Chain treatment
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment
Cool.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
HarryS wrote:
>
> I use a product called Break Free CPL first came in contact with it back in
> the late 70s used in a marine environment not even the brass turned green.
> I was developed to protect military weapon systems from corrosion.
>
> HarryS
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
HarryS wrote:
>
> I use a product called Break Free CPL first came in contact with it back in
> the late 70s used in a marine environment not even the brass turned green.
> I was developed to protect military weapon systems from corrosion.
>
> HarryS
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment
Cool.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
HarryS wrote:
>
> I use a product called Break Free CPL first came in contact with it back in
> the late 70s used in a marine environment not even the brass turned green.
> I was developed to protect military weapon systems from corrosion.
>
> HarryS
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
HarryS wrote:
>
> I use a product called Break Free CPL first came in contact with it back in
> the late 70s used in a marine environment not even the brass turned green.
> I was developed to protect military weapon systems from corrosion.
>
> HarryS
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment
Cool.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
HarryS wrote:
>
> I use a product called Break Free CPL first came in contact with it back in
> the late 70s used in a marine environment not even the brass turned green.
> I was developed to protect military weapon systems from corrosion.
>
> HarryS
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
HarryS wrote:
>
> I use a product called Break Free CPL first came in contact with it back in
> the late 70s used in a marine environment not even the brass turned green.
> I was developed to protect military weapon systems from corrosion.
>
> HarryS
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment
hrncir proclaimed:
> I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
> I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment
hrncir proclaimed:
> I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
> I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment
hrncir proclaimed:
> I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
> I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment - boil it in hot water !
For best anti-rust: take it to a 'galvinizing' shop .... they will
blast it and then hot dip the chain in molten zinc. This is not going
to be cheap and if the chain is not HT Proof, BBB, or HT chain, the
value of the chain isnt worth it.
For short term rust prevention, boil the chain in hot water for approx.
an hour. If you add a bit of phosphoric acid (coke or pepsi contains
phosphoric) the reaction will be faster. Just boil the chain until it
turns black or dark in color. Other rust reducers such as 'Naval
Jelly' or "Ospho" will also do the trick. What you are doing with
this method is 'blueing' the chain .... converting the rust from ferric
oxide to ferrous oxide ..... ferrous oxide is the 'good' rust that
helps prevent further rust (of the ferric variety).
Coating the chain with paint or epoxy or vinyl, etc. is the WORST thing
to do as 'when' you break the coating the ferric rust will be enhanced
by any water that gets 'under' the coating.
The simplest rust preventer is to simply boil the chain in hot water
until it turns black/dark (with a can of coke or pepsi added to the
mix).... works on rust prone tools and parts too.
You really shouldnt use acids (other than phosphoric) to clean the
chain because it removes metal, makes the chain weaker and promotes
more rust ( unless you quickly form a ferrous oxide coating.).
;-)
In article <jfMnd.644523$8_6.52704@attbi_s04>, Lon
<lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:
> hrncir proclaimed:
>
> > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
>
> There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
> epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
> tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
> Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
blast it and then hot dip the chain in molten zinc. This is not going
to be cheap and if the chain is not HT Proof, BBB, or HT chain, the
value of the chain isnt worth it.
For short term rust prevention, boil the chain in hot water for approx.
an hour. If you add a bit of phosphoric acid (coke or pepsi contains
phosphoric) the reaction will be faster. Just boil the chain until it
turns black or dark in color. Other rust reducers such as 'Naval
Jelly' or "Ospho" will also do the trick. What you are doing with
this method is 'blueing' the chain .... converting the rust from ferric
oxide to ferrous oxide ..... ferrous oxide is the 'good' rust that
helps prevent further rust (of the ferric variety).
Coating the chain with paint or epoxy or vinyl, etc. is the WORST thing
to do as 'when' you break the coating the ferric rust will be enhanced
by any water that gets 'under' the coating.
The simplest rust preventer is to simply boil the chain in hot water
until it turns black/dark (with a can of coke or pepsi added to the
mix).... works on rust prone tools and parts too.
You really shouldnt use acids (other than phosphoric) to clean the
chain because it removes metal, makes the chain weaker and promotes
more rust ( unless you quickly form a ferrous oxide coating.).
;-)
In article <jfMnd.644523$8_6.52704@attbi_s04>, Lon
<lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:
> hrncir proclaimed:
>
> > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
>
> There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
> epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
> tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
> Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment - boil it in hot water !
For best anti-rust: take it to a 'galvinizing' shop .... they will
blast it and then hot dip the chain in molten zinc. This is not going
to be cheap and if the chain is not HT Proof, BBB, or HT chain, the
value of the chain isnt worth it.
