Re: 96 Grand Cherokee Stalling
dougguitar wrote:
> DougW, question: You said if the distributor rotor moves from side to > side, it's shot. By side-to-side, I assume you mean motion from the > center of the rotor towards the outer diameter of the distributor > (i.e., along the length of the rotor). Mine has maybe a little over a > 1/16" of play in that direction. Is that a concern? Could that cause > my symptoms? Yep, radial movement. ( o ) <-|-> There is another movement, axial. where you hold the rotor down and slowly rotate it clockwise/counterclockwise. It shouldn't move up and down. Make sure your grabbing the metal shaft and not the plastic rotor. 1/16 is quite a bit. That definitly could be causing your problems as it has a great effect on timing. Is there a lot of oil in the bottom of the distributor? It might also explain the problem when hot because the bushing is worn and oil will work its way up in there and cause arcing. The inside of a distributor should be bone dry. might want to read here. http://revbeergoggles.com/distributor/ I wasn't having stalling but the motor did feel like it wanted to jump out of the mounts at certain RPMs. Replacing the distributor didn't fix all the problems but it did run a lot better. Hate to say "throw more parts at it" but sometimes that's the only way. There is no real diagnostics for the spark side under load unless the shop has a rolling road. I'm still in the process of throwing parts at my 93. :) But then again if I wanted it to run like new I'd be buying new. -- DougW Jeep mechanics is like a murder mystery where someone kills your wallet. |
Re: 96 Grand Cherokee Stalling
dougguitar wrote:
> DougW, question: You said if the distributor rotor moves from side to > side, it's shot. By side-to-side, I assume you mean motion from the > center of the rotor towards the outer diameter of the distributor > (i.e., along the length of the rotor). Mine has maybe a little over a > 1/16" of play in that direction. Is that a concern? Could that cause > my symptoms? Yep, radial movement. ( o ) <-|-> There is another movement, axial. where you hold the rotor down and slowly rotate it clockwise/counterclockwise. It shouldn't move up and down. Make sure your grabbing the metal shaft and not the plastic rotor. 1/16 is quite a bit. That definitly could be causing your problems as it has a great effect on timing. Is there a lot of oil in the bottom of the distributor? It might also explain the problem when hot because the bushing is worn and oil will work its way up in there and cause arcing. The inside of a distributor should be bone dry. might want to read here. http://revbeergoggles.com/distributor/ I wasn't having stalling but the motor did feel like it wanted to jump out of the mounts at certain RPMs. Replacing the distributor didn't fix all the problems but it did run a lot better. Hate to say "throw more parts at it" but sometimes that's the only way. There is no real diagnostics for the spark side under load unless the shop has a rolling road. I'm still in the process of throwing parts at my 93. :) But then again if I wanted it to run like new I'd be buying new. -- DougW Jeep mechanics is like a murder mystery where someone kills your wallet. |
Re: 96 Grand Cherokee Stalling
dougguitar wrote:
> DougW, question: You said if the distributor rotor moves from side to > side, it's shot. By side-to-side, I assume you mean motion from the > center of the rotor towards the outer diameter of the distributor > (i.e., along the length of the rotor). Mine has maybe a little over a > 1/16" of play in that direction. Is that a concern? Could that cause > my symptoms? Yep, radial movement. ( o ) <-|-> There is another movement, axial. where you hold the rotor down and slowly rotate it clockwise/counterclockwise. It shouldn't move up and down. Make sure your grabbing the metal shaft and not the plastic rotor. 1/16 is quite a bit. That definitly could be causing your problems as it has a great effect on timing. Is there a lot of oil in the bottom of the distributor? It might also explain the problem when hot because the bushing is worn and oil will work its way up in there and cause arcing. The inside of a distributor should be bone dry. might want to read here. http://revbeergoggles.com/distributor/ I wasn't having stalling but the motor did feel like it wanted to jump out of the mounts at certain RPMs. Replacing the distributor didn't fix all the problems but it did run a lot better. Hate to say "throw more parts at it" but sometimes that's the only way. There is no real diagnostics for the spark side under load unless the shop has a rolling road. I'm still in the process of throwing parts at my 93. :) But then again if I wanted it to run like new I'd be buying new. -- DougW Jeep mechanics is like a murder mystery where someone kills your wallet. |
