battery strap connection - options?
10-06-2007, 07:53 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: battery strap connection - options?
Those saddle clamps are only good for about a year before they need
service, even with dielectric grease on them. They make different
quality or strength ones including brass ones.
If I leave mine for two years, I get a failure. I use a wire brush on a
drill to polish back up the copper cable strands, then I re-twist them
and coat them with dielectric grease again once clamped down.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
P.Schuman wrote:
> when our son got home with the GC,
> we went looking around for any cause for our recent problems
> with the tailgate - like a simple fuse -
>
> In doing so - we stumbled across another challenge - NO power -
>
> Awhile ago, we had lost electric power while driving,
> as the dashboard was flickering and the volts was like ZERO.
> So - we drove directly to the local dealer thinking the worst.
>
> As it turned out, the negative battery connector was cracked.
> They snipped off the molded connector, stripped the 2 large wires,
> and replaced it with a screw down saddle connector,
> (the wires go in and there is a strap across them that screws down on each side)
>
> Well - today - the wires were a little loose,
> hence the loss of total DC electrical power while we were poking around.
>
> Not sure of the remedy on this....
> There is 1/2" of copper (now tarnished)
> inside the strap connector,
> and another 1/2" of insulation until the large wrapped "bundle".
>
> SO - any suggestions on how to clean up the existing 1/2" copper
> and use the same type or different connector to get a really solid grip ?
>
>
>
service, even with dielectric grease on them. They make different
quality or strength ones including brass ones.
If I leave mine for two years, I get a failure. I use a wire brush on a
drill to polish back up the copper cable strands, then I re-twist them
and coat them with dielectric grease again once clamped down.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
P.Schuman wrote:
> when our son got home with the GC,
> we went looking around for any cause for our recent problems
> with the tailgate - like a simple fuse -
>
> In doing so - we stumbled across another challenge - NO power -
>
> Awhile ago, we had lost electric power while driving,
> as the dashboard was flickering and the volts was like ZERO.
> So - we drove directly to the local dealer thinking the worst.
>
> As it turned out, the negative battery connector was cracked.
> They snipped off the molded connector, stripped the 2 large wires,
> and replaced it with a screw down saddle connector,
> (the wires go in and there is a strap across them that screws down on each side)
>
> Well - today - the wires were a little loose,
> hence the loss of total DC electrical power while we were poking around.
>
> Not sure of the remedy on this....
> There is 1/2" of copper (now tarnished)
> inside the strap connector,
> and another 1/2" of insulation until the large wrapped "bundle".
>
> SO - any suggestions on how to clean up the existing 1/2" copper
> and use the same type or different connector to get a really solid grip ?
>
>
>
10-06-2007, 09:41 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: battery strap connection - options?
I think you need to change grease manufacturers. If your using dielectric
grease and you still need to clean them every two years then somethings
obviously wrong with your grease, because thats is entirely what its purpose
is....to prevent oxidation and corrosion.
Mike Romain wrote:
>Those saddle clamps are only good for about a year before they need
>service, even with dielectric grease on them. They make different
>quality or strength ones including brass ones.
>
>If I leave mine for two years, I get a failure. I use a wire brush on a
>drill to polish back up the copper cable strands, then I re-twist them
>and coat them with dielectric grease again once clamped down.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>> when our son got home with the GC,
>> we went looking around for any cause for our recent problems
>[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>> SO - any suggestions on how to clean up the existing 1/2" copper
>> and use the same type or different connector to get a really solid grip ?
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
grease and you still need to clean them every two years then somethings
obviously wrong with your grease, because thats is entirely what its purpose
is....to prevent oxidation and corrosion.
Mike Romain wrote:
>Those saddle clamps are only good for about a year before they need
>service, even with dielectric grease on them. They make different
>quality or strength ones including brass ones.
>
>If I leave mine for two years, I get a failure. I use a wire brush on a
>drill to polish back up the copper cable strands, then I re-twist them
>and coat them with dielectric grease again once clamped down.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>> when our son got home with the GC,
>> we went looking around for any cause for our recent problems
>[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>> SO - any suggestions on how to clean up the existing 1/2" copper
>> and use the same type or different connector to get a really solid grip ?