For short term rust prevention, boil the chain in hot water for approx.
an hour. If you add a bit of phosphoric acid (coke or pepsi contains
phosphoric) the reaction will be faster. Just boil the chain until it
turns black or dark in color. Other rust reducers such as 'Naval
Jelly' or "Ospho" will also do the trick. What you are doing with
this method is 'blueing' the chain .... converting the rust from ferric
oxide to ferrous oxide ..... ferrous oxide is the 'good' rust that
helps prevent further rust (of the ferric variety).
Coating the chain with paint or epoxy or vinyl, etc. is the WORST thing
to do as 'when' you break the coating the ferric rust will be enhanced
by any water that gets 'under' the coating.
The simplest rust preventer is to simply boil the chain in hot water
until it turns black/dark (with a can of coke or pepsi added to the
mix).... works on rust prone tools and parts too.
You really shouldnt use acids (other than phosphoric) to clean the
chain because it removes metal, makes the chain weaker and promotes
more rust ( unless you quickly form a ferrous oxide coating.).
;-)
In article <jfMnd.644523$8_6.52704@attbi_s04>, Lon
<lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:
> hrncir proclaimed:
>
> > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
>
> There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
> epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
> tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
> Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
blast it and then hot dip the chain in molten zinc. This is not going
to be cheap and if the chain is not HT Proof, BBB, or HT chain, the
value of the chain isnt worth it.
For short term rust prevention, boil the chain in hot water for approx.
an hour. If you add a bit of phosphoric acid (coke or pepsi contains
phosphoric) the reaction will be faster. Just boil the chain until it
turns black or dark in color. Other rust reducers such as 'Naval
Jelly' or "Ospho" will also do the trick. What you are doing with
this method is 'blueing' the chain .... converting the rust from ferric
oxide to ferrous oxide ..... ferrous oxide is the 'good' rust that
helps prevent further rust (of the ferric variety).
Coating the chain with paint or epoxy or vinyl, etc. is the WORST thing
to do as 'when' you break the coating the ferric rust will be enhanced
by any water that gets 'under' the coating.
The simplest rust preventer is to simply boil the chain in hot water
until it turns black/dark (with a can of coke or pepsi added to the
mix).... works on rust prone tools and parts too.
You really shouldnt use acids (other than phosphoric) to clean the
chain because it removes metal, makes the chain weaker and promotes
more rust ( unless you quickly form a ferrous oxide coating.).
;-)
In article <jfMnd.644523$8_6.52704@attbi_s04>, Lon
<lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:
> hrncir proclaimed:
>
> > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
>
> There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
> epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
> tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
> Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment - boil it in hot water !
For best anti-rust: take it to a 'galvinizing' shop .... they will
blast it and then hot dip the chain in molten zinc. This is not going
to be cheap and if the chain is not HT Proof, BBB, or HT chain, the
value of the chain isnt worth it.
For short term rust prevention, boil the chain in hot water for approx.
an hour. If you add a bit of phosphoric acid (coke or pepsi contains
phosphoric) the reaction will be faster. Just boil the chain until it
turns black or dark in color. Other rust reducers such as 'Naval
Jelly' or "Ospho" will also do the trick. What you are doing with
this method is 'blueing' the chain .... converting the rust from ferric
oxide to ferrous oxide ..... ferrous oxide is the 'good' rust that
helps prevent further rust (of the ferric variety).
Coating the chain with paint or epoxy or vinyl, etc. is the WORST thing
to do as 'when' you break the coating the ferric rust will be enhanced
by any water that gets 'under' the coating.
The simplest rust preventer is to simply boil the chain in hot water
until it turns black/dark (with a can of coke or pepsi added to the
mix).... works on rust prone tools and parts too.
You really shouldnt use acids (other than phosphoric) to clean the
chain because it removes metal, makes the chain weaker and promotes
more rust ( unless you quickly form a ferrous oxide coating.).
;-)
In article <jfMnd.644523$8_6.52704@attbi_s04>, Lon
<lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:
> hrncir proclaimed:
>
> > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
>
> There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
> epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
> tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
> Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
blast it and then hot dip the chain in molten zinc. This is not going
to be cheap and if the chain is not HT Proof, BBB, or HT chain, the
value of the chain isnt worth it.
For short term rust prevention, boil the chain in hot water for approx.
an hour. If you add a bit of phosphoric acid (coke or pepsi contains
phosphoric) the reaction will be faster. Just boil the chain until it
turns black or dark in color. Other rust reducers such as 'Naval
Jelly' or "Ospho" will also do the trick. What you are doing with
this method is 'blueing' the chain .... converting the rust from ferric
oxide to ferrous oxide ..... ferrous oxide is the 'good' rust that
helps prevent further rust (of the ferric variety).
