The "new" 318 came out in 1967


"Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1120361330.ec78b60b4d77110a8a0a4076fb72d709@t eranews...
> Bill,
>
> Actually, the proliferation of hoses gave it away more than the valve
> covers. I believe that the transition to the new small block design was
> 1966, give or take a year.
>
> Earle
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:42C6E96F.153C8068@***.net...
>> Hi Earle,
>> I believe the engine you're thinking of is probably the 318 using
>> the 383 block with the irregular shaped valve covers, but I know of the
>> 318 that topped out a 360" unfortunately I can only find an engine
>> picture going back to this '67 Plymouth:
>>
> http://www.hemmings.com/index.cfm/fu...icle_id/218886
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Earle Horton wrote:
>> >
>> > That is not a 1957 318". I don't even have to look in the book for
>> > that
>> > one.
>> >
>> > Earle
>
>

 

The "new" 318 came out in 1967


"Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1120361330.ec78b60b4d77110a8a0a4076fb72d709@t eranews...
> Bill,
>
> Actually, the proliferation of hoses gave it away more than the valve
> covers. I believe that the transition to the new small block design was
> 1966, give or take a year.
>
> Earle
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:42C6E96F.153C8068@***.net...
>> Hi Earle,
>> I believe the engine you're thinking of is probably the 318 using
>> the 383 block with the irregular shaped valve covers, but I know of the
>> 318 that topped out a 360" unfortunately I can only find an engine
>> picture going back to this '67 Plymouth:
>>
> http://www.hemmings.com/index.cfm/fu...icle_id/218886
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Earle Horton wrote:
>> >
>> > That is not a 1957 318". I don't even have to look in the book for
>> > that
>> > one.
>> >
>> > Earle
>
>

 

The "new" 318 came out in 1967


"Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1120361330.ec78b60b4d77110a8a0a4076fb72d709@t eranews...
> Bill,
>
> Actually, the proliferation of hoses gave it away more than the valve
> covers. I believe that the transition to the new small block design was
> 1966, give or take a year.
>
> Earle
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:42C6E96F.153C8068@***.net...
>> Hi Earle,
>> I believe the engine you're thinking of is probably the 318 using
>> the 383 block with the irregular shaped valve covers, but I know of the
>> 318 that topped out a 360" unfortunately I can only find an engine
>> picture going back to this '67 Plymouth:
>>
> http://www.hemmings.com/index.cfm/fu...icle_id/218886
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Earle Horton wrote:
>> >
>> > That is not a 1957 318". I don't even have to look in the book for
>> > that
>> > one.
>> >
>> > Earle
>
>

 

The metal sleeves are heat shielding and keep the plug wires from move it
side to side. You should have changed the plugs every 30K (my opinion).
You need to get a new set of wires, distributor cap and a rotor too. Just
wiggle the wire until it comes free, use a plug wrench with several
extensions and universal joints. If they are OEM plugs they will be a
bastard to remove the factory always over tightens them, you might even
break the porcelain but no biggy.

--
Coasty
SEMPAR PARATUS
(ALWAYS READY)

Remove The SPOOGE To Reply
"----" <LeadWinger> wrote in message
news:97hdc1tqu6o2l5f5r3jmn0oa64dhn4bsbc@4ax.com...
> It has probably been 40 years since I have changed plugs on one of my
> vehicles. Primarily because when I was working I never kept a car
> long enough for it to need new plugs. My '93 JGC V-8 has 90,000
> miles, and it is time for new ones. I thought I would just do it
> myself so I bought a set of plugs. Then I had second thoughts and
> checked with a couple of independent shops, and they both wanted $60
> just for the labor! The Jeep dealer wanted even more! Am I missing
> something here?
>
> I know on my '67 GTO you had to put it on a hoist, remove the front
> wheels, and go in through the wheel wells. The JGC looks pretty easy.
> Maybe the air cleaner tube needs to come off, but other than that, I
> can't see why it would cost $60 to remove and install 8 spark plugs.
>
> I see that there are little metal sleeves around each plug, and the
> plastic cap has a ridge that kind of covers the sleeve. Is it OK to
> pull on the ridge to remove the plug wires? Or do you need a special
> puller? Can you just leave the metal sleeve in place and take the
> plug out through it? Thanks.
>
> ----

