ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3FEC8E20.DB1D8ADC@sympatico.ca...
> > ..... We put our beers on the air
> > filter and it didn't shake or bubble them when turning 750 rpm....
>
> Excellent scientific test!!!

Works every time!

BUT! If I need to set it on for the emissions sniffer, I have to lean
it enough that the beer will start growing bubbles on the side of the
bottle for the sniffer to like it. The long 6 is supposed to be a bit
of a 'thumper' engine. It needs bubbles in the beer to pass....

If it just purrs at 750 rpm, it will be running a bit too rich for the
sniffer.

>
> >
> > Clean it and put a kit in with every major tune or every set of plugs,
> > change the gas filter every year and make sure it is in right side up.
> > It has to be level with the center outlet going to the carb and the
> > return line hooked to the top outlet. The return line has to be on top
> > or gas will just syphon back to the tank making it not want to cold
> > start.
>
> What kit are you referring to Mike? And is that something Autozone will
> carry? I'm getting ready to do that procedure you refered to this afternoon.
> You don't have a schematic of the carb do you? I'm trying to picture this
> choke linkage and what side of the carb it's on. Says something about
> drilling out a rivet...and without removing the carb I take it that it is on
> the driver's side.
> Thanks again!
> Allen

Yes autozone should have the kits. Just a basic Carb Kit. They come
with all the gaskets and a new float needle and seat and a new
accelerator pump.

The linkage that gets sticky is the plastic step thingie that the choke
uses for the fast idle. It just plain gets dirty on the pivot point.
WD40 is a good cleaner, but a carb cleaner spray is better, the real
cleaner doesn't leave junk behind to attract more dirt.

If you don't have to unscrew some of the parts to clean them when
installing a kit, then DON'T!

A lot of the adjustments given in the instructions for the kit are not
needed. Most of the carb can come apart without unscrewing settings
just to clean it.

Some things you must unscrew like the idle Jets, but you just count the
turns as you screw all of them in tight 'before' screwing them all the
way out. That way when you put it back, you just screw it all the way
tight again and back off the screws the same as they were.

As you commented, it worked great a year ago, now it is time for a clean
and it will work great at the same settings as last time it was cleaned.

Trying to mess with settings to make up for dirt is a big pain in the
butt, it will never stay stable and isn't the right way to do it except
for a trail fix to keep you running.

I wouldn't mind trying to help you put a kit in it via email. I do have
some photos here showing the parts and what not to mess with or I can
take a digital photo of some directions I have here to refer to.

Mike

>
> >>
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks Mike.
> > > The funny thing is when I bought it in September...it idled excellent. I
> > > mean the thing ran great and I was so suprised because I've heard horror
> > > stories about the 258s. Now that the weather has gotten colder...the
> idle on
> > > this thing is crap...mostly runs WAY too high and on occasion will click
> > > down and run so low it'll stall. Even when it's completely warmed
> up...does
> > > the same thing. And doesn't the Weber replacement do away with the 02
> sensor
> > > and computer?? Not sure on that one. I'm looking for the most simple
> swap
> > > possible..the MC2100 looks a bit troublesome for a guy who knows jack
> about
> > > carbs (ME!).
> > > Allen
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3FEC73FA.84973ACA@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You have a butchered wiring and computer setup that is going to run
> like
> > > > crap until you get it sorted out no matter what carb is on it.
> > > >
> > > > Stock the idle mix and half those vacuum lines and solenoids are
> > > > computer controlled.
> > > >
> > > > With no O2 sensor, the computer is stuck in limp home mode which
> clamps
> > > > down on the mix and the timing advance.
> > > >
> > > > I would recommend you at least put the computer out of your misery so
> > > > you can start to make sense of the rest of the system.
> > > >
> > > > That Carter carb you have on there is a very nice carb when it is
> tuned
> > > > up and clean. Mine goes like a scalded cat with just an Accel coil
> and
> > > > stock everything else. (no computer) I get a nice 19 US mpg and she
> > > > will easily bury the spedo in 4th.
> > > >
> > > > Carbs do take some tweaking to get them to run right. That goes for
> all
> > > > carbs, so if you can't get the Carter running, not likely you will
> have
> > > > any luck with any other carb either.
> > > >
> > > > Carbs are also supposed to get a kit put in them every time you change
> > > > your spark plugs according to the CJ owners manual. Do you know when
> > > > the last kit went in yours or when the last plugs went in? Kits are
> > > > less than $20.00 and are easy to put in.
> > > >
> > > > Too bad you don't live close to me. I have helped 3 people put in
> kits
> > > > and kill the computers in the last couple months.
> > > >
> > > > Things like the charcoal canister, PCV, EGR and air filter flaps are
> all
> > > > needed parts you cannot take off. The rest is mostly junk.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > My 83 CJ7 has given up the ghost on the carb. I'm pretty sure it's a
> > > > > carter....anyway to definitively tell? Anyway..it's a 258 stock
> > > motor...the
> > > > > only bad thing is the PO disconnected the 02 sensor during a YJ tub
> > > > > swap..there are a few things I can't find at the moment when it
> comes to
> > > > > wiring inside the engine bay. The motor runs great when tooling down
> the
> > > > > road but I can't get it to idle right. The choke wants to either
> idle
> > > WAY
> > > > > high...or so low it stalls.
> > > > > Question is what carb would you recommend replacing it with and what
> do
> > > I do
> > > > > with all this emissions crap like the charcoal canister....or does
> it
> > > > > matter...I think there are a few hoses coming from the carb that
> have to
> > > do
> > > > > with emissions. Any write ups would be great.
> > > > > Allen

