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Re: A case of death wobble today
Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly
when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to find out - get it checked. About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears so many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and mechanics. But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put the track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on the frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing in on the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go hit that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in the thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, and swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. Terry. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > Mike > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by Dynatrac. > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is alright, > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people who have > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. The > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front with > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the track > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. I've > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it comes > > to my rig. > > > > Regards, > > Terry. > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:4038C4C8.9F7976B4@sympatico.ca... > > > He has a custom front end that sounds like it wasn't built properly. > > > > > > The builder might not have known how to set the caster so just guessed. > > > He certainly didn't know how to put a steering stabilizer shock on in > > > the correct place so that implies he guessed at everything.... > > > > > > Mike > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > > > Think of how the forks on a motorcycle are raked. A chopper goes > > straighat > > > > ahead really good, but can be a bitch to turn, and a racing bike can > > turn on > > > > a dime, but the steering is very twitchy. The most significant > > difference in > > > > these examples is the rake of the forks, and this rake is similar to the > > > > Caster angle. > > > > > > > > As I said earlier, caster typically does not play a large role in the > > > > adjustments of the front end geometry because it is pretty much set > > during > > > > manufacturing of the axle. The spring perches define the caster angle. > > > > Assuming the axle is the right one, the caster angle should be right. Of > > > > course, with custom modifications - lift - the caster angle can change > > > > enough to become a player in DW. > > > > > > > > Caster angle is the imaginary line through the upper and lower ball > > joints, > > > > and the center of the spindle. Properly set, the caster angle should be > > > > about 7° towards the rear of the vehicle. That is, the upper ball joint > > > > should trail the lower by about 7°. Perhaps the number is a little bit > > > > different in your case, but greater angles will be more stable than > > lesser > > > > angles. When the angle drops to about 4° or less, then the tires will > > search > > > > for the straight ahead position, and this sets up the DW symptoms. There > > is > > > > an easy test for Caster angle ... Go to an open area and make a Uturn, > > or a > > > > manuver that simulates what you might do when backing from a parking > > stall. > > > > Turn the steering wheel fully to one stop, then begin going and see if > > the > > > > wheel returns to center on its own, or if it remains in Turning Mode and > > > > requires you to physically turn back to center. If you have to drive it > > back > > > > to straight ahead, then your caster is not great enough, but if it wants > > to > > > > go to center on its own, then the caster is probably OK. > > > > > > > > In my motorcycle analogy, there are other geometry forces at play, so > > the > > > > analogy breaks down pretty quickly, but in general terms, it works > > pretty > > > > well. I am certain that my analogy will be corrected, but it works for > > now. > > > > > > > > My FSM says the spec for Caster angle is 6°. > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > news:a5SZb.4126$aT1.454@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > > > > The ball joints appear to be good. I did the push-pull-raised-tire > > test > > > > and > > > > > it checked out Ok. All the rod ends are tight and lubed. I'll get > > the > > > > > caster checked out next week. Explain, if you will, why caster would > > be a > > > > > player in DW. This could be my problem. If the caster angle is off, > > > > > wouldn't this only cause the vehicle to pull to one side or the other? > > > > > > > > > > It was suggested to move the steering stabilizer from the drag link to > > the > > > > > tie rod. When I did this, I still got the same DW. I thought I felt > > a > > > > > little air in the stabilizer at the extended end while testing it, and > > > > will > > > > > replace it as soon as I can find one. > > > > > > > > > > Your track bar comment is noted. I'd like to leave it off all > > together > > > > > because real estate up front is a premium right now with the Dana60. > > But > > > > > will put it back on nice and tight and put the DW to the test again. > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again, > > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message > > > > > news:103foc9kj445236@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > If all of that stuff is new, I would not think the steering > > stabalizer > > > > > would > > > > > > be so significant. Did you attempt the tests that I described? (If I > > > > > > described something incorrectly, did you try what might have been > > > > > suggested > > > > > > to correct me?) > > > > > > > > > > > > If you suspect the track bar is worn, and causing a problem with > > > > > looseness, > > > > > > then removing the trackbar altogether is not much of a confirmation > > > > test. > > > > > If > > > > > > yo had no trackbar, and complained of DW, then put the bar on to see > > if > > > > > the > > > > > > DW went away, then you would have a reasonable diagnostic test. > > Taking > > > > the > > > > > > trackbar off is the same thing as having one on that had worn > > bushings. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > > news:nCwZb.3004$aT1.1407@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > > > > > > > It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything > > else > > > > on > > > > > > the > > > > > > > front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is > > new > > > > > and > > > > > > > tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & > > ends, > > > > drag > > > > > > > link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and > > tight. > > > > I > > > > > > just > > > > > > > put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. > > > > I'll > > > > > > have > > > > > > > the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it > > up if > > > > > > > needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in > > that > > > > > same > > > > > > > damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first > > thought. > > > > If > > > > > > she > > > > > > > passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old > > > > > > steering > > > > > > > stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to > > the > > > > > > drag > > > > > > > link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod > > > > > instead > > > > > > > since it is "closer" to the steering. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for all the comments and info. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Terry > > > > > > > 92YJ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > > > > > news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message > > > > > > > > news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net... > > > > > > > > Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for > > > > > > > > every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a > > > > > > > > while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the > > > > > > > > NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to > > > > > > > > REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or > > > > > > > > tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some > > > > > > > > front end work. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll second that diagnosis. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no > > DW > > > > > > > > experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect > > the > > > > > > ball > > > > > > > > joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, > > and > > > > > it > > > > > > > > takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same > > > > direction. > > > > > > > During > > > > > > > > the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts > > looking > > > > for > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to > > where > > > > > the > > > > > > > > first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire > > then > > > > > > heads > > > > > > > > back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore > > because > > > > it > > > > > > has > > > > > > > > decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral > > > > > downward > > > > > > > from > > > > > > > > there. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not > > adjustable > > > > in > > > > > a > > > > > > > > leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, > > but > > > > the > > > > > > idea > > > > > > > > is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it > > > > positions > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > spring perches, and the angle normally does not require > > adjustment > > > > as > > > > > > much > > > > > > > > as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle > > on > > > > > your > > > > > > > YJ > > > > > > > > is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other > > > > > issues. > > > > > > > Ball > > > > > > > > joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is > > the > > > > one > > > > > > > that > > > > > > > > you will most likely need to replace, and you should give > > serious > > > > > > > > consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes > > the > > > > > test > > > > > > > for > > > > > > > > a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off > > the > > > > > ground > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the > > bottom, > > > > > and > > > > > > > 2.) > > > > > > > > use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move > > in > > > > > > either > > > > > > > > of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering > > wheel > > > > > back > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play > > in > > > > the > > > > > > tie > > > > > > > > rod ends. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of > > the > > > > > tie > > > > > > > rod > > > > > > > > ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with > > replacing > > > > the > > > > > > > > steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the > > ball > > > > > > joints > > > > > > > > or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all > > like-parts > > > > and > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only > > > > > > necessary > > > > > > > > (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper > > ball > > > > > > joints > > > > > > > > don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Yep. I'll find out this week if the caster is right.
Thanks Roy. Terry. "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message news:vH4_b.32$pT1.24075@news.uswest.net... I'm with Mike here. I'd certainly take a look at the caster. With all the new parts, it should not go into DW unless SOMETHING is wrong. I've usually found that when you get one of these kind of problems, your assumption that something was done right doesn't hold up. And that you don't find the flaw until you have looked at if at four times. So maybe it's back to the rack, using a crowbar on EVERYTHING. Mike Romain wrote: > He has a custom front end that sounds like it wasn't built properly. > > The builder might not have known how to set the caster so just guessed. > He certainly didn't know how to put a steering stabilizer shock on in > the correct place so that implies he guessed at everything.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > CRWLR wrote: > >>Think of how the forks on a motorcycle are raked. A chopper goes straighat >>ahead really good, but can be a bitch to turn, and a racing bike can turn on >>a dime, but the steering is very twitchy. The most significant difference in >>these examples is the rake of the forks, and this rake is similar to the >>Caster angle. >> >>As I said earlier, caster typically does not play a large role in the >>adjustments of the front end geometry because it is pretty much set during >>manufacturing of the axle. The spring perches define the caster angle. >>Assuming the axle is the right one, the caster angle should be right. Of >>course, with custom modifications - lift - the caster angle can change >>enough to become a player in DW. >> >>Caster angle is the imaginary line through the upper and lower ball joints, >>and the center of the spindle. Properly set, the caster angle should be >>about 7° towards the rear of the vehicle. That is, the upper ball joint >>should trail the lower by about 7°. Perhaps the number is a little bit >>different in your case, but greater angles will be more stable than lesser >>angles. When the angle drops to about 4° or less, then the tires will search >>for the straight ahead position, and this sets up the DW symptoms. There is >>an easy test for Caster angle ... Go to an open area and make a Uturn, or a >>manuver that simulates what you might do when backing from a parking stall. >>Turn the steering wheel fully to one stop, then begin going and see if the >>wheel returns to center on its own, or if it remains in Turning Mode and >>requires you to physically turn back to center. If you have to drive it back >>to straight ahead, then your caster is not great enough, but if it wants to >>go to center on its own, then the caster is probably OK. >> >>In my motorcycle analogy, there are other geometry forces at play, so the >>analogy breaks down pretty quickly, but in general terms, it works pretty >>well. I am certain that my analogy will be corrected, but it works for now. >> >>My FSM says the spec for Caster angle is 6°. >> >>"Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>news:a5SZb.4126$aT1.454@newsread1.news.pas.earth link.net... >> >>>The ball joints appear to be good. I did the push-pull-raised-tire test >> >>and >> >>>it checked out Ok. All the rod ends are tight and lubed. I'll get the >>>caster checked out next week. Explain, if you will, why caster would be a >>>player in DW. This could be my problem. If the caster angle is off, >>>wouldn't this only cause the vehicle to pull to one side or the other? >>> >>>It was suggested to move the steering stabilizer from the drag link to the >>>tie rod. When I did this, I still got the same DW. I thought I felt a >>>little air in the stabilizer at the extended end while testing it, and >> >>will >> >>>replace it as soon as I can find one. >>> >>>Your track bar comment is noted. I'd like to leave it off all together >>>because real estate up front is a premium right now with the Dana60. But >>>will put it back on nice and tight and put the DW to the test again. >>> >>>Thanks again, >>>Terry. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>"CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message >>>news:103foc9kj445236@corp.supernews.com... >>> >>>>If all of that stuff is new, I would not think the steering stabalizer >>> >>>would >>> >>>>be so significant. Did you attempt the tests that I described? (If I >>>>described something incorrectly, did you try what might have been >>> >>>suggested >>> >>>>to correct me?) >>>> >>>>If you suspect the track bar is worn, and causing a problem with >>> >>>looseness, >>> >>>>then removing the trackbar altogether is not much of a confirmation >> >>test. >> >>>If >>> >>>>yo had no trackbar, and complained of DW, then put the bar on to see if >>> >>>the >>> >>>>DW went away, then you would have a reasonable diagnostic test. Taking >> >>the >> >>>>trackbar off is the same thing as having one on that had worn bushings. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>"Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>news:nCwZb.3004$aT1.1407@newsread1.news.pas.ea rthlink.net... >>>> >>>>>It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything else >> >>on >> >>>>the >>>> >>>>>front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is new >>> >>>and >>> >>>>>tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & ends, >> >>drag >> >>>>>link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and tight. >> >>I >> >>>>just >>>> >>>>>put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October. >>>>> >>>>>I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. >> >>I'll >> >>>>have >>>> >>>>>the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it up if >>>>>needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in that >>> >>>same >>> >>>>>damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first thought. >> >>If >> >>>>she >>>> >>>>>passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old >>>> >>>>steering >>>> >>>>>stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to the >>>> >>>>drag >>>> >>>>>link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod >>> >>>instead >>> >>>>>since it is "closer" to the steering. >>>>> >>>>>Thanks for all the comments and info. >>>>> >>>>>Terry >>>>>92YJ >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message >>>>>news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com... >>>>> >>>>>>"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message >>>>>>news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net... >>>>>>Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for >>>>>>every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a >>>>>>while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the >>>>>>NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to >>>>>>REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or >>>>>>tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some >>>>>>front end work. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>I'll second that diagnosis. >>>>>> >>>>>>I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no DW >>>>>>experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect the >>>> >>>>ball >>>> >>>>>>joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life. >>>>>> >>>>>>DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, and >>> >>>it >>> >>>>>>takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same >> >>direction. >> >>>>>During >>>>> >>>>>>the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts looking >> >>for >> >>>>the >>>> >>>>>>front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to where >>> >>>the >>> >>>>>>first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire then >>>> >>>>heads >>>> >>>>>>back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore because >> >>it >> >>>>has >>>> >>>>>>decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral >>> >>>downward >>> >>>>>from >>>>> >>>>>>there. >>>>>> >>>>>>Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not adjustable >> >>in >> >>>a >>> >>>>>>leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, but >> >>the >> >>>>idea >>>> >>>>>>is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it >> >>positions >> >>>>the >>>> >>>>>>spring perches, and the angle normally does not require adjustment >> >>as >> >>>>much >>>> >>>>>>as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle on >>> >>>your >>> >>>>>YJ >>>>> >>>>>>is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other >>> >>>issues. >>> >>>>>Ball >>>>> >>>>>>joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is the >> >>one >> >>>>>that >>>>> >>>>>>you will most likely need to replace, and you should give serious >>>>>>consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes the >>> >>>test >>> >>>>>for >>>>> >>>>>>a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off the >>> >>>ground >>> >>>>>and >>>>> >>>>>>1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the bottom, >>> >>>and >>> >>>>>2.) >>>>> >>>>>>use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move in >>>> >>>>either >>>> >>>>>>of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering wheel >>> >>>back >>> >>>>>and >>>>> >>>>>>forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play in >> >>the >> >>>>tie >>>> >>>>>>rod ends. >>>>>> >>>>>>If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of the >>> >>>tie >>> >>>>>rod >>>>> >>>>>>ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with replacing >> >>the >> >>>>>>steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the ball >>>> >>>>joints >>>> >>>>>>or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all like-parts >> >>and >> >>>>the >>>> >>>>>>steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only >>>> >>>>necessary >>>> >>>>>>(MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper ball >>>> >>>>joints >>>> >>>>>>don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often. >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Yep. I'll find out this week if the caster is right.
Thanks Roy. Terry. "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message news:vH4_b.32$pT1.24075@news.uswest.net... I'm with Mike here. I'd certainly take a look at the caster. With all the new parts, it should not go into DW unless SOMETHING is wrong. I've usually found that when you get one of these kind of problems, your assumption that something was done right doesn't hold up. And that you don't find the flaw until you have looked at if at four times. So maybe it's back to the rack, using a crowbar on EVERYTHING. Mike Romain wrote: > He has a custom front end that sounds like it wasn't built properly. > > The builder might not have known how to set the caster so just guessed. > He certainly didn't know how to put a steering stabilizer shock on in > the correct place so that implies he guessed at everything.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > CRWLR wrote: > >>Think of how the forks on a motorcycle are raked. A chopper goes straighat >>ahead really good, but can be a bitch to turn, and a racing bike can turn on >>a dime, but the steering is very twitchy. The most significant difference in >>these examples is the rake of the forks, and this rake is similar to the >>Caster angle. >> >>As I said earlier, caster typically does not play a large role in the >>adjustments of the front end geometry because it is pretty much set during >>manufacturing of the axle. The spring perches define the caster angle. >>Assuming the axle is the right one, the caster angle should be right. Of >>course, with custom modifications - lift - the caster angle can change >>enough to become a player in DW. >> >>Caster angle is the imaginary line through the upper and lower ball joints, >>and the center of the spindle. Properly set, the caster angle should be >>about 7° towards the rear of the vehicle. That is, the upper ball joint >>should trail the lower by about 7°. Perhaps the number is a little bit >>different in your case, but greater angles will be more stable than lesser >>angles. When the angle drops to about 4° or less, then the tires will search >>for the straight ahead position, and this sets up the DW symptoms. There is >>an easy test for Caster angle ... Go to an open area and make a Uturn, or a >>manuver that simulates what you might do when backing from a parking stall. >>Turn the steering wheel fully to one stop, then begin going and see if the >>wheel returns to center on its own, or if it remains in Turning Mode and >>requires you to physically turn back to center. If you have to drive it back >>to straight ahead, then your caster is not great enough, but if it wants to >>go to center on its own, then the caster is probably OK. >> >>In my motorcycle analogy, there are other geometry forces at play, so the >>analogy breaks down pretty quickly, but in general terms, it works pretty >>well. I am certain that my analogy will be corrected, but it works for now. >> >>My FSM says the spec for Caster angle is 6°. >> >>"Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>news:a5SZb.4126$aT1.454@newsread1.news.pas.earth link.net... >> >>>The ball joints appear to be good. I did the push-pull-raised-tire test >> >>and >> >>>it checked out Ok. All the rod ends are tight and lubed. I'll get the >>>caster checked out next week. Explain, if you will, why caster would be a >>>player in DW. This could be my problem. If the caster angle is off, >>>wouldn't this only cause the vehicle to pull to one side or the other? >>> >>>It was suggested to move the steering stabilizer from the drag link to the >>>tie rod. When I did this, I still got the same DW. I thought I felt a >>>little air in the stabilizer at the extended end while testing it, and >> >>will >> >>>replace it as soon as I can find one. >>> >>>Your track bar comment is noted. I'd like to leave it off all together >>>because real estate up front is a premium right now with the Dana60. But >>>will put it back on nice and tight and put the DW to the test again. >>> >>>Thanks again, >>>Terry. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>"CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message >>>news:103foc9kj445236@corp.supernews.com... >>> >>>>If all of that stuff is new, I would not think the steering stabalizer >>> >>>would >>> >>>>be so significant. Did you attempt the tests that I described? (If I >>>>described something incorrectly, did you try what might have been >>> >>>suggested >>> >>>>to correct me?) >>>> >>>>If you suspect the track bar is worn, and causing a problem with >>> >>>looseness, >>> >>>>then removing the trackbar altogether is not much of a confirmation >> >>test. >> >>>If >>> >>>>yo had no trackbar, and complained of DW, then put the bar on to see if >>> >>>the >>> >>>>DW went away, then you would have a reasonable diagnostic test. Taking >> >>the >> >>>>trackbar off is the same thing as having one on that had worn bushings. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>"Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>news:nCwZb.3004$aT1.1407@newsread1.news.pas.ea rthlink.net... >>>> >>>>>It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything else >> >>on >> >>>>the >>>> >>>>>front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is new >>> >>>and >>> >>>>>tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & ends, >> >>drag >> >>>>>link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and tight. >> >>I >> >>>>just >>>> >>>>>put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October. >>>>> >>>>>I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. >> >>I'll >> >>>>have >>>> >>>>>the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it up if >>>>>needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in that >>> >>>same >>> >>>>>damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first thought. >> >>If >> >>>>she >>>> >>>>>passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old >>>> >>>>steering >>>> >>>>>stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to the >>>> >>>>drag >>>> >>>>>link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod >>> >>>instead >>> >>>>>since it is "closer" to the steering. >>>>> >>>>>Thanks for all the comments and info. >>>>> >>>>>Terry >>>>>92YJ >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message >>>>>news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com... >>>>> >>>>>>"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message >>>>>>news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net... >>>>>>Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for >>>>>>every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a >>>>>>while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the >>>>>>NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to >>>>>>REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or >>>>>>tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some >>>>>>front end work. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>I'll second that diagnosis. >>>>>> >>>>>>I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no DW >>>>>>experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect the >>>> >>>>ball >>>> >>>>>>joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life. >>>>>> >>>>>>DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, and >>> >>>it >>> >>>>>>takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same >> >>direction. >> >>>>>During >>>>> >>>>>>the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts looking >> >>for >> >>>>the >>>> >>>>>>front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to where >>> >>>the >>> >>>>>>first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire then >>>> >>>>heads >>>> >>>>>>back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore because >> >>it >> >>>>has >>>> >>>>>>decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral >>> >>>downward >>> >>>>>from >>>>> >>>>>>there. >>>>>> >>>>>>Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not adjustable >> >>in >> >>>a >>> >>>>>>leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, but >> >>the >> >>>>idea >>>> >>>>>>is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it >> >>positions >> >>>>the >>>> >>>>>>spring perches, and the angle normally does not require adjustment >> >>as >> >>>>much >>>> >>>>>>as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle on >>> >>>your >>> >>>>>YJ >>>>> >>>>>>is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other >>> >>>issues. >>> >>>>>Ball >>>>> >>>>>>joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is the >> >>one >> >>>>>that >>>>> >>>>>>you will most likely need to replace, and you should give serious >>>>>>consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes the >>> >>>test >>> >>>>>for >>>>> >>>>>>a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off the >>> >>>ground >>> >>>>>and >>>>> >>>>>>1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the bottom, >>> >>>and >>> >>>>>2.) >>>>> >>>>>>use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move in >>>> >>>>either >>>> >>>>>>of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering wheel >>> >>>back >>> >>>>>and >>>>> >>>>>>forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play in >> >>the >> >>>>tie >>>> >>>>>>rod ends. >>>>>> >>>>>>If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of the >>> >>>tie >>> >>>>>rod >>>>> >>>>>>ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with replacing >> >>the >> >>>>>>steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the ball >>>> >>>>joints >>>> >>>>>>or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all like-parts >> >>and >> >>>>the >>>> >>>>>>steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only >>>> >>>>necessary >>>> >>>>>>(MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper ball >>>> >>>>joints >>>> >>>>>>don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often. >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Yep. I'll find out this week if the caster is right.
