Bad news on the Valve Seal Replacement - Need advice
02-04-2004, 10:05 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Bad news on the Valve Seal Replacement - Need advice
Our local auto parts stores sell compression testers for less than ten
bucks.
Do a compression test dry and if they are all the same, drop the tester
fast and back away slowly, very slowly......
;-)
If one or more are low, toss a tablespoon of oil into the spark plug
hole and test that low one again. If the compression comes way up, you
have bad rings, if the compression stays low and only moves a couple lb,
you have a bad valve or cooked head gasket.
If two side by side are low, it's the headgasket between them usually.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an oily film
> around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark plug
> gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
>
> When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and didn't see
> any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check the
> plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
>
> Questions:
> Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where the
> thread ends) sound normal or bad?
>
> Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this results?
>
> I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
>
> I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
>
> Thanks,
bucks.
Do a compression test dry and if they are all the same, drop the tester
fast and back away slowly, very slowly......
;-)
If one or more are low, toss a tablespoon of oil into the spark plug
hole and test that low one again. If the compression comes way up, you
have bad rings, if the compression stays low and only moves a couple lb,
you have a bad valve or cooked head gasket.
If two side by side are low, it's the headgasket between them usually.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an oily film
> around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark plug
> gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
>
> When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and didn't see
> any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check the
> plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
>
> Questions:
> Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where the
> thread ends) sound normal or bad?
>
> Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this results?
>
> I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
>
> I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
>
> Thanks,
02-04-2004, 10:05 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Bad news on the Valve Seal Replacement - Need advice
Our local auto parts stores sell compression testers for less than ten
bucks.
Do a compression test dry and if they are all the same, drop the tester
fast and back away slowly, very slowly......
;-)
If one or more are low, toss a tablespoon of oil into the spark plug
hole and test that low one again. If the compression comes way up, you
have bad rings, if the compression stays low and only moves a couple lb,
you have a bad valve or cooked head gasket.
If two side by side are low, it's the headgasket between them usually.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an oily film
> around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark plug
> gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
>
> When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and didn't see
> any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check the
> plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
>
> Questions:
> Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where the
> thread ends) sound normal or bad?
>
> Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this results?
>
> I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
>
> I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
>
> Thanks,
bucks.
Do a compression test dry and if they are all the same, drop the tester
fast and back away slowly, very slowly......
;-)
If one or more are low, toss a tablespoon of oil into the spark plug
hole and test that low one again. If the compression comes way up, you
have bad rings, if the compression stays low and only moves a couple lb,
you have a bad valve or cooked head gasket.
If two side by side are low, it's the headgasket between them usually.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an oily film
> around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark plug
> gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
>
> When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and didn't see
> any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check the
> plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
>
> Questions:
> Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where the
> thread ends) sound normal or bad?
>
> Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this results?
>
> I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
>
> I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
>
> Thanks,
02-04-2004, 10:05 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Bad news on the Valve Seal Replacement - Need advice
Our local auto parts stores sell compression testers for less than ten
bucks.
Do a compression test dry and if they are all the same, drop the tester
fast and back away slowly, very slowly......
;-)
If one or more are low, toss a tablespoon of oil into the spark plug
hole and test that low one again. If the compression comes way up, you
have bad rings, if the compression stays low and only moves a couple lb,
you have a bad valve or cooked head gasket.
If two side by side are low, it's the headgasket between them usually.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an oily film
> around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark plug
> gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
>
> When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and didn't see
> any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check the
> plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
>
> Questions:
> Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where the
> thread ends) sound normal or bad?
>
> Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this results?
>
> I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
>
> I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
>
> Thanks,
bucks.
Do a compression test dry and if they are all the same, drop the tester
fast and back away slowly, very slowly......
;-)
If one or more are low, toss a tablespoon of oil into the spark plug
hole and test that low one again. If the compression comes way up, you
have bad rings, if the compression stays low and only moves a couple lb,
you have a bad valve or cooked head gasket.
If two side by side are low, it's the headgasket between them usually.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an oily film
> around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark plug
> gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
>
> When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and didn't see
> any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check the
> plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
>
> Questions:
> Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where the
> thread ends) sound normal or bad?
>
> Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this results?
>
> I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
>
> I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
>
> Thanks,
02-04-2004, 10:06 AM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Bad news on the Valve Seal Replacement - Need advice
Bill,
What exactly is the sympton you are trying to correct? Was the #2 plug
fouled and no longer firing? Or are you just checking your work.
There are many inconsistancies in your information. You say compression was
up and even across the board. But your finger sensed lower compression on
#2 when cranking (not a very scientific test) to locate TDC. Yet you make
no mention of sensing a higher rate of air flow when holding up the valves
with compressed air when doing that cyl (If you had so low a compression
that you could sense the diference holding your finger over the sparkplug
hole you surely would have heard a lot more air escaping when applying
compressed air to that cyl and it likely would not have held the valve up).
So, let's start at the beginning with what your initial problem was and
work through the entire process, probably something we should have done in
the beginning.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bvpm71$v06l4$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I don't know Bill, when I did the valve seal replacement #2 was the first
> one I did and I found it difficult to find the compression stroke by
placing
> my finger in the spark plug hole while turning the crank. That is, I
didn't
> feel compression as strong as the others. Actually, it was much weaker.
