Automatic Choke Adjustment
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Automatic Choke Adjustment
Thanks, I will try to measure later today.
--
Best Regards
Geir R.Pettersson
grp.arctic@heating.no
http://www.arctic-heating.com
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
news:40F540F6.90ED3695@sympatico.ca...
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, 13 Jul 2004 14:06:09 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > We had that issue with out 88 Cherokee 4.0.
> > >
> > > It also would stall at the first or second stop in the morning.
> > >
> > > That was caused by a dirty plug on the TPS or throttle position sensor
> > > on the throttle body.
> > >
> > > These plugs are only low powered computer plugs and the slightest dirt
> > > makes them shaky.
> > >
> > > I used a proper electronic contact cleaner the first time on it and it
> > > lasted a couple years. The second time it went and stayed at high
revs
> > > way off road so I used WD40 on it. That has lasted almost a year to
and
> > > my wife just mentioned it needs another clean soon.
> >
> > I don't know if the TPS is the real culprit on the 88 (Renix) system
> > or not. No matter what I do mine will still stall after a cold start
> > if I take off down hill and use the engine to hold it going down with
> > my foot off the gas. If I tap the gas just before I stop, all is
> > well; otherwise it will stagger and frequently die when I put the
> > clutch in. I'm about convinced that it's a characteristic of the
> > computer where it's over-correcting for the engine braking and not
> > responding fast enough when it tries to get to an unloaded idle state.
> > If yours is like mine, when it staggers and doesn't die it surges
> > pretty good before settling down. Blasted nuisance, whatever it is.
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
>
> No issues like that on ours.
>
> When I clean the contacts, it purrs like new again for a year or more.
>
> You 'can' use a volt meter and check the TPS out. I think you can also
> ohm it out, but the book test is for volts.
>
> You need the key on and engine off, AC off and you back probe the TPS
> plug with the meter probes looking for volts. Use the center wire and
> either outside wire. One will be a mirror image of the other for
> readings. One side is for the auto tranny.
>
> At the idle setting on the throttle lever, the TPS should read greater
> than .02 volts or 200 ma. One setting says .026 volts for the pre 91
> adjustable ones.
>
> At full throttle, it should read less than 4.8 volts.
>
> The volt rise or drop should also be smooth, not jerky.
>
> Same if you have it unplugged and are using ohms. The rise or drop in
> ohms should be smooth.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
--
Best Regards
Geir R.Pettersson
grp.arctic@heating.no
http://www.arctic-heating.com
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
news:40F540F6.90ED3695@sympatico.ca...
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, 13 Jul 2004 14:06:09 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > We had that issue with out 88 Cherokee 4.0.
> > >
> > > It also would stall at the first or second stop in the morning.
> > >
> > > That was caused by a dirty plug on the TPS or throttle position sensor
> > > on the throttle body.
> > >
> > > These plugs are only low powered computer plugs and the slightest dirt
> > > makes them shaky.
> > >
> > > I used a proper electronic contact cleaner the first time on it and it
> > > lasted a couple years. The second time it went and stayed at high
revs
> > > way off road so I used WD40 on it. That has lasted almost a year to
and
> > > my wife just mentioned it needs another clean soon.
> >
> > I don't know if the TPS is the real culprit on the 88 (Renix) system
> > or not. No matter what I do mine will still stall after a cold start
> > if I take off down hill and use the engine to hold it going down with
> > my foot off the gas. If I tap the gas just before I stop, all is
> > well; otherwise it will stagger and frequently die when I put the
> > clutch in. I'm about convinced that it's a characteristic of the
> > computer where it's over-correcting for the engine braking and not
> > responding fast enough when it tries to get to an unloaded idle state.
> > If yours is like mine, when it staggers and doesn't die it surges
> > pretty good before settling down. Blasted nuisance, whatever it is.
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
>
> No issues like that on ours.
>
> When I clean the contacts, it purrs like new again for a year or more.
>
> You 'can' use a volt meter and check the TPS out. I think you can also
> ohm it out, but the book test is for volts.
