Peter D. did pass the time by typing:

> Another btw: These days modern cars do not use any gas or liquid in the
> A/C - they use what's known as Peltiers' modules which is pure electronics
> to cool down the air (no leaks to worry about). I know Caddy's have had it
> for at least 8 years in their vehicles. But there are some car makers (and
> they are in the majority) who still don't use it.

Actually the majority of new cars use R134a. Peltier junctions although
neet to play with are also power hungry little monsters with limited heat
sinking capacity. The upper limit is set by BTUs required to cool the vehicle.

Cadillac and Lexus use a peltier style seat-cooling/heating concept which
I find quite interesting but I've never seen an automobile with pure electric
cooling.

At any rate, here is some interesting reading
http://www.energy.ca.gov/development..._amerigon.html

http://www.dansdata.com/pelt.htm

--
DougW

 

Peter D. did pass the time by typing:

> Another btw: These days modern cars do not use any gas or liquid in the
> A/C - they use what's known as Peltiers' modules which is pure electronics
> to cool down the air (no leaks to worry about). I know Caddy's have had it
> for at least 8 years in their vehicles. But there are some car makers (and
> they are in the majority) who still don't use it.

Actually the majority of new cars use R134a. Peltier junctions although
neet to play with are also power hungry little monsters with limited heat
sinking capacity. The upper limit is set by BTUs required to cool the vehicle.

Cadillac and Lexus use a peltier style seat-cooling/heating concept which
I find quite interesting but I've never seen an automobile with pure electric
cooling.

At any rate, here is some interesting reading
http://www.energy.ca.gov/development..._amerigon.html

http://www.dansdata.com/pelt.htm

--
DougW

 

Peter D. did pass the time by typing:

> Another btw: These days modern cars do not use any gas or liquid in the
> A/C - they use what's known as Peltiers' modules which is pure electronics
> to cool down the air (no leaks to worry about). I know Caddy's have had it
> for at least 8 years in their vehicles. But there are some car makers (and
> they are in the majority) who still don't use it.

Actually the majority of new cars use R134a. Peltier junctions although
neet to play with are also power hungry little monsters with limited heat
sinking capacity. The upper limit is set by BTUs required to cool the vehicle.

Cadillac and Lexus use a peltier style seat-cooling/heating concept which
I find quite interesting but I've never seen an automobile with pure electric
cooling.

At any rate, here is some interesting reading
http://www.energy.ca.gov/development..._amerigon.html

http://www.dansdata.com/pelt.htm

--
DougW

 

So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.

Eric
"Peter D." <piotrekd@opt[removethispart]online.net> wrote in message
news:9PBPc.2693$vu2.1015861@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.ne t...
>
> Here's a story that happened to my 92 caddy (regular 4-door sedan) that
may
> help you out:
>
> About 2 yrs ago in mid summer, the ac in my Caddy started to go slowly but
> steadily - it would take longer and longer to cool dn the interior. After
> about a month later it quit completely - it would only blow hot air. The
> control panel would light up SERVICE A/C about 1 wk before it died
> completely. I took the car to a Caddy service center and they said the
> evaporator is clogged (a key part that sits inside the dash and condenses
> water from the air). The fix? - ~$1000, including parts and labor! I said
> forget it, pd the $50 diagnostics charges and went to a different shop
(also
> a Caddy place) because I wanted the A/C fixed but for all I know for a
> ~$1000 you can get a brand new system put in! Guess what? - the other
Caddy
> place knew after 15 mins the A/C was completely out of freon!!! (That was
> the gas used back then). For a total of $200 I got the leak fixed, A/C
> recharged with some ozone-friendly refrigerant and the SERVICE A/C light
> gone. The system does not work nearly as efficient as freon-based, only
> about 80% as efficient but it works great nonetheless - as well as it can
on
> a non-freon refrigerant.
>
> I wonder what some of the mechanics are doing at the service shops where
> labor rates are $100/hr and all they seem capable of is replacing the
engine
> oil and perhaps the oil filter...
>
> By the way, the efficiency of a freon-based A/C is incredible. I have
> experienced it. It's a pity it's bad for the environment.
>
> Another btw: These days modern cars do not use any gas or liquid in the
> A/C - they use what's known as Peltiers' modules which is pure electronics
> to cool down the air (no leaks to worry about). I know Caddy's have had it
> for at least 8 years in their vehicles. But there are some car makers (and
> they are in the majority) who still don't use it.
>
> -hth, me
>
>
>
> "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com> wrote in message
> news:<XPyPc.27148$Gk4.20092@fe1.texas.rr.com>...
> > I have a 99 TJ with an aftermarket A/C system installed. I didn't do
the
> > install myself, as I know next to nothing about A/C, except that it
should
> > be cold. ;-)
> >
> > Lately, it just doesn't seem to want to work right. Even on recirculate
> the
> > air doesn't get COLD. It is definitely not the 100 degree air coming in
> > from the outside, but it isn't cold either. Funny thing is, the air
> > actually gets cooler when I'm sitting still. For example, if I am
parked
> > and let it run for a few minutes, the air is pretty cold. As soon as I
> > start moving, that goes away. I would expect that on the outside air
> > setting, but not on recirculate. It's getting to the point that I can't
> > take my son around town with me because it is extremely hot in the back
> > seat.
> >
> > The system is less than a year old, but I'm about 10 hours away from the
> > place that installed it (mom and pop shop, so no chains to go to for
> > warranty work). What can I check? Is it just low on the coolant
chemical
> > (124a or whatever)?? By the way, this seemed to start after installing
my
> > 4" lift (no body lift). BUT, I installed the lift at the beginning of
> > summer, so that is likely a coincidence.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Eric
> > 99 TJ SE
> >
> >
>
>