Re: 96 Grand Cherokee Stalling
dougguitar@yahoo.com wrote:
> I'm almost at the point of throwing in the towel and taking it to a > shop for diagnosis, but I hate to start paying someone else to guess at > the problem. More times than not, decent mechanics will have seen the problem before and have a pretty good idea what is causing it. Often, if they do pin it down to couple of things, they will change something out and if the problem is something else, they will reinstall the original part and not charge you for it. Many use databases that collect information from others with the same problem, and look up the solutions in those cases for clues to your mystery. I don't have a problem paying someone to research this stuff: there's no point in reinventing the wheel. If it makes you feel any better, think of all the money you've saved on DIY maintainance and such already; at some point, you have to give a little back when a real head-scratcher comes along. Better: think of how NICE it will be when the big-guys solve the problem and it runs like it should for a change! |
Re: 96 Grand Cherokee Stalling
dougguitar@yahoo.com wrote:
> I'm almost at the point of throwing in the towel and taking it to a > shop for diagnosis, but I hate to start paying someone else to guess at > the problem. More times than not, decent mechanics will have seen the problem before and have a pretty good idea what is causing it. Often, if they do pin it down to couple of things, they will change something out and if the problem is something else, they will reinstall the original part and not charge you for it. Many use databases that collect information from others with the same problem, and look up the solutions in those cases for clues to your mystery. I don't have a problem paying someone to research this stuff: there's no point in reinventing the wheel. If it makes you feel any better, think of all the money you've saved on DIY maintainance and such already; at some point, you have to give a little back when a real head-scratcher comes along. Better: think of how NICE it will be when the big-guys solve the problem and it runs like it should for a change! |
Re: 96 Grand Cherokee Stalling
dougguitar@yahoo.com wrote:
> I'm almost at the point of throwing in the towel and taking it to a > shop for diagnosis, but I hate to start paying someone else to guess at > the problem. More times than not, decent mechanics will have seen the problem before and have a pretty good idea what is causing it. Often, if they do pin it down to couple of things, they will change something out and if the problem is something else, they will reinstall the original part and not charge you for it. Many use databases that collect information from others with the same problem, and look up the solutions in those cases for clues to your mystery. I don't have a problem paying someone to research this stuff: there's no point in reinventing the wheel. If it makes you feel any better, think of all the money you've saved on DIY maintainance and such already; at some point, you have to give a little back when a real head-scratcher comes along. Better: think of how NICE it will be when the big-guys solve the problem and it runs like it should for a change! |
Re: 96 Grand Cherokee Stalling
Well, I thought I had the problem nailed. Last night, I started it up
and decided to try the wire wiggling that someone had suggested. I wiggled the wire leading to the coil, the plug wires, the sensors on or around the distributor. Nothing happened. Then I said "Hmm, what's this big ol' wiring harness back here?" I jiggled it around. *stumble cough sputter* The engine started to hiccup! I pushed on it again, and the engine stalled. Aha! I've found it. It turned out to be one of three wire harnesses that hook directly to the ECM. So I took out the coolant bottle and removed the little plastic cover over the ECM connectors. The ECM itself is held to the firewall by three screws. One of mine was (and currently still is) totally missing. A second one was just kind of hanging in there not really holding it securely. When I pushed on any of the three wire harnesses, though, the engine would sputter and even die if I kept pushing on it. I could jiggle them around some more and then I'd be able to restart the engine. So I removed the three connectors, and sprayed everything down with my handy dandy contact cleaner, replaced the connectors, and securely tightened my two remaining bolts to hold the ECM on the firewall. I started it up, and jiggled the wires, but now the engine