>
> You need the key on and engine off, AC off and you back probe the TPS
> plug with the meter probes looking for volts. Use the center wire and
> either outside wire. One will be a mirror image of the other for
> readings. One side is for the auto tranny.
>
> At the idle setting on the throttle lever, the TPS should read greater
> than .02 volts or 200 ma. One setting says .026 volts for the pre 91
> adjustable ones.
>
> At full throttle, it should read less than 4.8 volts.
>
> The volt rise or drop should also be smooth, not jerky.
>
> Same if you have it unplugged and are using ohms. The rise or drop in
> ohms should be smooth.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Automatic Choke Adjustment
Thanks, I will try to measure later today.
--
Best Regards
Geir R.Pettersson
grp.arctic@heating.no
http://www.arctic-heating.com
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
news:40F540F6.90ED3695@sympatico.ca...
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, 13 Jul 2004 14:06:09 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > We had that issue with out 88 Cherokee 4.0.
> > >
> > > It also would stall at the first or second stop in the morning.
> > >
> > > That was caused by a dirty plug on the TPS or throttle position sensor
> > > on the throttle body.
> > >
> > > These plugs are only low powered computer plugs and the slightest dirt
> > > makes them shaky.
> > >
> > > I used a proper electronic contact cleaner the first time on it and it
> > > lasted a couple years. The second time it went and stayed at high
revs
> > > way off road so I used WD40 on it. That has lasted almost a year to
and
> > > my wife just mentioned it needs another clean soon.
> >
> > I don't know if the TPS is the real culprit on the 88 (Renix) system
> > or not. No matter what I do mine will still stall after a cold start
> > if I take off down hill and use the engine to hold it going down with
> > my foot off the gas. If I tap the gas just before I stop, all is
> > well; otherwise it will stagger and frequently die when I put the
> > clutch in. I'm about convinced that it's a characteristic of the
> > computer where it's over-correcting for the engine braking and not
> > responding fast enough when it tries to get to an unloaded idle state.
> > If yours is like mine, when it staggers and doesn't die it surges
> > pretty good before settling down. Blasted nuisance, whatever it is.
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
>
> No issues like that on ours.
>
> When I clean the contacts, it purrs like new again for a year or more.
>
> You 'can' use a volt meter and check the TPS out. I think you can also
> ohm it out, but the book test is for volts.
>
> You need the key on and engine off, AC off and you back probe the TPS
> plug with the meter probes looking for volts. Use the center wire and
> either outside wire. One will be a mirror image of the other for
> readings. One side is for the auto tranny.
>
> At the idle setting on the throttle lever, the TPS should read greater
> than .02 volts or 200 ma. One setting says .026 volts for the pre 91
> adjustable ones.
>
> At full throttle, it should read less than 4.8 volts.
>
> The volt rise or drop should also be smooth, not jerky.
>
> Same if you have it unplugged and are using ohms. The rise or drop in
> ohms should be smooth.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
--
Best Regards
Geir R.Pettersson
grp.arctic@heating.no
http://www.arctic-heating.com
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
news:40F540F6.90ED3695@sympatico.ca...
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, 13 Jul 2004 14:06:09 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > We had that issue with out 88 Cherokee 4.0.
> > >
> > > It also would stall at the first or second stop in the morning.
> > >
> > > That was caused by a dirty plug on the TPS or throttle position sensor
> > > on the throttle body.
> > >
> > > These plugs are only low powered computer plugs and the slightest dirt
> > > makes them shaky.
> > >
> > > I used a proper electronic contact cleaner the first time on it and it
> > > lasted a couple years. The second time it went and stayed at high
revs
> > > way off road so I used WD40 on it. That has lasted almost a year to
and
> > > my wife just mentioned it needs another clean soon.
