Chain treatment
11-20-2004, 03:07 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment - boil it in hot water !
I got some cold galvanizing spray that is pretty good so far. In 99 I
used it on all the washers I needed as spacers to set my fiberglass body
on nice and straight. Not one washer is showing any sign of rust.
The stuff is also supposed to be sacrificial so even if a wear spot
occurs it is supposed to protect it.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Rich Hampel wrote:
>
> For best anti-rust: take it to a 'galvinizing' shop .... they will
> blast it and then hot dip the chain in molten zinc. This is not going
> to be cheap and if the chain is not HT Proof, BBB, or HT chain, the
> value of the chain isnt worth it.
>
> For short term rust prevention, boil the chain in hot water for approx.
> an hour. If you add a bit of phosphoric acid (coke or pepsi contains
> phosphoric) the reaction will be faster. Just boil the chain until it
> turns black or dark in color. Other rust reducers such as 'Naval
> Jelly' or "Ospho" will also do the trick. What you are doing with
> this method is 'blueing' the chain .... converting the rust from ferric
> oxide to ferrous oxide ..... ferrous oxide is the 'good' rust that
> helps prevent further rust (of the ferric variety).
>
> Coating the chain with paint or epoxy or vinyl, etc. is the WORST thing
> to do as 'when' you break the coating the ferric rust will be enhanced
> by any water that gets 'under' the coating.
>
> The simplest rust preventer is to simply boil the chain in hot water
> until it turns black/dark (with a can of coke or pepsi added to the
> mix).... works on rust prone tools and parts too.
>
> You really shouldnt use acids (other than phosphoric) to clean the
> chain because it removes metal, makes the chain weaker and promotes
> more rust ( unless you quickly form a ferrous oxide coating.).
> ;-)
>
> In article <jfMnd.644523$8_6.52704@attbi_s04>, Lon
> <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > hrncir proclaimed:
> >
> > > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> > > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
> >
> > There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
> > epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
> > tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
> > Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
used it on all the washers I needed as spacers to set my fiberglass body
on nice and straight. Not one washer is showing any sign of rust.
The stuff is also supposed to be sacrificial so even if a wear spot
occurs it is supposed to protect it.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Rich Hampel wrote:
>
> For best anti-rust: take it to a 'galvinizing' shop .... they will
> blast it and then hot dip the chain in molten zinc. This is not going
> to be cheap and if the chain is not HT Proof, BBB, or HT chain, the
> value of the chain isnt worth it.
>
> For short term rust prevention, boil the chain in hot water for approx.
> an hour. If you add a bit of phosphoric acid (coke or pepsi contains
> phosphoric) the reaction will be faster. Just boil the chain until it
> turns black or dark in color. Other rust reducers such as 'Naval
> Jelly' or "Ospho" will also do the trick. What you are doing with
> this method is 'blueing' the chain .... converting the rust from ferric
> oxide to ferrous oxide ..... ferrous oxide is the 'good' rust that
> helps prevent further rust (of the ferric variety).
>
> Coating the chain with paint or epoxy or vinyl, etc. is the WORST thing
> to do as 'when' you break the coating the ferric rust will be enhanced
> by any water that gets 'under' the coating.
>
> The simplest rust preventer is to simply boil the chain in hot water
> until it turns black/dark (with a can of coke or pepsi added to the
> mix).... works on rust prone tools and parts too.
>
> You really shouldnt use acids (other than phosphoric) to clean the
> chain because it removes metal, makes the chain weaker and promotes
> more rust ( unless you quickly form a ferrous oxide coating.).
> ;-)
>
> In article <jfMnd.644523$8_6.52704@attbi_s04>, Lon
> <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > hrncir proclaimed:
> >
> > > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> > > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
> >
> > There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
> > epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
> > tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
> > Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
11-20-2004, 03:07 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment - boil it in hot water !
I got some cold galvanizing spray that is pretty good so far. In 99 I
used it on all the washers I needed as spacers to set my fiberglass body
on nice and straight. Not one washer is showing any sign of rust.
