99 JGC Laredo 4.0L I6 stalling
12-23-2007, 11:15 AM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 JGC Laredo 4.0L I6 stalling
His symptoms of revving high then stalling point directly to a bad
connection on the TPS. This is exactly how they act.
Why are you reposting SPAM? Not once, but twice now.
Mike
philthy wrote:
> clean carbon off the throttle plate and throttle body and then clean battery
> termianls too
> poor battery connections casue all sorts of stalling issues in cars newer than
> 2000's
>
> "shaqtopz@aol.com" wrote:
>
>> On Dec 18, 11:43 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>> lost_dogma wrote:
>>>> I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L I6, over 130,000 miles,
>>>> Selec-Trac 4WD...
>>>> Earlier in the month we had snow and record rainfall which cause
>>>> flooding and an awful lot of standing water in areas where I drive.
>>>> To keep a long story short, I'm guessing that something that shouldn't
>>>> have gotten wet must have because the engine check light came on and
>>>> the problems started occurring: The trouble codes that came up were:
>>>> P1596 (Speed control switch), and P0123 (Throttle position sensor).
>>>> After starting the engine, the rpms would race up past 2k then come
>>>> back down to normal. When slowing down or stopping it would stall and
>>>> die. I could easily start it again, but having this happen in traffic
>>>> is a pain and possibly dangerous. Needing the car, I took it to a
>>>> local shop and they were able to fix/clear the P1596 trouble code by
>>>> cleaning/drying the connections to the sensors, but the P0123 code
>>>> remains even after they installed a new TPS. So it still stalls
>>>> intermittenly and always at the most incovienent time. I also noticed
>>>> that as certain times around 20-25 mph it would hiccup for lack of a
>>>> better word. This would happend when I needed speed/power.
>>>> Before my Jeep ran like a champ, no probems whatsoever...
>>>> now it needs a little help to get back to its old self...
>>>> Any information, suggestions, possible fixes would highly be
>>>> appreciated!
>>>> Thank you,
>>>> Nelson
>>> You are still describing a TPS connection failure with the racing and
>>> stalling. The new part only cleaned 'half' the connection.
>>>
>>> Spraycontact cleaneror even WD40 is called for like Will mentions.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
>>> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com- Hide quoted text -
>>>
<spam snipped>
connection on the TPS. This is exactly how they act.
Why are you reposting SPAM? Not once, but twice now.
Mike
philthy wrote:
> clean carbon off the throttle plate and throttle body and then clean battery
> termianls too
> poor battery connections casue all sorts of stalling issues in cars newer than
> 2000's
>
> "shaqtopz@aol.com" wrote:
>
>> On Dec 18, 11:43 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>> lost_dogma wrote:
>>>> I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L I6, over 130,000 miles,
>>>> Selec-Trac 4WD...
>>>> Earlier in the month we had snow and record rainfall which cause
>>>> flooding and an awful lot of standing water in areas where I drive.
>>>> To keep a long story short, I'm guessing that something that shouldn't
>>>> have gotten wet must have because the engine check light came on and
>>>> the problems started occurring: The trouble codes that came up were:
>>>> P1596 (Speed control switch), and P0123 (Throttle position sensor).
>>>> After starting the engine, the rpms would race up past 2k then come
>>>> back down to normal. When slowing down or stopping it would stall and
>>>> die. I could easily start it again, but having this happen in traffic
>>>> is a pain and possibly dangerous. Needing the car, I took it to a
>>>> local shop and they were able to fix/clear the P1596 trouble code by
>>>> cleaning/drying the connections to the sensors, but the P0123 code
>>>> remains even after they installed a new TPS. So it still stalls
>>>> intermittenly and always at the most incovienent time. I also noticed
>>>> that as certain times around 20-25 mph it would hiccup for lack of a
>>>> better word. This would happend when I needed speed/power.
>>>> Before my Jeep ran like a champ, no probems whatsoever...
>>>> now it needs a little help to get back to its old self...
>>>> Any information, suggestions, possible fixes would highly be
>>>> appreciated!
>>>> Thank you,
>>>> Nelson
>>> You are still describing a TPS connection failure with the racing and
>>> stalling. The new part only cleaned 'half' the connection.