Thanks Roy. Terry. "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message news:vH4_b.32$pT1.24075@news.uswest.net... I'm with Mike here. I'd certainly take a look at the caster. With all the new parts, it should not go into DW unless SOMETHING is wrong. I've usually found that when you get one of these kind of problems, your assumption that something was done right doesn't hold up. And that you don't find the flaw until you have looked at if at four times. So maybe it's back to the rack, using a crowbar on EVERYTHING. Mike Romain wrote: > He has a custom front end that sounds like it wasn't built properly. > > The builder might not have known how to set the caster so just guessed. > He certainly didn't know how to put a steering stabilizer shock on in > the correct place so that implies he guessed at everything.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > CRWLR wrote: > >>Think of how the forks on a motorcycle are raked. A chopper goes straighat >>ahead really good, but can be a bitch to turn, and a racing bike can turn on >>a dime, but the steering is very twitchy. The most significant difference in >>these examples is the rake of the forks, and this rake is similar to the >>Caster angle. >> >>As I said earlier, caster typically does not play a large role in the >>adjustments of the front end geometry because it is pretty much set during >>manufacturing of the axle. The spring perches define the caster angle. >>Assuming the axle is the right one, the caster angle should be right. Of >>course, with custom modifications - lift - the caster angle can change >>enough to become a player in DW. >> >>Caster angle is the imaginary line through the upper and lower ball joints, >>and the center of the spindle. Properly set, the caster angle should be >>about 7° towards the rear of the vehicle. That is, the upper ball joint >>should trail the lower by about 7°. Perhaps the number is a little bit >>different in your case, but greater angles will be more stable than lesser >>angles. When the angle drops to about 4° or less, then the tires will search >>for the straight ahead position, and this sets up the DW symptoms. There is >>an easy test for Caster angle ... Go to an open area and make a Uturn, or a >>manuver that simulates what you might do when backing from a parking stall. >>Turn the steering wheel fully to one stop, then begin going and see if the >>wheel returns to center on its own, or if it remains in Turning Mode and >>requires you to physically turn back to center. If you have to drive it back >>to straight ahead, then your caster is not great enough, but if it wants to >>go to center on its own, then the caster is probably OK. >> >>In my motorcycle analogy, there are other geometry forces at play, so the >>analogy breaks down pretty quickly, but in general terms, it works pretty >>well. I am certain that my analogy will be corrected, but it works for now. >> >>My FSM says the spec for Caster angle is 6°. >> >>"Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>news:a5SZb.4126$aT1.454@newsread1.news.pas.earth link.net... >> >>>The ball joints appear to be good. I did the push-pull-raised-tire test >> >>and >> >>>it checked out Ok. All the rod ends are tight and lubed. I'll get the >>>caster checked out next week. Explain, if you will, why caster would be a >>>player in DW. This could be my problem. If the caster angle is off, >>>wouldn't this only cause the vehicle to pull to one side or the other? >>> >>>It was suggested to move the steering stabilizer from the drag link to the >>>tie rod. When I did this, I still got the same DW. I thought I felt a >>>little air in the stabilizer at the extended end while testing it, and >> >>will >> >>>replace it as soon as I can find one. >>> >>>Your track bar comment is noted. I'd like to leave it off all together >>>because real estate up front is a premium right now with the Dana60. But >>>will put it back on nice and tight and put the DW to the test again. >>> >>>Thanks again, >>>Terry. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>"CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message >>>news:103foc9kj445236@corp.supernews.com... >>> >>>>If all of that stuff is new, I would not think the steering stabalizer >>> >>>would >>> >>>>be so significant. Did you attempt the tests that I described? (If I >>>>described something incorrectly, did you try what might have been >>> >>>suggested >>> >>>>to correct me?) >>>> >>>>If you suspect the track bar is worn, and causing a problem with >>> >>>looseness, >>> >>>>then removing the trackbar altogether is not much of a confirmation >> >>test. >> >>>If >>> >>>>yo had no trackbar, and complained of DW, then put the bar on to see if >>> >>>the >>> >>>>DW went away, then you would have a reasonable diagnostic test. Taking >> >>the >> >>>>trackbar off is the same thing as having one on that had worn bushings. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>"Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>news:nCwZb.3004$aT1.1407@newsread1.news.pas.ea rthlink.net... >>>> >>>>>It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything else >> >>on >> >>>>the >>>> >>>>>front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is new >>> >>>and >>> >>>>>tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & ends, >> >>drag >> >>>>>link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and tight. >> >>I >> >>>>just >>>> >>>>>put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October. >>>>> >>>>>I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. >> >>I'll >> >>>>have >>>> >>>>>the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it up if >>>>>needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in that >>> >>>same >>> >>>>>damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first thought. >> >>If >> >>>>she >>>> >>>>>passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old >>>> >>>>steering >>>> >>>>>stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to the >>>> >>>>drag >>>> >>>>>link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod >>> >>>instead >>> >>>>>since it is "closer" to the steering. >>>>> >>>>>Thanks for all the comments and info. >>>>> >>>>>Terry >>>>>92YJ >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message >>>>>news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com... >>>>> >>>>>>"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message >>>>>>news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net... >>>>>>Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for >>>>>>every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a >>>>>>while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the >>>>>>NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to >>>>>>REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or >>>>>>tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some >>>>>>front end work. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>I'll second that diagnosis. >>>>>> >>>>>>I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no DW >>>>>>experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect the >>>> >>>>ball >>>> >>>>>>joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life. >>>>>> >>>>>>DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, and >>> >>>it >>> >>>>>>takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same >> >>direction. >> >>>>>During >>>>> >>>>>>the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts looking >> >>for >> >>>>the >>>> >>>>>>front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to where >>> >>>the >>> >>>>>>first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire then >>>> >>>>heads >>>> >>>>>>back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore because >> >>it >> >>>>has >>>> >>>>>>decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral >>> >>>downward >>> >>>>>from >>>>> >>>>>>there. >>>>>> >>>>>>Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not adjustable >> >>in >> >>>a >>> >>>>>>leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, but >> >>the >> >>>>idea >>>> >>>>>>is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it >> >>positions >> >>>>the >>>> >>>>>>spring perches, and the angle normally does not require adjustment >> >>as >> >>>>much >>>> >>>>>>as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle on >>> >>>your >>> >>>>>YJ >>>>> >>>>>>is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other >>> >>>issues. >>> >>>>>Ball >>>>> >>>>>>joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is the >> >>one >> >>>>>that >>>>> >>>>>>you will most likely need to replace, and you should give serious >>>>>>consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes the >>> >>>test >>> >>>>>for >>>>> >>>>>>a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off the >>> >>>ground >>> >>>>>and >>>>> >>>>>>1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the bottom, >>> >>>and >>> >>>>>2.) >>>>> >>>>>>use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move in >>>> >>>>either >>>> >>>>>>of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering wheel >>> >>>back >>> >>>>>and >>>>> >>>>>>forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play in >> >>the >> >>>>tie >>>> >>>>>>rod ends. >>>>>> >>>>>>If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of the >>> >>>tie >>> >>>>>rod >>>>> >>>>>>ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with replacing >> >>the >> >>>>>>steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the ball >>>> >>>>joints >>>> >>>>>>or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all like-parts >> >>and >> >>>>the >>>> >>>>>>steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only >>>> >>>>necessary >>>> >>>>>>(MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper ball >>>> >>>>joints >>>> >>>>>>don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often. >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
My stabalizer is attached to the tie rod that runs between the tires, it is
not attached to the rod that connects to the Pitman Arm. It is clamped to the axle tube near the pumpkin, and to the tie rod near the left tire. This does not apear to be as described in the FSM. I am not sure why you have a trackbar, and I wonder if you really mean the anti sway bar. After watching your responses, I don't think you are confused about the trackbar and the swaybar, but I just had to mention it, just in case ... In any case, what you describe takes me back to either an incorrect Caster Angle, or worn parts, most notably the ball joints or tie rod ends, or any combination of these. Since you have a "new" D60, I have to wonder if the Caster was set properly. there are shims (that look similar to a door-stop that one might wedge under a door to hold it open), that can help you to set this angle. "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:ma4_b.3563$yZ1.3102@newsread2.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by Dynatrac. > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is alright, > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people who have > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. The > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front with > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the track > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. I've > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it comes > to my rig. > > Regards, > Terry. > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:4038C4C8.9F7976B4@sympatico.ca... > > He has a custom front end that sounds like it wasn't built properly. > > > > The builder might not have known how to set the caster so just guessed. > > He certainly didn't know how to put a steering stabilizer shock on in > > the correct place so that implies he guessed at everything.... > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > Think of how the forks on a motorcycle are raked. A chopper goes > straighat > > > ahead really good, but can be a bitch to turn, and a racing bike can > turn on > > > a dime, but the steering is very twitchy. The most significant > difference in > > > these examples is the rake of the forks, and this rake is similar to the > > > Caster angle. > > > > > > As I said earlier, caster typically does not play a large role in the > > > adjustments of the front end geometry because it is pretty much set > during > > > manufacturing of the axle. The spring perches define the caster angle. > > > Assuming the axle is the right one, the caster angle should be right. Of > > > course, with custom modifications - lift - the caster angle can change > > > enough to become a player in DW. > > > > > > Caster angle is the imaginary line through the upper and lower ball > joints, > > > and the center of the spindle. Properly set, the caster angle should be > > > about 7° towards the rear of the vehicle. That is, the upper ball joint > > > should trail the lower by about 7°. Perhaps the number is a little bit > > > different in your case, but greater angles will be more stable than > lesser > > > angles. When the angle drops to about 4° or less, then the tires will > search > > > for the straight ahead position, and this sets up the DW symptoms. There > is > > > an easy test for Caster angle ... Go to an open area and make a Uturn, > or a > > > manuver that simulates what you might do when backing from a parking > stall. > > > Turn the steering wheel fully to one stop, then begin going and see if > the > > > wheel returns to center on its own, or if it remains in Turning Mode and > > > requires you to physically turn back to center. If you have to drive it > back > > > to straight ahead, then your caster is not great enough, but if it wants > to > > > go to center on its own, then the caster is probably OK. > > > > > > In my motorcycle analogy, there are other geometry forces at play, so > the > > > analogy breaks down pretty quickly, but in general terms, it works > pretty > > > well. I am certain that my analogy will be corrected, but it works for > now. > > > > > > My FSM says the spec for Caster angle is 6°. > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > news:a5SZb.4126$aT1.454@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > > > The ball joints appear to be good. I did the push-pull-raised-tire > test > > > and > > > > it checked out Ok. All the rod ends are tight and lubed. I'll get > the > > > > caster checked out next week. Explain, if you will, why caster would > be a > > > > player in DW. This could be my problem. If the caster angle is off, > > > > wouldn't this only cause the vehicle to pull to one side or the other? > > > > > > > > It was suggested to move the steering stabilizer from the drag link to > the > > > > tie rod. When I did this, I still got the same DW. I thought I felt > a > > > > little air in the stabilizer at the extended end while testing it, and > > > will > > > > replace it as soon as I can find one. > > > > > > > > Your track bar comment is noted. I'd like to leave it off all > together > > > > because real estate up front is a premium right now with the Dana60. > But > > > > will put it back on nice and tight and put the DW to the test again. > > > > > > > > Thanks again, > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message > > > > news:103foc9kj445236@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > If all of that stuff is new, I would not think the steering > stabalizer > > > > would > > > > > be so significant. Did you attempt the tests that I described? (If I > > > > > described something incorrectly, did you try what might have been > > > > suggested > > > > > to correct me?) > > > > > > > > > > If you suspect the track bar is worn, and causing a problem with > > > > looseness, > > > > > then removing the trackbar altogether is not much of a confirmation > > > test. > > > > If > > > > > yo had no trackbar, and complained of DW, then put the bar on to see > if > > > > the > > > > > DW went away, then you would have a reasonable diagnostic test. > Taking > > > the > > > > > trackbar off is the same thing as having one on that had worn > bushings. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > news:nCwZb.3004$aT1.1407@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > > > > > > It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything > else > > > on > > > > > the > > > > > > front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is > new > > > > and > > > > > > tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & > ends, > > > drag > > > > > > link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and > tight. > > > I > > > > > just > > > > > > put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October. > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. > > > I'll > > > > > have > > > > > > the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it > up if > > > > > > needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in > that > > > > same > > > > > > damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first > thought. > > > If > > > > > she > > > > > > passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old > > > > > steering > > > > > > stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to > the > > > > > drag > > > > > > link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod > > > > instead > > > > > > since it is "closer" to the steering. > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for all the comments and info. > > > > > > > > > > > > Terry > > > > > > 92YJ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > > > > news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message > > > > > > > news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net... > > > > > > > Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for > > > > > > > every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a > > > > > > > while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the > > > > > > > NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to > > > > > > > REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or > > > > > > > tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some > > > > > > > front end work. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll second that diagnosis. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no > DW > > > > > > > experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect > the > > > > > ball > > > > > > > joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, > and > > > > it > > > > > > > takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same > > > direction. > > > > > > During > > > > > > > the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts > looking > > > for > > > > > the > > > > > > > front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to > where > > > > the > > > > > > > first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire > then > > > > > heads > > > > > > > back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore > because > > > it > > > > > has > > > > > > > decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral > > > > downward > > > > > > from > > > > > > > there. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not > adjustable > > > in > > > > a > > > > > > > leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, > but > > > the > > > > > idea > > > > > > > is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it > > > positions > > > > > the > > > > > > > spring perches, and the angle normally does not require > adjustment > > > as > > > > > much > > > > > > > as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle > on > > > > your > > > > > > YJ > > > > > > > is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other > > > > issues. > > > > > > Ball > > > > > > > joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is > the > > > one > > > > > > that > > > > > > > you will most likely need to replace, and you should give > serious > > > > > > > consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes > the > > > > test > > > > > > for > > > > > > > a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off > the > > > > ground > > > > > > and > > > > > > > 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the > bottom, > > > > and > > > > > > 2.) > > > > > > > use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move > in > > > > > either > > > > > > > of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering > wheel > > > > back > > > > > > and > > > > > > > forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play > in > > > the > > > > > tie > > > > > > > rod ends. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of > the > > > > tie > > > > > > rod > > > > > > > ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with > replacing > > > the > > > > > > > steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the > ball > > > > > joints > > > > > > > or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all > like-parts > > > and > > > > > the > > > > > > > steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only > > > > > necessary > > > > > > > (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper > ball > > > > > joints > > > > > > > don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: A case of death wobble today
My stabalizer is attached to the tie rod that runs between the tires, it is
not attached to the rod that connects to the Pitman Arm. It is clamped to the axle tube near the pumpkin, and to the tie rod near the left tire. This does not apear to be as described in the FSM. I am not sure why you have a trackbar, and I wonder if you really mean the anti sway bar. After watching your responses, I don't think you are confused about the trackbar and the swaybar, but I just had to mention it, just in case ... In any case, what you describe takes me back to either an incorrect Caster Angle, or worn parts, most notably the ball joints or tie rod ends, or any combination of these. Since you have a "new" D60, I have to wonder if the Caster was set properly. there are shims (that look similar to a door-stop that one might wedge under a door to hold it open), that can help you to set this angle. "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:ma4_b.3563$yZ1.3102@newsread2.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by Dynatrac. > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is alright, > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people who have > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. The > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front with > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the track > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. I've > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it comes > to my rig. > > Regards, > Terry. > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:4038C4C8.9F7976B4@sympatico.ca... > > He has a custom front end that sounds like it wasn't built properly. > > > > The builder might not have known how to set the caster so just guessed. > > He certainly didn't know how to put a steering stabilizer shock on in > > the correct place so that implies he guessed at everything.... > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > Think of how the forks on a motorcycle are raked. A chopper goes > straighat > > > ahead really good, but can be a bitch to turn, and a racing bike can > turn on > > > a dime, but the steering is very twitchy. The most significant > difference in > > > these examples is the rake of the forks, and this rake is similar to the > > > Caster angle. > > > > > > As I said earlier, caster typically does not play a large role in the > > > adjustments of the front end geometry because it is pretty much set > during > > > manufacturing of the axle. The spring perches define the caster angle. > > > Assuming the axle is the right one, the caster angle should be right. Of > > > course, with custom modifications - lift - the caster angle can change > > > enough to become a player in DW. > > > > > > Caster angle is the imaginary line through the upper and lower ball > joints, > > > and the center of the spindle. Properly set, the caster angle should be > > > about 7° towards the rear of the vehicle. That is, the upper ball joint > > > should trail the lower by about 7°. Perhaps the number is a little bit > > > different in your case, but greater angles will be more stable than > lesser > > > angles. When the angle drops to about 4° or less, then the tires will > search > > > for the straight ahead position, and this sets up the DW symptoms. There > is > > > an easy test for Caster angle ... Go to an open area and make a Uturn, > or a > > > manuver that simulates what you might do when backing from a parking > stall. > > > Turn the steering wheel fully to one stop, then begin going and see if > the > > > wheel returns to center on its own, or if it remains in Turning Mode and > > > requires you to physically turn back to center. If you have to drive it > back > > > to straight ahead, then your caster is not great enough, but if it wants > to > > > go to center on its own, then the caster is probably OK. > > > > > > In my motorcycle analogy, there are other geometry forces at play, so > the > > > analogy breaks down pretty quickly, but in general terms, it works > pretty > > > well. I am certain that my analogy will be corrected, but it works for > now. > > > > > > My FSM says the spec for Caster angle is 6°. > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > news:a5SZb.4126$aT1.454@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > > > The ball joints appear to be good. I did the push-pull-raised-tire > test > > > and > > > > it checked out Ok. All the rod ends are tight and lubed. I'll get > the > > > > caster checked out next week. Explain, if you will, why caster would > be a > > > > player in DW. This could be my problem. If the caster angle is off, > > > > wouldn't this only cause the vehicle to pull to one side or the other? > > > > > > > > It was suggested to move the steering stabilizer from the drag link to > the > > > > tie rod. When I did this, I still got the same DW. I thought I felt > a > > > > little air in the stabilizer at the extended end while testing it, and > > > will > > > > replace it as soon as I can find one. > > > > > > > > Your track bar comment is noted. I'd like to leave it off all > together > > > > because real estate up front is a premium right now with the Dana60. > But > > > > will put it back on nice and tight and put the DW to the test again. > > > > > > > > Thanks again, > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message > > > > news:103foc9kj445236@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > If all of that stuff is new, I would not think the steering > stabalizer > > > > would > > > > > be so significant. Did you attempt the tests that I described? (If I > > > > > described something incorrectly, did you try what might have been > > > > suggested > > > > > to correct me?) > > > > > > > > > > If you suspect the track bar is worn, and causing a problem with > > > > looseness, > > > > > then removing the trackbar altogether is not much of a confirmation > > > test. > > > > If > > > > > yo had no trackbar, and complained of DW, then put the bar on to see > if > > > > the > > > > > DW went away, then you would have a reasonable diagnostic test. > Taking > > > the > > > > > trackbar off is the same thing as having one on that had worn > bushings. