Davey

OK, seems like another cost is gonna be. How much could be a pump, maybe
150 $?
Spdloader wrote:
> Weak fuel pump.
>
> Spdloader
>
>
>
> "Davey" <davey@hi.t-com.hr> wrote in message
> news:e2fngr$9k5$1@ss408.t-com.hr...
>

Spdloader

The last one I bought was $139.00

Spdloader


"Davey" <davey@hi.t-com.hr> wrote in message
news:e2grik$m8e$1@ss408.t-com.hr...
> OK, seems like another cost is gonna be. How much could be a pump, maybe
> 150 $?
> Spdloader wrote:
>> Weak fuel pump.
>>
>> Spdloader
>>
>>
>>
>> "Davey" <davey@hi.t-com.hr> wrote in message
>> news:e2fngr$9k5$1@ss408.t-com.hr...
>>

Spdloader

The last one I bought was $139.00

Spdloader


"Davey" <davey@hi.t-com.hr> wrote in message
news:e2grik$m8e$1@ss408.t-com.hr...
> OK, seems like another cost is gonna be. How much could be a pump, maybe
> 150 $?
> Spdloader wrote:
>> Weak fuel pump.
>>
>> Spdloader
>>
>>
>>
>> "Davey" <davey@hi.t-com.hr> wrote in message
>> news:e2fngr$9k5$1@ss408.t-com.hr...
>>

Spdloader

The last one I bought was $139.00

Spdloader


"Davey" <davey@hi.t-com.hr> wrote in message
news:e2grik$m8e$1@ss408.t-com.hr...
> OK, seems like another cost is gonna be. How much could be a pump, maybe
> 150 $?
> Spdloader wrote:
>> Weak fuel pump.
>>
>> Spdloader
>>
>>
>>
>> "Davey" <davey@hi.t-com.hr> wrote in message
>> news:e2fngr$9k5$1@ss408.t-com.hr...
>>

Davey

Mike, this is interesting. There is something on left inner fender just
near the water tank for windshield wipers. That Ceramic thing is broken
on my car and I fixed it just with some tape to keep it "complete". It
looks like some of those things to prevent sounds on radio coming from
alternator, can it be cramic ballast resistor, and is it possible that
it goes to fuel pump?
I'm going to check all of this. Must be in Haynes something about it.
Will tell you what happened.
Thanks.
Mike Romain wrote:
> Davey wrote:
>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>I would be looking at the connection on the throttle position sensor
>>>first. I use a spray contact cleaner on the connections on mine. WD40
>>>will work as a connection cleaner too.
>>>
>>>They are a rheostat and can get a dead spot, but their electrical
>>>connection can cause hiccups like you describe too. You can use a
>>>multimeter on ohms and take the readings as you open the throttle with
>>>it unplugged and the engine off. It should change evenly. If the
>>>resistance bumps, you likely have found the trouble.
>>>
>>>I hear you can clean the guts of the TPS too, but have never needed to.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>
>> Few months ago, Jeep was at authorised workshop and guy hooked it up
>>on some kind a multitester for Chrysler/Jeep and complete test passed
>>through all of electronic items and found nothing wrong. Guy told me he
>>has no time to drive around with "tester thing" so we couldn't see what
>>happens when it comes to loaded 2250 rpm.
>>Mike, what about this fuel pressure, can it be just a damn pump?
>>Logically, when you pinch return hose, pressure should jump very fast,
>>right?
>
>
> I live in the rust belt so usually look for bad connections first. They
> are cheap and easy fixes. Our 88's fuel pump is run via a ceramic
> ballast resistor that is out on the fender near the rad. That is open
> to the elements and gets bad connections now and then.
>
> The ground for the fuel pump is the body and the mesh strap from the
> rear of the head to the firewall goes rotten easy not letting a
> consistent circuit happen, but that usually causes stalls at speed like
> a CPS going bad.
>
> That TPS is known to give an acceleration hiccup though. It is cheap
> and easy to clean it's connections just for the heck of it. Mine need a
> clean it every two years or so.
>
> I have seen fuel pump impellers come loose on Dodge and Chrysler
> vehicles though. The suckers hum and draw power right, but just a
> trickle comes out.
>
> If you think you actually got the return line blocked, then that pump
> could be suspect. Low power to the pump can cause it too though.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Davey