The stuff is also supposed to be sacrificial so even if a wear spot
occurs it is supposed to protect it.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Rich Hampel wrote:
>
> For best anti-rust: take it to a 'galvinizing' shop .... they will
> blast it and then hot dip the chain in molten zinc. This is not going
> to be cheap and if the chain is not HT Proof, BBB, or HT chain, the
> value of the chain isnt worth it.
>
> For short term rust prevention, boil the chain in hot water for approx.
> an hour. If you add a bit of phosphoric acid (coke or pepsi contains
> phosphoric) the reaction will be faster. Just boil the chain until it
> turns black or dark in color. Other rust reducers such as 'Naval
> Jelly' or "Ospho" will also do the trick. What you are doing with
> this method is 'blueing' the chain .... converting the rust from ferric
> oxide to ferrous oxide ..... ferrous oxide is the 'good' rust that
> helps prevent further rust (of the ferric variety).
>
> Coating the chain with paint or epoxy or vinyl, etc. is the WORST thing
> to do as 'when' you break the coating the ferric rust will be enhanced
> by any water that gets 'under' the coating.
>
> The simplest rust preventer is to simply boil the chain in hot water
> until it turns black/dark (with a can of coke or pepsi added to the
> mix).... works on rust prone tools and parts too.
>
> You really shouldnt use acids (other than phosphoric) to clean the
> chain because it removes metal, makes the chain weaker and promotes
> more rust ( unless you quickly form a ferrous oxide coating.).
> ;-)
>
> In article <jfMnd.644523$8_6.52704@attbi_s04>, Lon
> <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > hrncir proclaimed:
> >
> > > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> > > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
> >
> > There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
> > epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
> > tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
> > Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
used it on all the washers I needed as spacers to set my fiberglass body
on nice and straight. Not one washer is showing any sign of rust.
The stuff is also supposed to be sacrificial so even if a wear spot
occurs it is supposed to protect it.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Rich Hampel wrote:
>
> For best anti-rust: take it to a 'galvinizing' shop .... they will
> blast it and then hot dip the chain in molten zinc. This is not going
> to be cheap and if the chain is not HT Proof, BBB, or HT chain, the
> value of the chain isnt worth it.
>
> For short term rust prevention, boil the chain in hot water for approx.
> an hour. If you add a bit of phosphoric acid (coke or pepsi contains
> phosphoric) the reaction will be faster. Just boil the chain until it
> turns black or dark in color. Other rust reducers such as 'Naval
> Jelly' or "Ospho" will also do the trick. What you are doing with
> this method is 'blueing' the chain .... converting the rust from ferric
> oxide to ferrous oxide ..... ferrous oxide is the 'good' rust that
> helps prevent further rust (of the ferric variety).
>
> Coating the chain with paint or epoxy or vinyl, etc. is the WORST thing
> to do as 'when' you break the coating the ferric rust will be enhanced
> by any water that gets 'under' the coating.
>
> The simplest rust preventer is to simply boil the chain in hot water
> until it turns black/dark (with a can of coke or pepsi added to the
> mix).... works on rust prone tools and parts too.
>
> You really shouldnt use acids (other than phosphoric) to clean the
> chain because it removes metal, makes the chain weaker and promotes
> more rust ( unless you quickly form a ferrous oxide coating.).
> ;-)
>
> In article <jfMnd.644523$8_6.52704@attbi_s04>, Lon
> <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > hrncir proclaimed:
> >
> > > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> > > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
> >
> > There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
> > epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
> > tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
> > Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
11-20-2004, 09:22 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment
WD40 doesn't absorb water, it displaces water. But it doesn't have
substantial adherant properties...it just evaporates away and leaves a weak,
thin film. Not the best for rustproofing or lubrication.
"Steve" <xjlifter@bogus.com> wrote in message
news:304krnF2n3m4rU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Hi Gus,
>
> WD40 is a penetrant that absorbs water. Try one of these water repellant
> lubricant/protectants instead:
>
> http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/home.htm
> http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
>
> hrncir wrote:
> > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to
treat
> > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
> > Your wisdom please.
