The accessories staying on says the ignition switch is dead or way out
of adjustment.

I sure would check that first, chasing symptoms is a waste of time.

12.65 volts only means your battery is fairly new.....

You need to use amps with the meter in series with the battery cable.
You should be drawing way less than one amp.

You can then pull fuses until you stop drawing, but...

To test if the ignition switch is bad, just unplug it and see if the amp
draw goes away.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

RJO wrote:
>
> Thank you all. I did get a meter and was able to check the battery and
> fuses yesterday. I even got down to the ignition switch but ran out of
> time before I could test it. I think it's probably a ground somewhere
> because, even with all the fuses pulled and all accessories off, the
> battery was putting out a full 12.65 volts. tonight I'll check the
> engine block and the two others you mentioned. If that doesn't do it,
> I may go ahead and replace the igniion switch, as I am not sure how to
> test it.
>
> mic canic <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message news:<407955CD.A95202C3@cac.net>...
> > you have some sort of battery drain. you can check the ing. switch if
> > it's bad
> > it's under the colum covers .not at the base. the saginaw steering colums
> > were dropped in 94
> > i would be checking out all the grounds real good when grounds are loose
> > or poor, elcectric relays make alot of noise and battery power looks for
> > grounds backtracking thru wires looking for the ground points and things
> > get dim
> > the main ones are on the engine block by the dipstick
> > the dash harness has some on the lt side under the kick panel and one is
> > under the drivers seat
> > you can check for a draw using a test lite and pulling fuses
> > RJO wrote:
> >
> > > Hey everybody! I bought a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport last November, with
> > > 106,000 miles on it. I've since added 10,000 miles. Two seperate but
> > > possibly related problems that started right after I bought it have me
> > > flummoxed.
> > >
> > > The first is that when I turn the ignition key off, all the
> > > accessories stay on: the fan, radio, wipers, etc. I quickly learned to
> > > turn everything off before parking the car.
> > >
> > > The second showed up a few weeks later. When the car is parked for
> > > several hours, the battery (which is a new die-hard) drains enough so
> > > that the motor will turn over but not start. If it's parked for a
> > > longer time, it has no juice at all. Sometimes, after using the power
> > > locks to open the car, I can hear a rapid clicking behind the dash to
> > > the left of the main guage display. If I use a jump starter it will
> > > start, and after I drive it for a while, it will start again just
> > > fine. So it doesn't seem to be the charging system.
> > >
> > > I've talked to a mechanic who says it might be the coil or fuel pump,
> > > but that doesn't sound right.
> > >
> > > Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, since I have to do this
> > > myself. I don't have the cash to take it to the garage.
> > >
> > > Thanks!

 

The accessories staying on says the ignition switch is dead or way out
of adjustment.

I sure would check that first, chasing symptoms is a waste of time.

12.65 volts only means your battery is fairly new.....

You need to use amps with the meter in series with the battery cable.
You should be drawing way less than one amp.

You can then pull fuses until you stop drawing, but...

To test if the ignition switch is bad, just unplug it and see if the amp
draw goes away.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