Mike, this is interesting. There is something on left inner fender just
near the water tank for windshield wipers. That Ceramic thing is broken
on my car and I fixed it just with some tape to keep it "complete". It
looks like some of those things to prevent sounds on radio coming from
alternator, can it be cramic ballast resistor, and is it possible that
it goes to fuel pump?
I'm going to check all of this. Must be in Haynes something about it.
Will tell you what happened.
Thanks.
Mike Romain wrote:
> Davey wrote:
>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>I would be looking at the connection on the throttle position sensor
>>>first. I use a spray contact cleaner on the connections on mine. WD40
>>>will work as a connection cleaner too.
>>>
>>>They are a rheostat and can get a dead spot, but their electrical
>>>connection can cause hiccups like you describe too. You can use a
>>>multimeter on ohms and take the readings as you open the throttle with
>>>it unplugged and the engine off. It should change evenly. If the
>>>resistance bumps, you likely have found the trouble.
>>>
>>>I hear you can clean the guts of the TPS too, but have never needed to.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>
>> Few months ago, Jeep was at authorised workshop and guy hooked it up
>>on some kind a multitester for Chrysler/Jeep and complete test passed
>>through all of electronic items and found nothing wrong. Guy told me he
>>has no time to drive around with "tester thing" so we couldn't see what
>>happens when it comes to loaded 2250 rpm.
>>Mike, what about this fuel pressure, can it be just a damn pump?
>>Logically, when you pinch return hose, pressure should jump very fast,
>>right?
>
>
> I live in the rust belt so usually look for bad connections first. They
> are cheap and easy fixes. Our 88's fuel pump is run via a ceramic
> ballast resistor that is out on the fender near the rad. That is open
> to the elements and gets bad connections now and then.
>
> The ground for the fuel pump is the body and the mesh strap from the
> rear of the head to the firewall goes rotten easy not letting a
> consistent circuit happen, but that usually causes stalls at speed like
> a CPS going bad.
>
> That TPS is known to give an acceleration hiccup though. It is cheap
> and easy to clean it's connections just for the heck of it. Mine need a
> clean it every two years or so.
>
> I have seen fuel pump impellers come loose on Dodge and Chrysler
> vehicles though. The suckers hum and draw power right, but just a
> trickle comes out.
>
> If you think you actually got the return line blocked, then that pump
> could be suspect. Low power to the pump can cause it too though.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Davey

Mike, this is interesting. There is something on left inner fender just
near the water tank for windshield wipers. That Ceramic thing is broken
on my car and I fixed it just with some tape to keep it "complete". It
looks like some of those things to prevent sounds on radio coming from
alternator, can it be cramic ballast resistor, and is it possible that
it goes to fuel pump?
I'm going to check all of this. Must be in Haynes something about it.
Will tell you what happened.
Thanks.
Mike Romain wrote:
> Davey wrote:
>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>I would be looking at the connection on the throttle position sensor
>>>first. I use a spray contact cleaner on the connections on mine. WD40
>>>will work as a connection cleaner too.
>>>
>>>They are a rheostat and can get a dead spot, but their electrical
>>>connection can cause hiccups like you describe too. You can use a
>>>multimeter on ohms and take the readings as you open the throttle with
>>>it unplugged and the engine off. It should change evenly. If the
>>>resistance bumps, you likely have found the trouble.
>>>
>>>I hear you can clean the guts of the TPS too, but have never needed to.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>
>> Few months ago, Jeep was at authorised workshop and guy hooked it up
>>on some kind a multitester for Chrysler/Jeep and complete test passed
>>through all of electronic items and found nothing wrong. Guy told me he
>>has no time to drive around with "tester thing" so we couldn't see what
>>happens when it comes to loaded 2250 rpm.
>>Mike, what about this fuel pressure, can it be just a damn pump?
>>Logically, when you pinch return hose, pressure should jump very fast,
>>right?
>
>
> I live in the rust belt so usually look for bad connections first. They
> are cheap and easy fixes. Our 88's fuel pump is run via a ceramic
> ballast resistor that is out on the fender near the rad. That is open
> to the elements and gets bad connections now and then.
>
> The ground for the fuel pump is the body and the mesh strap from the
> rear of the head to the firewall goes rotten easy not letting a
> consistent circuit happen, but that usually causes stalls at speed like
> a CPS going bad.
>
> That TPS is known to give an acceleration hiccup though. It is cheap
> and easy to clean it's connections just for the heck of it. Mine need a
> clean it every two years or so.
>
> I have seen fuel pump impellers come loose on Dodge and Chrysler
> vehicles though. The suckers hum and draw power right, but just a
> trickle comes out.
>
> If you think you actually got the return line blocked, then that pump
> could be suspect. Low power to the pump can cause it too though.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Davey