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > news:nCwZb.3004$aT1.1407@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > > > > > > It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything > else > > > on > > > > > the > > > > > > front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is > new > > > > and > > > > > > tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & > ends, > > > drag > > > > > > link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and > tight. > > > I > > > > > just > > > > > > put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October. > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. > > > I'll > > > > > have > > > > > > the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it > up if > > > > > > needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in > that > > > > same > > > > > > damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first > thought. > > > If > > > > > she > > > > > > passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old > > > > > steering > > > > > > stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to > the > > > > > drag > > > > > > link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod > > > > instead > > > > > > since it is "closer" to the steering. > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for all the comments and info. > > > > > > > > > > > > Terry > > > > > > 92YJ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > > > > news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message > > > > > > > news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net... > > > > > > > Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for > > > > > > > every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a > > > > > > > while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the > > > > > > > NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to > > > > > > > REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or > > > > > > > tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some > > > > > > > front end work. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll second that diagnosis. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no > DW > > > > > > > experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect > the > > > > > ball > > > > > > > joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, > and > > > > it > > > > > > > takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same > > > direction. > > > > > > During > > > > > > > the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts > looking > > > for > > > > > the > > > > > > > front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to > where > > > > the > > > > > > > first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire > then > > > > > heads > > > > > > > back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore > because > > > it > > > > > has > > > > > > > decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral > > > > downward > > > > > > from > > > > > > > there. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not > adjustable > > > in > > > > a > > > > > > > leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, > but > > > the > > > > > idea > > > > > > > is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it > > > positions > > > > > the > > > > > > > spring perches, and the angle normally does not require > adjustment > > > as > > > > > much > > > > > > > as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle > on > > > > your > > > > > > YJ > > > > > > > is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other > > > > issues. > > > > > > Ball > > > > > > > joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is > the > > > one > > > > > > that > > > > > > > you will most likely need to replace, and you should give > serious > > > > > > > consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes > the > > > > test > > > > > > for > > > > > > > a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off > the > > > > ground > > > > > > and > > > > > > > 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the > bottom, > > > > and > > > > > > 2.) > > > > > > > use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move > in > > > > > either > > > > > > > of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering > wheel > > > > back > > > > > > and > > > > > > > forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play > in > > > the > > > > > tie > > > > > > > rod ends. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of > the > > > > tie > > > > > > rod > > > > > > > ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with > replacing > > > the > > > > > > > steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the > ball > > > > > joints > > > > > > > or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all > like-parts > > > and > > > > > the > > > > > > > steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only > > > > > necessary > > > > > > > (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper > ball > > > > > joints > > > > > > > don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: A case of death wobble today
My stabalizer is attached to the tie rod that runs between the tires, it is
not attached to the rod that connects to the Pitman Arm. It is clamped to the axle tube near the pumpkin, and to the tie rod near the left tire. This does not apear to be as described in the FSM. I am not sure why you have a trackbar, and I wonder if you really mean the anti sway bar. After watching your responses, I don't think you are confused about the trackbar and the swaybar, but I just had to mention it, just in case ... In any case, what you describe takes me back to either an incorrect Caster Angle, or worn parts, most notably the ball joints or tie rod ends, or any combination of these. Since you have a "new" D60, I have to wonder if the Caster was set properly. there are shims (that look similar to a door-stop that one might wedge under a door to hold it open), that can help you to set this angle. "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:ma4_b.3563$yZ1.3102@newsread2.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by Dynatrac. > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is alright, > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people who have > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. The > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front with > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the track > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. I've > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it comes > to my rig. > > Regards, > Terry. > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:4038C4C8.9F7976B4@sympatico.ca... > > He has a custom front end that sounds like it wasn't built properly. > > > > The builder might not have known how to set the caster so just guessed. > > He certainly didn't know how to put a steering stabilizer shock on in > > the correct place so that implies he guessed at everything.... > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > Think of how the forks on a motorcycle are raked. A chopper goes > straighat > > > ahead really good, but can be a bitch to turn, and a racing bike can > turn on > > > a dime, but the steering is very twitchy. The most significant > difference in > > > these examples is the rake of the forks, and this rake is similar to the > > > Caster angle. > > > > > > As I said earlier, caster typically does not play a large role in the > > > adjustments of the front end geometry because it is pretty much set > during > > > manufacturing of the axle. The spring perches define the caster angle. > > > Assuming the axle is the right one, the caster angle should be right. Of > > > course, with custom modifications - lift - the caster angle can change > > > enough to become a player in DW. > > > > > > Caster angle is the imaginary line through the upper and lower ball > joints, > > > and the center of the spindle. Properly set, the caster angle should be > > > about 7° towards the rear of the vehicle. That is, the upper ball joint > > > should trail the lower by about 7°. Perhaps the number is a little bit > > > different in your case, but greater angles will be more stable than > lesser > > > angles. When the angle drops to about 4° or less, then the tires will > search > > > for the straight ahead position, and this sets up the DW symptoms. There > is > > > an easy test for Caster angle ... Go to an open area and make a Uturn, > or a > > > manuver that simulates what you might do when backing from a parking > stall. > > > Turn the steering wheel fully to one stop, then begin going and see if > the > > > wheel returns to center on its own, or if it remains in Turning Mode and > > > requires you to physically turn back to center. If you have to drive it > back > > > to straight ahead, then your caster is not great enough, but if it wants > to > > > go to center on its own, then the caster is probably OK. > > > > > > In my motorcycle analogy, there are other geometry forces at play, so > the > > > analogy breaks down pretty quickly, but in general terms, it works > pretty > > > well. I am certain that my analogy will be corrected, but it works for > now. > > > > > > My FSM says the spec for Caster angle is 6°. > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > news:a5SZb.4126$aT1.454@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > > > The ball joints appear to be good. I did the push-pull-raised-tire > test > > > and > > > > it checked out Ok. All the rod ends are tight and lubed. I'll get > the > > > > caster checked out next week. Explain, if you will, why caster would > be a > > > > player in DW. This could be my problem. If the caster angle is off, > > > > wouldn't this only cause the vehicle to pull to one side or the other? > > > > > > > > It was suggested to move the steering stabilizer from the drag link to > the > > > > tie rod. When I did this, I still got the same DW. I thought I felt > a > > > > little air in the stabilizer at the extended end while testing it, and > > > will > > > > replace it as soon as I can find one. > > > > > > > > Your track bar comment is noted. I'd like to leave it off all > together > > > > because real estate up front is a premium right now with the Dana60. > But > > > > will put it back on nice and tight and put the DW to the test again. > > > > > > > > Thanks again, > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message > > > > news:103foc9kj445236@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > If all of that stuff is new, I would not think the steering > stabalizer > > > > would > > > > > be so significant. Did you attempt the tests that I described? (If I > > > > > described something incorrectly, did you try what might have been > > > > suggested > > > > > to correct me?) > > > > > > > > > > If you suspect the track bar is worn, and causing a problem with > > > > looseness, > > > > > then removing the trackbar altogether is not much of a confirmation > > > test. > > > > If > > > > > yo had no trackbar, and complained of DW, then put the bar on to see > if > > > > the > > > > > DW went away, then you would have a reasonable diagnostic test. > Taking > > > the > > > > > trackbar off is the same thing as having one on that had worn > bushings. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > news:nCwZb.3004$aT1.1407@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > > > > > > It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything > else > > > on > > > > > the > > > > > > front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is > new > > > > and > > > > > > tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & > ends, > > > drag > > > > > > link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and > tight. > > > I > > > > > just > > > > > > put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October. > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. > > > I'll > > > > > have > > > > > > the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it > up if > > > > > > needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in > that > > > > same > > > > > > damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first > thought. > > > If > > > > > she > > > > > > passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old > > > > > steering > > > > > > stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to > the > > > > > drag > > > > > > link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod > > > > instead > > > > > > since it is "closer" to the steering. > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for all the comments and info. > > > > > > > > > > > > Terry > > > > > > 92YJ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > > > > news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message > > > > > > > news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net... > > > > > > > Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for > > > > > > > every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a > > > > > > > while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the > > > > > > > NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to > > > > > > > REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or > > > > > > > tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some > > > > > > > front end work. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll second that diagnosis. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no > DW > > > > > > > experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect > the > > > > > ball > > > > > > > joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, > and > > > > it > > > > > > > takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same > > > direction. > > > > > > During > > > > > > > the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts > looking > > > for > > > > > the > > > > > > > front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to > where > > > > the > > > > > > > first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire > then > > > > > heads > > > > > > > back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore > because > > > it > > > > > has > > > > > > > decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral > > > > downward > > > > > > from > > > > > > > there. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not > adjustable > > > in > > > > a > > > > > > > leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, > but > > > the > > > > > idea > > > > > > > is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it > > > positions > > > > > the > > > > > > > spring perches, and the angle normally does not require > adjustment > > > as > > > > > much > > > > > > > as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle > on > > > > your > > > > > > YJ > > > > > > > is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other > > > > issues. > > > > > > Ball > > > > > > > joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is > the > > > one > > > > > > that > > > > > > > you will most likely need to replace, and you should give > serious > > > > > > > consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes > the > > > > test > > > > > > for > > > > > > > a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off > the > > > > ground > > > > > > and > > > > > > > 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the > bottom, > > > > and > > > > > > 2.) > > > > > > > use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move > in > > > > > either > > > > > > > of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering > wheel > > > > back > > > > > > and > > > > > > > forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play > in > > > the > > > > > tie > > > > > > > rod ends. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of > the > > > > tie > > > > > > rod > > > > > > > ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with > replacing > > > the > > > > > > > steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the > ball > > > > > joints > > > > > > > or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all > like-parts > > > and > > > > > the > > > > > > > steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only > > > > > necessary > > > > > > > (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper > ball > > > > > joints > > > > > > > don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: A case of death wobble today
On another note, you keep using the term DW, and you seem to tie the
experience in with trackbar problems. The only influence the track bar will have is on holding the entire front end in place. DW, by definition, is a problem where the TIRES are working against each other and they set up a harmonic vibration that we call DW. The trackbar ought not play a role in this sort of problem. But, what if the spring bushings or some other similar part was not working properly? The track bar would serve to hold the front end together and mask such a problem. When the trackbar had finally had enough of this abuse, all hell would break loose, and we might describe the experience as DW. I just wanted to throw that out because you keep saying that all of steering parts we have been talking about are new and serviceable. Perhaps these parts are exactly as you said, and the trackbar does solve the problem. My guess is that the trackbar is, at best, masking the real problem because a trackbar ought not play any role whatsoever in DW. BTW, Lighten up on Mike. He is just exploring the possibilities. Of the respondants on this board, he gives the most consistantly objective views, and he is right far more often than he is wrong. "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:9T4_b.3604$yZ1.371@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to find > out - get it checked. > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears so > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and mechanics. > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put the > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on the > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing in on > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go hit > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in the > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, and > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > Terry. > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > Mike > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > Dynatrac. > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > alright, > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people who > have > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. > The > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front > with > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > track > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. I've > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it > comes > > > to my rig. > > > > > > Regards, > > > Terry. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > news:4038C4C8.9F7976B4@sympatico.ca... > > > > He has a custom front end that sounds like it wasn't built properly. > > > > > > > > The builder might not have known how to set the caster so just > guessed. > > > > He certainly didn't know how to put a steering stabilizer shock on in > > > > the correct place so that implies he guessed at everything.... > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Think of how the forks on a motorcycle are raked. A chopper goes > > > straighat > > > > > ahead really good, but can be a bitch to turn, and a racing bike can > > > turn on > > > > > a dime, but the steering is very twitchy. The most significant > > > difference in > > > > > these examples is the rake of the forks, and this rake is similar to > the > > > > > Caster angle. > > > > > > > > > > As I said earlier, caster typically does not play a large role in > the > > > > > adjustments of the front end geometry because it is pretty much set > > > during > > > > > manufacturing of the axle. The spring perches define the caster > angle. > > > > > Assuming the axle is the right one, the caster angle should be > right. Of > > > > > course, with custom modifications - lift - the caster angle can > change > > > > > enough to become a player in DW. > > > > > > > > > > Caster angle is the imaginary line through the upper and lower ball > > > joints, > > > > > and the center of the spindle. Properly set, the caster angle should > be > > > > > about 7° towards the rear of the vehicle. That is, the upper ball > joint > > > > > should trail the lower by about 7°. Perhaps the number is a little > bit > > > > > different in your case, but greater angles will be more stable than > > > lesser > > > > > angles. When the angle drops to about 4° or less, then the tires > will > > > search > > > > > for the straight ahead position, and this sets up the DW symptoms. > There > > > is > > > > > an easy test for Caster angle ... Go to an open area and make a > Uturn, > > > or a > > > > > manuver that simulates what you might do when backing from a parking > > > stall. > > > > > Turn the steering wheel fully to one stop, then begin going and see > if > > > the > > > > > wheel returns to center on its own, or if it remains in Turning Mode > and > > > > > requires you to physically turn back to center. If you have to drive > it > > > back > > > > > to straight ahead, then your caster is not great enough, but if it > wants > > > to > > > > > go to center on its own, then the caster is probably OK. > > > > > > > > > > In my motorcycle analogy, there are other geometry forces at play, > so > > > the > > > > > analogy breaks down pretty quickly, but in general terms, it works > > > pretty > > > > > well. I am certain that my analogy will be corrected, but it works > for > > > now. > > > > > > > > > > My FSM says the spec for Caster angle is 6°. > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > news:a5SZb.4126$aT1.454@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > > > > > The ball joints appear to be good. I did the > push-pull-raised-tire > > > test > > > > > and > > > > > > it checked out Ok. All the rod ends are tight and lubed. I'll > get > > > the > > > > > > caster checked out next week. Explain, if you will, why caster > would > > > be a > > > > > > player in DW. This could be my problem. If the caster angle is > off, > > > > > > wouldn't this only cause the vehicle to pull to one side or the > other? > > > > > > > > > > > > It was suggested to move the steering stabilizer from the drag > link to > > > the > > > > > > tie rod. When I did this, I still got the same DW. I thought I > felt > > > a > > > > > > little air in the stabilizer at the extended end while testing it, > and > > > > > will > > > > > > replace it as soon as I can find one. > > > > > > > > > > > > Your track bar comment is noted. I'd like to leave it off all > > > together > > > > > > because real estate up front is a premium right now with the > Dana60. > > > But > > > > > > will put it back on nice and tight and put the DW to the test > again. > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again, > > > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message > > > > > > news:103foc9kj445236@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > If all of that stuff is new, I would not think the steering > > > stabalizer > > > > > > would > > > > > > > be so significant. Did you attempt the tests that I described? > (If I > > > > > > > described something incorrectly, did you try what might have > been > > > > > > suggested > > > > > > > to correct me?) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If you suspect the track bar is worn, and causing a problem with > > > > > > looseness, > > > > > > > then removing the trackbar altogether is not much of a > confirmation > > > > > test. > > > > > > If > > > > > > > yo had no trackbar, and complained of DW, then put the bar on to > see > > > if > > > > > > the > > > > > > > DW went away, then you would have a reasonable diagnostic test. > > > Taking > > > > > the > > > > > > > trackbar off is the same thing as having one on that had worn > > > bushings. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > > > news:nCwZb.3004$aT1.1407@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > > > > > > > > It very well might be the steering stabilizer because > everything > > > else > > > > > on > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > front is new. All the steering components and entire front > end is > > > new > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & > > > ends, > > > > > drag > > > > > > > > link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and > > > tight. > > > > > I > > > > > > > just > > > > > > > > put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what > happens. > > > > > I'll > > > > > > > have > > > > > > > > the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim > it > > > up if > > > > > > > > needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW > in > > > that > > > > > > same > > > > > > > > damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first > > > thought. > > > > > If > > > > > > > she > > > > > > > > passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the > old > > > > > > > steering > > > > > > > > stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the > frame to > > > the > > > > > > > drag > > > > > > > > link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie > rod > > > > > > instead > > > > > > > > since it is "closer" to the steering. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for all the comments and info. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Terry > > > > > > > > 92YJ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > > > > > > news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message > > > > > > > > > news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net... > > > > > > > > > Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" > for > > > > > > > > > every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem > for a > > > > > > > > > while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make > the > > > > > > > > > NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants > to > > > > > > > > > REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball > joint or > > > > > > > > > tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for > some > > > > > > > > > front end work. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll second that diagnosis. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and > no > > > DW > > > > > > > > > experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I > suspect > > > the > > > > > > > ball > > > > > > > > > joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight > ahead, > > > and > > > > > > it > > > > > > > > > takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same > > > > > direction. > > > > > > > > During > > > > > > > > > the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts > > > looking > > > > > for > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up > to > > > where > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second > tire > > > then > > > > > > > heads > > > > > > > > > back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore > > > because > > > > > it > > > > > > > has > > > > > > > > > decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things > spiral > > > > > > downward > > > > > > > > from > > > > > > > > > there. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not > > > adjustable > > > > > in > > > > > > a > > > > > > > > > leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by > shims, > > > but > > > > > the > > > > > > > idea > > > > > > > > > is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it > > > > > positions > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > spring perches, and the angle normally does not require > > > adjustment > > > > > as > > > > > > > much > > > > > > > > > as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster > angle > > > on > > > > > > your > > > > > > > > YJ > > > > > > > > > is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the > other > > > > > > issues. > > > > > > > > Ball > > > > > > > > > joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint > is > > > the > > > > > one > > > > > > > > that > > > > > > > > > you will most likely need to replace, and you should give > > > serious > > > > > > > > > consideration to replacing both of them even if only one > passes > > > the > > > > > > test > > > > > > > > for > > > > > > > > > a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire > off > > > the > > > > > > ground > > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the > > > bottom, > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > 2.) > > > > > > > > > use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not > move > > > in > > > > > > > either > > > > > > > > > of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering > > > wheel > > > > > > back > > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no > play > > > in > > > > > the > > > > > > > tie > > > > > > > > > rod ends. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and > all of > > > the > > > > > > tie > > > > > > > > rod > > > > > > > > > ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with > > > replacing > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of > the > > > ball > > > > > > > joints > > > > > > > > > or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all > > > like-parts > > > > > and > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is > only > > > > > > > necessary > > > > > > > > > (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The > upper > > > ball > > > > > > > joints > > > > > > > > > don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: A case of death wobble today
