adjusting doors
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: adjusting doors
I am just putting my hard doors on my 'glass body for the first time and
I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
doors fit perfect.
So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
square all along.
I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
times.
Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
thing once with this body on.
If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
was borderline for lining on the striker too?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
JimG wrote:
>
> I picked up a set of used steel half doors for my TJ. The passenger side
> door hits very low on the door latch. Needs adjusted if possible. Before I
> break the paint on the bolts, is there a way to adjust the door by the
> hinges?
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
> 4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
> 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
> Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
>
> 00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
> 4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
> 33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
> D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift
I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
doors fit perfect.
So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
square all along.
I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
times.
Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
thing once with this body on.
If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
was borderline for lining on the striker too?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
JimG wrote:
>
> I picked up a set of used steel half doors for my TJ. The passenger side
> door hits very low on the door latch. Needs adjusted if possible. Before I
> break the paint on the bolts, is there a way to adjust the door by the
> hinges?
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
> 4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
> 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
> Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
>
> 00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
> 4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
> 33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
> D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: adjusting doors
I am just putting my hard doors on my 'glass body for the first time and
I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
doors fit perfect.
So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
square all along.
I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
times.
Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
thing once with this body on.
If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
was borderline for lining on the striker too?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
JimG wrote:
>
> I picked up a set of used steel half doors for my TJ. The passenger side
> door hits very low on the door latch. Needs adjusted if possible. Before I
> break the paint on the bolts, is there a way to adjust the door by the
> hinges?
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
> 4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
> 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
> Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
>
> 00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
> 4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
> 33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
> D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift
I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
doors fit perfect.
So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
square all along.
I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
times.
Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
thing once with this body on.
If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
was borderline for lining on the striker too?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
JimG wrote:
>
> I picked up a set of used steel half doors for my TJ. The passenger side
> door hits very low on the door latch. Needs adjusted if possible. Before I
> break the paint on the bolts, is there a way to adjust the door by the
> hinges?
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
> 4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
> 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
> Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
>
> 00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
> 4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
> 33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
> D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: adjusting doors
Hi Mike,
The Factory Service Manual, reminds people, "When removing the door
or hinge DO NOT discard the plastic shims":
http://www.----------.com/tjdoor.pdf
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am just putting my hard doors on my 'glass body for the first time and
> I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
> doors fit perfect.
>
> So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
> that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
> going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
>
> My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
> square all along.
>
> I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
> to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
> the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
> much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
> first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
> crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
> times.
>
> Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
>
> Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
> doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
> thing once with this body on.
>
> If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
> wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
> can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
> the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
> has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
> be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
> was borderline for lining on the striker too?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
The Factory Service Manual, reminds people, "When removing the door
or hinge DO NOT discard the plastic shims":
http://www.----------.com/tjdoor.pdf
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am just putting my hard doors on my 'glass body for the first time and
> I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
> doors fit perfect.
>
> So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
> that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
> going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
>
> My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
> square all along.
>
> I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
> to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
> the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
> much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
> first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
> crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
> times.
>
> Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
>
> Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
> doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
> thing once with this body on.
>
> If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
> wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
> can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
> the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
> has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
> be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
> was borderline for lining on the striker too?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: adjusting doors
Hi Mike,
The Factory Service Manual, reminds people, "When removing the door
or hinge DO NOT discard the plastic shims":
http://www.----------.com/tjdoor.pdf
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am just putting my hard doors on my 'glass body for the first time and
> I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
> doors fit perfect.
>
> So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
> that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
> going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
>
> My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
> square all along.
>
> I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
> to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
> the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
> much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
> first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
> crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
> times.
>
> Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
>
> Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
> doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
> thing once with this body on.
>
> If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
> wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
> can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
> the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
> has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
> be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
> was borderline for lining on the striker too?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
The Factory Service Manual, reminds people, "When removing the door
or hinge DO NOT discard the plastic shims":
http://www.----------.com/tjdoor.pdf
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am just putting my hard doors on my 'glass body for the first time and
> I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
> doors fit perfect.
>
> So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
> that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
> going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
>
> My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
> square all along.
>
> I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
> to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
> the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
> much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
> first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
> crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
> times.
>
> Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
>
> Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
> doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
> thing once with this body on.