>>>
>>> Spraycontact cleaneror even WD40 is called for like Will mentions.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
>>> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com- Hide quoted text -
>>>
<spam snipped>
12-24-2007, 08:58 AM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 JGC Laredo 4.0L I6 stalling- Spam warning!
no spamming mike
just making sure the other readers of this group get the correct info not just what
you thunk is the right info
i work on more vehilces in a half day than you do all year and i find some of your
posts on cj7 are top notch but those days are fading away it is a new century and
you are stuck in the last one
Mike Romain wrote:
> I was responding to a scumbucket Spammer and I was talking about the
> 'electrical connection' on the sensors, not the sensors themselves.
>
> As well I did 'pointedly' state that a proper electronic contact cleaner
> was the best way to go as did Will whom I quoted as having the proper
> idea by saying 'In a pinch, WD40 will do a fair job'.
>
> Maybe you should read the thread before butting in on a scumbucket's
> post or are you his alter ego?
>
> Is that your SPAM name?
>
> Mike
>
> philthy wrote:
> > mike you beloved wd gets into the plastics of the sensors and degrades the
> > plastic (both are made from petro chemicals)actully causing more damge to
> > sensors in the long run and in the case of the oring the tps sensor needs to
> > seal from a vacumm leak will cause the oring to fall apart i see it alot
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> >> shaqtopz@aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >>> Yikes, not WD-40 - good temporatary fix, but could make it worse in
> >>> awhile. Use deoxIT on all connections, works EVERY time. <SPAM SNIPPED>
> >> Listen you freaking SPAMMER, WD40 is called 'water displacement fluid #
> >> 40. It is 'designed to be used on electrical connections and 'WORKS
> >> VERY WELL' for this.
> >>
> >> Your deoxit is Spam ---- that will not fix the problem. WD40 is better!
> >>
> >> WD40 at least adds a seal that your SPAM junk doesn't.
> >>
> >> I would 'NEVER" buy Spammed snake oil, Your product only deserves a BOYCOTT!
> >>
> >> Keep Spamming my posts all over Usenet and I 'WILL' start a Boycott
> >> campaign.
> >>
> >> A 'real' electronic contact cleaner is called for with dielectric grease
> >> on the seal skirts to do a proper job.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> >> Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
> >
just making sure the other readers of this group get the correct info not just what
you thunk is the right info
i work on more vehilces in a half day than you do all year and i find some of your
posts on cj7 are top notch but those days are fading away it is a new century and
you are stuck in the last one
Mike Romain wrote:
> I was responding to a scumbucket Spammer and I was talking about the
> 'electrical connection' on the sensors, not the sensors themselves.
>
> As well I did 'pointedly' state that a proper electronic contact cleaner
> was the best way to go as did Will whom I quoted as having the proper
> idea by saying 'In a pinch, WD40 will do a fair job'.
>
> Maybe you should read the thread before butting in on a scumbucket's
> post or are you his alter ego?
>
> Is that your SPAM name?
>
> Mike
>
> philthy wrote:
> > mike you beloved wd gets into the plastics of the sensors and degrades the
> > plastic (both are made from petro chemicals)actully causing more damge to
> > sensors in the long run and in the case of the oring the tps sensor needs to
> > seal from a vacumm leak will cause the oring to fall apart i see it alot
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> >> shaqtopz@aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >>> Yikes, not WD-40 - good temporatary fix, but could make it worse in
> >>> awhile. Use deoxIT on all connections, works EVERY time. <SPAM SNIPPED>
> >> Listen you freaking SPAMMER, WD40 is called 'water displacement fluid #
> >> 40. It is 'designed to be used on electrical connections and 'WORKS
> >> VERY WELL' for this.
> >>
> >> Your deoxit is Spam ---- that will not fix the problem. WD40 is better!
> >>
> >> WD40 at least adds a seal that your SPAM junk doesn't.
> >>
> >> I would 'NEVER" buy Spammed snake oil, Your product only deserves a BOYCOTT!
> >>
> >> Keep Spamming my posts all over Usenet and I 'WILL' start a Boycott
> >> campaign.
> >>
> >> A 'real' electronic contact cleaner is called for with dielectric grease
> >> on the seal skirts to do a proper job.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> >> Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
> >
12-24-2007, 08:58 AM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 JGC Laredo 4.0L I6 stalling- Spam warning!
no spamming mike
just making sure the other readers of this group get the correct info not just what
you thunk is the right info
i work on more vehilces in a half day than you do all year and i find some of your
posts on cj7 are top notch but those days are fading away it is a new century and
you are stuck in the last one
Mike Romain wrote:
> I was responding to a scumbucket Spammer and I was talking about the
> 'electrical connection' on the sensors, not the sensors themselves.
