When I get my block back from the shop, I'm thinking about making a
modification to it to assist in the engine oiling and oil pressure.
Granted, the condition of the bearings did not help the situation but, I do
not want to have a freshly rebuilt engine and no oil pressure. Before I
pulled the thing, I had about 50lbs at startup and it went down to (almost)
non-existant when it warmed up. I do not, however, know the accuracy of the
gage. There are two issues here 1) oiling the rear and front of the engine
and 2) oil pressure due to warn timing cover.

I've found a few pieces of information on how to handle problem #1, but it
is not sufficient. In case not everyone is up on this subject, I've grabbed
this bit of information from a Q&A on the 'net.

11) Engine Oiling:
- AMC V8s tend to starve the rear crankshaft bearings and distributor gears.
The solution is to put a TIG welding tip into a oil gallery plug. TeamRush's
instructions follow: I drilled the left (odd) bank lifter gallery plug in
the front at an angle directed at the fuel pump eccentric and the
distributor gear. I threaded the plug, and screwed it back into the block,
then screwed a 0.024" mig welder tip into it. When the oil pressure is up,
it sprays a continuous stream of oil on the top crankshaft gear.

If this is the thing to do, I'd like to see a few pictures of the process,
if they exist.

For the rear main, I found a kit from American Performance Products that and
I'm going to inquire about to see if I need to have the block machined in a
few locations before it get it back.

For the pressure issue, it is recommended is to check the clearances on the
timing cover/oil pump cover and either rebuild it or replace it. I've
rebuit the oil pump when I replaced the timing set, but some say that is not
enough. Not sure what to do here. I can check the clearance on the one
that I have or should I just buy an aftermarket timing cover?

Chip



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

 

Hi Chip,
If the 360" is sitting in a Real Jeep, you can say with one hundred
percent assurances that it needs a new timing chain cover. Especially
when you tell us you have fifty instead of eighty pounds bypass cold
Idling and zero hot, means the bypass valve was whacked and stuck fully
open. You may not see the damage from out side, unless some paint is
chipped away from the impact with the differential. Usually there's a
combination of things that let that happen, first you must do a jump
that'll fully compress your springs and be missing the bump stop on that
side or have a weak engine mount on that side, but that is the reason
most of AMC's V8 have gone to Chevy.
I don't believe you need the distributor gear oiler modification,
again that is the bypass problem only this time it's stuck shut, and the
gear is not strong enough to twist the shaft in two. You may see the
little piston valve at: http://www.drivetrain.com/jeepengineparts.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

WKJ wrote:
>
> When I get my block back from the shop, I'm thinking about making a
> modification to it to assist in the engine oiling and oil pressure.
> Granted, the condition of the bearings did not help the situation but, I do
> not want to have a freshly rebuilt engine and no oil pressure. Before I
> pulled the thing, I had about 50lbs at startup and it went down to (almost)
> non-existant when it warmed up. I do not, however, know the accuracy of the
> gage. There are two issues here 1) oiling the rear and front of the engine
> and 2) oil pressure due to warn timing cover.
>
> I've found a few pieces of information on how to handle problem #1, but it
> is not sufficient. In case not everyone is up on this subject, I've grabbed
> this bit of information from a Q&A on the 'net.
>
> 11) Engine Oiling:
> - AMC V8s tend to starve the rear crankshaft bearings and distributor gears.
> The solution is to put a TIG welding tip into a oil gallery plug. TeamRush's
> instructions follow: I drilled the left (odd) bank lifter gallery plug in
> the front at an angle directed at the fuel pump eccentric and the
> distributor gear. I threaded the plug, and screwed it back into the block,
> then screwed a 0.024" mig welder tip into it. When the oil pressure is up,
> it sprays a continuous stream of oil on the top crankshaft gear.
>
> If this is the thing to do, I'd like to see a few pictures of the process,
> if they exist.
>
> For the rear main, I found a kit from American Performance Products that and
> I'm going to inquire about to see if I need to have the block machined in a
> few locations before it get it back.
>
> For the pressure issue, it is recommended is to check the clearances on the
> timing cover/oil pump cover and either rebuild it or replace it. I've
> rebuit the oil pump when I replaced the timing set, but some say that is not
> enough. Not sure what to do here. I can check the clearance on the one
> that I have or should I just buy an aftermarket timing cover?
>
> Chip
>
> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

