Calling on CJ experts
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Calling on CJ experts
The front skid plate also holds the transmission in place. Remove those
bolts and you will also drop the transmission.
"Rod's news" <rod.gram@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UsROe.6467$Hk.5613@pd7tw1no...
> tks michael ....... I shall dig out a jack, some plywood, ..... make a
> phone call to solicit help, ... and proceed.
>
> The front (skid plate) bolts look easy, but the rear ones look damned near
> impossible to get a wrench on the top side. Any suggestions if these
> things have to be held on top while undoing the nuts on the bottom ?????
>
>
> "Michael White" <michael12@mindspring.com> wrote in message
> news:qpPOe.1054$z2.10@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
>> Mike Romain (romainm@sympatico.ca) wrote on Tuesday 23 August 2005 12:28
>> pm:
>>
>>> The tank comes down with the skid plate and is a real bear of a job for
>>> one person to do.
>>>
>>> The bracket goes over the top of the tank and holds it down into the
>>> plate.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> It's actually pretty easy if you put a jack with a board on it underneath
>> the skid plate and the tank is mostly empty:
>>
>> - Put the jack under the tank and support it slightly
>> - Remove the hoses you can reach
>> - Remove the bolts
>> - Drop the tank most of the way
>> - Remove the remaining hose
>> - Remove the sending unit wire.
>>
>> I've taken mine off and on several times by myself. The biggest bear,
>> though, is putting the fill hoses back on mine (not stock hoses, and a
>> very
>> tight fit).
>> --
>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
>
bolts and you will also drop the transmission.
"Rod's news" <rod.gram@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UsROe.6467$Hk.5613@pd7tw1no...
> tks michael ....... I shall dig out a jack, some plywood, ..... make a
> phone call to solicit help, ... and proceed.
>
> The front (skid plate) bolts look easy, but the rear ones look damned near
> impossible to get a wrench on the top side. Any suggestions if these
> things have to be held on top while undoing the nuts on the bottom ?????
>
>
> "Michael White" <michael12@mindspring.com> wrote in message
> news:qpPOe.1054$z2.10@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
>> Mike Romain (romainm@sympatico.ca) wrote on Tuesday 23 August 2005 12:28
>> pm:
>>
>>> The tank comes down with the skid plate and is a real bear of a job for
>>> one person to do.
>>>
>>> The bracket goes over the top of the tank and holds it down into the
>>> plate.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> It's actually pretty easy if you put a jack with a board on it underneath
>> the skid plate and the tank is mostly empty:
>>
>> - Put the jack under the tank and support it slightly
>> - Remove the hoses you can reach
>> - Remove the bolts
>> - Drop the tank most of the way
>> - Remove the remaining hose
>> - Remove the sending unit wire.
>>
>> I've taken mine off and on several times by myself. The biggest bear,
>> though, is putting the fill hoses back on mine (not stock hoses, and a
>> very
>> tight fit).
>> --
>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
>
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Calling on CJ experts
The front skid plate also holds the transmission in place. Remove those
bolts and you will also drop the transmission.
"Rod's news" <rod.gram@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UsROe.6467$Hk.5613@pd7tw1no...
> tks michael ....... I shall dig out a jack, some plywood, ..... make a
> phone call to solicit help, ... and proceed.
>
> The front (skid plate) bolts look easy, but the rear ones look damned near
> impossible to get a wrench on the top side. Any suggestions if these
> things have to be held on top while undoing the nuts on the bottom ?????
>
>
> "Michael White" <michael12@mindspring.com> wrote in message
> news:qpPOe.1054$z2.10@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
>> Mike Romain (romainm@sympatico.ca) wrote on Tuesday 23 August 2005 12:28
>> pm:
>>
>>> The tank comes down with the skid plate and is a real bear of a job for
>>> one person to do.
>>>
>>> The bracket goes over the top of the tank and holds it down into the
>>> plate.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> It's actually pretty easy if you put a jack with a board on it underneath
>> the skid plate and the tank is mostly empty:
>>
>> - Put the jack under the tank and support it slightly
>> - Remove the hoses you can reach
>> - Remove the bolts
>> - Drop the tank most of the way
>> - Remove the remaining hose
>> - Remove the sending unit wire.
>>
>> I've taken mine off and on several times by myself. The biggest bear,
>> though, is putting the fill hoses back on mine (not stock hoses, and a
>> very
>> tight fit).
>> --
>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
>
bolts and you will also drop the transmission.
"Rod's news" <rod.gram@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UsROe.6467$Hk.5613@pd7tw1no...
> tks michael ....... I shall dig out a jack, some plywood, ..... make a
> phone call to solicit help, ... and proceed.
>
> The front (skid plate) bolts look easy, but the rear ones look damned near
> impossible to get a wrench on the top side. Any suggestions if these
> things have to be held on top while undoing the nuts on the bottom ?????
>
>
> "Michael White" <michael12@mindspring.com> wrote in message
> news:qpPOe.1054$z2.10@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
>> Mike Romain (romainm@sympatico.ca) wrote on Tuesday 23 August 2005 12:28
>> pm:
>>
>>> The tank comes down with the skid plate and is a real bear of a job for
>>> one person to do.