> Then, later, I didn't try to find TDC and just undid the valve bridge as
> recommended so the valves were closed.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:40205604.DDD63FF2@***.net...
> > Hi Bill,
> > Me thinks you worry too much. Your compression check a while back
> > told us everything was all right. As far as wet oiled, a couple of
> > misfires just before you pulled the plug will suck that.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an oily
> film
> > > around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark
> plug
> > > gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
> > >
> > > When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and
didn't
> see
> > > any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check
the
> > > plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
> > >
> > > Questions:
> > > Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where
the
> > > thread ends) sound normal or bad?
> > >
> > > Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this
> results?
> > >
> > > I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
> > >
> > > I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
>
>
What exactly is the sympton you are trying to correct? Was the #2 plug
fouled and no longer firing? Or are you just checking your work.
There are many inconsistancies in your information. You say compression was
up and even across the board. But your finger sensed lower compression on
#2 when cranking (not a very scientific test) to locate TDC. Yet you make
no mention of sensing a higher rate of air flow when holding up the valves
with compressed air when doing that cyl (If you had so low a compression
that you could sense the diference holding your finger over the sparkplug
hole you surely would have heard a lot more air escaping when applying
compressed air to that cyl and it likely would not have held the valve up).
So, let's start at the beginning with what your initial problem was and
work through the entire process, probably something we should have done in
the beginning.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bvpm71$v06l4$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I don't know Bill, when I did the valve seal replacement #2 was the first
> one I did and I found it difficult to find the compression stroke by
placing
> my finger in the spark plug hole while turning the crank. That is, I
didn't
> feel compression as strong as the others. Actually, it was much weaker.
> Then, later, I didn't try to find TDC and just undid the valve bridge as
> recommended so the valves were closed.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:40205604.DDD63FF2@***.net...
> > Hi Bill,
> > Me thinks you worry too much. Your compression check a while back
> > told us everything was all right. As far as wet oiled, a couple of
> > misfires just before you pulled the plug will suck that.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an oily
> film
> > > around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark
> plug
> > > gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
> > >
> > > When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and
didn't
> see
> > > any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check
the
> > > plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
> > >
> > > Questions:
> > > Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where
the
> > > thread ends) sound normal or bad?
> > >
> > > Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this
> results?
> > >
> > > I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
> > >
> > > I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
>
>
02-04-2004, 10:06 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Bad news on the Valve Seal Replacement - Need advice
Bill,
What exactly is the sympton you are trying to correct? Was the #2 plug
fouled and no longer firing? Or are you just checking your work.
There are many inconsistancies in your information. You say compression was
up and even across the board. But your finger sensed lower compression on
#2 when cranking (not a very scientific test) to locate TDC. Yet you make
no mention of sensing a higher rate of air flow when holding up the valves
with compressed air when doing that cyl (If you had so low a compression
that you could sense the diference holding your finger over the sparkplug
hole you surely would have heard a lot more air escaping when applying
compressed air to that cyl and it likely would not have held the valve up).
So, let's start at the beginning with what your initial problem was and
work through the entire process, probably something we should have done in
the beginning.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bvpm71$v06l4$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I don't know Bill, when I did the valve seal replacement #2 was the first
> one I did and I found it difficult to find the compression stroke by
placing
> my finger in the spark plug hole while turning the crank. That is, I
didn't
> feel compression as strong as the others. Actually, it was much weaker.
> Then, later, I didn't try to find TDC and just undid the valve bridge as
> recommended so the valves were closed.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:40205604.DDD63FF2@***.net...
> > Hi Bill,
> > Me thinks you worry too much. Your compression check a while back
> > told us everything was all right. As far as wet oiled, a couple of
> > misfires just before you pulled the plug will suck that.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an oily
> film
> > > around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark
> plug
> > > gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
> > >
> > > When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and
didn't
> see
> > > any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check
the
> > > plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
> > >
> > > Questions:
> > > Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where
the
> > > thread ends) sound normal or bad?
> > >
> > > Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this
> results?
> > >
> > > I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
> > >
> > > I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
>
>
What exactly is the sympton you are trying to correct? Was the #2 plug
fouled and no longer firing? Or are you just checking your work.
There are many inconsistancies in your information. You say compression was
up and even across the board. But your finger sensed lower compression on
#2 when cranking (not a very scientific test) to locate TDC. Yet you make
no mention of sensing a higher rate of air flow when holding up the valves
with compressed air when doing that cyl (If you had so low a compression
that you could sense the diference holding your finger over the sparkplug
hole you surely would have heard a lot more air escaping when applying
compressed air to that cyl and it likely would not have held the valve up).
So, let's start at the beginning with what your initial problem was and
work through the entire process, probably something we should have done in
the beginning.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bvpm71$v06l4$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I don't know Bill, when I did the valve seal replacement #2 was the first
> one I did and I found it difficult to find the compression stroke by
placing
> my finger in the spark plug hole while turning the crank. That is, I
didn't
> feel compression as strong as the others. Actually, it was much weaker.
> Then, later, I didn't try to find TDC and just undid the valve bridge as
> recommended so the valves were closed.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:40205604.DDD63FF2@***.net...
