DougW

DougW did pass the time by typing:

> Hmm.. and the ABS lamp is still lit? That's odd. Try cleaning the ABS
> sensor connector,

I ment to say ABS computer connector. But cleaning the sensor connectors
is good maintenance anyway.

> it might not be a critical fault. But it should be
> storing something. It doesn't light the light without trowing a fault
> of some sort. Usually when my connector gets full of road grime it causes
> the lamp to light as the jeep goes over railroad tracks or bumps. That
> throws all sorts of faults. Use some plastic safe contact/electronics cleaner
> and dilectric grease. Don't forget to clean the backshell on the connector
> that's where the grime gets trapped.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...ml#abscomputer

Jeff Strickland

When you start the car, the ABS light comes on during a self test period,
then should go out. Does it go out or does it stay on.

If it goes out, does it come on when the vehicle begins moving - I am not
sure what the speed threshold is, but my BMW turns the light on at a walking
speed - or does it come on as a result of applying the brakes?

Does it come on at random times that you can not peg to any event at all?

According to the links that Bill provided, it seems that your trouble is the
front wheel speed sensors.

You said that your brakes work properly and the pedal pulses, but this
shouldn't be possible if the ABS light is on because the ABS light being on
specifically means that this will not happen. If the light comes on during
the self test, then remains on, I'd be looking to the instrument cluster,
not any of the sensors. The self test is a time that the system looks at the
circuitry - including the speed sensors - and if the test is successful, the
light turns off. The system then constantly monitors itself, and when a
falut is detected, the ABS light will come on. (My experience is that the
ABS light will remain on until the next time the car is stopped then started
again, I have never seen an ABS light come on then go out before the
ignition is switched off.) If the light remains on after the self test is
complete, and before you begin moving, then I would be looking to the
instrument cluster as having an error. If the brake system was keeping the
light on, there would be a fault code, if the instrument cluster was having
a problem, there would not be a code generated and the light would not go
out after the self test is completed.





"nunya" <pereynoldsdfw@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ZsednYmI_okbKeffRVn-1g@comcast.com...
> resposes to various solutions.
>
> the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS
> sensors are still attached.
>
> a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working.
> (no pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)
>
> our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.
>
> I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump
> noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start.
> this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or
> overnight.
>
> oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.
>
> the windows are tinted too.
>
>

Green and tinted windows? That's the problem ...

Jeff Strickland

When you start the car, the ABS light comes on during a self test period,
then should go out. Does it go out or does it stay on.

If it goes out, does it come on when the vehicle begins moving - I am not
sure what the speed threshold is, but my BMW turns the light on at a walking
speed - or does it come on as a result of applying the brakes?

Does it come on at random times that you can not peg to any event at all?

According to the links that Bill provided, it seems that your trouble is the
front wheel speed sensors.

You said that your brakes work properly and the pedal pulses, but this
shouldn't be possible if the ABS light is on because the ABS light being on
specifically means that this will not happen. If the light comes on during
the self test, then remains on, I'd be looking to the instrument cluster,
not any of the sensors. The self test is a time that the system looks at the
circuitry - including the speed sensors - and if the test is successful, the
light turns off. The system then constantly monitors itself, and when a
falut is detected, the ABS light will come on. (My experience is that the
ABS light will remain on until the next time the car is stopped then started
again, I have never seen an ABS light come on then go out before the
ignition is switched off.) If the light remains on after the self test is
complete, and before you begin moving, then I would be looking to the
instrument cluster as having an error. If the brake system was keeping the
light on, there would be a fault code, if the instrument cluster was having
a problem, there would not be a code generated and the light would not go
out after the self test is completed.





"nunya" <pereynoldsdfw@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ZsednYmI_okbKeffRVn-1g@comcast.com...
> resposes to various solutions.
>
> the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS
> sensors are still attached.
>
> a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working.
> (no pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)
>
> our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.
>
> I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump
> noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start.
> this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or
> overnight.
>
> oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.
>
> the windows are tinted too.
>
>

Green and tinted windows? That's the problem ...