Mike, please, one more thing. If I drop down to fuel pump connections,
how many volts should I read? More or less than 12 Volts? After your
reply, everything is suspicious now. I remember one time I washed engine
in my Cherokee and after a while, problems started. Possible some
connection somewhere is rusty.

>
> I live in the rust belt so usually look for bad connections first. They
> are cheap and easy fixes. Our 88's fuel pump is run via a ceramic
> ballast resistor that is out on the fender near the rad. That is open
> to the elements and gets bad connections now and then.
>
> The ground for the fuel pump is the body and the mesh strap from the
> rear of the head to the firewall goes rotten easy not letting a
> consistent circuit happen, but that usually causes stalls at speed like
> a CPS going bad.
>
> That TPS is known to give an acceleration hiccup though. It is cheap
> and easy to clean it's connections just for the heck of it. Mine need a
> clean it every two years or so.
>
> I have seen fuel pump impellers come loose on Dodge and Chrysler
> vehicles though. The suckers hum and draw power right, but just a
> trickle comes out.
>
> If you think you actually got the return line blocked, then that pump
> could be suspect. Low power to the pump can cause it too though.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Davey

Mike, please, one more thing. If I drop down to fuel pump connections,
how many volts should I read? More or less than 12 Volts? After your
reply, everything is suspicious now. I remember one time I washed engine
in my Cherokee and after a while, problems started. Possible some
connection somewhere is rusty.

>
> I live in the rust belt so usually look for bad connections first. They
> are cheap and easy fixes. Our 88's fuel pump is run via a ceramic
> ballast resistor that is out on the fender near the rad. That is open
> to the elements and gets bad connections now and then.
>
> The ground for the fuel pump is the body and the mesh strap from the
> rear of the head to the firewall goes rotten easy not letting a
> consistent circuit happen, but that usually causes stalls at speed like
> a CPS going bad.
>
> That TPS is known to give an acceleration hiccup though. It is cheap
> and easy to clean it's connections just for the heck of it. Mine need a
> clean it every two years or so.
>
> I have seen fuel pump impellers come loose on Dodge and Chrysler
> vehicles though. The suckers hum and draw power right, but just a
> trickle comes out.
>
> If you think you actually got the return line blocked, then that pump
> could be suspect. Low power to the pump can cause it too though.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Davey

Mike, please, one more thing. If I drop down to fuel pump connections,
how many volts should I read? More or less than 12 Volts? After your
reply, everything is suspicious now. I remember one time I washed engine
in my Cherokee and after a while, problems started. Possible some
connection somewhere is rusty.

>
> I live in the rust belt so usually look for bad connections first. They
> are cheap and easy fixes. Our 88's fuel pump is run via a ceramic
> ballast resistor that is out on the fender near the rad. That is open
> to the elements and gets bad connections now and then.
>
> The ground for the fuel pump is the body and the mesh strap from the
> rear of the head to the firewall goes rotten easy not letting a
> consistent circuit happen, but that usually causes stalls at speed like
> a CPS going bad.
>
> That TPS is known to give an acceleration hiccup though. It is cheap
> and easy to clean it's connections just for the heck of it. Mine need a
> clean it every two years or so.
>
> I have seen fuel pump impellers come loose on Dodge and Chrysler
> vehicles though. The suckers hum and draw power right, but just a
> trickle comes out.
>
> If you think you actually got the return line blocked, then that pump
> could be suspect. Low power to the pump can cause it too though.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)