>>>
>>> The bracket goes over the top of the tank and holds it down into the
>>> plate.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> It's actually pretty easy if you put a jack with a board on it underneath
>> the skid plate and the tank is mostly empty:
>>
>> - Put the jack under the tank and support it slightly
>> - Remove the hoses you can reach
>> - Remove the bolts
>> - Drop the tank most of the way
>> - Remove the remaining hose
>> - Remove the sending unit wire.
>>
>> I've taken mine off and on several times by myself. The biggest bear,
>> though, is putting the fill hoses back on mine (not stock hoses, and a
>> very
>> tight fit).
>> --
>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
>
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Calling on CJ experts
The front skid plate also holds the transmission in place. Remove those
bolts and you will also drop the transmission.
"Rod's news" <rod.gram@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UsROe.6467$Hk.5613@pd7tw1no...
> tks michael ....... I shall dig out a jack, some plywood, ..... make a
> phone call to solicit help, ... and proceed.
>
> The front (skid plate) bolts look easy, but the rear ones look damned near
> impossible to get a wrench on the top side. Any suggestions if these
> things have to be held on top while undoing the nuts on the bottom ?????
>
>
> "Michael White" <michael12@mindspring.com> wrote in message
> news:qpPOe.1054$z2.10@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
>> Mike Romain (romainm@sympatico.ca) wrote on Tuesday 23 August 2005 12:28
>> pm:
>>
>>> The tank comes down with the skid plate and is a real bear of a job for
>>> one person to do.
>>>
>>> The bracket goes over the top of the tank and holds it down into the
>>> plate.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> It's actually pretty easy if you put a jack with a board on it underneath
>> the skid plate and the tank is mostly empty:
>>
>> - Put the jack under the tank and support it slightly
>> - Remove the hoses you can reach
>> - Remove the bolts
>> - Drop the tank most of the way
>> - Remove the remaining hose
>> - Remove the sending unit wire.
>>
>> I've taken mine off and on several times by myself. The biggest bear,
>> though, is putting the fill hoses back on mine (not stock hoses, and a
>> very
>> tight fit).
>> --
>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
>
bolts and you will also drop the transmission.
"Rod's news" <rod.gram@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UsROe.6467$Hk.5613@pd7tw1no...
> tks michael ....... I shall dig out a jack, some plywood, ..... make a
> phone call to solicit help, ... and proceed.
>
> The front (skid plate) bolts look easy, but the rear ones look damned near
> impossible to get a wrench on the top side. Any suggestions if these
> things have to be held on top while undoing the nuts on the bottom ?????
>
>
> "Michael White" <michael12@mindspring.com> wrote in message
> news:qpPOe.1054$z2.10@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
>> Mike Romain (romainm@sympatico.ca) wrote on Tuesday 23 August 2005 12:28
>> pm:
>>
>>> The tank comes down with the skid plate and is a real bear of a job for
>>> one person to do.
>>>
>>> The bracket goes over the top of the tank and holds it down into the
>>> plate.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> It's actually pretty easy if you put a jack with a board on it underneath
>> the skid plate and the tank is mostly empty:
>>
>> - Put the jack under the tank and support it slightly
>> - Remove the hoses you can reach
>> - Remove the bolts
>> - Drop the tank most of the way
>> - Remove the remaining hose
>> - Remove the sending unit wire.
>>
>> I've taken mine off and on several times by myself. The biggest bear,
>> though, is putting the fill hoses back on mine (not stock hoses, and a
>> very
>> tight fit).
>> --
>> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
>
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Calling on CJ experts
"Rusted" <no@email.com> wrote in message
news:b0SOe.18821$_L3.779@fe05.usenetserver.com...
> The front skid plate also holds the transmission in place. Remove those
> bolts and you will also drop the transmission.
yuh ....... and the hip bone holds the pelvis in place. Remove it and you
drop a nut.
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Calling on CJ experts
"Rusted" <no@email.com> wrote in message
news:b0SOe.18821$_L3.779@fe05.usenetserver.com...
> The front skid plate also holds the transmission in place. Remove those
> bolts and you will also drop the transmission.
yuh ....... and the hip bone holds the pelvis in place. Remove it and you
drop a nut.
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Calling on CJ experts
"Rusted" <no@email.com> wrote in message
news:b0SOe.18821$_L3.779@fe05.usenetserver.com...
> The front skid plate also holds the transmission in place. Remove those
> bolts and you will also drop the transmission.
yuh ....... and the hip bone holds the pelvis in place. Remove it and you
drop a nut.
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Calling on CJ experts
"Rusted" <no@email.com> wrote in message
news:b0SOe.18821$_L3.779@fe05.usenetserver.com...
> The front skid plate also holds the transmission in place. Remove those
> bolts and you will also drop the transmission.
yuh ....... and the hip bone holds the pelvis in place. Remove it and you
drop a nut.
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Calling on CJ experts
If you are in the rust belt, well..... you are not going to be
happy.....
