A/C not cold
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A/C not cold
Eric did pass the time by typing:
> So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
> know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
> parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
> old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
You can do some basic checking.
Does the compressor run with the AC on.
Does it cycle or run all the time.
If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
side.
If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
you talk about good AC at idle.
--
DougW
> So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
> know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
> parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
> old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
You can do some basic checking.
Does the compressor run with the AC on.
Does it cycle or run all the time.
If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
side.
If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
you talk about good AC at idle.
--
DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A/C not cold
What doors are you talking about? By the way, this is in a 99 TJ (and the
system uses R134, I'm sure). I'll do as much of that checking as I can.
As usual, thanks again Doug!!
Eric
99 TJ
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:kUCPc.9845$Oz2.2080@okepread06...
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
> > So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out.
Didn't
> > know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
> > parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
> > old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
>
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
system uses R134, I'm sure). I'll do as much of that checking as I can.
As usual, thanks again Doug!!
Eric
99 TJ
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:kUCPc.9845$Oz2.2080@okepread06...
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
> > So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out.
Didn't
> > know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
> > parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
> > old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
>
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A/C not cold
What doors are you talking about? By the way, this is in a 99 TJ (and the
system uses R134, I'm sure). I'll do as much of that checking as I can.
As usual, thanks again Doug!!
Eric
99 TJ
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:kUCPc.9845$Oz2.2080@okepread06...
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
> > So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out.
Didn't
> > know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
> > parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
> > old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
>
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
system uses R134, I'm sure). I'll do as much of that checking as I can.
As usual, thanks again Doug!!
Eric
99 TJ
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:kUCPc.9845$Oz2.2080@okepread06...
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
> > So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out.
Didn't
> > know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
> > parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
> > old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
>
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A/C not cold
What doors are you talking about? By the way, this is in a 99 TJ (and the
system uses R134, I'm sure). I'll do as much of that checking as I can.
As usual, thanks again Doug!!
Eric
99 TJ
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:kUCPc.9845$Oz2.2080@okepread06...
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
> > So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out.
Didn't
> > know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
> > parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
> > old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
>
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
system uses R134, I'm sure). I'll do as much of that checking as I can.
As usual, thanks again Doug!!
Eric
99 TJ
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:kUCPc.9845$Oz2.2080@okepread06...
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
> > So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out.
Didn't
> > know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
> > parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
> > old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
>
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A/C not cold
What doors are you talking about? By the way, this is in a 99 TJ (and the
system uses R134, I'm sure). I'll do as much of that checking as I can.
As usual, thanks again Doug!!
Eric
99 TJ
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:kUCPc.9845$Oz2.2080@okepread06...
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
> > So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out.
Didn't
> > know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
> > parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
> > old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
>
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
system uses R134, I'm sure). I'll do as much of that checking as I can.
As usual, thanks again Doug!!
Eric
99 TJ
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:kUCPc.9845$Oz2.2080@okepread06...
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
> > So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out.
Didn't
> > know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
> > parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
> > old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
>
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A/C not cold
DougW did pass the time by typing:
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
>> So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
>> know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
>> parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
>> old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
Erm.. I blame the Scotch for that..
Should have said Evaporator... the condenser is in front
of your radiator. :)
Oh well, at least it's good Scotch.
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
>> So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
>> know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
>> parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
>> old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
Erm.. I blame the Scotch for that..
Should have said Evaporator... the condenser is in front
of your radiator. :)
Oh well, at least it's good Scotch.
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A/C not cold
DougW did pass the time by typing:
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
>> So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
>> know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
>> parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
>> old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
Erm.. I blame the Scotch for that..
Should have said Evaporator... the condenser is in front
of your radiator. :)
Oh well, at least it's good Scotch.
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
>> So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
>> know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
>> parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
>> old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
Erm.. I blame the Scotch for that..
Should have said Evaporator... the condenser is in front
of your radiator. :)
Oh well, at least it's good Scotch.
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A/C not cold
DougW did pass the time by typing:
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
>> So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
>> know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
>> parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
>> old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
Erm.. I blame the Scotch for that..
Should have said Evaporator... the condenser is in front
of your radiator. :)
Oh well, at least it's good Scotch.
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
>> So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
>> know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
>> parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
>> old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
Erm.. I blame the Scotch for that..
Should have said Evaporator... the condenser is in front
of your radiator. :)
Oh well, at least it's good Scotch.
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A/C not cold
DougW did pass the time by typing:
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
>> So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
>> know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
>> parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
>> old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
Erm.. I blame the Scotch for that..
Should have said Evaporator... the condenser is in front
of your radiator. :)
Oh well, at least it's good Scotch.
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
> Eric did pass the time by typing:
>> So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
>> know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
>> parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
>> old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.
>
> You can do some basic checking.
>
> Does the compressor run with the AC on.
> Does it cycle or run all the time.
>
> If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
> the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
> to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)
Erm.. I blame the Scotch for that..
Should have said Evaporator... the condenser is in front
of your radiator. :)
Oh well, at least it's good Scotch.
> If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
> could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
> side.
>
> If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
> Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
> of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.
>
> If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
> is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
> enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
> you talk about good AC at idle.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A/C not cold
Eric did pass the time by typing:
> What doors are you talking about? By the way, this is in a 99 TJ (and the
> system uses R134, I'm sure). I'll do as much of that checking as I can.
There are doors (valves) in the AC system that change how much air goes
past the coil and how much goes past the heater core (called a blend door) as
well as a set of doors that determine what goes where (floor, bi, vent, defrost, etc)
These mostly run on vacuum (or mechanical linkages in older models).
If there isn't enough vac (leak in the system somewhere or disconnected line)
they tend to stay shut. It's hard to say for sure without the service book
or knowing what you have in there.
If it is a leak it can be anywhere. Check to see if it cycles properly first
then press with looking for leaks. A big vac leak will also cause a rough idle
condition.
--
DougW
> What doors are you talking about? By the way, this is in a 99 TJ (and the
> system uses R134, I'm sure). I'll do as much of that checking as I can.
There are doors (valves) in the AC system that change how much air goes
past the coil and how much goes past the heater core (called a blend door) as
well as a set of doors that determine what goes where (floor, bi, vent, defrost, etc)
These mostly run on vacuum (or mechanical linkages in older models).
If there isn't enough vac (leak in the system somewhere or disconnected line)
they tend to stay shut. It's hard to say for sure without the service book
or knowing what you have in there.
If it is a leak it can be anywhere. Check to see if it cycles properly first
then press with looking for leaks. A big vac leak will also cause a rough idle
condition.
--
DougW
