Will,
I kinda doubt a vacuum leak would be to blame for this, unless it was an instant
HUGE leak, but that would show up at other times as well. Normally on a speed
density system, a vacuum leak will just cause a higher idle.

One thing I'd check would be the EGR/EVAP solenoid. If that thing doesn't shut
off right it'll cause problems, especially cold. Should be energized (vacuum
off) at idle when hot, and at all times when cold. If it's unplugged, vacuum is
always on.

You say it happens cold, at the bottom of a hill? Is it a manual trans?


In message <JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-T8DufSYEeZIP@anon.none.net>, "Will Honea" wrote:

>On Tue, 7 Sep 2004 02:08:33 UTC M. E. Bye <fxdyna@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Just over 71,000. At this point, I'm thinking crank position sensor?
>
>I would be looking at cruddy connectors, myself, but when I first got
>mine it was doing this and it took the whole arsenal and several
>months to get a decent idle. Cleaning the TPS and throttle body made
>the biggest difference - especially the port for the Idle Air Control
>- but it took a new O2 sensor to get the last little dip out. Mine is
>the older version MFI and it still wants to die when I hit the brake
>just after starting and easing to the bottom of the hill. Now code
>retention for the old beast but I'd go with the info you have and
>check the connectors for the TPS.
>
>Slightly different, but this may be a clue for some others: it now
>appears that mine dies WHEN I HIT THE BRAKE PEDAL. That points to a
>vacuum leak but it cures itself after the first time so it would
>almost have to be a sticky check valve in there. Anyone know of a
>check valve in the brake booster that can stick allowing a large
>vavuum leak until it frees itself?

 

Will,
I kinda doubt a vacuum leak would be to blame for this, unless it was an instant
HUGE leak, but that would show up at other times as well. Normally on a speed
density system, a vacuum leak will just cause a higher idle.

One thing I'd check would be the EGR/EVAP solenoid. If that thing doesn't shut
off right it'll cause problems, especially cold. Should be energized (vacuum
off) at idle when hot, and at all times when cold. If it's unplugged, vacuum is
always on.

You say it happens cold, at the bottom of a hill? Is it a manual trans?


In message <JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-T8DufSYEeZIP@anon.none.net>, "Will Honea" wrote:

>On Tue, 7 Sep 2004 02:08:33 UTC M. E. Bye <fxdyna@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Just over 71,000. At this point, I'm thinking crank position sensor?
>
>I would be looking at cruddy connectors, myself, but when I first got
>mine it was doing this and it took the whole arsenal and several
>months to get a decent idle. Cleaning the TPS and throttle body made
>the biggest difference - especially the port for the Idle Air Control
>- but it took a new O2 sensor to get the last little dip out. Mine is
>the older version MFI and it still wants to die when I hit the brake
>just after starting and easing to the bottom of the hill. Now code
>retention for the old beast but I'd go with the info you have and
>check the connectors for the TPS.
>
>Slightly different, but this may be a clue for some others: it now
>appears that mine dies WHEN I HIT THE BRAKE PEDAL. That points to a
>vacuum leak but it cures itself after the first time so it would
>almost have to be a sticky check valve in there. Anyone know of a
>check valve in the brake booster that can stick allowing a large
>vavuum leak until it frees itself?

 

Will,
I kinda doubt a vacuum leak would be to blame for this, unless it was an instant
HUGE leak, but that would show up at other times as well. Normally on a speed
density system, a vacuum leak will just cause a higher idle.

One thing I'd check would be the EGR/EVAP solenoid. If that thing doesn't shut
off right it'll cause problems, especially cold. Should be energized (vacuum
off) at idle when hot, and at all times when cold. If it's unplugged, vacuum is
always on.

You say it happens cold, at the bottom of a hill? Is it a manual trans?


In message <JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-T8DufSYEeZIP@anon.none.net>, "Will Honea" wrote:

>On Tue, 7 Sep 2004 02:08:33 UTC M. E. Bye <fxdyna@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Just over 71,000. At this point, I'm thinking crank position sensor?
>
>I would be looking at cruddy connectors, myself, but when I first got
>mine it was doing this and it took the whole arsenal and several
>months to get a decent idle. Cleaning the TPS and throttle body made
>the biggest difference - especially the port for the Idle Air Control
>- but it took a new O2 sensor to get the last little dip out. Mine is
>the older version MFI and it still wants to die when I hit the brake
>just after starting and easing to the bottom of the hill. Now code
>retention for the old beast but I'd go with the info you have and
>check the connectors for the TPS.
>
>Slightly different, but this may be a clue for some others: it now
>appears that mine dies WHEN I HIT THE BRAKE PEDAL. That points to a
>vacuum leak but it cures itself after the first time so it would
>almost have to be a sticky check valve in there. Anyone know of a
>check valve in the brake booster that can stick allowing a large
>vavuum leak until it frees itself?