>
> If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
> wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
> can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
> the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
> has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
> be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
> was borderline for lining on the striker too?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: adjusting doors
Hi Mike,
The Factory Service Manual, reminds people, "When removing the door
or hinge DO NOT discard the plastic shims":
http://www.----------.com/tjdoor.pdf
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am just putting my hard doors on my 'glass body for the first time and
> I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
> doors fit perfect.
>
> So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
> that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
> going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
>
> My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
> square all along.
>
> I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
> to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
> the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
> much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
> first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
> crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
> times.
>
> Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
>
> Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
> doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
> thing once with this body on.
>
> If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
> wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
> can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
> the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
> has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
> be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
> was borderline for lining on the striker too?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
The Factory Service Manual, reminds people, "When removing the door
or hinge DO NOT discard the plastic shims":
http://www.----------.com/tjdoor.pdf
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am just putting my hard doors on my 'glass body for the first time and
> I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
> doors fit perfect.
>
> So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
> that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
> going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
>
> My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
> square all along.
>
> I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
> to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
> the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
> much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
> first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
> crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
> times.
>
> Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
>
> Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
> doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
> thing once with this body on.
>
> If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
> wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
> can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
> the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
> has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
> be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
> was borderline for lining on the striker too?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: adjusting doors
That would likely be my 'missing' spacer. One steel washer does the
trick on both sides.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> The Factory Service Manual, reminds people, "When removing the door
> or hinge DO NOT discard the plastic shims":
> http://www.----------.com/tjdoor.pdf
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > I am just putting my hard doors on my 'glass body for the first time and
> > I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
> > doors fit perfect.
> >
> > So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
> > that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
> > going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
> >
> > My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
> > square all along.
> >
> > I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
> > to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
> > the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
> > much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
> > first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
> > crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
> > times.
> >
> > Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
> >
> > Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
> > doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
> > thing once with this body on.
> >
> > If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
> > wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
> > can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
> > the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
> > has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
> > be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
> > was borderline for lining on the striker too?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
trick on both sides.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> The Factory Service Manual, reminds people, "When removing the door
> or hinge DO NOT discard the plastic shims":
> http://www.----------.com/tjdoor.pdf
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > I am just putting my hard doors on my 'glass body for the first time and
> > I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
> > doors fit perfect.
> >
> > So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
> > that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
> > going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
> >
> > My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
> > square all along.
> >
> > I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
> > to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
> > the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
> > much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
> > first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
> > crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
> > times.
> >
> > Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
> >
> > Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
> > doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
> > thing once with this body on.
> >
> > If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
> > wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
> > can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
> > the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
> > has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
> > be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
> > was borderline for lining on the striker too?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: adjusting doors
That would likely be my 'missing' spacer. One steel washer does the
trick on both sides.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> The Factory Service Manual, reminds people, "When removing the door
> or hinge DO NOT discard the plastic shims":
> http://www.----------.com/tjdoor.pdf
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > I am just putting my hard doors on my 'glass body for the first time and
> > I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
> > doors fit perfect.
> >
> > So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
> > that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
> > going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
> >
> > My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
> > square all along.
> >
> > I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
> > to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
> > the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
> > much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
> > first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
> > crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
> > times.
> >
> > Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
> >
> > Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
> > doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
> > thing once with this body on.
> >
> > If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
> > wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
> > can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
> > the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
> > has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
> > be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
> > was borderline for lining on the striker too?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
trick on both sides.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> The Factory Service Manual, reminds people, "When removing the door
> or hinge DO NOT discard the plastic shims":
> http://www.----------.com/tjdoor.pdf
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > I am just putting my hard doors on my 'glass body for the first time and
> > I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
> > doors fit perfect.
> >
> > So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
> > that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
> > going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
> >
> > My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
> > square all along.
> >
> > I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
> > to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
> > the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
> > much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
> > first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
> > crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
> > times.
> >
> > Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
> >
> > Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
> > doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
> > thing once with this body on.
> >
> > If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
> > wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
> > can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
> > the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
> > has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
> > be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
> > was borderline for lining on the striker too?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: adjusting doors
That would likely be my 'missing' spacer. One steel washer does the
trick on both sides.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> The Factory Service Manual, reminds people, "When removing the door
> or hinge DO NOT discard the plastic shims":
> http://www.----------.com/tjdoor.pdf
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > I am just putting my hard doors on my 'glass body for the first time and
> > I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
> > doors fit perfect.