> > Hi Bill,
> > Me thinks you worry too much. Your compression check a while back
> > told us everything was all right. As far as wet oiled, a couple of
> > misfires just before you pulled the plug will suck that.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an oily
> film
> > > around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark
> plug
> > > gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
> > >
> > > When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and
didn't
> see
> > > any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check
the
> > > plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
> > >
> > > Questions:
> > > Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where
the
> > > thread ends) sound normal or bad?
> > >
> > > Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this
> results?
> > >
> > > I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
> > >
> > > I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
>
>
02-04-2004, 10:06 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Bad news on the Valve Seal Replacement - Need advice
Bill,
What exactly is the sympton you are trying to correct? Was the #2 plug
fouled and no longer firing? Or are you just checking your work.
There are many inconsistancies in your information. You say compression was
up and even across the board. But your finger sensed lower compression on
#2 when cranking (not a very scientific test) to locate TDC. Yet you make
no mention of sensing a higher rate of air flow when holding up the valves
with compressed air when doing that cyl (If you had so low a compression
that you could sense the diference holding your finger over the sparkplug
hole you surely would have heard a lot more air escaping when applying
compressed air to that cyl and it likely would not have held the valve up).
So, let's start at the beginning with what your initial problem was and
work through the entire process, probably something we should have done in
the beginning.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bvpm71$v06l4$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I don't know Bill, when I did the valve seal replacement #2 was the first
> one I did and I found it difficult to find the compression stroke by
placing
> my finger in the spark plug hole while turning the crank. That is, I
didn't
> feel compression as strong as the others. Actually, it was much weaker.
> Then, later, I didn't try to find TDC and just undid the valve bridge as
> recommended so the valves were closed.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:40205604.DDD63FF2@***.net...
> > Hi Bill,
> > Me thinks you worry too much. Your compression check a while back
> > told us everything was all right. As far as wet oiled, a couple of
> > misfires just before you pulled the plug will suck that.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an oily
> film
> > > around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark
> plug
> > > gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
> > >
> > > When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and
didn't
> see
> > > any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check
the
> > > plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
> > >
> > > Questions:
> > > Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where
the
> > > thread ends) sound normal or bad?
> > >
> > > Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this
> results?
> > >
> > > I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
> > >
> > > I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
>
>
What exactly is the sympton you are trying to correct? Was the #2 plug
fouled and no longer firing? Or are you just checking your work.
There are many inconsistancies in your information. You say compression was
up and even across the board. But your finger sensed lower compression on
#2 when cranking (not a very scientific test) to locate TDC. Yet you make
no mention of sensing a higher rate of air flow when holding up the valves
with compressed air when doing that cyl (If you had so low a compression
that you could sense the diference holding your finger over the sparkplug
hole you surely would have heard a lot more air escaping when applying
compressed air to that cyl and it likely would not have held the valve up).
So, let's start at the beginning with what your initial problem was and
work through the entire process, probably something we should have done in
the beginning.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bvpm71$v06l4$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I don't know Bill, when I did the valve seal replacement #2 was the first
> one I did and I found it difficult to find the compression stroke by
placing
> my finger in the spark plug hole while turning the crank. That is, I
didn't
> feel compression as strong as the others. Actually, it was much weaker.
> Then, later, I didn't try to find TDC and just undid the valve bridge as
> recommended so the valves were closed.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:40205604.DDD63FF2@***.net...
> > Hi Bill,
> > Me thinks you worry too much. Your compression check a while back
> > told us everything was all right. As far as wet oiled, a couple of
> > misfires just before you pulled the plug will suck that.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an oily
> film
> > > around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark
> plug
> > > gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
> > >
> > > When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and
didn't
> see
> > > any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check
the
> > > plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
> > >
> > > Questions:
> > > Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where
the
> > > thread ends) sound normal or bad?
> > >
> > > Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this
> results?
> > >
> > > I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
> > >
> > > I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
>
>
02-04-2004, 11:19 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Bad news on the Valve Seal Replacement - Need advice
Hi Steve,
The initial problem at the serious level seemed to crop up after I went on
my first 4 wheeling trip since I've bought this jeep and that problem is I
was blowing blue smoke out of my tail pipe. Several weeks before I went 4
wheeling I had the jeep in another shop to try and detect the source of a
noise and that guy told me I was blowing blue smoke but didn't give me an
idea where it was coming from. Also, I have been burning about a quart of
oil every 1000 miles or so.
The problem blowing blue smoke which occurred after idle for some minutes
and then pressing on the gas. I could not see blue smoke when driving at
any speeds but when I came to a stop light and idled for a couple minutes
then pressed on the gas I could see a puff of blue smoke. Also, most of my
plugs looked like they had a wet, oily film around the base of the plug and
the element looked black. These were relatively new plugs.
At one point I had to have the jeep towed because it stalled and I couldn't
get it up again. I had it towed to a shop who was already closed for the
night so I decided to change the plugs and see what happens. It started
right up after that so I skipped the shop and drove it home.
Later I had that same shop do a compression test on the engine. The shop
told me that he had readings of 150 psi across the board, no variation in
pressure.
The shop only did the dry test as far as I know.
So, with the compression test and the nature of the blue smoke being at idle
I went for the easiest, least expensive fix which was to change the valve
seals.