> >
> > I don't know if the TPS is the real culprit on the 88 (Renix) system
> > or not. No matter what I do mine will still stall after a cold start
> > if I take off down hill and use the engine to hold it going down with
> > my foot off the gas. If I tap the gas just before I stop, all is
> > well; otherwise it will stagger and frequently die when I put the
> > clutch in. I'm about convinced that it's a characteristic of the
> > computer where it's over-correcting for the engine braking and not
> > responding fast enough when it tries to get to an unloaded idle state.
> > If yours is like mine, when it staggers and doesn't die it surges
> > pretty good before settling down. Blasted nuisance, whatever it is.
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
>
> No issues like that on ours.
>
> When I clean the contacts, it purrs like new again for a year or more.
>
> You 'can' use a volt meter and check the TPS out. I think you can also
> ohm it out, but the book test is for volts.
>
> You need the key on and engine off, AC off and you back probe the TPS
> plug with the meter probes looking for volts. Use the center wire and
> either outside wire. One will be a mirror image of the other for
> readings. One side is for the auto tranny.
>
> At the idle setting on the throttle lever, the TPS should read greater
> than .02 volts or 200 ma. One setting says .026 volts for the pre 91
> adjustable ones.
>
> At full throttle, it should read less than 4.8 volts.
>
> The volt rise or drop should also be smooth, not jerky.
>
> Same if you have it unplugged and are using ohms. The rise or drop in
> ohms should be smooth.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Automatic Choke Adjustment
Thanks, I will try to measure later today.
--
Best Regards
Geir R.Pettersson
grp.arctic@heating.no
http://www.arctic-heating.com
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
news:40F540F6.90ED3695@sympatico.ca...
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, 13 Jul 2004 14:06:09 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > We had that issue with out 88 Cherokee 4.0.
> > >
> > > It also would stall at the first or second stop in the morning.
> > >
> > > That was caused by a dirty plug on the TPS or throttle position sensor
> > > on the throttle body.
> > >
> > > These plugs are only low powered computer plugs and the slightest dirt
> > > makes them shaky.
> > >
> > > I used a proper electronic contact cleaner the first time on it and it
> > > lasted a couple years. The second time it went and stayed at high
revs
> > > way off road so I used WD40 on it. That has lasted almost a year to
and
> > > my wife just mentioned it needs another clean soon.
> >
> > I don't know if the TPS is the real culprit on the 88 (Renix) system
> > or not. No matter what I do mine will still stall after a cold start
> > if I take off down hill and use the engine to hold it going down with
> > my foot off the gas. If I tap the gas just before I stop, all is
> > well; otherwise it will stagger and frequently die when I put the
> > clutch in. I'm about convinced that it's a characteristic of the
> > computer where it's over-correcting for the engine braking and not
> > responding fast enough when it tries to get to an unloaded idle state.
> > If yours is like mine, when it staggers and doesn't die it surges
> > pretty good before settling down. Blasted nuisance, whatever it is.
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
>
> No issues like that on ours.
>
> When I clean the contacts, it purrs like new again for a year or more.
>
> You 'can' use a volt meter and check the TPS out. I think you can also
> ohm it out, but the book test is for volts.
>
> You need the key on and engine off, AC off and you back probe the TPS
> plug with the meter probes looking for volts. Use the center wire and
> either outside wire. One will be a mirror image of the other for
> readings. One side is for the auto tranny.
>
> At the idle setting on the throttle lever, the TPS should read greater
> than .02 volts or 200 ma. One setting says .026 volts for the pre 91
> adjustable ones.
>
> At full throttle, it should read less than 4.8 volts.
>
> The volt rise or drop should also be smooth, not jerky.
>
> Same if you have it unplugged and are using ohms. The rise or drop in
> ohms should be smooth.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
--
Best Regards
Geir R.Pettersson
grp.arctic@heating.no
http://www.arctic-heating.com
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
news:40F540F6.90ED3695@sympatico.ca...
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, 13 Jul 2004 14:06:09 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > We had that issue with out 88 Cherokee 4.0.
> > >
> > > It also would stall at the first or second stop in the morning.