> >
> > So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
> > that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
> > going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
> >
> > My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
> > square all along.
> >
> > I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
> > to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
> > the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
> > much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
> > first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
> > crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
> > times.
> >
> > Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
> >
> > Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
> > doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
> > thing once with this body on.
> >
> > If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
> > wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
> > can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
> > the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
> > has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
> > be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
> > was borderline for lining on the striker too?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
trick on both sides.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> The Factory Service Manual, reminds people, "When removing the door
> or hinge DO NOT discard the plastic shims":
> http://www.----------.com/tjdoor.pdf
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > I am just putting my hard doors on my 'glass body for the first time and
> > I have an alignment issue with the door being slightly too low. My soft
> > doors fit perfect.
> >
> > So I added 2 - 3/8" washers to the hinge pin last night to see where
> > that lines it. It raised the rear by the latch close to 1/2". I am
> > going to drop it down to one washer today and see where that lines it.
> >
> > My clearance need is only at the bottom edge and it needs to be moved up
> > square all along.
> >
> > I have visions of having to take a torch to the hinges on the door side
> > to burn off the paint so I can get a torx in there properly to loosen
> > the bottom one for the latch alignment if the single washer is too
> > much. You 'will' strip the torx bolts if you don't clean the paint out
> > first. The paint makes the next smallest torx fit and then the paint
> > crushes allowing it to strip out. Been there, seen it, way too many
> > times.
> >
> > Man I am 'really' impressed with my 'Canadian made' fiberglass body!
> >
> > Everything fits like a glove. The hard top fits on perfect, the hard
> > doors fit the opening 'perfectly' for shape and I have even rolled the
> > thing once with this body on.
> >
> > If your door fits the opening, you don't say yes or no, then I sure
> > wouldn't touch the hinges. The door striker post is adjustable. You
> > can just use a torx wrench and likely a helper vise grip to loosen it
> > the first time, then set it higher and tighten it back up. That striker
> > has a fair bit of adjustment in it. This takes about 30 seconds and can
> > be done easily when swapping doors or if you look maybe the other door
> > was borderline for lining on the striker too?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: adjusting doors
Doors? Me? Real Jeeps haven't got doors, Bill. You of all people should know
that.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:419824A2.DD479E56@***.net...
> Do you use steel doors on your Civilian Jeep?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >
> > I would not attempt to adjust the hinge plates on the Jeep as this will
> > cause the other doors you have to not fit properly.
> >
> > I would hang the new doors, then loosen the hinges ON THE DOORS and move
the
> > new door(s) so it(they) hang properly, and close well.
> >
> > The latch on the door can also be moved to align with the striker on the
> > tub.
that.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:419824A2.DD479E56@***.net...
> Do you use steel doors on your Civilian Jeep?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >
> > I would not attempt to adjust the hinge plates on the Jeep as this will
> > cause the other doors you have to not fit properly.
> >
> > I would hang the new doors, then loosen the hinges ON THE DOORS and move
the
> > new door(s) so it(they) hang properly, and close well.
> >
> > The latch on the door can also be moved to align with the striker on the
> > tub.
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: adjusting doors
Doors? Me? Real Jeeps haven't got doors, Bill. You of all people should know
that.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:419824A2.DD479E56@***.net...
> Do you use steel doors on your Civilian Jeep?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >
> > I would not attempt to adjust the hinge plates on the Jeep as this will
> > cause the other doors you have to not fit properly.
> >
> > I would hang the new doors, then loosen the hinges ON THE DOORS and move
the
> > new door(s) so it(they) hang properly, and close well.
> >
> > The latch on the door can also be moved to align with the striker on the
> > tub.
that.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:419824A2.DD479E56@***.net...
> Do you use steel doors on your Civilian Jeep?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >
> > I would not attempt to adjust the hinge plates on the Jeep as this will
> > cause the other doors you have to not fit properly.
> >
> > I would hang the new doors, then loosen the hinges ON THE DOORS and move
the
> > new door(s) so it(they) hang properly, and close well.
> >
> > The latch on the door can also be moved to align with the striker on the
> > tub.