c

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:5dhhc.63107$ec1.11712@okepread01...
> Lee Ayrton did pass the time by typing:
> > OK, help me out, please. I'm feeling stupid here, it must be the sudden
> > change in the weather.
>
> It's a Jeep thing. :)
>
> > The harmonic balancer in my `79 CJ-5 258 had a bit of wobble in the
outer
> > ring -- probably as a result of that engine, without Jeep, sitting in a
> > field for a decade with the front of the engine held up with a block
under
> > the balancer.
>
> That would do it.
>
> > Today's a nice day to get greasy, so I propped the radiator up enough to
> > get a socket on the puller on the balancer through the grill and popped
it
> > off. So far, so good.
>
> Been there, cept I had to pull the radiator.
>
> > I worked the new, out of the box, balancer on in stages with
successively
> > shorter bolts. The real bolt and spacer seem to be seated, but the
pulley
> > bolted to the balancer isn't lining up with the water pump and
alternator,
> > it is about 1/8" too far forward. Is there a wrong but nearly fits
> > balancer for this engine, or does it simply need to go back further?
>

Sometimes the key on the crank is the problem. It is usually a woodruff key
which is basically a half round shape on the part that goes into the keyway
in the crank snout. The key can catch on a burr in the balancer keyway and
the back of the key will raise up, essentially forming a lock. Personally,
if it isn't too much hassle to pop it back off, I would do that. Then check
the key and the slot in the new balancer for burrs and sharp edges. A small,
fine file, or one of your wife's emory boards for doing her nails will work
just fine. Make sure the key is all the way down in the slot and also make
sure that the tup surface of the key is parallel with the crank snout. I
usually put a little anti-sieze in the balancer hole to kind of lubricate
things a little. Not much of it makes it in because it is a press fit, but
it does help.

Chris

Mike Romain

If you are going to change the seal, you have to loosen the timing cover
to do it right.

The seal needs to be installed in the cover, then the balancer slipped
on, then the cover slides around to center the seal on the balancer,
then you tighten the cover down, pull off and put the balancer back in
in for good.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Will Honea wrote:
>
> Working from memory, I think that it went flush on the end. I DO know
> that that bolt in the crank is not fragile! I had to bolt a holding
> bar onto the balancer then jam that against the frame while me and my
> half inch breaker bar joined forces with about 3 feet of pipe to break
> the sucker loose - just before I gave up and pulled the front end off
> so I could reach it with an impact wrench. I'm guessing now, but it
> seems to me that the book called for 75 ft pounds (OK, I got up and
> looked. It's 80 ft pounds lubricated - that's snug). Mine was a
> pretty snug fit over the crank and I used several washer stacks to get
> it down but I also lubed the shaft/bore while I was greasing the seal.
> BTW, I hope you changed the seal while it was out - sitting that long
> will probably result in another trip into it pretty soon anyway to
> replace the dried out and hardened one. I think mine lasted about
> 3-4000 miles after changing the balancer before the I was back at it.
> Odd note: they wanted $28 for the seal alone while the whole timing
> cover gasket set with the seal included was only something like $7 -
> go figure.
>
> On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 18:46:10 UTC Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > OK, help me out, please. I'm feeling stupid here, it must be the sudden
> > change in the weather.
> >
> > The harmonic balancer in my `79 CJ-5 258 had a bit of wobble in the outer
> > ring -- probably as a result of that engine, without Jeep, sitting in a
> > field for a decade with the front of the engine held up with a block under
> > the balancer. It now has new bearings, new seals, etc. anyway so that's
> > not an issue.
> >
> > Today's a nice day to get greasy, so I propped the radiator up enough to
> > get a socket on the puller on the balancer through the grill and popped it
> > off. So far, so good.
> >
> > I worked the new, out of the box, balancer on in stages with successively
> > shorter bolts. The real bolt and spacer seem to be seated, but the pulley
> > bolted to the balancer isn't lining up with the water pump and alternator,
> > it is about 1/8" too far forward. Is there a wrong but nearly fits
> > balancer for this engine, or does it simply need to go back further? I'm
> > reluctant to force the damned thing (visions of the crank threads turning
> > into a pile of fine shavings dance in my head) unless I really need to.
> >
> > Should the face of the crank be flush with the face of the balancer? Mine
> > seems to be sitting back at that small step inside the balancer, but --
> > stupidly -- I didn't look at the original before pulling it apart to see
> > the relationship.
> >
> > Such fun I have sometimes...
> >
> >
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Mike Romain

If you are going to change the seal, you have to loosen the timing cover
to do it right.