> > >
> > > That was caused by a dirty plug on the TPS or throttle position sensor
> > > on the throttle body.
> > >
> > > These plugs are only low powered computer plugs and the slightest dirt
> > > makes them shaky.
> > >
> > > I used a proper electronic contact cleaner the first time on it and it
> > > lasted a couple years. The second time it went and stayed at high
revs
> > > way off road so I used WD40 on it. That has lasted almost a year to
and
> > > my wife just mentioned it needs another clean soon.
> >
> > I don't know if the TPS is the real culprit on the 88 (Renix) system
> > or not. No matter what I do mine will still stall after a cold start
> > if I take off down hill and use the engine to hold it going down with
> > my foot off the gas. If I tap the gas just before I stop, all is
> > well; otherwise it will stagger and frequently die when I put the
> > clutch in. I'm about convinced that it's a characteristic of the
> > computer where it's over-correcting for the engine braking and not
> > responding fast enough when it tries to get to an unloaded idle state.
> > If yours is like mine, when it staggers and doesn't die it surges
> > pretty good before settling down. Blasted nuisance, whatever it is.
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
>
> No issues like that on ours.
>
> When I clean the contacts, it purrs like new again for a year or more.
>
> You 'can' use a volt meter and check the TPS out. I think you can also
> ohm it out, but the book test is for volts.
>
> You need the key on and engine off, AC off and you back probe the TPS
> plug with the meter probes looking for volts. Use the center wire and
> either outside wire. One will be a mirror image of the other for
> readings. One side is for the auto tranny.
>
> At the idle setting on the throttle lever, the TPS should read greater
> than .02 volts or 200 ma. One setting says .026 volts for the pre 91
> adjustable ones.
>
> At full throttle, it should read less than 4.8 volts.
>
> The volt rise or drop should also be smooth, not jerky.
>
> Same if you have it unplugged and are using ohms. The rise or drop in
> ohms should be smooth.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Automatic Choke Adjustment
You 'can' remove the TPS and clean the insides of it out.
Same for the passages in the throttle body.
Mike
"Geir R.Pettersson" wrote:
>
> Thanks,
> I have used WD40 and also cleaned the throttle body,
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> I noticed that my throttle body is not exactly the same as described above
> link.
> It sure was dirty, and I did my best, it looked much nicer when I was
> finished, but right after the work, it started with high rpm again.
> So I guess it is another thing I have to get used to.
>
> --
> Best Regards
> Geir R.Pettersson
> grp.arctic@heating.no
> http://www.arctic-heating.com
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
> news:40F3EC51.75A6FC4B@sympatico.ca...
> > We had that issue with out 88 Cherokee 4.0.
> >
> > It also would stall at the first or second stop in the morning.
> >
> > That was caused by a dirty plug on the TPS or throttle position sensor
> > on the throttle body.
> >
> > These plugs are only low powered computer plugs and the slightest dirt
> > makes them shaky.
> >
> > I used a proper electronic contact cleaner the first time on it and it
> > lasted a couple years. The second time it went and stayed at high revs
> > way off road so I used WD40 on it. That has lasted almost a year to and
> > my wife just mentioned it needs another clean soon.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Fam_Pettersson wrote:
> > >
> > > Jeep Cherokee Laredo 88mod, 6syl.Automatic 4L
> > > Somethimes, even if the car is hot, it start with a very high RPM, and
> it
> > > stays there until I kick the gas pedal down.
> > > Could this have something to do with the choke ? and what should I check
> ?
> > > Geir R.Pettersson
Same for the passages in the throttle body.
Mike
"Geir R.Pettersson" wrote:
>
> Thanks,
> I have used WD40 and also cleaned the throttle body,
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> I noticed that my throttle body is not exactly the same as described above
> link.
> It sure was dirty, and I did my best, it looked much nicer when I was
> finished, but right after the work, it started with high rpm again.
> So I guess it is another thing I have to get used to.
>
> --
> Best Regards
> Geir R.Pettersson
> grp.arctic@heating.no
> http://www.arctic-heating.com
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
> news:40F3EC51.75A6FC4B@sympatico.ca...
