Hank wrote:
> Well all, it's time to replace the battery in the Jeep. Was looking
for
> suggestions as to which to get.
>
> I'm prefferably looking for something that's totally sealed (or no
> matience at all). I currently run all the stock goodies for a 01
> Cherokee plus:
> 1000 watt amp (not running it that high) with a 1 Farad Cap
> Lightforce 170 Strikers (http://www.lightforceusa.com/rmdl170.html)
> Cobra CB
> Laptop (occasionally)
> Radar Detector
>
>
> I know I also need a stronger alternator soon, but before I'll put a
> new one in before I add any other goodies.
>
> TIA
>
> Hank

I do not have much experience with sealed batteries because I prefer a
battery that I have access to fill on my own as regular maintinence.
Always use distelled water, tap water will help corode battery which is
the grim reaper of lead batteries. The plates inside the battery flow
Pos. to Neg. via the plates and electrolyte (liquid). As a battery
runs down corrosion builds up between the plates and eventually shorts
out the plates and 'Presto' dead battery.
Whenever charging a battery use a tricle charge. On most chargers this
is 2 amps the 'low' setting. Using a high setting can cause excessive
heat and damage the plates. High ammperage is a last resort to
charging a battery.
Maintenance is the gig with any auto, especially a Jeep. When under
the hood it only takes a minute to lift the two lids and check the
level. Battery maintenance should also include cleaning posts and
clamps keeping that 'white stuff' off. At least every fall I put a
good coat of Vaseline on each post to deter any corrosion.
I like the idea of the dual post - using the side post for alternative
equipment. I find side post difficult to access. If used, preferably
place side post to inside of compartment avoiding contact with body of
auto (if mounts come loose).
One last comment on batteries and maybe the one most overlooked when
troubleshooting. The other end of the Negative cable is attached to
the engine (on all of my vehicles). This can come loose even when it
looks or even does not 'shake'. Only a good snug with a wrench will
make sure it is making good contact. I had a (company) Chevy van that
I had to get underneath many times to get at the Neg cable.
Sorry so long. I'm old school concerning batteries from taking care of
a battery locker on a US Navy Destroyer, WW II vintage.
Steve

 

Hank wrote:
> Well all, it's time to replace the battery in the Jeep. Was looking
for
> suggestions as to which to get.
>
> I'm prefferably looking for something that's totally sealed (or no
> matience at all). I currently run all the stock goodies for a 01
> Cherokee plus:
> 1000 watt amp (not running it that high) with a 1 Farad Cap
> Lightforce 170 Strikers (http://www.lightforceusa.com/rmdl170.html)
> Cobra CB
> Laptop (occasionally)
> Radar Detector
>
>
> I know I also need a stronger alternator soon, but before I'll put a
> new one in before I add any other goodies.
>
> TIA
>
> Hank

I do not have much experience with sealed batteries because I prefer a
battery that I have access to fill on my own as regular maintinence.
Always use distelled water, tap water will help corode battery which is
the grim reaper of lead batteries. The plates inside the battery flow
Pos. to Neg. via the plates and electrolyte (liquid). As a battery
runs down corrosion builds up between the plates and eventually shorts
out the plates and 'Presto' dead battery.
Whenever charging a battery use a tricle charge. On most chargers this
is 2 amps the 'low' setting. Using a high setting can cause excessive
heat and damage the plates. High ammperage is a last resort to
charging a battery.
Maintenance is the gig with any auto, especially a Jeep. When under
the hood it only takes a minute to lift the two lids and check the
level. Battery maintenance should also include cleaning posts and
clamps keeping that 'white stuff' off. At least every fall I put a
good coat of Vaseline on each post to deter any corrosion.
I like the idea of the dual post - using the side post for alternative
equipment. I find side post difficult to access. If used, preferably
place side post to inside of compartment avoiding contact with body of
auto (if mounts come loose).
One last comment on batteries and maybe the one most overlooked when
troubleshooting. The other end of the Negative cable is attached to
the engine (on all of my vehicles). This can come loose even when it
looks or even does not 'shake'. Only a good snug with a wrench will
make sure it is making good contact. I had a (company) Chevy van that
I had to get underneath many times to get at the Neg cable.
Sorry so long. I'm old school concerning batteries from taking care of
a battery locker on a US Navy Destroyer, WW II vintage.
Steve

 