RJO wrote:
>
> Thank you all. I did get a meter and was able to check the battery and
> fuses yesterday. I even got down to the ignition switch but ran out of
> time before I could test it. I think it's probably a ground somewhere
> because, even with all the fuses pulled and all accessories off, the
> battery was putting out a full 12.65 volts. tonight I'll check the
> engine block and the two others you mentioned. If that doesn't do it,
> I may go ahead and replace the igniion switch, as I am not sure how to
> test it.
>
> mic canic <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message news:<407955CD.A95202C3@cac.net>...
> > you have some sort of battery drain. you can check the ing. switch if
> > it's bad
> > it's under the colum covers .not at the base. the saginaw steering colums
> > were dropped in 94
> > i would be checking out all the grounds real good when grounds are loose
> > or poor, elcectric relays make alot of noise and battery power looks for
> > grounds backtracking thru wires looking for the ground points and things
> > get dim
> > the main ones are on the engine block by the dipstick
> > the dash harness has some on the lt side under the kick panel and one is
> > under the drivers seat
> > you can check for a draw using a test lite and pulling fuses
> > RJO wrote:
> >
> > > Hey everybody! I bought a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport last November, with
> > > 106,000 miles on it. I've since added 10,000 miles. Two seperate but
> > > possibly related problems that started right after I bought it have me
> > > flummoxed.
> > >
> > > The first is that when I turn the ignition key off, all the
> > > accessories stay on: the fan, radio, wipers, etc. I quickly learned to
> > > turn everything off before parking the car.
> > >
> > > The second showed up a few weeks later. When the car is parked for
> > > several hours, the battery (which is a new die-hard) drains enough so
> > > that the motor will turn over but not start. If it's parked for a
> > > longer time, it has no juice at all. Sometimes, after using the power
> > > locks to open the car, I can hear a rapid clicking behind the dash to
> > > the left of the main guage display. If I use a jump starter it will
> > > start, and after I drive it for a while, it will start again just
> > > fine. So it doesn't seem to be the charging system.
> > >
> > > I've talked to a mechanic who says it might be the coil or fuel pump,
> > > but that doesn't sound right.
> > >
> > > Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, since I have to do this
> > > myself. I don't have the cash to take it to the garage.
> > >
> > > Thanks!

 

The accessories staying on says the ignition switch is dead or way out
of adjustment.

I sure would check that first, chasing symptoms is a waste of time.

12.65 volts only means your battery is fairly new.....

You need to use amps with the meter in series with the battery cable.
You should be drawing way less than one amp.

You can then pull fuses until you stop drawing, but...

To test if the ignition switch is bad, just unplug it and see if the amp
draw goes away.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

RJO wrote:
>
> Thank you all. I did get a meter and was able to check the battery and
> fuses yesterday. I even got down to the ignition switch but ran out of
> time before I could test it. I think it's probably a ground somewhere
> because, even with all the fuses pulled and all accessories off, the
> battery was putting out a full 12.65 volts. tonight I'll check the
> engine block and the two others you mentioned. If that doesn't do it,
> I may go ahead and replace the igniion switch, as I am not sure how to
> test it.
>
> mic canic <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message news:<407955CD.A95202C3@cac.net>...
> > you have some sort of battery drain. you can check the ing. switch if
> > it's bad
> > it's under the colum covers .not at the base. the saginaw steering colums
> > were dropped in 94
> > i would be checking out all the grounds real good when grounds are loose
> > or poor, elcectric relays make alot of noise and battery power looks for
> > grounds backtracking thru wires looking for the ground points and things
> > get dim
> > the main ones are on the engine block by the dipstick
> > the dash harness has some on the lt side under the kick panel and one is
> > under the drivers seat
> > you can check for a draw using a test lite and pulling fuses
> > RJO wrote:
> >
> > > Hey everybody! I bought a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport last November, with
> > > 106,000 miles on it. I've since added 10,000 miles. Two seperate but
> > > possibly related problems that started right after I bought it have me
> > > flummoxed.
> > >
> > > The first is that when I turn the ignition key off, all the
> > > accessories stay on: the fan, radio, wipers, etc. I quickly learned to
> > > turn everything off before parking the car.
> > >
> > > The second showed up a few weeks later. When the car is parked for
> > > several hours, the battery (which is a new die-hard) drains enough so
> > > that the motor will turn over but not start. If it's parked for a
> > > longer time, it has no juice at all. Sometimes, after using the power
> > > locks to open the car, I can hear a rapid clicking behind the dash to
> > > the left of the main guage display. If I use a jump starter it will
> > > start, and after I drive it for a while, it will start again just
> > > fine. So it doesn't seem to be the charging system.
> > >
> > > I've talked to a mechanic who says it might be the coil or fuel pump,
> > > but that doesn't sound right.
> > >
> > > Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, since I have to do this
> > > myself. I don't have the cash to take it to the garage.
> > >
> > > Thanks!