On another note, you keep using the term DW, and you seem to tie the
experience in with trackbar problems. The only influence the track bar will have is on holding the entire front end in place. DW, by definition, is a problem where the TIRES are working against each other and they set up a harmonic vibration that we call DW. The trackbar ought not play a role in this sort of problem. But, what if the spring bushings or some other similar part was not working properly? The track bar would serve to hold the front end together and mask such a problem. When the trackbar had finally had enough of this abuse, all hell would break loose, and we might describe the experience as DW. I just wanted to throw that out because you keep saying that all of steering parts we have been talking about are new and serviceable. Perhaps these parts are exactly as you said, and the trackbar does solve the problem. My guess is that the trackbar is, at best, masking the real problem because a trackbar ought not play any role whatsoever in DW. BTW, Lighten up on Mike. He is just exploring the possibilities. Of the respondants on this board, he gives the most consistantly objective views, and he is right far more often than he is wrong. "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:9T4_b.3604$yZ1.371@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to find > out - get it checked. > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears so > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and mechanics. > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put the > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on the > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing in on > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go hit > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in the > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, and > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > Terry. > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > Mike > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > Dynatrac. > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > alright, > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people who > have > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. > The > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front > with > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > track > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. I've > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it > comes > > > to my rig. > > > > > > Regards, > > > Terry. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > news:4038C4C8.9F7976B4@sympatico.ca... > > > > He has a custom front end that sounds like it wasn't built properly. > > > > > > > > The builder might not have known how to set the caster so just > guessed. > > > > He certainly didn't know how to put a steering stabilizer shock on in > > > > the correct place so that implies he guessed at everything.... > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Think of how the forks on a motorcycle are raked. A chopper goes > > > straighat > > > > > ahead really good, but can be a bitch to turn, and a racing bike can > > > turn on > > > > > a dime, but the steering is very twitchy. The most significant > > > difference in > > > > > these examples is the rake of the forks, and this rake is similar to > the > > > > > Caster angle. > > > > > > > > > > As I said earlier, caster typically does not play a large role in > the > > > > > adjustments of the front end geometry because it is pretty much set > > > during > > > > > manufacturing of the axle. The spring perches define the caster > angle. > > > > > Assuming the axle is the right one, the caster angle should be > right. Of > > > > > course, with custom modifications - lift - the caster angle can > change > > > > > enough to become a player in DW. > > > > > > > > > > Caster angle is the imaginary line through the upper and lower ball > > > joints, > > > > > and the center of the spindle. Properly set, the caster angle should > be > > > > > about 7° towards the rear of the vehicle. That is, the upper ball > joint > > > > > should trail the lower by about 7°. Perhaps the number is a little > bit > > > > > different in your case, but greater angles will be more stable than > > > lesser > > > > > angles. When the angle drops to about 4° or less, then the tires > will > > > search > > > > > for the straight ahead position, and this sets up the DW symptoms. > There > > > is > > > > > an easy test for Caster angle ... Go to an open area and make a > Uturn, > > > or a > > > > > manuver that simulates what you might do when backing from a parking > > > stall. > > > > > Turn the steering wheel fully to one stop, then begin going and see > if > > > the > > > > > wheel returns to center on its own, or if it remains in Turning Mode > and > > > > > requires you to physically turn back to center. If you have to drive > it > > > back > > > > > to straight ahead, then your caster is not great enough, but if it > wants > > > to > > > > > go to center on its own, then the caster is probably OK. > > > > > > > > > > In my motorcycle analogy, there are other geometry forces at play, > so > > > the > > > > > analogy breaks down pretty quickly, but in general terms, it works > > > pretty > > > > > well. I am certain that my analogy will be corrected, but it works > for > > > now. > > > > > > > > > > My FSM says the spec for Caster angle is 6°. > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > news:a5SZb.4126$aT1.454@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > > > > > The ball joints appear to be good. I did the > push-pull-raised-tire > > > test > > > > > and > > > > > > it checked out Ok. All the rod ends are tight and lubed. I'll > get > > > the > > > > > > caster checked out next week. Explain, if you will, why caster > would > > > be a > > > > > > player in DW. This could be my problem. If the caster angle is > off, > > > > > > wouldn't this only cause the vehicle to pull to one side or the > other? > > > > > > > > > > > > It was suggested to move the steering stabilizer from the drag > link to > > > the > > > > > > tie rod. When I did this, I still got the same DW. I thought I > felt > > > a > > > > > > little air in the stabilizer at the extended end while testing it, > and > > > > > will > > > > > > replace it as soon as I can find one. > > > > > > > > > > > > Your track bar comment is noted. I'd like to leave it off all > > > together > > > > > > because real estate up front is a premium right now with the > Dana60. > > > But > > > > > > will put it back on nice and tight and put the DW to the test > again. > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again, > > > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message > > > > > > news:103foc9kj445236@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > If all of that stuff is new, I would not think the steering > > > stabalizer > > > > > > would > > > > > > > be so significant. Did you attempt the tests that I described? > (If I > > > > > > > described something incorrectly, did you try what might have > been > > > > > > suggested > > > > > > > to correct me?) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If you suspect the track bar is worn, and causing a problem with > > > > > > looseness, > > > > > > > then removing the trackbar altogether is not much of a > confirmation > > > > > test. > > > > > > If > > > > > > > yo had no trackbar, and complained of DW, then put the bar on to > see > > > if > > > > > > the > > > > > > > DW went away, then you would have a reasonable diagnostic test. > > > Taking > > > > > the > > > > > > > trackbar off is the same thing as having one on that had worn > > > bushings. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > > > news:nCwZb.3004$aT1.1407@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > > > > > > > > It very well might be the steering stabilizer because > everything > > > else > > > > > on > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > front is new. All the steering components and entire front > end is > > > new > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & > > > ends, > > > > > drag > > > > > > > > link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and > > > tight. > > > > > I > > > > > > > just > > > > > > > > put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what > happens. > > > > > I'll > > > > > > > have > > > > > > > > the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim > it > > > up if > > > > > > > > needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW > in > > > that > > > > > > same > > > > > > > > damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first > > > thought. > > > > > If > > > > > > > she > > > > > > > > passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the > old > > > > > > > steering > > > > > > > > stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the > frame to > > > the > > > > > > > drag > > > > > > > > link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie > rod > > > > > > instead > > > > > > > > since it is "closer" to the steering. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for all the comments and info. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Terry > > > > > > > > 92YJ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > > > > > > news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message > > > > > > > > > news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net... > > > > > > > > > Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" > for > > > > > > > > > every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem > for a > > > > > > > > > while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make > the > > > > > > > > > NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants > to > > > > > > > > > REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball > joint or > > > > > > > > > tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for > some > > > > > > > > > front end work. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll second that diagnosis. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and > no > > > DW > > > > > > > > > experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I > suspect > > > the > > > > > > > ball > > > > > > > > > joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight > ahead, > > > and > > > > > > it > > > > > > > > > takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same > > > > > direction. > > > > > > > > During > > > > > > > > > the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts > > > looking > > > > > for > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up > to > > > where > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second > tire > > > then > > > > > > > heads > > > > > > > > > back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore > > > because > > > > > it > > > > > > > has > > > > > > > > > decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things > spiral > > > > > > downward > > > > > > > > from > > > > > > > > > there. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not > > > adjustable > > > > > in > > > > > > a > > > > > > > > > leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by > shims, > > > but > > > > > the > > > > > > > idea > > > > > > > > > is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it > > > > > positions > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > spring perches, and the angle normally does not require > > > adjustment > > > > > as > > > > > > > much > > > > > > > > > as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster > angle > > > on > > > > > > your > > > > > > > > YJ > > > > > > > > > is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the > other > > > > > > issues. > > > > > > > > Ball > > > > > > > > > joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint > is > > > the > > > > > one > > > > > > > > that > > > > > > > > > you will most likely need to replace, and you should give > > > serious > > > > > > > > > consideration to replacing both of them even if only one > passes > > > the > > > > > > test > > > > > > > > for > > > > > > > > > a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire > off > > > the > > > > > > ground > > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the > > > bottom, > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > 2.) > > > > > > > > > use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not > move > > > in > > > > > > > either > > > > > > > > > of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering > > > wheel > > > > > > back > > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no > play > > > in > > > > > the > > > > > > > tie > > > > > > > > > rod ends. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and > all of > > > the > > > > > > tie > > > > > > > > rod > > > > > > > > > ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with > > > replacing > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of > the > > > ball > > > > > > > joints > > > > > > > > > or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all > > > like-parts > > > > > and > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is > only > > > > > > > necessary > > > > > > > > > (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The > upper > > > ball > > > > > > > joints > > > > > > > > > don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: A case of death wobble today
On another note, you keep using the term DW, and you seem to tie the
experience in with trackbar problems. The only influence the track bar will have is on holding the entire front end in place. DW, by definition, is a problem where the TIRES are working against each other and they set up a harmonic vibration that we call DW. The trackbar ought not play a role in this sort of problem. But, what if the spring bushings or some other similar part was not working properly? The track bar would serve to hold the front end together and mask such a problem. When the trackbar had finally had enough of this abuse, all hell would break loose, and we might describe the experience as DW. I just wanted to throw that out because you keep saying that all of steering parts we have been talking about are new and serviceable. Perhaps these parts are exactly as you said, and the trackbar does solve the problem. My guess is that the trackbar is, at best, masking the real problem because a trackbar ought not play any role whatsoever in DW. BTW, Lighten up on Mike. He is just exploring the possibilities. Of the respondants on this board, he gives the most consistantly objective views, and he is right far more often than he is wrong. "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:9T4_b.3604$yZ1.371@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to find > out - get it checked. > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears so > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and mechanics. > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put the > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on the > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing in on > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go hit > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in the > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, and > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > Terry. > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > Mike > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > Dynatrac. > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > alright, > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people who > have > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. > The > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front > with > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > track > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. I've > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it > comes > > > to my rig. > > > > > > Regards, > > > Terry. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > news:4038C4C8.9F7976B4@sympatico.ca... > > > > He has a custom front end that sounds like it wasn't built properly. > > > > > > > > The builder might not have known how to set the caster so just > guessed. > > > > He certainly didn't know how to put a steering stabilizer shock on in > > > > the correct place so that implies he guessed at everything.... > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Think of how the forks on a motorcycle are raked. A chopper goes > > > straighat > > > > > ahead really good, but can be a bitch to turn, and a racing bike can > > > turn on > > > > > a dime, but the steering is very twitchy. The most significant > > > difference in > > > > > these examples is the rake of the forks, and this rake is similar to > the > > > > > Caster angle. > > > > > > > > > > As I said earlier, caster typically does not play a large role in > the > > > > > adjustments of the front end geometry because it is pretty much set > > > during > > > > > manufacturing of the axle. The spring perches define the caster > angle. > > > > > Assuming the axle is the right one, the caster angle should be > right. Of > > > > > course, with custom modifications - lift - the caster angle can > change > > > > > enough to become a player in DW. > > > > > > > > > > Caster angle is the imaginary line through the upper and lower ball > > > joints, > > > > > and the center of the spindle. Properly set, the caster angle should > be > > > > > about 7° towards the rear of the vehicle. That is, the upper ball > joint > > > > > should trail the lower by about 7°. Perhaps the number is a little > bit > > > > > different in your case, but greater angles will be more stable than > > > lesser > > > > > angles. When the angle drops to about 4° or less, then the tires > will > > > search > > > > > for the straight ahead position, and this sets up the DW symptoms. > There > > > is > > > > > an easy test for Caster angle ... Go to an open area and make a > Uturn, > > > or a > > > > > manuver that simulates what you might do when backing from a parking > > > stall. > > > > > Turn the steering wheel fully to one stop, then begin going and see > if > > > the > > > > > wheel returns to center on its own, or if it remains in Turning Mode > and > > > > > requires you to physically turn back to center. If you have to drive > it > > > back > > > > > to straight ahead, then your caster is not great enough, but if it > wants > > > to > > > > > go to center on its own, then the caster is probably OK. > > > > > > > > > > In my motorcycle analogy, there are other geometry forces at play, > so > > > the > > > > > analogy breaks down pretty quickly, but in general terms, it works > > > pretty > > > > > well. I am certain that my analogy will be corrected, but it works > for > > > now. > > > > > > > > > > My FSM says the spec for Caster angle is 6°. > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > news:a5SZb.4126$aT1.454@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > > > > > The ball joints appear to be good. I did the > push-pull-raised-tire > > > test > > > > > and > > > > > > it checked out Ok. All the rod ends are tight and lubed. I'll > get > > > the > > > > > > caster checked out next week. Explain, if you will, why caster > would > > > be a > > > > > > player in DW. This could be my problem. If the caster angle is > off, > > > > > > wouldn't this only cause the vehicle to pull to one side or the > other? > > > > > > > > > > > > It was suggested to move the steering stabilizer from the drag > link to > > > the > > > > > > tie rod. When I did this, I still got the same DW. I thought I > felt > > > a > > > > > > little air in the stabilizer at the extended end while testing it, > and > > > > > will > > > > > > replace it as soon as I can find one. > > > > > > > > > > > > Your track bar comment is noted. I'd like to leave it off all > > > together > > > > > > because real estate up front is a premium right now with the > Dana60. > > > But > > > > > > will put it back on nice and tight and put the DW to the test > again. > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again, > > > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message > > > > > > news:103foc9kj445236@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > If all of that stuff is new, I would not think the steering > > > stabalizer > > > > > > would > > > > > > > be so significant. Did you attempt the tests that I described? > (If I > > > > > > > described something incorrectly, did you try what might have > been > > > > > > suggested > > > > > > > to correct me?) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If you suspect the track bar is worn, and causing a problem with > > > > > > looseness, > > > > > > > then removing the trackbar altogether is not much of a > confirmation > > > > > test. > > > > > > If > > > > > > > yo had no trackbar, and complained of DW, then put the bar on to > see > > > if > > > > > > the > > > > > > > DW went away, then you would have a reasonable diagnostic test. > > > Taking > > > > > the > > > > > > > trackbar off is the same thing as having one on that had worn > > > bushings. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > > > news:nCwZb.3004$aT1.1407@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > > > > > > > > It very well might be the steering stabilizer because > everything > > > else > > > > > on > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > front is new. All the steering components and entire front > end is > > > new > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & > > > ends, > > > > > drag > > > > > > > > link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and > > > tight. > > > > > I > > > > > > > just > > > > > > > > put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what > happens. > > > > > I'll > > > > > > > have > > > > > > > > the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim > it > > > up if > > > > > > > > needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW > in > > > that > > > > > > same > > > > > > > > damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first > > > thought. > > > > > If > > > > > > > she > > > > > > > > passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the > old > > > > > > > steering > > > > > > > > stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the > frame to > > > the > > > > > > > drag > > > > > > > > link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie > rod > > > > > > instead > > > > > > > > since it is "closer" to the steering. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for all the comments and info. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Terry > > > > > > > > 92YJ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > > > > > > news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message > > > > > > > > > news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net... > > > > > > > > > Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" > for > > > > > > > > > every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem > for a > > > > > > > > > while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make > the > > > > > > > > > NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants > to > > > > > > > > > REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball > joint or > > > > > > > > > tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for > some > > > > > > > > > front end work. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll second that diagnosis. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and > no > > > DW > > > > > > > > > experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I > suspect > > > the > > > > > > > ball > > > > > > > > > joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight > ahead, > > > and > > > > > > it > > > > > > > > > takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same > > > > > direction. > > > > > > > > During > > > > > > > > > the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts > > > looking > > > > > for > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up > to > > > where > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second > tire > > > then > > > > > > > heads > > > > > > > > > back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore > > > because > > > > > it > > > > > > > has > > > > > > > > > decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things > spiral > > > > > > downward > > > > > > > > from > > > > > > > > > there. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not > > > adjustable > > > > > in > > > > > > a > > > > > > > > > leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by > shims, > > > but > > > > > the > > > > > > > idea > > > > > > > > > is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it > > > > > positions > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > spring perches, and the angle normally does not require > > > adjustment > > > > > as > > > > > > > much > > > > > > > > > as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster > angle > > > on > > > > > > your > > > > > > > > YJ > > > > > > > > > is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the > other > > > > > > issues. > > > > > > > > Ball > > > > > > > > > joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint > is > > > the > > > > > one > > > > > > > > that > > > > > > > > > you will most likely need to replace, and you should give > > > serious > > > > > > > > > consideration to replacing both of them even if only one > passes > > > the > > > > > > test > > > > > > > > for > > > > > > > > > a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire > off > > > the > > > > > > ground > > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the > > > bottom, > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > 2.) > > > > > > > > > use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not > move > > > in > > > > > > > either > > > > > > > > > of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering > > > wheel > > > > > > back > > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no > play > > > in > > > > > the > > > > > > > tie > > > > > > > > > rod ends. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and > all of > > > the > > > > > > tie > > > > > > > > rod > > > > > > > > > ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with > > > replacing > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of > the > > > ball > > > > > > > joints > > > > > > > > > or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all > > > like-parts > > > > > and > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is > only > > > > > > > necessary > > > > > > > > > (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The > upper > > > ball > > > > > > > joints > > > > > > > > > don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Well, if the caster is off I'll find out this week. I agree that perhaps