 

The metal sleeves are heat shielding and keep the plug wires from move it
side to side. You should have changed the plugs every 30K (my opinion).
You need to get a new set of wires, distributor cap and a rotor too. Just
wiggle the wire until it comes free, use a plug wrench with several
extensions and universal joints. If they are OEM plugs they will be a
bastard to remove the factory always over tightens them, you might even
break the porcelain but no biggy.

--
Coasty
SEMPAR PARATUS
(ALWAYS READY)

Remove The SPOOGE To Reply
"----" <LeadWinger> wrote in message
news:97hdc1tqu6o2l5f5r3jmn0oa64dhn4bsbc@4ax.com...
> It has probably been 40 years since I have changed plugs on one of my
> vehicles. Primarily because when I was working I never kept a car
> long enough for it to need new plugs. My '93 JGC V-8 has 90,000
> miles, and it is time for new ones. I thought I would just do it
> myself so I bought a set of plugs. Then I had second thoughts and
> checked with a couple of independent shops, and they both wanted $60
> just for the labor! The Jeep dealer wanted even more! Am I missing
> something here?
>
> I know on my '67 GTO you had to put it on a hoist, remove the front
> wheels, and go in through the wheel wells. The JGC looks pretty easy.
> Maybe the air cleaner tube needs to come off, but other than that, I
> can't see why it would cost $60 to remove and install 8 spark plugs.
>
> I see that there are little metal sleeves around each plug, and the
> plastic cap has a ridge that kind of covers the sleeve. Is it OK to
> pull on the ridge to remove the plug wires? Or do you need a special
> puller? Can you just leave the metal sleeve in place and take the
> plug out through it? Thanks.
>
> ----

 

The metal sleeves are heat shielding and keep the plug wires from move it
side to side. You should have changed the plugs every 30K (my opinion).
You need to get a new set of wires, distributor cap and a rotor too. Just
wiggle the wire until it comes free, use a plug wrench with several
extensions and universal joints. If they are OEM plugs they will be a
bastard to remove the factory always over tightens them, you might even
break the porcelain but no biggy.

--
Coasty
SEMPAR PARATUS
(ALWAYS READY)

Remove The SPOOGE To Reply
"----" <LeadWinger> wrote in message
news:97hdc1tqu6o2l5f5r3jmn0oa64dhn4bsbc@4ax.com...
> It has probably been 40 years since I have changed plugs on one of my
> vehicles. Primarily because when I was working I never kept a car
> long enough for it to need new plugs. My '93 JGC V-8 has 90,000
> miles, and it is time for new ones. I thought I would just do it
> myself so I bought a set of plugs. Then I had second thoughts and
> checked with a couple of independent shops, and they both wanted $60
> just for the labor! The Jeep dealer wanted even more! Am I missing
> something here?
>
> I know on my '67 GTO you had to put it on a hoist, remove the front
> wheels, and go in through the wheel wells. The JGC looks pretty easy.
> Maybe the air cleaner tube needs to come off, but other than that, I
> can't see why it would cost $60 to remove and install 8 spark plugs.
>
> I see that there are little metal sleeves around each plug, and the
> plastic cap has a ridge that kind of covers the sleeve. Is it OK to
> pull on the ridge to remove the plug wires? Or do you need a special
> puller? Can you just leave the metal sleeve in place and take the
> plug out through it? Thanks.
>
> ----

 

The metal sleeves are heat shielding and keep the plug wires from move it
side to side. You should have changed the plugs every 30K (my opinion).
You need to get a new set of wires, distributor cap and a rotor too. Just
wiggle the wire until it comes free, use a plug wrench with several
extensions and universal joints. If they are OEM plugs they will be a
bastard to remove the factory always over tightens them, you might even
break the porcelain but no biggy.