 

instead of a meter try using a low impedence test lite and disconnect the ground
side of the battery anduse the lite in between and the battery

RJO wrote:

> Thank you all. I did get a meter and was able to check the battery and
> fuses yesterday. I even got down to the ignition switch but ran out of
> time before I could test it. I think it's probably a ground somewhere
> because, even with all the fuses pulled and all accessories off, the
> battery was putting out a full 12.65 volts. tonight I'll check the
> engine block and the two others you mentioned. If that doesn't do it,
> I may go ahead and replace the igniion switch, as I am not sure how to
> test it.
>
> mic canic <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message news:<407955CD.A95202C3@cac.net>...
> > you have some sort of battery drain. you can check the ing. switch if
> > it's bad
> > it's under the colum covers .not at the base. the saginaw steering colums
> > were dropped in 94
> > i would be checking out all the grounds real good when grounds are loose
> > or poor, elcectric relays make alot of noise and battery power looks for
> > grounds backtracking thru wires looking for the ground points and things
> > get dim
> > the main ones are on the engine block by the dipstick
> > the dash harness has some on the lt side under the kick panel and one is
> > under the drivers seat
> > you can check for a draw using a test lite and pulling fuses
> > RJO wrote:
> >
> > > Hey everybody! I bought a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport last November, with
> > > 106,000 miles on it. I've since added 10,000 miles. Two seperate but
> > > possibly related problems that started right after I bought it have me
> > > flummoxed.
> > >
> > > The first is that when I turn the ignition key off, all the
> > > accessories stay on: the fan, radio, wipers, etc. I quickly learned to
> > > turn everything off before parking the car.
> > >
> > > The second showed up a few weeks later. When the car is parked for
> > > several hours, the battery (which is a new die-hard) drains enough so
> > > that the motor will turn over but not start. If it's parked for a
> > > longer time, it has no juice at all. Sometimes, after using the power
> > > locks to open the car, I can hear a rapid clicking behind the dash to
> > > the left of the main guage display. If I use a jump starter it will
> > > start, and after I drive it for a while, it will start again just
> > > fine. So it doesn't seem to be the charging system.
> > >
> > > I've talked to a mechanic who says it might be the coil or fuel pump,
> > > but that doesn't sound right.
> > >
> > > Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, since I have to do this
> > > myself. I don't have the cash to take it to the garage.
> > >
> > > Thanks!

 

instead of a meter try using a low impedence test lite and disconnect the ground
side of the battery anduse the lite in between and the battery

RJO wrote:

> Thank you all. I did get a meter and was able to check the battery and
> fuses yesterday. I even got down to the ignition switch but ran out of
> time before I could test it. I think it's probably a ground somewhere
> because, even with all the fuses pulled and all accessories off, the
> battery was putting out a full 12.65 volts. tonight I'll check the
> engine block and the two others you mentioned. If that doesn't do it,
> I may go ahead and replace the igniion switch, as I am not sure how to
> test it.
>
> mic canic <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message news:<407955CD.A95202C3@cac.net>...
> > you have some sort of battery drain. you can check the ing. switch if
> > it's bad
> > it's under the colum covers .not at the base. the saginaw steering colums
> > were dropped in 94
> > i would be checking out all the grounds real good when grounds are loose
> > or poor, elcectric relays make alot of noise and battery power looks for
> > grounds backtracking thru wires looking for the ground points and things
> > get dim
> > the main ones are on the engine block by the dipstick
> > the dash harness has some on the lt side under the kick panel and one is
> > under the drivers seat
> > you can check for a draw using a test lite and pulling fuses
> > RJO wrote:
> >
> > > Hey everybody! I bought a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport last November, with
> > > 106,000 miles on it. I've since added 10,000 miles. Two seperate but
> > > possibly related problems that started right after I bought it have me
> > > flummoxed.
> > >
> > > The first is that when I turn the ignition key off, all the
> > > accessories stay on: the fan, radio, wipers, etc. I quickly learned to
> > > turn everything off before parking the car.
> > >
> > > The second showed up a few weeks later. When the car is parked for
> > > several hours, the battery (which is a new die-hard) drains enough so
> > > that the motor will turn over but not start. If it's parked for a
> > > longer time, it has no juice at all. Sometimes, after using the power
> > > locks to open the car, I can hear a rapid clicking behind the dash to
> > > the left of the main guage display. If I use a jump starter it will
> > > start, and after I drive it for a while, it will start again just
> > > fine. So it doesn't seem to be the charging system.
> > >
> > > I've talked to a mechanic who says it might be the coil or fuel pump,
> > > but that doesn't sound right.
> > >
> > > Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, since I have to do this
> > > myself. I don't have the cash to take it to the garage.
> > >
> > > Thanks!

