auto body class
Guest
Posts: n/a
auto body class
I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under control
and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I was
expecting half class time, and half shop time, and my goal was to get my
badly rusted doors cleaned up, and primed so they would be ready to paint.
Then the rest of the jeep can be done over the winter in my own garage once
I learn the basics.
Well after my first night of class I relaize that this is a 100% hands on
class with 5 students ( 2 of whom are repeats and are just there for the
tool time ), so there are 3 of us for one teacher. The teacher thinks that
I can get the doors fixed up, the corner of the tub cleaned up, the holes in
the floors fixed, and the other miscelaneous rust spots taken care of
durring the course. Plus I will do my own work outside of class so I can see
all of the time consuming part done at home, and he class time can be used
for his consulting, and help.
Keep in mind that my goal is to have a trail rig that will be driven
off-road, used, and eventually scratched and scraped, so I don't need to
spend lots of time and money making it look show quality, just to stop the
rust, and make it look good again. I run 32" tires now with a minor lift,
but later will have a 4" lift with probably a 2" body lift, and will run 33"
tires with the option of 35" if I wanted.
With that said what cool ideas should I be thinking of as I start this
project. I am thinking that this is the perfect time for TJ flares, maybe
rocker guards. Anything else I should thing through before I get too far
into the paint?
and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I was
expecting half class time, and half shop time, and my goal was to get my
badly rusted doors cleaned up, and primed so they would be ready to paint.
Then the rest of the jeep can be done over the winter in my own garage once
I learn the basics.
Well after my first night of class I relaize that this is a 100% hands on
class with 5 students ( 2 of whom are repeats and are just there for the
tool time ), so there are 3 of us for one teacher. The teacher thinks that
I can get the doors fixed up, the corner of the tub cleaned up, the holes in
the floors fixed, and the other miscelaneous rust spots taken care of
durring the course. Plus I will do my own work outside of class so I can see
all of the time consuming part done at home, and he class time can be used
for his consulting, and help.
Keep in mind that my goal is to have a trail rig that will be driven
off-road, used, and eventually scratched and scraped, so I don't need to
spend lots of time and money making it look show quality, just to stop the
rust, and make it look good again. I run 32" tires now with a minor lift,
but later will have a 4" lift with probably a 2" body lift, and will run 33"
tires with the option of 35" if I wanted.
With that said what cool ideas should I be thinking of as I start this
project. I am thinking that this is the perfect time for TJ flares, maybe
rocker guards. Anything else I should thing through before I get too far
into the paint?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: auto body class
Congratulations on making the effort to do body work right! It's really
pretty easy to learn, and just because you aren't looking for 'show
quality' work on your trail Jeep doesn't mean that the skills between
'good enough' and 'show quality' are really much different. The biggest
difference is how patient you are with your own work and how much time
you take for the little details. Doing your lap seams correctly (for
example) and being able to make them look 'glass perfect' usually means
you've got a good strong joint that won't allow air/water in there to
rust again - making for a stronger truck.
If you don't know how to weld yet, spend a LOT of time practicing your
technique and get as good as you can on the school's dime. Spend
particular attention to gas welding - it's the oldest joining technique
used in auto body and getting good at it is a priceless skill. Get
familiar with MIG welding as well, both flux-core and 'true' MIG with
shielding gas and solid wire. Both are used extensively by the pros for
good reason. Arc welding is fine for heavy fabrication and field fixes
if it's all you have available, but in body work, it's next to useless.
I'm not just touting my favorite type because I only have one. I
actually have a Lincoln 225 amp arc, a Century MIG w/ Argon/CO2 gas and
an oxy/acy gas outfit. Gas is best & MIG is a VERY close second best for
sheet metal - period. Forget TIG welding. It ROCKS for sheet metal, but
it's so expensive you almost never learn it without going to tech school
full time or learning it on the job.
You'll make up your own mind about flares & such as you learn the skills
you'll get in class. Only by being intimately familiar with your Jeep
can you make the truly 'right' decisions about what to do with it, and
you soon will be. You'll also be able to make better buying decisions in
the future on every vehicle you look at with your newfound skills. I'd
focus on the basics this time around and if you sign up again like some
of your classmates, you can fab up some dandy flares & stuff then. The
nice thing about learning body work right is that once you have that
skill, you'll realise how cheap & easy it really is to crank out so many
things you see for sale for 'BucksDeLuxe' it's just stupid. You'll find
yourself just looking for stuff to make if you like doing that kind of
thing.
I took auto body for 4 semesters at a tech school when I was still in
high school, and I wouldn't trade that knowledge for anything 25 years
later. I've never worked in an auto shop of any kind, but I've built
about a dozen cars & trucks from the ground up not counting the ******
Wagon I have in about a million pieces right now with big holes cut out
of it (rust & damage repair).
Cheers,
- Jeff G
67 Kaiser Jeepster Commando
50 ****** 4x4 Station Wagon
http://jeffgross.com/******
Fletcher wrote:
> I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under control
> and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I was<<snip>>
pretty easy to learn, and just because you aren't looking for 'show
quality' work on your trail Jeep doesn't mean that the skills between
'good enough' and 'show quality' are really much different. The biggest
difference is how patient you are with your own work and how much time
you take for the little details. Doing your lap seams correctly (for
example) and being able to make them look 'glass perfect' usually means
you've got a good strong joint that won't allow air/water in there to
rust again - making for a stronger truck.
If you don't know how to weld yet, spend a LOT of time practicing your
technique and get as good as you can on the school's dime. Spend
particular attention to gas welding - it's the oldest joining technique
used in auto body and getting good at it is a priceless skill. Get
familiar with MIG welding as well, both flux-core and 'true' MIG with
shielding gas and solid wire. Both are used extensively by the pros for
good reason. Arc welding is fine for heavy fabrication and field fixes
if it's all you have available, but in body work, it's next to useless.
I'm not just touting my favorite type because I only have one. I
actually have a Lincoln 225 amp arc, a Century MIG w/ Argon/CO2 gas and
an oxy/acy gas outfit. Gas is best & MIG is a VERY close second best for
sheet metal - period. Forget TIG welding. It ROCKS for sheet metal, but
it's so expensive you almost never learn it without going to tech school
full time or learning it on the job.
You'll make up your own mind about flares & such as you learn the skills
you'll get in class. Only by being intimately familiar with your Jeep
can you make the truly 'right' decisions about what to do with it, and
you soon will be. You'll also be able to make better buying decisions in
the future on every vehicle you look at with your newfound skills. I'd
focus on the basics this time around and if you sign up again like some
of your classmates, you can fab up some dandy flares & stuff then. The
nice thing about learning body work right is that once you have that
skill, you'll realise how cheap & easy it really is to crank out so many
things you see for sale for 'BucksDeLuxe' it's just stupid. You'll find
yourself just looking for stuff to make if you like doing that kind of
thing.