> > We had that issue with out 88 Cherokee 4.0.
> >
> > It also would stall at the first or second stop in the morning.
> >
> > That was caused by a dirty plug on the TPS or throttle position sensor
> > on the throttle body.
> >
> > These plugs are only low powered computer plugs and the slightest dirt
> > makes them shaky.
> >
> > I used a proper electronic contact cleaner the first time on it and it
> > lasted a couple years. The second time it went and stayed at high revs
> > way off road so I used WD40 on it. That has lasted almost a year to and
> > my wife just mentioned it needs another clean soon.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Fam_Pettersson wrote:
> > >
> > > Jeep Cherokee Laredo 88mod, 6syl.Automatic 4L
> > > Somethimes, even if the car is hot, it start with a very high RPM, and
> it
> > > stays there until I kick the gas pedal down.
> > > Could this have something to do with the choke ? and what should I check
> ?
> > > Geir R.Pettersson
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Automatic Choke Adjustment
You 'can' remove the TPS and clean the insides of it out.
Same for the passages in the throttle body.
Mike
"Geir R.Pettersson" wrote:
>
> Thanks,
> I have used WD40 and also cleaned the throttle body,
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> I noticed that my throttle body is not exactly the same as described above
> link.
> It sure was dirty, and I did my best, it looked much nicer when I was
> finished, but right after the work, it started with high rpm again.
> So I guess it is another thing I have to get used to.
>
> --
> Best Regards
> Geir R.Pettersson
> grp.arctic@heating.no
> http://www.arctic-heating.com
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
> news:40F3EC51.75A6FC4B@sympatico.ca...
> > We had that issue with out 88 Cherokee 4.0.
> >
> > It also would stall at the first or second stop in the morning.
> >
> > That was caused by a dirty plug on the TPS or throttle position sensor
> > on the throttle body.
> >
> > These plugs are only low powered computer plugs and the slightest dirt
> > makes them shaky.
> >
> > I used a proper electronic contact cleaner the first time on it and it
> > lasted a couple years. The second time it went and stayed at high revs
> > way off road so I used WD40 on it. That has lasted almost a year to and
> > my wife just mentioned it needs another clean soon.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Fam_Pettersson wrote:
> > >
> > > Jeep Cherokee Laredo 88mod, 6syl.Automatic 4L
> > > Somethimes, even if the car is hot, it start with a very high RPM, and
> it
> > > stays there until I kick the gas pedal down.
> > > Could this have something to do with the choke ? and what should I check
> ?
> > > Geir R.Pettersson
Same for the passages in the throttle body.
Mike
"Geir R.Pettersson" wrote:
>
> Thanks,
> I have used WD40 and also cleaned the throttle body,
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> I noticed that my throttle body is not exactly the same as described above
> link.
> It sure was dirty, and I did my best, it looked much nicer when I was
> finished, but right after the work, it started with high rpm again.
> So I guess it is another thing I have to get used to.
>
> --
> Best Regards
> Geir R.Pettersson
> grp.arctic@heating.no
> http://www.arctic-heating.com
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
> news:40F3EC51.75A6FC4B@sympatico.ca...
> > We had that issue with out 88 Cherokee 4.0.
> >
> > It also would stall at the first or second stop in the morning.
> >
> > That was caused by a dirty plug on the TPS or throttle position sensor
> > on the throttle body.
> >
> > These plugs are only low powered computer plugs and the slightest dirt
> > makes them shaky.
> >
> > I used a proper electronic contact cleaner the first time on it and it
> > lasted a couple years. The second time it went and stayed at high revs
> > way off road so I used WD40 on it. That has lasted almost a year to and
> > my wife just mentioned it needs another clean soon.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Fam_Pettersson wrote:
> > >
> > > Jeep Cherokee Laredo 88mod, 6syl.Automatic 4L
> > > Somethimes, even if the car is hot, it start with a very high RPM, and
> it
> > > stays there until I kick the gas pedal down.