Now, #2 cylinder was the first one I did and I did question the sound of air
leaking from the cylinder when I applied air pressure. I looked for air
coming from several different places, tail pipe = none, radiator water =
none, I put the valve cover back on and could feel air coming from the PCV
valve hose - it was light but I didn't have the other vent hose which goes
to the air filter closed off. I changed cylinders and got the same noise so
I suspected this part was normal and continued on with my valve seal change.
After completion I didn't see any blue smoke at idle and still don't. I let
the engine idle for about 20 minutes and still no smoke. I then checked the
plugs and they all looked great, absolutely no oil or film. Then I drove it
for about 10 - 15 miles and the weather got rainy so I parked it. Then
yesterday I checked the plugs and found #2 wet. The others have that oily
film around the base of the plug (at the end of the thread on the bottom)
but the element is not wet. Only #2 look so bad. When I drive it it seems
ok but I want to get another set of backup plugs before I venture too far
from home.
So now I'm going to perform a compression test my self and see if I can get
a leak down tester and do that too.
Thanks for any additional suggestions,
Bill
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:IT7Ub.399718$X%5.157585@pd7tw2no...
> Bill,
> What exactly is the sympton you are trying to correct? Was the #2 plug
> fouled and no longer firing? Or are you just checking your work.
> There are many inconsistancies in your information. You say compression
was
> up and even across the board. But your finger sensed lower compression on
> #2 when cranking (not a very scientific test) to locate TDC. Yet you make
> no mention of sensing a higher rate of air flow when holding up the valves
> with compressed air when doing that cyl (If you had so low a compression
> that you could sense the diference holding your finger over the sparkplug
> hole you surely would have heard a lot more air escaping when applying
> compressed air to that cyl and it likely would not have held the valve
up).
> So, let's start at the beginning with what your initial problem was
and
> work through the entire process, probably something we should have done in
> the beginning.
> Steve
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bvpm71$v06l4$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I don't know Bill, when I did the valve seal replacement #2 was the
first
> > one I did and I found it difficult to find the compression stroke by
> placing
> > my finger in the spark plug hole while turning the crank. That is, I
> didn't
> > feel compression as strong as the others. Actually, it was much weaker.
> > Then, later, I didn't try to find TDC and just undid the valve bridge as
> > recommended so the valves were closed.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:40205604.DDD63FF2@***.net...
> > > Hi Bill,
> > > Me thinks you worry too much. Your compression check a while back
> > > told us everything was all right. As far as wet oiled, a couple of
> > > misfires just before you pulled the plug will suck that.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an
oily
> > film
> > > > around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark
> > plug
> > > > gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
> > > >
> > > > When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and
> didn't
> > see
> > > > any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check
> the
> > > > plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
> > > >
> > > > Questions:
> > > > Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where
> the
> > > > thread ends) sound normal or bad?
> > > >
> > > > Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this
> > results?
> > > >
> > > > I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
> > > >
> > > > I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> >
> >
>
>
The initial problem at the serious level seemed to crop up after I went on
my first 4 wheeling trip since I've bought this jeep and that problem is I
was blowing blue smoke out of my tail pipe. Several weeks before I went 4
wheeling I had the jeep in another shop to try and detect the source of a
noise and that guy told me I was blowing blue smoke but didn't give me an
idea where it was coming from. Also, I have been burning about a quart of
oil every 1000 miles or so.
The problem blowing blue smoke which occurred after idle for some minutes
and then pressing on the gas. I could not see blue smoke when driving at
any speeds but when I came to a stop light and idled for a couple minutes
then pressed on the gas I could see a puff of blue smoke. Also, most of my
plugs looked like they had a wet, oily film around the base of the plug and
the element looked black. These were relatively new plugs.
At one point I had to have the jeep towed because it stalled and I couldn't
get it up again. I had it towed to a shop who was already closed for the
night so I decided to change the plugs and see what happens. It started
right up after that so I skipped the shop and drove it home.
Later I had that same shop do a compression test on the engine. The shop
told me that he had readings of 150 psi across the board, no variation in
pressure.
The shop only did the dry test as far as I know.
So, with the compression test and the nature of the blue smoke being at idle
I went for the easiest, least expensive fix which was to change the valve
seals.
Now, #2 cylinder was the first one I did and I did question the sound of air
leaking from the cylinder when I applied air pressure. I looked for air
coming from several different places, tail pipe = none, radiator water =
none, I put the valve cover back on and could feel air coming from the PCV
valve hose - it was light but I didn't have the other vent hose which goes
to the air filter closed off. I changed cylinders and got the same noise so
I suspected this part was normal and continued on with my valve seal change.
After completion I didn't see any blue smoke at idle and still don't. I let
the engine idle for about 20 minutes and still no smoke. I then checked the
plugs and they all looked great, absolutely no oil or film. Then I drove it
for about 10 - 15 miles and the weather got rainy so I parked it. Then
yesterday I checked the plugs and found #2 wet. The others have that oily
film around the base of the plug (at the end of the thread on the bottom)
but the element is not wet. Only #2 look so bad. When I drive it it seems
ok but I want to get another set of backup plugs before I venture too far
from home.
So now I'm going to perform a compression test my self and see if I can get
a leak down tester and do that too.
Thanks for any additional suggestions,
Bill
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:IT7Ub.399718$X%5.157585@pd7tw2no...
> Bill,
> What exactly is the sympton you are trying to correct? Was the #2 plug
> fouled and no longer firing? Or are you just checking your work.