 

So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.

Eric
"Peter D." <piotrekd@opt[removethispart]online.net> wrote in message
news:9PBPc.2693$vu2.1015861@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.ne t...
>
> Here's a story that happened to my 92 caddy (regular 4-door sedan) that
may
> help you out:
>
> About 2 yrs ago in mid summer, the ac in my Caddy started to go slowly but
> steadily - it would take longer and longer to cool dn the interior. After
> about a month later it quit completely - it would only blow hot air. The
> control panel would light up SERVICE A/C about 1 wk before it died
> completely. I took the car to a Caddy service center and they said the
> evaporator is clogged (a key part that sits inside the dash and condenses
> water from the air). The fix? - ~$1000, including parts and labor! I said
> forget it, pd the $50 diagnostics charges and went to a different shop
(also
> a Caddy place) because I wanted the A/C fixed but for all I know for a
> ~$1000 you can get a brand new system put in! Guess what? - the other
Caddy
> place knew after 15 mins the A/C was completely out of freon!!! (That was
> the gas used back then). For a total of $200 I got the leak fixed, A/C
> recharged with some ozone-friendly refrigerant and the SERVICE A/C light
> gone. The system does not work nearly as efficient as freon-based, only
> about 80% as efficient but it works great nonetheless - as well as it can
on
> a non-freon refrigerant.
>
> I wonder what some of the mechanics are doing at the service shops where
> labor rates are $100/hr and all they seem capable of is replacing the
engine
> oil and perhaps the oil filter...
>
> By the way, the efficiency of a freon-based A/C is incredible. I have
> experienced it. It's a pity it's bad for the environment.
>
> Another btw: These days modern cars do not use any gas or liquid in the
> A/C - they use what's known as Peltiers' modules which is pure electronics
> to cool down the air (no leaks to worry about). I know Caddy's have had it
> for at least 8 years in their vehicles. But there are some car makers (and
> they are in the majority) who still don't use it.
>
> -hth, me
>
>
>
> "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com> wrote in message
> news:<XPyPc.27148$Gk4.20092@fe1.texas.rr.com>...
> > I have a 99 TJ with an aftermarket A/C system installed. I didn't do
the
> > install myself, as I know next to nothing about A/C, except that it
should
> > be cold. ;-)
> >
> > Lately, it just doesn't seem to want to work right. Even on recirculate
> the
> > air doesn't get COLD. It is definitely not the 100 degree air coming in
> > from the outside, but it isn't cold either. Funny thing is, the air
> > actually gets cooler when I'm sitting still. For example, if I am
parked
> > and let it run for a few minutes, the air is pretty cold. As soon as I
> > start moving, that goes away. I would expect that on the outside air
> > setting, but not on recirculate. It's getting to the point that I can't
> > take my son around town with me because it is extremely hot in the back
> > seat.
> >
> > The system is less than a year old, but I'm about 10 hours away from the
> > place that installed it (mom and pop shop, so no chains to go to for
> > warranty work). What can I check? Is it just low on the coolant
chemical
> > (124a or whatever)?? By the way, this seemed to start after installing
my
> > 4" lift (no body lift). BUT, I installed the lift at the beginning of
> > summer, so that is likely a coincidence.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Eric
> > 99 TJ SE
> >
> >
>
>

 

So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.