 

instead of a meter try using a low impedence test lite and disconnect the ground
side of the battery anduse the lite in between and the battery

RJO wrote:

> Thank you all. I did get a meter and was able to check the battery and
> fuses yesterday. I even got down to the ignition switch but ran out of
> time before I could test it. I think it's probably a ground somewhere
> because, even with all the fuses pulled and all accessories off, the
> battery was putting out a full 12.65 volts. tonight I'll check the
> engine block and the two others you mentioned. If that doesn't do it,
> I may go ahead and replace the igniion switch, as I am not sure how to
> test it.
>
> mic canic <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message news:<407955CD.A95202C3@cac.net>...
> > you have some sort of battery drain. you can check the ing. switch if
> > it's bad
> > it's under the colum covers .not at the base. the saginaw steering colums
> > were dropped in 94
> > i would be checking out all the grounds real good when grounds are loose
> > or poor, elcectric relays make alot of noise and battery power looks for
> > grounds backtracking thru wires looking for the ground points and things
> > get dim
> > the main ones are on the engine block by the dipstick
> > the dash harness has some on the lt side under the kick panel and one is
> > under the drivers seat
> > you can check for a draw using a test lite and pulling fuses
> > RJO wrote:
> >
> > > Hey everybody! I bought a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport last November, with
> > > 106,000 miles on it. I've since added 10,000 miles. Two seperate but
> > > possibly related problems that started right after I bought it have me
> > > flummoxed.
> > >
> > > The first is that when I turn the ignition key off, all the
> > > accessories stay on: the fan, radio, wipers, etc. I quickly learned to
> > > turn everything off before parking the car.
> > >
> > > The second showed up a few weeks later. When the car is parked for
> > > several hours, the battery (which is a new die-hard) drains enough so
> > > that the motor will turn over but not start. If it's parked for a
> > > longer time, it has no juice at all. Sometimes, after using the power
> > > locks to open the car, I can hear a rapid clicking behind the dash to
> > > the left of the main guage display. If I use a jump starter it will
> > > start, and after I drive it for a while, it will start again just
> > > fine. So it doesn't seem to be the charging system.
> > >
> > > I've talked to a mechanic who says it might be the coil or fuel pump,
> > > but that doesn't sound right.
> > >
> > > Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, since I have to do this
> > > myself. I don't have the cash to take it to the garage.
> > >
> > > Thanks!

 

instead of a meter try using a low impedence test lite and disconnect the ground
side of the battery anduse the lite in between and the battery

RJO wrote:

> Thank you all. I did get a meter and was able to check the battery and
> fuses yesterday. I even got down to the ignition switch but ran out of
> time before I could test it. I think it's probably a ground somewhere
> because, even with all the fuses pulled and all accessories off, the
> battery was putting out a full 12.65 volts. tonight I'll check the
> engine block and the two others you mentioned. If that doesn't do it,
> I may go ahead and replace the igniion switch, as I am not sure how to
> test it.
>
> mic canic <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message news:<407955CD.A95202C3@cac.net>...
> > you have some sort of battery drain. you can check the ing. switch if
> > it's bad
> > it's under the colum covers .not at the base. the saginaw steering colums
> > were dropped in 94
> > i would be checking out all the grounds real good when grounds are loose
> > or poor, elcectric relays make alot of noise and battery power looks for
> > grounds backtracking thru wires looking for the ground points and things
> > get dim
> > the main ones are on the engine block by the dipstick
> > the dash harness has some on the lt side under the kick panel and one is
> > under the drivers seat
> > you can check for a draw using a test lite and pulling fuses
> > RJO wrote:
> >
> > > Hey everybody! I bought a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport last November, with
> > > 106,000 miles on it. I've since added 10,000 miles. Two seperate but
> > > possibly related problems that started right after I bought it have me
> > > flummoxed.
> > >
> > > The first is that when I turn the ignition key off, all the
> > > accessories stay on: the fan, radio, wipers, etc. I quickly learned to
> > > turn everything off before parking the car.
> > >
> > > The second showed up a few weeks later. When the car is parked for
> > > several hours, the battery (which is a new die-hard) drains enough so
> > > that the motor will turn over but not start. If it's parked for a
> > > longer time, it has no juice at all. Sometimes, after using the power
> > > locks to open the car, I can hear a rapid clicking behind the dash to
> > > the left of the main guage display. If I use a jump starter it will
> > > start, and after I drive it for a while, it will start again just
> > > fine. So it doesn't seem to be the charging system.
> > >
> > > I've talked to a mechanic who says it might be the coil or fuel pump,
> > > but that doesn't sound right.
> > >
> > > Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, since I have to do this
> > > myself. I don't have the cash to take it to the garage.
> > >
> > > Thanks!