> > Thanks
> > Gus Hrncir
> > Houston, Texas
substantial adherant properties...it just evaporates away and leaves a weak,
thin film. Not the best for rustproofing or lubrication.
"Steve" <xjlifter@bogus.com> wrote in message
news:304krnF2n3m4rU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Hi Gus,
>
> WD40 is a penetrant that absorbs water. Try one of these water repellant
> lubricant/protectants instead:
>
> http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/home.htm
> http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
>
> hrncir wrote:
> > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to
treat
> > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
> > Your wisdom please.
> > Thanks
> > Gus Hrncir
> > Houston, Texas
11-20-2004, 09:22 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment
WD40 doesn't absorb water, it displaces water. But it doesn't have
substantial adherant properties...it just evaporates away and leaves a weak,
thin film. Not the best for rustproofing or lubrication.
"Steve" <xjlifter@bogus.com> wrote in message
news:304krnF2n3m4rU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Hi Gus,
>
> WD40 is a penetrant that absorbs water. Try one of these water repellant
> lubricant/protectants instead:
>
> http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/home.htm
> http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
>
> hrncir wrote:
> > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to
treat
> > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
> > Your wisdom please.
> > Thanks
> > Gus Hrncir
> > Houston, Texas
substantial adherant properties...it just evaporates away and leaves a weak,
thin film. Not the best for rustproofing or lubrication.
"Steve" <xjlifter@bogus.com> wrote in message
news:304krnF2n3m4rU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Hi Gus,
>
> WD40 is a penetrant that absorbs water. Try one of these water repellant
> lubricant/protectants instead:
>
> http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/home.htm
> http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
>
> hrncir wrote:
> > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to
treat
> > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
> > Your wisdom please.
> > Thanks
> > Gus Hrncir
> > Houston, Texas
11-20-2004, 09:22 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment
WD40 doesn't absorb water, it displaces water. But it doesn't have
substantial adherant properties...it just evaporates away and leaves a weak,
thin film. Not the best for rustproofing or lubrication.
"Steve" <xjlifter@bogus.com> wrote in message
news:304krnF2n3m4rU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Hi Gus,
>
> WD40 is a penetrant that absorbs water. Try one of these water repellant
> lubricant/protectants instead:
>
> http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/home.htm
> http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
>
> hrncir wrote:
> > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to
treat
> > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
> > Your wisdom please.
> > Thanks
> > Gus Hrncir
> > Houston, Texas
substantial adherant properties...it just evaporates away and leaves a weak,
thin film. Not the best for rustproofing or lubrication.
"Steve" <xjlifter@bogus.com> wrote in message
news:304krnF2n3m4rU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Hi Gus,
>
> WD40 is a penetrant that absorbs water. Try one of these water repellant
> lubricant/protectants instead:
>
> http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/home.htm
> http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
>
> hrncir wrote:
> > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to
treat
> > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
> > Your wisdom please.
> > Thanks
> > Gus Hrncir
> > Houston, Texas
11-21-2004, 07:40 AM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment
Hi Matt,
You're right, it does displace water on contact, but after it dries,
especially in crevices or covered areas, I've seen it apparently absorb
humidity and rust faster than bare metal.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> WD40 doesn't absorb water, it displaces water. But it doesn't have
> substantial adherant properties...it just evaporates away and leaves a weak,
> thin film. Not the best for rustproofing or lubrication.
>
> "Steve" <xjlifter@bogus.com> wrote in message
> news:304krnF2n3m4rU1@uni-berlin.de...
>
>>Hi Gus,
>>
>>WD40 is a penetrant that absorbs water. Try one of these water repellant
>>lubricant/protectants instead:
>>
>> http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/home.htm
>> http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm
>>
>>Steve
>>http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>>
>>
>>hrncir wrote:
>>
>>>I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
>>>acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to
>
> treat
>
>>>it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
>>>work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
>>>Your wisdom please.