the track bar has been masking the caster problem all along. No confusion about the track bar and anti-sway bar. I have one of those on too (with the disconnects). I know what you're saying about Mike. He offers great information all the time and we all appreciate it. I certainly do. His info has helped me on more than one occasion. Thanks Mike!! I don't post too often in here, but hang out alot for the information. His (and your) posts have always been extremely helpful. I meant no offense to Mike or anybody else, just conversing as well as I know how over this darn computer. ;). Also know that I'm no expert on certain Jeepin' subjects (that's why I hang out here!), but I'm no greenhorn either and do keep intimately familiar with my old Jeep and how she handles, runs, etc, and don't take shortcuts when it comes to building her. It's a bad habit I can't seem to shake! Thanks, Terry. "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message news:103hpjbpf9ngj37@corp.supernews.com... > On another note, you keep using the term DW, and you seem to tie the > experience in with trackbar problems. The only influence the track bar will > have is on holding the entire front end in place. DW, by definition, is a > problem where the TIRES are working against each other and they set up a > harmonic vibration that we call DW. > > The trackbar ought not play a role in this sort of problem. > > But, what if the spring bushings or some other similar part was not working > properly? The track bar would serve to hold the front end together and mask > such a problem. When the trackbar had finally had enough of this abuse, all > hell would break loose, and we might describe the experience as DW. > > I just wanted to throw that out because you keep saying that all of steering > parts we have been talking about are new and serviceable. Perhaps these > parts are exactly as you said, and the trackbar does solve the problem. My > guess is that the trackbar is, at best, masking the real problem because a > trackbar ought not play any role whatsoever in DW. > > BTW, > Lighten up on Mike. He is just exploring the possibilities. Of the > respondants on this board, he gives the most consistantly objective views, > and he is right far more often than he is wrong. > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:9T4_b.3604$yZ1.371@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to > find > > out - get it checked. > > > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears > so > > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and mechanics. > > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put the > > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on the > > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing in > on > > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go > hit > > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in the > > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, and > > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > > Dynatrac. > > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > > alright, > > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people > who > > have > > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. > > The > > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front > > with > > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > > track > > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. > I've > > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it > > comes > > > > to my rig. > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > news:4038C4C8.9F7976B4@sympatico.ca... > > > > > He has a custom front end that sounds like it wasn't built properly. > > > > > > > > > > The builder might not have known how to set the caster so just > > guessed. > > > > > He certainly didn't know how to put a steering stabilizer shock on > in > > > > > the correct place so that implies he guessed at everything.... > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Think of how the forks on a motorcycle are raked. A chopper goes > > > > straighat > > > > > > ahead really good, but can be a bitch to turn, and a racing bike > can > > > > turn on > > > > > > a dime, but the steering is very twitchy. The most significant > > > > difference in > > > > > > these examples is the rake of the forks, and this rake is similar > to > > the > > > > > > Caster angle. > > > > > > > > > > > > As I said earlier, caster typically does not play a large role in > > the > > > > > > adjustments of the front end geometry because it is pretty much > set > > > > during > > > > > > manufacturing of the axle. The spring perches define the caster > > angle. > > > > > > Assuming the axle is the right one, the caster angle should be > > right. Of > > > > > > course, with custom modifications - lift - the caster angle can > > change > > > > > > enough to become a player in DW. > > > > > > > > > > > > Caster angle is the imaginary line through the upper and lower > ball > > > > joints, > > > > > > and the center of the spindle. Properly set, the caster angle > should > > be > > > > > > about 7° towards the rear of the vehicle. That is, the upper ball > > joint > > > > > > should trail the lower by about 7°. Perhaps the number is a little > > bit > > > > > > different in your case, but greater angles will be more stable > than > > > > lesser > > > > > > angles. When the angle drops to about 4° or less, then the tires > > will > > > > search > > > > > > for the straight ahead position, and this sets up the DW symptoms. > > There > > > > is > > > > > > an easy test for Caster angle ... Go to an open area and make a > > Uturn, > > > > or a > > > > > > manuver that simulates what you might do when backing from a > parking > > > > stall. > > > > > > Turn the steering wheel fully to one stop, then begin going and > see > > if > > > > the > > > > > > wheel returns to center on its own, or if it remains in Turning > Mode > > and > > > > > > requires you to physically turn back to center. If you have to > drive > > it > > > > back > > > > > > to straight ahead, then your caster is not great enough, but if it > > wants > > > > to > > > > > > go to center on its own, then the caster is probably OK. > > > > > > > > > > > > In my motorcycle analogy, there are other geometry forces at play, > > so > > > > the > > > > > > analogy breaks down pretty quickly, but in general terms, it works > > > > pretty > > > > > > well. I am certain that my analogy will be corrected, but it works > > for > > > > now. > > > > > > > > > > > > My FSM says the spec for Caster angle is 6°. > > > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > > news:a5SZb.4126$aT1.454@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > > > > > > The ball joints appear to be good. I did the > > push-pull-raised-tire > > > > test > > > > > > and > > > > > > > it checked out Ok. All the rod ends are tight and lubed. I'll > > get > > > > the > > > > > > > caster checked out next week. Explain, if you will, why caster > > would > > > > be a > > > > > > > player in DW. This could be my problem. If the caster angle is > > off, > > > > > > > wouldn't this only cause the vehicle to pull to one side or the > > other? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > It was suggested to move the steering stabilizer from the drag > > link to > > > > the > > > > > > > tie rod. When I did this, I still got the same DW. I thought I > > felt > > > > a > > > > > > > little air in the stabilizer at the extended end while testing > it, > > and > > > > > > will > > > > > > > replace it as soon as I can find one. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Your track bar comment is noted. I'd like to leave it off all > > > > together > > > > > > > because real estate up front is a premium right now with the > > Dana60. > > > > But > > > > > > > will put it back on nice and tight and put the DW to the test > > again. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again, > > > > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message > > > > > > > news:103foc9kj445236@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > If all of that stuff is new, I would not think the steering > > > > stabalizer > > > > > > > would > > > > > > > > be so significant. Did you attempt the tests that I described? > > (If I > > > > > > > > described something incorrectly, did you try what might have > > been > > > > > > > suggested > > > > > > > > to correct me?) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If you suspect the track bar is worn, and causing a problem > with > > > > > > > looseness, > > > > > > > > then removing the trackbar altogether is not much of a > > confirmation > > > > > > test. > > > > > > > If > > > > > > > > yo had no trackbar, and complained of DW, then put the bar on > to > > see > > > > if > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > DW went away, then you would have a reasonable diagnostic > test. > > > > Taking > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > trackbar off is the same thing as having one on that had worn > > > > bushings. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > > > > news:nCwZb.3004$aT1.1407@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > > > > > > > > > It very well might be the steering stabilizer because > > everything > > > > else > > > > > > on > > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > front is new. All the steering components and entire front > > end is > > > > new > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod > & > > > > ends, > > > > > > drag > > > > > > > > > link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed > and > > > > tight. > > > > > > I > > > > > > > > just > > > > > > > > > put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what > > happens. > > > > > > I'll > > > > > > > > have > > > > > > > > > the caster checked too at one of these local garages and > shim > > it > > > > up if > > > > > > > > > needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the > DW > > in > > > > that > > > > > > > same > > > > > > > > > damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first > > > > thought. > > > > > > If > > > > > > > > she > > > > > > > > > passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on > the > > old > > > > > > > > steering > > > > > > > > > stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the > > frame to > > > > the > > > > > > > > drag > > > > > > > > > link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the > tie > > rod > > > > > > > instead > > > > > > > > > since it is "closer" to the steering. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for all the comments and info. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Terry > > > > > > > > > 92YJ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > > > > > > > news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message > > > > > > > > > > news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net... > > > > > > > > > > Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering > stabilzier" > > for > > > > > > > > > > every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem > > for a > > > > > > > > > > while but the underlying condition will just get worse, > make > > the > > > > > > > > > > NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and > wants > > to > > > > > > > > > > REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball > > joint or > > > > > > > > > > tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for > > some > > > > > > > > > > front end work. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll second that diagnosis. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar > and > > no > > > > DW > > > > > > > > > > experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I > > suspect > > > > the > > > > > > > > ball > > > > > > > > > > joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight > > ahead, > > > > and > > > > > > > it > > > > > > > > > > takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same > > > > > > direction. > > > > > > > > > During > > > > > > > > > > the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts > > > > looking > > > > > > for > > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up > > to > > > > where > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second > > tire > > > > then > > > > > > > > heads > > > > > > > > > > back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore > > > > because > > > > > > it > > > > > > > > has > > > > > > > > > > decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things > > spiral > > > > > > > downward > > > > > > > > > from > > > > > > > > > > there. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not > > > > adjustable > > > > > > in > > > > > > > a > > > > > > > > > > leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by > > shims, > > > > but > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > idea > > > > > > > > > > is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way > it > > > > > > positions > > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > spring perches, and the angle normally does not require > > > > adjustment > > > > > > as > > > > > > > > much > > > > > > > > > > as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster > > angle > > > > on > > > > > > > your > > > > > > > > > YJ > > > > > > > > > > is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the > > other > > > > > > > issues. > > > > > > > > > Ball > > > > > > > > > > joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball > Joint > > is > > > > the > > > > > > one > > > > > > > > > that > > > > > > > > > > you will most likely need to replace, and you should give > > > > serious > > > > > > > > > > consideration to replacing both of them even if only one > > passes > > > > the > > > > > > > test > > > > > > > > > for > > > > > > > > > > a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire > > off > > > > the > > > > > > > ground > > > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > > 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and > the > > > > bottom, > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > 2.) > > > > > > > > > > use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought > not > > move > > > > in > > > > > > > > either > > > > > > > > > > of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the > steering > > > > wheel > > > > > > > back > > > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > > forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no > > play > > > > in > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > tie > > > > > > > > > > rod ends. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and > > all of > > > > the > > > > > > > tie > > > > > > > > > rod > > > > > > > > > > ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with > > > > replacing > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of > > the > > > > ball > > > > > > > > joints > > > > > > > > > > or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all > > > > like-parts > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is > > only > > > > > > > > necessary > > > > > > > > > > (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The > > upper > > > > ball > > > > > > > > joints > > > > > > > > > > don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Well, if the caster is off I'll find out this week. I agree that perhaps
the track bar has been masking the caster problem all along. No confusion about the track bar and anti-sway bar. I have one of those on too (with the disconnects). I know what you're saying about Mike. He offers great information all the time and we all appreciate it. I certainly do. His info has helped me on more than one occasion. Thanks Mike!! I don't post too often in here, but hang out alot for the information. His (and your) posts have always been extremely helpful. I meant no offense to Mike or anybody else, just conversing as well as I know how over this darn computer. ;). Also know that I'm no expert on certain Jeepin' subjects (that's why I hang out here!), but I'm no greenhorn either and do keep intimately familiar with my old Jeep and how she handles, runs, etc, and don't take shortcuts when it comes to building her. It's a bad habit I can't seem to shake! Thanks, Terry. "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message news:103hpjbpf9ngj37@corp.supernews.com... > On another note, you keep using the term DW, and you seem to tie the > experience in with trackbar problems. The only influence the track bar will > have is on holding the entire front end in place. DW, by definition, is a > problem where the TIRES are working against each other and they set up a > harmonic vibration that we call DW. > > The trackbar ought not play a role in this sort of problem. > > But, what if the spring bushings or some other similar part was not working > properly? The track bar would serve to hold the front end together and mask > such a problem. When the trackbar had finally had enough of this abuse, all > hell would break loose, and we might describe the experience as DW. > > I just wanted to throw that out because you keep saying that all of steering > parts we have been talking about are new and serviceable. Perhaps these > parts are exactly as you said, and the trackbar does solve the problem. My > guess is that the trackbar is, at best, masking the real problem because a > trackbar ought not play any role whatsoever in DW. > > BTW, > Lighten up on Mike. He is just exploring the possibilities. Of the > respondants on this board, he gives the most consistantly objective views, > and he is right far more often than he is wrong. > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:9T4_b.3604$yZ1.371@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to > find > > out - get it checked. > > > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears > so > > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and mechanics. > > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put the > > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on the > > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing in > on > > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go > hit > > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in the > > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, and > > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > > Dynatrac. > > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > > alright, > > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people > who > > have > > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. > > The > > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front > > with > > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > > track > > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. > I've > > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it > > comes > > > > to my rig. > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > news:4038C4C8.9F7976B4@sympatico.ca... > > > > > He has a custom front end that sounds like it wasn't built properly. > > > > > > > > > > The builder might not have known how to set the caster so just > > guessed. > > > > > He certainly didn't know how to put a steering stabilizer shock on > in > > > > > the correct place so that implies he guessed at everything.... > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Think of how the forks on a motorcycle are raked. A chopper goes > > > > straighat > > > > > > ahead really good, but can be a bitch to turn, and a racing bike > can > > > > turn on > > > > > > a dime, but the steering is very twitchy. The most significant > > > > difference in > > > > > > these examples is the rake of the forks, and this rake is similar > to > > the > > > > > > Caster angle. > > > > > > > > > > > > As I said earlier, caster typically does not play a large role in > > the > > > > > > adjustments of the front end geometry because it is pretty much > set > > > > during > > > > > > manufacturing of the axle. The spring perches define the caster > > angle. > > > > > > Assuming the axle is the right one, the caster angle should be > > right. Of > > > > > > course, with custom modifications - lift - the caster angle can > > change > > > > > > enough to become a player in DW. > > > > > > > > > > > > Caster angle is the imaginary line through the upper and lower > ball > > > > joints, > > > > > > and the center of the spindle. Properly set, the caster angle > should > > be > > > > > > about 7° towards the rear of the vehicle. That is, the upper ball > > joint > > > > > > should trail the lower by about 7°. Perhaps the number is a little > > bit > > > > > > different in your case, but greater angles will be more stable > than > > > > lesser > > > > > > angles. When the angle drops to about 4° or less, then the tires > > will > > > > search > > > > > > for the straight ahead position, and this sets up the DW symptoms. > > There > > > > is > > > > > > an easy test for Caster angle ... Go to an open area and make a > > Uturn, > > > > or a > > > > > > manuver that simulates what you might do when backing from a > parking > > > > stall. > > > > > > Turn the steering wheel fully to one stop, then begin going and > see > > if > > > > the > > > > > > wheel returns to center on its own, or if it remains in Turning > Mode > > and > > > > > > requires you to physically turn back to center. If you have to > drive > > it > > > > back > > > > > > to straight ahead, then your caster is not great enough, but if it > > wants > > > > to > > > > > > go to center on its own, then the caster is probably OK. > > > > > > > > > > > > In my motorcycle analogy, there are other geometry forces at play, > > so > > > > the > > > > > > analogy breaks down pretty quickly, but in general terms, it works > > > > pretty > > > > > > well. I am certain that my analogy will be corrected, but it works > > for > > > > now. > > > > > > > > > > > > My FSM says the spec for Caster angle is 6°. > > > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > > news:a5SZb.4126$aT1.454@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > > > > > > The ball joints appear to be good. I did the > > push-pull-raised-tire > > > > test > > > > > > and > > > > > > > it checked out Ok. All the rod ends are tight and lubed. I'll > > get > > > > the > > > > > > > caster checked out next week. Explain, if you will, why caster > > would > > > > be a > > > > > > > player in DW. This could be my problem. If the caster angle is > > off, > > > > > > > wouldn't this only cause the vehicle to pull to one side or the > > other? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > It was suggested to move the steering stabilizer from the drag > > link to > > > > the > > > > > > > tie rod. When I did this, I still got the same DW. I thought I > > felt > > > > a > > > > > > > little air in the stabilizer at the extended end while testing > it, > > and > > > > > > will > > > > > > > replace it as soon as I can find one. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Your track bar comment is noted. I'd like to leave it off all > > > > together > > > > > > > because real estate up front is a premium right now with the > > Dana60. > > > > But > > > > > > > will put it back on nice and tight and put the DW to the test > > again. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again, > > > > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message > > > > > > > news:103foc9kj445236@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > If all of that stuff is new, I would not think the steering > > > > stabalizer > > > > > > > would > > > > > > > > be so significant. Did you attempt the tests that I described? > > (If I > > > > > > > > described something incorrectly, did you try what might have > > been > > > > > > > suggested > > > > > > > > to correct me?) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If you suspect the track bar is worn, and causing a problem > with > > > > > > > looseness, > > > > > > > > then removing the trackbar altogether is not much of a > > confirmation > > > > > > test. > > > > > > > If > > > > > > > > yo had no trackbar, and complained of DW, then put the bar on > to > > see > > > > if > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > DW went away, then you would have a reasonable diagnostic > test. > > > > Taking > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > trackbar off is the same thing as having one on that had worn > > > > bushings. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > > > > news:nCwZb.3004$aT1.1407@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > > > > > > > > > It very well might be the steering stabilizer because > > everything > > > > else > > > > > > on > > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > front is new. All the steering components and entire front > > end is > > > > new > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod > & > > > > ends, > > > > > > drag > > > > > > > > > link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed > and > > > > tight. > > > > > > I > > > > > > > > just > > > > > > > > > put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what > > happens. > > > > > > I'll > > > > > > > > have > > > > > > > > > the caster checked too at one of these local garages and > shim > > it > > > > up if > > > > > > > > > needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the > DW > > in > > > > that > > > > > > > same > > > > > > > > > damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first > > > > thought. > > > > > > If > > > > > > > > she > > > > > > > > > passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on > the > > old > > > > > > > > steering > > > > > > > > > stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the > > frame to > > > > the > > > > > > > > drag > > > > > > > > > link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the > tie > > rod > > > > > > > instead > > > > > > > > > since it is "closer" to the steering. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for all the comments and info. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Terry > > > > > > > > > 92YJ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > > > > > > > news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message > > > > > > > > > > news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net... > > > > > > > > > > Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering > stabilzier" > > for > > > > > > > > > > every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem > > for a > > > > > > > > > > while but the underlying condition will just get worse, > make > > the > > > > > > > > > > NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and > wants > > to > > > > > > > > > > REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball > > joint or > > > > > > > > > > tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for > > some > > > > > > > > > > front end work. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll second that diagnosis. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar > and > > no > > > > DW > > > > > > > > > > experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I > > suspect > > > > the > > > > > > > > ball > > > > > > > > > > joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight > > ahead, > > > > and > > > > > > > it > > > > > > > > > > takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same > > > > > > direction. > > > > > > > > > During > > > > > > > > > > the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts > > > > looking > > > > > > for > > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up > > to > > > > where > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second > > tire > > > > then > > > > > > > > heads > > > > > > > > > > back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore > > > > because > > > > > > it > > > > > > > > has > > > > > > > > > > decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things > > spiral > > > > > > > downward > > > > > > > > > from > > > > > > > > > > there. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not > > > > adjustable > > > > > > in > > > > > > > a > > > > > > > > > > leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by > > shims, > > > > but > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > idea > > > > > > > > > > is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way > it > > > > > > positions > > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > spring perches, and the angle normally does not require > > > > adjustment > > > > > > as > > > > > > > > much > > > > > > > > > > as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster > > angle > > > > on > > > > > > > your > > > > > > > > > YJ > > > > > > > > > > is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the > > other > > > > > > > issues. > > > > > > > > > Ball > > > > > > > > > > joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball > Joint > > is > > > > the > > > > > > one > > > > > > > > > that > > > > > > > > > > you will most likely need to replace, and you should give > > > > serious > > > > > > > > > > consideration to replacing both of them even if only one > > passes > > > > the > > > > > > > test > > > > > > > > > for > > > > > > > > > > a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire > > off > > > > the > > > > > > > ground > > > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > > 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and > the > > > > bottom, > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > 2.) > > > > > > > > > > use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought > not > > move > > > > in > > > > > > > > either > > > > > > > > > > of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the > steering > > > > wheel > > > > > > > back > > > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > > forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no > > play > > > > in > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > tie > > > > > > > > > > rod ends. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and > > all of > > > > the > > > > > > > tie > > > > > > > > > rod > > > > > > > > > > ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with > > > > replacing > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of > > the > > > > ball > > > > > > > > joints > > > > > > > > > > or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all > > > > like-parts > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is > > only > > > > > > > > necessary > > > > > > > > > > (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The > > upper > > > > ball > > > > > > > > joints > > > > > > > > > > don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Well, if the caster is off I'll find out this week. I agree that perhaps
the track bar has been masking the caster problem all along. No confusion about the track bar and anti-sway bar. I have one of those on too (with the disconnects). I know what you're saying about Mike. He offers great information all the time and we all appreciate it. I certainly do. His info has helped me on more than one occasion. Thanks Mike!! I don't post too often in here, but hang out alot for the information. His (and your) posts have always been extremely helpful. I meant no offense to Mike or anybody else, just conversing as well as I know how over this darn computer. ;). Also know that I'm no expert on certain Jeepin' subjects (that's why I hang out here!), but I'm no greenhorn either and do keep intimately familiar with my old Jeep and how she handles, runs, etc, and don't take shortcuts when it comes to building her. It's a bad habit I can't seem to shake! Thanks, Terry. "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message news:103hpjbpf9ngj37@corp.supernews.com... > On another note, you keep using the term DW, and you seem to tie the > experience in with trackbar problems. The only influence the track bar will > have is on holding the entire front end in place. DW, by definition, is a > problem where the TIRES are working against each other and they set up a > harmonic vibration that we call DW. > > The trackbar ought not play a role in this sort of problem. > > But, what if the spring bushings or some other similar part was not working > properly? The track bar would serve to hold the front end together and mask > such a problem. When the trackbar had finally had enough of this abuse, all > hell would break loose, and we might describe the experience as DW. > > I just wanted to throw that out because you keep saying that all of steering > parts we have been talking about are new and serviceable. Perhaps these > parts are exactly as you said, and the trackbar does solve the problem. My > guess is that the trackbar is, at best, masking the real problem because a > trackbar ought not play any role whatsoever in DW. > > BTW, > Lighten up on Mike. He is just exploring the possibilities. Of the > respondants on this board, he gives the most consistantly objective views, > and he is right far more often than he is wrong. > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:9T4_b.3604$yZ1.371@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to > find > > out - get it checked. > > > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears > so > > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and mechanics. > > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put the > > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on the > > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing in > on > > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go > hit > > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in the > > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, and > > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > > Dynatrac. > > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > > alright, > > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people > who > > have > > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. > > The > > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front > > with > > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > > track > > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. > I've > > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it > > comes > > > > to my rig. > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > news:4038C4C8.9F7976B4@sympatico.ca... > > > > > He has a custom front end that sounds like it wasn't built properly. > > > > > > > > > > The builder might not have known how to set the caster so just > > guessed. > > > > > He certainly didn't know how to put a steering stabilizer shock on > in > > > > > the correct place so that implies he guessed at everything.... > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Think of how the forks on a motorcycle are raked. A chopper goes > > > > straighat > > > > > > ahead really good, but can be a bitch to turn, and a racing bike > can > > > > turn on > > > > > > a dime, but the steering is very twitchy. The most significant > > > > difference in > > > > > > these examples is the rake of the forks, and this rake is similar > to > > the > > > > > > Caster angle. > > > > > > > > > > > > As I said earlier, caster typically does not play a large role in > > the > > > > > > adjustments of the front end geometry because it is pretty much > set > > > > during > > > > > > manufacturing of the axle. The spring perches define the caster > > angle. > > > > > > Assuming the axle is the right one, the caster angle should be > > right. Of > > > > > > course, with custom modifications - lift - the caster angle can > > change > > > > > > enough to become a player in DW. > > > > > > > > > > > > Caster angle is the imaginary line through the upper and lower > ball > > > > joints, > > > > > > and the center of the spindle. Properly set, the caster angle > should > > be > > > > > > about 7° towards the rear of the vehicle. That is, the upper ball > > joint > > > > > > should trail the lower by about 7°. Perhaps the number is a little > > bit > > > > > > different in your case, but greater angles will be more stable > than > > > > lesser > > > > > > angles. When the angle drops to about 4° or less, then the tires > > will > > > > search > > > > > > for the straight ahead position, and this sets up the DW symptoms. > > There > > > > is > > > > > > an easy test for Caster angle ... Go to an open area and make a > > Uturn, > > > > or a > > > > > > manuver that simulates what you might do when backing from a > parking > > > > stall. > > > > > > Turn the steering wheel fully to one stop, then begin going and > see > > if > > > > the > > > > > > wheel returns to center on its own, or if it remains in Turning > Mode > > and > > > > > > requires you to physically turn back to center. If you have to > drive > > it > > > > back > > > > > > to straight ahead, then your caster is not great enough, but if it > > wants > > > > to > > > > > > go to center on its own, then the caster is probably OK. > > > > > > > > > > > > In my motorcycle analogy, there are other geometry forces at play, > > so > > > > the > > > > > > analogy breaks down pretty quickly, but in general terms, it works > > > > pretty > > > > > > well. I am certain that my analogy will be corrected, but it works > > for > > > > now. > > > > > > > > > > > > My FSM says the spec for Caster angle is 6°. > > > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > > news:a5SZb.4126$aT1.454@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > > > > > > The ball joints appear to be good. I did the > > push-pull-raised-tire > > > > test > > > > > > and > > > > > > > it checked out Ok. All the rod ends are tight and lubed. I'll > > get > > > > the > > > > > > > caster checked out next week. Explain, if you will, why caster > > would > > > > be a > > > > > > > player in DW. This could be my problem. If the caster angle is > > off, > > > > > > > wouldn't this only cause the vehicle to pull to one side or the > > other? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > It was suggested to move the steering stabilizer from the drag > > link to > > > > the > > > > > > > tie rod. When I did this, I still got the same DW. I thought I > > felt > > > > a > > > > > > > little air in the stabilizer at the extended end while testing > it, > > and > > > > > > will > > > > > > > replace it as soon as I can find one. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Your track bar comment is noted. I'd like to leave it off all > > > > together > > > > > > > because real estate up front is a premium right now with the > > Dana60. > > > > But > > > > > > > will put it back on nice and tight and put the DW to the test > > again. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again, > > > > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message > > > > > > > news:103foc9kj445236@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > If all of that stuff is new, I would not think the steering > > > > stabalizer > > > > > > > would > > > > > > > > be so significant. Did you attempt the tests that I described? > > (If I > > > > > > > > described something incorrectly, did you try what might have > > been > > > > > > > suggested > > > > > > > > to correct me?) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If you suspect the track bar is worn, and causing a problem > with > > > > > > > looseness, > > > > > > > > then removing the trackbar altogether is not much of a > > confirmation > > > > > > test. > > > > > > > If > > > > > > > > yo had no trackbar, and complained of DW, then put the bar on > to > > see > > > > if > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > DW went away, then you would have a reasonable diagnostic > test. > > > > Taking > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > trackbar off is the same thing as having one on that had worn > > > > bushings. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Terry Jeffrey" <twjeffrey@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > > > > > > news:nCwZb.3004$aT1.1407@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > > > > > > > > > It very well might be the steering stabilizer because > > everything > > > > else > > > > > > on > > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > front is new. All the steering components and entire front > > end is > > > > new > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod > & > > > > ends, > > > > > > drag > > > > > > > > > link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed > and > > > > tight. > > > > > > I > > > > > > > > just > > > > > > > > > put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what > > happens. > > > > > > I'll > > > > > > > > have > > > > > > > > > the caster checked too at one of these local garages and > shim > > it > > > > up if > > > > > > > > > needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the > DW > > in > > > > that > > > > > > > same > > > > > > > > > damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first > > > > thought. > > > > > > If > > > > > > > > she > > > > > > > > > passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on > the > > old > > > > > > > > steering > > > > > > > > > stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the > > frame to > > > > the > > > > > > > > drag > > > > > > > > > link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the > tie > > rod > > > > > > > instead > > > > > > > > > since it is "closer" to the steering. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for all the comments and info. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Terry > > > > > > > > > 92YJ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > > > > > > > news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message > > > > > > > > > > news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net... > > > > > > > > > > Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering > stabilzier" > > for > > > > > > > > > > every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem > > for a > > > > > > > > > > while but the underlying condition will just get worse, > make > > the > > > > > > > > > > NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and > wants > > to > > > > > > > > > > REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball > > joint or > > > > > > > > > > tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for > > some > > > > > > > > > > front end work. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll second that diagnosis. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar > and > > no > > > > DW > > > > > > > > > > experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I > > suspect > > > > the > > > > > > > > ball > > > > > > > > > > joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight > > ahead, > > > > and > > > > > > > it > > > > > > > > > > takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same > > > > > > direction. > > > > > > > > > During > > > > > > > > > > the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts > > > > looking > > > > > > for > > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up > > to > > > > where > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second > > tire > > > > then > > > > > > > > heads > > > > > > > > > > back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore > > > > because > > > > > > it > > > > > > > > has > > > > > > > > > > decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things > > spiral > > > > > > > downward > > > > > > > > > from > > > > > > > > > > there. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not > > > > adjustable > > > > > > in > > > > > > > a > > > > > > > > > > leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by > > shims, > > > > but > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > idea > > > > > > > > > > is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way > it > > > > > > positions > > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > spring perches, and the angle normally does not require > > > > adjustment > > > > > > as > > > > > > > > much > > > > > > > > > > as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster > > angle > > > > on > > > > > > > your > > > > > > > > > YJ > > > > > > > > > > is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the > > other > > > > > > > issues. > > > > > > > > > Ball > > > > > > > > > > joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball > Joint > > is > > > > the > > > > > > one > > > > > > > > > that > > > > > > > > > > you will most likely need to replace, and you should give > > > > serious > > > > > > > > > > consideration to replacing both of them even if only one > > passes > > > > the > > > > > > > test > > > > > > > > > for > > > > > > > > > > a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire > > off > > > > the > > > > > > > ground > > > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > > 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and > the > > > > bottom, > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > 2.) > > > > > > > > > > use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought > not > > move > > > > in > > > > > > > > either > > > > > > > > > > of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the > steering > > > > wheel > > > > > > > back > > > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > > forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no > > play > > > > in > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > tie > > > > > > > > > > rod ends. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and > > all of > > > > the > > > > > > > tie > > > > > > > > > rod > > > > > > > > > > ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with > > > > replacing > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of > > the > > > > ball > > > > > > > > joints > > > > > > > > > > or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all > > > > like-parts > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is > > only > > > > > > > > necessary > > > > > > > > > > (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The > > upper > > > > ball > > > > > > > > joints > > > > > > > > > > don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Terry Jeffrey did pass the time by typing:
> Well, if the caster is off I'll find out this week. I agree that perhaps > the track bar has been masking the caster problem all along. No confusion > about the track bar and anti-sway bar. I have one of those on too (with the > disconnects). <massive snip> Also check the wheels for tread depth and roundness. I've had dw caused by wheels about 1/16 different in tread depth. (the tire store put the two "best" wheels up front) After putting the two most equal diameter wheels up front dw went away. Last cause was a thrown wheel weight. First cause was a stuck shock valve. (edelbrock IAS) -- DougW |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Terry Jeffrey did pass the time by typing:
> Well, if the caster is off I'll find out this week. I agree that perhaps > the track bar has been masking the caster problem all along. No confusion > about the track bar and anti-sway bar. I have one of those on too (with the > disconnects). <massive snip> Also check the wheels for tread depth and roundness. I've had dw caused by wheels about 1/16 different in tread depth. (the tire store put the two "best" wheels up front) After putting the two most equal diameter wheels up front dw went away. Last cause was a thrown wheel weight. First cause was a stuck shock valve. (edelbrock IAS) -- DougW |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Terry Jeffrey did pass the time by typing:
> Well, if the caster is off I'll find out this week. I agree that perhaps > the track bar has been masking the caster problem all along. No confusion > about the track bar and anti-sway bar. I have one of those on too (with the > disconnects). <massive snip> Also check the wheels for tread depth and roundness. I've had dw caused by wheels about 1/16 different in tread depth. (the tire store put the two "best" wheels up front) After putting the two most equal diameter wheels up front dw went away. Last cause was a thrown wheel weight. First cause was a stuck shock valve. (edelbrock IAS) -- DougW |
Re: A case of death wobble today
I'll do that. The 35" MT/Rs I have are getting old (about 2.5 yrs old) but
I'm keeping them until springtime when I will be in a better position to afford a new set. When I take her in for a caster check this week, I'll have the mechanic also take a look at the tires and wheel weights. The Jeep got new front Rancho RS9000X shocks when I did the front-end upgrade, but I'll check them out too. Thanks Doug. Terry. > Also check the wheels for tread depth and roundness. I've had dw caused by wheels > about 1/16 different in tread depth. (the tire store put the two "best" wheels up > front) After putting the two most equal diameter wheels up front dw went away. > > Last cause was a thrown wheel weight. > > First cause was a stuck shock valve. (edelbrock IAS) > > -- > DougW > > |
Re: A case of death wobble today
I'll do that. The 35" MT/Rs I have are getting old (about 2.5 yrs old) but
I'm keeping them until springtime when I will be in a better position to afford a new set. When I take her in for a caster check this week, I'll have the mechanic also take a look at the tires and wheel weights. The Jeep got new front Rancho RS9000X shocks when I did the front-end upgrade, but I'll check them out too. Thanks Doug. Terry. > Also check the wheels for tread depth and roundness. I've had dw caused by wheels > about 1/16 different in tread depth. (the tire store put the two "best" wheels up > front) After putting the two most equal diameter wheels up front dw went away. > > Last cause was a thrown wheel weight. > > First cause was a stuck shock valve. (edelbrock IAS) > > -- > DougW > > |
Re: A case of death wobble today
I'll do that. The 35" MT/Rs I have are getting old (about 2.5 yrs old) but
I'm keeping them until springtime when I will be in a better position to afford a new set. When I take her in for a caster check this week, I'll have the mechanic also take a look at the tires and wheel weights. The Jeep got new front Rancho RS9000X shocks when I did the front-end upgrade, but I'll check them out too. Thanks Doug. Terry. > Also check the wheels for tread depth and roundness. I've had dw caused by wheels > about 1/16 different in tread depth. (the tire store put the two "best" wheels up > front) After putting the two most equal diameter wheels up front dw went away. > > Last cause was a thrown wheel weight. > > First cause was a stuck shock valve. (edelbrock IAS) > > -- > DougW > > |
Re: A case of death wobble today
I wonder on the track bar.
Please fill me in on what you have so I can at least play 'devil's advocate' with all the info I can get.... ;-) A stock YJ with the soft flat leaf springs came with a track bar. The CJ's before it with stiffer arched springs didn't come with, nor do they need a track bar, nor do the lift kits call for one. You have 35's and a Dana 60 in the front???? I would then think you might just have a lift of some sorts??? Does the lift call for the track bar or is that something the shop added to make up for a possible death wobble issue rather than re-make the spring perches to get the caster right or to make up for a bad u-joint and axle angle issue? Do you have tall shackles per chance that the axle builders didn't know about. That can crap out the caster big time. Mike Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to find > out - get it checked. > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears so > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and mechanics. > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put the > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on the > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing in on > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go hit > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in the > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, and > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > Terry. > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > Mike > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > Dynatrac. > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > alright, > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people who > have > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. > The > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front > with > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > track > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. I've > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it > comes > > > to my rig. > > > > > > Regards, > > > Terry. <snip> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
I wonder on the track bar.