 

It's a manual. I hadn't thought about the EGR - thanks. I did have
to do a complete soak to get that sucker clean when I first got this
truck but I haven't looked lately. When I got it the CCV was plugged
up and the whole intake system looked like it had been pickled in crud
- finally took a gallon of Carter's and a big ultrasonic tank to get
it all clean. One of the unexpected side effects of blowby and a
plugged CCV. The EGR was all carboned up as well due to a really weak
O2 letting it idle rich but all of those things finally came clean.

Like I said, after 3 years and 60K miles with the thing I've just
learned to release the clutch, tap the gas and live with that first
stop at the bottom of the hill.

On Wed, 8 Sep 2004 04:21:06 UTC bllsht <nospam@invaliddot.net> wrote:

> Will,
> I kinda doubt a vacuum leak would be to blame for this, unless it was an instant
> HUGE leak, but that would show up at other times as well. Normally on a speed
> density system, a vacuum leak will just cause a higher idle.
>
> One thing I'd check would be the EGR/EVAP solenoid. If that thing doesn't shut
> off right it'll cause problems, especially cold. Should be energized (vacuum
> off) at idle when hot, and at all times when cold. If it's unplugged, vacuum is
> always on.
>
> You say it happens cold, at the bottom of a hill? Is it a manual trans?
>
>
> In message <JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-T8DufSYEeZIP@anon.none.net>, "Will Honea" wrote:
>
> >On Tue, 7 Sep 2004 02:08:33 UTC M. E. Bye <fxdyna@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Just over 71,000. At this point, I'm thinking crank position sensor?
> >
> >I would be looking at cruddy connectors, myself, but when I first got
> >mine it was doing this and it took the whole arsenal and several
> >months to get a decent idle. Cleaning the TPS and throttle body made
> >the biggest difference - especially the port for the Idle Air Control
> >- but it took a new O2 sensor to get the last little dip out. Mine is
> >the older version MFI and it still wants to die when I hit the brake
> >just after starting and easing to the bottom of the hill. Now code
> >retention for the old beast but I'd go with the info you have and
> >check the connectors for the TPS.
> >
> >Slightly different, but this may be a clue for some others: it now
> >appears that mine dies WHEN I HIT THE BRAKE PEDAL. That points to a
> >vacuum leak but it cures itself after the first time so it would
> >almost have to be a sticky check valve in there. Anyone know of a
> >check valve in the brake booster that can stick allowing a large
> >vavuum leak until it frees itself?
>


--
Will Honea

 

It's a manual. I hadn't thought about the EGR - thanks. I did have
to do a complete soak to get that sucker clean when I first got this
truck but I haven't looked lately. When I got it the CCV was plugged
up and the whole intake system looked like it had been pickled in crud
- finally took a gallon of Carter's and a big ultrasonic tank to get
it all clean. One of the unexpected side effects of blowby and a
plugged CCV. The EGR was all carboned up as well due to a really weak
O2 letting it idle rich but all of those things finally came clean.

Like I said, after 3 years and 60K miles with the thing I've just
learned to release the clutch, tap the gas and live with that first
stop at the bottom of the hill.

On Wed, 8 Sep 2004 04:21:06 UTC bllsht <nospam@invaliddot.net> wrote:

> Will,
> I kinda doubt a vacuum leak would be to blame for this, unless it was an instant
> HUGE leak, but that would show up at other times as well. Normally on a speed
> density system, a vacuum leak will just cause a higher idle.
>
> One thing I'd check would be the EGR/EVAP solenoid. If that thing doesn't shut
> off right it'll cause problems, especially cold. Should be energized (vacuum
> off) at idle when hot, and at all times when cold. If it's unplugged, vacuum is
> always on.
>
> You say it happens cold, at the bottom of a hill? Is it a manual trans?
>
>
> In message <JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-T8DufSYEeZIP@anon.none.net>, "Will Honea" wrote:
>
> >On Tue, 7 Sep 2004 02:08:33 UTC M. E. Bye <fxdyna@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Just over 71,000. At this point, I'm thinking crank position sensor?
> >
> >I would be looking at cruddy connectors, myself, but when I first got
> >mine it was doing this and it took the whole arsenal and several
> >months to get a decent idle. Cleaning the TPS and throttle body made
> >the biggest difference - especially the port for the Idle Air Control
> >- but it took a new O2 sensor to get the last little dip out. Mine is
> >the older version MFI and it still wants to die when I hit the brake
> >just after starting and easing to the bottom of the hill. Now code
> >retention for the old beast but I'd go with the info you have and
> >check the connectors for the TPS.
> >
> >Slightly different, but this may be a clue for some others: it now
> >appears that mine dies WHEN I HIT THE BRAKE PEDAL. That points to a
> >vacuum leak but it cures itself after the first time so it would
> >almost have to be a sticky check valve in there. Anyone know of a
> >check valve in the brake booster that can stick allowing a large
> >vavuum leak until it frees itself?
>


--
Will Honea

 

It's a manual. I hadn't thought about the EGR - thanks. I did have
to do a complete soak to get that sucker clean when I first got this
truck but I haven't looked lately. When I got it the CCV was plugged
up and the whole intake system looked like it had been pickled in crud
- finally took a gallon of Carter's and a big ultrasonic tank to get
it all clean. One of the unexpected side effects of blowby and a
plugged CCV. The EGR was all carboned up as well due to a really weak
O2 letting it idle rich but all of those things finally came clean.

Like I said, after 3 years and 60K miles with the thing I've just
learned to release the clutch, tap the gas and live with that first
stop at the bottom of the hill.

On Wed, 8 Sep 2004 04:21:06 UTC bllsht <nospam@invaliddot.net> wrote:

> Will,
> I kinda doubt a vacuum leak would be to blame for this, unless it was an instant
> HUGE leak, but that would show up at other times as well. Normally on a speed
> density system, a vacuum leak will just cause a higher idle.
>
> One thing I'd check would be the EGR/EVAP solenoid. If that thing doesn't shut
> off right it'll cause problems, especially cold. Should be energized (vacuum
> off) at idle when hot, and at all times when cold. If it's unplugged, vacuum is
> always on.
>
> You say it happens cold, at the bottom of a hill? Is it a manual trans?
>
>
> In message <JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-T8DufSYEeZIP@anon.none.net>, "Will Honea" wrote:
>
> >On Tue, 7 Sep 2004 02:08:33 UTC M. E. Bye <fxdyna@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Just over 71,000. At this point, I'm thinking crank position sensor?
> >
> >I would be looking at cruddy connectors, myself, but when I first got
> >mine it was doing this and it took the whole arsenal and several
> >months to get a decent idle. Cleaning the TPS and throttle body made
> >the biggest difference - especially the port for the Idle Air Control
> >- but it took a new O2 sensor to get the last little dip out. Mine is
> >the older version MFI and it still wants to die when I hit the brake
> >just after starting and easing to the bottom of the hill. Now code
> >retention for the old beast but I'd go with the info you have and
> >check the connectors for the TPS.
> >
> >Slightly different, but this may be a clue for some others: it now
> >appears that mine dies WHEN I HIT THE BRAKE PEDAL. That points to a
> >vacuum leak but it cures itself after the first time so it would
> >almost have to be a sticky check valve in there. Anyone know of a
> >check valve in the brake booster that can stick allowing a large
> >vavuum leak until it frees itself?
>


--
Will Honea

 

In message <JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-Tug8CR23jki9@anon.none.net>, "Will Honea" wrote:

>It's a manual. I hadn't thought about the EGR - thanks. I did have
>to do a complete soak to get that sucker clean when I first got this
>truck but I haven't looked lately. When I got it the CCV was plugged
>up and the whole intake system looked like it had been pickled in crud
>- finally took a gallon of Carter's and a big ultrasonic tank to get
>it all clean. One of the unexpected side effects of blowby and a
>plugged CCV. The EGR was all carboned up as well due to a really weak
>O2 letting it idle rich but all of those things finally came clean.
>
>Like I said, after 3 years and 60K miles with the thing I've just
>learned to release the clutch, tap the gas and live with that first
>stop at the bottom of the hill.