 

ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3FEC8E20.DB1D8ADC@sympatico.ca...
> > ..... We put our beers on the air
> > filter and it didn't shake or bubble them when turning 750 rpm....
>
> Excellent scientific test!!!

Works every time!

BUT! If I need to set it on for the emissions sniffer, I have to lean
it enough that the beer will start growing bubbles on the side of the
bottle for the sniffer to like it. The long 6 is supposed to be a bit
of a 'thumper' engine. It needs bubbles in the beer to pass....

If it just purrs at 750 rpm, it will be running a bit too rich for the
sniffer.

>
> >
> > Clean it and put a kit in with every major tune or every set of plugs,
> > change the gas filter every year and make sure it is in right side up.
> > It has to be level with the center outlet going to the carb and the
> > return line hooked to the top outlet. The return line has to be on top
> > or gas will just syphon back to the tank making it not want to cold
> > start.
>
> What kit are you referring to Mike? And is that something Autozone will
> carry? I'm getting ready to do that procedure you refered to this afternoon.
> You don't have a schematic of the carb do you? I'm trying to picture this
> choke linkage and what side of the carb it's on. Says something about
> drilling out a rivet...and without removing the carb I take it that it is on
> the driver's side.
> Thanks again!
> Allen

Yes autozone should have the kits. Just a basic Carb Kit. They come
with all the gaskets and a new float needle and seat and a new
accelerator pump.

The linkage that gets sticky is the plastic step thingie that the choke
uses for the fast idle. It just plain gets dirty on the pivot point.
WD40 is a good cleaner, but a carb cleaner spray is better, the real
cleaner doesn't leave junk behind to attract more dirt.

If you don't have to unscrew some of the parts to clean them when
installing a kit, then DON'T!

A lot of the adjustments given in the instructions for the kit are not
needed. Most of the carb can come apart without unscrewing settings
just to clean it.

Some things you must unscrew like the idle Jets, but you just count the
turns as you screw all of them in tight 'before' screwing them all the
way out. That way when you put it back, you just screw it all the way
tight again and back off the screws the same as they were.

As you commented, it worked great a year ago, now it is time for a clean
and it will work great at the same settings as last time it was cleaned.

Trying to mess with settings to make up for dirt is a big pain in the
butt, it will never stay stable and isn't the right way to do it except
for a trail fix to keep you running.

I wouldn't mind trying to help you put a kit in it via email. I do have
some photos here showing the parts and what not to mess with or I can
take a digital photo of some directions I have here to refer to.