Please fill me in on what you have so I can at least play 'devil's advocate' with all the info I can get.... ;-) A stock YJ with the soft flat leaf springs came with a track bar. The CJ's before it with stiffer arched springs didn't come with, nor do they need a track bar, nor do the lift kits call for one. You have 35's and a Dana 60 in the front???? I would then think you might just have a lift of some sorts??? Does the lift call for the track bar or is that something the shop added to make up for a possible death wobble issue rather than re-make the spring perches to get the caster right or to make up for a bad u-joint and axle angle issue? Do you have tall shackles per chance that the axle builders didn't know about. That can crap out the caster big time. Mike Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to find > out - get it checked. > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears so > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and mechanics. > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put the > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on the > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing in on > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go hit > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in the > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, and > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > Terry. > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > Mike > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > Dynatrac. > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > alright, > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people who > have > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. > The > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front > with > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > track > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. I've > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it > comes > > > to my rig. > > > > > > Regards, > > > Terry. <snip> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
I wonder on the track bar.
Please fill me in on what you have so I can at least play 'devil's advocate' with all the info I can get.... ;-) A stock YJ with the soft flat leaf springs came with a track bar. The CJ's before it with stiffer arched springs didn't come with, nor do they need a track bar, nor do the lift kits call for one. You have 35's and a Dana 60 in the front???? I would then think you might just have a lift of some sorts??? Does the lift call for the track bar or is that something the shop added to make up for a possible death wobble issue rather than re-make the spring perches to get the caster right or to make up for a bad u-joint and axle angle issue? Do you have tall shackles per chance that the axle builders didn't know about. That can crap out the caster big time. Mike Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to find > out - get it checked. > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears so > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and mechanics. > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put the > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on the > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing in on > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go hit > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in the > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, and > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > Terry. > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > Mike > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > Dynatrac. > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > alright, > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people who > have > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. > The > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front > with > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > track > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. I've > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it > comes > > > to my rig. > > > > > > Regards, > > > Terry. <snip> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Mike,
A few specs on my 92YJ Jeep: - 35" tires - custom Dynatrac built D60 in both front and back - SUA with RE extreme-duty 4" lift springs - Confer 1" lift shackles in front - 1/2" MORE lift shackles in the back (levels it out nicely) - 1.25" JKS body lift - TJ flares - Hi-steer arms on the knuckles, tie rod mounted on the bottom - Adjustable JKS track bar. Total of 5 3/4 - 6.25" of lift (most suspension). When the front-end was built, they took all this info into consideration and I gave them several measurements (running width of existing drive axle, spring pads distance, etc, etc). Not to say the caster could still be off, though. This front-end has about 3000 miles on it, and no problems at all with this configuration until I encountered the DW the other day. At first inspection, I found the track bar loose on the frame side mount. I had been considering taking it off anyway, so at the time I temporarily removed it just to see how the road handling would be. I installed the front-end and track bar, springs, etc. No shop involved here. I got the aftermarket track bar to replace the original and have been using it for, oh, 6 years or so. Never a problem with it. Why a track bar? Because the YJ came with one originally. The spring company nor the Dynatrac recommended a track bar. If fact, Dynatrac suggested removing it. More than one person has advised me that I don't need the track bar, but I will be putting it back on anyway. Even though it may mask the real cause of the DW, I still take comfort in it being there! It is aligned in perfect angle with the drag link. I'll know this week if the caster is off and needs a shim or two. My guess is that's got to be the real problem, but we'll see. I bought this old Jeep new in late '91 and she now has over 203,000 miles on her and still runs great with original 4.0L and tranny. Thanks again Mike. Hey, I didn't mean to come across as a wise-a** last post to you. Some thought I sounded that way. Terry. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:40391BF7.72A9DD6C@sympatico.ca... > I wonder on the track bar. > > Please fill me in on what you have so I can at least play 'devil's > advocate' with all the info I can get.... ;-) > > A stock YJ with the soft flat leaf springs came with a track bar. > > The CJ's before it with stiffer arched springs didn't come with, nor do > they need a track bar, nor do the lift kits call for one. > > You have 35's and a Dana 60 in the front???? > > I would then think you might just have a lift of some sorts??? Does the > lift call for the track bar or is that something the shop added to make > up for a possible death wobble issue rather than re-make the spring > perches to get the caster right or to make up for a bad u-joint and axle > angle issue? > > Do you have tall shackles per chance that the axle builders didn't know > about. That can crap out the caster big time. > > Mike > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to find > > out - get it checked. > > > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears so > > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and mechanics. > > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put the > > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on the > > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing in on > > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go hit > > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in the > > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, and > > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > > > Terry. > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > > Dynatrac. > > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > > alright, > > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people who > > have > > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. > > The > > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front > > with > > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > > track > > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. I've > > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it > > comes > > > > to my rig. > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > Terry. > <snip> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Mike,
A few specs on my 92YJ Jeep: - 35" tires - custom Dynatrac built D60 in both front and back - SUA with RE extreme-duty 4" lift springs - Confer 1" lift shackles in front - 1/2" MORE lift shackles in the back (levels it out nicely) - 1.25" JKS body lift - TJ flares - Hi-steer arms on the knuckles, tie rod mounted on the bottom - Adjustable JKS track bar. Total of 5 3/4 - 6.25" of lift (most suspension). When the front-end was built, they took all this info into consideration and I gave them several measurements (running width of existing drive axle, spring pads distance, etc, etc). Not to say the caster could still be off, though. This front-end has about 3000 miles on it, and no problems at all with this configuration until I encountered the DW the other day. At first inspection, I found the track bar loose on the frame side mount. I had been considering taking it off anyway, so at the time I temporarily removed it just to see how the road handling would be. I installed the front-end and track bar, springs, etc. No shop involved here. I got the aftermarket track bar to replace the original and have been using it for, oh, 6 years or so. Never a problem with it. Why a track bar? Because the YJ came with one originally. The spring company nor the Dynatrac recommended a track bar. If fact, Dynatrac suggested removing it. More than one person has advised me that I don't need the track bar, but I will be putting it back on anyway. Even though it may mask the real cause of the DW, I still take comfort in it being there! It is aligned in perfect angle with the drag link. I'll know this week if the caster is off and needs a shim or two. My guess is that's got to be the real problem, but we'll see. I bought this old Jeep new in late '91 and she now has over 203,000 miles on her and still runs great with original 4.0L and tranny. Thanks again Mike. Hey, I didn't mean to come across as a wise-a** last post to you. Some thought I sounded that way. Terry. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:40391BF7.72A9DD6C@sympatico.ca... > I wonder on the track bar. > > Please fill me in on what you have so I can at least play 'devil's > advocate' with all the info I can get.... ;-) > > A stock YJ with the soft flat leaf springs came with a track bar. > > The CJ's before it with stiffer arched springs didn't come with, nor do > they need a track bar, nor do the lift kits call for one. > > You have 35's and a Dana 60 in the front???? > > I would then think you might just have a lift of some sorts??? Does the > lift call for the track bar or is that something the shop added to make > up for a possible death wobble issue rather than re-make the spring > perches to get the caster right or to make up for a bad u-joint and axle > angle issue? > > Do you have tall shackles per chance that the axle builders didn't know > about. That can crap out the caster big time. > > Mike > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to find > > out - get it checked. > > > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears so > > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and mechanics. > > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put the > > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on the > > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing in on > > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go hit > > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in the > > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, and > > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > > > Terry. > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > > Dynatrac. > > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > > alright, > > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people who > > have > > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. > > The > > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front > > with > > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > > track > > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. I've > > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it > > comes > > > > to my rig. > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > Terry. > <snip> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Mike,
A few specs on my 92YJ Jeep: - 35" tires - custom Dynatrac built D60 in both front and back - SUA with RE extreme-duty 4" lift springs - Confer 1" lift shackles in front - 1/2" MORE lift shackles in the back (levels it out nicely) - 1.25" JKS body lift - TJ flares - Hi-steer arms on the knuckles, tie rod mounted on the bottom - Adjustable JKS track bar. Total of 5 3/4 - 6.25" of lift (most suspension). When the front-end was built, they took all this info into consideration and I gave them several measurements (running width of existing drive axle, spring pads distance, etc, etc). Not to say the caster could still be off, though. This front-end has about 3000 miles on it, and no problems at all with this configuration until I encountered the DW the other day. At first inspection, I found the track bar loose on the frame side mount. I had been considering taking it off anyway, so at the time I temporarily removed it just to see how the road handling would be. I installed the front-end and track bar, springs, etc. No shop involved here. I got the aftermarket track bar to replace the original and have been using it for, oh, 6 years or so. Never a problem with it. Why a track bar? Because the YJ came with one originally. The spring company nor the Dynatrac recommended a track bar. If fact, Dynatrac suggested removing it. More than one person has advised me that I don't need the track bar, but I will be putting it back on anyway. Even though it may mask the real cause of the DW, I still take comfort in it being there! It is aligned in perfect angle with the drag link. I'll know this week if the caster is off and needs a shim or two. My guess is that's got to be the real problem, but we'll see. I bought this old Jeep new in late '91 and she now has over 203,000 miles on her and still runs great with original 4.0L and tranny. Thanks again Mike. Hey, I didn't mean to come across as a wise-a** last post to you. Some thought I sounded that way. Terry. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:40391BF7.72A9DD6C@sympatico.ca... > I wonder on the track bar. > > Please fill me in on what you have so I can at least play 'devil's > advocate' with all the info I can get.... ;-) > > A stock YJ with the soft flat leaf springs came with a track bar. > > The CJ's before it with stiffer arched springs didn't come with, nor do > they need a track bar, nor do the lift kits call for one. > > You have 35's and a Dana 60 in the front???? > > I would then think you might just have a lift of some sorts??? Does the > lift call for the track bar or is that something the shop added to make > up for a possible death wobble issue rather than re-make the spring > perches to get the caster right or to make up for a bad u-joint and axle > angle issue? > > Do you have tall shackles per chance that the axle builders didn't know > about. That can crap out the caster big time. > > Mike > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to find > > out - get it checked. > > > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears so > > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and mechanics. > > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put the > > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on the > > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing in on > > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go hit > > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in the > > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, and > > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > > > Terry. > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > > Dynatrac. > > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > > alright, > > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people who > > have > > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have it. > > The > > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up front > > with > > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > > track > > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. I've > > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when it > > comes > > > > to my rig. > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > Terry. > <snip> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Ok, so you have a custom, built all to crap unit, eh....
I have one pretty easy check 'maybe' for you... On a stock Jeep front end, the pinion face is straight up and down. So the proper caster angle corresponds to a straight up and down pinion. Mike Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > Mike, > > A few specs on my 92YJ Jeep: > > - 35" tires > - custom Dynatrac built D60 in both front and back > - SUA with RE extreme-duty 4" lift springs > - Confer 1" lift shackles in front > - 1/2" MORE lift shackles in the back (levels it out nicely) > - 1.25" JKS body lift > - TJ flares > - Hi-steer arms on the knuckles, tie rod mounted on the bottom > - Adjustable JKS track bar. > > Total of 5 3/4 - 6.25" of lift (most suspension). When the front-end was > built, they took all this info into consideration and I gave them several > measurements (running width of existing drive axle, spring pads distance, > etc, etc). Not to say the caster could still be off, though. This > front-end has about 3000 miles on it, and no problems at all with this > configuration until I encountered the DW the other day. At first > inspection, I found the track bar loose on the frame side mount. I had been > considering taking it off anyway, so at the time I temporarily removed it > just to see how the road handling would be. > > I installed the front-end and track bar, springs, etc. No shop involved > here. I got the aftermarket track bar to replace the original and have been > using it for, oh, 6 years or so. Never a problem with it. Why a track bar? > Because the YJ came with one originally. The spring company nor the > Dynatrac recommended a track bar. If fact, Dynatrac suggested removing it. > > More than one person has advised me that I don't need the track bar, but I > will be putting it back on anyway. Even though it may mask the real cause > of the DW, I still take comfort in it being there! It is aligned in perfect > angle with the drag link. I'll know this week if the caster is off and > needs a shim or two. My guess is that's got to be the real problem, but > we'll see. > > I bought this old Jeep new in late '91 and she now has over 203,000 miles on > her and still runs great with original 4.0L and tranny. > > Thanks again Mike. Hey, I didn't mean to come across as a wise-a** last > post to you. Some thought I sounded that way. > > Terry. > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:40391BF7.72A9DD6C@sympatico.ca... > > I wonder on the track bar. > > > > Please fill me in on what you have so I can at least play 'devil's > > advocate' with all the info I can get.... ;-) > > > > A stock YJ with the soft flat leaf springs came with a track bar. > > > > The CJ's before it with stiffer arched springs didn't come with, nor do > > they need a track bar, nor do the lift kits call for one. > > > > You have 35's and a Dana 60 in the front???? > > > > I would then think you might just have a lift of some sorts??? Does the > > lift call for the track bar or is that something the shop added to make > > up for a possible death wobble issue rather than re-make the spring > > perches to get the caster right or to make up for a bad u-joint and axle > > angle issue? > > > > Do you have tall shackles per chance that the axle builders didn't know > > about. That can crap out the caster big time. > > > > Mike > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > > > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > > > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to > find > > > out - get it checked. > > > > > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears > so > > > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and > mechanics. > > > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > > > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > > > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put > the > > > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > > > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on > the > > > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing > in on > > > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > > > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go > hit > > > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in > the > > > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > > > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, > and > > > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > > > > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > > > > > Terry. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built > item, > > > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > > > Dynatrac. > > > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > > > alright, > > > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people > who > > > have > > > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have > it. > > > The > > > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up > front > > > with > > > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > > > track > > > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. > I've > > > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when > it > > > comes > > > > > to my rig. > > > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > > Terry. > > <snip> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Ok, so you have a custom, built all to crap unit, eh....
I have one pretty easy check 'maybe' for you... On a stock Jeep front end, the pinion face is straight up and down. So the proper caster angle corresponds to a straight up and down pinion. Mike Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > Mike, > > A few specs on my 92YJ Jeep: > > - 35" tires > - custom Dynatrac built D60 in both front and back > - SUA with RE extreme-duty 4" lift springs > - Confer 1" lift shackles in front > - 1/2" MORE lift shackles in the back (levels it out nicely) > - 1.25" JKS body lift > - TJ flares > - Hi-steer arms on the knuckles, tie rod mounted on the bottom > - Adjustable JKS track bar. > > Total of 5 3/4 - 6.25" of lift (most suspension). When the front-end was > built, they took all this info into consideration and I gave them several > measurements (running width of existing drive axle, spring pads distance, > etc, etc). Not to say the caster could still be off, though. This > front-end has about 3000 miles on it, and no problems at all with this > configuration until I encountered the DW the other day. At first > inspection, I found the track bar loose on the frame side mount. I had been > considering taking it off anyway, so at the time I temporarily removed it > just to see how the road handling would be. > > I installed the front-end and track bar, springs, etc. No shop involved > here. I got the aftermarket track bar to replace the original and have been > using it for, oh, 6 years or so. Never a problem with it. Why a track bar? > Because the YJ came with one originally. The spring company nor the > Dynatrac recommended a track bar. If fact, Dynatrac suggested removing it. > > More than one person has advised me that I don't need the track bar, but I > will be putting it back on anyway. Even though it may mask the real cause > of the DW, I still take comfort in it being there! It is aligned in perfect > angle with the drag link. I'll know this week if the caster is off and > needs a shim or two. My guess is that's got to be the real problem, but > we'll see. > > I bought this old Jeep new in late '91 and she now has over 203,000 miles on > her and still runs great with original 4.0L and tranny. > > Thanks again Mike. Hey, I didn't mean to come across as a wise-a** last > post to you. Some thought I sounded that way. > > Terry. > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:40391BF7.72A9DD6C@sympatico.ca... > > I wonder on the track bar. > > > > Please fill me in on what you have so I can at least play 'devil's > > advocate' with all the info I can get.... ;-) > > > > A stock YJ with the soft flat leaf springs came with a track bar. > > > > The CJ's before it with stiffer arched springs didn't come with, nor do > > they need a track bar, nor do the lift kits call for one. > > > > You have 35's and a Dana 60 in the front???? > > > > I would then think you might just have a lift of some sorts??? Does the > > lift call for the track bar or is that something the shop added to make > > up for a possible death wobble issue rather than re-make the spring > > perches to get the caster right or to make up for a bad u-joint and axle > > angle issue? > > > > Do you have tall shackles per chance that the axle builders didn't know > > about. That can crap out the caster big time. > > > > Mike > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > > > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > > > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to > find > > > out - get it checked. > > > > > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears > so > > > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and > mechanics. > > > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > > > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > > > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put > the > > > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > > > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on > the > > > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing > in on > > > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > > > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go > hit > > > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in > the > > > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > > > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, > and > > > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > > > > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > > > > > Terry. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built > item, > > > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > > > Dynatrac. > > > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > > > alright, > > > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people > who > > > have > > > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have > it. > > > The > > > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up > front > > > with > > > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > > > track > > > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. > I've > > > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when > it > > > comes > > > > > to my rig. > > > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > > Terry. > > <snip> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Ok, so you have a custom, built all to crap unit, eh....
