>>
>>> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>>> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
>>> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
>>> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
>>> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
>> fine.
>>> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
>> banging
>>> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as
>>> > soon
>> as
>>> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
>>> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
>> enough
>>> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
>> fluid
>>> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
>> away.
>>> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
>>> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
>>> > the
>>> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
>> banging
>>> > away on the over run.
>>> >
>>> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
>>> > some
>>> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
>> book
>>> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
>>> >
>>> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
>>> >
>>> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
>>> >
>>> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
>>> >
>>> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
>>> >
>>> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
>>> > white paint
>>> >
>>> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
>>> >
>>> > and so on etc.
>>> >
>>> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able
>>> > to
>>> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
>>> > The
>>> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
>>> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I
>>> > didnt
>>> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
>>> > moment.)
>>> >
>>> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
>>> >
>>> > TIA
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
>> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
>> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
>
>
Pix: 55
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...2309395&idx=55
"Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
news:hiCXf.49826$zr.11543@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
> This is looking/sounding promising. it is just the sort of sound I'm
> getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
> occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
> removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
> towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a
> wrench in there and tighten things up?
>
> Alan
>
>
> "Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
>> True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval
>> shape,
>> then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
>> additional
>> use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
>> most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
>> news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
>>> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
>> knock
>>> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
>>> converter
>>> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
>> checked/tightened
>>> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil pan.
>> The
>>> tranny stays in the jeep.
>>>
>>> JoBo
>>>
>>>
>>> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>>> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly awful
>>> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
>>> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
>>> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
>> fine.
>>> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
>> banging
>>> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as
>>> > soon
>> as
>>> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
>>> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
>> enough
>>> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
>> fluid
>>> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
>> away.
>>> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
>>> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
>>> > the
>>> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
>> banging
>>> > away on the over run.
>>> >
>>> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
>>> > some
>>> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
>> book
>>> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
>>> >
>>> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
>>> >
>>> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
>>> >
>>> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
>>> >
>>> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
>>> >
>>> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate with
>>> > white paint
>>> >
>>> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
>>> >
>>> > and so on etc.
>>> >
>>> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able
>>> > to
>>> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
>>> > The
>>> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
>>> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I
>>> > didnt
>>> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
>>> > moment.)
>>> >
>>> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
>>> >
>>> > TIA
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
>> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
>> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Cherokee with horrible clanging noises.
That is how they are put together and taken apart. You may have to purchase
an offset box end wrench of the proper size, but there should be just enough
room to tighten those bolts.
Earle
"Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
news:hiCXf.49826$zr.11543@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
> This is looking/sounding promising. it is just the sort of sound I'm
> getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
> occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
> removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
> towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a
wrench
> in there and tighten things up?
>
> Alan
>
>
> "Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
> > True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval
shape,
> > then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
> > additional
> > use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
> > most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
> >> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
> > knock
> >> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
> >> converter
> >> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
> > checked/tightened
> >> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil
pan.
> > The
> >> tranny stays in the jeep.
> >>
> >> JoBo
> >>
> >>
> >> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
> >> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly
awful
> >> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
> >> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
> >> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
> > fine.
> >> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
> > banging
> >> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as
soon
> > as
> >> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
> >> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
> > enough
> >> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
> > fluid
> >> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
> > away.
> >> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
> >> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
> >> > the
> >> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
> > banging
> >> > away on the over run.
> >> >
> >> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
> >> > some
> >> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
> > book
> >> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
> >> >
> >> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
> >> >
> >> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
> >> >
> >> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
> >> >
> >> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
> >> >
> >> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate
with
> >> > white paint
> >> >
> >> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
> >> >
> >> > and so on etc.
> >> >
> >> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able
to
> >> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
> >> > The
> >> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
> >> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I
didnt
> >> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
> >> > moment.)
> >> >
> >> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
> >> >
> >> > TIA
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> > *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> > http://www.SecureIX.com ***
>
>
*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
an offset box end wrench of the proper size, but there should be just enough
room to tighten those bolts.
Earle
"Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
news:hiCXf.49826$zr.11543@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
> This is looking/sounding promising. it is just the sort of sound I'm
> getting. I checked the mounts as DougW suggested-thanks for that, never
> occurred to me-but they were ok. if this plate is what I can imagine then
> removing the plate would mean when you look into the hole you are looking
> towards the rear of the car. Do you really have enough room to get a
wrench
> in there and tighten things up?
>
> Alan
>
>
> "Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:442eb8e8$0$16365$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.c om...
> > True but if the bolts have worn the holes in the flex plate to oval
shape,
> > then the flex plate will have to be changed. You might get some
> > additional
> > use out of it by installing new bolts. If you decide to do so, they are
> > most likely "special" bolts and will have to be purchased at the dealer.
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "Jo Bo" <jromas SPAM@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:MVuXf.74398$UZ5.22586@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com. ..
> >> The bolts on the flex plate are known to come loose. That causes a rod
> > knock
> >> type noise. The flex plate is bolted to the crank and the torque
> >> converter
> >> is bolted to that. the latter bolts come loose and can be
> > checked/tightened
> >> by removing a plate in front of the bellhousing just behind the oil
pan.
> > The
> >> tranny stays in the jeep.
> >>
> >> JoBo
> >>
> >>
> >> "Alan" <bogus.mail@bogusmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:Jm6Xf.419$8o.232@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
> >> > My 95 cherokee 4.0 HO 4 speed auto has started making some truly
awful
> >> > banging noises. sounds like a mechanic is trapped underneath and is
> >> > randomly hitting things with his hammer to attract attention!. (I
> >> > checked-no there really isnt anyone there.) motor runs fine. starts
> > fine.
> >> > only when idling under no load i.e. neutral/park when hot does the
> > banging
> >> > clattering start. when starting from cold is ok until warms up. as
soon
> > as
> >> > I go into drive or reverse it shuts up. I'm thinking that either the
> >> > flywheel or the torque converter has come loose. when cold there is
> > enough
> >> > drag on the transmission to hold it against the bolts, but when the
> > fluid
> >> > warms it thins and gives less resistance and so things start bangin
> > away.
> >> > I'm thinking that when drive is engaged it is enough to hold things
> >> > against the bolts. Note: all this is with the vehicle stationary. on
> >> > the
> >> > move it is absolutely fine until I back off the gas and it starts
> > banging
> >> > away on the over run.
> >> >
> >> > ok, enough of the symptoms, heres what I'm planning to do and where
> >> > some
> >> > advice is needed. I was going to pull the tranny, so I looked in the
> > book
> >> > to see whats done and heres whats made me think.
> >> >
> >> > 1-disconnect negative cable of battery.
> >> >
> >> > 2-raise the vehicle and support it securely
> >> >
> >> > 3-drain the transmission fluid then re-install the pan
> >> >
> >> > 4-remove the torque converter cover
> >> >
> >> > 5-mark the relationship of the torque converter to the driveplate
with
> >> > white paint
> >> >
> >> > 6-remove the torque converter to driveplate bolts.
> >> >
> >> > and so on etc.
> >> >
> >> > If I am reading this correctly, does this mean that I should be able
to
> >> > gain access to the bolts without actually removing the transmission?
> >> > The
> >> > book has no pictures or diagrams to help on this area. I've had an
> >> > admittedly brief look underneath and couldnt figure it out (but I
didnt
> >> > spend any real time under as the weather is not pleasant at the
> >> > moment.)
> >> >
> >> > Anyone any ideas or opinions or links to any relevant pictures?
> >> >
> >> > TIA
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> > *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> > http://www.SecureIX.com ***
>
>
*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