> There are many inconsistancies in your information. You say compression
was
> up and even across the board. But your finger sensed lower compression on
> #2 when cranking (not a very scientific test) to locate TDC. Yet you make
> no mention of sensing a higher rate of air flow when holding up the valves
> with compressed air when doing that cyl (If you had so low a compression
> that you could sense the diference holding your finger over the sparkplug
> hole you surely would have heard a lot more air escaping when applying
> compressed air to that cyl and it likely would not have held the valve
up).
> So, let's start at the beginning with what your initial problem was
and
> work through the entire process, probably something we should have done in
> the beginning.
> Steve
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bvpm71$v06l4$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I don't know Bill, when I did the valve seal replacement #2 was the
first
> > one I did and I found it difficult to find the compression stroke by
> placing
> > my finger in the spark plug hole while turning the crank. That is, I
> didn't
> > feel compression as strong as the others. Actually, it was much weaker.
> > Then, later, I didn't try to find TDC and just undid the valve bridge as
> > recommended so the valves were closed.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:40205604.DDD63FF2@***.net...
> > > Hi Bill,
> > > Me thinks you worry too much. Your compression check a while back
> > > told us everything was all right. As far as wet oiled, a couple of
> > > misfires just before you pulled the plug will suck that.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an
oily
> > film
> > > > around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark
> > plug
> > > > gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
> > > >
> > > > When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and
> didn't
> > see
> > > > any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check
> the
> > > > plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
> > > >
> > > > Questions:
> > > > Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where
> the
> > > > thread ends) sound normal or bad?
> > > >
> > > > Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this
> > results?
> > > >
> > > > I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
> > > >
> > > > I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> >
> >
>
>
02-04-2004, 11:19 AM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Bad news on the Valve Seal Replacement - Need advice
Hi Steve,
The initial problem at the serious level seemed to crop up after I went on
my first 4 wheeling trip since I've bought this jeep and that problem is I
was blowing blue smoke out of my tail pipe. Several weeks before I went 4
wheeling I had the jeep in another shop to try and detect the source of a
noise and that guy told me I was blowing blue smoke but didn't give me an
idea where it was coming from. Also, I have been burning about a quart of
oil every 1000 miles or so.
The problem blowing blue smoke which occurred after idle for some minutes
and then pressing on the gas. I could not see blue smoke when driving at
any speeds but when I came to a stop light and idled for a couple minutes
then pressed on the gas I could see a puff of blue smoke. Also, most of my
plugs looked like they had a wet, oily film around the base of the plug and
the element looked black. These were relatively new plugs.
At one point I had to have the jeep towed because it stalled and I couldn't
get it up again. I had it towed to a shop who was already closed for the
night so I decided to change the plugs and see what happens. It started
right up after that so I skipped the shop and drove it home.
Later I had that same shop do a compression test on the engine. The shop
told me that he had readings of 150 psi across the board, no variation in
pressure.
The shop only did the dry test as far as I know.
So, with the compression test and the nature of the blue smoke being at idle
I went for the easiest, least expensive fix which was to change the valve
seals.
Now, #2 cylinder was the first one I did and I did question the sound of air
leaking from the cylinder when I applied air pressure. I looked for air
coming from several different places, tail pipe = none, radiator water =
none, I put the valve cover back on and could feel air coming from the PCV
valve hose - it was light but I didn't have the other vent hose which goes
to the air filter closed off. I changed cylinders and got the same noise so
I suspected this part was normal and continued on with my valve seal change.
After completion I didn't see any blue smoke at idle and still don't. I let
the engine idle for about 20 minutes and still no smoke. I then checked the
plugs and they all looked great, absolutely no oil or film. Then I drove it
for about 10 - 15 miles and the weather got rainy so I parked it. Then
yesterday I checked the plugs and found #2 wet. The others have that oily
film around the base of the plug (at the end of the thread on the bottom)
but the element is not wet. Only #2 look so bad. When I drive it it seems
ok but I want to get another set of backup plugs before I venture too far
from home.
So now I'm going to perform a compression test my self and see if I can get
a leak down tester and do that too.
Thanks for any additional suggestions,
Bill
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:IT7Ub.399718$X%5.157585@pd7tw2no...
> Bill,
> What exactly is the sympton you are trying to correct? Was the #2 plug
> fouled and no longer firing? Or are you just checking your work.
> There are many inconsistancies in your information. You say compression
was
> up and even across the board. But your finger sensed lower compression on
> #2 when cranking (not a very scientific test) to locate TDC. Yet you make
> no mention of sensing a higher rate of air flow when holding up the valves
> with compressed air when doing that cyl (If you had so low a compression
> that you could sense the diference holding your finger over the sparkplug
> hole you surely would have heard a lot more air escaping when applying
> compressed air to that cyl and it likely would not have held the valve
up).
> So, let's start at the beginning with what your initial problem was
and
> work through the entire process, probably something we should have done in
> the beginning.
> Steve
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bvpm71$v06l4$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I don't know Bill, when I did the valve seal replacement #2 was the
first
> > one I did and I found it difficult to find the compression stroke by
> placing
> > my finger in the spark plug hole while turning the crank. That is, I
> didn't
> > feel compression as strong as the others. Actually, it was much weaker.
