Roy J

A steering stablizier on the drag link doesn't do all that much
good. DW is where the two tires start oscillating between them
selves, the tie rod is the connecting link.

Terry Jeffrey wrote:

> It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything else on the
> front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is new and
> tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & ends, drag
> link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and tight. I just
> put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October.
>
> I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. I'll have
> the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it up if
> needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in that same
> damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first thought. If she
> passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old steering
> stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to the drag
> link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod instead
> since it is "closer" to the steering.
>
> Thanks for all the comments and info.
>
> Terry
> 92YJ
>
>
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com...
>
>>"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>>news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net...
>>Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for
>>every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a
>>while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the
>>NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to
>>REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or
>>tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some
>>front end work.
>>
>>
>>I'll second that diagnosis.
>>
>>I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no DW
>>experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect the ball
>>joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life.
>>
>>DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, and it
>>takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same direction.
>
> During
>
>>the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts looking for the
>>front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to where the
>>first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire then heads
>>back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore because it has
>>decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral downward
>
> from
>
>>there.
>>
>>Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not adjustable in a
>>leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, but the idea
>>is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it positions the
>>spring perches, and the angle normally does not require adjustment as much
>>as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle on your
>
> YJ
>
>>is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other issues.
>
> Ball
>
>>joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is the one
>
> that
>
>>you will most likely need to replace, and you should give serious
>>consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes the test
>
> for
>
>>a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off the ground
>
> and
>
>>1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the bottom, and
>
> 2.)
>
>>use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move in either
>>of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering wheel back
>
> and
>
>>forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play in the tie
>>rod ends.
>>
>>If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of the tie
>
> rod
>
>>ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with replacing the
>>steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the ball joints
>>or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all like-parts and the
>>steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only necessary
>>(MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper ball joints
>>don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often.
>>
>
>
>

Roy J

A steering stablizier on the drag link doesn't do all that much
good. DW is where the two tires start oscillating between them
selves, the tie rod is the connecting link.

Terry Jeffrey wrote:

> It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything else on the
> front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is new and
> tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & ends, drag
> link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and tight. I just
> put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October.
>
> I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. I'll have
> the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it up if
> needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in that same
> damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first thought. If she
> passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old steering
> stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to the drag
> link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod instead
> since it is "closer" to the steering.
>
> Thanks for all the comments and info.
>
> Terry
> 92YJ
>
>
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com...
>
>>"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>>news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net...
>>Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for
>>every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a
>>while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the
>>NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to
>>REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or
>>tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some
>>front end work.
>>
>>
>>I'll second that diagnosis.
>>
>>I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no DW
>>experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect the ball
>>joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life.
>>
>>DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, and it
>>takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same direction.
>
> During
>
>>the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts looking for the
>>front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to where the
>>first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire then heads
>>back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore because it has
>>decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral downward
>
> from
>
>>there.
>>
>>Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not adjustable in a
>>leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, but the idea
>>is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it positions the
>>spring perches, and the angle normally does not require adjustment as much
>>as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle on your
>
> YJ
>
>>is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other issues.
>
> Ball
>
>>joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is the one
>
> that
>
>>you will most likely need to replace, and you should give serious
>>consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes the test
>
> for
>
>>a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off the ground
>
> and
>
>>1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the bottom, and
>
> 2.)
>
>>use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move in either
>>of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering wheel back
>
> and
>
>>forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play in the tie
>>rod ends.
>>
>>If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of the tie
>
> rod
>
>>ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with replacing the
>>steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the ball joints
>>or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all like-parts and the
>>steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only necessary
>>(MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper ball joints
>>don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often.
>>
>
>
>

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

The original Poster said it was a "Death Wobble" of course no one
here, addressed that fact, because we all knew is was a shimmy he was
describing. Why didn't you?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Roy J wrote:
>
> If a seasoned mechanic knows that a certain symptom commonly has
> a serious (expensive or dangerous) underlying cause, the good
> mechanic will always search for the possible/probable cause
> rather than just apply a band aid fix. For said seasoned mechanic
> to suggest to a neophyte that the fix is easy with a band aid is
> rubbish. For something as serious as Death Wobble, it is highly
> undethical to not point out how close to the edge the vehicle MAY
> be.
>
> Most of the newbys that read or post on RAMJ+W have read or heard
> about Death Wobble, they think it is an interesting name, and
> laugh it off. Anyone that has experienced it on a ride from 60mph
> to 10 or 15 mph has a different view of it.
>
> I have personally spent way to much time chasing down various
> thumps, bumps, and loose joints that only manifested themselves
> in very strange directions or on seemingly unrelated parts. They
> can be very hard to find until it almost falls apart in your
> hand. I'm a big boy and have done this before. But newbys expect
> and need more than the one liner.
>
> If your original advice had been to "replace the stabilzier but
> be sure to check for usual culprits of loose tie rod ends, ball
> joints, alignment, and tire balance" we would not be having this
> discussion. If you want to come off as an expert, give out advice
> that won't get someone killed down the line.