Hank wrote:
> Well all, it's time to replace the battery in the Jeep. Was looking
for
> suggestions as to which to get.
>
> I'm prefferably looking for something that's totally sealed (or no
> matience at all). I currently run all the stock goodies for a 01
> Cherokee plus:
> 1000 watt amp (not running it that high) with a 1 Farad Cap
> Lightforce 170 Strikers (http://www.lightforceusa.com/rmdl170.html)
> Cobra CB
> Laptop (occasionally)
> Radar Detector
>
>
> I know I also need a stronger alternator soon, but before I'll put a
> new one in before I add any other goodies.
>
> TIA
>
> Hank

I do not have much experience with sealed batteries because I prefer a
battery that I have access to fill on my own as regular maintinence.
Always use distelled water, tap water will help corode battery which is
the grim reaper of lead batteries. The plates inside the battery flow
Pos. to Neg. via the plates and electrolyte (liquid). As a battery
runs down corrosion builds up between the plates and eventually shorts
out the plates and 'Presto' dead battery.
Whenever charging a battery use a tricle charge. On most chargers this
is 2 amps the 'low' setting. Using a high setting can cause excessive
heat and damage the plates. High ammperage is a last resort to
charging a battery.
Maintenance is the gig with any auto, especially a Jeep. When under
the hood it only takes a minute to lift the two lids and check the
level. Battery maintenance should also include cleaning posts and
clamps keeping that 'white stuff' off. At least every fall I put a
good coat of Vaseline on each post to deter any corrosion.
I like the idea of the dual post - using the side post for alternative
equipment. I find side post difficult to access. If used, preferably
place side post to inside of compartment avoiding contact with body of
auto (if mounts come loose).
One last comment on batteries and maybe the one most overlooked when
troubleshooting. The other end of the Negative cable is attached to
the engine (on all of my vehicles). This can come loose even when it
looks or even does not 'shake'. Only a good snug with a wrench will
make sure it is making good contact. I had a (company) Chevy van that
I had to get underneath many times to get at the Neg cable.
Sorry so long. I'm old school concerning batteries from taking care of
a battery locker on a US Navy Destroyer, WW II vintage.
Steve

 

popeyeball did pass the time by typing:

> Whenever charging a battery use a tricle charge. On most chargers this
> is 2 amps the 'low' setting. Using a high setting can cause excessive
> heat and damage the plates. High ammperage is a last resort to
> charging a battery.

Yep. High being 8A or better. 6A is good for charging over a several
hours while 2A can almost be used to maintain a battery overnight.

The battery in my ZJ died earlier this year. I charged it up at 6A while
watching it on a voltmeter. Brought it up to 16V on the charger (12.6
off the charger) and let it settle, then brought it up again using a 2A
charge.

The battery now charges fully while driving and test out like it was new.

--
DougW

 

popeyeball did pass the time by typing:

> Whenever charging a battery use a tricle charge. On most chargers this
> is 2 amps the 'low' setting. Using a high setting can cause excessive
> heat and damage the plates. High ammperage is a last resort to
> charging a battery.

Yep. High being 8A or better. 6A is good for charging over a several
hours while 2A can almost be used to maintain a battery overnight.

The battery in my ZJ died earlier this year. I charged it up at 6A while
watching it on a voltmeter. Brought it up to 16V on the charger (12.6
off the charger) and let it settle, then brought it up again using a 2A
charge.

The battery now charges fully while driving and test out like it was new.

--
DougW

 

popeyeball did pass the time by typing:

> Whenever charging a battery use a tricle charge. On most chargers this
> is 2 amps the 'low' setting. Using a high setting can cause excessive
> heat and damage the plates. High ammperage is a last resort to
> charging a battery.

Yep. High being 8A or better. 6A is good for charging over a several
hours while 2A can almost be used to maintain a battery overnight.

The battery in my ZJ died earlier this year. I charged it up at 6A while
watching it on a voltmeter. Brought it up to 16V on the charger (12.6
off the charger) and let it settle, then brought it up again using a 2A
charge.

The battery now charges fully while driving and test out like it was new.

--
DougW

 

Once we get that whole cold portable fusion thing figured out in a
couple centuries hydrogen will be GREAT!

Matt

 

Once we get that whole cold portable fusion thing figured out in a
couple centuries hydrogen will be GREAT!

Matt

 

Once we get that whole cold portable fusion thing figured out in a
couple centuries hydrogen will be GREAT!

Matt

 

My uncle worked in the Goodyear plant in Akron, OH and used to get neat
jars of sodium chips. That stuff is more fun! Throw a chunk in the
snow, it leaves a crater. Just don't drop the jar or let snow fall in
it :) The oil they suspend it in starts to boil!


Matt