> > > Could this have something to do with the choke ? and what should I check
> ?
> > > Geir R.Pettersson
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Automatic Choke Adjustment
You 'can' remove the TPS and clean the insides of it out.
Same for the passages in the throttle body.
Mike
"Geir R.Pettersson" wrote:
>
> Thanks,
> I have used WD40 and also cleaned the throttle body,
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> I noticed that my throttle body is not exactly the same as described above
> link.
> It sure was dirty, and I did my best, it looked much nicer when I was
> finished, but right after the work, it started with high rpm again.
> So I guess it is another thing I have to get used to.
>
> --
> Best Regards
> Geir R.Pettersson
> grp.arctic@heating.no
> http://www.arctic-heating.com
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
> news:40F3EC51.75A6FC4B@sympatico.ca...
> > We had that issue with out 88 Cherokee 4.0.
> >
> > It also would stall at the first or second stop in the morning.
> >
> > That was caused by a dirty plug on the TPS or throttle position sensor
> > on the throttle body.
> >
> > These plugs are only low powered computer plugs and the slightest dirt
> > makes them shaky.
> >
> > I used a proper electronic contact cleaner the first time on it and it
> > lasted a couple years. The second time it went and stayed at high revs
> > way off road so I used WD40 on it. That has lasted almost a year to and
> > my wife just mentioned it needs another clean soon.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Fam_Pettersson wrote:
> > >
> > > Jeep Cherokee Laredo 88mod, 6syl.Automatic 4L
> > > Somethimes, even if the car is hot, it start with a very high RPM, and
> it
> > > stays there until I kick the gas pedal down.
> > > Could this have something to do with the choke ? and what should I check
> ?
> > > Geir R.Pettersson
Same for the passages in the throttle body.
Mike
"Geir R.Pettersson" wrote:
>
> Thanks,
> I have used WD40 and also cleaned the throttle body,
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> I noticed that my throttle body is not exactly the same as described above
> link.
> It sure was dirty, and I did my best, it looked much nicer when I was
> finished, but right after the work, it started with high rpm again.
> So I guess it is another thing I have to get used to.
>
> --
> Best Regards
> Geir R.Pettersson
> grp.arctic@heating.no
> http://www.arctic-heating.com
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
> news:40F3EC51.75A6FC4B@sympatico.ca...
> > We had that issue with out 88 Cherokee 4.0.
> >
> > It also would stall at the first or second stop in the morning.
> >
> > That was caused by a dirty plug on the TPS or throttle position sensor
> > on the throttle body.
> >
> > These plugs are only low powered computer plugs and the slightest dirt
> > makes them shaky.
> >
> > I used a proper electronic contact cleaner the first time on it and it
> > lasted a couple years. The second time it went and stayed at high revs
> > way off road so I used WD40 on it. That has lasted almost a year to and
> > my wife just mentioned it needs another clean soon.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Fam_Pettersson wrote:
> > >
> > > Jeep Cherokee Laredo 88mod, 6syl.Automatic 4L
> > > Somethimes, even if the car is hot, it start with a very high RPM, and
> it
> > > stays there until I kick the gas pedal down.
> > > Could this have something to do with the choke ? and what should I check
> ?
> > > Geir R.Pettersson
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Automatic Choke Adjustment
You 'can' remove the TPS and clean the insides of it out.
Same for the passages in the throttle body.
Mike
"Geir R.Pettersson" wrote:
>
> Thanks,
> I have used WD40 and also cleaned the throttle body,
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> I noticed that my throttle body is not exactly the same as described above
> link.
> It sure was dirty, and I did my best, it looked much nicer when I was
> finished, but right after the work, it started with high rpm again.
> So I guess it is another thing I have to get used to.
>
> --
> Best Regards
> Geir R.Pettersson
> grp.arctic@heating.no
> http://www.arctic-heating.com
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
> news:40F3EC51.75A6FC4B@sympatico.ca...