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

The original Poster said it was a "Death Wobble" of course no one
here, addressed that fact, because we all knew is was a shimmy he was
describing. Why didn't you?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Roy J wrote:
>
> If a seasoned mechanic knows that a certain symptom commonly has
> a serious (expensive or dangerous) underlying cause, the good
> mechanic will always search for the possible/probable cause
> rather than just apply a band aid fix. For said seasoned mechanic
> to suggest to a neophyte that the fix is easy with a band aid is
> rubbish. For something as serious as Death Wobble, it is highly
> undethical to not point out how close to the edge the vehicle MAY
> be.
>
> Most of the newbys that read or post on RAMJ+W have read or heard
> about Death Wobble, they think it is an interesting name, and
> laugh it off. Anyone that has experienced it on a ride from 60mph
> to 10 or 15 mph has a different view of it.
>
> I have personally spent way to much time chasing down various
> thumps, bumps, and loose joints that only manifested themselves
> in very strange directions or on seemingly unrelated parts. They
> can be very hard to find until it almost falls apart in your
> hand. I'm a big boy and have done this before. But newbys expect
> and need more than the one liner.
>
> If your original advice had been to "replace the stabilzier but
> be sure to check for usual culprits of loose tie rod ends, ball
> joints, alignment, and tire balance" we would not be having this
> discussion. If you want to come off as an expert, give out advice
> that won't get someone killed down the line.

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

The original Poster said it was a "Death Wobble" of course no one
here, addressed that fact, because we all knew is was a shimmy he was
describing. Why didn't you?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Roy J wrote:
>
> If a seasoned mechanic knows that a certain symptom commonly has
> a serious (expensive or dangerous) underlying cause, the good
> mechanic will always search for the possible/probable cause
> rather than just apply a band aid fix. For said seasoned mechanic
> to suggest to a neophyte that the fix is easy with a band aid is
> rubbish. For something as serious as Death Wobble, it is highly
> undethical to not point out how close to the edge the vehicle MAY
> be.
>
> Most of the newbys that read or post on RAMJ+W have read or heard
> about Death Wobble, they think it is an interesting name, and
> laugh it off. Anyone that has experienced it on a ride from 60mph
> to 10 or 15 mph has a different view of it.
>
> I have personally spent way to much time chasing down various
> thumps, bumps, and loose joints that only manifested themselves
> in very strange directions or on seemingly unrelated parts. They
> can be very hard to find until it almost falls apart in your
> hand. I'm a big boy and have done this before. But newbys expect
> and need more than the one liner.
>
> If your original advice had been to "replace the stabilzier but
> be sure to check for usual culprits of loose tie rod ends, ball
> joints, alignment, and tire balance" we would not be having this
> discussion. If you want to come off as an expert, give out advice
> that won't get someone killed down the line.

Roy J

Quit trying to wiggle out of the fact that you give a flippant
answer to the orignal question that could have gotten the OP in
serious trouble. What I thought or knew was immaterial.

If you wish to continue this "discussion" in this public forum
you may. I will continue to repond that your original reply was
incomplete and could have gotten the OP in trouble.

L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> The original Poster said it was a "Death Wobble" of course no one
> here, addressed that fact, because we all knew is was a shimmy he was
> describing. Why didn't you?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>If a seasoned mechanic knows that a certain symptom commonly has
>>a serious (expensive or dangerous) underlying cause, the good
>>mechanic will always search for the possible/probable cause
>>rather than just apply a band aid fix. For said seasoned mechanic
>>to suggest to a neophyte that the fix is easy with a band aid is
>>rubbish. For something as serious as Death Wobble, it is highly
>>undethical to not point out how close to the edge the vehicle MAY
>>be.
>>
>>Most of the newbys that read or post on RAMJ+W have read or heard
>>about Death Wobble, they think it is an interesting name, and
>>laugh it off. Anyone that has experienced it on a ride from 60mph
>>to 10 or 15 mph has a different view of it.
>>
>>I have personally spent way to much time chasing down various
>>thumps, bumps, and loose joints that only manifested themselves
>>in very strange directions or on seemingly unrelated parts. They
>>can be very hard to find until it almost falls apart in your
>>hand. I'm a big boy and have done this before. But newbys expect
>>and need more than the one liner.
>>
>>If your original advice had been to "replace the stabilzier but
>>be sure to check for usual culprits of loose tie rod ends, ball
>>joints, alignment, and tire balance" we would not be having this
>>discussion. If you want to come off as an expert, give out advice
>>that won't get someone killed down the line.