>
> As well I did 'pointedly' state that a proper electronic contact cleaner
> was the best way to go as did Will whom I quoted as having the proper
> idea by saying 'In a pinch, WD40 will do a fair job'.
>
> Maybe you should read the thread before butting in on a scumbucket's
> post or are you his alter ego?
>
> Is that your SPAM name?
>
> Mike
>
> philthy wrote:
> > mike you beloved wd gets into the plastics of the sensors and degrades the
> > plastic (both are made from petro chemicals)actully causing more damge to
> > sensors in the long run and in the case of the oring the tps sensor needs to
> > seal from a vacumm leak will cause the oring to fall apart i see it alot
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> >> shaqtopz@aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >>> Yikes, not WD-40 - good temporatary fix, but could make it worse in
> >>> awhile. Use deoxIT on all connections, works EVERY time. <SPAM SNIPPED>
> >> Listen you freaking SPAMMER, WD40 is called 'water displacement fluid #
> >> 40. It is 'designed to be used on electrical connections and 'WORKS
> >> VERY WELL' for this.
> >>
> >> Your deoxit is Spam ---- that will not fix the problem. WD40 is better!
> >>
> >> WD40 at least adds a seal that your SPAM junk doesn't.
> >>
> >> I would 'NEVER" buy Spammed snake oil, Your product only deserves a BOYCOTT!
> >>
> >> Keep Spamming my posts all over Usenet and I 'WILL' start a Boycott
> >> campaign.
> >>
> >> A 'real' electronic contact cleaner is called for with dielectric grease
> >> on the seal skirts to do a proper job.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> >> Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
> >
just making sure the other readers of this group get the correct info not just what
you thunk is the right info
i work on more vehilces in a half day than you do all year and i find some of your
posts on cj7 are top notch but those days are fading away it is a new century and
you are stuck in the last one
Mike Romain wrote:
> I was responding to a scumbucket Spammer and I was talking about the
> 'electrical connection' on the sensors, not the sensors themselves.
>
> As well I did 'pointedly' state that a proper electronic contact cleaner
> was the best way to go as did Will whom I quoted as having the proper
> idea by saying 'In a pinch, WD40 will do a fair job'.
>
> Maybe you should read the thread before butting in on a scumbucket's
> post or are you his alter ego?
>
> Is that your SPAM name?
>
> Mike
>
> philthy wrote:
> > mike you beloved wd gets into the plastics of the sensors and degrades the
> > plastic (both are made from petro chemicals)actully causing more damge to
> > sensors in the long run and in the case of the oring the tps sensor needs to
> > seal from a vacumm leak will cause the oring to fall apart i see it alot
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> >> shaqtopz@aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >>> Yikes, not WD-40 - good temporatary fix, but could make it worse in
> >>> awhile. Use deoxIT on all connections, works EVERY time. <SPAM SNIPPED>
> >> Listen you freaking SPAMMER, WD40 is called 'water displacement fluid #
> >> 40. It is 'designed to be used on electrical connections and 'WORKS
> >> VERY WELL' for this.
> >>
> >> Your deoxit is Spam ---- that will not fix the problem. WD40 is better!
> >>
> >> WD40 at least adds a seal that your SPAM junk doesn't.
> >>
> >> I would 'NEVER" buy Spammed snake oil, Your product only deserves a BOYCOTT!
> >>
> >> Keep Spamming my posts all over Usenet and I 'WILL' start a Boycott
> >> campaign.
> >>
> >> A 'real' electronic contact cleaner is called for with dielectric grease
> >> on the seal skirts to do a proper job.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> >> Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
> >
12-24-2007, 09:04 AM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 JGC Laredo 4.0L I6 stalling
mike you have the theory of the operation of a t.p sensor mixed up
it in no way controls idle( unless stuck)95 and newer) it just reports it's
findings(hence a potentiometer) to a pcm and then that pcm decides what to do and
then tells the iac what to do
Mike Romain wrote:
> His symptoms of revving high then stalling point directly to a bad
> connection on the TPS. This is exactly how they act.
>
> Why are you reposting SPAM? Not once, but twice now.
>
> Mike
>
> philthy wrote:
> > clean carbon off the throttle plate and throttle body and then clean battery
> > termianls too
> > poor battery connections casue all sorts of stalling issues in cars newer than
> > 2000's
> >
> > "shaqtopz@aol.com" wrote:
> >
> >> On Dec 18, 11:43 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>> lost_dogma wrote:
> >>>> I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L I6, over 130,000 miles,
> >>>> Selec-Trac 4WD...