> > We had that issue with out 88 Cherokee 4.0.
> >
> > It also would stall at the first or second stop in the morning.
> >
> > That was caused by a dirty plug on the TPS or throttle position sensor
> > on the throttle body.
> >
> > These plugs are only low powered computer plugs and the slightest dirt
> > makes them shaky.
> >
> > I used a proper electronic contact cleaner the first time on it and it
> > lasted a couple years. The second time it went and stayed at high revs
> > way off road so I used WD40 on it. That has lasted almost a year to and
> > my wife just mentioned it needs another clean soon.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Fam_Pettersson wrote:
> > >
> > > Jeep Cherokee Laredo 88mod, 6syl.Automatic 4L
> > > Somethimes, even if the car is hot, it start with a very high RPM, and
> it
> > > stays there until I kick the gas pedal down.
> > > Could this have something to do with the choke ? and what should I check
> ?
> > > Geir R.Pettersson
Same for the passages in the throttle body.
Mike
"Geir R.Pettersson" wrote:
>
> Thanks,
> I have used WD40 and also cleaned the throttle body,
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> I noticed that my throttle body is not exactly the same as described above
> link.
> It sure was dirty, and I did my best, it looked much nicer when I was
> finished, but right after the work, it started with high rpm again.
> So I guess it is another thing I have to get used to.
>
> --
> Best Regards
> Geir R.Pettersson
> grp.arctic@heating.no
> http://www.arctic-heating.com
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
> news:40F3EC51.75A6FC4B@sympatico.ca...
> > We had that issue with out 88 Cherokee 4.0.
> >
> > It also would stall at the first or second stop in the morning.
> >
> > That was caused by a dirty plug on the TPS or throttle position sensor
> > on the throttle body.
> >
> > These plugs are only low powered computer plugs and the slightest dirt
> > makes them shaky.
> >
> > I used a proper electronic contact cleaner the first time on it and it
> > lasted a couple years. The second time it went and stayed at high revs
> > way off road so I used WD40 on it. That has lasted almost a year to and
> > my wife just mentioned it needs another clean soon.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Fam_Pettersson wrote:
> > >
> > > Jeep Cherokee Laredo 88mod, 6syl.Automatic 4L
> > > Somethimes, even if the car is hot, it start with a very high RPM, and
> it
> > > stays there until I kick the gas pedal down.
> > > Could this have something to do with the choke ? and what should I check
> ?
> > > Geir R.Pettersson
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Automatic Choke Adjustment
On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 07:10:48 UTC "Geir R.Pettersson"
<gropette@online.no> wrote:
> Thanks,
> I have used WD40 and also cleaned the throttle body,
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> I noticed that my throttle body is not exactly the same as described above
> link.
> It sure was dirty, and I did my best, it looked much nicer when I was
> finished, but right after the work, it started with high rpm again.
> So I guess it is another thing I have to get used to.
Long, involved story, but when I got my MJ the throttle body looked
like someone had baked the crud on. Every passage and opening was
plugged. After cleaning the TPS and it's connector, I pulled the IAC
motor and cleaned the motor shaft and inside the port. Both those
helped. It took a wire to clean out the MAP port which made a big
difference. I finally got PO'd and pulled the throttle body off,
stripped it, and ran it thru a solvent bath in an ultrasonic cleaner -
it was that dirty. Like Mike, I have to pull and clean the TPS
connector every so often anyway.
--
Will Honea
<gropette@online.no> wrote:
> Thanks,
> I have used WD40 and also cleaned the throttle body,
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> I noticed that my throttle body is not exactly the same as described above
> link.
> It sure was dirty, and I did my best, it looked much nicer when I was
> finished, but right after the work, it started with high rpm again.
> So I guess it is another thing I have to get used to.