> > Then, later, I didn't try to find TDC and just undid the valve bridge as
> > recommended so the valves were closed.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:40205604.DDD63FF2@***.net...
> > > Hi Bill,
> > > Me thinks you worry too much. Your compression check a while back
> > > told us everything was all right. As far as wet oiled, a couple of
> > > misfires just before you pulled the plug will suck that.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an
oily
> > film
> > > > around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark
> > plug
> > > > gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
> > > >
> > > > When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and
> didn't
> > see
> > > > any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check
> the
> > > > plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
> > > >
> > > > Questions:
> > > > Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where
> the
> > > > thread ends) sound normal or bad?
> > > >
> > > > Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this
> > results?
> > > >
> > > > I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
> > > >
> > > > I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> >
> >
>
>
The initial problem at the serious level seemed to crop up after I went on
my first 4 wheeling trip since I've bought this jeep and that problem is I
was blowing blue smoke out of my tail pipe. Several weeks before I went 4
wheeling I had the jeep in another shop to try and detect the source of a
noise and that guy told me I was blowing blue smoke but didn't give me an
idea where it was coming from. Also, I have been burning about a quart of
oil every 1000 miles or so.
The problem blowing blue smoke which occurred after idle for some minutes
and then pressing on the gas. I could not see blue smoke when driving at
any speeds but when I came to a stop light and idled for a couple minutes
then pressed on the gas I could see a puff of blue smoke. Also, most of my
plugs looked like they had a wet, oily film around the base of the plug and
the element looked black. These were relatively new plugs.
At one point I had to have the jeep towed because it stalled and I couldn't
get it up again. I had it towed to a shop who was already closed for the
night so I decided to change the plugs and see what happens. It started
right up after that so I skipped the shop and drove it home.
Later I had that same shop do a compression test on the engine. The shop
told me that he had readings of 150 psi across the board, no variation in
pressure.
The shop only did the dry test as far as I know.
So, with the compression test and the nature of the blue smoke being at idle
I went for the easiest, least expensive fix which was to change the valve
seals.
Now, #2 cylinder was the first one I did and I did question the sound of air
leaking from the cylinder when I applied air pressure. I looked for air
coming from several different places, tail pipe = none, radiator water =
none, I put the valve cover back on and could feel air coming from the PCV
valve hose - it was light but I didn't have the other vent hose which goes
to the air filter closed off. I changed cylinders and got the same noise so
I suspected this part was normal and continued on with my valve seal change.
After completion I didn't see any blue smoke at idle and still don't. I let
the engine idle for about 20 minutes and still no smoke. I then checked the
plugs and they all looked great, absolutely no oil or film. Then I drove it
for about 10 - 15 miles and the weather got rainy so I parked it. Then
yesterday I checked the plugs and found #2 wet. The others have that oily
film around the base of the plug (at the end of the thread on the bottom)
but the element is not wet. Only #2 look so bad. When I drive it it seems
ok but I want to get another set of backup plugs before I venture too far
from home.
So now I'm going to perform a compression test my self and see if I can get
a leak down tester and do that too.
Thanks for any additional suggestions,
Bill
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:IT7Ub.399718$X%5.157585@pd7tw2no...
> Bill,
> What exactly is the sympton you are trying to correct? Was the #2 plug
> fouled and no longer firing? Or are you just checking your work.
> There are many inconsistancies in your information. You say compression
was
> up and even across the board. But your finger sensed lower compression on
> #2 when cranking (not a very scientific test) to locate TDC. Yet you make
> no mention of sensing a higher rate of air flow when holding up the valves
> with compressed air when doing that cyl (If you had so low a compression
> that you could sense the diference holding your finger over the sparkplug
> hole you surely would have heard a lot more air escaping when applying
> compressed air to that cyl and it likely would not have held the valve
up).
> So, let's start at the beginning with what your initial problem was
and
> work through the entire process, probably something we should have done in
> the beginning.
> Steve
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bvpm71$v06l4$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I don't know Bill, when I did the valve seal replacement #2 was the
first
> > one I did and I found it difficult to find the compression stroke by
> placing
> > my finger in the spark plug hole while turning the crank. That is, I
> didn't
> > feel compression as strong as the others. Actually, it was much weaker.
> > Then, later, I didn't try to find TDC and just undid the valve bridge as
> > recommended so the valves were closed.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:40205604.DDD63FF2@***.net...
> > > Hi Bill,
> > > Me thinks you worry too much. Your compression check a while back
> > > told us everything was all right. As far as wet oiled, a couple of
> > > misfires just before you pulled the plug will suck that.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an
oily
> > film
> > > > around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark
> > plug
> > > > gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
> > > >
> > > > When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and
> didn't
> > see
> > > > any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check
> the
> > > > plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
> > > >
> > > > Questions:
> > > > Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where
> the
> > > > thread ends) sound normal or bad?
> > > >
> > > > Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this
> > results?
> > > >
> > > > I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
> > > >
> > > > I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> >
> >
>
>
02-04-2004, 11:19 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Bad news on the Valve Seal Replacement - Need advice
Hi Steve,
The initial problem at the serious level seemed to crop up after I went on
my first 4 wheeling trip since I've bought this jeep and that problem is I
was blowing blue smoke out of my tail pipe. Several weeks before I went 4
wheeling I had the jeep in another shop to try and detect the source of a
noise and that guy told me I was blowing blue smoke but didn't give me an
idea where it was coming from. Also, I have been burning about a quart of
oil every 1000 miles or so.