 

Hi Chip,
If the 360" is sitting in a Real Jeep, you can say with one hundred
percent assurances that it needs a new timing chain cover. Especially
when you tell us you have fifty instead of eighty pounds bypass cold
Idling and zero hot, means the bypass valve was whacked and stuck fully
open. You may not see the damage from out side, unless some paint is
chipped away from the impact with the differential. Usually there's a
combination of things that let that happen, first you must do a jump
that'll fully compress your springs and be missing the bump stop on that
side or have a weak engine mount on that side, but that is the reason
most of AMC's V8 have gone to Chevy.
I don't believe you need the distributor gear oiler modification,
again that is the bypass problem only this time it's stuck shut, and the
gear is not strong enough to twist the shaft in two. You may see the
little piston valve at: http://www.drivetrain.com/jeepengineparts.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

WKJ wrote:
>
> When I get my block back from the shop, I'm thinking about making a
> modification to it to assist in the engine oiling and oil pressure.
> Granted, the condition of the bearings did not help the situation but, I do
> not want to have a freshly rebuilt engine and no oil pressure. Before I
> pulled the thing, I had about 50lbs at startup and it went down to (almost)
> non-existant when it warmed up. I do not, however, know the accuracy of the
> gage. There are two issues here 1) oiling the rear and front of the engine
> and 2) oil pressure due to warn timing cover.
>
> I've found a few pieces of information on how to handle problem #1, but it
> is not sufficient. In case not everyone is up on this subject, I've grabbed
> this bit of information from a Q&A on the 'net.
>
> 11) Engine Oiling:
> - AMC V8s tend to starve the rear crankshaft bearings and distributor gears.
> The solution is to put a TIG welding tip into a oil gallery plug. TeamRush's
> instructions follow: I drilled the left (odd) bank lifter gallery plug in
> the front at an angle directed at the fuel pump eccentric and the
> distributor gear. I threaded the plug, and screwed it back into the block,
> then screwed a 0.024" mig welder tip into it. When the oil pressure is up,
> it sprays a continuous stream of oil on the top crankshaft gear.
>
> If this is the thing to do, I'd like to see a few pictures of the process,
> if they exist.
>
> For the rear main, I found a kit from American Performance Products that and
> I'm going to inquire about to see if I need to have the block machined in a
> few locations before it get it back.
>
> For the pressure issue, it is recommended is to check the clearances on the
> timing cover/oil pump cover and either rebuild it or replace it. I've
> rebuit the oil pump when I replaced the timing set, but some say that is not
> enough. Not sure what to do here. I can check the clearance on the one
> that I have or should I just buy an aftermarket timing cover?
>
> Chip
>
> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

 

Hi Chip,
If the 360" is sitting in a Real Jeep, you can say with one hundred
percent assurances that it needs a new timing chain cover. Especially
when you tell us you have fifty instead of eighty pounds bypass cold
Idling and zero hot, means the bypass valve was whacked and stuck fully
open. You may not see the damage from out side, unless some paint is
chipped away from the impact with the differential. Usually there's a
combination of things that let that happen, first you must do a jump
that'll fully compress your springs and be missing the bump stop on that
side or have a weak engine mount on that side, but that is the reason
most of AMC's V8 have gone to Chevy.
I don't believe you need the distributor gear oiler modification,
again that is the bypass problem only this time it's stuck shut, and the
gear is not strong enough to twist the shaft in two. You may see the
little piston valve at: http://www.drivetrain.com/jeepengineparts.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