The seal needs to be installed in the cover, then the balancer slipped
on, then the cover slides around to center the seal on the balancer,
then you tighten the cover down, pull off and put the balancer back in
in for good.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Will Honea wrote:
>
> Working from memory, I think that it went flush on the end. I DO know
> that that bolt in the crank is not fragile! I had to bolt a holding
> bar onto the balancer then jam that against the frame while me and my
> half inch breaker bar joined forces with about 3 feet of pipe to break
> the sucker loose - just before I gave up and pulled the front end off
> so I could reach it with an impact wrench. I'm guessing now, but it
> seems to me that the book called for 75 ft pounds (OK, I got up and
> looked. It's 80 ft pounds lubricated - that's snug). Mine was a
> pretty snug fit over the crank and I used several washer stacks to get
> it down but I also lubed the shaft/bore while I was greasing the seal.
> BTW, I hope you changed the seal while it was out - sitting that long
> will probably result in another trip into it pretty soon anyway to
> replace the dried out and hardened one. I think mine lasted about
> 3-4000 miles after changing the balancer before the I was back at it.
> Odd note: they wanted $28 for the seal alone while the whole timing
> cover gasket set with the seal included was only something like $7 -
> go figure.
>
> On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 18:46:10 UTC Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > OK, help me out, please. I'm feeling stupid here, it must be the sudden
> > change in the weather.
> >
> > The harmonic balancer in my `79 CJ-5 258 had a bit of wobble in the outer
> > ring -- probably as a result of that engine, without Jeep, sitting in a
> > field for a decade with the front of the engine held up with a block under
> > the balancer. It now has new bearings, new seals, etc. anyway so that's
> > not an issue.
> >
> > Today's a nice day to get greasy, so I propped the radiator up enough to
> > get a socket on the puller on the balancer through the grill and popped it
> > off. So far, so good.
> >
> > I worked the new, out of the box, balancer on in stages with successively
> > shorter bolts. The real bolt and spacer seem to be seated, but the pulley
> > bolted to the balancer isn't lining up with the water pump and alternator,
> > it is about 1/8" too far forward. Is there a wrong but nearly fits
> > balancer for this engine, or does it simply need to go back further? I'm
> > reluctant to force the damned thing (visions of the crank threads turning
> > into a pile of fine shavings dance in my head) unless I really need to.
> >
> > Should the face of the crank be flush with the face of the balancer? Mine
> > seems to be sitting back at that small step inside the balancer, but --
> > stupidly -- I didn't look at the original before pulling it apart to see
> > the relationship.
> >
> > Such fun I have sometimes...
> >
> >
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Mike Romain

If you are going to change the seal, you have to loosen the timing cover
to do it right.