Coating the chain with paint or epoxy or vinyl, etc. is the WORST thing
to do as 'when' you break the coating the ferric rust will be enhanced
by any water that gets 'under' the coating.
The simplest rust preventer is to simply boil the chain in hot water
until it turns black/dark (with a can of coke or pepsi added to the
mix).... works on rust prone tools and parts too.
You really shouldnt use acids (other than phosphoric) to clean the
chain because it removes metal, makes the chain weaker and promotes
more rust ( unless you quickly form a ferrous oxide coating.).
;-)
In article <jfMnd.644523$8_6.52704@attbi_s04>, Lon
<lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:
> hrncir proclaimed:
>
> > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
>
> There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
> epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
> tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
> Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chain treatment - boil it in hot water !
I got some cold galvanizing spray that is pretty good so far. In 99 I
used it on all the washers I needed as spacers to set my fiberglass body
on nice and straight. Not one washer is showing any sign of rust.
The stuff is also supposed to be sacrificial so even if a wear spot
occurs it is supposed to protect it.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Rich Hampel wrote:
>
> For best anti-rust: take it to a 'galvinizing' shop .... they will
> blast it and then hot dip the chain in molten zinc. This is not going
> to be cheap and if the chain is not HT Proof, BBB, or HT chain, the
> value of the chain isnt worth it.
>
> For short term rust prevention, boil the chain in hot water for approx.
> an hour. If you add a bit of phosphoric acid (coke or pepsi contains
> phosphoric) the reaction will be faster. Just boil the chain until it
> turns black or dark in color. Other rust reducers such as 'Naval
> Jelly' or "Ospho" will also do the trick. What you are doing with
> this method is 'blueing' the chain .... converting the rust from ferric
> oxide to ferrous oxide ..... ferrous oxide is the 'good' rust that
> helps prevent further rust (of the ferric variety).
>
> Coating the chain with paint or epoxy or vinyl, etc. is the WORST thing
> to do as 'when' you break the coating the ferric rust will be enhanced
> by any water that gets 'under' the coating.
>
> The simplest rust preventer is to simply boil the chain in hot water
> until it turns black/dark (with a can of coke or pepsi added to the
> mix).... works on rust prone tools and parts too.
>
> You really shouldnt use acids (other than phosphoric) to clean the
> chain because it removes metal, makes the chain weaker and promotes
> more rust ( unless you quickly form a ferrous oxide coating.).
> ;-)
>
> In article <jfMnd.644523$8_6.52704@attbi_s04>, Lon
> <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > hrncir proclaimed:
> >
> > > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> > > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
> >
> > There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
> > epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
> > tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
> > Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
used it on all the washers I needed as spacers to set my fiberglass body
on nice and straight. Not one washer is showing any sign of rust.
The stuff is also supposed to be sacrificial so even if a wear spot
occurs it is supposed to protect it.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Rich Hampel wrote:
>
> For best anti-rust: take it to a 'galvinizing' shop .... they will
> blast it and then hot dip the chain in molten zinc. This is not going
> to be cheap and if the chain is not HT Proof, BBB, or HT chain, the
> value of the chain isnt worth it.
>
> For short term rust prevention, boil the chain in hot water for approx.
> an hour. If you add a bit of phosphoric acid (coke or pepsi contains
> phosphoric) the reaction will be faster. Just boil the chain until it
> turns black or dark in color. Other rust reducers such as 'Naval
> Jelly' or "Ospho" will also do the trick. What you are doing with
> this method is 'blueing' the chain .... converting the rust from ferric
> oxide to ferrous oxide ..... ferrous oxide is the 'good' rust that
> helps prevent further rust (of the ferric variety).
>
> Coating the chain with paint or epoxy or vinyl, etc. is the WORST thing
> to do as 'when' you break the coating the ferric rust will be enhanced
> by any water that gets 'under' the coating.
>
> The simplest rust preventer is to simply boil the chain in hot water
> until it turns black/dark (with a can of coke or pepsi added to the
> mix).... works on rust prone tools and parts too.
>
> You really shouldnt use acids (other than phosphoric) to clean the
> chain because it removes metal, makes the chain weaker and promotes
> more rust ( unless you quickly form a ferrous oxide coating.).
> ;-)
>
> In article <jfMnd.644523$8_6.52704@attbi_s04>, Lon
> <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > hrncir proclaimed:
> >
> > > I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool
> > > acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat
> > > it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't
> > > work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work?
> >
> > There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an
> > epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and
> > tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust.
> > Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.