WKJ wrote:
>
> When I get my block back from the shop, I'm thinking about making a
> modification to it to assist in the engine oiling and oil pressure.
> Granted, the condition of the bearings did not help the situation but, I do
> not want to have a freshly rebuilt engine and no oil pressure. Before I
> pulled the thing, I had about 50lbs at startup and it went down to (almost)
> non-existant when it warmed up. I do not, however, know the accuracy of the
> gage. There are two issues here 1) oiling the rear and front of the engine
> and 2) oil pressure due to warn timing cover.
>
> I've found a few pieces of information on how to handle problem #1, but it
> is not sufficient. In case not everyone is up on this subject, I've grabbed
> this bit of information from a Q&A on the 'net.
>
> 11) Engine Oiling:
> - AMC V8s tend to starve the rear crankshaft bearings and distributor gears.
> The solution is to put a TIG welding tip into a oil gallery plug. TeamRush's
> instructions follow: I drilled the left (odd) bank lifter gallery plug in
> the front at an angle directed at the fuel pump eccentric and the
> distributor gear. I threaded the plug, and screwed it back into the block,
> then screwed a 0.024" mig welder tip into it. When the oil pressure is up,
> it sprays a continuous stream of oil on the top crankshaft gear.
>
> If this is the thing to do, I'd like to see a few pictures of the process,
> if they exist.
>
> For the rear main, I found a kit from American Performance Products that and
> I'm going to inquire about to see if I need to have the block machined in a
> few locations before it get it back.
>
> For the pressure issue, it is recommended is to check the clearances on the
> timing cover/oil pump cover and either rebuild it or replace it. I've
> rebuit the oil pump when I replaced the timing set, but some say that is not
> enough. Not sure what to do here. I can check the clearance on the one
> that I have or should I just buy an aftermarket timing cover?
>
> Chip
>
> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

 

Hi Chip,
If the 360" is sitting in a Real Jeep, you can say with one hundred
percent assurances that it needs a new timing chain cover. Especially
when you tell us you have fifty instead of eighty pounds bypass cold
Idling and zero hot, means the bypass valve was whacked and stuck fully
open. You may not see the damage from out side, unless some paint is
chipped away from the impact with the differential. Usually there's a
combination of things that let that happen, first you must do a jump
that'll fully compress your springs and be missing the bump stop on that
side or have a weak engine mount on that side, but that is the reason
most of AMC's V8 have gone to Chevy.
I don't believe you need the distributor gear oiler modification,
again that is the bypass problem only this time it's stuck shut, and the
gear is not strong enough to twist the shaft in two. You may see the
little piston valve at: http://www.drivetrain.com/jeepengineparts.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

WKJ wrote:
>
> When I get my block back from the shop, I'm thinking about making a
> modification to it to assist in the engine oiling and oil pressure.
> Granted, the condition of the bearings did not help the situation but, I do
> not want to have a freshly rebuilt engine and no oil pressure. Before I
> pulled the thing, I had about 50lbs at startup and it went down to (almost)
> non-existant when it warmed up. I do not, however, know the accuracy of the
> gage. There are two issues here 1) oiling the rear and front of the engine
> and 2) oil pressure due to warn timing cover.
>
> I've found a few pieces of information on how to handle problem #1, but it
> is not sufficient. In case not everyone is up on this subject, I've grabbed
> this bit of information from a Q&A on the 'net.
>
> 11) Engine Oiling:
> - AMC V8s tend to starve the rear crankshaft bearings and distributor gears.
> The solution is to put a TIG welding tip into a oil gallery plug. TeamRush's
> instructions follow: I drilled the left (odd) bank lifter gallery plug in
> the front at an angle directed at the fuel pump eccentric and the
> distributor gear. I threaded the plug, and screwed it back into the block,
> then screwed a 0.024" mig welder tip into it. When the oil pressure is up,
> it sprays a continuous stream of oil on the top crankshaft gear.
>
> If this is the thing to do, I'd like to see a few pictures of the process,
> if they exist.
>
> For the rear main, I found a kit from American Performance Products that and
> I'm going to inquire about to see if I need to have the block machined in a
> few locations before it get it back.
>
> For the pressure issue, it is recommended is to check the clearances on the
> timing cover/oil pump cover and either rebuild it or replace it. I've
> rebuit the oil pump when I replaced the timing set, but some say that is not
> enough. Not sure what to do here. I can check the clearance on the one
> that I have or should I just buy an aftermarket timing cover?
>
> Chip
>
> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

 

Bill,
I do not really know the history of that engine. I'll never know what
happened to the engine before it was installed in my jeep. The original
engine was a 304 and has probably been melted down to make fence posts. I
do know that the terrible condition of the bearings (some of the cam
bearings had buildup on the inside, bearing surface) had a great deal to do
with the bad oil pressure. I'm thinking that I should replace the timing
cover just to be on the safe side and install the oil line kit from APP in
the block to help oil rear main. Does that seem to be the safe appraoch, in
your opinion?