Long, involved story, but when I got my MJ the throttle body looked
like someone had baked the crud on. Every passage and opening was
plugged. After cleaning the TPS and it's connector, I pulled the IAC
motor and cleaned the motor shaft and inside the port. Both those
helped. It took a wire to clean out the MAP port which made a big
difference. I finally got PO'd and pulled the throttle body off,
stripped it, and ran it thru a solvent bath in an ultrasonic cleaner -
it was that dirty. Like Mike, I have to pull and clean the TPS
connector every so often anyway.
--
Will Honea
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Automatic Choke Adjustment
On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 07:10:48 UTC "Geir R.Pettersson"
<gropette@online.no> wrote:
> Thanks,
> I have used WD40 and also cleaned the throttle body,
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> I noticed that my throttle body is not exactly the same as described above
> link.
> It sure was dirty, and I did my best, it looked much nicer when I was
> finished, but right after the work, it started with high rpm again.
> So I guess it is another thing I have to get used to.
Long, involved story, but when I got my MJ the throttle body looked
like someone had baked the crud on. Every passage and opening was
plugged. After cleaning the TPS and it's connector, I pulled the IAC
motor and cleaned the motor shaft and inside the port. Both those
helped. It took a wire to clean out the MAP port which made a big
difference. I finally got PO'd and pulled the throttle body off,
stripped it, and ran it thru a solvent bath in an ultrasonic cleaner -
it was that dirty. Like Mike, I have to pull and clean the TPS
connector every so often anyway.
--
Will Honea
<gropette@online.no> wrote:
> Thanks,
> I have used WD40 and also cleaned the throttle body,
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> I noticed that my throttle body is not exactly the same as described above
> link.
> It sure was dirty, and I did my best, it looked much nicer when I was
> finished, but right after the work, it started with high rpm again.
> So I guess it is another thing I have to get used to.
Long, involved story, but when I got my MJ the throttle body looked
like someone had baked the crud on. Every passage and opening was
plugged. After cleaning the TPS and it's connector, I pulled the IAC
motor and cleaned the motor shaft and inside the port. Both those
helped. It took a wire to clean out the MAP port which made a big
difference. I finally got PO'd and pulled the throttle body off,
stripped it, and ran it thru a solvent bath in an ultrasonic cleaner -
it was that dirty. Like Mike, I have to pull and clean the TPS
connector every so often anyway.
--
Will Honea
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Automatic Choke Adjustment
On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 07:10:48 UTC "Geir R.Pettersson"
<gropette@online.no> wrote:
> Thanks,
> I have used WD40 and also cleaned the throttle body,
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> I noticed that my throttle body is not exactly the same as described above
> link.
> It sure was dirty, and I did my best, it looked much nicer when I was
> finished, but right after the work, it started with high rpm again.
> So I guess it is another thing I have to get used to.
Long, involved story, but when I got my MJ the throttle body looked
like someone had baked the crud on. Every passage and opening was
plugged. After cleaning the TPS and it's connector, I pulled the IAC
motor and cleaned the motor shaft and inside the port. Both those
helped. It took a wire to clean out the MAP port which made a big
difference. I finally got PO'd and pulled the throttle body off,
stripped it, and ran it thru a solvent bath in an ultrasonic cleaner -
it was that dirty. Like Mike, I have to pull and clean the TPS
connector every so often anyway.
--
Will Honea
<gropette@online.no> wrote:
> Thanks,
> I have used WD40 and also cleaned the throttle body,
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> I noticed that my throttle body is not exactly the same as described above
> link.
> It sure was dirty, and I did my best, it looked much nicer when I was
> finished, but right after the work, it started with high rpm again.
> So I guess it is another thing I have to get used to.
Long, involved story, but when I got my MJ the throttle body looked
like someone had baked the crud on. Every passage and opening was
plugged. After cleaning the TPS and it's connector, I pulled the IAC
motor and cleaned the motor shaft and inside the port. Both those
helped. It took a wire to clean out the MAP port which made a big
difference. I finally got PO'd and pulled the throttle body off,
stripped it, and ran it thru a solvent bath in an ultrasonic cleaner -
it was that dirty. Like Mike, I have to pull and clean the TPS
connector every so often anyway.
--
Will Honea