> >>>> Earlier in the month we had snow and record rainfall which cause
> >>>> flooding and an awful lot of standing water in areas where I drive.
> >>>> To keep a long story short, I'm guessing that something that shouldn't
> >>>> have gotten wet must have because the engine check light came on and
> >>>> the problems started occurring: The trouble codes that came up were:
> >>>> P1596 (Speed control switch), and P0123 (Throttle position sensor).
> >>>> After starting the engine, the rpms would race up past 2k then come
> >>>> back down to normal. When slowing down or stopping it would stall and
> >>>> die. I could easily start it again, but having this happen in traffic
> >>>> is a pain and possibly dangerous. Needing the car, I took it to a
> >>>> local shop and they were able to fix/clear the P1596 trouble code by
> >>>> cleaning/drying the connections to the sensors, but the P0123 code
> >>>> remains even after they installed a new TPS. So it still stalls
> >>>> intermittenly and always at the most incovienent time. I also noticed
> >>>> that as certain times around 20-25 mph it would hiccup for lack of a
> >>>> better word. This would happend when I needed speed/power.
> >>>> Before my Jeep ran like a champ, no probems whatsoever...
> >>>> now it needs a little help to get back to its old self...
> >>>> Any information, suggestions, possible fixes would highly be
> >>>> appreciated!
> >>>> Thank you,
> >>>> Nelson
> >>> You are still describing a TPS connection failure with the racing and
> >>> stalling. The new part only cleaned 'half' the connection.
> >>>
> >>> Spraycontact cleaneror even WD40 is called for like Will mentions.
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> >>> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com- Hide quoted text -
> >>>
> <spam snipped>
it in no way controls idle( unless stuck)95 and newer) it just reports it's
findings(hence a potentiometer) to a pcm and then that pcm decides what to do and
then tells the iac what to do
Mike Romain wrote:
> His symptoms of revving high then stalling point directly to a bad
> connection on the TPS. This is exactly how they act.
>
> Why are you reposting SPAM? Not once, but twice now.
>
> Mike
>
> philthy wrote:
> > clean carbon off the throttle plate and throttle body and then clean battery
> > termianls too
> > poor battery connections casue all sorts of stalling issues in cars newer than
> > 2000's
> >
> > "shaqtopz@aol.com" wrote:
> >
> >> On Dec 18, 11:43 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>> lost_dogma wrote:
> >>>> I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L I6, over 130,000 miles,
> >>>> Selec-Trac 4WD...
> >>>> Earlier in the month we had snow and record rainfall which cause
> >>>> flooding and an awful lot of standing water in areas where I drive.
> >>>> To keep a long story short, I'm guessing that something that shouldn't
> >>>> have gotten wet must have because the engine check light came on and
> >>>> the problems started occurring: The trouble codes that came up were:
> >>>> P1596 (Speed control switch), and P0123 (Throttle position sensor).
> >>>> After starting the engine, the rpms would race up past 2k then come
> >>>> back down to normal. When slowing down or stopping it would stall and
> >>>> die. I could easily start it again, but having this happen in traffic
> >>>> is a pain and possibly dangerous. Needing the car, I took it to a
> >>>> local shop and they were able to fix/clear the P1596 trouble code by
> >>>> cleaning/drying the connections to the sensors, but the P0123 code
> >>>> remains even after they installed a new TPS. So it still stalls
> >>>> intermittenly and always at the most incovienent time. I also noticed
> >>>> that as certain times around 20-25 mph it would hiccup for lack of a
> >>>> better word. This would happend when I needed speed/power.
> >>>> Before my Jeep ran like a champ, no probems whatsoever...
> >>>> now it needs a little help to get back to its old self...
> >>>> Any information, suggestions, possible fixes would highly be
> >>>> appreciated!
> >>>> Thank you,
> >>>> Nelson
> >>> You are still describing a TPS connection failure with the racing and
> >>> stalling. The new part only cleaned 'half' the connection.
> >>>
> >>> Spraycontact cleaneror even WD40 is called for like Will mentions.
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> >>> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com- Hide quoted text -
> >>>
> <spam snipped>
12-24-2007, 09:04 AM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 JGC Laredo 4.0L I6 stalling
mike you have the theory of the operation of a t.p sensor mixed up
it in no way controls idle( unless stuck)95 and newer) it just reports it's
findings(hence a potentiometer) to a pcm and then that pcm decides what to do and
then tells the iac what to do
Mike Romain wrote:
> His symptoms of revving high then stalling point directly to a bad
> connection on the TPS. This is exactly how they act.