The problem blowing blue smoke which occurred after idle for some minutes
and then pressing on the gas. I could not see blue smoke when driving at
any speeds but when I came to a stop light and idled for a couple minutes
then pressed on the gas I could see a puff of blue smoke. Also, most of my
plugs looked like they had a wet, oily film around the base of the plug and
the element looked black. These were relatively new plugs.
At one point I had to have the jeep towed because it stalled and I couldn't
get it up again. I had it towed to a shop who was already closed for the
night so I decided to change the plugs and see what happens. It started
right up after that so I skipped the shop and drove it home.
Later I had that same shop do a compression test on the engine. The shop
told me that he had readings of 150 psi across the board, no variation in
pressure.
The shop only did the dry test as far as I know.
So, with the compression test and the nature of the blue smoke being at idle
I went for the easiest, least expensive fix which was to change the valve
seals.
Now, #2 cylinder was the first one I did and I did question the sound of air
leaking from the cylinder when I applied air pressure. I looked for air
coming from several different places, tail pipe = none, radiator water =
none, I put the valve cover back on and could feel air coming from the PCV
valve hose - it was light but I didn't have the other vent hose which goes
to the air filter closed off. I changed cylinders and got the same noise so
I suspected this part was normal and continued on with my valve seal change.
After completion I didn't see any blue smoke at idle and still don't. I let
the engine idle for about 20 minutes and still no smoke. I then checked the
plugs and they all looked great, absolutely no oil or film. Then I drove it
for about 10 - 15 miles and the weather got rainy so I parked it. Then
yesterday I checked the plugs and found #2 wet. The others have that oily
film around the base of the plug (at the end of the thread on the bottom)
but the element is not wet. Only #2 look so bad. When I drive it it seems
ok but I want to get another set of backup plugs before I venture too far
from home.
So now I'm going to perform a compression test my self and see if I can get
a leak down tester and do that too.
Thanks for any additional suggestions,
Bill
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:IT7Ub.399718$X%5.157585@pd7tw2no...
> Bill,
> What exactly is the sympton you are trying to correct? Was the #2 plug
> fouled and no longer firing? Or are you just checking your work.
> There are many inconsistancies in your information. You say compression
was
> up and even across the board. But your finger sensed lower compression on
> #2 when cranking (not a very scientific test) to locate TDC. Yet you make
> no mention of sensing a higher rate of air flow when holding up the valves
> with compressed air when doing that cyl (If you had so low a compression
> that you could sense the diference holding your finger over the sparkplug
> hole you surely would have heard a lot more air escaping when applying
> compressed air to that cyl and it likely would not have held the valve
up).
> So, let's start at the beginning with what your initial problem was
and
> work through the entire process, probably something we should have done in
> the beginning.
> Steve
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bvpm71$v06l4$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I don't know Bill, when I did the valve seal replacement #2 was the
first
> > one I did and I found it difficult to find the compression stroke by
> placing
> > my finger in the spark plug hole while turning the crank. That is, I
> didn't
> > feel compression as strong as the others. Actually, it was much weaker.
> > Then, later, I didn't try to find TDC and just undid the valve bridge as
> > recommended so the valves were closed.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:40205604.DDD63FF2@***.net...
> > > Hi Bill,
> > > Me thinks you worry too much. Your compression check a while back
> > > told us everything was all right. As far as wet oiled, a couple of
> > > misfires just before you pulled the plug will suck that.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an
oily
> > film
> > > > around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark
> > plug
> > > > gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
> > > >
> > > > When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and
> didn't
> > see
> > > > any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check
> the
> > > > plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
> > > >
> > > > Questions:
> > > > Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where
> the
> > > > thread ends) sound normal or bad?
> > > >
> > > > Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this
> > results?
> > > >
> > > > I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
> > > >
> > > > I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> >
> >
>
>
The initial problem at the serious level seemed to crop up after I went on
my first 4 wheeling trip since I've bought this jeep and that problem is I
was blowing blue smoke out of my tail pipe. Several weeks before I went 4
wheeling I had the jeep in another shop to try and detect the source of a
noise and that guy told me I was blowing blue smoke but didn't give me an
idea where it was coming from. Also, I have been burning about a quart of
oil every 1000 miles or so.
The problem blowing blue smoke which occurred after idle for some minutes
and then pressing on the gas. I could not see blue smoke when driving at
any speeds but when I came to a stop light and idled for a couple minutes
then pressed on the gas I could see a puff of blue smoke. Also, most of my
plugs looked like they had a wet, oily film around the base of the plug and
the element looked black. These were relatively new plugs.
At one point I had to have the jeep towed because it stalled and I couldn't
get it up again. I had it towed to a shop who was already closed for the
night so I decided to change the plugs and see what happens. It started
right up after that so I skipped the shop and drove it home.
Later I had that same shop do a compression test on the engine. The shop
told me that he had readings of 150 psi across the board, no variation in
pressure.
The shop only did the dry test as far as I know.
So, with the compression test and the nature of the blue smoke being at idle
I went for the easiest, least expensive fix which was to change the valve
seals.
