I too replaced the crank position sensor when my 97 was acting like
that, had replaced everything else...that helped the problem...


Kevin

 

I too replaced the crank position sensor when my 97 was acting like
that, had replaced everything else...that helped the problem...


Kevin

 

Old Crow wrote:

> On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 00:01:39 -0500, Dexter <dexstoltz@bigfoot.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>>This may just be winter gas, but I'm going to ask the question:
>>
>>99 TJ SE, 80k miles, K&N Intake Tube is the only "upgrade" to the Jeep.
>>New Rotor/Cap last week. Plugs seem fine.
>>
>>As I take off driving, sometimes it hiccups anywhere between 1500 and
>>2000 RPM. Never above 2000. Also will happen if I lug down from low
>>RPMs in a higher gear.
>>
>>I know I can downshift and avoid it, but it's there, it's very slightly
>>annoying, and maybe someone else has run across the prob. I plan on
>>checking the wires tomorrow after work.
>>
>>Thanks in advance!
>
>
> If it was mine, and it only cut out occasionally, under a load, I'd
> change the plug wires.
> --
> Old Crow
> '82 Shovelhead FLTC 92" 'Pearl'
> '95 Jeep Wrangler YJ
> TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51, SPUNGER#2


Before changing the plug wires there is a great old way to check them.
Find a dark place on a dark night, turn out all the lights, pop the hood
and leave the engine running. After your eyes get a little time to
adjust look hard at the engine where the wires are. If your wires are
good all you are going to see is a lot of dark, if they are bad you are
going to see sparks along the wires and jumping from them to ground.

I've used that trick on both Jeeps with high energy ignitions and
Studebakers with conventional ones, and it's worked great.

Jeff DeWitt

 

Old Crow wrote:

> On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 00:01:39 -0500, Dexter <dexstoltz@bigfoot.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>>This may just be winter gas, but I'm going to ask the question:
>>
>>99 TJ SE, 80k miles, K&N Intake Tube is the only "upgrade" to the Jeep.
>>New Rotor/Cap last week. Plugs seem fine.
>>
>>As I take off driving, sometimes it hiccups anywhere between 1500 and
>>2000 RPM. Never above 2000. Also will happen if I lug down from low
>>RPMs in a higher gear.
>>
>>I know I can downshift and avoid it, but it's there, it's very slightly
>>annoying, and maybe someone else has run across the prob. I plan on
>>checking the wires tomorrow after work.
>>
>>Thanks in advance!
>
>
> If it was mine, and it only cut out occasionally, under a load, I'd
> change the plug wires.
> --
> Old Crow
> '82 Shovelhead FLTC 92" 'Pearl'
> '95 Jeep Wrangler YJ
> TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51, SPUNGER#2


Before changing the plug wires there is a great old way to check them.
Find a dark place on a dark night, turn out all the lights, pop the hood
and leave the engine running. After your eyes get a little time to
adjust look hard at the engine where the wires are. If your wires are
good all you are going to see is a lot of dark, if they are bad you are
going to see sparks along the wires and jumping from them to ground.

I've used that trick on both Jeeps with high energy ignitions and
Studebakers with conventional ones, and it's worked great.

Jeff DeWitt

 

Old Crow wrote:

> On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 00:01:39 -0500, Dexter <dexstoltz@bigfoot.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>>This may just be winter gas, but I'm going to ask the question:
>>
>>99 TJ SE, 80k miles, K&N Intake Tube is the only "upgrade" to the Jeep.
>>New Rotor/Cap last week. Plugs seem fine.
>>
>>As I take off driving, sometimes it hiccups anywhere between 1500 and
>>2000 RPM. Never above 2000. Also will happen if I lug down from low
>>RPMs in a higher gear.
>>
>>I know I can downshift and avoid it, but it's there, it's very slightly
>>annoying, and maybe someone else has run across the prob. I plan on
>>checking the wires tomorrow after work.
>>
>>Thanks in advance!
>
>
> If it was mine, and it only cut out occasionally, under a load, I'd
> change the plug wires.
> --
> Old Crow
> '82 Shovelhead FLTC 92" 'Pearl'
> '95 Jeep Wrangler YJ
> TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51, SPUNGER#2