Mike

>
> >>
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks Mike.
> > > The funny thing is when I bought it in September...it idled excellent. I
> > > mean the thing ran great and I was so suprised because I've heard horror
> > > stories about the 258s. Now that the weather has gotten colder...the
> idle on
> > > this thing is crap...mostly runs WAY too high and on occasion will click
> > > down and run so low it'll stall. Even when it's completely warmed
> up...does
> > > the same thing. And doesn't the Weber replacement do away with the 02
> sensor
> > > and computer?? Not sure on that one. I'm looking for the most simple
> swap
> > > possible..the MC2100 looks a bit troublesome for a guy who knows jack
> about
> > > carbs (ME!).
> > > Allen
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3FEC73FA.84973ACA@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You have a butchered wiring and computer setup that is going to run
> like
> > > > crap until you get it sorted out no matter what carb is on it.
> > > >
> > > > Stock the idle mix and half those vacuum lines and solenoids are
> > > > computer controlled.
> > > >
> > > > With no O2 sensor, the computer is stuck in limp home mode which
> clamps
> > > > down on the mix and the timing advance.
> > > >
> > > > I would recommend you at least put the computer out of your misery so
> > > > you can start to make sense of the rest of the system.
> > > >
> > > > That Carter carb you have on there is a very nice carb when it is
> tuned
> > > > up and clean. Mine goes like a scalded cat with just an Accel coil
> and
> > > > stock everything else. (no computer) I get a nice 19 US mpg and she
> > > > will easily bury the spedo in 4th.
> > > >
> > > > Carbs do take some tweaking to get them to run right. That goes for
> all
> > > > carbs, so if you can't get the Carter running, not likely you will
> have
> > > > any luck with any other carb either.
> > > >
> > > > Carbs are also supposed to get a kit put in them every time you change
> > > > your spark plugs according to the CJ owners manual. Do you know when
> > > > the last kit went in yours or when the last plugs went in? Kits are
> > > > less than $20.00 and are easy to put in.
> > > >
> > > > Too bad you don't live close to me. I have helped 3 people put in
> kits
> > > > and kill the computers in the last couple months.
> > > >
> > > > Things like the charcoal canister, PCV, EGR and air filter flaps are
> all
> > > > needed parts you cannot take off. The rest is mostly junk.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > My 83 CJ7 has given up the ghost on the carb. I'm pretty sure it's a
> > > > > carter....anyway to definitively tell? Anyway..it's a 258 stock
> > > motor...the
> > > > > only bad thing is the PO disconnected the 02 sensor during a YJ tub
> > > > > swap..there are a few things I can't find at the moment when it
> comes to
> > > > > wiring inside the engine bay. The motor runs great when tooling down
> the
> > > > > road but I can't get it to idle right. The choke wants to either
> idle
> > > WAY
> > > > > high...or so low it stalls.
> > > > > Question is what carb would you recommend replacing it with and what
> do
> > > I do
> > > > > with all this emissions crap like the charcoal canister....or does
> it
> > > > > matter...I think there are a few hoses coming from the carb that
> have to
> > > do
> > > > > with emissions. Any write ups would be great.
> > > > > Allen

 

Okay Mike...just was out checking things out. There are no drops of fuel
spilling over from the two venturi nozzles. I messed around with the high
idle cam and curb idle screws (think that's the proper term for them) and
finally got it to sit off the high idle cam and rest on the curb idle
screw...set it correctly and everthing is great rpm wise. It still doesn't
idle completely smooth....but foam won't roll out of a tall neck that's for
sure!
I'll have to wait until it's cold to see what she does now. It used to never
want to jump off the cam to settle in the curb idle.
The other thing I'd like to do eventually is get the O2 back in the loop but
I have absolutely no idea where that thing hooks up to. There is a huge plug
connector right off the O2 sensor that still remains but I can't locate the
other wire that would have the other half of the connector on it. Any idea
where this wire/connector comes from? Pictures would be great,...my Chiltons
sucks @$$!
Thanks again!
Allen