Jeff Strickland

When you start the car, the ABS light comes on during a self test period,
then should go out. Does it go out or does it stay on.

If it goes out, does it come on when the vehicle begins moving - I am not
sure what the speed threshold is, but my BMW turns the light on at a walking
speed - or does it come on as a result of applying the brakes?

Does it come on at random times that you can not peg to any event at all?

According to the links that Bill provided, it seems that your trouble is the
front wheel speed sensors.

You said that your brakes work properly and the pedal pulses, but this
shouldn't be possible if the ABS light is on because the ABS light being on
specifically means that this will not happen. If the light comes on during
the self test, then remains on, I'd be looking to the instrument cluster,
not any of the sensors. The self test is a time that the system looks at the
circuitry - including the speed sensors - and if the test is successful, the
light turns off. The system then constantly monitors itself, and when a
falut is detected, the ABS light will come on. (My experience is that the
ABS light will remain on until the next time the car is stopped then started
again, I have never seen an ABS light come on then go out before the
ignition is switched off.) If the light remains on after the self test is
complete, and before you begin moving, then I would be looking to the
instrument cluster as having an error. If the brake system was keeping the
light on, there would be a fault code, if the instrument cluster was having
a problem, there would not be a code generated and the light would not go
out after the self test is completed.





"nunya" <pereynoldsdfw@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ZsednYmI_okbKeffRVn-1g@comcast.com...
> resposes to various solutions.
>
> the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS
> sensors are still attached.
>
> a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working.
> (no pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)
>
> our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.
>
> I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump
> noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start.
> this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or
> overnight.
>
> oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.
>
> the windows are tinted too.
>
>

Green and tinted windows? That's the problem ...

Jeff Strickland

When you start the car, the ABS light comes on during a self test period,
then should go out. Does it go out or does it stay on.

If it goes out, does it come on when the vehicle begins moving - I am not
sure what the speed threshold is, but my BMW turns the light on at a walking
speed - or does it come on as a result of applying the brakes?

Does it come on at random times that you can not peg to any event at all?

According to the links that Bill provided, it seems that your trouble is the
front wheel speed sensors.

You said that your brakes work properly and the pedal pulses, but this
shouldn't be possible if the ABS light is on because the ABS light being on
specifically means that this will not happen. If the light comes on during
the self test, then remains on, I'd be looking to the instrument cluster,
not any of the sensors. The self test is a time that the system looks at the
circuitry - including the speed sensors - and if the test is successful, the
light turns off. The system then constantly monitors itself, and when a
falut is detected, the ABS light will come on. (My experience is that the
ABS light will remain on until the next time the car is stopped then started
again, I have never seen an ABS light come on then go out before the
ignition is switched off.) If the light remains on after the self test is
complete, and before you begin moving, then I would be looking to the
instrument cluster as having an error. If the brake system was keeping the
light on, there would be a fault code, if the instrument cluster was having
a problem, there would not be a code generated and the light would not go
out after the self test is completed.





"nunya" <pereynoldsdfw@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ZsednYmI_okbKeffRVn-1g@comcast.com...
> resposes to various solutions.
>
> the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS
> sensors are still attached.
>
> a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working.
> (no pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)
>
> our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.
>
> I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump
> noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start.
> this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or
> overnight.
>
> oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.
>
> the windows are tinted too.
>
>

Green and tinted windows? That's the problem ...

rufus t

"nunya" <pereynoldsdfw@comcast.net> wrote in
news:hMSdnan9AZDY3effRVn-2A@comcast.com:

> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
>
> this has been the best purchase of my life (save for the mail-order
> bride) but I've got a couple of
> "dumb guy" questions.
>
> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
> just the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50
> start cycles, but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger
> rick secret de-coder ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice
> again?
>
> 2) a "starting" problem.
> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10
> seconds, then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
> drive. It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
>
> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
> every 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
>
> "A car is like a woman. If you give them what they need before they
> know they need it, they won't leave you by the side of the road"
>
> thanks.
>
>

I haven't seen it mentioned in the threads anywhere, but have you tried
disconnecting the battery to reset the indicator?