I have one pretty easy check 'maybe' for you... On a stock Jeep front end, the pinion face is straight up and down. So the proper caster angle corresponds to a straight up and down pinion. Mike Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > Mike, > > A few specs on my 92YJ Jeep: > > - 35" tires > - custom Dynatrac built D60 in both front and back > - SUA with RE extreme-duty 4" lift springs > - Confer 1" lift shackles in front > - 1/2" MORE lift shackles in the back (levels it out nicely) > - 1.25" JKS body lift > - TJ flares > - Hi-steer arms on the knuckles, tie rod mounted on the bottom > - Adjustable JKS track bar. > > Total of 5 3/4 - 6.25" of lift (most suspension). When the front-end was > built, they took all this info into consideration and I gave them several > measurements (running width of existing drive axle, spring pads distance, > etc, etc). Not to say the caster could still be off, though. This > front-end has about 3000 miles on it, and no problems at all with this > configuration until I encountered the DW the other day. At first > inspection, I found the track bar loose on the frame side mount. I had been > considering taking it off anyway, so at the time I temporarily removed it > just to see how the road handling would be. > > I installed the front-end and track bar, springs, etc. No shop involved > here. I got the aftermarket track bar to replace the original and have been > using it for, oh, 6 years or so. Never a problem with it. Why a track bar? > Because the YJ came with one originally. The spring company nor the > Dynatrac recommended a track bar. If fact, Dynatrac suggested removing it. > > More than one person has advised me that I don't need the track bar, but I > will be putting it back on anyway. Even though it may mask the real cause > of the DW, I still take comfort in it being there! It is aligned in perfect > angle with the drag link. I'll know this week if the caster is off and > needs a shim or two. My guess is that's got to be the real problem, but > we'll see. > > I bought this old Jeep new in late '91 and she now has over 203,000 miles on > her and still runs great with original 4.0L and tranny. > > Thanks again Mike. Hey, I didn't mean to come across as a wise-a** last > post to you. Some thought I sounded that way. > > Terry. > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:40391BF7.72A9DD6C@sympatico.ca... > > I wonder on the track bar. > > > > Please fill me in on what you have so I can at least play 'devil's > > advocate' with all the info I can get.... ;-) > > > > A stock YJ with the soft flat leaf springs came with a track bar. > > > > The CJ's before it with stiffer arched springs didn't come with, nor do > > they need a track bar, nor do the lift kits call for one. > > > > You have 35's and a Dana 60 in the front???? > > > > I would then think you might just have a lift of some sorts??? Does the > > lift call for the track bar or is that something the shop added to make > > up for a possible death wobble issue rather than re-make the spring > > perches to get the caster right or to make up for a bad u-joint and axle > > angle issue? > > > > Do you have tall shackles per chance that the axle builders didn't know > > about. That can crap out the caster big time. > > > > Mike > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > > > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > > > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to > find > > > out - get it checked. > > > > > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears > so > > > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and > mechanics. > > > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > > > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > > > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put > the > > > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > > > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on > the > > > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing > in on > > > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > > > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go > hit > > > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in > the > > > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > > > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, > and > > > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > > > > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > > > > > Terry. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built > item, > > > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > > > Dynatrac. > > > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > > > alright, > > > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people > who > > > have > > > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have > it. > > > The > > > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up > front > > > with > > > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > > > track > > > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. > I've > > > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when > it > > > comes > > > > > to my rig. > > > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > > Terry. > > <snip> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Could be other problems too, like one tire's not seated.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Mike Romain wrote: > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > Mike |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Could be other problems too, like one tire's not seated.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Mike Romain wrote: > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > Mike |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Could be other problems too, like one tire's not seated.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Mike Romain wrote: > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built item, > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > Mike |
Re: A case of death wobble today
AKA Roy, you haven't the balls to take this to a private e-mail. If you
had, you would use a real address, Like Real men that take responsibility for their actions, do. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Roy J wrote: ><Snipped babble> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
AKA Roy, you haven't the balls to take this to a private e-mail. If you
had, you would use a real address, Like Real men that take responsibility for their actions, do. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Roy J wrote: ><Snipped babble> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
AKA Roy, you haven't the balls to take this to a private e-mail. If you
had, you would use a real address, Like Real men that take responsibility for their actions, do. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Roy J wrote: ><Snipped babble> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Hi Mike,
They change that angle for sure and head it straight for the transfer. I'd say for four thousand bucks the tubes will be rewelded at the proper perch and castor angles. http://www.dynatrac.com/rock60.htm God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Mike Romain wrote: > > Ok, so you have a custom, built all to crap unit, eh.... > > I have one pretty easy check 'maybe' for you... > > On a stock Jeep front end, the pinion face is straight up and down. > > So the proper caster angle corresponds to a straight up and down pinion. > > Mike > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > Mike, > > > > A few specs on my 92YJ Jeep: > > > > - 35" tires > > - custom Dynatrac built D60 in both front and back > > - SUA with RE extreme-duty 4" lift springs > > - Confer 1" lift shackles in front > > - 1/2" MORE lift shackles in the back (levels it out nicely) > > - 1.25" JKS body lift > > - TJ flares > > - Hi-steer arms on the knuckles, tie rod mounted on the bottom > > - Adjustable JKS track bar. > > > > Total of 5 3/4 - 6.25" of lift (most suspension). When the front-end was > > built, they took all this info into consideration and I gave them several > > measurements (running width of existing drive axle, spring pads distance, > > etc, etc). Not to say the caster could still be off, though. This > > front-end has about 3000 miles on it, and no problems at all with this > > configuration until I encountered the DW the other day. At first > > inspection, I found the track bar loose on the frame side mount. I had been > > considering taking it off anyway, so at the time I temporarily removed it > > just to see how the road handling would be. > > > > I installed the front-end and track bar, springs, etc. No shop involved > > here. I got the aftermarket track bar to replace the original and have been > > using it for, oh, 6 years or so. Never a problem with it. Why a track bar? > > Because the YJ came with one originally. The spring company nor the > > Dynatrac recommended a track bar. If fact, Dynatrac suggested removing it. > > > > More than one person has advised me that I don't need the track bar, but I > > will be putting it back on anyway. Even though it may mask the real cause > > of the DW, I still take comfort in it being there! It is aligned in perfect > > angle with the drag link. I'll know this week if the caster is off and > > needs a shim or two. My guess is that's got to be the real problem, but > > we'll see. > > > > I bought this old Jeep new in late '91 and she now has over 203,000 miles on > > her and still runs great with original 4.0L and tranny. > > > > Thanks again Mike. Hey, I didn't mean to come across as a wise-a** last > > post to you. Some thought I sounded that way. > > > > Terry. > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:40391BF7.72A9DD6C@sympatico.ca... > > > I wonder on the track bar. > > > > > > Please fill me in on what you have so I can at least play 'devil's > > > advocate' with all the info I can get.... ;-) > > > > > > A stock YJ with the soft flat leaf springs came with a track bar. > > > > > > The CJ's before it with stiffer arched springs didn't come with, nor do > > > they need a track bar, nor do the lift kits call for one. > > > > > > You have 35's and a Dana 60 in the front???? > > > > > > I would then think you might just have a lift of some sorts??? Does the > > > lift call for the track bar or is that something the shop added to make > > > up for a possible death wobble issue rather than re-make the spring > > > perches to get the caster right or to make up for a bad u-joint and axle > > > angle issue? > > > > > > Do you have tall shackles per chance that the axle builders didn't know > > > about. That can crap out the caster big time. > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > > > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > > > > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > > > > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to > > find > > > > out - get it checked. > > > > > > > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears > > so > > > > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and > > mechanics. > > > > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > > > > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > > > > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put > > the > > > > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > > > > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on > > the > > > > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing > > in on > > > > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > > > > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go > > hit > > > > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in > > the > > > > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > > > > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, > > and > > > > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > > > > > > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > > > > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > > > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built > > item, > > > > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > > > > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > > > > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > > > > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > > > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > > > > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > > > > Dynatrac. > > > > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > > > > alright, > > > > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people > > who > > > > have > > > > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have > > it. > > > > The > > > > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up > > front > > > > with > > > > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > > > > track > > > > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. > > I've > > > > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when > > it > > > > comes > > > > > > to my rig. > > > > > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > > > Terry. > > > <snip> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Hi Mike,
They change that angle for sure and head it straight for the transfer. I'd say for four thousand bucks the tubes will be rewelded at the proper perch and castor angles. http://www.dynatrac.com/rock60.htm God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Mike Romain wrote: > > Ok, so you have a custom, built all to crap unit, eh.... > > I have one pretty easy check 'maybe' for you... > > On a stock Jeep front end, the pinion face is straight up and down. > > So the proper caster angle corresponds to a straight up and down pinion. > > Mike > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > Mike, > > > > A few specs on my 92YJ Jeep: > > > > - 35" tires > > - custom Dynatrac built D60 in both front and back > > - SUA with RE extreme-duty 4" lift springs > > - Confer 1" lift shackles in front > > - 1/2" MORE lift shackles in the back (levels it out nicely) > > - 1.25" JKS body lift > > - TJ flares > > - Hi-steer arms on the knuckles, tie rod mounted on the bottom > > - Adjustable JKS track bar. > > > > Total of 5 3/4 - 6.25" of lift (most suspension). When the front-end was > > built, they took all this info into consideration and I gave them several > > measurements (running width of existing drive axle, spring pads distance, > > etc, etc). Not to say the caster could still be off, though. This > > front-end has about 3000 miles on it, and no problems at all with this > > configuration until I encountered the DW the other day. At first > > inspection, I found the track bar loose on the frame side mount. I had been > > considering taking it off anyway, so at the time I temporarily removed it > > just to see how the road handling would be. > > > > I installed the front-end and track bar, springs, etc. No shop involved > > here. I got the aftermarket track bar to replace the original and have been > > using it for, oh, 6 years or so. Never a problem with it. Why a track bar? > > Because the YJ came with one originally. The spring company nor the > > Dynatrac recommended a track bar. If fact, Dynatrac suggested removing it. > > > > More than one person has advised me that I don't need the track bar, but I > > will be putting it back on anyway. Even though it may mask the real cause > > of the DW, I still take comfort in it being there! It is aligned in perfect > > angle with the drag link. I'll know this week if the caster is off and > > needs a shim or two. My guess is that's got to be the real problem, but > > we'll see. > > > > I bought this old Jeep new in late '91 and she now has over 203,000 miles on > > her and still runs great with original 4.0L and tranny. > > > > Thanks again Mike. Hey, I didn't mean to come across as a wise-a** last > > post to you. Some thought I sounded that way. > > > > Terry. > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:40391BF7.72A9DD6C@sympatico.ca... > > > I wonder on the track bar. > > > > > > Please fill me in on what you have so I can at least play 'devil's > > > advocate' with all the info I can get.... ;-) > > > > > > A stock YJ with the soft flat leaf springs came with a track bar. > > > > > > The CJ's before it with stiffer arched springs didn't come with, nor do > > > they need a track bar, nor do the lift kits call for one. > > > > > > You have 35's and a Dana 60 in the front???? > > > > > > I would then think you might just have a lift of some sorts??? Does the > > > lift call for the track bar or is that something the shop added to make > > > up for a possible death wobble issue rather than re-make the spring > > > perches to get the caster right or to make up for a bad u-joint and axle > > > angle issue? > > > > > > Do you have tall shackles per chance that the axle builders didn't know > > > about. That can crap out the caster big time. > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > > > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > > > > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > > > > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to > > find > > > > out - get it checked. > > > > > > > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears > > so > > > > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and > > mechanics. > > > > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > > > > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > > > > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put > > the > > > > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > > > > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on > > the > > > > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing > > in on > > > > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > > > > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go > > hit > > > > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in > > the > > > > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > > > > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, > > and > > > > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > > > > > > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > > > > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > > > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built > > item, > > > > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > > > > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > > > > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > > > > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > > > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > > > > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > > > > Dynatrac. > > > > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > > > > alright, > > > > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people > > who > > > > have > > > > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have > > it. > > > > The > > > > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up > > front > > > > with > > > > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > > > > track > > > > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. > > I've > > > > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when > > it > > > > comes > > > > > > to my rig. > > > > > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > > > Terry. > > > <snip> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Hi Mike,
They change that angle for sure and head it straight for the transfer. I'd say for four thousand bucks the tubes will be rewelded at the proper perch and castor angles. http://www.dynatrac.com/rock60.htm God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Mike Romain wrote: > > Ok, so you have a custom, built all to crap unit, eh.... > > I have one pretty easy check 'maybe' for you... > > On a stock Jeep front end, the pinion face is straight up and down. > > So the proper caster angle corresponds to a straight up and down pinion. > > Mike > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > Mike, > > > > A few specs on my 92YJ Jeep: > > > > - 35" tires > > - custom Dynatrac built D60 in both front and back > > - SUA with RE extreme-duty 4" lift springs > > - Confer 1" lift shackles in front > > - 1/2" MORE lift shackles in the back (levels it out nicely) > > - 1.25" JKS body lift > > - TJ flares > > - Hi-steer arms on the knuckles, tie rod mounted on the bottom > > - Adjustable JKS track bar. > > > > Total of 5 3/4 - 6.25" of lift (most suspension). When the front-end was > > built, they took all this info into consideration and I gave them several > > measurements (running width of existing drive axle, spring pads distance, > > etc, etc). Not to say the caster could still be off, though. This > > front-end has about 3000 miles on it, and no problems at all with this > > configuration until I encountered the DW the other day. At first > > inspection, I found the track bar loose on the frame side mount. I had been > > considering taking it off anyway, so at the time I temporarily removed it > > just to see how the road handling would be. > > > > I installed the front-end and track bar, springs, etc. No shop involved > > here. I got the aftermarket track bar to replace the original and have been > > using it for, oh, 6 years or so. Never a problem with it. Why a track bar? > > Because the YJ came with one originally. The spring company nor the > > Dynatrac recommended a track bar. If fact, Dynatrac suggested removing it. > > > > More than one person has advised me that I don't need the track bar, but I > > will be putting it back on anyway. Even though it may mask the real cause > > of the DW, I still take comfort in it being there! It is aligned in perfect > > angle with the drag link. I'll know this week if the caster is off and > > needs a shim or two. My guess is that's got to be the real problem, but > > we'll see. > > > > I bought this old Jeep new in late '91 and she now has over 203,000 miles on > > her and still runs great with original 4.0L and tranny. > > > > Thanks again Mike. Hey, I didn't mean to come across as a wise-a** last > > post to you. Some thought I sounded that way. > > > > Terry. > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:40391BF7.72A9DD6C@sympatico.ca... > > > I wonder on the track bar. > > > > > > Please fill me in on what you have so I can at least play 'devil's > > > advocate' with all the info I can get.... ;-) > > > > > > A stock YJ with the soft flat leaf springs came with a track bar. > > > > > > The CJ's before it with stiffer arched springs didn't come with, nor do > > > they need a track bar, nor do the lift kits call for one. > > > > > > You have 35's and a Dana 60 in the front???? > > > > > > I would then think you might just have a lift of some sorts??? Does the > > > lift call for the track bar or is that something the shop added to make > > > up for a possible death wobble issue rather than re-make the spring > > > perches to get the caster right or to make up for a bad u-joint and axle > > > angle issue? > > > > > > Do you have tall shackles per chance that the axle builders didn't know > > > about. That can crap out the caster big time. > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > > > Thanks Mike. You might be right in that the caster wasn't set correctly > > > > when built. I certainly intend to find out this week. Being built by > > > > Dynatrac, though, it's hard to believe it isn't right. But one way to > > find > > > > out - get it checked. > > > > > > > > About the track bar and steering stabilizer. It's amazing how one hears > > so > > > > many conflicting suggestions from other Jeeping individuals and > > mechanics. > > > > But I realize what works or eliminates a problem for one might not > > > > necessarily be the solution for another. Along with you and another > > > > experienced Jeeping fellow I know and trust says without a doubt, put > > the > > > > track bar back on, which I intend to do today. One thing for sure - I > > > > didn't experience the DW until I discovered the track bar was loose on > > the > > > > frame side mount. Instead of removing the loose track bar and zeroing > > in on > > > > the stabilizer and/or caster as the culprit, my first (and easiest) DW > > > > "test" probably should have been to tighten the track bar back up and go > > hit > > > > that same bumpy road again to see if the DW was gone. I'll comment in > > the > > > > thread how this test goes this evening (only if I get around to doing it > > > > today -- I busted up my left hand some working on the house yesterday, > > and > > > > swollen like it is at the moment isn't feeling up to the task!). > > > > > > > > Thank again. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. > > > > > > > > Terry. > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > news:4038D1A5.86262FC0@sympatico.ca... > > > > > When I see one thing wrong on a 'professionally' or backyard built > > item, > > > > > that implies the rest is shaky at best. > > > > > > > > > > Death wobble doesn't just happen! > > > > > > > > > > Something is either broken or not built correctly. > > > > > > > > > > You say nothing is broken, then that only leaves me with one other > > > > > conclusion, it is built wrong. > > > > > > > > > > I mean really. That is far more than just a 'guess'. > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > Terry Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > No, you are guessing. The front end is professionally built by > > > > Dynatrac. > > > > > > Everything is tight and fits correctly. I'm betting the caster is > > > > alright, > > > > > > but will get it checked anyway. I've also known quite a few people > > who > > > > have > > > > > > placed the steering stabilizer onto the drag link just like I have > > it. > > > > The > > > > > > reason it is on the drag link is because real estate is tight up > > front > > > > with > > > > > > the D60 and placing it on the tie rod initially interfered with the > > > > track > > > > > > bar. The track bar is going back on today. > > > > > > > > > > > > If you have a question about my rig, feel free to ask me about it. > > I've > > > > > > been Jeeping for many years and don't guess or take short cuts when > > it > > > > comes > > > > > > to my rig. > > > > > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > > > Terry. > > > <snip> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Sorry Bill, until YOU take reponsibilty for YOUR actions, you
will have to simmer in your own stew. And you appear to be simmering pretty good. I used to have the real address until the Sven virus hit me with 4mb of crap per HOUR. Which of course took my e-mail down pretty solid after 9 years on the same name. So I will NEVER put my e-mail address in a public forum again. Sign of the times I guess. :( I'd suggest you wait for Terry Jeffry (the original poster) has his front end checked out. If an INDEPENDENT mechanic/shop checks out the massive amount of work that was done on the OP's front end and the ONLY thing that is wrong is the stabilzer, I will gladly appolgize for aggrevating you so much. And then I will repeat my comment that a stabilzer just masks the underlying problem. Cheers. L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote: > AKA Roy, you haven't the balls to take this to a private e-mail. If you > had, you would use a real address, Like Real men that take > responsibility for their actions, do. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > Roy J wrote: > >><Snipped babble> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Sorry Bill, until YOU take reponsibilty for YOUR actions, you
will have to simmer in your own stew. And you appear to be simmering pretty good. I used to have the real address until the Sven virus hit me with 4mb of crap per HOUR. Which of course took my e-mail down pretty solid after 9 years on the same name. So I will NEVER put my e-mail address in a public forum again. Sign of the times I guess. :( I'd suggest you wait for Terry Jeffry (the original poster) has his front end checked out. If an INDEPENDENT mechanic/shop checks out the massive amount of work that was done on the OP's front end and the ONLY thing that is wrong is the stabilzer, I will gladly appolgize for aggrevating you so much. And then I will repeat my comment that a stabilzer just masks the underlying problem. Cheers. L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote: > AKA Roy, you haven't the balls to take this to a private e-mail. If you > had, you would use a real address, Like Real men that take > responsibility for their actions, do. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > Roy J wrote: > >><Snipped babble> |
Re: A case of death wobble today
Sorry Bill, until YOU take reponsibilty for YOUR actions, you
will have to simmer in your own stew. And you appear to be simmering pretty good. I used to have the real address until the Sven virus hit me with 4mb of crap per HOUR. Which of course took my e-mail down pretty solid after 9 years on the same name. So I will NEVER put my e-mail address in a public forum again. Sign of the times I guess. :( I'd suggest you wait for Terry Jeffry (the original poster) has his front end checked out. If an INDEPENDENT mechanic/shop checks out the massive amount of work that was done on the OP's front end and the ONLY thing that is wrong is the stabilzer, I will gladly appolgize for aggrevating you so much. And then I will repeat my comment that a stabilzer just masks the underlying problem. Cheers. L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote: > AKA Roy, you haven't the balls to take this to a private e-mail. If you > had, you would use a real address, Like Real men that take > responsibility for their actions, do. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > Roy J wrote: > >><Snipped babble> |
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