The seal needs to be installed in the cover, then the balancer slipped
on, then the cover slides around to center the seal on the balancer,
then you tighten the cover down, pull off and put the balancer back in
in for good.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Will Honea wrote:
>
> Working from memory, I think that it went flush on the end. I DO know
> that that bolt in the crank is not fragile! I had to bolt a holding
> bar onto the balancer then jam that against the frame while me and my
> half inch breaker bar joined forces with about 3 feet of pipe to break
> the sucker loose - just before I gave up and pulled the front end off
> so I could reach it with an impact wrench. I'm guessing now, but it
> seems to me that the book called for 75 ft pounds (OK, I got up and
> looked. It's 80 ft pounds lubricated - that's snug). Mine was a
> pretty snug fit over the crank and I used several washer stacks to get
> it down but I also lubed the shaft/bore while I was greasing the seal.
> BTW, I hope you changed the seal while it was out - sitting that long
> will probably result in another trip into it pretty soon anyway to
> replace the dried out and hardened one. I think mine lasted about
> 3-4000 miles after changing the balancer before the I was back at it.
> Odd note: they wanted $28 for the seal alone while the whole timing
> cover gasket set with the seal included was only something like $7 -
> go figure.
>
> On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 18:46:10 UTC Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > OK, help me out, please. I'm feeling stupid here, it must be the sudden
> > change in the weather.
> >
> > The harmonic balancer in my `79 CJ-5 258 had a bit of wobble in the outer
> > ring -- probably as a result of that engine, without Jeep, sitting in a
> > field for a decade with the front of the engine held up with a block under
> > the balancer. It now has new bearings, new seals, etc. anyway so that's
> > not an issue.
> >
> > Today's a nice day to get greasy, so I propped the radiator up enough to
> > get a socket on the puller on the balancer through the grill and popped it
> > off. So far, so good.
> >
> > I worked the new, out of the box, balancer on in stages with successively
> > shorter bolts. The real bolt and spacer seem to be seated, but the pulley
> > bolted to the balancer isn't lining up with the water pump and alternator,
> > it is about 1/8" too far forward. Is there a wrong but nearly fits
> > balancer for this engine, or does it simply need to go back further? I'm
> > reluctant to force the damned thing (visions of the crank threads turning
> > into a pile of fine shavings dance in my head) unless I really need to.
> >
> > Should the face of the crank be flush with the face of the balancer? Mine
> > seems to be sitting back at that small step inside the balancer, but --
> > stupidly -- I didn't look at the original before pulling it apart to see
> > the relationship.
> >
> > Such fun I have sometimes...
> >
> >
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Mike Romain

If you are going to change the seal, you have to loosen the timing cover
to do it right.

The seal needs to be installed in the cover, then the balancer slipped
on, then the cover slides around to center the seal on the balancer,
then you tighten the cover down, pull off and put the balancer back in
in for good.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Will Honea wrote:
>
> Working from memory, I think that it went flush on the end. I DO know
> that that bolt in the crank is not fragile! I had to bolt a holding
> bar onto the balancer then jam that against the frame while me and my
> half inch breaker bar joined forces with about 3 feet of pipe to break
> the sucker loose - just before I gave up and pulled the front end off
> so I could reach it with an impact wrench. I'm guessing now, but it
> seems to me that the book called for 75 ft pounds (OK, I got up and
> looked. It's 80 ft pounds lubricated - that's snug). Mine was a
> pretty snug fit over the crank and I used several washer stacks to get
> it down but I also lubed the shaft/bore while I was greasing the seal.
> BTW, I hope you changed the seal while it was out - sitting that long
> will probably result in another trip into it pretty soon anyway to
> replace the dried out and hardened one. I think mine lasted about
> 3-4000 miles after changing the balancer before the I was back at it.
> Odd note: they wanted $28 for the seal alone while the whole timing
> cover gasket set with the seal included was only something like $7 -
> go figure.
>
> On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 18:46:10 UTC Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > OK, help me out, please. I'm feeling stupid here, it must be the sudden
> > change in the weather.
> >
> > The harmonic balancer in my `79 CJ-5 258 had a bit of wobble in the outer
> > ring -- probably as a result of that engine, without Jeep, sitting in a
> > field for a decade with the front of the engine held up with a block under
> > the balancer. It now has new bearings, new seals, etc. anyway so that's
> > not an issue.
> >
> > Today's a nice day to get greasy, so I propped the radiator up enough to
> > get a socket on the puller on the balancer through the grill and popped it
> > off. So far, so good.
> >
> > I worked the new, out of the box, balancer on in stages with successively
> > shorter bolts. The real bolt and spacer seem to be seated, but the pulley
> > bolted to the balancer isn't lining up with the water pump and alternator,
> > it is about 1/8" too far forward. Is there a wrong but nearly fits
> > balancer for this engine, or does it simply need to go back further? I'm
> > reluctant to force the damned thing (visions of the crank threads turning
> > into a pile of fine shavings dance in my head) unless I really need to.
> >
> > Should the face of the crank be flush with the face of the balancer? Mine
> > seems to be sitting back at that small step inside the balancer, but --
> > stupidly -- I didn't look at the original before pulling it apart to see
> > the relationship.
> >
> > Such fun I have sometimes...
> >
> >
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