Thanks,

Chip



"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4290E2D0.944287F3@***.net...
> Hi Chip,
> If the 360" is sitting in a Real Jeep, you can say with one hundred
> percent assurances that it needs a new timing chain cover. Especially
> when you tell us you have fifty instead of eighty pounds bypass cold
> Idling and zero hot, means the bypass valve was whacked and stuck fully
> open. You may not see the damage from out side, unless some paint is
> chipped away from the impact with the differential. Usually there's a
> combination of things that let that happen, first you must do a jump
> that'll fully compress your springs and be missing the bump stop on that
> side or have a weak engine mount on that side, but that is the reason
> most of AMC's V8 have gone to Chevy.
> I don't believe you need the distributor gear oiler modification,
> again that is the bypass problem only this time it's stuck shut, and the
> gear is not strong enough to twist the shaft in two. You may see the
> little piston valve at: http://www.drivetrain.com/jeepengineparts.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> WKJ wrote:
>>
>> When I get my block back from the shop, I'm thinking about making a
>> modification to it to assist in the engine oiling and oil pressure.
>> Granted, the condition of the bearings did not help the situation but, I
>> do
>> not want to have a freshly rebuilt engine and no oil pressure. Before I
>> pulled the thing, I had about 50lbs at startup and it went down to
>> (almost)
>> non-existant when it warmed up. I do not, however, know the accuracy of
>> the
>> gage. There are two issues here 1) oiling the rear and front of the
>> engine
>> and 2) oil pressure due to warn timing cover.
>>
>> I've found a few pieces of information on how to handle problem #1, but
>> it
>> is not sufficient. In case not everyone is up on this subject, I've
>> grabbed
>> this bit of information from a Q&A on the 'net.
>>
>> 11) Engine Oiling:
>> - AMC V8s tend to starve the rear crankshaft bearings and distributor
>> gears.
>> The solution is to put a TIG welding tip into a oil gallery plug.
>> TeamRush's
>> instructions follow: I drilled the left (odd) bank lifter gallery plug in
>> the front at an angle directed at the fuel pump eccentric and the
>> distributor gear. I threaded the plug, and screwed it back into the
>> block,
>> then screwed a 0.024" mig welder tip into it. When the oil pressure is
>> up,
>> it sprays a continuous stream of oil on the top crankshaft gear.
>>
>> If this is the thing to do, I'd like to see a few pictures of the
>> process,
>> if they exist.
>>
>> For the rear main, I found a kit from American Performance Products that
>> and
>> I'm going to inquire about to see if I need to have the block machined in
>> a
>> few locations before it get it back.
>>
>> For the pressure issue, it is recommended is to check the clearances on
>> the
>> timing cover/oil pump cover and either rebuild it or replace it. I've
>> rebuit the oil pump when I replaced the timing set, but some say that is
>> not
>> enough. Not sure what to do here. I can check the clearance on the one
>> that I have or should I just buy an aftermarket timing cover?
>>
>> Chip
>>
>> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet
>> News==----
>> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
>> Newsgroups
>> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
>> =----

 

Bill,
I do not really know the history of that engine. I'll never know what
happened to the engine before it was installed in my jeep. The original
engine was a 304 and has probably been melted down to make fence posts. I
do know that the terrible condition of the bearings (some of the cam
bearings had buildup on the inside, bearing surface) had a great deal to do
with the bad oil pressure. I'm thinking that I should replace the timing
cover just to be on the safe side and install the oil line kit from APP in
the block to help oil rear main. Does that seem to be the safe appraoch, in
your opinion?