I took auto body for 4 semesters at a tech school when I was still in
high school, and I wouldn't trade that knowledge for anything 25 years
later. I've never worked in an auto shop of any kind, but I've built
about a dozen cars & trucks from the ground up not counting the ******
Wagon I have in about a million pieces right now with big holes cut out
of it (rust & damage repair).
Cheers,
- Jeff G
67 Kaiser Jeepster Commando
50 ****** 4x4 Station Wagon
http://jeffgross.com/******
Fletcher wrote:
> I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under control
> and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I was<<snip>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: auto body class
Congratulations on making the effort to do body work right! It's really
pretty easy to learn, and just because you aren't looking for 'show
quality' work on your trail Jeep doesn't mean that the skills between
'good enough' and 'show quality' are really much different. The biggest
difference is how patient you are with your own work and how much time
you take for the little details. Doing your lap seams correctly (for
example) and being able to make them look 'glass perfect' usually means
you've got a good strong joint that won't allow air/water in there to
rust again - making for a stronger truck.
If you don't know how to weld yet, spend a LOT of time practicing your
technique and get as good as you can on the school's dime. Spend
particular attention to gas welding - it's the oldest joining technique
used in auto body and getting good at it is a priceless skill. Get
familiar with MIG welding as well, both flux-core and 'true' MIG with
shielding gas and solid wire. Both are used extensively by the pros for
good reason. Arc welding is fine for heavy fabrication and field fixes
if it's all you have available, but in body work, it's next to useless.
I'm not just touting my favorite type because I only have one. I
actually have a Lincoln 225 amp arc, a Century MIG w/ Argon/CO2 gas and
an oxy/acy gas outfit. Gas is best & MIG is a VERY close second best for
sheet metal - period. Forget TIG welding. It ROCKS for sheet metal, but
it's so expensive you almost never learn it without going to tech school
full time or learning it on the job.
You'll make up your own mind about flares & such as you learn the skills
you'll get in class. Only by being intimately familiar with your Jeep
can you make the truly 'right' decisions about what to do with it, and
you soon will be. You'll also be able to make better buying decisions in
the future on every vehicle you look at with your newfound skills. I'd
focus on the basics this time around and if you sign up again like some
of your classmates, you can fab up some dandy flares & stuff then. The
nice thing about learning body work right is that once you have that
skill, you'll realise how cheap & easy it really is to crank out so many
things you see for sale for 'BucksDeLuxe' it's just stupid. You'll find
yourself just looking for stuff to make if you like doing that kind of
thing.
I took auto body for 4 semesters at a tech school when I was still in
high school, and I wouldn't trade that knowledge for anything 25 years
later. I've never worked in an auto shop of any kind, but I've built
about a dozen cars & trucks from the ground up not counting the ******
Wagon I have in about a million pieces right now with big holes cut out
of it (rust & damage repair).
Cheers,
- Jeff G
67 Kaiser Jeepster Commando
50 ****** 4x4 Station Wagon
http://jeffgross.com/******
Fletcher wrote:
> I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under control
> and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I was<<snip>>
pretty easy to learn, and just because you aren't looking for 'show
quality' work on your trail Jeep doesn't mean that the skills between
'good enough' and 'show quality' are really much different. The biggest
difference is how patient you are with your own work and how much time
you take for the little details. Doing your lap seams correctly (for
example) and being able to make them look 'glass perfect' usually means
you've got a good strong joint that won't allow air/water in there to
rust again - making for a stronger truck.
If you don't know how to weld yet, spend a LOT of time practicing your
technique and get as good as you can on the school's dime. Spend
particular attention to gas welding - it's the oldest joining technique
used in auto body and getting good at it is a priceless skill. Get
familiar with MIG welding as well, both flux-core and 'true' MIG with
shielding gas and solid wire. Both are used extensively by the pros for
good reason. Arc welding is fine for heavy fabrication and field fixes
if it's all you have available, but in body work, it's next to useless.
I'm not just touting my favorite type because I only have one. I
actually have a Lincoln 225 amp arc, a Century MIG w/ Argon/CO2 gas and
an oxy/acy gas outfit. Gas is best & MIG is a VERY close second best for
sheet metal - period. Forget TIG welding. It ROCKS for sheet metal, but
it's so expensive you almost never learn it without going to tech school
full time or learning it on the job.
You'll make up your own mind about flares & such as you learn the skills
you'll get in class. Only by being intimately familiar with your Jeep
can you make the truly 'right' decisions about what to do with it, and
you soon will be. You'll also be able to make better buying decisions in
the future on every vehicle you look at with your newfound skills. I'd
focus on the basics this time around and if you sign up again like some
of your classmates, you can fab up some dandy flares & stuff then. The
nice thing about learning body work right is that once you have that
skill, you'll realise how cheap & easy it really is to crank out so many
things you see for sale for 'BucksDeLuxe' it's just stupid. You'll find
yourself just looking for stuff to make if you like doing that kind of
thing.
I took auto body for 4 semesters at a tech school when I was still in
high school, and I wouldn't trade that knowledge for anything 25 years
later. I've never worked in an auto shop of any kind, but I've built
about a dozen cars & trucks from the ground up not counting the ******
Wagon I have in about a million pieces right now with big holes cut out
of it (rust & damage repair).
Cheers,
- Jeff G
67 Kaiser Jeepster Commando
50 ****** 4x4 Station Wagon
http://jeffgross.com/******
Fletcher wrote:
> I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under control
> and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I was<<snip>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: auto body class
Sounds like a great skill to have. It reminds me that I tried to
save my CJ-2A: http://www.----------.com/inthebegginng.htm By the time I
stopped I could have paid myself ten cents an hour and bought a tub from
the Philippines, at the time about eight hundred dollars.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Fletcher wrote:
>
> I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under control
> and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I was
> expecting half class time, and half shop time, and my goal was to get my
> badly rusted doors cleaned up, and primed so they would be ready to paint.
> Then the rest of the jeep can be done over the winter in my own garage once
> I learn the basics.
> Well after my first night of class I relaize that this is a 100% hands on
> class with 5 students ( 2 of whom are repeats and are just there for the
> tool time ), so there are 3 of us for one teacher. The teacher thinks that
> I can get the doors fixed up, the corner of the tub cleaned up, the holes in
> the floors fixed, and the other miscelaneous rust spots taken care of
> durring the course. Plus I will do my own work outside of class so I can see
> all of the time consuming part done at home, and he class time can be used
> for his consulting, and help.
