Sounds like it needs some TLC.

Canadian Tire (CT) sells carb kits and most everything else for it.
They are not hard to put in. One trick with those electronic units is
to not take apart any adjustment parts unless you 'have' to to clean
them
or you know someone else has screwed them up.

The choke is an electric timer type that is a total POS. It opens by
time, not by how cold the engine is so they take a while to warm up on
cold mornings or you need to '3 foot' drive them. Heel toe on the gas
brake idea. The power for the choke comes from the oil pressure switch.

CT sells a manual choke kit for them. The 'heavy duty' one has all the
right parts to replace that manual hunk of junk. I love it. I can set
my fast idle for 1250 rpm with the appropriate choke and drive away
easily with no stalls.

The PCV systems are touchy. This is the cause of the oil in the filter
box. As far as I know you will 'always' have some of that if you use
the 400 series highways. I pretty much always get some spits after a
couple hours of 75-80 mph and my system is new with a new engine. It
just can't quite keep up.

First you need to verify the PCV rattles loose when shaken. Then trace
the PCV line to the back of the carb. There will be a real rubber 90
degree fitting back there that.... surprise.... melts when oil gets on
it so it goes soft and collapses. I know guys that have been suckered
into getting new engines by the Jeep shops because this fitting was
bad....

Then the PCV line leads to a solenoid thing with one line to the carb
base and one off to the charcoal canister that is a failed emissions
part that is best tossed into the trash and replaced with a normal T
fitting.

If the charcoal canister, which is the gas tank and carb float bowl vent
has a dirty air filter on the bottom, you will get odd surging as the
gas tank develops a vacuum on it and starves the engine for fuel. CT
sells the filter for about $2.00. They call it an emissions filter.
The first one is a bear to change. I needed a hammer and chisel on mine
to dig it out. The new ones just tuck in.

If the canister purge valve leaks, the idle will not be stable and oil
will blow into the air filter in quantities. To test this, at idle you
pinch the PCV line from the solenoid or T fitting behind the carb to the
canister closed. If the idle changes, the canister is dead or not
plumbed right. If this is going on, you can also get puffs from the two
holes in the cover bottom that lead to the upstream and downstream Cat
air injectors. I wouldn't worry about the odd puff there yet.

Parts... Well.... There are a few 'Jeep' shops around Toronto that
sometimes will sell you used parts and if they are in the right 'mood'
that day you might even get a decent price out of them, or they are
totally unreasonable ******** if they missed their morning coffee or got
up on the wrong side of the bed or the moon is full or....

Don't 'ever' 'ever' pay up front to any of them! They are 'forgetful'
as some on this group have found out.

You will need a new steel windshield frame. 'Glass is only good for a
full time topless Jeep or a full time hard top Jeep, it won't hold the
lift from a soft top or bikini, the top of the frame will pull off the
windshield glass.

There is a gent near Kingston that makes really nice fiberglass body
tubs and other parts. He has CJ7 one piece front clips and fenders and
hood and last I heard was going to do YJ ones as well. The body tubs
are the same for both.

All my factory parts like hard and soft doors and tops fit on the 'glass
tub really well. I even got my 'Laredo' chrome grill to fit in the one
piece front clip.

I love my 'glass body. It has stood up well to tree bashing, one roll
over and tons of hard wheeling. After 6 years, I need to do a couple
repairs to it that I hopefully will be in good enough shape by next
summer to attempt rather than having to pay someone to fix for me. I
cracked one door post and cracked the glued seam where the firewall
meets the floor when I tipped it over.

I need one of those stickers, except I want to put it on the gas tank
skid plate... ;-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Dan Hoskin wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I finally got my 90 YJ home. The guy I bought it from said that it is
> running really rough because of the carberetor needing some serious therapy,
> so it wound up binking out on me not to far from his place. The choke was
> closed tight, so I tied it open to get home and it ran smooth as can be.
> Now that I have had a few hours to look at it there are naturally a few
> questions. :)
>
> 1- What causes the air filter body to have about 3/16" of oily goo in the
> bottom of it?
> 2- With the air filter cover off, there is a 'puffing' of smoke coming up
> through the hose in the bottom of the air filter body. It may just be
> because it was -15 c today, should I be concerned?
> 3- Does anybody know where to get used parts in Ontario, Canada? My hood has
> a 'wrinkle' in it and I am looking for a replacement. Some other bits to.
>
> If the sun every comes out here I am going to drop a new set of plugs in and
> dig a bit deeper into it's overall health..... So far, so good though. It
> has some rust, like the windshield frame (of course). I am thinking of going
> to fiberglass replacement panels from someone like Quadratec, are there any
> other manufacturers of replacement panels?
>
> The frame is clean and solid and I was looking at the fiberglass bodies from
> Quadratec and was thinking it would be nice to have that clean a start for
> my Jeep project. Has anybody here done a full body replacement? Does anyone
> else make a good fiberglass body? Can I still use my factory hardtop with
> them?
>
> Well, I think that is more than enough questions for now, thanks for all the
> help.
>
> Dan Hoskin
>
> PS: I just ordered a windshield decal that is printed upside-down: "IF
> YOU CAN READ THIS, ROLL ME BACK OVER." I had to have it.......

 

In article <LraKf.3082$%14.121985@news20.bellglobal.com>,
Dan Hoskin <danhoskin@nomorespamsympatico.ca> wrote:
#1- What causes the air filter body to have about 3/16" of oily goo in the
#bottom of it?

Engine oil from the PVC valve?

/herb

 

In article <LraKf.3082$%14.121985@news20.bellglobal.com>,
Dan Hoskin <danhoskin@nomorespamsympatico.ca> wrote:
#1- What causes the air filter body to have about 3/16" of oily goo in the
#bottom of it?

Engine oil from the PVC valve?

/herb

 

In article <LraKf.3082$%14.121985@news20.bellglobal.com>,
Dan Hoskin <danhoskin@nomorespamsympatico.ca> wrote:
#1- What causes the air filter body to have about 3/16" of oily goo in the
#bottom of it?

Engine oil from the PVC valve?

/herb

 

In article <LraKf.3082$%14.121985@news20.bellglobal.com>,
Dan Hoskin <danhoskin@nomorespamsympatico.ca> wrote:
#1- What causes the air filter body to have about 3/16" of oily goo in the
#bottom of it?

Engine oil from the PVC valve?

/herb