>
> Why are you reposting SPAM? Not once, but twice now.
>
> Mike
>
> philthy wrote:
> > clean carbon off the throttle plate and throttle body and then clean battery
> > termianls too
> > poor battery connections casue all sorts of stalling issues in cars newer than
> > 2000's
> >
> > "shaqtopz@aol.com" wrote:
> >
> >> On Dec 18, 11:43 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>> lost_dogma wrote:
> >>>> I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L I6, over 130,000 miles,
> >>>> Selec-Trac 4WD...
> >>>> Earlier in the month we had snow and record rainfall which cause
> >>>> flooding and an awful lot of standing water in areas where I drive.
> >>>> To keep a long story short, I'm guessing that something that shouldn't
> >>>> have gotten wet must have because the engine check light came on and
> >>>> the problems started occurring: The trouble codes that came up were:
> >>>> P1596 (Speed control switch), and P0123 (Throttle position sensor).
> >>>> After starting the engine, the rpms would race up past 2k then come
> >>>> back down to normal. When slowing down or stopping it would stall and
> >>>> die. I could easily start it again, but having this happen in traffic
> >>>> is a pain and possibly dangerous. Needing the car, I took it to a
> >>>> local shop and they were able to fix/clear the P1596 trouble code by
> >>>> cleaning/drying the connections to the sensors, but the P0123 code
> >>>> remains even after they installed a new TPS. So it still stalls
> >>>> intermittenly and always at the most incovienent time. I also noticed
> >>>> that as certain times around 20-25 mph it would hiccup for lack of a
> >>>> better word. This would happend when I needed speed/power.
> >>>> Before my Jeep ran like a champ, no probems whatsoever...
> >>>> now it needs a little help to get back to its old self...
> >>>> Any information, suggestions, possible fixes would highly be
> >>>> appreciated!
> >>>> Thank you,
> >>>> Nelson
> >>> You are still describing a TPS connection failure with the racing and
> >>> stalling. The new part only cleaned 'half' the connection.
> >>>
> >>> Spraycontact cleaneror even WD40 is called for like Will mentions.
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> >>> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com- Hide quoted text -
> >>>
> <spam snipped>
it in no way controls idle( unless stuck)95 and newer) it just reports it's
findings(hence a potentiometer) to a pcm and then that pcm decides what to do and
then tells the iac what to do
Mike Romain wrote:
> His symptoms of revving high then stalling point directly to a bad
> connection on the TPS. This is exactly how they act.
>
> Why are you reposting SPAM? Not once, but twice now.
>
> Mike
>
> philthy wrote:
> > clean carbon off the throttle plate and throttle body and then clean battery
> > termianls too
> > poor battery connections casue all sorts of stalling issues in cars newer than
> > 2000's
> >
> > "shaqtopz@aol.com" wrote:
> >
> >> On Dec 18, 11:43 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>> lost_dogma wrote:
> >>>> I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L I6, over 130,000 miles,
> >>>> Selec-Trac 4WD...
> >>>> Earlier in the month we had snow and record rainfall which cause
> >>>> flooding and an awful lot of standing water in areas where I drive.
> >>>> To keep a long story short, I'm guessing that something that shouldn't
> >>>> have gotten wet must have because the engine check light came on and
> >>>> the problems started occurring: The trouble codes that came up were:
> >>>> P1596 (Speed control switch), and P0123 (Throttle position sensor).
> >>>> After starting the engine, the rpms would race up past 2k then come
> >>>> back down to normal. When slowing down or stopping it would stall and
> >>>> die. I could easily start it again, but having this happen in traffic
> >>>> is a pain and possibly dangerous. Needing the car, I took it to a
> >>>> local shop and they were able to fix/clear the P1596 trouble code by
> >>>> cleaning/drying the connections to the sensors, but the P0123 code
> >>>> remains even after they installed a new TPS. So it still stalls
> >>>> intermittenly and always at the most incovienent time. I also noticed
> >>>> that as certain times around 20-25 mph it would hiccup for lack of a
> >>>> better word. This would happend when I needed speed/power.
> >>>> Before my Jeep ran like a champ, no probems whatsoever...
> >>>> now it needs a little help to get back to its old self...
> >>>> Any information, suggestions, possible fixes would highly be
> >>>> appreciated!