 

Oh, boy. I've no idea where my head went when I wrote the below, but on
my way to a job I realized what a dunderhead I'd been. If his accessories
are staying on with the switch off, and if they all go off when he unplugs
the column connector, _of_ _course_ the switch is part of the problem.

And don't bother fussing with the radio, that's just a symptom, not a
problem. Oy.


On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Lee Ayrton wrote:

> Isn't there a connector for the steering column just under the dash? Pull
> it apart and see if your current load drops to zero. That in itself won't
> tell you that the switch is bad or not, but it will tell you if whatever
> the problem is is on the key-switched side of the system or not.
>
> Oh, and I'm not clear on how you have that meter set up, but if it were me
> I'd have it in series between one pole of the battery and its cable (so
> the meter is actually part of the circuit), with the meter set for "amps".
> With the meter set to "volts" and a 100+AH battery behind it you could be
> seeing the miniscule current draw for memory modules or clocks but you'll
> never see the whopping drop when you pulled the radio fuse and never know
> that what you were chasing wasn't part of the problem.
>
> Radio. Hmmm. It seems that when folks pop in here and ask about curious
> electrical faults the radio is part of the symptoms (stuff like "my tail
> lights won't work but when I step on the brake the radio comes on.") Just
> for giggles see if you can pull the cable connector for the radio and see
> if it makes any difference. I don't know where you'd go from there, but
> still...
>
>
> On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, RJO wrote:
>
> > Thank you all. I did get a meter and was able to check the battery and
> > fuses yesterday. I even got down to the ignition switch but ran out of
> > time before I could test it. I think it's probably a ground somewhere
> > because, even with all the fuses pulled and all accessories off, the
> > battery was putting out a full 12.65 volts. tonight I'll check the
> > engine block and the two others you mentioned. If that doesn't do it,
> > I may go ahead and replace the igniion switch, as I am not sure how to
> > test it.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > mic canic <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message news:<407955CD.A95202C3@cac.net>...
> > > you have some sort of battery drain. you can check the ing. switch if
> > > it's bad
> > > it's under the colum covers .not at the base. the saginaw steering colums
> > > were dropped in 94
> > > i would be checking out all the grounds real good when grounds are loose
> > > or poor, elcectric relays make alot of noise and battery power looks for
> > > grounds backtracking thru wires looking for the ground points and things
> > > get dim
> > > the main ones are on the engine block by the dipstick
> > > the dash harness has some on the lt side under the kick panel and one is
> > > under the drivers seat
> > > you can check for a draw using a test lite and pulling fuses
> > > RJO wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hey everybody! I bought a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport last November, with
> > > > 106,000 miles on it. I've since added 10,000 miles. Two seperate but
> > > > possibly related problems that started right after I bought it have me
> > > > flummoxed.
> > > >
> > > > The first is that when I turn the ignition key off, all the
> > > > accessories stay on: the fan, radio, wipers, etc. I quickly learned to
> > > > turn everything off before parking the car.
> > > >
> > > > The second showed up a few weeks later. When the car is parked for
> > > > several hours, the battery (which is a new die-hard) drains enough so
> > > > that the motor will turn over but not start. If it's parked for a
> > > > longer time, it has no juice at all. Sometimes, after using the power
> > > > locks to open the car, I can hear a rapid clicking behind the dash to
> > > > the left of the main guage display. If I use a jump starter it will
> > > > start, and after I drive it for a while, it will start again just
> > > > fine. So it doesn't seem to be the charging system.
> > > >
> > > > I've talked to a mechanic who says it might be the coil or fuel pump,
> > > > but that doesn't sound right.
> > > >
> > > > Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, since I have to do this
> > > > myself. I don't have the cash to take it to the garage.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks!
> >
>