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FEC9C76.203EFC7D@sympatico.ca...
>
>
> ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3FEC8E20.DB1D8ADC@sympatico.ca...
> > > ..... We put our beers on the air
> > > filter and it didn't shake or bubble them when turning 750 rpm....
> >
> > Excellent scientific test!!!
>
> Works every time!
>
> BUT! If I need to set it on for the emissions sniffer, I have to lean
> it enough that the beer will start growing bubbles on the side of the
> bottle for the sniffer to like it. The long 6 is supposed to be a bit
> of a 'thumper' engine. It needs bubbles in the beer to pass....
>
> If it just purrs at 750 rpm, it will be running a bit too rich for the
> sniffer.
>
> >
> > >
> > > Clean it and put a kit in with every major tune or every set of plugs,
> > > change the gas filter every year and make sure it is in right side up.
> > > It has to be level with the center outlet going to the carb and the
> > > return line hooked to the top outlet. The return line has to be on
top
> > > or gas will just syphon back to the tank making it not want to cold
> > > start.
> >
> > What kit are you referring to Mike? And is that something Autozone will
> > carry? I'm getting ready to do that procedure you refered to this
afternoon.
> > You don't have a schematic of the carb do you? I'm trying to picture
this
> > choke linkage and what side of the carb it's on. Says something about
> > drilling out a rivet...and without removing the carb I take it that it
is on
> > the driver's side.
> > Thanks again!
> > Allen
>
> Yes autozone should have the kits. Just a basic Carb Kit. They come
> with all the gaskets and a new float needle and seat and a new
> accelerator pump.
>
> The linkage that gets sticky is the plastic step thingie that the choke
> uses for the fast idle. It just plain gets dirty on the pivot point.
> WD40 is a good cleaner, but a carb cleaner spray is better, the real
> cleaner doesn't leave junk behind to attract more dirt.
>
> If you don't have to unscrew some of the parts to clean them when
> installing a kit, then DON'T!
>
> A lot of the adjustments given in the instructions for the kit are not
> needed. Most of the carb can come apart without unscrewing settings
> just to clean it.
>
> Some things you must unscrew like the idle Jets, but you just count the
> turns as you screw all of them in tight 'before' screwing them all the
> way out. That way when you put it back, you just screw it all the way
> tight again and back off the screws the same as they were.
>
> As you commented, it worked great a year ago, now it is time for a clean
> and it will work great at the same settings as last time it was cleaned.
>
> Trying to mess with settings to make up for dirt is a big pain in the
> butt, it will never stay stable and isn't the right way to do it except
> for a trail fix to keep you running.
>
> I wouldn't mind trying to help you put a kit in it via email. I do have
> some photos here showing the parts and what not to mess with or I can
> take a digital photo of some directions I have here to refer to.
>
> Mike
>
> >
> > >>
> > > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thanks Mike.
> > > > The funny thing is when I bought it in September...it idled
excellent. I
> > > > mean the thing ran great and I was so suprised because I've heard
horror
> > > > stories about the 258s. Now that the weather has gotten colder...the
> > idle on
> > > > this thing is crap...mostly runs WAY too high and on occasion will
click
> > > > down and run so low it'll stall. Even when it's completely warmed
> > up...does
> > > > the same thing. And doesn't the Weber replacement do away with the
02
> > sensor
> > > > and computer?? Not sure on that one. I'm looking for the most simple
> > swap
> > > > possible..the MC2100 looks a bit troublesome for a guy who knows
jack
> > about
> > > > carbs (ME!).
> > > > Allen
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FEC73FA.84973ACA@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > You have a butchered wiring and computer setup that is going to
run
> > like
> > > > > crap until you get it sorted out no matter what carb is on it.
> > > > >
> > > > > Stock the idle mix and half those vacuum lines and solenoids are
> > > > > computer controlled.
> > > > >
> > > > > With no O2 sensor, the computer is stuck in limp home mode which
> > clamps
> > > > > down on the mix and the timing advance.
> > > > >
> > > > > I would recommend you at least put the computer out of your misery
so
> > > > > you can start to make sense of the rest of the system.
> > > > >
> > > > > That Carter carb you have on there is a very nice carb when it is
> > tuned
> > > > > up and clean. Mine goes like a scalded cat with just an Accel
coil
> > and
> > > > > stock everything else. (no computer) I get a nice 19 US mpg and
she
> > > > > will easily bury the spedo in 4th.
> > > > >
> > > > > Carbs do take some tweaking to get them to run right. That goes
for
> > all
> > > > > carbs, so if you can't get the Carter running, not likely you will
> > have
> > > > > any luck with any other carb either.
> > > > >
> > > > > Carbs are also supposed to get a kit put in them every time you
change
> > > > > your spark plugs according to the CJ owners manual. Do you know
when
> > > > > the last kit went in yours or when the last plugs went in? Kits
are
> > > > > less than $20.00 and are easy to put in.
> > > > >
> > > > > Too bad you don't live close to me. I have helped 3 people put in
> > kits
> > > > > and kill the computers in the last couple months.
> > > > >
> > > > > Things like the charcoal canister, PCV, EGR and air filter flaps
are
> > all
> > > > > needed parts you cannot take off. The rest is mostly junk.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > My 83 CJ7 has given up the ghost on the carb. I'm pretty sure
it's a
> > > > > > carter....anyway to definitively tell? Anyway..it's a 258 stock
> > > > motor...the
> > > > > > only bad thing is the PO disconnected the 02 sensor during a YJ
tub
> > > > > > swap..there are a few things I can't find at the moment when it
> > comes to
> > > > > > wiring inside the engine bay. The motor runs great when tooling
down
> > the
> > > > > > road but I can't get it to idle right. The choke wants to either
> > idle
> > > > WAY
> > > > > > high...or so low it stalls.
> > > > > > Question is what carb would you recommend replacing it with and
what
> > do
> > > > I do
> > > > > > with all this emissions crap like the charcoal canister....or
does
> > it
> > > > > > matter...I think there are a few hoses coming from the carb that
> > have to
> > > > do
> > > > > > with emissions. Any write ups would be great.
> > > > > > Allen