> >>>> Thank you,
> >>>> Nelson
> >>> You are still describing a TPS connection failure with the racing and
> >>> stalling. The new part only cleaned 'half' the connection.
> >>>
> >>> Spraycontact cleaneror even WD40 is called for like Will mentions.
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> >>> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com- Hide quoted text -
> >>>
> <spam snipped>
12-24-2007, 10:05 AM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 JGC Laredo 4.0L I6 stalling- Spam warning!
On Dec 21, 7:59 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> shaqt...@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Yikes, notWD-40- good temporatary fix, but could make it worse in
> > awhile. Use deoxIT on all connections, works EVERY time. <SPAM SNIPPED>
>
> Listen you freaking SPAMMER,WD40is called 'water displacement fluid #
> 40. It is 'designed to be used on electrical connections and 'WORKS
> VERY WELL' for this.
>
> Your deoxit is Spam ---- that will not fix the problem. WD40is better!
>
> WD40at least adds a seal that your SPAM junk doesn't.
>
> I would 'NEVER" buy Spammed snake oil, Your product only deserves a BOYCOTT!
>
> Keep Spamming my posts all over Usenet and I 'WILL' start a Boycott
> campaign.
>
> A 'real' electronic contact cleaner is called for with dielectric grease
> on the seal skirts to do a proper job.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
Somehow I got an email mentioning a problem with electrical
connections. My appologiges for making a comment on MY 40 years of
electronics experiences with electrical connections. Since this is a
closed newsgroup, you all should discuss what you want. Perhaps you
should have a intranet newsgroup so nobody else can view your
discussion and make any comments/suggesstions.
Also, vulgar comments are not recommended/professional on an OPEN
newsgroup.
Mike
> shaqt...@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Yikes, notWD-40- good temporatary fix, but could make it worse in
> > awhile. Use deoxIT on all connections, works EVERY time. <SPAM SNIPPED>
>
> Listen you freaking SPAMMER,WD40is called 'water displacement fluid #
> 40. It is 'designed to be used on electrical connections and 'WORKS
> VERY WELL' for this.
>
> Your deoxit is Spam ---- that will not fix the problem. WD40is better!
>
> WD40at least adds a seal that your SPAM junk doesn't.
>
> I would 'NEVER" buy Spammed snake oil, Your product only deserves a BOYCOTT!
>
> Keep Spamming my posts all over Usenet and I 'WILL' start a Boycott
> campaign.
>
> A 'real' electronic contact cleaner is called for with dielectric grease
> on the seal skirts to do a proper job.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
Somehow I got an email mentioning a problem with electrical
connections. My appologiges for making a comment on MY 40 years of
electronics experiences with electrical connections. Since this is a
closed newsgroup, you all should discuss what you want. Perhaps you
should have a intranet newsgroup so nobody else can view your
discussion and make any comments/suggesstions.
Also, vulgar comments are not recommended/professional on an OPEN
newsgroup.
Mike
12-24-2007, 10:05 AM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 JGC Laredo 4.0L I6 stalling- Spam warning!
On Dec 21, 7:59 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> shaqt...@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Yikes, notWD-40- good temporatary fix, but could make it worse in
> > awhile. Use deoxIT on all connections, works EVERY time. <SPAM SNIPPED>
>
> Listen you freaking SPAMMER,WD40is called 'water displacement fluid #
> 40. It is 'designed to be used on electrical connections and 'WORKS
> VERY WELL' for this.
>
> Your deoxit is Spam ---- that will not fix the problem. WD40is better!
>
> WD40at least adds a seal that your SPAM junk doesn't.
>
> I would 'NEVER" buy Spammed snake oil, Your product only deserves a BOYCOTT!
>
> Keep Spamming my posts all over Usenet and I 'WILL' start a Boycott
> campaign.
>
> A 'real' electronic contact cleaner is called for with dielectric grease
> on the seal skirts to do a proper job.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
Somehow I got an email mentioning a problem with electrical
connections. My appologiges for making a comment on MY 40 years of
electronics experiences with electrical connections. Since this is a
closed newsgroup, you all should discuss what you want. Perhaps you
should have a intranet newsgroup so nobody else can view your
discussion and make any comments/suggesstions.
Also, vulgar comments are not recommended/professional on an OPEN
newsgroup.