> Keep in mind that my goal is to have a trail rig that will be driven
> off-road, used, and eventually scratched and scraped, so I don't need to
> spend lots of time and money making it look show quality, just to stop the
> rust, and make it look good again. I run 32" tires now with a minor lift,
> but later will have a 4" lift with probably a 2" body lift, and will run 33"
> tires with the option of 35" if I wanted.
> With that said what cool ideas should I be thinking of as I start this
> project. I am thinking that this is the perfect time for TJ flares, maybe
> rocker guards. Anything else I should thing through before I get too far
> into the paint?
save my CJ-2A: http://www.----------.com/inthebegginng.htm By the time I
stopped I could have paid myself ten cents an hour and bought a tub from
the Philippines, at the time about eight hundred dollars.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Fletcher wrote:
>
> I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under control
> and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I was
> expecting half class time, and half shop time, and my goal was to get my
> badly rusted doors cleaned up, and primed so they would be ready to paint.
> Then the rest of the jeep can be done over the winter in my own garage once
> I learn the basics.
> Well after my first night of class I relaize that this is a 100% hands on
> class with 5 students ( 2 of whom are repeats and are just there for the
> tool time ), so there are 3 of us for one teacher. The teacher thinks that
> I can get the doors fixed up, the corner of the tub cleaned up, the holes in
> the floors fixed, and the other miscelaneous rust spots taken care of
> durring the course. Plus I will do my own work outside of class so I can see
> all of the time consuming part done at home, and he class time can be used
> for his consulting, and help.
> Keep in mind that my goal is to have a trail rig that will be driven
> off-road, used, and eventually scratched and scraped, so I don't need to
> spend lots of time and money making it look show quality, just to stop the
> rust, and make it look good again. I run 32" tires now with a minor lift,
> but later will have a 4" lift with probably a 2" body lift, and will run 33"
> tires with the option of 35" if I wanted.
> With that said what cool ideas should I be thinking of as I start this
> project. I am thinking that this is the perfect time for TJ flares, maybe
> rocker guards. Anything else I should thing through before I get too far
> into the paint?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: auto body class
Sounds like a great skill to have. It reminds me that I tried to
save my CJ-2A: http://www.----------.com/inthebegginng.htm By the time I
stopped I could have paid myself ten cents an hour and bought a tub from
the Philippines, at the time about eight hundred dollars.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Fletcher wrote:
>
> I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under control
> and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I was
> expecting half class time, and half shop time, and my goal was to get my
> badly rusted doors cleaned up, and primed so they would be ready to paint.
> Then the rest of the jeep can be done over the winter in my own garage once
> I learn the basics.
> Well after my first night of class I relaize that this is a 100% hands on
> class with 5 students ( 2 of whom are repeats and are just there for the
> tool time ), so there are 3 of us for one teacher. The teacher thinks that
> I can get the doors fixed up, the corner of the tub cleaned up, the holes in
> the floors fixed, and the other miscelaneous rust spots taken care of
> durring the course. Plus I will do my own work outside of class so I can see
> all of the time consuming part done at home, and he class time can be used
> for his consulting, and help.
> Keep in mind that my goal is to have a trail rig that will be driven
> off-road, used, and eventually scratched and scraped, so I don't need to
> spend lots of time and money making it look show quality, just to stop the
> rust, and make it look good again. I run 32" tires now with a minor lift,
> but later will have a 4" lift with probably a 2" body lift, and will run 33"
> tires with the option of 35" if I wanted.
> With that said what cool ideas should I be thinking of as I start this
> project. I am thinking that this is the perfect time for TJ flares, maybe
> rocker guards. Anything else I should thing through before I get too far
> into the paint?
save my CJ-2A: http://www.----------.com/inthebegginng.htm By the time I
stopped I could have paid myself ten cents an hour and bought a tub from
the Philippines, at the time about eight hundred dollars.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Fletcher wrote:
>
> I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under control
> and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I was
> expecting half class time, and half shop time, and my goal was to get my
> badly rusted doors cleaned up, and primed so they would be ready to paint.
> Then the rest of the jeep can be done over the winter in my own garage once
> I learn the basics.
> Well after my first night of class I relaize that this is a 100% hands on
> class with 5 students ( 2 of whom are repeats and are just there for the
> tool time ), so there are 3 of us for one teacher. The teacher thinks that
> I can get the doors fixed up, the corner of the tub cleaned up, the holes in
> the floors fixed, and the other miscelaneous rust spots taken care of
> durring the course. Plus I will do my own work outside of class so I can see
> all of the time consuming part done at home, and he class time can be used
> for his consulting, and help.
> Keep in mind that my goal is to have a trail rig that will be driven
> off-road, used, and eventually scratched and scraped, so I don't need to
> spend lots of time and money making it look show quality, just to stop the
> rust, and make it look good again. I run 32" tires now with a minor lift,
> but later will have a 4" lift with probably a 2" body lift, and will run 33"
> tires with the option of 35" if I wanted.
> With that said what cool ideas should I be thinking of as I start this
> project. I am thinking that this is the perfect time for TJ flares, maybe
> rocker guards. Anything else I should thing through before I get too far
> into the paint?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: auto body class
That is just the info I was looking for. The instructor said that he can
put us on a bench and let us practice weld all we want before we weld on our
own cars, and if we get nervous working on our own welds he will take over
if we need. I plan on spending a few hours just letting him be my coach
while I weld patches into a piece of scrap metal.
The other key I picked up on the first night were some of the tools that are
used for the basics. I have never regretted buying any tool, and I can see
a few tools such as a palm orbital DA sander, an in-line sander, and a kit
of assorted hammers and dolly's would go along way and pay for themselves
very quickly. Anyone have suggestions for other "starter" tools that I
should look for? I think that time spent in class will help to answer that
question, but I like to hear from others with home experience.
"Jeff Gross" <jeffgross@charter.net> wrote in message
news:vn3s8k2i4mdj1c@corp.supernews.com...
> Congratulations on making the effort to do body work right! It's really
> pretty easy to learn, and just because you aren't looking for 'show
> quality' work on your trail Jeep doesn't mean that the skills between
> 'good enough' and 'show quality' are really much different. The biggest
> difference is how patient you are with your own work and how much time
> you take for the little details. Doing your lap seams correctly (for
> example) and being able to make them look 'glass perfect' usually means
> you've got a good strong joint that won't allow air/water in there to
> rust again - making for a stronger truck.
>
> If you don't know how to weld yet, spend a LOT of time practicing your
> technique and get as good as you can on the school's dime. Spend
> particular attention to gas welding - it's the oldest joining technique
> used in auto body and getting good at it is a priceless skill. Get
> familiar with MIG welding as well, both flux-core and 'true' MIG with
> shielding gas and solid wire. Both are used extensively by the pros for
> good reason. Arc welding is fine for heavy fabrication and field fixes
> if it's all you have available, but in body work, it's next to useless.