 

Okay Mike...just was out checking things out. There are no drops of fuel
spilling over from the two venturi nozzles. I messed around with the high
idle cam and curb idle screws (think that's the proper term for them) and
finally got it to sit off the high idle cam and rest on the curb idle
screw...set it correctly and everthing is great rpm wise. It still doesn't
idle completely smooth....but foam won't roll out of a tall neck that's for
sure!
I'll have to wait until it's cold to see what she does now. It used to never
want to jump off the cam to settle in the curb idle.
The other thing I'd like to do eventually is get the O2 back in the loop but
I have absolutely no idea where that thing hooks up to. There is a huge plug
connector right off the O2 sensor that still remains but I can't locate the
other wire that would have the other half of the connector on it. Any idea
where this wire/connector comes from? Pictures would be great,...my Chiltons
sucks @$$!
Thanks again!
Allen

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FEC9C76.203EFC7D@sympatico.ca...
>
>
> ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3FEC8E20.DB1D8ADC@sympatico.ca...
> > > ..... We put our beers on the air
> > > filter and it didn't shake or bubble them when turning 750 rpm....
> >
> > Excellent scientific test!!!
>
> Works every time!
>
> BUT! If I need to set it on for the emissions sniffer, I have to lean
> it enough that the beer will start growing bubbles on the side of the
> bottle for the sniffer to like it. The long 6 is supposed to be a bit
> of a 'thumper' engine. It needs bubbles in the beer to pass....
>
> If it just purrs at 750 rpm, it will be running a bit too rich for the
> sniffer.
>
> >
> > >
> > > Clean it and put a kit in with every major tune or every set of plugs,
> > > change the gas filter every year and make sure it is in right side up.
> > > It has to be level with the center outlet going to the carb and the
> > > return line hooked to the top outlet. The return line has to be on
top
> > > or gas will just syphon back to the tank making it not want to cold
> > > start.
> >
> > What kit are you referring to Mike? And is that something Autozone will
> > carry? I'm getting ready to do that procedure you refered to this
afternoon.
> > You don't have a schematic of the carb do you? I'm trying to picture
this
> > choke linkage and what side of the carb it's on. Says something about
> > drilling out a rivet...and without removing the carb I take it that it
is on
> > the driver's side.
> > Thanks again!
> > Allen
>
> Yes autozone should have the kits. Just a basic Carb Kit. They come
> with all the gaskets and a new float needle and seat and a new
> accelerator pump.
>
> The linkage that gets sticky is the plastic step thingie that the choke
> uses for the fast idle. It just plain gets dirty on the pivot point.
> WD40 is a good cleaner, but a carb cleaner spray is better, the real
> cleaner doesn't leave junk behind to attract more dirt.
>
> If you don't have to unscrew some of the parts to clean them when
> installing a kit, then DON'T!
>
> A lot of the adjustments given in the instructions for the kit are not
> needed. Most of the carb can come apart without unscrewing settings
> just to clean it.
>
> Some things you must unscrew like the idle Jets, but you just count the
> turns as you screw all of them in tight 'before' screwing them all the
> way out. That way when you put it back, you just screw it all the way
> tight again and back off the screws the same as they were.
>
> As you commented, it worked great a year ago, now it is time for a clean
> and it will work great at the same settings as last time it was cleaned.
>
> Trying to mess with settings to make up for dirt is a big pain in the
> butt, it will never stay stable and isn't the right way to do it except
> for a trail fix to keep you running.
>
> I wouldn't mind trying to help you put a kit in it via email. I do have
> some photos here showing the parts and what not to mess with or I can
> take a digital photo of some directions I have here to refer to.
>
> Mike
>
> >
> > >>
> > > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thanks Mike.
> > > > The funny thing is when I bought it in September...it idled
excellent. I
> > > > mean the thing ran great and I was so suprised because I've heard
horror
> > > > stories about the 258s. Now that the weather has gotten colder...the
> > idle on
> > > > this thing is crap...mostly runs WAY too high and on occasion will
click
> > > > down and run so low it'll stall. Even when it's completely warmed
> > up...does
> > > > the same thing. And doesn't the Weber replacement do away with the
02
> > sensor
> > > > and computer?? Not sure on that one. I'm looking for the most simple
> > swap
> > > > possible..the MC2100 looks a bit troublesome for a guy who knows
jack
> > about
> > > > carbs (ME!).
> > > > Allen
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FEC73FA.84973ACA@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > You have a butchered wiring and computer setup that is going to
run
> > like
> > > > > crap until you get it sorted out no matter what carb is on it.
> > > > >
> > > > > Stock the idle mix and half those vacuum lines and solenoids are
> > > > > computer controlled.
> > > > >
> > > > > With no O2 sensor, the computer is stuck in limp home mode which
> > clamps
> > > > > down on the mix and the timing advance.
> > > > >
> > > > > I would recommend you at least put the computer out of your misery
so
> > > > > you can start to make sense of the rest of the system.
> > > > >
> > > > > That Carter carb you have on there is a very nice carb when it is
> > tuned
> > > > > up and clean. Mine goes like a scalded cat with just an Accel
coil
> > and
> > > > > stock everything else. (no computer) I get a nice 19 US mpg and
she
> > > > > will easily bury the spedo in 4th.
> > > > >
> > > > > Carbs do take some tweaking to get them to run right. That goes
for
> > all
> > > > > carbs, so if you can't get the Carter running, not likely you will
> > have
> > > > > any luck with any other carb either.
> > > > >
> > > > > Carbs are also supposed to get a kit put in them every time you
change
> > > > > your spark plugs according to the CJ owners manual. Do you know
when
> > > > > the last kit went in yours or when the last plugs went in? Kits
are
> > > > > less than $20.00 and are easy to put in.
> > > > >
> > > > > Too bad you don't live close to me. I have helped 3 people put in
> > kits
> > > > > and kill the computers in the last couple months.
> > > > >
> > > > > Things like the charcoal canister, PCV, EGR and air filter flaps
are
> > all
> > > > > needed parts you cannot take off. The rest is mostly junk.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > My 83 CJ7 has given up the ghost on the carb. I'm pretty sure
it's a
> > > > > > carter....anyway to definitively tell? Anyway..it's a 258 stock
> > > > motor...the
> > > > > > only bad thing is the PO disconnected the 02 sensor during a YJ
tub
> > > > > > swap..there are a few things I can't find at the moment when it
> > comes to
> > > > > > wiring inside the engine bay. The motor runs great when tooling
down
> > the
> > > > > > road but I can't get it to idle right. The choke wants to either
> > idle
> > > > WAY
> > > > > > high...or so low it stalls.
> > > > > > Question is what carb would you recommend replacing it with and
what
> > do
> > > > I do
> > > > > > with all this emissions crap like the charcoal canister....or
does
> > it
> > > > > > matter...I think there are a few hoses coming from the carb that
> > have to
> > > > do
> > > > > > with emissions. Any write ups would be great.
> > > > > > Allen