Mike
> shaqt...@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Yikes, notWD-40- good temporatary fix, but could make it worse in
> > awhile. Use deoxIT on all connections, works EVERY time. <SPAM SNIPPED>
>
> Listen you freaking SPAMMER,WD40is called 'water displacement fluid #
> 40. It is 'designed to be used on electrical connections and 'WORKS
> VERY WELL' for this.
>
> Your deoxit is Spam ---- that will not fix the problem. WD40is better!
>
> WD40at least adds a seal that your SPAM junk doesn't.
>
> I would 'NEVER" buy Spammed snake oil, Your product only deserves a BOYCOTT!
>
> Keep Spamming my posts all over Usenet and I 'WILL' start a Boycott
> campaign.
>
> A 'real' electronic contact cleaner is called for with dielectric grease
> on the seal skirts to do a proper job.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
Somehow I got an email mentioning a problem with electrical
connections. My appologiges for making a comment on MY 40 years of
electronics experiences with electrical connections. Since this is a
closed newsgroup, you all should discuss what you want. Perhaps you
should have a intranet newsgroup so nobody else can view your
discussion and make any comments/suggesstions.
Also, vulgar comments are not recommended/professional on an OPEN
newsgroup.
Mike
12-24-2007, 10:46 AM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 JGC Laredo 4.0L I6 stalling
For ten years I 'repaired' my 'dead' according to the $tealer, TPS on my
88 Cherokee every couple years by cleaning it's connection.
The symptoms for mine and many many more I have helped with this advice
are: it revs high on start up, then stalls at the stop signs.
This happens often after a run through water where the fan picks it up
and sprays it.
'Every' one with these symptoms that I have seen and read about were
'fixed' by simply cleaning the connection with a spray contact cleaner.
This also goes for several 'transmission failures' including more than
one sucker that got hit for a rebuilt, that were only the TPS giving a
bad signal 'because of the dirty connection'.
Mike
philthy wrote:
> mike you have the theory of the operation of a t.p sensor mixed up
> it in no way controls idle( unless stuck)95 and newer) it just reports it's
> findings(hence a potentiometer) to a pcm and then that pcm decides what to do and
> then tells the iac what to do
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
>> His symptoms of revving high then stalling point directly to a bad
>> connection on the TPS. This is exactly how they act.
>>
>> Why are you reposting SPAM? Not once, but twice now.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> philthy wrote:
>>> clean carbon off the throttle plate and throttle body and then clean battery
>>> termianls too
>>> poor battery connections casue all sorts of stalling issues in cars newer than
>>> 2000's
>>>
The trouble codes that came up were:
>>>>>> P1596 (Speed control switch), and P0123 (Throttle position sensor).
>>>>>> After starting the engine, the rpms would race up past 2k then come
>>>>>> back down to normal. When slowing down or stopping it would stall and
>>>>>> die.
88 Cherokee every couple years by cleaning it's connection.
The symptoms for mine and many many more I have helped with this advice
are: it revs high on start up, then stalls at the stop signs.
This happens often after a run through water where the fan picks it up
and sprays it.
'Every' one with these symptoms that I have seen and read about were
'fixed' by simply cleaning the connection with a spray contact cleaner.
This also goes for several 'transmission failures' including more than
one sucker that got hit for a rebuilt, that were only the TPS giving a
bad signal 'because of the dirty connection'.
Mike
philthy wrote:
> mike you have the theory of the operation of a t.p sensor mixed up
> it in no way controls idle( unless stuck)95 and newer) it just reports it's
> findings(hence a potentiometer) to a pcm and then that pcm decides what to do and
> then tells the iac what to do
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
>> His symptoms of revving high then stalling point directly to a bad
>> connection on the TPS. This is exactly how they act.
>>
>> Why are you reposting SPAM? Not once, but twice now.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> philthy wrote:
>>> clean carbon off the throttle plate and throttle body and then clean battery
>>> termianls too
>>> poor battery connections casue all sorts of stalling issues in cars newer than
>>> 2000's
>>>
The trouble codes that came up were:
>>>>>> P1596 (Speed control switch), and P0123 (Throttle position sensor).
>>>>>> After starting the engine, the rpms would race up past 2k then come
>>>>>> back down to normal. When slowing down or stopping it would stall and
>>>>>> die.
12-24-2007, 10:46 AM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 JGC Laredo 4.0L I6 stalling
For ten years I 'repaired' my 'dead' according to the $tealer, TPS on my
88 Cherokee every couple years by cleaning it's connection.
The symptoms for mine and many many more I have helped with this advice
are: it revs high on start up, then stalls at the stop signs.