Roy J

Quit trying to wiggle out of the fact that you give a flippant
answer to the orignal question that could have gotten the OP in
serious trouble. What I thought or knew was immaterial.

If you wish to continue this "discussion" in this public forum
you may. I will continue to repond that your original reply was
incomplete and could have gotten the OP in trouble.

L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> The original Poster said it was a "Death Wobble" of course no one
> here, addressed that fact, because we all knew is was a shimmy he was
> describing. Why didn't you?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>If a seasoned mechanic knows that a certain symptom commonly has
>>a serious (expensive or dangerous) underlying cause, the good
>>mechanic will always search for the possible/probable cause
>>rather than just apply a band aid fix. For said seasoned mechanic
>>to suggest to a neophyte that the fix is easy with a band aid is
>>rubbish. For something as serious as Death Wobble, it is highly
>>undethical to not point out how close to the edge the vehicle MAY
>>be.
>>
>>Most of the newbys that read or post on RAMJ+W have read or heard
>>about Death Wobble, they think it is an interesting name, and
>>laugh it off. Anyone that has experienced it on a ride from 60mph
>>to 10 or 15 mph has a different view of it.
>>
>>I have personally spent way to much time chasing down various
>>thumps, bumps, and loose joints that only manifested themselves
>>in very strange directions or on seemingly unrelated parts. They
>>can be very hard to find until it almost falls apart in your
>>hand. I'm a big boy and have done this before. But newbys expect
>>and need more than the one liner.
>>
>>If your original advice had been to "replace the stabilzier but
>>be sure to check for usual culprits of loose tie rod ends, ball
>>joints, alignment, and tire balance" we would not be having this
>>discussion. If you want to come off as an expert, give out advice
>>that won't get someone killed down the line.

Roy J

Quit trying to wiggle out of the fact that you give a flippant
answer to the orignal question that could have gotten the OP in
serious trouble. What I thought or knew was immaterial.

If you wish to continue this "discussion" in this public forum
you may. I will continue to repond that your original reply was
incomplete and could have gotten the OP in trouble.

L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> The original Poster said it was a "Death Wobble" of course no one
> here, addressed that fact, because we all knew is was a shimmy he was
> describing. Why didn't you?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>If a seasoned mechanic knows that a certain symptom commonly has
>>a serious (expensive or dangerous) underlying cause, the good
>>mechanic will always search for the possible/probable cause
>>rather than just apply a band aid fix. For said seasoned mechanic
>>to suggest to a neophyte that the fix is easy with a band aid is
>>rubbish. For something as serious as Death Wobble, it is highly
>>undethical to not point out how close to the edge the vehicle MAY
>>be.
>>
>>Most of the newbys that read or post on RAMJ+W have read or heard
>>about Death Wobble, they think it is an interesting name, and
>>laugh it off. Anyone that has experienced it on a ride from 60mph
>>to 10 or 15 mph has a different view of it.
>>
>>I have personally spent way to much time chasing down various
>>thumps, bumps, and loose joints that only manifested themselves
>>in very strange directions or on seemingly unrelated parts. They
>>can be very hard to find until it almost falls apart in your
>>hand. I'm a big boy and have done this before. But newbys expect
>>and need more than the one liner.
>>
>>If your original advice had been to "replace the stabilzier but
>>be sure to check for usual culprits of loose tie rod ends, ball
>>joints, alignment, and tire balance" we would not be having this
>>discussion. If you want to come off as an expert, give out advice
>>that won't get someone killed down the line.

Terry Jeffrey

I will get under it and closely investigate everything in the morning. I'm
going to do Jeff's tests and also attach the steering stabilizer onto the
tie rod instead of the drag link. I sure hope moving it will correct the
problem. First glance the stabilizer appears to still be good. I can't
imagine there are any loose or worn out parts already on the front-end,
being that everything is practically new. But of course stranger things
have happened.

You are right. DW is nothing to take lightly. It gets the pucker factor up
in a hurry!

Terry.



