You might try a big impact on, it'll beat it on a lot tighter than
the 250 pounds, required torque:
http://members.tripod.com/torquespec...-86_drvtrn.htm Then
drill a new carter key way.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

stitzel wrote:
>
> Thanks for the advice. I wish I could go to a one piece axle right
> now, but I just spent $1,500 on a new boat motor and I don't think I
> could get away with putting $300 more into my jeep. Next time I take
> it apart I will go with a one piece but for now I am trying to stop
> the leak to prevent damage to rear differential.
>
> What can I do to prevent spin out now that I have disassembled the
> hub? Can I put lock tight on it? Can I tack it (with a weld)? Again, a
> permanent solution is ok, because next time I take apart I go one
> piece. Any other advice? So far I have no gasket sealant and hand pack
> the bearings with grease. Thanks Again!
>
> - Adam

 

People make this harder than it is. before you take it apart, mark the hub in
relation to the shaft. Use the large 3 arm puller to remove the hub. Rreplace
the seals or whatever and when you put it back together, return the hub back to
the marks....yes the splines will match up any way, but this way it goes right
back to the way it was. Get it tight and reinstall the tire (without the
centercap on the rim if so equiped) Use a 3 or 4 foot cheater bar (Hi-Lift Jack
handle) and with the weight of the Jeep holding the axle, tighten it to the 250
and then till the castle nut hole lines up and pin goes in. This works for me
and I haven't spun a hub right after reinstallment.

 

People make this harder than it is. before you take it apart, mark the hub in
relation to the shaft. Use the large 3 arm puller to remove the hub. Rreplace
the seals or whatever and when you put it back together, return the hub back to
the marks....yes the splines will match up any way, but this way it goes right
back to the way it was. Get it tight and reinstall the tire (without the
centercap on the rim if so equiped) Use a 3 or 4 foot cheater bar (Hi-Lift Jack
handle) and with the weight of the Jeep holding the axle, tighten it to the 250
and then till the castle nut hole lines up and pin goes in. This works for me
and I haven't spun a hub right after reinstallment.

 

People make this harder than it is. before you take it apart, mark the hub in
relation to the shaft. Use the large 3 arm puller to remove the hub. Rreplace
the seals or whatever and when you put it back together, return the hub back to
the marks....yes the splines will match up any way, but this way it goes right
back to the way it was. Get it tight and reinstall the tire (without the
centercap on the rim if so equiped) Use a 3 or 4 foot cheater bar (Hi-Lift Jack
handle) and with the weight of the Jeep holding the axle, tighten it to the 250
and then till the castle nut hole lines up and pin goes in. This works for me
and I haven't spun a hub right after reinstallment.

 

People make this harder than it is. before you take it apart, mark the hub in
relation to the shaft. Use the large 3 arm puller to remove the hub. Rreplace
the seals or whatever and when you put it back together, return the hub back to
the marks....yes the splines will match up any way, but this way it goes right
back to the way it was. Get it tight and reinstall the tire (without the
centercap on the rim if so equiped) Use a 3 or 4 foot cheater bar (Hi-Lift Jack
handle) and with the weight of the Jeep holding the axle, tighten it to the 250
and then till the castle nut hole lines up and pin goes in. This works for me
and I haven't spun a hub right after reinstallment.

 

As per instructions: http://www.----------.com/amc20hub.jpg Back
when I was in business we learned to replace hub. Many of the ones I
sent out with the old hubs came back, of course, back then in the
sixties the AMC wagons had nearly four hundred horse power in front of
them.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Onlyinajeepcj7 wrote:
>
> People make this harder than it is. before you take it apart, mark the hub in
> relation to the shaft. Use the large 3 arm puller to remove the hub. Rreplace
> the seals or whatever and when you put it back together, return the hub back to
> the marks....yes the splines will match up any way, but this way it goes right
> back to the way it was. Get it tight and reinstall the tire (without the
> centercap on the rim if so equiped) Use a 3 or 4 foot cheater bar (Hi-Lift Jack
> handle) and with the weight of the Jeep holding the axle, tighten it to the 250
> and then till the castle nut hole lines up and pin goes in. This works for me
> and I haven't spun a hub right after reinstallment.

 

As per instructions: http://www.----------.com/amc20hub.jpg Back
when I was in business we learned to replace hub. Many of the ones I
sent out with the old hubs came back, of course, back then in the
sixties the AMC wagons had nearly four hundred horse power in front of
them.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Onlyinajeepcj7 wrote:
>
> People make this harder than it is. before you take it apart, mark the hub in
> relation to the shaft. Use the large 3 arm puller to remove the hub. Rreplace
> the seals or whatever and when you put it back together, return the hub back to
> the marks....yes the splines will match up any way, but this way it goes right
> back to the way it was. Get it tight and reinstall the tire (without the
> centercap on the rim if so equiped) Use a 3 or 4 foot cheater bar (Hi-Lift Jack
> handle) and with the weight of the Jeep holding the axle, tighten it to the 250
> and then till the castle nut hole lines up and pin goes in. This works for me
> and I haven't spun a hub right after reinstallment.

 

As per instructions: http://www.----------.com/amc20hub.jpg Back
when I was in business we learned to replace hub. Many of the ones I
sent out with the old hubs came back, of course, back then in the
sixties the AMC wagons had nearly four hundred horse power in front of
them.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Onlyinajeepcj7 wrote:
>
> People make this harder than it is. before you take it apart, mark the hub in
> relation to the shaft. Use the large 3 arm puller to remove the hub. Rreplace
> the seals or whatever and when you put it back together, return the hub back to
> the marks....yes the splines will match up any way, but this way it goes right
> back to the way it was. Get it tight and reinstall the tire (without the
> centercap on the rim if so equiped) Use a 3 or 4 foot cheater bar (Hi-Lift Jack
> handle) and with the weight of the Jeep holding the axle, tighten it to the 250
> and then till the castle nut hole lines up and pin goes in. This works for me
> and I haven't spun a hub right after reinstallment.

 

As per instructions: http://www.----------.com/amc20hub.jpg Back
when I was in business we learned to replace hub. Many of the ones I
sent out with the old hubs came back, of course, back then in the
sixties the AMC wagons had nearly four hundred horse power in front of
them.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Onlyinajeepcj7 wrote:
>
> People make this harder than it is. before you take it apart, mark the hub in
> relation to the shaft. Use the large 3 arm puller to remove the hub. Rreplace
> the seals or whatever and when you put it back together, return the hub back to
> the marks....yes the splines will match up any way, but this way it goes right
> back to the way it was. Get it tight and reinstall the tire (without the
> centercap on the rim if so equiped) Use a 3 or 4 foot cheater bar (Hi-Lift Jack
> handle) and with the weight of the Jeep holding the axle, tighten it to the 250
> and then till the castle nut hole lines up and pin goes in. This works for me
> and I haven't spun a hub right after reinstallment.

 

Would it damage anything if I tack welded the hub to the axle? I would
love to replace the axle with a one piece, or even replace the hub,
but I promised the wife it was a cheap project (only the cost of
seals).

- Adam