Thanks,

Chip



"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4290E2D0.944287F3@***.net...
> Hi Chip,
> If the 360" is sitting in a Real Jeep, you can say with one hundred
> percent assurances that it needs a new timing chain cover. Especially
> when you tell us you have fifty instead of eighty pounds bypass cold
> Idling and zero hot, means the bypass valve was whacked and stuck fully
> open. You may not see the damage from out side, unless some paint is
> chipped away from the impact with the differential. Usually there's a
> combination of things that let that happen, first you must do a jump
> that'll fully compress your springs and be missing the bump stop on that
> side or have a weak engine mount on that side, but that is the reason
> most of AMC's V8 have gone to Chevy.
> I don't believe you need the distributor gear oiler modification,
> again that is the bypass problem only this time it's stuck shut, and the
> gear is not strong enough to twist the shaft in two. You may see the
> little piston valve at: http://www.drivetrain.com/jeepengineparts.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> WKJ wrote:
>>
>> When I get my block back from the shop, I'm thinking about making a
>> modification to it to assist in the engine oiling and oil pressure.
>> Granted, the condition of the bearings did not help the situation but, I
>> do
>> not want to have a freshly rebuilt engine and no oil pressure. Before I
>> pulled the thing, I had about 50lbs at startup and it went down to
>> (almost)
>> non-existant when it warmed up. I do not, however, know the accuracy of
>> the
>> gage. There are two issues here 1) oiling the rear and front of the
>> engine
>> and 2) oil pressure due to warn timing cover.
>>
>> I've found a few pieces of information on how to handle problem #1, but
>> it
>> is not sufficient. In case not everyone is up on this subject, I've
>> grabbed
>> this bit of information from a Q&A on the 'net.
>>
>> 11) Engine Oiling:
>> - AMC V8s tend to starve the rear crankshaft bearings and distributor
>> gears.
>> The solution is to put a TIG welding tip into a oil gallery plug.
>> TeamRush's
>> instructions follow: I drilled the left (odd) bank lifter gallery plug in
>> the front at an angle directed at the fuel pump eccentric and the
>> distributor gear. I threaded the plug, and screwed it back into the
>> block,
>> then screwed a 0.024" mig welder tip into it. When the oil pressure is
>> up,
>> it sprays a continuous stream of oil on the top crankshaft gear.
>>
>> If this is the thing to do, I'd like to see a few pictures of the
>> process,
>> if they exist.
>>
>> For the rear main, I found a kit from American Performance Products that
>> and
>> I'm going to inquire about to see if I need to have the block machined in
>> a
>> few locations before it get it back.
>>
>> For the pressure issue, it is recommended is to check the clearances on
>> the
>> timing cover/oil pump cover and either rebuild it or replace it. I've
>> rebuit the oil pump when I replaced the timing set, but some say that is
>> not
>> enough. Not sure what to do here. I can check the clearance on the one
>> that I have or should I just buy an aftermarket timing cover?
>>
>> Chip
>>
>> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet
>> News==----
>> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
>> Newsgroups
>> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
>> =----

 

Bill,
I do not really know the history of that engine. I'll never know what
happened to the engine before it was installed in my jeep. The original
engine was a 304 and has probably been melted down to make fence posts. I
do know that the terrible condition of the bearings (some of the cam
bearings had buildup on the inside, bearing surface) had a great deal to do
with the bad oil pressure. I'm thinking that I should replace the timing
cover just to be on the safe side and install the oil line kit from APP in
the block to help oil rear main. Does that seem to be the safe appraoch, in
your opinion?

Thanks,

Chip



"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4290E2D0.944287F3@***.net...
> Hi Chip,
> If the 360" is sitting in a Real Jeep, you can say with one hundred
> percent assurances that it needs a new timing chain cover. Especially
> when you tell us you have fifty instead of eighty pounds bypass cold
> Idling and zero hot, means the bypass valve was whacked and stuck fully
> open. You may not see the damage from out side, unless some paint is
> chipped away from the impact with the differential. Usually there's a
> combination of things that let that happen, first you must do a jump
> that'll fully compress your springs and be missing the bump stop on that
> side or have a weak engine mount on that side, but that is the reason
> most of AMC's V8 have gone to Chevy.
> I don't believe you need the distributor gear oiler modification,
> again that is the bypass problem only this time it's stuck shut, and the
> gear is not strong enough to twist the shaft in two. You may see the
> little piston valve at: http://www.drivetrain.com/jeepengineparts.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> WKJ wrote:
>>
>> When I get my block back from the shop, I'm thinking about making a
>> modification to it to assist in the engine oiling and oil pressure.
>> Granted, the condition of the bearings did not help the situation but, I
>> do
>> not want to have a freshly rebuilt engine and no oil pressure. Before I
>> pulled the thing, I had about 50lbs at startup and it went down to
>> (almost)
>> non-existant when it warmed up. I do not, however, know the accuracy of
>> the
>> gage. There are two issues here 1) oiling the rear and front of the
>> engine
>> and 2) oil pressure due to warn timing cover.
>>
>> I've found a few pieces of information on how to handle problem #1, but
>> it
>> is not sufficient. In case not everyone is up on this subject, I've
>> grabbed
>> this bit of information from a Q&A on the 'net.
>>
>> 11) Engine Oiling:
>> - AMC V8s tend to starve the rear crankshaft bearings and distributor
>> gears.
>> The solution is to put a TIG welding tip into a oil gallery plug.
>> TeamRush's
>> instructions follow: I drilled the left (odd) bank lifter gallery plug in
>> the front at an angle directed at the fuel pump eccentric and the
>> distributor gear. I threaded the plug, and screwed it back into the
>> block,
>> then screwed a 0.024" mig welder tip into it. When the oil pressure is
>> up,
>> it sprays a continuous stream of oil on the top crankshaft gear.
>>
>> If this is the thing to do, I'd like to see a few pictures of the
>> process,
>> if they exist.
>>
>> For the rear main, I found a kit from American Performance Products that
>> and
>> I'm going to inquire about to see if I need to have the block machined in
>> a
>> few locations before it get it back.
>>
>> For the pressure issue, it is recommended is to check the clearances on
>> the
>> timing cover/oil pump cover and either rebuild it or replace it. I've
>> rebuit the oil pump when I replaced the timing set, but some say that is
>> not
>> enough. Not sure what to do here. I can check the clearance on the one
>> that I have or should I just buy an aftermarket timing cover?
>>
>> Chip
>>
>> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet
>> News==----
>> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
>> Newsgroups
>> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
>> =----