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
10-06-2007, 09:41 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: battery strap connection - options?
I think you need to change grease manufacturers. If your using dielectric
grease and you still need to clean them every two years then somethings
obviously wrong with your grease, because thats is entirely what its purpose
is....to prevent oxidation and corrosion.
Mike Romain wrote:
>Those saddle clamps are only good for about a year before they need
>service, even with dielectric grease on them. They make different
>quality or strength ones including brass ones.
>
>If I leave mine for two years, I get a failure. I use a wire brush on a
>drill to polish back up the copper cable strands, then I re-twist them
>and coat them with dielectric grease again once clamped down.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>> when our son got home with the GC,
>> we went looking around for any cause for our recent problems
>[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>> SO - any suggestions on how to clean up the existing 1/2" copper
>> and use the same type or different connector to get a really solid grip ?
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
grease and you still need to clean them every two years then somethings
obviously wrong with your grease, because thats is entirely what its purpose
is....to prevent oxidation and corrosion.
Mike Romain wrote:
>Those saddle clamps are only good for about a year before they need
>service, even with dielectric grease on them. They make different
>quality or strength ones including brass ones.
>
>If I leave mine for two years, I get a failure. I use a wire brush on a
>drill to polish back up the copper cable strands, then I re-twist them
>and coat them with dielectric grease again once clamped down.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>> when our son got home with the GC,
>> we went looking around for any cause for our recent problems
>[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>> SO - any suggestions on how to clean up the existing 1/2" copper
>> and use the same type or different connector to get a really solid grip ?
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
10-06-2007, 09:41 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: battery strap connection - options?
I think you need to change grease manufacturers. If your using dielectric
grease and you still need to clean them every two years then somethings
obviously wrong with your grease, because thats is entirely what its purpose
is....to prevent oxidation and corrosion.
Mike Romain wrote:
>Those saddle clamps are only good for about a year before they need
>service, even with dielectric grease on them. They make different
>quality or strength ones including brass ones.
>
>If I leave mine for two years, I get a failure. I use a wire brush on a
>drill to polish back up the copper cable strands, then I re-twist them
>and coat them with dielectric grease again once clamped down.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>> when our son got home with the GC,
>> we went looking around for any cause for our recent problems
>[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>> SO - any suggestions on how to clean up the existing 1/2" copper
>> and use the same type or different connector to get a really solid grip ?
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
grease and you still need to clean them every two years then somethings
obviously wrong with your grease, because thats is entirely what its purpose
is....to prevent oxidation and corrosion.
Mike Romain wrote:
>Those saddle clamps are only good for about a year before they need
>service, even with dielectric grease on them. They make different
>quality or strength ones including brass ones.
>
>If I leave mine for two years, I get a failure. I use a wire brush on a
>drill to polish back up the copper cable strands, then I re-twist them
>and coat them with dielectric grease again once clamped down.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>> when our son got home with the GC,
>> we went looking around for any cause for our recent problems
>[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>> SO - any suggestions on how to clean up the existing 1/2" copper
>> and use the same type or different connector to get a really solid grip ?
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
10-06-2007, 09:41 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: battery strap connection - options?
I think you need to change grease manufacturers. If your using dielectric
grease and you still need to clean them every two years then somethings
obviously wrong with your grease, because thats is entirely what its purpose
is....to prevent oxidation and corrosion.
Mike Romain wrote:
>Those saddle clamps are only good for about a year before they need
>service, even with dielectric grease on them. They make different
>quality or strength ones including brass ones.
>
>If I leave mine for two years, I get a failure. I use a wire brush on a
>drill to polish back up the copper cable strands, then I re-twist them
>and coat them with dielectric grease again once clamped down.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>> when our son got home with the GC,
>> we went looking around for any cause for our recent problems
>[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>> SO - any suggestions on how to clean up the existing 1/2" copper
>> and use the same type or different connector to get a really solid grip ?
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
grease and you still need to clean them every two years then somethings
obviously wrong with your grease, because thats is entirely what its purpose
is....to prevent oxidation and corrosion.