Mike S
98JGCI6-Clyde

rufus t

"nunya" <pereynoldsdfw@comcast.net> wrote in
news:hMSdnan9AZDY3effRVn-2A@comcast.com:

> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
>
> this has been the best purchase of my life (save for the mail-order
> bride) but I've got a couple of
> "dumb guy" questions.
>
> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
> just the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50
> start cycles, but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger
> rick secret de-coder ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice
> again?
>
> 2) a "starting" problem.
> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10
> seconds, then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
> drive. It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
>
> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
> every 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
>
> "A car is like a woman. If you give them what they need before they
> know they need it, they won't leave you by the side of the road"
>
> thanks.
>
>

I haven't seen it mentioned in the threads anywhere, but have you tried
disconnecting the battery to reset the indicator?

Mike S
98JGCI6-Clyde

rufus t

"nunya" <pereynoldsdfw@comcast.net> wrote in
news:hMSdnan9AZDY3effRVn-2A@comcast.com:

> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
>
> this has been the best purchase of my life (save for the mail-order
> bride) but I've got a couple of
> "dumb guy" questions.
>
> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
> just the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50
> start cycles, but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger
> rick secret de-coder ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice
> again?
>
> 2) a "starting" problem.
> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10
> seconds, then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
> drive. It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
>
> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
> every 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
>
> "A car is like a woman. If you give them what they need before they
> know they need it, they won't leave you by the side of the road"
>
> thanks.
>
>

I haven't seen it mentioned in the threads anywhere, but have you tried
disconnecting the battery to reset the indicator?

Mike S
98JGCI6-Clyde

rufus t

"nunya" <pereynoldsdfw@comcast.net> wrote in
news:hMSdnan9AZDY3effRVn-2A@comcast.com:

> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
>
> this has been the best purchase of my life (save for the mail-order
> bride) but I've got a couple of
> "dumb guy" questions.
>
> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
> just the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50
> start cycles, but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger
> rick secret de-coder ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice
> again?
>
> 2) a "starting" problem.
> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10
> seconds, then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
> drive. It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
>
> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
> every 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
>
> "A car is like a woman. If you give them what they need before they
> know they need it, they won't leave you by the side of the road"
>
> thanks.
>
>

I haven't seen it mentioned in the threads anywhere, but have you tried
disconnecting the battery to reset the indicator?

Mike S
98JGCI6-Clyde

Jeff Strickland

"rufus t" <r_firefly@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:acBee.1619$X21.205@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com ...
> "nunya" <pereynoldsdfw@comcast.net> wrote in
> news:hMSdnan9AZDY3effRVn-2A@comcast.com:
>
> > in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
> >
> > this has been the best purchase of my life (save for the mail-order
> > bride) but I've got a couple of
> > "dumb guy" questions.
> >
> > 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> > that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
> > just the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50
> > start cycles, but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger
> > rick secret de-coder ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice
> > again?
> >
> > 2) a "starting" problem.
> > when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10
> > seconds, then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> > This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
> > drive. It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
> >
> > as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
> > every 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
> >
> > "A car is like a woman. If you give them what they need before they
> > know they need it, they won't leave you by the side of the road"
> >
> > thanks.
> >
> >
>
> I haven't seen it mentioned in the threads anywhere, but have you tried
> disconnecting the battery to reset the indicator?
>


Any ABS fault is supposed to reset everytime the vehicle is started, then
return if it is still present AND the vehicle is moving. ABS doesn't care
that it doesn't work IF the vehicle is stopped - the trip hasn't yet begun.
ABS only cares that it doesn't work if the trip has been started, then it
doesn't care if the vehicle is moving or stopped, the ABS fault display
remains.

If the ABS fault report is due to an actual fault, there should be a code
stored.