That's probably the fix right there. Going downhill using the engine to slow
you down, the computer sees closed throttle but still a higher than normal idle
speed. That'll make the computer shove the IAC out all the way to try to get
the idle where it thinks it belongs. The computer has no idea the vehicle is
moving or that the clutch is engaged, so it doesn't know any better. Then you
disengage the clutch and the idle drops too much. Being that it's also cold
just adds to the problem, and it can't recover in time to keep from stalling.

Today's computers are a little smarter and have more info to work with. :-)


>
>On Wed, 8 Sep 2004 04:21:06 UTC bllsht <nospam@invaliddot.net> wrote:
>
>> Will,
>> I kinda doubt a vacuum leak would be to blame for this, unless it was an instant
>> HUGE leak, but that would show up at other times as well. Normally on a speed
>> density system, a vacuum leak will just cause a higher idle.
>>
>> One thing I'd check would be the EGR/EVAP solenoid. If that thing doesn't shut
>> off right it'll cause problems, especially cold. Should be energized (vacuum
>> off) at idle when hot, and at all times when cold. If it's unplugged, vacuum is
>> always on.
>>
>> You say it happens cold, at the bottom of a hill? Is it a manual trans?
>>
>>
>> In message <JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-T8DufSYEeZIP@anon.none.net>, "Will Honea" wrote:
>>
>> >On Tue, 7 Sep 2004 02:08:33 UTC M. E. Bye <fxdyna@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Just over 71,000. At this point, I'm thinking crank position sensor?
>> >
>> >I would be looking at cruddy connectors, myself, but when I first got
>> >mine it was doing this and it took the whole arsenal and several
>> >months to get a decent idle. Cleaning the TPS and throttle body made
>> >the biggest difference - especially the port for the Idle Air Control
>> >- but it took a new O2 sensor to get the last little dip out. Mine is
>> >the older version MFI and it still wants to die when I hit the brake
>> >just after starting and easing to the bottom of the hill. Now code
>> >retention for the old beast but I'd go with the info you have and
>> >check the connectors for the TPS.
>> >
>> >Slightly different, but this may be a clue for some others: it now
>> >appears that mine dies WHEN I HIT THE BRAKE PEDAL. That points to a
>> >vacuum leak but it cures itself after the first time so it would
>> >almost have to be a sticky check valve in there. Anyone know of a
>> >check valve in the brake booster that can stick allowing a large
>> >vavuum leak until it frees itself?
>>

 

In message <JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-Tug8CR23jki9@anon.none.net>, "Will Honea" wrote:

>It's a manual. I hadn't thought about the EGR - thanks. I did have
>to do a complete soak to get that sucker clean when I first got this
>truck but I haven't looked lately. When I got it the CCV was plugged
>up and the whole intake system looked like it had been pickled in crud
>- finally took a gallon of Carter's and a big ultrasonic tank to get
>it all clean. One of the unexpected side effects of blowby and a
>plugged CCV. The EGR was all carboned up as well due to a really weak
>O2 letting it idle rich but all of those things finally came clean.
>
>Like I said, after 3 years and 60K miles with the thing I've just
>learned to release the clutch, tap the gas and live with that first
>stop at the bottom of the hill.

That's probably the fix right there. Going downhill using the engine to slow
you down, the computer sees closed throttle but still a higher than normal idle
speed. That'll make the computer shove the IAC out all the way to try to get
the idle where it thinks it belongs. The computer has no idea the vehicle is
moving or that the clutch is engaged, so it doesn't know any better. Then you
disengage the clutch and the idle drops too much. Being that it's also cold
just adds to the problem, and it can't recover in time to keep from stalling.