> I'm not just touting my favorite type because I only have one. I
> actually have a Lincoln 225 amp arc, a Century MIG w/ Argon/CO2 gas and
> an oxy/acy gas outfit. Gas is best & MIG is a VERY close second best for
> sheet metal - period. Forget TIG welding. It ROCKS for sheet metal, but
> it's so expensive you almost never learn it without going to tech school
> full time or learning it on the job.
>
> You'll make up your own mind about flares & such as you learn the skills
> you'll get in class. Only by being intimately familiar with your Jeep
> can you make the truly 'right' decisions about what to do with it, and
> you soon will be. You'll also be able to make better buying decisions in
> the future on every vehicle you look at with your newfound skills. I'd
> focus on the basics this time around and if you sign up again like some
> of your classmates, you can fab up some dandy flares & stuff then. The
> nice thing about learning body work right is that once you have that
> skill, you'll realise how cheap & easy it really is to crank out so many
> things you see for sale for 'BucksDeLuxe' it's just stupid. You'll find
> yourself just looking for stuff to make if you like doing that kind of
> thing.
>
> I took auto body for 4 semesters at a tech school when I was still in
> high school, and I wouldn't trade that knowledge for anything 25 years
> later. I've never worked in an auto shop of any kind, but I've built
> about a dozen cars & trucks from the ground up not counting the ******
> Wagon I have in about a million pieces right now with big holes cut out
> of it (rust & damage repair).
>
> Cheers,
> - Jeff G
> 67 Kaiser Jeepster Commando
> 50 ****** 4x4 Station Wagon
> http://jeffgross.com/******
>
>
>
> Fletcher wrote:
> > I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under
control
> > and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> > local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I
was<<snip>>
>
put us on a bench and let us practice weld all we want before we weld on our
own cars, and if we get nervous working on our own welds he will take over
if we need. I plan on spending a few hours just letting him be my coach
while I weld patches into a piece of scrap metal.
The other key I picked up on the first night were some of the tools that are
used for the basics. I have never regretted buying any tool, and I can see
a few tools such as a palm orbital DA sander, an in-line sander, and a kit
of assorted hammers and dolly's would go along way and pay for themselves
very quickly. Anyone have suggestions for other "starter" tools that I
should look for? I think that time spent in class will help to answer that
question, but I like to hear from others with home experience.
"Jeff Gross" <jeffgross@charter.net> wrote in message
news:vn3s8k2i4mdj1c@corp.supernews.com...
> Congratulations on making the effort to do body work right! It's really
> pretty easy to learn, and just because you aren't looking for 'show
> quality' work on your trail Jeep doesn't mean that the skills between
> 'good enough' and 'show quality' are really much different. The biggest
> difference is how patient you are with your own work and how much time
> you take for the little details. Doing your lap seams correctly (for
> example) and being able to make them look 'glass perfect' usually means
> you've got a good strong joint that won't allow air/water in there to
> rust again - making for a stronger truck.
>
> If you don't know how to weld yet, spend a LOT of time practicing your
> technique and get as good as you can on the school's dime. Spend
> particular attention to gas welding - it's the oldest joining technique
> used in auto body and getting good at it is a priceless skill. Get
> familiar with MIG welding as well, both flux-core and 'true' MIG with
> shielding gas and solid wire. Both are used extensively by the pros for
> good reason. Arc welding is fine for heavy fabrication and field fixes
> if it's all you have available, but in body work, it's next to useless.
> I'm not just touting my favorite type because I only have one. I
> actually have a Lincoln 225 amp arc, a Century MIG w/ Argon/CO2 gas and
> an oxy/acy gas outfit. Gas is best & MIG is a VERY close second best for
> sheet metal - period. Forget TIG welding. It ROCKS for sheet metal, but
> it's so expensive you almost never learn it without going to tech school
> full time or learning it on the job.
>
> You'll make up your own mind about flares & such as you learn the skills
> you'll get in class. Only by being intimately familiar with your Jeep
> can you make the truly 'right' decisions about what to do with it, and
> you soon will be. You'll also be able to make better buying decisions in
> the future on every vehicle you look at with your newfound skills. I'd
> focus on the basics this time around and if you sign up again like some
> of your classmates, you can fab up some dandy flares & stuff then. The
> nice thing about learning body work right is that once you have that
> skill, you'll realise how cheap & easy it really is to crank out so many
> things you see for sale for 'BucksDeLuxe' it's just stupid. You'll find
> yourself just looking for stuff to make if you like doing that kind of
> thing.
>
> I took auto body for 4 semesters at a tech school when I was still in
> high school, and I wouldn't trade that knowledge for anything 25 years
> later. I've never worked in an auto shop of any kind, but I've built
> about a dozen cars & trucks from the ground up not counting the ******
> Wagon I have in about a million pieces right now with big holes cut out
> of it (rust & damage repair).
>
> Cheers,
> - Jeff G
> 67 Kaiser Jeepster Commando
> 50 ****** 4x4 Station Wagon
> http://jeffgross.com/******
>
>
>
> Fletcher wrote:
> > I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under
control
> > and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> > local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I
was<<snip>>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: auto body class
That is just the info I was looking for. The instructor said that he can
put us on a bench and let us practice weld all we want before we weld on our
own cars, and if we get nervous working on our own welds he will take over
if we need. I plan on spending a few hours just letting him be my coach
while I weld patches into a piece of scrap metal.
The other key I picked up on the first night were some of the tools that are
used for the basics. I have never regretted buying any tool, and I can see
a few tools such as a palm orbital DA sander, an in-line sander, and a kit
of assorted hammers and dolly's would go along way and pay for themselves
very quickly. Anyone have suggestions for other "starter" tools that I
should look for? I think that time spent in class will help to answer that
question, but I like to hear from others with home experience.
"Jeff Gross" <jeffgross@charter.net> wrote in message
news:vn3s8k2i4mdj1c@corp.supernews.com...
> Congratulations on making the effort to do body work right! It's really
> pretty easy to learn, and just because you aren't looking for 'show
> quality' work on your trail Jeep doesn't mean that the skills between
> 'good enough' and 'show quality' are really much different. The biggest
> difference is how patient you are with your own work and how much time
> you take for the little details. Doing your lap seams correctly (for
> example) and being able to make them look 'glass perfect' usually means
> you've got a good strong joint that won't allow air/water in there to
> rust again - making for a stronger truck.