This happens often after a run through water where the fan picks it up
and sprays it.
'Every' one with these symptoms that I have seen and read about were
'fixed' by simply cleaning the connection with a spray contact cleaner.
This also goes for several 'transmission failures' including more than
one sucker that got hit for a rebuilt, that were only the TPS giving a
bad signal 'because of the dirty connection'.
Mike
philthy wrote:
> mike you have the theory of the operation of a t.p sensor mixed up
> it in no way controls idle( unless stuck)95 and newer) it just reports it's
> findings(hence a potentiometer) to a pcm and then that pcm decides what to do and
> then tells the iac what to do
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
>> His symptoms of revving high then stalling point directly to a bad
>> connection on the TPS. This is exactly how they act.
>>
>> Why are you reposting SPAM? Not once, but twice now.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> philthy wrote:
>>> clean carbon off the throttle plate and throttle body and then clean battery
>>> termianls too
>>> poor battery connections casue all sorts of stalling issues in cars newer than
>>> 2000's
>>>
The trouble codes that came up were:
>>>>>> P1596 (Speed control switch), and P0123 (Throttle position sensor).
>>>>>> After starting the engine, the rpms would race up past 2k then come
>>>>>> back down to normal. When slowing down or stopping it would stall and
>>>>>> die.
88 Cherokee every couple years by cleaning it's connection.
The symptoms for mine and many many more I have helped with this advice
are: it revs high on start up, then stalls at the stop signs.
This happens often after a run through water where the fan picks it up
and sprays it.
'Every' one with these symptoms that I have seen and read about were
'fixed' by simply cleaning the connection with a spray contact cleaner.
This also goes for several 'transmission failures' including more than
one sucker that got hit for a rebuilt, that were only the TPS giving a
bad signal 'because of the dirty connection'.
Mike
philthy wrote:
> mike you have the theory of the operation of a t.p sensor mixed up
> it in no way controls idle( unless stuck)95 and newer) it just reports it's
> findings(hence a potentiometer) to a pcm and then that pcm decides what to do and
> then tells the iac what to do
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
>> His symptoms of revving high then stalling point directly to a bad
>> connection on the TPS. This is exactly how they act.
>>
>> Why are you reposting SPAM? Not once, but twice now.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> philthy wrote:
>>> clean carbon off the throttle plate and throttle body and then clean battery
>>> termianls too
>>> poor battery connections casue all sorts of stalling issues in cars newer than
>>> 2000's
>>>
The trouble codes that came up were:
>>>>>> P1596 (Speed control switch), and P0123 (Throttle position sensor).
>>>>>> After starting the engine, the rpms would race up past 2k then come
>>>>>> back down to normal. When slowing down or stopping it would stall and
>>>>>> die.
12-24-2007, 10:57 AM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 JGC Laredo 4.0L I6 stalling- Spam warning!
YOU ARE A LYING SCUMBUCKET SPAMMER!!
The fact you are a bald faced liar says it all.
A quick Google search shows your email name is only used to SPAM
newsgroups with your snake oil. Google shows 157 of your SPAM posts.
You wanna play? I will contact the company about your unwanted SPAM and
your lies and offer to start an internet Boycott of their product solely
because of 'You' and your lies.
We will see how long you keep selling that snake oil now won't we?
Mike
>
> Somehow I got an email mentioning a problem with electrical
> connections. My appologiges for making a comment on MY 40 years of
> electronics experiences with electrical connections. Since this is a
> closed newsgroup, you all should discuss what you want. Perhaps you
> should have a intranet newsgroup so nobody else can view your
> discussion and make any comments/suggesstions.
> Also, vulgar comments are not recommended/professional on an OPEN
> newsgroup.
> Mike
The fact you are a bald faced liar says it all.
A quick Google search shows your email name is only used to SPAM
newsgroups with your snake oil. Google shows 157 of your SPAM posts.
You wanna play? I will contact the company about your unwanted SPAM and
your lies and offer to start an internet Boycott of their product solely
because of 'You' and your lies.
We will see how long you keep selling that snake oil now won't we?
Mike
>
> Somehow I got an email mentioning a problem with electrical
> connections. My appologiges for making a comment on MY 40 years of
> electronics experiences with electrical connections. Since this is a
> closed newsgroup, you all should discuss what you want. Perhaps you
> should have a intranet newsgroup so nobody else can view your
> discussion and make any comments/suggesstions.
> Also, vulgar comments are not recommended/professional on an OPEN
> newsgroup.
> Mike
