Hi all,

I've got an 84 Cherokee with a 3.4L V6 (replaced the 2.8L) and it's got carb
troubles. It stalls going left, runs too rich and appears to be leaking from
the passenger side of the carb.

It's a Rochester 2SE (not E2SE).

I'd just like it to run as efficiently as possible for daily driving.

I'm also not sure if the guys that replaced the 2.6L with this 3.4L took the
right steps to re-jet or otherwise account for the differences regarding
carburetion. The unit was working fine up until about 6 months ago. It always
stalled during left turns (above 20mph). But lately it's been running much too
rich (slight black smoke on acceleration), idling too high and leaking.

Do I rebuild it myself, send it out to be rebuilt or replace it? What are my
options/costs?

Thanks,
-Bill Kearney

 

Mid-eighties carburetors are the most mechanically complex devices yet
produced by the hand of man. That is why fuel injection was developed. Be
afraid.

Earle

"wkearney99" <wkearney99@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a7mcnfrFg9n0VoeiXTWJkA@speakeasy.net...
> Hi all,
>
> I've got an 84 Cherokee with a 3.4L V6 (replaced the 2.8L) and it's got
carb
> troubles. It stalls going left, runs too rich and appears to be leaking
from
> the passenger side of the carb.
>
> It's a Rochester 2SE (not E2SE).
>
> I'd just like it to run as efficiently as possible for daily driving.
>
> I'm also not sure if the guys that replaced the 2.6L with this 3.4L took
the
> right steps to re-jet or otherwise account for the differences regarding
> carburetion. The unit was working fine up until about 6 months ago. It
always
> stalled during left turns (above 20mph). But lately it's been running
much too
> rich (slight black smoke on acceleration), idling too high and leaking.
>
> Do I rebuild it myself, send it out to be rebuilt or replace it? What are
my
> options/costs?
>
> Thanks,
> -Bill Kearney
>

 

I have little choice against 'screwing with the carb' as it's leaking at this
point.

The stalling problem existed before the replacement of the 2.8L with this 3.4L.
I just got used to it.

Although, your comments about line corrosion are interesting. I'll take a stab
at checking these. I'll replace the vacuum hoses just on general principle.

How much hassle is involved with the "EGR orifice"?

-Bill Kearney

"RichH" <RhmpL33@NOSPAM.net> wrote in message
news:3F1B7368.1020109@NOSPAM.net...
> Before you screw around with an *extremely* difficult to adjust
> carburator, FIRST validate each and every damn part of the emission
> contols vacuum circuitry - CTO, non-Linear proportining valve, etc. Look
> especially at the placard on the firewall and verify that everything is
> working PERFECTLY before moving on the carb. That you are running rich
> AND are stalling when turning left is typically a problem in the control
> circuit that includes the CTO, distributor vacuum advance and the EGR
> (betch the farm that you're also not getting sufficient vacuum to the
> distributor!!!!. Also look at the circuitry that contols the dampers in
> the air cleaner housing - if this circuit is malfunctioning the damper
> doors wont work well ..... and will radically change the fuel/air
> mixture!!!!! There should be an idle 'kicker' that isnt getting
> actuated. Look for pin holes in the rubber tubing AND corroded steel
> tubing that runs along the left valve cover - there is a "y" junction on
> the steel tube manifolding (runs to the accumulator/charcoal bottle
> mounted to the left of radiator) on the front of the left valve cover
> that is notorius for developing leaks, pin holes, etc.
> The 3.4 does not require rejetting of the carb, the 2SE should be fine
> without any adjustment. Once you find the emission controls problem,
> (again before you screw with the carb) get a set of orfices for the EGR
> and keep changing with larger and larger orfices until the engine
> 'stumbles' when crusing at 3500 rpm, then change back to the next
> smaller EGR orfice .... you should then be getting about 20-23 mpg, AND
> will have maxed the power, etc. ....then find someone who can perform a
> curbside idle/mixture adjust with a 'propane injection' system, etc.
> Youll need to find a carburator 'fanatic' to do this for you. FIX the
> emissions control problem FIRST. Stealerships have NO idea how to set up
> this carb.
> eMail me direct when you find out what is in error - I'm archiving all
> this emission failure stuff for future reference. Its a bitch to trace
> and verify all this complex emissions controls on the 2.8/3.4. Just be
> patient, youll find it.