 

Oh, boy. I've no idea where my head went when I wrote the below, but on
my way to a job I realized what a dunderhead I'd been. If his accessories
are staying on with the switch off, and if they all go off when he unplugs
the column connector, _of_ _course_ the switch is part of the problem.

And don't bother fussing with the radio, that's just a symptom, not a
problem. Oy.


On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Lee Ayrton wrote:

> Isn't there a connector for the steering column just under the dash? Pull
> it apart and see if your current load drops to zero. That in itself won't
> tell you that the switch is bad or not, but it will tell you if whatever
> the problem is is on the key-switched side of the system or not.
>
> Oh, and I'm not clear on how you have that meter set up, but if it were me
> I'd have it in series between one pole of the battery and its cable (so
> the meter is actually part of the circuit), with the meter set for "amps".
> With the meter set to "volts" and a 100+AH battery behind it you could be
> seeing the miniscule current draw for memory modules or clocks but you'll
> never see the whopping drop when you pulled the radio fuse and never know
> that what you were chasing wasn't part of the problem.
>
> Radio. Hmmm. It seems that when folks pop in here and ask about curious
> electrical faults the radio is part of the symptoms (stuff like "my tail
> lights won't work but when I step on the brake the radio comes on.") Just
> for giggles see if you can pull the cable connector for the radio and see
> if it makes any difference. I don't know where you'd go from there, but
> still...
>
>
> On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, RJO wrote:
>
> > Thank you all. I did get a meter and was able to check the battery and
> > fuses yesterday. I even got down to the ignition switch but ran out of
> > time before I could test it. I think it's probably a ground somewhere
> > because, even with all the fuses pulled and all accessories off, the
> > battery was putting out a full 12.65 volts. tonight I'll check the
> > engine block and the two others you mentioned. If that doesn't do it,
> > I may go ahead and replace the igniion switch, as I am not sure how to
> > test it.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > mic canic <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message news:<407955CD.A95202C3@cac.net>...
> > > you have some sort of battery drain. you can check the ing. switch if
> > > it's bad
> > > it's under the colum covers .not at the base. the saginaw steering colums
> > > were dropped in 94
> > > i would be checking out all the grounds real good when grounds are loose
> > > or poor, elcectric relays make alot of noise and battery power looks for
> > > grounds backtracking thru wires looking for the ground points and things
> > > get dim
> > > the main ones are on the engine block by the dipstick
> > > the dash harness has some on the lt side under the kick panel and one is
> > > under the drivers seat
> > > you can check for a draw using a test lite and pulling fuses
> > > RJO wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hey everybody! I bought a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport last November, with
> > > > 106,000 miles on it. I've since added 10,000 miles. Two seperate but
> > > > possibly related problems that started right after I bought it have me
> > > > flummoxed.
> > > >
> > > > The first is that when I turn the ignition key off, all the
> > > > accessories stay on: the fan, radio, wipers, etc. I quickly learned to
> > > > turn everything off before parking the car.
> > > >
> > > > The second showed up a few weeks later. When the car is parked for
> > > > several hours, the battery (which is a new die-hard) drains enough so
> > > > that the motor will turn over but not start. If it's parked for a
> > > > longer time, it has no juice at all. Sometimes, after using the power
> > > > locks to open the car, I can hear a rapid clicking behind the dash to
> > > > the left of the main guage display. If I use a jump starter it will
> > > > start, and after I drive it for a while, it will start again just
> > > > fine. So it doesn't seem to be the charging system.
> > > >
> > > > I've talked to a mechanic who says it might be the coil or fuel pump,
> > > > but that doesn't sound right.
> > > >
> > > > Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, since I have to do this
> > > > myself. I don't have the cash to take it to the garage.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks!
> >
>