>
> If you don't know how to weld yet, spend a LOT of time practicing your
> technique and get as good as you can on the school's dime. Spend
> particular attention to gas welding - it's the oldest joining technique
> used in auto body and getting good at it is a priceless skill. Get
> familiar with MIG welding as well, both flux-core and 'true' MIG with
> shielding gas and solid wire. Both are used extensively by the pros for
> good reason. Arc welding is fine for heavy fabrication and field fixes
> if it's all you have available, but in body work, it's next to useless.
> I'm not just touting my favorite type because I only have one. I
> actually have a Lincoln 225 amp arc, a Century MIG w/ Argon/CO2 gas and
> an oxy/acy gas outfit. Gas is best & MIG is a VERY close second best for
> sheet metal - period. Forget TIG welding. It ROCKS for sheet metal, but
> it's so expensive you almost never learn it without going to tech school
> full time or learning it on the job.
>
> You'll make up your own mind about flares & such as you learn the skills
> you'll get in class. Only by being intimately familiar with your Jeep
> can you make the truly 'right' decisions about what to do with it, and
> you soon will be. You'll also be able to make better buying decisions in
> the future on every vehicle you look at with your newfound skills. I'd
> focus on the basics this time around and if you sign up again like some
> of your classmates, you can fab up some dandy flares & stuff then. The
> nice thing about learning body work right is that once you have that
> skill, you'll realise how cheap & easy it really is to crank out so many
> things you see for sale for 'BucksDeLuxe' it's just stupid. You'll find
> yourself just looking for stuff to make if you like doing that kind of
> thing.
>
> I took auto body for 4 semesters at a tech school when I was still in
> high school, and I wouldn't trade that knowledge for anything 25 years
> later. I've never worked in an auto shop of any kind, but I've built
> about a dozen cars & trucks from the ground up not counting the ******
> Wagon I have in about a million pieces right now with big holes cut out
> of it (rust & damage repair).
>
> Cheers,
> - Jeff G
> 67 Kaiser Jeepster Commando
> 50 ****** 4x4 Station Wagon
> http://jeffgross.com/******
>
>
>
> Fletcher wrote:
> > I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under
control
> > and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> > local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I
was<<snip>>
>
put us on a bench and let us practice weld all we want before we weld on our
own cars, and if we get nervous working on our own welds he will take over
if we need. I plan on spending a few hours just letting him be my coach
while I weld patches into a piece of scrap metal.
The other key I picked up on the first night were some of the tools that are
used for the basics. I have never regretted buying any tool, and I can see
a few tools such as a palm orbital DA sander, an in-line sander, and a kit
of assorted hammers and dolly's would go along way and pay for themselves
very quickly. Anyone have suggestions for other "starter" tools that I
should look for? I think that time spent in class will help to answer that
question, but I like to hear from others with home experience.
"Jeff Gross" <jeffgross@charter.net> wrote in message
news:vn3s8k2i4mdj1c@corp.supernews.com...
> Congratulations on making the effort to do body work right! It's really
> pretty easy to learn, and just because you aren't looking for 'show
> quality' work on your trail Jeep doesn't mean that the skills between
> 'good enough' and 'show quality' are really much different. The biggest
> difference is how patient you are with your own work and how much time
> you take for the little details. Doing your lap seams correctly (for
> example) and being able to make them look 'glass perfect' usually means
> you've got a good strong joint that won't allow air/water in there to
> rust again - making for a stronger truck.
>
> If you don't know how to weld yet, spend a LOT of time practicing your
> technique and get as good as you can on the school's dime. Spend
> particular attention to gas welding - it's the oldest joining technique
> used in auto body and getting good at it is a priceless skill. Get
> familiar with MIG welding as well, both flux-core and 'true' MIG with
> shielding gas and solid wire. Both are used extensively by the pros for
> good reason. Arc welding is fine for heavy fabrication and field fixes
> if it's all you have available, but in body work, it's next to useless.
> I'm not just touting my favorite type because I only have one. I
> actually have a Lincoln 225 amp arc, a Century MIG w/ Argon/CO2 gas and
> an oxy/acy gas outfit. Gas is best & MIG is a VERY close second best for
> sheet metal - period. Forget TIG welding. It ROCKS for sheet metal, but
> it's so expensive you almost never learn it without going to tech school
> full time or learning it on the job.
>
> You'll make up your own mind about flares & such as you learn the skills
> you'll get in class. Only by being intimately familiar with your Jeep
> can you make the truly 'right' decisions about what to do with it, and
> you soon will be. You'll also be able to make better buying decisions in
> the future on every vehicle you look at with your newfound skills. I'd
> focus on the basics this time around and if you sign up again like some
> of your classmates, you can fab up some dandy flares & stuff then. The
> nice thing about learning body work right is that once you have that
> skill, you'll realise how cheap & easy it really is to crank out so many
> things you see for sale for 'BucksDeLuxe' it's just stupid. You'll find
> yourself just looking for stuff to make if you like doing that kind of
> thing.
>
> I took auto body for 4 semesters at a tech school when I was still in
> high school, and I wouldn't trade that knowledge for anything 25 years
> later. I've never worked in an auto shop of any kind, but I've built
> about a dozen cars & trucks from the ground up not counting the ******
> Wagon I have in about a million pieces right now with big holes cut out
> of it (rust & damage repair).
>
> Cheers,
> - Jeff G
> 67 Kaiser Jeepster Commando
> 50 ****** 4x4 Station Wagon
> http://jeffgross.com/******
>
>
>
> Fletcher wrote:
> > I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under
control
> > and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> > local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I
was<<snip>>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: auto body class
I had to do some quick and dirty last summer while I was away from
home so I grabbed a set of dollies and hammers from Harbor Freight
just to get by. I don't care for the pick - too short - but it's a
surprisingly good set especially for the price. It was less than $20
and all I really missed was a good shrinking hammer. The dollies are
actually pretty nice regardless of price.
On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 21:19:57 UTC "Fletcher" <no_email@please.com>
wrote:
> That is just the info I was looking for. The instructor said that he can
> put us on a bench and let us practice weld all we want before we weld on our
> own cars, and if we get nervous working on our own welds he will take over
> if we need. I plan on spending a few hours just letting him be my coach
> while I weld patches into a piece of scrap metal.
> The other key I picked up on the first night were some of the tools that are
> used for the basics. I have never regretted buying any tool, and I can see
> a few tools such as a palm orbital DA sander, an in-line sander, and a kit
> of assorted hammers and dolly's would go along way and pay for themselves
> very quickly. Anyone have suggestions for other "starter" tools that I
> should look for? I think that time spent in class will help to answer that
> question, but I like to hear from others with home experience.
>
>
> "Jeff Gross" <jeffgross@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:vn3s8k2i4mdj1c@corp.supernews.com...