"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:h5AZb.206$uJ.68665@news.uswest.net...
> A steering stablizier on the drag link doesn't do all that much
> good. DW is where the two tires start oscillating between them
> selves, the tie rod is the connecting link.
>
> Terry Jeffrey wrote:
>
> > It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything else on
the
> > front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is new
and
> > tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & ends, drag
> > link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and tight. I
just
> > put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October.
> >
> > I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. I'll
have
> > the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it up if
> > needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in that
same
> > damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first thought. If
she
> > passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old
steering
> > stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to the
drag
> > link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod
instead
> > since it is "closer" to the steering.
> >
> > Thanks for all the comments and info.
> >
> > Terry
> > 92YJ
> >
> >
> >
> > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com...
> >
> >>"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> >>news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net...
> >>Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for
> >>every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a
> >>while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the
> >>NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to
> >>REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or
> >>tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some
> >>front end work.
> >>
> >>
> >>I'll second that diagnosis.
> >>
> >>I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no DW
> >>experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect the
ball
> >>joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life.
> >>
> >>DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, and it
> >>takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same direction.
> >
> > During
> >
> >>the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts looking for
the
> >>front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to where the
> >>first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire then
heads
> >>back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore because it
has
> >>decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral downward
> >
> > from
> >
> >>there.
> >>
> >>Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not adjustable in a
> >>leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, but the
idea
> >>is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it positions
the
> >>spring perches, and the angle normally does not require adjustment as
much
> >>as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle on your
> >
> > YJ
> >
> >>is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other issues.
> >
> > Ball
> >
> >>joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is the one
> >
> > that
> >
> >>you will most likely need to replace, and you should give serious
> >>consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes the test
> >
> > for
> >
> >>a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off the ground
> >
> > and
> >
> >>1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the bottom, and
> >
> > 2.)
> >
> >>use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move in
either
> >>of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering wheel back
> >
> > and
> >
> >>forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play in the
tie
> >>rod ends.
> >>
> >>If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of the tie
> >
> > rod
> >
> >>ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with replacing the
> >>steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the ball
joints
> >>or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all like-parts and
the
> >>steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only
necessary
> >>(MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper ball
joints
> >>don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often.
> >>
> >
> >
> >

Terry Jeffrey

I will get under it and closely investigate everything in the morning. I'm
going to do Jeff's tests and also attach the steering stabilizer onto the
tie rod instead of the drag link. I sure hope moving it will correct the
problem. First glance the stabilizer appears to still be good. I can't
imagine there are any loose or worn out parts already on the front-end,
being that everything is practically new. But of course stranger things
have happened.

You are right. DW is nothing to take lightly. It gets the pucker factor up
in a hurry!

Terry.



"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:h5AZb.206$uJ.68665@news.uswest.net...
> A steering stablizier on the drag link doesn't do all that much
> good. DW is where the two tires start oscillating between them
> selves, the tie rod is the connecting link.
>
> Terry Jeffrey wrote:
>
> > It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything else on
the
> > front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is new
and
> > tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & ends, drag
> > link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and tight. I
just
> > put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October.
> >
> > I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. I'll
have
> > the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it up if
> > needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in that
same
> > damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first thought. If
she
> > passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old
steering
> > stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to the
drag
> > link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod
instead
> > since it is "closer" to the steering.
> >
> > Thanks for all the comments and info.
> >
> > Terry
> > 92YJ
> >
> >
> >
> > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com...
> >
> >>"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> >>news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net...
> >>Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for
> >>every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a
> >>while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the
> >>NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to
> >>REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or
> >>tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some
> >>front end work.
> >>
> >>
> >>I'll second that diagnosis.
> >>
> >>I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no DW
> >>experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect the
ball
> >>joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life.
> >>
> >>DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, and it
> >>takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same direction.
> >
> > During
> >
> >>the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts looking for
the
> >>front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to where the
> >>first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire then
heads
> >>back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore because it
has
> >>decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral downward
> >
> > from
> >
> >>there.
> >>
> >>Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not adjustable in a
> >>leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, but the
idea
> >>is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it positions
the
> >>spring perches, and the angle normally does not require adjustment as
much
> >>as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle on your
> >
> > YJ
> >
> >>is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other issues.
> >
> > Ball
> >
> >>joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is the one
> >
> > that
> >
> >>you will most likely need to replace, and you should give serious
> >>consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes the test
> >
> > for
> >
> >>a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off the ground
> >
> > and
> >
> >>1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the bottom, and
> >
> > 2.)
> >
> >>use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move in
either
> >>of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering wheel back
> >
> > and
> >
> >>forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play in the
tie
> >>rod ends.
> >>
> >>If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of the tie
> >
> > rod
> >
> >>ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with replacing the
> >>steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the ball
joints
> >>or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all like-parts and
the
> >>steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only
necessary
> >>(MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper ball
joints
> >>don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often.
> >>
> >
> >
> >