>>>Thanks
>>>Gus Hrncir
>>>Houston, Texas
>
>
>
You're right, it does displace water on contact, but after it dries,
especially in crevices or covered areas, I've seen it apparently absorb
humidity and rust faster than bare metal.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> WD40 doesn't absorb water, it displaces water. But it doesn't have
> substantial adherant properties...it just evaporates away and leaves a weak,
> thin film. Not the best for rustproofing or lubrication.
>
> "Steve" <xjlifter@bogus.com> wrote in message
> news:304krnF2n3m4rU1@uni-berlin.de...
>
>>Hi Gus,
>>
>>WD40 is a penetrant that absorbs water. Try one of these water repellant
>>lubricant/protectants instead:
>>
>> http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/home.htm
>> http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm
>>
>>Steve
>>http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>>
>>
>>hrncir wrote:
>>
>>>I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
>>>acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to
>
> treat
>
>>>it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
>>>work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
>>>Your wisdom please.
>>>Thanks
>>>Gus Hrncir
>>>Houston, Texas
>
>
>
11-21-2004, 07:40 AM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment
Hi Matt,
You're right, it does displace water on contact, but after it dries,
especially in crevices or covered areas, I've seen it apparently absorb
humidity and rust faster than bare metal.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> WD40 doesn't absorb water, it displaces water. But it doesn't have
> substantial adherant properties...it just evaporates away and leaves a weak,
> thin film. Not the best for rustproofing or lubrication.
>
> "Steve" <xjlifter@bogus.com> wrote in message
> news:304krnF2n3m4rU1@uni-berlin.de...
>
>>Hi Gus,
>>
>>WD40 is a penetrant that absorbs water. Try one of these water repellant
>>lubricant/protectants instead:
>>
>> http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/home.htm
>> http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm
>>
>>Steve
>>http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>>
>>
>>hrncir wrote:
>>
>>>I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
>>>acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to
>
> treat
>
>>>it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
>>>work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
>>>Your wisdom please.
>>>Thanks
>>>Gus Hrncir
>>>Houston, Texas
>
>
>
You're right, it does displace water on contact, but after it dries,
especially in crevices or covered areas, I've seen it apparently absorb
humidity and rust faster than bare metal.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> WD40 doesn't absorb water, it displaces water. But it doesn't have
> substantial adherant properties...it just evaporates away and leaves a weak,
> thin film. Not the best for rustproofing or lubrication.
>
> "Steve" <xjlifter@bogus.com> wrote in message
> news:304krnF2n3m4rU1@uni-berlin.de...
>
>>Hi Gus,
>>
>>WD40 is a penetrant that absorbs water. Try one of these water repellant
>>lubricant/protectants instead:
>>
>> http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/home.htm
>> http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm
>>
>>Steve
>>http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>>
>>
>>hrncir wrote:
>>
>>>I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
>>>acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to
>
> treat
>
>>>it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
>>>work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
>>>Your wisdom please.
>>>Thanks
>>>Gus Hrncir
>>>Houston, Texas
>
>
>
11-21-2004, 07:40 AM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment
Hi Matt,
You're right, it does displace water on contact, but after it dries,
especially in crevices or covered areas, I've seen it apparently absorb
humidity and rust faster than bare metal.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> WD40 doesn't absorb water, it displaces water. But it doesn't have
> substantial adherant properties...it just evaporates away and leaves a weak,
> thin film. Not the best for rustproofing or lubrication.
>
> "Steve" <xjlifter@bogus.com> wrote in message
> news:304krnF2n3m4rU1@uni-berlin.de...
>
>>Hi Gus,
>>
>>WD40 is a penetrant that absorbs water. Try one of these water repellant
>>lubricant/protectants instead:
>>
>> http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/home.htm
>> http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm
>>
>>Steve
>>http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>>
>>
>>hrncir wrote:
>>
>>>I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
>>>acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to
>
> treat
>
>>>it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
>>>work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
>>>Your wisdom please.