> > Congratulations on making the effort to do body work right! It's really
> > pretty easy to learn, and just because you aren't looking for 'show
> > quality' work on your trail Jeep doesn't mean that the skills between
> > 'good enough' and 'show quality' are really much different. The biggest
> > difference is how patient you are with your own work and how much time
> > you take for the little details. Doing your lap seams correctly (for
> > example) and being able to make them look 'glass perfect' usually means
> > you've got a good strong joint that won't allow air/water in there to
> > rust again - making for a stronger truck.
> >
> > If you don't know how to weld yet, spend a LOT of time practicing your
> > technique and get as good as you can on the school's dime. Spend
> > particular attention to gas welding - it's the oldest joining technique
> > used in auto body and getting good at it is a priceless skill. Get
> > familiar with MIG welding as well, both flux-core and 'true' MIG with
> > shielding gas and solid wire. Both are used extensively by the pros for
> > good reason. Arc welding is fine for heavy fabrication and field fixes
> > if it's all you have available, but in body work, it's next to useless.
> > I'm not just touting my favorite type because I only have one. I
> > actually have a Lincoln 225 amp arc, a Century MIG w/ Argon/CO2 gas and
> > an oxy/acy gas outfit. Gas is best & MIG is a VERY close second best for
> > sheet metal - period. Forget TIG welding. It ROCKS for sheet metal, but
> > it's so expensive you almost never learn it without going to tech school
> > full time or learning it on the job.
> >
> > You'll make up your own mind about flares & such as you learn the skills
> > you'll get in class. Only by being intimately familiar with your Jeep
> > can you make the truly 'right' decisions about what to do with it, and
> > you soon will be. You'll also be able to make better buying decisions in
> > the future on every vehicle you look at with your newfound skills. I'd
> > focus on the basics this time around and if you sign up again like some
> > of your classmates, you can fab up some dandy flares & stuff then. The
> > nice thing about learning body work right is that once you have that
> > skill, you'll realise how cheap & easy it really is to crank out so many
> > things you see for sale for 'BucksDeLuxe' it's just stupid. You'll find
> > yourself just looking for stuff to make if you like doing that kind of
> > thing.
> >
> > I took auto body for 4 semesters at a tech school when I was still in
> > high school, and I wouldn't trade that knowledge for anything 25 years
> > later. I've never worked in an auto shop of any kind, but I've built
> > about a dozen cars & trucks from the ground up not counting the ******
> > Wagon I have in about a million pieces right now with big holes cut out
> > of it (rust & damage repair).
> >
> > Cheers,
> > - Jeff G
> > 67 Kaiser Jeepster Commando
> > 50 ****** 4x4 Station Wagon
> > http://jeffgross.com/******
> >
> >
> >
> > Fletcher wrote:
> > > I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under
> control
> > > and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> > > local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I
> was<<snip>>
> >
>
>
>
--
Will Honea
home so I grabbed a set of dollies and hammers from Harbor Freight
just to get by. I don't care for the pick - too short - but it's a
surprisingly good set especially for the price. It was less than $20
and all I really missed was a good shrinking hammer. The dollies are
actually pretty nice regardless of price.
On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 21:19:57 UTC "Fletcher" <no_email@please.com>
wrote:
> That is just the info I was looking for. The instructor said that he can
> put us on a bench and let us practice weld all we want before we weld on our
> own cars, and if we get nervous working on our own welds he will take over
> if we need. I plan on spending a few hours just letting him be my coach
> while I weld patches into a piece of scrap metal.
> The other key I picked up on the first night were some of the tools that are
> used for the basics. I have never regretted buying any tool, and I can see
> a few tools such as a palm orbital DA sander, an in-line sander, and a kit
> of assorted hammers and dolly's would go along way and pay for themselves
> very quickly. Anyone have suggestions for other "starter" tools that I
> should look for? I think that time spent in class will help to answer that
> question, but I like to hear from others with home experience.
>
>
> "Jeff Gross" <jeffgross@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:vn3s8k2i4mdj1c@corp.supernews.com...
> > Congratulations on making the effort to do body work right! It's really
> > pretty easy to learn, and just because you aren't looking for 'show
> > quality' work on your trail Jeep doesn't mean that the skills between
> > 'good enough' and 'show quality' are really much different. The biggest
> > difference is how patient you are with your own work and how much time
> > you take for the little details. Doing your lap seams correctly (for
> > example) and being able to make them look 'glass perfect' usually means
> > you've got a good strong joint that won't allow air/water in there to
> > rust again - making for a stronger truck.
> >
> > If you don't know how to weld yet, spend a LOT of time practicing your
> > technique and get as good as you can on the school's dime. Spend
> > particular attention to gas welding - it's the oldest joining technique
> > used in auto body and getting good at it is a priceless skill. Get
> > familiar with MIG welding as well, both flux-core and 'true' MIG with
> > shielding gas and solid wire. Both are used extensively by the pros for
> > good reason. Arc welding is fine for heavy fabrication and field fixes
> > if it's all you have available, but in body work, it's next to useless.
> > I'm not just touting my favorite type because I only have one. I
> > actually have a Lincoln 225 amp arc, a Century MIG w/ Argon/CO2 gas and
> > an oxy/acy gas outfit. Gas is best & MIG is a VERY close second best for
> > sheet metal - period. Forget TIG welding. It ROCKS for sheet metal, but
> > it's so expensive you almost never learn it without going to tech school
> > full time or learning it on the job.
> >
> > You'll make up your own mind about flares & such as you learn the skills
> > you'll get in class. Only by being intimately familiar with your Jeep
> > can you make the truly 'right' decisions about what to do with it, and
> > you soon will be. You'll also be able to make better buying decisions in
> > the future on every vehicle you look at with your newfound skills. I'd
> > focus on the basics this time around and if you sign up again like some
> > of your classmates, you can fab up some dandy flares & stuff then. The
> > nice thing about learning body work right is that once you have that
> > skill, you'll realise how cheap & easy it really is to crank out so many
> > things you see for sale for 'BucksDeLuxe' it's just stupid. You'll find
> > yourself just looking for stuff to make if you like doing that kind of
> > thing.
> >
> > I took auto body for 4 semesters at a tech school when I was still in
> > high school, and I wouldn't trade that knowledge for anything 25 years
> > later. I've never worked in an auto shop of any kind, but I've built
> > about a dozen cars & trucks from the ground up not counting the ******
> > Wagon I have in about a million pieces right now with big holes cut out
> > of it (rust & damage repair).