Mike Romain wrote:
>Those saddle clamps are only good for about a year before they need
>service, even with dielectric grease on them. They make different
>quality or strength ones including brass ones.
>
>If I leave mine for two years, I get a failure. I use a wire brush on a
>drill to polish back up the copper cable strands, then I re-twist them
>and coat them with dielectric grease again once clamped down.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>> when our son got home with the GC,
>> we went looking around for any cause for our recent problems
>[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>> SO - any suggestions on how to clean up the existing 1/2" copper
>> and use the same type or different connector to get a really solid grip ?
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
10-06-2007, 10:52 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: battery wire connection - options?
the overall problem is having 2x cables,
plus, with them snipped at the old molded connector,
which makes them a tad short,
there might be some mechanical leverage
of the "bundle" pulling down on the connection.
tnx for the discussion -
I'll look around at the auto parts store for another clamp connector
before I go back and really trust it...
plus, with them snipped at the old molded connector,
which makes them a tad short,
there might be some mechanical leverage
of the "bundle" pulling down on the connection.
tnx for the discussion -
I'll look around at the auto parts store for another clamp connector
before I go back and really trust it...
10-06-2007, 10:52 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: battery wire connection - options?
the overall problem is having 2x cables,
plus, with them snipped at the old molded connector,
which makes them a tad short,
there might be some mechanical leverage
of the "bundle" pulling down on the connection.
tnx for the discussion -
I'll look around at the auto parts store for another clamp connector
before I go back and really trust it...
plus, with them snipped at the old molded connector,
which makes them a tad short,
there might be some mechanical leverage
of the "bundle" pulling down on the connection.
tnx for the discussion -
I'll look around at the auto parts store for another clamp connector
before I go back and really trust it...
10-06-2007, 10:52 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: battery wire connection - options?
the overall problem is having 2x cables,
plus, with them snipped at the old molded connector,
which makes them a tad short,
there might be some mechanical leverage
of the "bundle" pulling down on the connection.
tnx for the discussion -
I'll look around at the auto parts store for another clamp connector
before I go back and really trust it...
plus, with them snipped at the old molded connector,
which makes them a tad short,
there might be some mechanical leverage
of the "bundle" pulling down on the connection.
tnx for the discussion -
I'll look around at the auto parts store for another clamp connector
before I go back and really trust it...
10-06-2007, 10:52 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: battery wire connection - options?
the overall problem is having 2x cables,
plus, with them snipped at the old molded connector,
which makes them a tad short,
there might be some mechanical leverage
of the "bundle" pulling down on the connection.
tnx for the discussion -
I'll look around at the auto parts store for another clamp connector
before I go back and really trust it...
plus, with them snipped at the old molded connector,
which makes them a tad short,
there might be some mechanical leverage
of the "bundle" pulling down on the connection.
tnx for the discussion -
I'll look around at the auto parts store for another clamp connector
before I go back and really trust it...
10-07-2007, 01:21 AM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: battery strap connection - options?
BEFORE you go replacing the negative battery cable.. call the dealer
and ask them how much the starter altenator harness is. Oh, I
recommend having a dephibulator handy, you might need it.
Yes he will need the harness, due to one of those negative wires
actualy splits of and runs to the funny "block" connector on the back
of the altenator, and the other split runs to the block. (just below
the coil) .
I just had a simular problem with the wifeys 93ZJ, when the altenator
failed. I ended up having to splice the negative wires together (pain
in the $#%).
I would suggest buying a solder on battery clamp, and use some good
quality rosen core solder with a blow torch and solder a new clamp on
the cables.
Snow...
93 ZJ
89 Caprice Waggy.
and ask them how much the starter altenator harness is. Oh, I
recommend having a dephibulator handy, you might need it.
Yes he will need the harness, due to one of those negative wires
actualy splits of and runs to the funny "block" connector on the back
of the altenator, and the other split runs to the block. (just below
the coil) .
I just had a simular problem with the wifeys 93ZJ, when the altenator
failed. I ended up having to splice the negative wires together (pain
in the $#%).
I would suggest buying a solder on battery clamp, and use some good
quality rosen core solder with a blow torch and solder a new clamp on
the cables.
Snow...
93 ZJ
89 Caprice Waggy.