Before changing the plug wires there is a great old way to check them.
Find a dark place on a dark night, turn out all the lights, pop the hood
and leave the engine running. After your eyes get a little time to
adjust look hard at the engine where the wires are. If your wires are
good all you are going to see is a lot of dark, if they are bad you are
going to see sparks along the wires and jumping from them to ground.

I've used that trick on both Jeeps with high energy ignitions and
Studebakers with conventional ones, and it's worked great.

Jeff DeWitt

 

Jeffrey DeWitt did pass the time by typing:

> Before changing the plug wires there is a great old way to check them.
> Find a dark place on a dark night, turn out all the lights, pop the hood
> and leave the engine running. After your eyes get a little time to
> adjust look hard at the engine where the wires are. If your wires are
> good all you are going to see is a lot of dark, if they are bad you are
> going to see sparks along the wires and jumping from them to ground.
>
> I've used that trick on both Jeeps with high energy ignitions and
> Studebakers with conventional ones, and it's worked great.

Build what I have.

Go to RadioShack (or similar electronics parts store) and pick up a
110 VAC Neon lamp of some flavor. It has to be neon. Take a stick
(dowell, etc) and mount the lamp to it. Run one lead to the end
and secure it to a nail or some other metal doodad you can point
around. (I used an old cup hook screwed into the end of a dowell)
Secure the other end to a bit of wire and an alligator clip.

Now just ground the clip to the frame and run the metal tip around
the spark system. If the lamp lights you found a crack.

Or you could just feel around with your hands. If there is a crack
you will find it. Especially if your other hand is resting nicely
on the radiator brace.


--
DougW

 

Jeffrey DeWitt did pass the time by typing:

> Before changing the plug wires there is a great old way to check them.
> Find a dark place on a dark night, turn out all the lights, pop the hood
> and leave the engine running. After your eyes get a little time to
> adjust look hard at the engine where the wires are. If your wires are
> good all you are going to see is a lot of dark, if they are bad you are
> going to see sparks along the wires and jumping from them to ground.
>
> I've used that trick on both Jeeps with high energy ignitions and
> Studebakers with conventional ones, and it's worked great.

Build what I have.

Go to RadioShack (or similar electronics parts store) and pick up a
110 VAC Neon lamp of some flavor. It has to be neon. Take a stick
(dowell, etc) and mount the lamp to it. Run one lead to the end
and secure it to a nail or some other metal doodad you can point
around. (I used an old cup hook screwed into the end of a dowell)
Secure the other end to a bit of wire and an alligator clip.

Now just ground the clip to the frame and run the metal tip around
the spark system. If the lamp lights you found a crack.

Or you could just feel around with your hands. If there is a crack
you will find it. Especially if your other hand is resting nicely
on the radiator brace.


--
DougW

 

Jeffrey DeWitt did pass the time by typing:

> Before changing the plug wires there is a great old way to check them.
> Find a dark place on a dark night, turn out all the lights, pop the hood
> and leave the engine running. After your eyes get a little time to
> adjust look hard at the engine where the wires are. If your wires are
> good all you are going to see is a lot of dark, if they are bad you are
> going to see sparks along the wires and jumping from them to ground.
>
> I've used that trick on both Jeeps with high energy ignitions and
> Studebakers with conventional ones, and it's worked great.

Build what I have.

Go to RadioShack (or similar electronics parts store) and pick up a
110 VAC Neon lamp of some flavor. It has to be neon. Take a stick
(dowell, etc) and mount the lamp to it. Run one lead to the end
and secure it to a nail or some other metal doodad you can point
around. (I used an old cup hook screwed into the end of a dowell)
Secure the other end to a bit of wire and an alligator clip.