> >
> > Cheers,
> > - Jeff G
> > 67 Kaiser Jeepster Commando
> > 50 ****** 4x4 Station Wagon
> > http://jeffgross.com/******
> >
> >
> >
> > Fletcher wrote:
> > > I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under
> control
> > > and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> > > local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I
> was<<snip>>
> >
>
>
>
--
Will Honea
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: auto body class
I had to do some quick and dirty last summer while I was away from
home so I grabbed a set of dollies and hammers from Harbor Freight
just to get by. I don't care for the pick - too short - but it's a
surprisingly good set especially for the price. It was less than $20
and all I really missed was a good shrinking hammer. The dollies are
actually pretty nice regardless of price.
On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 21:19:57 UTC "Fletcher" <no_email@please.com>
wrote:
> That is just the info I was looking for. The instructor said that he can
> put us on a bench and let us practice weld all we want before we weld on our
> own cars, and if we get nervous working on our own welds he will take over
> if we need. I plan on spending a few hours just letting him be my coach
> while I weld patches into a piece of scrap metal.
> The other key I picked up on the first night were some of the tools that are
> used for the basics. I have never regretted buying any tool, and I can see
> a few tools such as a palm orbital DA sander, an in-line sander, and a kit
> of assorted hammers and dolly's would go along way and pay for themselves
> very quickly. Anyone have suggestions for other "starter" tools that I
> should look for? I think that time spent in class will help to answer that
> question, but I like to hear from others with home experience.
>
>
> "Jeff Gross" <jeffgross@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:vn3s8k2i4mdj1c@corp.supernews.com...
> > Congratulations on making the effort to do body work right! It's really
> > pretty easy to learn, and just because you aren't looking for 'show
> > quality' work on your trail Jeep doesn't mean that the skills between
> > 'good enough' and 'show quality' are really much different. The biggest
> > difference is how patient you are with your own work and how much time
> > you take for the little details. Doing your lap seams correctly (for
> > example) and being able to make them look 'glass perfect' usually means
> > you've got a good strong joint that won't allow air/water in there to
> > rust again - making for a stronger truck.
> >
> > If you don't know how to weld yet, spend a LOT of time practicing your
> > technique and get as good as you can on the school's dime. Spend
> > particular attention to gas welding - it's the oldest joining technique
> > used in auto body and getting good at it is a priceless skill. Get
> > familiar with MIG welding as well, both flux-core and 'true' MIG with
> > shielding gas and solid wire. Both are used extensively by the pros for
> > good reason. Arc welding is fine for heavy fabrication and field fixes
> > if it's all you have available, but in body work, it's next to useless.
> > I'm not just touting my favorite type because I only have one. I
> > actually have a Lincoln 225 amp arc, a Century MIG w/ Argon/CO2 gas and
> > an oxy/acy gas outfit. Gas is best & MIG is a VERY close second best for
> > sheet metal - period. Forget TIG welding. It ROCKS for sheet metal, but
> > it's so expensive you almost never learn it without going to tech school
> > full time or learning it on the job.
> >
> > You'll make up your own mind about flares & such as you learn the skills
> > you'll get in class. Only by being intimately familiar with your Jeep
> > can you make the truly 'right' decisions about what to do with it, and
> > you soon will be. You'll also be able to make better buying decisions in
> > the future on every vehicle you look at with your newfound skills. I'd
> > focus on the basics this time around and if you sign up again like some
> > of your classmates, you can fab up some dandy flares & stuff then. The
> > nice thing about learning body work right is that once you have that
> > skill, you'll realise how cheap & easy it really is to crank out so many
> > things you see for sale for 'BucksDeLuxe' it's just stupid. You'll find
> > yourself just looking for stuff to make if you like doing that kind of
> > thing.
> >
> > I took auto body for 4 semesters at a tech school when I was still in
> > high school, and I wouldn't trade that knowledge for anything 25 years
> > later. I've never worked in an auto shop of any kind, but I've built
> > about a dozen cars & trucks from the ground up not counting the ******
> > Wagon I have in about a million pieces right now with big holes cut out
> > of it (rust & damage repair).
> >
> > Cheers,
> > - Jeff G
> > 67 Kaiser Jeepster Commando
> > 50 ****** 4x4 Station Wagon
> > http://jeffgross.com/******
> >
> >
> >
> > Fletcher wrote:
> > > I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under
> control
> > > and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> > > local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I
> was<<snip>>
> >
>
>
>
--
Will Honea
home so I grabbed a set of dollies and hammers from Harbor Freight
just to get by. I don't care for the pick - too short - but it's a
surprisingly good set especially for the price. It was less than $20
and all I really missed was a good shrinking hammer. The dollies are
actually pretty nice regardless of price.
On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 21:19:57 UTC "Fletcher" <no_email@please.com>
wrote:
> That is just the info I was looking for. The instructor said that he can
> put us on a bench and let us practice weld all we want before we weld on our
> own cars, and if we get nervous working on our own welds he will take over
> if we need. I plan on spending a few hours just letting him be my coach
> while I weld patches into a piece of scrap metal.
> The other key I picked up on the first night were some of the tools that are
> used for the basics. I have never regretted buying any tool, and I can see
> a few tools such as a palm orbital DA sander, an in-line sander, and a kit
> of assorted hammers and dolly's would go along way and pay for themselves
> very quickly. Anyone have suggestions for other "starter" tools that I
> should look for? I think that time spent in class will help to answer that
> question, but I like to hear from others with home experience.
>
>
> "Jeff Gross" <jeffgross@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:vn3s8k2i4mdj1c@corp.supernews.com...
> > Congratulations on making the effort to do body work right! It's really
> > pretty easy to learn, and just because you aren't looking for 'show
> > quality' work on your trail Jeep doesn't mean that the skills between
> > 'good enough' and 'show quality' are really much different. The biggest
> > difference is how patient you are with your own work and how much time
> > you take for the little details. Doing your lap seams correctly (for
> > example) and being able to make them look 'glass perfect' usually means
> > you've got a good strong joint that won't allow air/water in there to
> > rust again - making for a stronger truck.
> >
> > If you don't know how to weld yet, spend a LOT of time practicing your
> > technique and get as good as you can on the school's dime. Spend
> > particular attention to gas welding - it's the oldest joining technique
> > used in auto body and getting good at it is a priceless skill. Get
> > familiar with MIG welding as well, both flux-core and 'true' MIG with
> > shielding gas and solid wire. Both are used extensively by the pros for
> > good reason. Arc welding is fine for heavy fabrication and field fixes
> > if it's all you have available, but in body work, it's next to useless.
> > I'm not just touting my favorite type because I only have one. I
> > actually have a Lincoln 225 amp arc, a Century MIG w/ Argon/CO2 gas and
> > an oxy/acy gas outfit. Gas is best & MIG is a VERY close second best for
> > sheet metal - period. Forget TIG welding. It ROCKS for sheet metal, but
> > it's so expensive you almost never learn it without going to tech school
> > full time or learning it on the job.