Today's computers are a little smarter and have more info to work with. :-)


>
>On Wed, 8 Sep 2004 04:21:06 UTC bllsht <nospam@invaliddot.net> wrote:
>
>> Will,
>> I kinda doubt a vacuum leak would be to blame for this, unless it was an instant
>> HUGE leak, but that would show up at other times as well. Normally on a speed
>> density system, a vacuum leak will just cause a higher idle.
>>
>> One thing I'd check would be the EGR/EVAP solenoid. If that thing doesn't shut
>> off right it'll cause problems, especially cold. Should be energized (vacuum
>> off) at idle when hot, and at all times when cold. If it's unplugged, vacuum is
>> always on.
>>
>> You say it happens cold, at the bottom of a hill? Is it a manual trans?
>>
>>
>> In message <JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-T8DufSYEeZIP@anon.none.net>, "Will Honea" wrote:
>>
>> >On Tue, 7 Sep 2004 02:08:33 UTC M. E. Bye <fxdyna@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Just over 71,000. At this point, I'm thinking crank position sensor?
>> >
>> >I would be looking at cruddy connectors, myself, but when I first got
>> >mine it was doing this and it took the whole arsenal and several
>> >months to get a decent idle. Cleaning the TPS and throttle body made
>> >the biggest difference - especially the port for the Idle Air Control
>> >- but it took a new O2 sensor to get the last little dip out. Mine is
>> >the older version MFI and it still wants to die when I hit the brake
>> >just after starting and easing to the bottom of the hill. Now code
>> >retention for the old beast but I'd go with the info you have and
>> >check the connectors for the TPS.
>> >
>> >Slightly different, but this may be a clue for some others: it now
>> >appears that mine dies WHEN I HIT THE BRAKE PEDAL. That points to a
>> >vacuum leak but it cures itself after the first time so it would
>> >almost have to be a sticky check valve in there. Anyone know of a
>> >check valve in the brake booster that can stick allowing a large
>> >vavuum leak until it frees itself?
>>

 

In message <JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-Tug8CR23jki9@anon.none.net>, "Will Honea" wrote:

>It's a manual. I hadn't thought about the EGR - thanks. I did have
>to do a complete soak to get that sucker clean when I first got this
>truck but I haven't looked lately. When I got it the CCV was plugged
>up and the whole intake system looked like it had been pickled in crud
>- finally took a gallon of Carter's and a big ultrasonic tank to get
>it all clean. One of the unexpected side effects of blowby and a
>plugged CCV. The EGR was all carboned up as well due to a really weak
>O2 letting it idle rich but all of those things finally came clean.
>
>Like I said, after 3 years and 60K miles with the thing I've just
>learned to release the clutch, tap the gas and live with that first
>stop at the bottom of the hill.

That's probably the fix right there. Going downhill using the engine to slow
you down, the computer sees closed throttle but still a higher than normal idle
speed. That'll make the computer shove the IAC out all the way to try to get
the idle where it thinks it belongs. The computer has no idea the vehicle is
moving or that the clutch is engaged, so it doesn't know any better. Then you
disengage the clutch and the idle drops too much. Being that it's also cold
just adds to the problem, and it can't recover in time to keep from stalling.

Today's computers are a little smarter and have more info to work with. :-)


>
>On Wed, 8 Sep 2004 04:21:06 UTC bllsht <nospam@invaliddot.net> wrote:
>
>> Will,
>> I kinda doubt a vacuum leak would be to blame for this, unless it was an instant
>> HUGE leak, but that would show up at other times as well. Normally on a speed
>> density system, a vacuum leak will just cause a higher idle.
>>
>> One thing I'd check would be the EGR/EVAP solenoid. If that thing doesn't shut
>> off right it'll cause problems, especially cold. Should be energized (vacuum
>> off) at idle when hot, and at all times when cold. If it's unplugged, vacuum is
>> always on.
>>
>> You say it happens cold, at the bottom of a hill? Is it a manual trans?
>>
>>
>> In message <JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-T8DufSYEeZIP@anon.none.net>, "Will Honea" wrote:
>>
>> >On Tue, 7 Sep 2004 02:08:33 UTC M. E. Bye <fxdyna@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Just over 71,000. At this point, I'm thinking crank position sensor?
>> >
>> >I would be looking at cruddy connectors, myself, but when I first got
>> >mine it was doing this and it took the whole arsenal and several
>> >months to get a decent idle. Cleaning the TPS and throttle body made
>> >the biggest difference - especially the port for the Idle Air Control
>> >- but it took a new O2 sensor to get the last little dip out. Mine is
>> >the older version MFI and it still wants to die when I hit the brake
>> >just after starting and easing to the bottom of the hill. Now code
>> >retention for the old beast but I'd go with the info you have and
>> >check the connectors for the TPS.
>> >
>> >Slightly different, but this may be a clue for some others: it now
>> >appears that mine dies WHEN I HIT THE BRAKE PEDAL. That points to a
>> >vacuum leak but it cures itself after the first time so it would
>> >almost have to be a sticky check valve in there. Anyone know of a
>> >check valve in the brake booster that can stick allowing a large
>> >vavuum leak until it frees itself?
>>

 

Well, I don't know if this will help you any; I'm feeling lazy and not
reading through all the responses you've already gotten to this.
Anyway...