The crossmember has square holes in it and uses carrage bolts. I
recommend using a grinder or 'dremil' tool with a fiberglass cut off
wheel and just chopping them off then replacing them.
If you are really lucky and soak them for a few days with a good
penetrating oil, they 'might' unbolt but my experience is the 'square'
holes don't stay square with the torque of the wrench on the rusted
threads. If I can get the nuts loose, then I try to get a thin
screwdriver under it to hold pressure on it to try and keep the bolt
head in the hole.
Or maybe you could just do what I did to remove the tank. ;-)
Mine seemed to come off quite easily when I was doing a 'baja' run
across an old abandoned airfield 20 miles from the nearest house way
out in the bush. Ended up with the torn tank (after I dragged it by
the lines for a while) on it's side in the back seat with the front
diff vent line used as a gas line extension to get us home.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
happy.....
The crossmember has square holes in it and uses carrage bolts. I
recommend using a grinder or 'dremil' tool with a fiberglass cut off
wheel and just chopping them off then replacing them.
If you are really lucky and soak them for a few days with a good
penetrating oil, they 'might' unbolt but my experience is the 'square'
holes don't stay square with the torque of the wrench on the rusted
threads. If I can get the nuts loose, then I try to get a thin
screwdriver under it to hold pressure on it to try and keep the bolt
head in the hole.
Or maybe you could just do what I did to remove the tank. ;-)
Mine seemed to come off quite easily when I was doing a 'baja' run
across an old abandoned airfield 20 miles from the nearest house way
out in the bush. Ended up with the torn tank (after I dragged it by
the lines for a while) on it's side in the back seat with the front
diff vent line used as a gas line extension to get us home.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Calling on CJ experts
If you are in the rust belt, well..... you are not going to be
happy.....
The crossmember has square holes in it and uses carrage bolts. I
recommend using a grinder or 'dremil' tool with a fiberglass cut off
wheel and just chopping them off then replacing them.
If you are really lucky and soak them for a few days with a good
penetrating oil, they 'might' unbolt but my experience is the 'square'
holes don't stay square with the torque of the wrench on the rusted
threads. If I can get the nuts loose, then I try to get a thin
screwdriver under it to hold pressure on it to try and keep the bolt
head in the hole.
Or maybe you could just do what I did to remove the tank. ;-)
Mine seemed to come off quite easily when I was doing a 'baja' run
across an old abandoned airfield 20 miles from the nearest house way
out in the bush. Ended up with the torn tank (after I dragged it by
the lines for a while) on it's side in the back seat with the front
diff vent line used as a gas line extension to get us home.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
happy.....
The crossmember has square holes in it and uses carrage bolts. I
recommend using a grinder or 'dremil' tool with a fiberglass cut off
wheel and just chopping them off then replacing them.
If you are really lucky and soak them for a few days with a good
penetrating oil, they 'might' unbolt but my experience is the 'square'
holes don't stay square with the torque of the wrench on the rusted
threads. If I can get the nuts loose, then I try to get a thin
screwdriver under it to hold pressure on it to try and keep the bolt
head in the hole.
Or maybe you could just do what I did to remove the tank. ;-)
Mine seemed to come off quite easily when I was doing a 'baja' run
across an old abandoned airfield 20 miles from the nearest house way
out in the bush. Ended up with the torn tank (after I dragged it by
the lines for a while) on it's side in the back seat with the front
diff vent line used as a gas line extension to get us home.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Calling on CJ experts
If you are in the rust belt, well..... you are not going to be
happy.....
The crossmember has square holes in it and uses carrage bolts. I
recommend using a grinder or 'dremil' tool with a fiberglass cut off
wheel and just chopping them off then replacing them.
If you are really lucky and soak them for a few days with a good
penetrating oil, they 'might' unbolt but my experience is the 'square'
holes don't stay square with the torque of the wrench on the rusted
threads. If I can get the nuts loose, then I try to get a thin
screwdriver under it to hold pressure on it to try and keep the bolt
head in the hole.
Or maybe you could just do what I did to remove the tank. ;-)
Mine seemed to come off quite easily when I was doing a 'baja' run
across an old abandoned airfield 20 miles from the nearest house way
out in the bush. Ended up with the torn tank (after I dragged it by
the lines for a while) on it's side in the back seat with the front
diff vent line used as a gas line extension to get us home.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
happy.....
The crossmember has square holes in it and uses carrage bolts. I
recommend using a grinder or 'dremil' tool with a fiberglass cut off
wheel and just chopping them off then replacing them.
If you are really lucky and soak them for a few days with a good
penetrating oil, they 'might' unbolt but my experience is the 'square'
holes don't stay square with the torque of the wrench on the rusted
threads. If I can get the nuts loose, then I try to get a thin
screwdriver under it to hold pressure on it to try and keep the bolt
head in the hole.
Or maybe you could just do what I did to remove the tank. ;-)
Mine seemed to come off quite easily when I was doing a 'baja' run
across an old abandoned airfield 20 miles from the nearest house way
out in the bush. Ended up with the torn tank (after I dragged it by
the lines for a while) on it's side in the back seat with the front
diff vent line used as a gas line extension to get us home.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's