 

Bill,
I do not really know the history of that engine. I'll never know what
happened to the engine before it was installed in my jeep. The original
engine was a 304 and has probably been melted down to make fence posts. I
do know that the terrible condition of the bearings (some of the cam
bearings had buildup on the inside, bearing surface) had a great deal to do
with the bad oil pressure. I'm thinking that I should replace the timing
cover just to be on the safe side and install the oil line kit from APP in
the block to help oil rear main. Does that seem to be the safe appraoch, in
your opinion?

Thanks,

Chip



"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4290E2D0.944287F3@***.net...
> Hi Chip,
> If the 360" is sitting in a Real Jeep, you can say with one hundred
> percent assurances that it needs a new timing chain cover. Especially
> when you tell us you have fifty instead of eighty pounds bypass cold
> Idling and zero hot, means the bypass valve was whacked and stuck fully
> open. You may not see the damage from out side, unless some paint is
> chipped away from the impact with the differential. Usually there's a
> combination of things that let that happen, first you must do a jump
> that'll fully compress your springs and be missing the bump stop on that
> side or have a weak engine mount on that side, but that is the reason
> most of AMC's V8 have gone to Chevy.
> I don't believe you need the distributor gear oiler modification,
> again that is the bypass problem only this time it's stuck shut, and the
> gear is not strong enough to twist the shaft in two. You may see the
> little piston valve at: http://www.drivetrain.com/jeepengineparts.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> WKJ wrote:
>>
>> When I get my block back from the shop, I'm thinking about making a
>> modification to it to assist in the engine oiling and oil pressure.
>> Granted, the condition of the bearings did not help the situation but, I
>> do
>> not want to have a freshly rebuilt engine and no oil pressure. Before I
>> pulled the thing, I had about 50lbs at startup and it went down to
>> (almost)
>> non-existant when it warmed up. I do not, however, know the accuracy of
>> the
>> gage. There are two issues here 1) oiling the rear and front of the
>> engine
>> and 2) oil pressure due to warn timing cover.
>>
>> I've found a few pieces of information on how to handle problem #1, but
>> it
>> is not sufficient. In case not everyone is up on this subject, I've
>> grabbed
>> this bit of information from a Q&A on the 'net.
>>
>> 11) Engine Oiling:
>> - AMC V8s tend to starve the rear crankshaft bearings and distributor
>> gears.
>> The solution is to put a TIG welding tip into a oil gallery plug.
>> TeamRush's
>> instructions follow: I drilled the left (odd) bank lifter gallery plug in
>> the front at an angle directed at the fuel pump eccentric and the
>> distributor gear. I threaded the plug, and screwed it back into the
>> block,
>> then screwed a 0.024" mig welder tip into it. When the oil pressure is
>> up,
>> it sprays a continuous stream of oil on the top crankshaft gear.
>>
>> If this is the thing to do, I'd like to see a few pictures of the
>> process,
>> if they exist.
>>
>> For the rear main, I found a kit from American Performance Products that
>> and
>> I'm going to inquire about to see if I need to have the block machined in
>> a
>> few locations before it get it back.
>>
>> For the pressure issue, it is recommended is to check the clearances on
>> the
>> timing cover/oil pump cover and either rebuild it or replace it. I've
>> rebuit the oil pump when I replaced the timing set, but some say that is
>> not
>> enough. Not sure what to do here. I can check the clearance on the one
>> that I have or should I just buy an aftermarket timing cover?
>>
>> Chip
>>
>> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet
>> News==----
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>> Newsgroups
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Hi Chip,
I not familiar with APP, nor any oil line kit for AMC's V8, would
you give an URL to check out.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Chip wrote:
>
> Bill,