 

"Earle Horton" <enfermero_diabolico@registerednurses.com> wrote in message
news:bfel92$e0u66$1@ID-147790.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Mid-eighties carburetors are the most mechanically complex devices yet
> produced by the hand of man. That is why fuel injection was developed. Be
> afraid.

And that helps me how?

The 2SE is a lot "less worse" than the E2SE.

Putting an FI system on this would be a waste of time and money. Unless, of
course, there's a complete FI system available for less than the cost of a
replacement 2SE carburetor.

-Bill Kearney

 

Hmmm, how about it draining gasoline once the engine is shut off? I haven't yet
tracked down where but it's guaranteed to drip out about a bowl's worth of gas
once the engine is turned off. It does usually take at least 10 minutes for it
to start showing a drip underneath.

I will take a serious look at the emission systems.

Does anyone know of a 'carb expert' in the DC/Baltimore area? I'd be willing to
pay someone. Provided someone else recommends them and because they /know/ they
can fix this sort of thing.

-Bill Kearney

----- Original Message -----
From: "RichH" <RhmpL33@NOSPAM.net>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.jeep+******
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 10:27 PM
Subject: Re: carb rebuild xj 2.8L?

> Its leaking because there is not enough residual vacuum in the carbon
> filled canister system with the result that the bowl fills retrograde
> and floods the carb. Its NOT the carb float height as you dont stall
> going to the right. Please reread my previous post and thoroughly check
> the emissions control vacuum circuit.
> If you dont believe me, get a 'loaner' carb that is known to be working
> and swap it out - you'll find NO difference vs. stalling while making an
> idle speed left turn, leaking/flooding after shutdown, etc. ... until
> you fix the emissions controls.

 

Does a carb rebuild kit include this? Or is it a different, additional kit? Is
the factory kit well documented? Or is there a 3rd party kit that's better?

I'm not unwilling to take stab at rebuilding this beast (I've done quadrajets
before). But I'm concerned the current carb is sufficiently out of whack as to
have something wrong with it that a rebuild kit isn't going to address. Like
some molded part of the housing being out of whack or something.

Thanks,
-Bill Kearney


"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3F1DAC88.FC9C2714@***.net...
> Hi Bill,
> Bad needle valve, put a twenty dollar kit in it. Just take it slow,
> work in a well ventilated, lit area, on a table and an old towel so the
> small parts don't roll away. Follow the directions.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> wkearney99 wrote:
> >
> > Hmmm, how about it draining gasoline once the engine is shut off? I haven't
yet
> > tracked down where but it's guaranteed to drip out about a bowl's worth of
gas
> > once the engine is turned off. It does usually take at least 10 minutes for
it
> > to start showing a drip underneath.
> >
> > I will take a serious look at the emission systems.
> >
> > Does anyone know of a 'carb expert' in the DC/Baltimore area? I'd be
willing to
> > pay someone. Provided someone else recommends them and because they /know/
they
> > can fix this sort of thing.
> >
> > -Bill Kearney

 

Well....

I have read the thread.

A carb kit is really easy to put in and is really cheap.

It 'used' to work fine right?

Therefore all the settings were correct, so you take a pencil and paper
and screw in all the adjustments that 'need' to be moved to clean them
and count the turns. Write them down.

Anything that the kit says 'can' be adjusted, but doesn't need to move
to clean, you leave alone.

If you are careful and lay all the parts out on a newspaper in order of
taking them off, putting in a carb kit isn't hard.

If it turns out hard to set the mix up, take it in to a carb mechanic
for the final tweak.

To check your emissions, trace the PCV line to the intake and there or
on the PCV valve itself you will find another hose 'T' ed into it.

Follow this hose and it will go to the charcoal canister or gas tank and
carb float bowl vent.