Now, #2 cylinder was the first one I did and I did question the sound of air
leaking from the cylinder when I applied air pressure. I looked for air
coming from several different places, tail pipe = none, radiator water =
none, I put the valve cover back on and could feel air coming from the PCV
valve hose - it was light but I didn't have the other vent hose which goes
to the air filter closed off. I changed cylinders and got the same noise so
I suspected this part was normal and continued on with my valve seal change.
After completion I didn't see any blue smoke at idle and still don't. I let
the engine idle for about 20 minutes and still no smoke. I then checked the
plugs and they all looked great, absolutely no oil or film. Then I drove it
for about 10 - 15 miles and the weather got rainy so I parked it. Then
yesterday I checked the plugs and found #2 wet. The others have that oily
film around the base of the plug (at the end of the thread on the bottom)
but the element is not wet. Only #2 look so bad. When I drive it it seems
ok but I want to get another set of backup plugs before I venture too far
from home.
So now I'm going to perform a compression test my self and see if I can get
a leak down tester and do that too.
Thanks for any additional suggestions,
Bill
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:IT7Ub.399718$X%5.157585@pd7tw2no...
> Bill,
> What exactly is the sympton you are trying to correct? Was the #2 plug
> fouled and no longer firing? Or are you just checking your work.
> There are many inconsistancies in your information. You say compression
was
> up and even across the board. But your finger sensed lower compression on
> #2 when cranking (not a very scientific test) to locate TDC. Yet you make
> no mention of sensing a higher rate of air flow when holding up the valves
> with compressed air when doing that cyl (If you had so low a compression
> that you could sense the diference holding your finger over the sparkplug
> hole you surely would have heard a lot more air escaping when applying
> compressed air to that cyl and it likely would not have held the valve
up).
> So, let's start at the beginning with what your initial problem was
and
> work through the entire process, probably something we should have done in
> the beginning.
> Steve
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bvpm71$v06l4$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I don't know Bill, when I did the valve seal replacement #2 was the
first
> > one I did and I found it difficult to find the compression stroke by
> placing
> > my finger in the spark plug hole while turning the crank. That is, I
> didn't
> > feel compression as strong as the others. Actually, it was much weaker.
> > Then, later, I didn't try to find TDC and just undid the valve bridge as
> > recommended so the valves were closed.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:40205604.DDD63FF2@***.net...
> > > Hi Bill,
> > > Me thinks you worry too much. Your compression check a while back
> > > told us everything was all right. As far as wet oiled, a couple of
> > > misfires just before you pulled the plug will suck that.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an
oily
> > film
> > > > around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark
> > plug
> > > > gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
> > > >
> > > > When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and
> didn't
> > see
> > > > any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check
> the
> > > > plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
> > > >
> > > > Questions:
> > > > Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where
> the
> > > > thread ends) sound normal or bad?
> > > >
> > > > Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this
> > results?
> > > >
> > > > I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
> > > >
> > > > I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> >
> >
>
>
02-04-2004, 11:21 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Bad news on the Valve Seal Replacement - Need advice
Krapp, where do you shop for parts? I haven't be able to find one for less
than 50.00 around here, yet.
Anyway, That is my next thing to do.
Thanks,
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40210A25.9BB9EEE2@sympatico.ca...
> Our local auto parts stores sell compression testers for less than ten
> bucks.
>
> Do a compression test dry and if they are all the same, drop the tester
> fast and back away slowly, very slowly......
> ;-)
>
> If one or more are low, toss a tablespoon of oil into the spark plug
> hole and test that low one again. If the compression comes way up, you
> have bad rings, if the compression stays low and only moves a couple lb,
> you have a bad valve or cooked head gasket.
>
> If two side by side are low, it's the headgasket between them usually.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an oily
film
> > around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark
plug
> > gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
> >
> > When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and didn't
see
> > any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check the
> > plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
> >
> > Questions:
> > Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where the
> > thread ends) sound normal or bad?
> >
> > Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this
results?
> >
> > I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
> >
> > I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
> >
> > Thanks,
than 50.00 around here, yet.
Anyway, That is my next thing to do.
Thanks,
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40210A25.9BB9EEE2@sympatico.ca...
> Our local auto parts stores sell compression testers for less than ten
> bucks.
>
> Do a compression test dry and if they are all the same, drop the tester
> fast and back away slowly, very slowly......
> ;-)
>
> If one or more are low, toss a tablespoon of oil into the spark plug
> hole and test that low one again. If the compression comes way up, you
> have bad rings, if the compression stays low and only moves a couple lb,
> you have a bad valve or cooked head gasket.
>
> If two side by side are low, it's the headgasket between them usually.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I Checked my plugs and #2 is wet with oil. All the others have an oily
film
> > around the base of the plug by the element but the area of the spark
plug
> > gap looks fine. The engine sounds ok when it's running.
> >
> > When I first changed the seals I let it idle for a long time and didn't
see
> > any oil. Then I took it for a drive and didn't get a chance to check the
> > plugs until today because of rain. That's when I got this results.
> >
> > Questions:
> > Does the oily film around the base of the plug (at the bottom where the
> > thread ends) sound normal or bad?
> >
> > Could I have partially blown the head gasket around #2 to get this
results?
> >
> > I'm not seeing any water in the oil or vise versa.
> >
> > I need advice on what direction to take now. Leak Down test?
> >
> > Thanks,