> I do not really know the history of that engine. I'll never know what
> happened to the engine before it was installed in my jeep. The original
> engine was a 304 and has probably been melted down to make fence posts. I
> do know that the terrible condition of the bearings (some of the cam
> bearings had buildup on the inside, bearing surface) had a great deal to do
> with the bad oil pressure. I'm thinking that I should replace the timing
> cover just to be on the safe side and install the oil line kit from APP in
> the block to help oil rear main. Does that seem to be the safe appraoch, in
> your opinion?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chip
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:4290E2D0.944287F3@***.net...
> > Hi Chip,
> > If the 360" is sitting in a Real Jeep, you can say with one hundred
> > percent assurances that it needs a new timing chain cover. Especially
> > when you tell us you have fifty instead of eighty pounds bypass cold
> > Idling and zero hot, means the bypass valve was whacked and stuck fully
> > open. You may not see the damage from out side, unless some paint is
> > chipped away from the impact with the differential. Usually there's a
> > combination of things that let that happen, first you must do a jump
> > that'll fully compress your springs and be missing the bump stop on that
> > side or have a weak engine mount on that side, but that is the reason
> > most of AMC's V8 have gone to Chevy.
> > I don't believe you need the distributor gear oiler modification,
> > again that is the bypass problem only this time it's stuck shut, and the
> > gear is not strong enough to twist the shaft in two. You may see the
> > little piston valve at: http://www.drivetrain.com/jeepengineparts.html
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > WKJ wrote:
> >>
> >> When I get my block back from the shop, I'm thinking about making a
> >> modification to it to assist in the engine oiling and oil pressure.
> >> Granted, the condition of the bearings did not help the situation but, I
> >> do
> >> not want to have a freshly rebuilt engine and no oil pressure. Before I
> >> pulled the thing, I had about 50lbs at startup and it went down to
> >> (almost)
> >> non-existant when it warmed up. I do not, however, know the accuracy of
> >> the
> >> gage. There are two issues here 1) oiling the rear and front of the
> >> engine
> >> and 2) oil pressure due to warn timing cover.
> >>
> >> I've found a few pieces of information on how to handle problem #1, but
> >> it
> >> is not sufficient. In case not everyone is up on this subject, I've
> >> grabbed
> >> this bit of information from a Q&A on the 'net.
> >>
> >> 11) Engine Oiling:
> >> - AMC V8s tend to starve the rear crankshaft bearings and distributor
> >> gears.
> >> The solution is to put a TIG welding tip into a oil gallery plug.
> >> TeamRush's
> >> instructions follow: I drilled the left (odd) bank lifter gallery plug in
> >> the front at an angle directed at the fuel pump eccentric and the
> >> distributor gear. I threaded the plug, and screwed it back into the
> >> block,
> >> then screwed a 0.024" mig welder tip into it. When the oil pressure is
> >> up,
> >> it sprays a continuous stream of oil on the top crankshaft gear.
> >>
> >> If this is the thing to do, I'd like to see a few pictures of the
> >> process,
> >> if they exist.
> >>
> >> For the rear main, I found a kit from American Performance Products that
> >> and
> >> I'm going to inquire about to see if I need to have the block machined in
> >> a
> >> few locations before it get it back.
> >>
> >> For the pressure issue, it is recommended is to check the clearances on
> >> the
> >> timing cover/oil pump cover and either rebuild it or replace it. I've
> >> rebuit the oil pump when I replaced the timing set, but some say that is
> >> not
> >> enough. Not sure what to do here. I can check the clearance on the one
> >> that I have or should I just buy an aftermarket timing cover?
> >>
> >> Chip
> >>
> >> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet
> >> News==----
> >> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
> >> Newsgroups
> >> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
> >> =----