 

Okay Mike...just was out checking things out. There are no drops of fuel
spilling over from the two venturi nozzles. I messed around with the high
idle cam and curb idle screws (think that's the proper term for them) and
finally got it to sit off the high idle cam and rest on the curb idle
screw...set it correctly and everthing is great rpm wise. It still doesn't
idle completely smooth....but foam won't roll out of a tall neck that's for
sure!
I'll have to wait until it's cold to see what she does now. It used to never
want to jump off the cam to settle in the curb idle.
The other thing I'd like to do eventually is get the O2 back in the loop but
I have absolutely no idea where that thing hooks up to. There is a huge plug
connector right off the O2 sensor that still remains but I can't locate the
other wire that would have the other half of the connector on it. Any idea
where this wire/connector comes from? Pictures would be great,...my Chiltons
sucks @$$!
Thanks again!
Allen

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FEC9C76.203EFC7D@sympatico.ca...
>
>
> ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3FEC8E20.DB1D8ADC@sympatico.ca...
> > > ..... We put our beers on the air
> > > filter and it didn't shake or bubble them when turning 750 rpm....
> >
> > Excellent scientific test!!!
>
> Works every time!
>
> BUT! If I need to set it on for the emissions sniffer, I have to lean
> it enough that the beer will start growing bubbles on the side of the
> bottle for the sniffer to like it. The long 6 is supposed to be a bit
> of a 'thumper' engine. It needs bubbles in the beer to pass....
>
> If it just purrs at 750 rpm, it will be running a bit too rich for the
> sniffer.
>
> >
> > >
> > > Clean it and put a kit in with every major tune or every set of plugs,
> > > change the gas filter every year and make sure it is in right side up.
> > > It has to be level with the center outlet going to the carb and the
> > > return line hooked to the top outlet. The return line has to be on
top
> > > or gas will just syphon back to the tank making it not want to cold
> > > start.
> >
> > What kit are you referring to Mike? And is that something Autozone will
> > carry? I'm getting ready to do that procedure you refered to this
afternoon.
> > You don't have a schematic of the carb do you? I'm trying to picture
this
> > choke linkage and what side of the carb it's on. Says something about
> > drilling out a rivet...and without removing the carb I take it that it
is on
> > the driver's side.
> > Thanks again!
> > Allen
>
> Yes autozone should have the kits. Just a basic Carb Kit. They come
> with all the gaskets and a new float needle and seat and a new
> accelerator pump.
>
> The linkage that gets sticky is the plastic step thingie that the choke
> uses for the fast idle. It just plain gets dirty on the pivot point.
> WD40 is a good cleaner, but a carb cleaner spray is better, the real
> cleaner doesn't leave junk behind to attract more dirt.
>
> If you don't have to unscrew some of the parts to clean them when
> installing a kit, then DON'T!
>
> A lot of the adjustments given in the instructions for the kit are not
> needed. Most of the carb can come apart without unscrewing settings
> just to clean it.
>
> Some things you must unscrew like the idle Jets, but you just count the
> turns as you screw all of them in tight 'before' screwing them all the
> way out. That way when you put it back, you just screw it all the way
> tight again and back off the screws the same as they were.
>
> As you commented, it worked great a year ago, now it is time for a clean
> and it will work great at the same settings as last time it was cleaned.
>
> Trying to mess with settings to make up for dirt is a big pain in the
> butt, it will never stay stable and isn't the right way to do it except
> for a trail fix to keep you running.