Eric
"Peter D." <piotrekd@opt[removethispart]online.net> wrote in message
news:9PBPc.2693$vu2.1015861@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.ne t...
>
> Here's a story that happened to my 92 caddy (regular 4-door sedan) that
may
> help you out:
>
> About 2 yrs ago in mid summer, the ac in my Caddy started to go slowly but
> steadily - it would take longer and longer to cool dn the interior. After
> about a month later it quit completely - it would only blow hot air. The
> control panel would light up SERVICE A/C about 1 wk before it died
> completely. I took the car to a Caddy service center and they said the
> evaporator is clogged (a key part that sits inside the dash and condenses
> water from the air). The fix? - ~$1000, including parts and labor! I said
> forget it, pd the $50 diagnostics charges and went to a different shop
(also
> a Caddy place) because I wanted the A/C fixed but for all I know for a
> ~$1000 you can get a brand new system put in! Guess what? - the other
Caddy
> place knew after 15 mins the A/C was completely out of freon!!! (That was
> the gas used back then). For a total of $200 I got the leak fixed, A/C
> recharged with some ozone-friendly refrigerant and the SERVICE A/C light
> gone. The system does not work nearly as efficient as freon-based, only
> about 80% as efficient but it works great nonetheless - as well as it can
on
> a non-freon refrigerant.
>
> I wonder what some of the mechanics are doing at the service shops where
> labor rates are $100/hr and all they seem capable of is replacing the
engine
> oil and perhaps the oil filter...
>
> By the way, the efficiency of a freon-based A/C is incredible. I have
> experienced it. It's a pity it's bad for the environment.
>
> Another btw: These days modern cars do not use any gas or liquid in the
> A/C - they use what's known as Peltiers' modules which is pure electronics
> to cool down the air (no leaks to worry about). I know Caddy's have had it
> for at least 8 years in their vehicles. But there are some car makers (and
> they are in the majority) who still don't use it.
>
> -hth, me
>
>
>
> "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com> wrote in message
> news:<XPyPc.27148$Gk4.20092@fe1.texas.rr.com>...
> > I have a 99 TJ with an aftermarket A/C system installed. I didn't do
the
> > install myself, as I know next to nothing about A/C, except that it
should
> > be cold. ;-)
> >
> > Lately, it just doesn't seem to want to work right. Even on recirculate
> the
> > air doesn't get COLD. It is definitely not the 100 degree air coming in
> > from the outside, but it isn't cold either. Funny thing is, the air
> > actually gets cooler when I'm sitting still. For example, if I am
parked
> > and let it run for a few minutes, the air is pretty cold. As soon as I
> > start moving, that goes away. I would expect that on the outside air
> > setting, but not on recirculate. It's getting to the point that I can't
> > take my son around town with me because it is extremely hot in the back
> > seat.
> >
> > The system is less than a year old, but I'm about 10 hours away from the
> > place that installed it (mom and pop shop, so no chains to go to for
> > warranty work). What can I check? Is it just low on the coolant
chemical
> > (124a or whatever)?? By the way, this seemed to start after installing
my
> > 4" lift (no body lift). BUT, I installed the lift at the beginning of
> > summer, so that is likely a coincidence.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Eric
> > 99 TJ SE
> >
> >
>
>

 

So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.