just kept purring away. Sweet!!! I put everything back in place, did some more jiggling of the wire harnesses, but the engine kept running fine. Took her for a test drive of about five miles, and everything was great. I took the kids to school in it this morning, then headed on in to work (about 20 miles). Ran great, no problems. Leaving work this evening, though, less than a mile down the road, bam, it stalled out again! Talk about the agony and the ecstasy! I got out (in the rain of course) and jiggled my wires around. It didn't want to restart. Kept pushing the wires in various ways, and trying to restart, and finally got it going. I went 40 feet and stalled again. Repeat the push-jiggle-start routine a few times and it finally started up. I was then able to drive it the rest of the way home without incident. So now what? I guess something else is either loose, shorted or otherwise electrically hosed. I guess I'll continue to try to push and jiggle more wires to try to get it to stall and locate the problem. Should I look into replacing the wire harnesses? That looks like a nightmare as a DIY job. I couldn't even find any online sources of places to buy wire harnesses. It's probably some little short or something somewhere, but how to find it? Could it be that the ECM itself is hosed? This GC certainly has its share of weird little electrical issues. For example, you know how the instrument lights and odometer and all will dim slightly when you turn on the headlights? Well, for as long as I've owned it (8 years) that dimming effect will sometimes happen despite the headlights not being on. About 5 or 6 months ago, the little trip computer in the overhead console just stopped responding to either the Step or US/M buttons. It's perpetually stuck on the Distance To Empty reading, which works, but I can't change it to show temperature, trip miles or anything else. Such fun. Doug B. |
Re: 96 Grand Cherokee Stalling
Well, I thought I had the problem nailed. Last night, I started it up
and decided to try the wire wiggling that someone had suggested. I wiggled the wire leading to the coil, the plug wires, the sensors on or around the distributor. Nothing happened. Then I said "Hmm, what's this big ol' wiring harness back here?" I jiggled it around. *stumble cough sputter* The engine started to hiccup! I pushed on it again, and the engine stalled. Aha! I've found it. It turned out to be one of three wire harnesses that hook directly to the ECM. So I took out the coolant bottle and removed the little plastic cover over the ECM connectors. The ECM itself is held to the firewall by three screws. One of mine was (and currently still is) totally missing. A second one was just kind of hanging in there not really holding it securely. When I pushed on any of the three wire harnesses, though, the engine would sputter and even die if I kept pushing on it. I could jiggle them around some more and then I'd be able to restart the engine. So I removed the three connectors, and sprayed everything down with my handy dandy contact cleaner, replaced the connectors, and securely tightened my two remaining bolts to hold the ECM on the firewall. I started it up, and jiggled the wires, but now the engine just kept purring away. Sweet!!! I put everything back in place, did some more jiggling of the wire harnesses, but the engine kept running fine. Took her for a test drive of about five miles, and everything was great. I took the kids to school in it this morning, then headed on in to work (about 20 miles). Ran great, no problems. Leaving work this evening, though, less than a mile down the road, bam, it stalled out again! Talk about the agony and the ecstasy! I got out (in the rain of course) and jiggled my wires around. It didn't want to restart. Kept pushing the wires in various ways, and trying to restart, and finally got it going. I went 40 feet and stalled again. Repeat the push-jiggle-start routine a few times and it finally started up. I was then able to drive it the rest of the way home without incident. So now what? I guess something else is either loose, shorted or otherwise electrically hosed. I guess I'll continue to try to push and jiggle more wires to try to get it to stall and locate the problem. Should I look into replacing the wire harnesses? That looks like a nightmare as a DIY job. I couldn't even find any online sources of places to buy wire harnesses. It's probably some little short or something somewhere, but how to find it? Could it be that the ECM itself is hosed? This GC certainly has its share of weird little electrical issues. For example, you know how the instrument lights and odometer and all will dim slightly when you turn on the headlights? Well, for as long as I've owned it (8 years) that dimming effect will sometimes happen despite the headlights not being on. About 5 or 6 months ago, the little trip computer in the overhead console just stopped responding to either the Step or US/M buttons. It's perpetually stuck on the Distance To Empty reading, which works, but I can't change it to show temperature, trip miles or anything else. Such fun. Doug B. |