I had similar problems, only I was getting two check engine fault
codes. One said the MAP sensor reading was bad, the other said the TPS
and MAP reading were inconsistent with each other.

So, I replaced the MAP sensor. Problem solved...for half a day!
Engine light came on--MAP code was gone, but the MAP/TPS disagreement
reading was still there.
So, I replaced the TPS. Problem solved--for good. That was 3 or 4
months ago, and I haven't had a problem since, no matter the trip
distance or the alititude (done some high pass trails in Ouray since
then, too!).

So, you might check the MAP sensor, too. I think I saw you mentioning
some issues that you thought sounded like vacuum pressure, too--would
the manifold absolute pressure sensor be applicable to that sort of
diagnosis? (I'm asking, I don't know).

Good luck.

/Bob


M. E. Bye <fxdyna@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<3dapj05f1lptlnr3m4kn8e9url8skgfn9d@4ax.com>. ..
> On Sat, 04 Sep 2004 07:20:47 -0500, M. E. Bye <fxdyna@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >On Wed, 01 Sep 2004 17:39:45 -0500, M. E. Bye <fxdyna@hotmail.com>
> >wrote:
> >
> >>About a week ago, my '98 TJ (2.5L, 5-speed, 71K miles) began missing
> >>at highway speed, bucking like a bronco. I chalked it up to a bad
> >>tank of gas, so I dumped in a bottle of HEET and a bottle of fuel
> >>injector cleaner. The problem continued, so I did the same thing with
> >>my next fill-up at a different station. No improvement. Since then,
> >>I've changed the plugs, installed new wires, distributor cap and
> >>rotor, have cleaned the throttle body, and have disconnected all
> >>electrical connections to the throttle body and fuel injectors and
> >>have sprayed electrical contact cleaner on them. I still have an
> >>intermittent miss at speed. Not as severe as before, but I still have
> >>the problem. What's next?
> >>
> >>Thanks in advance for any assistance!
> >>
> >>Mark
> >>'98 TJ
> >>'98 XJ
> >
> >Well, by cracky, it's fixed. It didn't come about without a story,
> >though. I took off from work at noon yesterday (Friday) and set out
> >to my local AutoZone store to drop about $150 on new oxygen sensors.
> >En route, something happened that hadn't before. Specifically my
> >"CHECK ENGINE" light came on. Now I KNEW that I had to have some sort
> >of codes that would display (none did the previous day when my buddy
> >plugged in his code reader). So, when I got to AutoZone, I asked the
> >counter guy if he had a code reader, which he did. He checked it and
> >got a code "TPS/Pedal Travel Sensor". Well, neither one of us knew
> >what a Pedal Travel Sensor was, but both knew what a TPS was.
> >However, the counter guy still suggests strongly that I've got a fuel
> >filter problem and that should be my priority fix. I thanked him and
> >decided that it was now time to go see the Jeep repair guy at a
> >dealership. Drove crosstown and talked with the Jeep technician who
> >really felt it was the throttle position sensor, so I went to their
> >parts counter and asked if they had one. Nope, but they could order
> >it. I had 'em check with a dealership 35 miles down the road. They
> >had 3 of 'em. I got on the cellphone and asked them to hold one, I'd
> >be right there. An hour later, I've got the new one on and everything
> >is back to normal! Now I can get back to spending $$$ on my Jeep for
> >fun things.
> >
> >Thanks to everyone who provided assistance with this.
> >
> >Mark
> >'98 TJ
> >'98 XJ
>
> Took a long ccruise with it yesterday. Ran just fine. Got home and
> it started bucking severely as I was slowing to a stop. Kind of like
> you didn't let the clutch out coming to a stop. It died, but I was
> able to start it again. A few miles down the road, it bucked again
> when taking off from a stop (this time, like letting the clutch out
> too quickly when taking off). I got home with it ok, tho. Today, it
> turns over but won't fire at all. What now?
>
> Mark