At idle, pinch this PVC line to the canister closed. If the idle
changes, the canister is shot and the carb will not work right.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

wkearney99 wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I've got an 84 Cherokee with a 3.4L V6 (replaced the 2.8L) and it's got carb
> troubles. It stalls going left, runs too rich and appears to be leaking from
> the passenger side of the carb.
>
> It's a Rochester 2SE (not E2SE).
>
> I'd just like it to run as efficiently as possible for daily driving.
>
> I'm also not sure if the guys that replaced the 2.6L with this 3.4L took the
> right steps to re-jet or otherwise account for the differences regarding
> carburetion. The unit was working fine up until about 6 months ago. It always
> stalled during left turns (above 20mph). But lately it's been running much too
> rich (slight black smoke on acceleration), idling too high and leaking.
>
> Do I rebuild it myself, send it out to be rebuilt or replace it? What are my
> options/costs?
>
> Thanks,
> -Bill Kearney

 

LOL!

You can handle a quadrajet, that little thing will be a breeze.

And yes any kit comes with a needle and seat and an accelerator pump.

The aftermarket kits seem quite fine.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

wkearney99 wrote:
>
> Does a carb rebuild kit include this? Or is it a different, additional kit? Is
> the factory kit well documented? Or is there a 3rd party kit that's better?
>
> I'm not unwilling to take stab at rebuilding this beast (I've done quadrajets
> before). But I'm concerned the current carb is sufficiently out of whack as to
> have something wrong with it that a rebuild kit isn't going to address. Like
> some molded part of the housing being out of whack or something.
>
> Thanks,
> -Bill Kearney
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3F1DAC88.FC9C2714@***.net...
> > Hi Bill,
> > Bad needle valve, put a twenty dollar kit in it. Just take it slow,
> > work in a well ventilated, lit area, on a table and an old towel so the
> > small parts don't roll away. Follow the directions.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > wkearney99 wrote:
> > >
> > > Hmmm, how about it draining gasoline once the engine is shut off? I haven't
> yet
> > > tracked down where but it's guaranteed to drip out about a bowl's worth of
> gas
> > > once the engine is turned off. It does usually take at least 10 minutes for
> it
> > > to start showing a drip underneath.
> > >
> > > I will take a serious look at the emission systems.
> > >
> > > Does anyone know of a 'carb expert' in the DC/Baltimore area? I'd be
> willing to
> > > pay someone. Provided someone else recommends them and because they /know/
> they
> > > can fix this sort of thing.
> > >
> > > -Bill Kearney

 

Hi Bill,
A kit includes most of the small parts seen at:
http://www.carburetorfactory.com/expvw24.html Number 26 is responsible
for you flooding problem. Usually the choke pull-off needs to be
replaced too, that is not part of the kit, number 4.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

wkearney99 wrote:
>
> Does a carb rebuild kit include this? Or is it a different, additional kit? Is
> the factory kit well documented? Or is there a 3rd party kit that's better?
>
> I'm not unwilling to take stab at rebuilding this beast (I've done quadrajets
> before). But I'm concerned the current carb is sufficiently out of whack as to
> have something wrong with it that a rebuild kit isn't going to address. Like
> some molded part of the housing being out of whack or something.
>
> Thanks,
> -Bill Kearney

 

You know Bill, I have only once since the late 60's ever seen a dead
choke pull off...

Maybe my clients or friend have been lucky, but to me that is an unusual
part to go bad.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Hi Bill,
> A kit includes most of the small parts seen at:
> http://www.carburetorfactory.com/expvw24.html Number 26 is responsible
> for you flooding problem. Usually the choke pull-off needs to be
> replaced too, that is not part of the kit, number 4.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> wkearney99 wrote:
> >
> > Does a carb rebuild kit include this? Or is it a different, additional kit? Is
> > the factory kit well documented? Or is there a 3rd party kit that's better?
> >
> > I'm not unwilling to take stab at rebuilding this beast (I've done quadrajets
> > before). But I'm concerned the current carb is sufficiently out of whack as to
> > have something wrong with it that a rebuild kit isn't going to address. Like
> > some molded part of the housing being out of whack or something.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > -Bill Kearney