Re: 96 Grand Cherokee Stalling
Well, I thought I had the problem nailed. Last night, I started it up
and decided to try the wire wiggling that someone had suggested. I wiggled the wire leading to the coil, the plug wires, the sensors on or around the distributor. Nothing happened. Then I said "Hmm, what's this big ol' wiring harness back here?" I jiggled it around. *stumble cough sputter* The engine started to hiccup! I pushed on it again, and the engine stalled. Aha! I've found it. It turned out to be one of three wire harnesses that hook directly to the ECM. So I took out the coolant bottle and removed the little plastic cover over the ECM connectors. The ECM itself is held to the firewall by three screws. One of mine was (and currently still is) totally missing. A second one was just kind of hanging in there not really holding it securely. When I pushed on any of the three wire harnesses, though, the engine would sputter and even die if I kept pushing on it. I could jiggle them around some more and then I'd be able to restart the engine. So I removed the three connectors, and sprayed everything down with my handy dandy contact cleaner, replaced the connectors, and securely tightened my two remaining bolts to hold the ECM on the firewall. I started it up, and jiggled the wires, but now the engine just kept purring away. Sweet!!! I put everything back in place, did some more jiggling of the wire harnesses, but the engine kept running fine. Took her for a test drive of about five miles, and everything was great. I took the kids to school in it this morning, then headed on in to work (about 20 miles). Ran great, no problems. Leaving work this evening, though, less than a mile down the road, bam, it stalled out again! Talk about the agony and the ecstasy! I got out (in the rain of course) and jiggled my wires around. It didn't want to restart. Kept pushing the wires in various ways, and trying to restart, and finally got it going. I went 40 feet and stalled again. Repeat the push-jiggle-start routine a few times and it finally started up. I was then able to drive it the rest of the way home without incident. So now what? I guess something else is either loose, shorted or otherwise electrically hosed. I guess I'll continue to try to push and jiggle more wires to try to get it to stall and locate the problem. Should I look into replacing the wire harnesses? That looks like a nightmare as a DIY job. I couldn't even find any online sources of places to buy wire harnesses. It's probably some little short or something somewhere, but how to find it? Could it be that the ECM itself is hosed? This GC certainly has its share of weird little electrical issues. For example, you know how the instrument lights and odometer and all will dim slightly when you turn on the headlights? Well, for as long as I've owned it (8 years) that dimming effect will sometimes happen despite the headlights not being on. About 5 or 6 months ago, the little trip computer in the overhead console just stopped responding to either the Step or US/M buttons. It's perpetually stuck on the Distance To Empty reading, which works, but I can't change it to show temperature, trip miles or anything else. Such fun. Doug B. |
Re: 96 Grand Cherokee Stalling
dougguitar wrote:
soooo close. At lest you have a better idea of what is wrong. Might try wiggling again, but this time hold the harness still and wiggle the wires that come out of it one at a time. Inside that massive thing are several ground spices that can corrode. I've had mine apart once already and it's a real pain in the ass even with the wiring book. > Should I look into replacing the wire harnesses? That looks like a > nightmare as a DIY job. I couldn't even find any online sources of > places to buy wire harnesses. It's probably some little short or > something somewhere, but how to find it? Could it be that the ECM > itself is hosed? Dealership is the only place for that harness. :( You need the service manual and the wiring diagrams for your Jeep. Then with a ohm meter and ..several days.. you can go through each wire and check. Get some replacement wrap and tape because the stuff that's there tends to break due to age. -- DougW |
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