Now just ground the clip to the frame and run the metal tip around
the spark system. If the lamp lights you found a crack.

Or you could just feel around with your hands. If there is a crack
you will find it. Especially if your other hand is resting nicely
on the radiator brace.


--
DougW

 

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:27:54 GMT, Jeffrey DeWitt
<JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote:

>Old Crow wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 00:01:39 -0500, Dexter <dexstoltz@bigfoot.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>This may just be winter gas, but I'm going to ask the question:
>>>
>>>99 TJ SE, 80k miles, K&N Intake Tube is the only "upgrade" to the Jeep.
>>>New Rotor/Cap last week. Plugs seem fine.
>>>
>>>As I take off driving, sometimes it hiccups anywhere between 1500 and
>>>2000 RPM. Never above 2000. Also will happen if I lug down from low
>>>RPMs in a higher gear.
>>>
>>>I know I can downshift and avoid it, but it's there, it's very slightly
>>>annoying, and maybe someone else has run across the prob. I plan on
>>>checking the wires tomorrow after work.
>>>
>>>Thanks in advance!
>>
>>
>> If it was mine, and it only cut out occasionally, under a load, I'd
>> change the plug wires.
>> --
>> Old Crow
>> '82 Shovelhead FLTC 92" 'Pearl'
>> '95 Jeep Wrangler YJ
>> TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51, SPUNGER#2
>
>
>Before changing the plug wires there is a great old way to check them.
>Find a dark place on a dark night, turn out all the lights, pop the hood
>and leave the engine running. After your eyes get a little time to
>adjust look hard at the engine where the wires are. If your wires are
>good all you are going to see is a lot of dark, if they are bad you are
>going to see sparks along the wires and jumping from them to ground.
>
>I've used that trick on both Jeeps with high energy ignitions and
>Studebakers with conventional ones, and it's worked great.
>
>Jeff DeWitt

I always like to check them during the day by grasping the wires and
running my hand along each wire. Wetting your hand prior to doing this
will ensure that you will get good results.

 

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:27:54 GMT, Jeffrey DeWitt
<JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote:

>Old Crow wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 00:01:39 -0500, Dexter <dexstoltz@bigfoot.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>This may just be winter gas, but I'm going to ask the question:
>>>
>>>99 TJ SE, 80k miles, K&N Intake Tube is the only "upgrade" to the Jeep.
>>>New Rotor/Cap last week. Plugs seem fine.
>>>
>>>As I take off driving, sometimes it hiccups anywhere between 1500 and
>>>2000 RPM. Never above 2000. Also will happen if I lug down from low
>>>RPMs in a higher gear.
>>>
>>>I know I can downshift and avoid it, but it's there, it's very slightly
>>>annoying, and maybe someone else has run across the prob. I plan on
>>>checking the wires tomorrow after work.
>>>
>>>Thanks in advance!
>>
>>
>> If it was mine, and it only cut out occasionally, under a load, I'd
>> change the plug wires.
>> --
>> Old Crow
>> '82 Shovelhead FLTC 92" 'Pearl'
>> '95 Jeep Wrangler YJ
>> TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51, SPUNGER#2
>
>
>Before changing the plug wires there is a great old way to check them.
>Find a dark place on a dark night, turn out all the lights, pop the hood
>and leave the engine running. After your eyes get a little time to
>adjust look hard at the engine where the wires are. If your wires are
>good all you are going to see is a lot of dark, if they are bad you are
>going to see sparks along the wires and jumping from them to ground.
>
>I've used that trick on both Jeeps with high energy ignitions and
>Studebakers with conventional ones, and it's worked great.
>
>Jeff DeWitt

I always like to check them during the day by grasping the wires and
running my hand along each wire. Wetting your hand prior to doing this
will ensure that you will get good results.