--
Coasty
SEMPAR PARATUS
(ALWAYS READY)

Remove The SPOOGE To Reply
"----" <LeadWinger> wrote in message
news:97hdc1tqu6o2l5f5r3jmn0oa64dhn4bsbc@4ax.com...
> It has probably been 40 years since I have changed plugs on one of my
> vehicles. Primarily because when I was working I never kept a car
> long enough for it to need new plugs. My '93 JGC V-8 has 90,000
> miles, and it is time for new ones. I thought I would just do it
> myself so I bought a set of plugs. Then I had second thoughts and
> checked with a couple of independent shops, and they both wanted $60
> just for the labor! The Jeep dealer wanted even more! Am I missing
> something here?
>
> I know on my '67 GTO you had to put it on a hoist, remove the front
> wheels, and go in through the wheel wells. The JGC looks pretty easy.
> Maybe the air cleaner tube needs to come off, but other than that, I
> can't see why it would cost $60 to remove and install 8 spark plugs.
>
> I see that there are little metal sleeves around each plug, and the
> plastic cap has a ridge that kind of covers the sleeve. Is it OK to
> pull on the ridge to remove the plug wires? Or do you need a special
> puller? Can you just leave the metal sleeve in place and take the
> plug out through it? Thanks.
>
> ----

 

Thanks. Everything was changed at the Jeep dealer at 64,000. A
little past the 60,000 mile point. At 90,000, only the plugs and air
cleaner are scheduled for change. The next major replacement point is
120,000 miles. Do you know if the metal sleeves can stay in place
when you remove the plugs?

----

On Sun, 3 Jul 2005 06:20:33 -0400, "Coasty"
<uscg_retSPOOGE@comcast.net> wrote:

>The metal sleeves are heat shielding and keep the plug wires from move it
>side to side. You should have changed the plugs every 30K (my opinion).
>You need to get a new set of wires, distributor cap and a rotor too. Just
>wiggle the wire until it comes free, use a plug wrench with several
>extensions and universal joints. If they are OEM plugs they will be a
>bastard to remove the factory always over tightens them, you might even
>break the porcelain but no biggy.

 

Thanks. Everything was changed at the Jeep dealer at 64,000. A
little past the 60,000 mile point. At 90,000, only the plugs and air
cleaner are scheduled for change. The next major replacement point is
120,000 miles. Do you know if the metal sleeves can stay in place
when you remove the plugs?

----

On Sun, 3 Jul 2005 06:20:33 -0400, "Coasty"
<uscg_retSPOOGE@comcast.net> wrote:

>The metal sleeves are heat shielding and keep the plug wires from move it
>side to side. You should have changed the plugs every 30K (my opinion).
>You need to get a new set of wires, distributor cap and a rotor too. Just
>wiggle the wire until it comes free, use a plug wrench with several
>extensions and universal joints. If they are OEM plugs they will be a
>bastard to remove the factory always over tightens them, you might even
>break the porcelain but no biggy.

 

Thanks. Everything was changed at the Jeep dealer at 64,000. A
little past the 60,000 mile point. At 90,000, only the plugs and air
cleaner are scheduled for change. The next major replacement point is
120,000 miles. Do you know if the metal sleeves can stay in place
when you remove the plugs?

----

On Sun, 3 Jul 2005 06:20:33 -0400, "Coasty"
<uscg_retSPOOGE@comcast.net> wrote:

>The metal sleeves are heat shielding and keep the plug wires from move it
>side to side. You should have changed the plugs every 30K (my opinion).
>You need to get a new set of wires, distributor cap and a rotor too. Just
>wiggle the wire until it comes free, use a plug wrench with several
>extensions and universal joints. If they are OEM plugs they will be a
>bastard to remove the factory always over tightens them, you might even
>break the porcelain but no biggy.