L0nD0t.$t0we11

For those new to the group, it probably should be pointed out
periodically that Bill doesn't much care for any jeep model
newer than the Conestoga... the original one with 72 inch wooden
wheels and genuine steel belt wrapped carefully around the
outer wooden rim. Engine options were either 4 or 6 horsepower.


Roughly 4/20/04 15:49, L.W.(ßill) ------ III's monkeys randomly typed:
> Real Jeep frames are open channel like the commercial trucks,
> therefore they don't hold water and rust out. Notice there's not mention
> of rust on this CJ-3B frame restoration:
> http://www.apple.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Owners/Ahlberg1.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
>>
>> Is that a "Real Jeep" chassis :-)
>>
>> Dave Milne, Scotland
>> '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ


--
Evolution is merely survival of the minimally adequate

L0nD0t.$t0we11

For those new to the group, it probably should be pointed out
periodically that Bill doesn't much care for any jeep model
newer than the Conestoga... the original one with 72 inch wooden
wheels and genuine steel belt wrapped carefully around the
outer wooden rim. Engine options were either 4 or 6 horsepower.


Roughly 4/20/04 15:49, L.W.(ßill) ------ III's monkeys randomly typed:
> Real Jeep frames are open channel like the commercial trucks,
> therefore they don't hold water and rust out. Notice there's not mention
> of rust on this CJ-3B frame restoration:
> http://www.apple.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Owners/Ahlberg1.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
>>
>> Is that a "Real Jeep" chassis :-)
>>
>> Dave Milne, Scotland
>> '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ


--
Evolution is merely survival of the minimally adequate

L0nD0t.$t0we11

For those new to the group, it probably should be pointed out
periodically that Bill doesn't much care for any jeep model
newer than the Conestoga... the original one with 72 inch wooden
wheels and genuine steel belt wrapped carefully around the
outer wooden rim. Engine options were either 4 or 6 horsepower.


Roughly 4/20/04 15:49, L.W.(ßill) ------ III's monkeys randomly typed:
> Real Jeep frames are open channel like the commercial trucks,
> therefore they don't hold water and rust out. Notice there's not mention
> of rust on this CJ-3B frame restoration:
> http://www.apple.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Owners/Ahlberg1.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
>>
>> Is that a "Real Jeep" chassis :-)
>>
>> Dave Milne, Scotland
>> '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ


--
Evolution is merely survival of the minimally adequate

L0nD0t.$t0we11

For those new to the group, it probably should be pointed out
periodically that Bill doesn't much care for any jeep model
newer than the Conestoga... the original one with 72 inch wooden
wheels and genuine steel belt wrapped carefully around the
outer wooden rim. Engine options were either 4 or 6 horsepower.


Roughly 4/20/04 15:49, L.W.(ßill) ------ III's monkeys randomly typed:
> Real Jeep frames are open channel like the commercial trucks,
> therefore they don't hold water and rust out. Notice there's not mention
> of rust on this CJ-3B frame restoration:
> http://www.apple.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Owners/Ahlberg1.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
>>
>> Is that a "Real Jeep" chassis :-)
>>
>> Dave Milne, Scotland
>> '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ


--
Evolution is merely survival of the minimally adequate

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

You may see the spare wagon wheel we used on the Butterfield stage
my parent used to get to our ranch in Del Mar, California, on the fence
behind me and my brother: http://www.----------.com/billJerry1948.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

"L0nD0t.$t0we11" wrote:
>
> For those new to the group, it probably should be pointed out
> periodically that Bill doesn't much care for any jeep model
> newer than the Conestoga... the original one with 72 inch wooden
> wheels and genuine steel belt wrapped carefully around the
> outer wooden rim. Engine options were either 4 or 6 horsepower.