>
> I wouldn't mind trying to help you put a kit in it via email. I do have
> some photos here showing the parts and what not to mess with or I can
> take a digital photo of some directions I have here to refer to.
>
> Mike
>
> >
> > >>
> > > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thanks Mike.
> > > > The funny thing is when I bought it in September...it idled
excellent. I
> > > > mean the thing ran great and I was so suprised because I've heard
horror
> > > > stories about the 258s. Now that the weather has gotten colder...the
> > idle on
> > > > this thing is crap...mostly runs WAY too high and on occasion will
click
> > > > down and run so low it'll stall. Even when it's completely warmed
> > up...does
> > > > the same thing. And doesn't the Weber replacement do away with the
02
> > sensor
> > > > and computer?? Not sure on that one. I'm looking for the most simple
> > swap
> > > > possible..the MC2100 looks a bit troublesome for a guy who knows
jack
> > about
> > > > carbs (ME!).
> > > > Allen
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FEC73FA.84973ACA@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > You have a butchered wiring and computer setup that is going to
run
> > like
> > > > > crap until you get it sorted out no matter what carb is on it.
> > > > >
> > > > > Stock the idle mix and half those vacuum lines and solenoids are
> > > > > computer controlled.
> > > > >
> > > > > With no O2 sensor, the computer is stuck in limp home mode which
> > clamps
> > > > > down on the mix and the timing advance.
> > > > >
> > > > > I would recommend you at least put the computer out of your misery
so
> > > > > you can start to make sense of the rest of the system.
> > > > >
> > > > > That Carter carb you have on there is a very nice carb when it is
> > tuned
> > > > > up and clean. Mine goes like a scalded cat with just an Accel
coil
> > and
> > > > > stock everything else. (no computer) I get a nice 19 US mpg and
she
> > > > > will easily bury the spedo in 4th.
> > > > >
> > > > > Carbs do take some tweaking to get them to run right. That goes
for
> > all
> > > > > carbs, so if you can't get the Carter running, not likely you will
> > have
> > > > > any luck with any other carb either.
> > > > >
> > > > > Carbs are also supposed to get a kit put in them every time you
change
> > > > > your spark plugs according to the CJ owners manual. Do you know
when
> > > > > the last kit went in yours or when the last plugs went in? Kits
are
> > > > > less than $20.00 and are easy to put in.
> > > > >
> > > > > Too bad you don't live close to me. I have helped 3 people put in
> > kits
> > > > > and kill the computers in the last couple months.
> > > > >
> > > > > Things like the charcoal canister, PCV, EGR and air filter flaps
are
> > all
> > > > > needed parts you cannot take off. The rest is mostly junk.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > My 83 CJ7 has given up the ghost on the carb. I'm pretty sure
it's a
> > > > > > carter....anyway to definitively tell? Anyway..it's a 258 stock
> > > > motor...the
> > > > > > only bad thing is the PO disconnected the 02 sensor during a YJ
tub
> > > > > > swap..there are a few things I can't find at the moment when it
> > comes to
> > > > > > wiring inside the engine bay. The motor runs great when tooling
down
> > the
> > > > > > road but I can't get it to idle right. The choke wants to either
> > idle
> > > > WAY
> > > > > > high...or so low it stalls.
> > > > > > Question is what carb would you recommend replacing it with and
what
> > do
> > > > I do
> > > > > > with all this emissions crap like the charcoal canister....or
does
> > it
> > > > > > matter...I think there are a few hoses coming from the carb that
> > have to
> > > > do
> > > > > > with emissions. Any write ups would be great.
> > > > > > Allen