Eric
"Peter D." <piotrekd@opt[removethispart]online.net> wrote in message
news:9PBPc.2693$vu2.1015861@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.ne t...
>
> Here's a story that happened to my 92 caddy (regular 4-door sedan) that
may
> help you out:
>
> About 2 yrs ago in mid summer, the ac in my Caddy started to go slowly but
> steadily - it would take longer and longer to cool dn the interior. After
> about a month later it quit completely - it would only blow hot air. The
> control panel would light up SERVICE A/C about 1 wk before it died
> completely. I took the car to a Caddy service center and they said the
> evaporator is clogged (a key part that sits inside the dash and condenses
> water from the air). The fix? - ~$1000, including parts and labor! I said
> forget it, pd the $50 diagnostics charges and went to a different shop
(also
> a Caddy place) because I wanted the A/C fixed but for all I know for a
> ~$1000 you can get a brand new system put in! Guess what? - the other
Caddy
> place knew after 15 mins the A/C was completely out of freon!!! (That was
> the gas used back then). For a total of $200 I got the leak fixed, A/C
> recharged with some ozone-friendly refrigerant and the SERVICE A/C light
> gone. The system does not work nearly as efficient as freon-based, only
> about 80% as efficient but it works great nonetheless - as well as it can
on
> a non-freon refrigerant.
>
> I wonder what some of the mechanics are doing at the service shops where
> labor rates are $100/hr and all they seem capable of is replacing the
engine
> oil and perhaps the oil filter...
>
> By the way, the efficiency of a freon-based A/C is incredible. I have
> experienced it. It's a pity it's bad for the environment.
>
> Another btw: These days modern cars do not use any gas or liquid in the
> A/C - they use what's known as Peltiers' modules which is pure electronics
> to cool down the air (no leaks to worry about). I know Caddy's have had it
> for at least 8 years in their vehicles. But there are some car makers (and
> they are in the majority) who still don't use it.
>
> -hth, me
>
>
>
> "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com> wrote in message
> news:<XPyPc.27148$Gk4.20092@fe1.texas.rr.com>...
> > I have a 99 TJ with an aftermarket A/C system installed. I didn't do
the
> > install myself, as I know next to nothing about A/C, except that it
should
> > be cold. ;-)
> >
> > Lately, it just doesn't seem to want to work right. Even on recirculate
> the
> > air doesn't get COLD. It is definitely not the 100 degree air coming in
> > from the outside, but it isn't cold either. Funny thing is, the air
> > actually gets cooler when I'm sitting still. For example, if I am
parked
> > and let it run for a few minutes, the air is pretty cold. As soon as I
> > start moving, that goes away. I would expect that on the outside air
> > setting, but not on recirculate. It's getting to the point that I can't
> > take my son around town with me because it is extremely hot in the back
> > seat.
> >
> > The system is less than a year old, but I'm about 10 hours away from the
> > place that installed it (mom and pop shop, so no chains to go to for
> > warranty work). What can I check? Is it just low on the coolant
chemical
> > (124a or whatever)?? By the way, this seemed to start after installing
my
> > 4" lift (no body lift). BUT, I installed the lift at the beginning of
> > summer, so that is likely a coincidence.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Eric
> > 99 TJ SE
> >
> >
>
>

 

Eric did pass the time by typing:
> So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
> know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
> parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
> old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.

You can do some basic checking.

Does the compressor run with the AC on.
Does it cycle or run all the time.

If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)

If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
side.

If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.

If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
you talk about good AC at idle.


--
DougW

 

Eric did pass the time by typing:
> So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
> know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
> parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
> old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.

You can do some basic checking.

Does the compressor run with the AC on.
Does it cycle or run all the time.

If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)

If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
side.

If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.

If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
you talk about good AC at idle.


--
DougW

 

Eric did pass the time by typing:
> So, in other words, take it to a shop and have them check it out. Didn't
> know if there was any testing/looking I could do myself. If any of the
> parts are bad, they should still be under warranty. Less than 12 months
> old.. labor will have to come out of my pocket, though.

You can do some basic checking.

Does the compressor run with the AC on.
Does it cycle or run all the time.

If it's cycling put a hand on the inlet and outlet to
the condenser (at the firewall) both should be very cold
to the touch. (if this is the case you have enough gas)

If one is cold and the other warmer by about 10deg then you
could be low. Checking requires a pressure gauge on the low
side.

If it runs all the time you might be low on gas.
Then you just have to get a pressure gauge for the type
of refrigerant used in the system and follow the directions.

If it cycles properly then you may have a vac leak where there
is just enough vac to operate the doors when your at idle but not
enough under acceleration or driving. I suspect this option since
you talk about good AC at idle.


--
DougW