> >
> > You'll make up your own mind about flares & such as you learn the skills
> > you'll get in class. Only by being intimately familiar with your Jeep
> > can you make the truly 'right' decisions about what to do with it, and
> > you soon will be. You'll also be able to make better buying decisions in
> > the future on every vehicle you look at with your newfound skills. I'd
> > focus on the basics this time around and if you sign up again like some
> > of your classmates, you can fab up some dandy flares & stuff then. The
> > nice thing about learning body work right is that once you have that
> > skill, you'll realise how cheap & easy it really is to crank out so many
> > things you see for sale for 'BucksDeLuxe' it's just stupid. You'll find
> > yourself just looking for stuff to make if you like doing that kind of
> > thing.
> >
> > I took auto body for 4 semesters at a tech school when I was still in
> > high school, and I wouldn't trade that knowledge for anything 25 years
> > later. I've never worked in an auto shop of any kind, but I've built
> > about a dozen cars & trucks from the ground up not counting the ******
> > Wagon I have in about a million pieces right now with big holes cut out
> > of it (rust & damage repair).
> >
> > Cheers,
> > - Jeff G
> > 67 Kaiser Jeepster Commando
> > 50 ****** 4x4 Station Wagon
> > http://jeffgross.com/******
> >
> >
> >
> > Fletcher wrote:
> > > I want to learn the "right" way to keep the rust on my 83 CJ-7 under
> control
> > > and looking good, so I signed up for a autbody class through one of the
> > > local school districts that run 3 hours a night for 9 weeks. I
> was<<snip>>
> >
>
>
>
--
Will Honea
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: auto body class
For home use, Harbor Freight is the best place for tools to start out.
Lots of folks rag on them for a number of reasons (made in China, not
Snap-On, etc), but for someone working on their own vehicles they'll
last as long as anything 4x the cost if you just maintain them properly.
Too many people buy low-buck tools to start, don't take care of them
(because they don't know how & air tools of any brand are particularly
sensitive to neglect), then convince themselves that high $$$ tools are
the only way to go.
If you use an impact wrench 3+ hrs./day - 5 days/week, buy the best you
can afford, and having a truck come to your place of employment with
nearly unlimited credit isn't bad for someone who uses those tools at
work every day for their livelihood. If you use it 10 weekends/year, buy
a heavy duty one @ HF and put a couple drops of air tool oil in the air
inlet fitting before & after every use and it'll last for years. Same
goes for hand tools and body tools are no exception. Put them in a
toolbox off the floor and they'll last a lifetime. Lay them on the floor
overnight and they'll fail real quick.
Personally, I prefer hand tools for filing and sanding. Power/air tools
are OK if you're real experienced, but it takes a real soft touch with
an in-line air file to not just grind right through everything you just
laid up. Learn on manual procedures and move up to power when you feel
you have a good touch and eye for smooth level surfaces, including
compound curved surfaces. Nothing looks as good as real hand work.
It can be tempting to let the instructor take over with welding, but
don't give in to it. Do it yourself even if it means cutting off a
crappy weld to re-do it. You'll see why as you get into it. If you have
to have him do something like weld around a corner or inside a curved
surface, stick your face right in there (properly protected, of course)
to watch exactly what he's doing and don't feel like a dork asking a
million 'stupid' questions. You're paying for his time and any decent
instructor will be more than happy to explain every boring little thing
about how/why he's doing something. Most will use your questions to help
everyone else in class as well.
Cheers,
- Jeff G
Fletcher wrote:
> That is just the info I was looking for. The instructor said that he can
> put us on a bench and let us practice weld all we want before we weld on our
> own cars, and if we get nervous working on our own welds he will take over
> if we need. I plan on spending a few hours just letting him be my coach
> while I weld patches into a piece of scrap metal.
> The other key I picked up on the first night were some of the tools that are
> used for the basics. I have never regretted buying any tool, and I can see
> a few tools such as a palm orbital DA sander, an in-line sander, and a kit
> of assorted hammers and dolly's would go along way and pay for themselves
> very quickly. Anyone have suggestions for other "starter" tools that I
> should look for? I think that time spent in class will help to answer that
> question, but I like to hear from others with home experience.
>
> <<snip>>
Lots of folks rag on them for a number of reasons (made in China, not
Snap-On, etc), but for someone working on their own vehicles they'll
last as long as anything 4x the cost if you just maintain them properly.
Too many people buy low-buck tools to start, don't take care of them
(because they don't know how & air tools of any brand are particularly
sensitive to neglect), then convince themselves that high $$$ tools are
the only way to go.
If you use an impact wrench 3+ hrs./day - 5 days/week, buy the best you
can afford, and having a truck come to your place of employment with
nearly unlimited credit isn't bad for someone who uses those tools at
work every day for their livelihood. If you use it 10 weekends/year, buy
a heavy duty one @ HF and put a couple drops of air tool oil in the air
inlet fitting before & after every use and it'll last for years. Same
goes for hand tools and body tools are no exception. Put them in a
toolbox off the floor and they'll last a lifetime. Lay them on the floor
overnight and they'll fail real quick.
Personally, I prefer hand tools for filing and sanding. Power/air tools
are OK if you're real experienced, but it takes a real soft touch with
an in-line air file to not just grind right through everything you just
laid up. Learn on manual procedures and move up to power when you feel
you have a good touch and eye for smooth level surfaces, including
compound curved surfaces. Nothing looks as good as real hand work.
It can be tempting to let the instructor take over with welding, but
don't give in to it. Do it yourself even if it means cutting off a
crappy weld to re-do it. You'll see why as you get into it. If you have
to have him do something like weld around a corner or inside a curved
surface, stick your face right in there (properly protected, of course)
to watch exactly what he's doing and don't feel like a dork asking a
million 'stupid' questions. You're paying for his time and any decent
instructor will be more than happy to explain every boring little thing
about how/why he's doing something. Most will use your questions to help
everyone else in class as well.
Cheers,
- Jeff G
Fletcher wrote:
> That is just the info I was looking for. The instructor said that he can
> put us on a bench and let us practice weld all we want before we weld on our
> own cars, and if we get nervous working on our own welds he will take over
> if we need. I plan on spending a few hours just letting him be my coach
> while I weld patches into a piece of scrap metal.
> The other key I picked up on the first night were some of the tools that are
> used for the basics. I have never regretted buying any tool, and I can see
> a few tools such as a palm orbital DA sander, an in-line sander, and a kit
> of assorted hammers and dolly's would go along way and pay for themselves
> very quickly. Anyone have suggestions for other "starter" tools that I
> should look for? I think that time spent in class will help to answer that
> question, but I like to hear from others with home experience.
>
> <<snip>>