 

I replaced the Carter carb. on my '90 YJ 258ci about five years ago....the
Weber carb. has run much better in my experiences. The vacuum lines that
are no longer used simply get plugged, but I think I only did that to only
one or two vacuum lines after my conversion.

In fact, it was this very group that I found a seller, who just purchased
the EFI kit, and let the barely used Weber go for almost 1/2 of retail cost.


<ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:BHZGb.34596$ms2.26308@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> My 83 CJ7 has given up the ghost on the carb. I'm pretty sure it's a
> carter....anyway to definitively tell? Anyway..it's a 258 stock
motor...the
> only bad thing is the PO disconnected the 02 sensor during a YJ tub
> swap..there are a few things I can't find at the moment when it comes to
> wiring inside the engine bay. The motor runs great when tooling down the
> road but I can't get it to idle right. The choke wants to either idle WAY
> high...or so low it stalls.
> Question is what carb would you recommend replacing it with and what do I
do
> with all this emissions crap like the charcoal canister....or does it
> matter...I think there are a few hoses coming from the carb that have to
do
> with emissions. Any write ups would be great.
> Allen
>
>
>

 

I replaced the Carter carb. on my '90 YJ 258ci about five years ago....the
Weber carb. has run much better in my experiences. The vacuum lines that
are no longer used simply get plugged, but I think I only did that to only
one or two vacuum lines after my conversion.

In fact, it was this very group that I found a seller, who just purchased
the EFI kit, and let the barely used Weber go for almost 1/2 of retail cost.


<ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:BHZGb.34596$ms2.26308@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> My 83 CJ7 has given up the ghost on the carb. I'm pretty sure it's a
> carter....anyway to definitively tell? Anyway..it's a 258 stock
motor...the
> only bad thing is the PO disconnected the 02 sensor during a YJ tub
> swap..there are a few things I can't find at the moment when it comes to
> wiring inside the engine bay. The motor runs great when tooling down the
> road but I can't get it to idle right. The choke wants to either idle WAY
> high...or so low it stalls.
> Question is what carb would you recommend replacing it with and what do I
do
> with all this emissions crap like the charcoal canister....or does it
> matter...I think there are a few hoses coming from the carb that have to
do
> with emissions. Any write ups would be great.
> Allen
>
>
>

 

I replaced the Carter carb. on my '90 YJ 258ci about five years ago....the
Weber carb. has run much better in my experiences. The vacuum lines that
are no longer used simply get plugged, but I think I only did that to only
one or two vacuum lines after my conversion.

In fact, it was this very group that I found a seller, who just purchased
the EFI kit, and let the barely used Weber go for almost 1/2 of retail cost.


<ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:BHZGb.34596$ms2.26308@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> My 83 CJ7 has given up the ghost on the carb. I'm pretty sure it's a
> carter....anyway to definitively tell? Anyway..it's a 258 stock
motor...the
> only bad thing is the PO disconnected the 02 sensor during a YJ tub
> swap..there are a few things I can't find at the moment when it comes to
> wiring inside the engine bay. The motor runs great when tooling down the
> road but I can't get it to idle right. The choke wants to either idle WAY
> high...or so low it stalls.
> Question is what carb would you recommend replacing it with and what do I
do
> with all this emissions crap like the charcoal canister....or does it
> matter...I think there are a few hoses coming from the carb that have to
do
> with emissions. Any write ups would be great.
> Allen
>
>
>