>>>Thanks
>>>Gus Hrncir
>>>Houston, Texas
>
>
>
You're right, it does displace water on contact, but after it dries,
especially in crevices or covered areas, I've seen it apparently absorb
humidity and rust faster than bare metal.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> WD40 doesn't absorb water, it displaces water. But it doesn't have
> substantial adherant properties...it just evaporates away and leaves a weak,
> thin film. Not the best for rustproofing or lubrication.
>
> "Steve" <xjlifter@bogus.com> wrote in message
> news:304krnF2n3m4rU1@uni-berlin.de...
>
>>Hi Gus,
>>
>>WD40 is a penetrant that absorbs water. Try one of these water repellant
>>lubricant/protectants instead:
>>
>> http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/home.htm
>> http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm
>>
>>Steve
>>http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>>
>>
>>hrncir wrote:
>>
>>>I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
>>>acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to
>
> treat
>
>>>it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
>>>work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
>>>Your wisdom please.
>>>Thanks
>>>Gus Hrncir
>>>Houston, Texas
>
>
>
11-21-2004, 11:13 AM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment
On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 18:43:28 GMT, Lon <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:
>hrncir proclaimed:
>
>> I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
>> acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
>> it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
>> work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
Bare low-carbon steel chain is hopeless for rust. The only way you can
keep your chain reasonably nice looking is to buy a quality galvanized
chain like marine anchor chain. I have a 30 ft piece of 3/8 High-Test
chain that looks great after 5 years anchoring my SeaRay in salt water
and then 15 years of sporadic 4x4 use like dragging logs and stumps.
OTH I have always washed it off with fresh water and let it dry well
before storing in my emergency bag.
If you are truly ---- you can also find stainless chain.
http://www.westmarine.com Look in the Anchor and Docking section.
Quality chain costs $$$.
John
John Davies TLCA 14732
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
>hrncir proclaimed:
>
>> I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
>> acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
>> it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
>> work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
Bare low-carbon steel chain is hopeless for rust. The only way you can
keep your chain reasonably nice looking is to buy a quality galvanized
chain like marine anchor chain. I have a 30 ft piece of 3/8 High-Test
chain that looks great after 5 years anchoring my SeaRay in salt water
and then 15 years of sporadic 4x4 use like dragging logs and stumps.
OTH I have always washed it off with fresh water and let it dry well
before storing in my emergency bag.
If you are truly ---- you can also find stainless chain.
http://www.westmarine.com Look in the Anchor and Docking section.
Quality chain costs $$$.
John
John Davies TLCA 14732
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
11-21-2004, 11:13 AM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment
On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 18:43:28 GMT, Lon <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:
>hrncir proclaimed:
>
>> I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
>> acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
>> it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
>> work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
Bare low-carbon steel chain is hopeless for rust. The only way you can
keep your chain reasonably nice looking is to buy a quality galvanized
chain like marine anchor chain. I have a 30 ft piece of 3/8 High-Test
chain that looks great after 5 years anchoring my SeaRay in salt water
and then 15 years of sporadic 4x4 use like dragging logs and stumps.
OTH I have always washed it off with fresh water and let it dry well
before storing in my emergency bag.
If you are truly ---- you can also find stainless chain.
http://www.westmarine.com Look in the Anchor and Docking section.
Quality chain costs $$$.
John
John Davies TLCA 14732
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
>hrncir proclaimed:
>
>> I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
>> acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
>> it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
>> work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
Bare low-carbon steel chain is hopeless for rust. The only way you can
keep your chain reasonably nice looking is to buy a quality galvanized
chain like marine anchor chain. I have a 30 ft piece of 3/8 High-Test
chain that looks great after 5 years anchoring my SeaRay in salt water
and then 15 years of sporadic 4x4 use like dragging logs and stumps.
OTH I have always washed it off with fresh water and let it dry well
before storing in my emergency bag.
If you are truly ---- you can also find stainless chain.
http://www.westmarine.com Look in the Anchor and Docking section.
Quality chain costs $$$.
John
John Davies TLCA 14732
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA