If you connect the two wires together, which I have done before to test
it, they are both female but the 3/4 circle on each side will fit one on
one with the other or you need a long spade connector loose to plug the
the two together (I have snipped off or unsoldered dead headlight
spades that I use for that purpose) should give you battery and
alternator voltage at the pump. This shouldn't hurt anything. The volt
drop is for noise reduction only.

I am not sure without my Jeep out there to check what the drop is after
the resistor, but if I remember right you should have about 10 with the
key in run and a spike up to battery voltage when the key is first
clicked on start, then a drop with the starter cranking... I think it is
a 1.3 ohm resistor or a stock 'chrysler' resistor.

Mike

Davey wrote:
>
> Mike, please, one more thing. If I drop down to fuel pump connections,
> how many volts should I read? More or less than 12 Volts? After your
> reply, everything is suspicious now. I remember one time I washed engine
> in my Cherokee and after a while, problems started. Possible some
> connection somewhere is rusty.
>
> >
> > I live in the rust belt so usually look for bad connections first. They
> > are cheap and easy fixes. Our 88's fuel pump is run via a ceramic
> > ballast resistor that is out on the fender near the rad. That is open
> > to the elements and gets bad connections now and then.
> >
> > The ground for the fuel pump is the body and the mesh strap from the
> > rear of the head to the firewall goes rotten easy not letting a
> > consistent circuit happen, but that usually causes stalls at speed like
> > a CPS going bad.
> >
> > That TPS is known to give an acceleration hiccup though. It is cheap
> > and easy to clean it's connections just for the heck of it. Mine need a
> > clean it every two years or so.
> >
> > I have seen fuel pump impellers come loose on Dodge and Chrysler
> > vehicles though. The suckers hum and draw power right, but just a
> > trickle comes out.
> >
> > If you think you actually got the return line blocked, then that pump
> > could be suspect. Low power to the pump can cause it too though.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

 

If you connect the two wires together, which I have done before to test
it, they are both female but the 3/4 circle on each side will fit one on
one with the other or you need a long spade connector loose to plug the
the two together (I have snipped off or unsoldered dead headlight
spades that I use for that purpose) should give you battery and
alternator voltage at the pump. This shouldn't hurt anything. The volt
drop is for noise reduction only.

I am not sure without my Jeep out there to check what the drop is after
the resistor, but if I remember right you should have about 10 with the
key in run and a spike up to battery voltage when the key is first
clicked on start, then a drop with the starter cranking... I think it is
a 1.3 ohm resistor or a stock 'chrysler' resistor.

Mike

Davey wrote:
>
> Mike, please, one more thing. If I drop down to fuel pump connections,
> how many volts should I read? More or less than 12 Volts? After your
> reply, everything is suspicious now. I remember one time I washed engine
> in my Cherokee and after a while, problems started. Possible some
> connection somewhere is rusty.
>
> >
> > I live in the rust belt so usually look for bad connections first. They
> > are cheap and easy fixes. Our 88's fuel pump is run via a ceramic
> > ballast resistor that is out on the fender near the rad. That is open
> > to the elements and gets bad connections now and then.
> >
> > The ground for the fuel pump is the body and the mesh strap from the
> > rear of the head to the firewall goes rotten easy not letting a
> > consistent circuit happen, but that usually causes stalls at speed like
> > a CPS going bad.
> >
> > That TPS is known to give an acceleration hiccup though. It is cheap
> > and easy to clean it's connections just for the heck of it. Mine need a
> > clean it every two years or so.
> >
> > I have seen fuel pump impellers come loose on Dodge and Chrysler
> > vehicles though. The suckers hum and draw power right, but just a
> > trickle comes out.
> >
> > If you think you actually got the return line blocked, then that pump
> > could be suspect. Low power to the pump can cause it too though.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

 

If you connect the two wires together, which I have done before to test
it, they are both female but the 3/4 circle on each side will fit one on
one with the other or you need a long spade connector loose to plug the
the two together (I have snipped off or unsoldered dead headlight
spades that I use for that purpose) should give you battery and
alternator voltage at the pump. This shouldn't hurt anything. The volt
drop is for noise reduction only.

I am not sure without my Jeep out there to check what the drop is after
the resistor, but if I remember right you should have about 10 with the
key in run and a spike up to battery voltage when the key is first
clicked on start, then a drop with the starter cranking... I think it is
a 1.3 ohm resistor or a stock 'chrysler' resistor.

Mike

Davey wrote:
>
> Mike, please, one more thing. If I drop down to fuel pump connections,
> how many volts should I read? More or less than 12 Volts? After your
> reply, everything is suspicious now. I remember one time I washed engine
> in my Cherokee and after a while, problems started. Possible some
> connection somewhere is rusty.
>
> >
> > I live in the rust belt so usually look for bad connections first. They
> > are cheap and easy fixes. Our 88's fuel pump is run via a ceramic
> > ballast resistor that is out on the fender near the rad. That is open
> > to the elements and gets bad connections now and then.
> >
> > The ground for the fuel pump is the body and the mesh strap from the
> > rear of the head to the firewall goes rotten easy not letting a
> > consistent circuit happen, but that usually causes stalls at speed like
> > a CPS going bad.
> >
> > That TPS is known to give an acceleration hiccup though. It is cheap
> > and easy to clean it's connections just for the heck of it. Mine need a
> > clean it every two years or so.
> >
> > I have seen fuel pump impellers come loose on Dodge and Chrysler
> > vehicles though. The suckers hum and draw power right, but just a
> > trickle comes out.
> >
> > If you think you actually got the return line blocked, then that pump
> > could be suspect. Low power to the pump can cause it too though.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)