 

Oh, boy. I've no idea where my head went when I wrote the below, but on
my way to a job I realized what a dunderhead I'd been. If his accessories
are staying on with the switch off, and if they all go off when he unplugs
the column connector, _of_ _course_ the switch is part of the problem.

And don't bother fussing with the radio, that's just a symptom, not a
problem. Oy.


On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Lee Ayrton wrote:

> Isn't there a connector for the steering column just under the dash? Pull
> it apart and see if your current load drops to zero. That in itself won't
> tell you that the switch is bad or not, but it will tell you if whatever
> the problem is is on the key-switched side of the system or not.
>
> Oh, and I'm not clear on how you have that meter set up, but if it were me
> I'd have it in series between one pole of the battery and its cable (so
> the meter is actually part of the circuit), with the meter set for "amps".
> With the meter set to "volts" and a 100+AH battery behind it you could be
> seeing the miniscule current draw for memory modules or clocks but you'll
> never see the whopping drop when you pulled the radio fuse and never know
> that what you were chasing wasn't part of the problem.
>
> Radio. Hmmm. It seems that when folks pop in here and ask about curious
> electrical faults the radio is part of the symptoms (stuff like "my tail
> lights won't work but when I step on the brake the radio comes on.") Just
> for giggles see if you can pull the cable connector for the radio and see
> if it makes any difference. I don't know where you'd go from there, but
> still...
>
>
> On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, RJO wrote:
>
> > Thank you all. I did get a meter and was able to check the battery and
> > fuses yesterday. I even got down to the ignition switch but ran out of
> > time before I could test it. I think it's probably a ground somewhere
> > because, even with all the fuses pulled and all accessories off, the
> > battery was putting out a full 12.65 volts. tonight I'll check the
> > engine block and the two others you mentioned. If that doesn't do it,
> > I may go ahead and replace the igniion switch, as I am not sure how to
> > test it.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > mic canic <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message news:<407955CD.A95202C3@cac.net>...
> > > you have some sort of battery drain. you can check the ing. switch if
> > > it's bad
> > > it's under the colum covers .not at the base. the saginaw steering colums
> > > were dropped in 94
> > > i would be checking out all the grounds real good when grounds are loose
> > > or poor, elcectric relays make alot of noise and battery power looks for
> > > grounds backtracking thru wires looking for the ground points and things
> > > get dim
> > > the main ones are on the engine block by the dipstick
> > > the dash harness has some on the lt side under the kick panel and one is
> > > under the drivers seat
> > > you can check for a draw using a test lite and pulling fuses
> > > RJO wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hey everybody! I bought a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport last November, with
> > > > 106,000 miles on it. I've since added 10,000 miles. Two seperate but
> > > > possibly related problems that started right after I bought it have me
> > > > flummoxed.
> > > >
> > > > The first is that when I turn the ignition key off, all the
> > > > accessories stay on: the fan, radio, wipers, etc. I quickly learned to
> > > > turn everything off before parking the car.
> > > >
> > > > The second showed up a few weeks later. When the car is parked for
> > > > several hours, the battery (which is a new die-hard) drains enough so
> > > > that the motor will turn over but not start. If it's parked for a
> > > > longer time, it has no juice at all. Sometimes, after using the power
> > > > locks to open the car, I can hear a rapid clicking behind the dash to
> > > > the left of the main guage display. If I use a jump starter it will
> > > > start, and after I drive it for a while, it will start again just
> > > > fine. So it doesn't seem to be the charging system.
> > > >
> > > > I've talked to a mechanic who says it might be the coil or fuel pump,
> > > > but that doesn't sound right.
> > > >
> > > > Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, since I have to do this
> > > > myself. I don't have the cash to take it to the garage.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks!
> >
>